The number of cuts or teeth to the inch may be about ten. There must be

sufficient depth between the teeth to receive the cuttings, and they must

be made strong enough to withstand the hammer blows. In driving use oil

on the teeth, and be careful to keep it upright, so as to form a hole

that will enable the gun-hammer to stand properly on the tumbler.

If it be feared that there will be a variation of the hole from the

“square,” turn the drift a quarter turn after the first driving and drive

again; then turn another quarter and drive the third time, and so on of

the fourth.

The drift may be made of almost any shape, and will produce holes of

irregular form as readily as square ones. Another example is the mortice

in the loop attached under gun-barrels, through which the bolt passes,

and also the same size mortice or slot in escutcheons, which are let into

the stock, through which the same bolt passes. The holes in small solid

wrenches to receive square or six-sided nuts can be readily and easily

made in the same manner.

_A Tool for Fitting Hammers to Gun Locks._—The usual practice in fitting

hammers to gun locks is to measure with the dividers the distance from

the centre of the tumbler, where it projects beyond the lock-plate, to

the centre of the tube or cone, and so get the length of the hammer; then

drill the hole in the hammer, square this hole by the rule of “guess,”

and file until it fits upon the square of the tumbler.

[Illustration: FIGURE 49.]

A simple tool can be made by any gunsmith, that will greatly facilitate

his operations in fitting hammers. The accompanying cut (Fig. 49) shows

this tool in full size. It is made of iron or steel, one-eighth of an

inch thick. The body, A, of the tool is one-half inch wide, and has

a slot, _a_, three-sixteenths of an inch wide and one inch long. The

curved slot, _b_, is the same width, and embraces about one-fourth of a

circle. The nose-piece, B, is shaped like the top portion of a hammer,

and is held to the body, A, by a screw, _c_, and to insure its moving

in a line, and being held properly in the slot, _a_, there is a small

stud, _d_, that fills the slot. In the lower curved portion of the body,

which is seven-eighths of an inch in diameter, there is a five-eighths

hole, which receives the round portion of the piece, C. This piece has

an extension, as shown by the dotted lines, and is held to A by a screw,

_e_. The square hole in this piece is intended to fit the square of the

tumbler of the lock. The thickness of C, at the round part where it

enters A, is the thickness of both A and B. There is a shoulder of the

thickness of B, and of the size of the body of the tool at the lower end,

being of the same diameter, so that the back surfaces of B and C are of

the same thickness. The front surface of C is flush with A.

To use the tool, put the square of the lock tumbler in the square hole

of C, and put the tumbler screw in place. Loosen the screw, _e_, and

turn the piece, C, until the nose of B will rest pretty firmly on the

gun-tube; then turn the screw to hold it in place. Loosen the screw, _c_,

that holds B in place, and move this piece up or down until the centre of

the nose rests squarely on the tube; then confine it in place by turning

up the screw, _c_. This is now an exact pattern, giving the length, shape

of the hammer, and also a guide to form the square where it fits the

tumbler.

It must be observed that the screws and the stud, _d_, ought to fill the

slots on the shoulder of the piece, C, a good fit, so that it will turn

evenly and properly in the hole of A. The screws may be the same that are

used for tumbler screws for army muskets. These screws are hardened, and,

as they have large flat heads, they answer for this purpose very well.

The part, C, can be made of two pieces of the same thickness as the other

parts. Finish them separately, except the square hole, and then solder

or rivet them together. The square hole is best finished up when the two

parts are fastened together.

CHAPTER XXIV.

ON NIPPLES OR CONES.

The terms nipple, cone and tube are applied in rather an indiscriminate

manner to that portion of a gun breech on which the copper cap containing

the fulminate designed for firing the arm is placed. To be good and

serviceable, the nipple should be made of steel, and carefully tempered;

but many are made of a low grade of steel, of common iron, and even

malleable iron has been used, and case-hardened to render them fit for

use.

[Illustration: FIGURE 50.]

[Illustration: FIGURE 51.]

[Illustration: FIGURE 52.]

_Forms of Nipples._—There are as many forms of nipples as there are

qualities, and they may be divided into classes, as the musket nipple

(called “cone” by the armory operatives), the American, English, and

German. The German have coarser threads than the American. The English

musket nipple has a thread or screw of 18 threads per inch; it has a flat

top, and has a hole of one taper, being large at the bottom and smaller

at the top. The American musket tube has a screw of 24 threads to the

inch, has a vent resembling two inverted cones, meeting with a small

opening near the centre. The top of the nipple, consequently, resembles a

narrow circular ring. Fig. 50 shows the English nipple, and Fig. 51 the

American; Fig. 52 the different forms of vents.

_Nipples for Breech-loading Arms._—For breech-loading arms, using loose

powder and ball, the nipple is made similar to the American, but the vent

is made quite large at the top, and decreases like an inverted cone, and

terminates in a small opening a little larger than a common pin. In this

nipple the fire from the cap is concentrated and caused to rush with some

force through the small aperture, the same as heat is concentrated in a

single point by using a blow-pipe for that purpose. The object is to burn

through the material of which the cartridge is composed.

_Nipples with Flat Tops._—The use of a nipple with a broad, flat top

requires a vigorous mainspring, and then quite a volume of the detonating

flame escapes outside the nipple and between it and the cap. The small

portion that passes down the tube may be so impeded, if the nipple be

foul or rusty, as to cause the gun to hang fire, and even to miss fire.

Should the mainspring be too weak, the cap will come in contact with the

broad surface of the nipple, forcing the priming of the cap from its

position, and leaving it unexploded. Often the cap is made to bear the

blame, when the fault is due entirely to the formation of the top of the

nipple.

_The American Musket Nipple._—The American musket nipple has a thin edge

and a wide opening at the top, so as to allow the flame to readily enter,

the thin edge enabling the cap to be very readily exploded, even with the

blow from a weak mainspring. In this form of nipple the detonating powder

is ignited at the edge, and being forced to enter the wide opening, is

compelled to pass down the vent to the powder. If there be any little

dirt or obstruction, it is generally forced along with the fire, and the

ignition of the powder is certain, and miss-fires are few.

When nipples are made with the small opening of the vent at the bottom,

coarse-grain gunpowder can be used, as it is not necessary that the

grains need to be admitted to the nipple. This is the case as regards

military arms fitted with nipples. The powder is too coarse to be

received in the nipple when freed from the cartridge and placed uncovered

in the gun breech.

It has been claimed by some that gunpowder can be glazed too smooth to

readily take fire, and this is a source of miss-fires. Also that the

flame from the detonating powder will form a mass of condensed air around

itself, preventing contact with the powder until the heat is expended.

This was especially thought to be the fact when there was a volume of

air between the powder and the end of the nipple. These two theories are

presented for what they may be worth.

_Nipples used in Sporting Guns._—Of nipples used in sporting guns there

may be found the broad top, the countersunk top, the taper bored, the

countersunk taper, the reverse taper, double reversed, etc., etc. They

are generally put up with the screw portion made in assorted sizes. The

threads also vary, being as coarse as 26 to the inch, and as fine as 32

threads per inch.

_Preparing Nipples for Guns._—It is well for the gunsmith to test the

nipples with a fine file to ascertain their hardness before inserting

them in guns. If too soft, they will be returned on his hands. If

there is also a liability of the gun-hammer battering the top where it

strikes, which soon is so broad as to cause miss-fires. If too hard,

they are liable to break short off at the square, and the screw portion

left in the gun is difficult to remove. Sometimes so much so that it is

necessary to unbreech the gun, remove the patent breech and heat it to

soften the portion of broken nipple so that it can be drilled out. In

drilling there is a risk of injury to the thread of the nipple seat. The

heating necessitates labor to refinish the part and it is to be again

case hardened before screwing into the barrel. If found too hard, nipples

can be drawn to a better temper by holding the top portion in a pair of

pliers in exposing the bottom part to the flame of an alcohol lamp. If

they be too soft, enclose in a short piece of gas pipe, pack them well

with bone-dust, stop close the ends of the pipe, and heat to a red,

letting them remain so for fifteen or twenty minutes and then open the

end of the pipe to let the contents fall into water. They can be drawn

to temper to suit. They may also be heated hot, rolled in prussiate of

potash or cyanide of potassium, again heated, and thrown into water. As

cyanide of potassium is a deadly poison, be very careful how it is used

and where it is kept. Do not breathe the flames when put on hot iron, and

do not let it come in contact with sores or raw places on the hands.

_Remedy for Bad Nipples._—In case guns come in to be repaired because

they will “not snap a cap,” see if a weak mainspring be not one cause,

and a nipple with broad top, another. For the latter evil, ream or

counter sink it so as to have a thin cup like edge. See also if the cup

of the hammer strikes properly on the nipple, and that it be not too much

cupped by long usage in striking. In this case, the cup may be filled

by drilling in and inserting a bit of iron or steel to fill it and then

re-harden.

_Pistol Nipples._—Pistol nipples, Colt’s for instance, have a different

thread from gun nipples. The thread used in Colt’s revolver nipples is 40

to the inch. But one size is employed—nipples are sometimes provided with

a thin, round washer of copper, which is put on at the shoulder where the

thread terminates. This shields that part of the seat where it is placed

from rust, and some claim that it acts as a sort of cushion to deaden the

blow of the hammer, thus preserving the nipple from breakage.

_Plugs for Nipples._—Plugs can be made from a rod of iron of suitable

size that is sound and free from flaws. The size of the part that screws

into the barrel is about three-eighths of an inch, and the thread is

twenty to the inch. This is the size and thread generally used. There may

be exceptions that will require a different size and a different thread,

but, if possible, let the sizes given govern the work. The end on which

the screw is to be cut can be turned in the lathe, cut down with a hollow

mill in the method given for making breech pins, or it can even be filed

to shape in absence of any other way to make it. Before cutting the plug

to the length where the nipple is to be seated, screw it into the barrel,

mark the place for the nipple which can be found by letting down the

hammer of the lock, then remove drill and fit the nipple. Cut off all

that is not required beyond the nipple and screw into place, the nipple

forming a shoulder on which to rest the wrench in screwing it home. The

finished plug is shown in Fig. 53.

[Illustration: FIGURE 53.]

It is best to remove the barrel from the stock in screwing in the plug.

With an improper wrench, it often happens that a nipple will be broken

off at the square if it be very hard, and then it is difficult to

remove. To obviate all danger of this, make a wrench with a handle at

each end, and in the middle have a hole that will fit the plug, and then

file an opening so that it will just fit over the nipple. It should

fit close to the nipple at the square, and be free so as not to have a

bearing at the end of the nipple where the cap is put on.

Plugs are sometimes left bright, but if blued it improves their

appearance and there is less tendency to rust. If desired to be very

durable, case-harden them. The better polish that can be made on them

will make a better blue or case-hardened surface.

Many of the cheap plugs in market are nothing but cast malleable iron.

The best material of which to make them is decarbonized steel, or what is

known as “soft steel.” It comes in smooth round rods and is homogeneous

and easy to work. Cold-rolled iron rod makes very good plugs. The

diameter may be half-inch or nine-sixteenths, the latter size being most

preferable. With a three-eighth size screw the half-inch rod gives a

one-sixteenth shoulder, which must fit tight to the barrel. If not fitted

tight, the gas from the powder when the gun is fired will soon cause a

leak which is difficult to remedy. In some localities the name plug is

discarded and the term “cylinder” adopted.

CHAPTER XXV.

MAINSPRINGS.

_Mainsprings._—Mainsprings are made for right and left side locks, and

are known as right and left. Very few gunsmiths make these springs, as

they are kept in stock and can be purchased of the dealers at any time.

Fig. 54 is called the forward or side-action hook spring; Fig. 55 the

forward or side-action swivel, and are used in bar locks.

Fig. 56 is the back-action mainspring, such as used in cheap made locks.

These springs are also made with sear spring combined. Fig. 57 is swivel

back-action with sear spring combined.

[Illustration: FIGURE 54.]

_Sear Springs._—Sear springs are made for right and left hand locks. The

side-action or bar-lock springs are shown in Fig. 58, and the back-action

lock springs in Fig. 59. In one kind of back-action lock there is used

a bent spring similar to the bar-lock spring which is shown in Fig. 60.

It will be observed that the lower branch of this spring is longer than

that which is used in the bar or side-action locks.

[Illustration: FIGURE 55.]

_How to Forge Mainsprings._—If the gunsmith desires to forge his own

mainsprings he must select a good quality of spring steel, as cast steel

is generally too quick or fiery for springs that have as severe a duty

to perform as a mainspring. Get the steel of the same thickness as the

mainspring and of a width equal to the spring and the pivot that goes

through the lock plate.

[Illustration: FIGURE 56.]

Draw the spring out carefully over a fire that has been burned enough to

free it from sulphur, if bituminous coal be used, and be very careful not

to over-heat the metal. Form to shape with any tools or means that may be

at hand.

For straight springs, as some kinds of pistol and gun-lock springs,

procure steel of the thickness and width of the spring at the widest and

thickest end, and draw down to the requisite width and thickness of the

smallest end.

[Illustration: FIGURE 57.]

_How to Temper Mainsprings._—If it be a single spring that is to be

tempered, heat it carefully or evenly in a fire that is well burned to

free it from sulphur, or preferably in a charcoal fire, and when at a

light-red heat, harden by plunging it in any animal oil. An iron pan may

be used to contain the oil, and any refuse or poor oil that may collect

may be used. Lard oil is good, but if oil be wanting, use common lard or

even tallow. If hard, melt before using.

[Illustration: FIGURE 58.]

To temper the spring, remove from the oil, and hold it all dripping with

the oil over a clear fire until the oil takes fire and blazes off. It is

best to dip it in the oil and blaze off the second time.

[Illustration: FIGURE 59.]

If there are a number of springs enclose them in a piece of gas pipe to

heat them, and when hot, turn them into the oil. To temper, remove them,

put them in an old wrought-iron frying pan, add a little oil, heat the

pan over the fire, shaking it in the meantime, until the oil takes fire

and blazes off. Let the work cool without putting it in water or oil.

[Illustration: FIGURE 60.]

_Cheap Mainsprings for Revolvers._—Make springs for cheap revolvers from

strips of sheet steel. Cut the springs so that the _length_ of the spring

will be _lengthwise_ of the sheet from which it is cut, or, in other

words, the _grain_ of the steel must _not_ be _across_ the spring, but

_lengthwise_ with it.

When fitted, harden in oil and blaze off in an old sheet-iron pan; an

old frying pan being very good for the purpose, and literally _fry_ them

in the oil. If heavy, blaze two or three times. Agitate well in the pan

during the blazing process.

An old saw blade, one that is quite thin, when cut up in strips will

make springs for cheap work. If too hard temper, it cannot very well

be used until the temper be drawn to suit. They can be bent into form

with a strong pair of pliers. By warming the strips over a fire they can

be readily bent into shape. Old table-knife blades, sometimes called

case-knife blades, that are well tempered, have been employed, the blades

being cut lengthwise with a pair of hand shears.

_Coiling Wire for Springs, &c._—There are several methods of coiling

wire for springs. The most simple is to clamp a rod in the vise and wind

the wire around it by hand, but this is a very unsatisfactory method and

it is rather difficult to wind the wire evenly. Another method is to

revolve a rod in the lathe and let the wire coil upon it as the lathe

is turned. To insure equal space between the coils, a piece of metal is

held “behind” the wire, and as this piece of metal bears against, or in

advance of the coil just made, it produces an even spring. A hook made of

a piece of wire or a piece of metal with one end formed into a hook and

clasping the rod on which the wire is moved is an excellent way to form

an even spring. Two, or even three or more pieces of wire may be wound at

one time, and this will insure springs of even space.

Another way in which a spring of even coil can be made, is to hold a

bolt that has a good thread, upright in the vise and confine the wire by

clamping it to the bolt, then wind the wire, letting it follow the thread

of the bolt. When enough is wound, remove and release the spring by

“screwing the bolt out of it,” the same as if holding a nut fast in the

hand and turning the bolt out of it. Springs of almost any coil, but not

of “almost any diameter,” can be made in this way.

[Illustration: FIGURE 61.]

In the absence of a lathe a wire winding tool may be made by bending a

rod into the form of a crank and insert the long end through a piece of

hard wood, as shown in Fig. 61. This can be held in the vise to use, or

fastened by two or three screws to the bench or any convenient place. A

slot is made in the end of the part that projects through the wood, and

in this slot the end of the wire is placed and is wound _toward_ the

crank. Of course the spring can be made no longer than this projecting

end. To make different sized springs different sized rods must be used,

and holes to fit must be made through the piece of wood.

To insure even space between the coils, a strip of thin steel may be

fastened by one or two screws at or near the bottom of the piece of wood,

and a hole is made near the top of the winding rod to pass through.

A space is cut out, as shown in the cut, to admit of the wire being

removed. In winding the upper end the steel strip is held away from the

wood by its spring, or by a wooden wedge, and the wire must be held close

to the wood by the hand or by a piece of wire formed as a sort of staple.

To wind a very long spring, or a spring longer than the rod, a clamp may

confine the wire to the rod, and when the spring has been wound to its

length, remove the clamp, draw back the winding rod, fix the clamp close

to the outer end and begin to wind again without cutting the coil, push

it off the end of the rod as it is filled each time. As all wire, like

hard drawn brass or steel wire, will “spring open” after being coiled,

the rod must be made much smaller than the spring to be formed. Different

sized holes may be made in the same block of wood to receive different

sized winding rods over.

Hooks or eyes on the ends of the rods can be readily made in like manner.

When the rod is too large to admit of ready bending to form the crank to

turn it with, a crank of cast-iron can be riveted upon it.

If the mechanic wishes to make a tool of this kind, that will be more

serviceable and at the same time “look like something,” he can procure

a casting similar to the movable head of a lathe, and put in the hole

where the spindle is placed a similar spindle, but with the end where

the wire is to be wound large enough to form a shoulder to keep it in

place, and on the other end put a wheel eight or ten inches in diameter,

with a handle to turn it with. The end where the shoulder is may be made

with a screw to fit the lathe chuck or with a hole to receive the lathe

tools, and they can be held there the same as holding them in the lathe

chuck. The spindles to wind the wire may be inserted in the hole and held

in place by the set-screw. The tool may be fastened to the bench by a rod

screwed into the base, or held by a nut under the bench.

This tool will be found to be a very ready one with which to work out

bullet moulds. The cherry being held the same as a rod. It can also be

used to free the muzzle or breech of barrels, using the wooden rods

covered with emery, as described in Chapter XVI. It is also useful for

reaming holes and can be used for drilling in case of an emergency. As a

tool for holding taps to tap the thread in holes it has no equal—the work

being held in the left hand and the wheel turned with the right hand.

CHAPTER XXVI.

ON RODS.

_How to Make Ramrods._—Ramrods are of two forms, the straight rod used

for rifles, and the tapered rod used for shot guns. The wood that is most

in use is hickory, which is split and then turned into shape. The other

woods used are ebony, redwood, snakewood, rosewood, etc. Rifle rods are

generally made of sizes from three-sixteenths inch to half-inch diameter.

Shot gun rods from one-half inch to three-quarters inch in diameter. The

measurement of the shot gun rods is at the largest diameter.

One way of making rods for rifles is very similar to that in which screws

are made. A hollow tool is used with cutting lips, three are enough, and

the rod is passed through this tool, the tool being turned very rapidly

during the cutting. The operation may be reversed and the wood being

rotated while the tool is held in the hand and is passed along as it cuts.

A better kind of tool is made like a wheel about two inches in diameter,

and three-quarters of an inch thick. A hole of the size of the rod is

made through the diametrical centre, and one side of the circumference

is cut away so that a tool partaking of the nature of the gouge and

finishing chisel is so held by a screw, that the gouge portion advances

and roughs out the rod, while the chisel shaped part following it shaves

the roughness and leaves the work smooth and nice. The hole through the

tool must be of the size the rod is to be made, and the cutting tool set

so as to allow the work to pass through the hole easily. Only one size

rod can be made with this tool, and different sizes must be made for

different sized rods; except the cutter which must be of steel, it can be

made of cast iron.

To make rods by hand, the wood is split out as straight as can be and

then rough shaved into form with a drawing knife. It is then planed

square with a carpenter’s plane and then the square corners are taken

off, leaving the rod of octagon form. A few strokes of the plane will

then remove these corners and it will be nearly round. A new file and

sand-paper will finish it true and even. After the rod has been planed

square, the best way to hold it for removing the corners and make it

octagon form is to have a V groove made in a piece of hard wood of

the length of the rod in which to lay it. Otherwise, it will be very

difficult to hold while using the plane.

Round straight rods can be finished with a tool like a moulding plane,

and if this tool be of the proper form, and the work be turned around

two or three times during the operation, a good rod can be made very

expeditiously.

When wood is cross-grained it cannot be planed very well and must be

finished with a file and rasp. To hold the rod while being worked, get

a piece of hard wood about three-quarters of an inch thick and about

four inches wide; in one edge have a groove made a quarter inch wide and

three-eighths deep. Rest the rod in this groove, holding it at one end

with a hand vise so as to turn it while filing, and reduce first with the

rasp and then finish with a file. To finish easily with sand-paper, wrap

the sand-paper around a piece of wood shaped like a file, and use as if

filing.

Pieces of broken window glass may also be used to advantage in reducing

rods, and then finish with fine sand-paper.

[Illustration: FIGURE 62.]

_How to make a Wiping Rod._—Take any straight rod, a ramrod for instance,

but be sure that the wood be strong and tough, and cut one end like the

form shown in Fig. 62. By folding a rag over the end, doubling it so as

to fill the bore of the gun, it will be found that it can be used in

muzzle-loading guns without pulling off when the rod is being withdrawn.

The rounded end prevents the end of the rod being pushed through the

cloth, and the deep notch receives the folded sides so that it presents

no inequalities to the bore of the gun. The square shoulder prevents its

being pulled from place on being withdrawn from the gun.

An iron rod may be made in the same way, but a rod made of good hickory

wood has no equal.

A wiping rod may be made of an iron rod having a slot or mortice cut

through one end, and through this a rag is drawn. It may be used in

breech-loading guns where it can be pushed in at one end and drawn out

at the other, but in a muzzle loading gun it cannot well be withdrawn on

account of the rag being folded upon itself in attempting to withdraw it.

If a wiping rag be put in a gun and cannot be withdrawn, it may be

sometimes relieved so as to be withdrawn by turning a little warm water

down the barrel so as to saturate and soften the rag.

Wiping brushes should not be thrust down the bore of a muzzle-loader

as they cannot be readily withdrawn, and in instances where they are

of larger diameter than the bore, the gun must be unbreeched to have

the brush taken out. These brush wipers are very nice for that class of

breech-loaders where they can be inserted at one end and withdrawn from

the other. In using them in this class of guns, insert at the breech and

remove from the muzzle, and then there will be no dirt or debris thrown

among the breech mechanism.

CHAPTER XXVII.

ON BULLET MOULDS.

_Joints for Bullet Moulds._—Simple as it may seem, the joint of bullet

moulds, unless produced by the manufacturer, who has ample tools at his

command, is not often well done. The want of the proper knowledge how “to

lay out” such a joint may be the excuse for ill-fitting work. Yet it is

easy enough, only “know how.”

[Illustration: FIGURE 63.]

By reference to the cut, Fig. 63, the joint and one side of the body of

a bullet mould, it will be observed that the line A is the surface where

the two halves abut or come together. The line B is drawn at right angles

to this and in the diametrical centre of the round projection that is to

form the joint. At the point of intersection of these two lines, or in

other words where these two lines cross each other, make an indent with

a sharp-pointed prick-punch, and there drill a hole of the size that the

rivet is to be made.

[Illustration: FIGURE 64.]

Fig. 64 shows the finished joint ready to receive its mate and be

rivetted together. After the hole for the rivet is made, a tool must be

used to “sweep” or cut down the surface at C, and also leave a sharp and

smooth shoulder as shown at D.

[Illustration: FIGURE 65.]

To make this tool, select a piece of steel, centre it in the lathe, and

turn one end—say an inch or so—of the same size that the joint is to be.

In this end drill a hole lengthwise, but exactly in the centre, of the

same size that the rivet is to be. Cut teeth on this end, and temper as

any tool for cutting metals. Insert a steel pin in the hole, leaving

it projecting half an inch or more, and the tool is ready for use. The

cutting end of the tool is shown in Fig. 65. Of course the other end must

be fitted to the lathe chuck or a bit-stock in order to use it. Insert

the projecting end of the pin in the hole A, drilled for the joint, and

by means of the lathe or bit-stock, cut down each half of the mould to

about half of its thickness. The outer circle or cut of the tool will be

a guide to which to file the circle of the joint. If the cutting end of

the tool be made a little convex it will form the surface of the joint a

little hollowing, and a better fit will be the result.

Countersink the outer ends of the hole, insert the rivet, and rivet them

together. The perfection of the joint can be ascertained by opening and

closing the mould a few times, removing the surface where the rubbing is

apparent, with a fine-cut file.

If the surfaces of the two halves at B, Fig. 64, do not exactly come

together, and the material be brass or malleable iron, a few blows with

a hammer will insure close contact. It may be necessary to say that the

surface at B must first be made true and square, so that the two halves

will fit closely, and then “lay out” the joint from this surface.

If there be many bullet moulds to make the circle of, the joints can be

made by means of a cutter revolving in the lathe. Make this cutter about

two and a half inches in diameter and half an inch thick. Cut teeth in

the sides as well as on the circumference. Fit it in a spindle so it will

revolve. After the joint is drilled fit it so as to turn on a pin fixed

in a piece of iron that is held at one side of the cutter. By feeding

the mould up to the cutter the surface or shoulder is cut where the two

portions of the joint come in contact when opened. By turning the mould

slowly around a portion of the circle is cut, say about one-half. Remove

the mould from the pin, invert it, and the remainder of the circle can be

cut; the whole “round” and the abutting surfaces being produced at two

cuts; a little smoothing up with a file being necessary to finish it.

This operation and the cutting is shown in Fig. 66.

[Illustration: FIGURE 66.]

_How to Make a Ball Cherry._—The term “cherry,” as applied to the tool

used to make the mould for spherical balls or bullets, was no doubt

borrowed from the fruit of the same name—in fact the fruit and tool are

very similar in form and size. To any one not conversant with the process

of producing a sphere in metal it seems a very difficult operation, but

nevertheless it is very simple, and only requires a little knowledge

and experience to make a cherry to fit any bore of gun. This is the

rule governing the operation: A rotating body is passed through a

properly-shaped circular aperture in a flat steel die that is held with

its upper or cutting in the same plane as the axial line of the body

rotating. That’s all.

[Illustration: FIGURE 67.]

Now, to make application of the rule. Suppose we have a rifle of a

certain bore to which is to be fitted a round ball. First, take a piece

of steel, we will say about one-quarter of an inch thick, about one inch

wide and about six or eight inches long. An old file of good quality,

with the temper drawn and the teeth ground away, may answer the purpose.

It should be annealed as soft as possible. With a drill make a hole near

one end, but a little less in size than the bullet to be produced. With a

taper half-round reamer cut out the hole until that side of it which is

to be the upper or cutting edge is exactly the size of the bullet desired.

The advantage of using this taper half-round reamer is the hole is made

perfectly round, and at the same time the taper of the reamer gives a

bevel to the hole that forms a good, strong and effective cutting edge.

With a file cut out a portion of the tool of a V shape, bevelling the

edges the same as the hole as shown in Fig. 67. This V may be either

cut on the end, a side of the tool, as shown, but in use it is preferred

to be cut on the side, as then, if necessary, the hand can find a hold

on that end to assist it in operating. When done, temper for use. For

the cherry, turn a piece of steel in the lathe to fit a chuck. Half-inch

octagon is perhaps the best size of steel from which to make cherries of

less diameter than half-inch, and the length about six inches. The end on

which the cherry is to be made is roughly fashioned into a ball, leaving

the end where the centre supports it to be removed by the lathe tool or

by filing.

[Illustration: FIGURE 68.]

When fitted so that the rough blank will be held firmly in the chuck, run

the lathe at moderate speed, set the T rest so that the steel die can

be held on it about level with the under side of the rotating blank. On

the rest lay the die, and press the opening so as to receive the rough

sphere, applying oil and not pressing too hard. Let it gradually scrape

its way through the circular aperture, the V-shaped opening in the side

receiving the stem to which the cherry is attached. In Fig. 68 is shown

the finished blank after being passed through the die. If it be preferred

the die may be held in the hands and not supported on the T rest.

Take care to supply plenty of oil to the work, as this will prevent

scratching or tearing the cherry while being formed. It is well to make

two of these holes, one at each end of the piece of steel, roughing the

blank with the first, which is a little larger than the one used to

finish the cherry of the exact size. When this tool gets dull grind on

the upper or cutting edge, but not too much, as it will enlarge the hole,

and the result will be to make a larger cherry.

To form these blanks into cutting tools, a copy can be taken from the

cherries as sold to the trade. Bear in mind to leave the grooves deep

enough to receive the metal cut from the blank mould when in operation.

[Illustration: FIGURE 69.]

It will be observed that the cherries as purchased (Fig. 69) do not have

their cutting edges terminate in that portion of the mould, but usually

on one side. This is done to insure a perfectly spherical form by having

a cutting side operating at the bottom of the hole while it is being

formed. It is somewhat difficult to make this form of cutting edge, and

some patience and care must be exercised or the blank may be spoiled.

Every mechanic knows how nice and rapidly a well-made drill will cut.

Suppose this form of cutting edge be applied to the bullet cherry. It is

no matter if this cherry be round or of conical form. Fill two cutting

edges like a drill on opposite sides of the blank from the shank to the

end of the cherry. It is evident that here the two rounded portions that

are left on each side of the cutting edges to be removed that the tool

is nothing more nor less than a peculiar shaped drill or reamer that

might form an internal sphere. But as this form could not well be applied

between the sides of blank bullet moulds, and as the full rounded sides

would not permit of these edges cutting, then form the rounded surfaces

into similar cutting edges like the two first made, only not so large,

making three or four on each side, according to the size of the cherry.

These cuts can very easily be made with a fine cut three-square or

half-round file. A cherry of this form for a round ball is shown in Fig.

70, and one for a conical ball in Fig. 71.

[Illustration: FIGURE 70.]

[Illustration: FIGURE 71.]

In using a three-square file, to get a fine-cutting edge that will make

a sharp V cut, grind away the teeth of one side. This will remove the

slightly rounded or blunt edge as usually made on this form of file. By

grinding thus, two acute cutting angles can be had from one file. If they

get a little dull on the sharp cutting corner, a little grinding will

restore the edge and make it sharp again.

_Tempering Bullet Cherries._—In tempering the cherry do not leave it too

hard, and be careful not to temper too hard above the spherical portion.

Leave the shank softer, as it will be less liable to break. It is not

necessary to shape the shank so as to exactly conform to the shape of the

V opening in the forming tool, for, as the edges of this opening have

been bevelled the same as the opening that shapes the cherry, they will

act as cutters, and will reduce the shank to conform to the V. It is

well to mark the cherries in some conspicuous place on the shank, with

their size in hundredths of an inch, the same as cartridges are numbered,

and also mark them with the number of round balls to the pound, as was

formerly in vogue among gunsmiths. The finished cherries, as purchased

from dealers, are so numbered.

Cherries, as purchased, have shanks fitted to be used with a bit-stock,

but if the gunsmith fits these tools to be used in a lathe chuck that has

a round hole, necessitating a round shank, and also wishes to use them in

a bit-stock, he can fill up the square hole in the bit-stock by brazing

therein a piece of iron, and then drilling a round hole to fit the tool.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

SCREW-MAKING TOOLS.

The tools used by the “old time” gunsmith for screw making were few and

simple, and are now seldom found except in the shop of some “old veteran”

of the trade. Twenty-five or thirty years ago modifications of these

tools were used in some of the armories where Government arms were made,

and even now the same principle of these tools is employed but changed in

form and adapted to machinery operated by steam or other power.

[Illustration: FIGURE 72.]

Fig. 72 shows a tool to be held in the vise by the projection, and the

rough form of the screw, or a piece of wire of suitable size is inserted

in the hole in the centre of the raised portion, cut with radial teeth,

and a screwdriver inserted in a transverse slot in the other end of the

rough screw, or bit of rod; it is then rotated by a bit stock until by

the pressure applied the teeth cut away the metal and so forms the body

of the screw. To form the head of the screw another tool, shown in Fig.

73 having a countersunk hole made in the centre of the diameter of the

head but a little deeper, is used. The unenlarged portion of the hole in

the tool corresponding to the body of the screw, which being inserted

in the hole is rotated by means of the screwdriver in the bit stock,

until the head is shaped in the same manner that the body was formed. Of

course, different tools had to be made for different sized screws.

[Illustration: FIGURE 73.]

[Illustration: FIGURE 74.]

In forming the tang screw, which has the head bevelled on the under side,

a tool was used like Fig. 74. The rod was turned into a tool in the same

manner as for making a flat headed screw; then the body was inserted in

the bevelled head-making tool and rotated as for making a flat head. The

edges of the bevelled teeth being so formed as to become cutters upon the

inner or central edges, and so reduce the screw head to that shape.

[Illustration: FIGURE 75.]

For countersinking, to let in the heads of these bevelled forms of

screws, a tool is used like the one as shown in Fig. 75—the stem

serving as a guide when inserted in the work, and a slot to admit the

screw-driver, for turning them, being made in the large end. This tool

is made about two inches in length, the head being about half an inch in

diameter.

The length of the tools in Figs. 72, 73 and 74, where they are held in

the vise, is about an inch and a half or an inch and three-quarters; the

width from half an inch to five-eighths, according to size; the thickness

one-quarter inch. The round part with the cutting teeth is about

three-quarters of an inch in height from the flat portion, and is about

the same diameter. The teeth may be in number five, six or eight, as most

convenient to make. The tools for bevelled heads are best made with five

teeth.

_Making Small Taps._—The best manner of making large taps is to turn

them to size in a lathe, and then cut the screw by the same means of with

a die plate. Small taps cannot very well be so made. A very good way is

to get good steel wire—generally sold of all sizes, under the name of

Stubs’ steel wire—and from this make taps; the thread can be cut by means

of a die stock.

When the thread is properly made, there are several ways to form it so

as to make it a cutting tool. One method is to file it with four sides,

making it a square. In this case it scarcely cuts, but rather “jams” up

a thread. Another one is to file it triangular or “three square.” This

form makes it rather a better form, as regards cutting quality; but as in

case of the square form, it will be observed that the inclination of the

sides is such that they would not be selected for a cutting tool if such

an angle were made as a tool for that purpose. If two flutes or grooves

be made of angular form, with a square file, or two hollows be cut with

a round file, these flutes running lengthwise with the tool, the edges

then present more of the aspect of a cutting tool; but the distance is

so great between the flutes that there is great friction, and breakage

will result if the hole to be tapped be too small, or too much force

be applied. If three or four flutes be made the evil of friction will

then be remedied. Be sure to cut the flutes deep enough to receive all

cuttings that may be removed or the tap will become clogged, and can with

difficulty be turned out, or perhaps may be broken.

A cheap and good way to finish a tap is, after the thread is made, to

file away one-half of its diameter nearly the length of the thread. This

will give great clearance and space for the cuttings, and at the same

time the cutting edge is very sharp and is strong. It will be found to

cut very easily. If a tap of this make becomes dull it can be sharpened

by grinding on the flat formed by filing it away. If the tap be too large

it can be made smaller by thus grinding.

Large taps work equally well made in this way, but care must be taken in

starting them in a hole or the thread may be made crooked.

Reamers, both large and small, straight or taper, can be made in this

manner, and are effective as well as cheap to make, and can be kept sharp

by grinding them on the flat side.

CHAPTER XXIX.

NOMENCLATURE.

[Illustration: FIGURE 76.]

[Illustration: FIGURE 77.]

_Nomenclature of the Gun Stock._—Fig. 76 shows a gun stock with the

locks, plates and other metal portions removed, _a_, is the butt; _b_,

the small or handle; _c_, the head; _d_, the bump; _e_, the comb; _f_,

the toe; _g_, lock-bed; _h_, fore-end or fore-arm; _i_, pistol-grip; _k_,

cap or end of pistol-grip; _l_, tip of fore-end; _m_, escutcheons; _n_,

mortice for bolt; _o_, chequering.

[Illustration: FIGURE 78.]

[Illustration: FIGURE 79.]

_Nomenclature of the Gun Lock._—The number of pieces in a common gun

lock, as shown, are thirteen, and are fully illustrated in the cut, Fig.

77. _A_, is the lock-plate; _B_, the hammer; _C_, mainspring; _D_, the

bridle; _E_, the tumbler; _F_, the sear; _G_, the sear-spring; _H_, the

swivel or stirrup; _I_, the sear-spring screw; _K_, _K_, _K_, the bridle

screws; _L_, hole for side-screw. In some locks there are only two bridle

screws. In others a screw holds the mainspring to place instead of a lip

catching under the stud.

[Illustration: FIGURE 80.]

[Illustration: FIGURE 81.]

_Nomenclature of the Hammer._—The names of different parts of the hammer,

Fig. 78, are: _a_, the body; _b_, the head; _c_, the comb; _d_, the nose;

_e_, the cup; _f_, tumbler-hole.

[Illustration: FIGURE 82.]

_Nomenclature of the Lock-Plate._—The names of different portions of the

lock-plate, Fig. 79, are: _a_, the bolster; _b_, mainspring-catch; _c_,

hole for mainspring-pivot; _d_, hole for side-screw; _e_, hole for arbor

of tumbler; _f_, hole for sear-screw; _g_, hole for sear spring-screw;

_h_, slot for sear-spring stud; _i_, _i_, holes for bridle screws.

[Illustration: FIGURE 83.]

[Illustration: FIGURE 84.]

_Nomenclature of the Tumbler._—The names of the tumbler, Fig. 80, are:

_a_, the body; _b_, arbor; _c_, squares; _d_, pivot; _e_, swivel arm;

_f_, pin-hole, and _g_, the tumbler-screw hole.

_Nomenclature of the Bridle._—The bridle, Fig. 81, consists of: _a_, the

body; _b_, the eye for tumbler-pivot; _c_, hole for sear-screw; _d_, _d_,

holes for bridle screws. Some tumblers have a pin that goes in a hole in

the lock-plate, and this pin is called a pivot.

[Illustration: FIGURE 85.]

_Nomenclature of the Mainspring._—The mainspring, Fig. 82, consists of:

_a_, the upper branch; _b_, the lower branch; _c_, the hook; _d_, the

pivot; _e_, the catch which is sometimes called the tang.

[Illustration: FIGURE 86.]

_Nomenclature of the Sear._—The sear, Fig. 83, consists of: _a_, the

body; _b_, the nose; _c_, the arm; _d_, screw-hole.

_Nomenclature of the Sear-Spring._—The sear-spring, Fig. 84, consists of:

_a_, the blade; _b_, upper branch; _c_, lower branch; _d_, the stud; _e_,

screw-hole.

_Nomenclature of the Swivel._—The mainspring-swivel or stirrup, Fig. 85,

consists of: _a_, the body; _b_, the axis; and _c_, the tumbler-pin hole.

_Nomenclature of the Breech-Pin._—Fig. 86 shows full size of

musket-barrel breech-pin. _a_, plug with threads; _b_, tenon; _c_, tang;

_d_, tang-screw hole; _e_, face.

In sporting guns the tang is often called the “strap,” and is

distinguished as long and short. The length varying from two and a half

inches as shortest, and five inches as the longest. Sometimes the term

“tail” is employed instead of tang or strap. The diameter of the plug

is generally one-half, five-eighths, and three-quarters of an inch.

The diameter of the pin used in United States muskets and rifles is

three-quarters of an inch.

_Nomenclature of Screws._—In all the screws, the parts are the stem, the

head, the slot and the thread.

CHAPTER XXX.

ON BROWNING.

_Object of Browning._—Browning is done for the purpose of subduing the

bright color of the barrel from the sight of game; to bring out the

fibres of the metal to show their form and beauty, and also to show

whether the metal be free from flaws. It does not prevent barrels from

rusting, but rust will not attack so readily as if left in a bright

condition. The browning is very certain to make all defects appear,

except those designedly hidden, and not only defects of materials but

the filing and finishing of the barrel, if not well done, will appear in

marks in certain lights. A thoroughly well-filed barrel presents, what

may be called, a deep liquid appearance.

_Preparatory Process._—The process of browning is simple and cheap, and

at the same time serves to protect a gun, in some measure, from rust, and

also adds to its appearance. The operation consists in producing a very

thin uniform film of rust, or oxide, upon the iron and giving a gloss to

its surface by rubbing wax over it, or by coating it with some kind of

varnish, as shellac varnish.

Preparatory to browning, the barrel having been filed and polished

bright, is rubbed with lime to remove all grease. Some gun makers use wet

lime or lime water and then rub in dry powdered lime. The vent holes are

to be stopped with wax or wooden plugs, and both breech and muzzle are

to be plugged with wooden rods which serve as handles to hold the barrel

during the operation. The object of plugging is to prevent the mixture

from finding its way into the interior of the barrel and the breech and

muzzle plugs also serving as handles, prevent the hands from coming in

contact with the barrel, which would prevent the stain from “taking,”

and consequently cause a spot of different color from that on other

portions of the work. The solution is generally applied with a sponge or

cloth, sponge being preferable, until the surface is equally moistened,

and after standing in a warm place, generally about twenty-four hours,

it is rubbed off with a stiff brush or a wire card. The state of the

atmosphere will have much to do with the action of the browning mixture.

It can be easily ascertained when the barrels are dry enough to work,

as by applying the card, if dry, the rust will fly off quickly, but if

not dry, the rust will adhere firmly and the surface of the barrel will

look streaky. Some mixtures will dry in twelve hours or even less, but

twenty-four hours will insure their being perfectly dry. The process of

wetting and brushing, or “carding,” is repeated until the barrel has

acquired the desired color. When this stage is reached the barrel is

freely washed with hot water, in which a little potash may be mixed. Then

wash with clean water and dry thoroughly. A little lime water may be

used as a wash to destroy any free acid that may remain in the pores of

the metal.

_The Processes of Browning._—A browning or rust may be obtained very

speedily and well by enclosing the barrels in a chamber and subjecting

them to the vapor of muriatic acid. The same end may be obtained by

moistening the surface with dilute muriatic or nitric acid. There

is another material sometimes used, which is butter or chloride of

antimony. It is sometimes called “bronzing or browning salt.” In using

this substance, a uniform mixture is made with it and olive oil; this is

rubbed upon the barrel, which is slightly heated, and is then exposed

to the air until the required degree of browning is arrived at. The

operation of the antimony is quickened by rubbing on after it, a little

aquafortis.

_Browning Damascus Barrels._—Damascus barrels are browned by first

burnishing the barrels very nicely, then cover with bone oil; pound,

or drop, or strew wood ashes all over, then heat in a wire cage filled

with charcoal, until the first dark blue is obtained. After the barrels

are cold, mix a small quantity of sulphuric acid in water, and with a

hard brush apply to the barrel. The acid will remove the color from the

steel portion of the barrel, leaving the iron, on account of its greater

adhesion, still retaining its blue color. Take care to keep a good color

and not extract too much.

_Browning Belgian Damascus Barrels._—The characteristic, bright, wavy

appearance of Belgian Damascus barrels is generally “eat up,” and the

process is termed “pickling.” The process results in eating away

the softer metals from the harder, used in forming the barrel. The

preparation used is one pound of blue vitriol dissolved in a gallon of

soft water, at the boiling point, and the boiling continued until the

quantity is reduced about one-fourth; then let it cool, and pour out

into a lead trough. Plug the barrels securely at both breech and muzzle,

so that the liquid cannot get into the interior. When the barrels are

immersed in the solution, it will act upon the metal in fifteen to twenty

minutes. Remove and wash with water, and if not satisfactory, immerse

again, until the operation is complete. Pour boiling water over them,

and scratch well with a steel brush or card, which will eventually give

the beautiful, bright, wavy appearance. Laminated steel barrels may be

subjected to this same operation.

_Browning Inferior Barrels._—Inferior quality of Birmingham barrels are

browned as follows: Dissolve as much muriate of mercury as can be taken

up in a glassfull of alcohol. Mix this solution in one pint or more of

water. A small quantity of this mixture is poured on a little whitening

and laid on the barrel with a sponge, rather lightly. As soon as dry,

brush off and lay on a fresh coating. So proceed until the barrel is dark

enough, which is generally about two or three days. The effect is to make

the softer portions of the metal a beautiful brown, while the harder

portions remain quite light. The rusting process is killed by washing in

hot water, after which the barrels are suddenly immersed in cold water.

This has the effect of heightening the brightness of both colors.

_Plain Welded Barrels made to Resemble Twist._—Plain welded barrels are

made to resemble twist barrels by wetting a thread or fine cord with

dilute acid, and winding it around the barrel so as to make spiral lines,

running all along its surface. Wherever the thread touches a slight

coating of rust will be formed. The barrel may be treated in this way

two or three times, and the spiral windings of the thread will exhibit

fine dark lines closely resembling twist barrels. To wind the thread the

barrel may be put between the centres of a lathe, and so turned while it

winds the thread upon it, being guided by the hand, or the barrel may be

supported between centres or put on a rod of wood, which may be turned by

a crank or handle.

Barrels may be colored by exposing them to a degree of heat sufficient

to produce a blue tinge, and is done to color pistol barrels, but when

double gun barrels are soft-soldered together this cannot be done on

account of danger of melting the solder. The inner surface of the barrel,

which is also so colored, must be polished after the operation.

_Smoke Staining._—This method of coloring barrels is as follows: The

barrels are washed with a little sulphuric acid, to cause the metal to

receive the effects of the gas more readily; it is then washed off, and

the barrels rubbed dry. A fire is built with coal possessing as much

hydrogen gas and as little sulphur as possible. Burn the coals until

they give a clear, white flame, with no black smoke. Pass the barrels

through that flame, backward and forward, until the whole are covered

with a black, sooty coating. Place them in a damp, cool cellar and let

them stand about twenty-four hours, and if the place be sufficiently

damp, the iron parts will be covered with a red rust, while the steel

portions still retain the sooty coat. Scratch them off with a wire card

and rub with a piece of cloth, and wash or polish with water, using on

the cloth a little flour of emery. The steel will be found to be of the

original bright color, while the iron will be a little darker. Rub dry,

and pass the barrels through the flame again. Allow them to stand about

twelve hours to rust, and then polish as before. With every smoking the

colors will be a little darker. The darkest color to be obtained is a

fine purple-black color on the iron; the steel inclining to a copper

color.

The principle of this stain is simply the hydrogen gas contained in

the coal acting on the iron, iron being of a softer nature than the

steel, which it does not affect, the flame also possessing a quantity of

tar, it is imperceptibly embodied by the iron during the action of the

oxide, and, when finished, by filling up the spaces created, it becomes

decidedly more impervious to damp or wet than any other stain or browning

which is composed entirely of oxide of iron.

CHAPTER XXXI.

RECIPES FOR BROWNING GUN BARRELS.

_Solution for Browning Gun Barrels._—Make a solution by putting together

in a glass vessel, spirits of nitre, three-quarter ounce; tincture of

steel, three-quarter ounce; black brimstone, one-quarter ounce; blue

vitriol, one-half ounce; corrosive sublimate, one-quarter ounce; nitric

acid, one drachm, and copperas, one-quarter ounce. Mix with one and

one-half pints of rain water, and bottle for use. Clean the barrel till

entirely bright, rubbing it over with finest emery paper, then apply the

solution with a clean white cloth. Set away for twenty-four hours. At the

end of this time a rust will have formed over the barrel. Go over it with

a steel scratch-brush, then rub off all the rust with a woolen cloth. If

you find the brown not dark enough, cover again with the solution and

set away twenty-four hours longer. Remove the rust exactly as in the

first instance, then, the color suiting, wash off with a wet cloth, rub

to thorough dryness, and finish by rubbing with linseed oil, to prevent

further rusting.

This application browns the barrel beautifully, and in case of twist

leaves the markings prominently plain.

The tincture of steel is sometimes not to be obtained at a small drug

store, in which case the unmedicated tincture of iron may be made to

answer reasonably well.

2. Sulphate of copper, one ounce; sweet spirits of nitre, one ounce;

water, one pint. Mix. In a few days it will be ready for use.

3. Tincture muriate of iron, one ounce; nitric ether, one ounce; sulphate

of copper, four scruples; rain water, one pint; if the process is to be

hurried, add two or three grains of oxymuriate of mercury. Put in lime

water to neutralize acid.

4. Spirits of nitre, one pound; alcohol, one pound; corrosive sublimate,

one ounce. Mix and cork for use.

5. Tincture of muriate of iron, one ounce; nitric ether, one ounce;

sulphate of copper, four scruples; rain water, one pint.

6. Alcohol, one and a half ounce; tincture of steel, one and a half

ounce; corrosive sublimate, one and a half ounce; sweet spirits of

nitre, one and a half ounce; blue vitriol, one ounce; nitric acid,

three-quarters of an ounce. Mix and dissolve in one quart of warm water.

Keep in glass bottles.

7. Nitric ether, six ounces; alcohol, one ounce; sulphate of copper (blue

vitriol), one and a half ounce; muriated tincture of iron, one and a

half ounce; tincture of gum benzoin, one and a half ounce. Dissolve the

sulphate of copper in water, add the other ingredients, previously mixed,

and then add three pints of boiling water.

8. Spirits of nitre, one pound; alcohol, one pound; corrosive sublimate,

one ounce. Mix in a bottle and keep corked for use.

9. Soft water, one quart; dissolve in it blue vitriol, two ounces;

corrosive sublimate, one ounce; and one ounce of spirits of nitre. Put on

one coating, and in about an hour a second one, then let the work stand

twelve hours. Oil and rub with cloth.

10. One ounce nitric acid; one ounce blue vitriol; dissolve in four

ounces rain water, and mix all together in a pint of water. Warm the

mixture slightly and apply gently with a sponge.

11. Nitric acid, one-half ounce; sweet spirits of nitre, one-half ounce;

alcohol, one ounce; blue vitriol, two ounces; tincture of iron, one

ounce; soft water, one quart.

12. Sweet spirits of nitre, one and a half ounce; nitric acid, one ounce;

tincture of steel, two ounces; alcohol, one and a half ounce; blue

vitriol, one-half ounce. Dissolve the blue vitriol in cold rain water,

and add the other ingredients to make one quart.

13. Apply the following fluid by means of a clean white cloth: Spirits of

nitre, one pound; alcohol, one pound; corrosive sublimate, one ounce. Mix

in a bottle and keep corked for use. Apply one coat and set in a warm,

dark place, until a red rust is formed over the whole surface, which will

require, in warm weather, from ten to twelve hours; in cold, from fifteen

to twenty hours. Then card it down with a gun-maker’s card, and rub off

with a clean cloth. Repeat the process until the color suits, as each

coat gives a darker shade.

_Browning Recipes for Twist and Laminated Barrels._—1. Sweet spirits of

nitre, one-half ounce; tincture of steel, one-quarter ounce; corrosive

sublimate, one-half ounce; aqua fortis, sixty drops; nitrate of silver,

four grains; a small lump of chalk and one pint of rain water.

2. Tincture of sesqui-chloride of iron, one-half ounce; corrosive

sublimate, one drachm; sulphate of copper, one-half drachm; nitric acid,

one drachm to one and a half drachms; alcohol, six drachms; water, eight

ounces. Dissolve the corrosive sublimate in the alcohol, then add the

solution to the other ingredients and let the whole stand for a month or

six weeks, when it will be ready for use.

3. Sweet spirits of nitre, one ounce; tincture of steel, one-half ounce;

blue vitriol, one-quarter ounce; nitric acid, six drops; corrosive

sublimate, fourteen grains; water, one pint. When the barrels are dark

enough, drop a few drops of muriatic acid in water and wash the barrel

slightly to brighten the twists.

4. Muriatic tincture of steel, one ounce; alcohol, one ounce; muriate

of mercury, one-quarter ounce; strong nitric acid, one-quarter ounce;

blue vitriol, one-eighth ounce; water, one quart. Thoroughly mix the

ingredients. Let them stand about thirty days before using. Wet the

barrels with the mixture, applied with a sponge, about once every two

hours. Scratch off with wire card every morning until the barrels are

dark enough.

_To Blue Gun Barrels._—A very pretty bluish color may be imparted to gun

barrels by dressing them off to brightness with fine emery paper, and

then rubbing them over quickly with nitric acid. When the desired color

has appeared, wash them off with clean water, rub dry with a soft cloth,

and then rub with linseed oil to prevent any further action of the acid.

_Brown Tint for Iron or Steel._—Dissolve, in four parts water, two parts

of crystalized chloride of iron; two parts of chloride of antimony; and

one part of gallic acid, and apply the solution with a sponge or cloth to

the barrel, letting it dry in a warm place. Repeat the process according

to the depth of color desired. Wash with warm water, and dry; then rub

over with boiled linseed oil. The metal receives a brown tint and resists

moisture. The chloride of antimony should be as little acid as possible.

_Transparent Blue for Iron or Steel._—Put together Demar varnish, one

quart; fine ground Prussian blue, one-quarter ounce. Polish the metal

to brightness, and put on thinly with a varnish brush. A beautiful

transparent blue color, but one that will not stand rough usage.

_Varnish for Browned Barrels._—1. Dissolve ten parts clear grains of

mastic, five parts camphor, fifteen grains sandarac, and five parts

elemi, in a sufficient quantity of alcohol, and apply the varnish without

heat. The articles treated with this varnish will not only be preserved

from rust, but their metallic lustre will not be in the least dimmed by

exposure to dampness.

2. Another varnish may be made by using gum shellac, one ounce; gum

sandarac, one ounce; Venice turpentine, one drachm; and ninety-eight per

cent. alcohol, one gallon.

3. Another formula consists of shellac, one ounce; dragon’s blood,

one-quarter of an ounce; alcohol, one quart. A little less dragon’s blood

may be used if the color be too great.

_Finish for Browned Barrels._—There are many ways of finishing barrels

after browning. Some gunsmiths warm the barrels and rub them while

quite warm with a flannel cloth and finish with a little bees-wax and

turpentine. Some polish with a steel burnisher or rub with white wax;

others use a wash of thin shellac varnish laid on carefully and evenly

with a camel’s hair brush. Some finish off with a solution of two ounces

of shellac and three drachms of dragon’s blood dissolved in two quarts of

good alcohol.

_To Remove Old Browning._—To remove old brown browning, plug the vent and

muzzle of the barrels; immerse the browned parts, for about one hour, in

hot lime water, or strong lye, to remove the varnish or grease; wipe them

and put them in vinegar, in a wooden trough, for an hour or less, when

the browning may be wiped off with a rag.

CHAPTER XXXII.

MISCELLANEOUS.

_Shellac and its Uses._—Gum shellac is the gunsmith’s friend. It is

the best material from which to make the varnish he uses, and in

wood-working, if there be cracks or checks in the material, or in

stocking should a little slip of the tool occur while letting in locks or

other parts, a little of the gum judiciously applied remedies the defect,

and, like charity, “covers a multitude of little sins.”

Shellac is often adulterated with resins, and it requires some knowledge

of the article to detect this adulteration. It can only be ascertained by

experience in handling, or by ocular demonstration with an expert.

_To make Shellac Varnish._—To make varnish, put the shellac in a clean

vessel and put over it a quantity of good alcohol, enough to about cover

it, if it lie somewhat compact in the receptacle; if too thick when made

it can be thinned with alcohol. While the gum is dissolving keep it

covered from dust and let it stand in a warm place, as in the sun during

the summer, or near a warm stove in the winter. Too much warmth will tend

to evaporate the alcohol; and for this reason it ought to be somewhat

sealed from the air. It may take two or three days to thoroughly

dissolve the gum for varnish, according to the temperature in which it is

placed, etc.

When the gum is dissolved, thin with alcohol to the proper consistency

for easy application with the brush. If it be dirty, or it be desired to

have it clear and nice, filter it through good blotting paper. When not

using the varnish, keep close covered to prevent evaporation.

_How to conceal Bad Places in Wood-work._—If there be cracks in a stock

or a bad cut made in stocking, as will sometimes happen where locks and

straps are let in, apply a piece of the gum to the place and with a warm

iron melt it into the place, so that it will be well filled; also warm

the wood in close proximity to be sure of good adhesion. Let it remain

until cold and solid, and then finish down the same as the stock is

finished down.

_Another Method._—Another method of filling bad places in wood-work is to

get fine dust, as made with a fine rasp or file, and mix this dust with

thin glue, and rub it into the interstices, letting it remain until hard

and solid, and then finish same as the adjoining wood. Neither this nor

shellac will adhere where there is oil, or where the surface to adhere

has been oiled.

_Emery Cloth and Emery Paper._—Emery paper is the cheaper, but is not

so durable as the cloth. The paper is soon worn out and is torn in

using, but the cloth is seldom destroyed, and can be used so long as any

abrasive material remains upon it.

There are about six grades, say Nos. 00, 0, 1, 1½, 2 and 3, which may be

selected. To use on plain surfaces cut the sheet up in small, convenient

pieces, fold a piece around a file and use as if using the file. In

using a finer number, be careful to remove all the marks left by using

the previous number. If moistened with oil, a fine, soft-appearing, dead

finish is obtained. To use in a lathe, run the work with fast speed and

hold the cloth to place with the hand, or put it around a file and so

hold it. After the pieces are somewhat worn, they can be used to finish

with.

In selecting by the numbers remember that 00 is the finest, and is called

flour of emery cloth, or paper; 0 is a little coarser, and then follow

the different grades in numerical order.

_Uses of the Alcoholic Lamp. How to make Small Springs._—An alcohol

lamp is almost indispensable to the jobbing gunsmith. Suppose a small

bent spring is to be made, a little trigger spring, for instance, such

as is used in many kinds of revolvers, it can be easily formed in this

manner: Take a bit of old watch-spring, heat it in the lamp until it

is blue, then, with the snips or hand-shears, divide it lengthwise to

the necessary width; heat in the flame of the lamp, and, with a pair of

pliers, bend to the required shape. It is not always necessary to temper

these springs, but if it be necessary to do so, heat until red in lamp,

using a blow-pipe if the heat be insufficient, harden in oil, and then

draw the temper to suit. The whole operation can be done without moving

from the bench, and much quicker, and certainly better, than could be

done at the forge.

_How to make Small Drills._—Then, again, to make small drills of steel

wire, use the lamp for heating and tempering. If a small drill be broken,

draw the temper in the lamp preparatory to forming it anew. Drills of

larger size may be hardened in the forge fire, brightened by grinding or

rubbing on a piece of fine emery cloth, and the temper readily drawn in

the lamp. The same process may be applied to tempering small screw taps.

Small screws can be readily blued in the same manner.

_Advantages of the Alcohol Lamp._—The lamp has this advantage over the

forge-fire; it draws the temper very evenly, and the temper color can

be readily seen, as the flame of alcohol makes no smoke to obscure it.

Even for small tempering, when once employed, no gunsmith will think of

discontinuing its use.

_The Soldering Copper._—The soldering copper for the use of the gunsmith

should be about one and a half pounds in weight. The length of the copper

should be about four or five inches, of octagon form, with a square

pyramidal shaped point. It is fixed to an iron rod about eight inches

long, on the end of which is a wooden handle.

_How to Heat the Copper._—When heating the copper for use, the best

way to ascertain the proper heat is to hold it near the face, and if a

bright warm glow is felt, it is hot enough for use. If heated too hot

the tinning will be burned off, and it will not work satisfactorily. To

replace the tinning, heat it warm enough to just melt the solder, and

file the surface to be tinned bright and smooth, then place a little

solder and a bit of resin on a piece of sheet-tin, and in this rub the

heated copper until the brightened surface has received a coating of the

solder, the resin acting as a flux during the operation.

_How to Tin the Copper._—Another method to tin a copper is to put the

solder and the resin on a brick, heat the copper and rub until it

receives the tin coating. The common soldering acid may be used instead

of the resin for a flux. During the operation the point of the copper may

be dipped in the acid to facilitate the tinning. It will be found that

a too free use of the acid, if used as a flux, for general work, will

soon destroy the point of the copper. When this is the case file off the

roughness and heat the copper quite warm, and draw it out to shape on

the anvil, the same as if working a piece of iron. When so shaped, file

smooth and re-tin as directed.

_To Prevent Gun Barrels from Glimmering._—It sometimes happens that

gun-barrels are disposed to throw off a kind of glimmer without any

apparent cause, thus seriously interfering with the hunter or sportsman

in getting a correct sight. Of course, the gunsmith would remedy the

evil by browning the barrel, but the sportsman in the woods could not do

this. Had his friend, the gunsmith, known that such a thing was going

to happen he would have told him to get a green hazel-nut pod, crush

it, and rub the juice over the barrel, which would produce a beautiful

non-glimmering brown. If a green hazel-nut pod could not be had, a green

wild plum or a green wild crab-apple or a bunch of green wild grapes

would answer the same purpose reasonably well. In the absence of these

an unripe black-walnut crushed and rubbed over the barrel would stop the

glimmering; and early in spring, when no kind of fruits had yet appeared,

a young sprout of wild grape-vine crushed and rubbed over the barrel

would make a very good substitute. These were the means resorted to by

the “hunters of Kentucky” in the long-gone days of backwoods life, when

“Old Kentuck” was young.

_Repairing Shot-Chargers._—Very often the stud that holds the lever of

a shot-charger will become loose or be forced from its position. The

best method to repair it is to remove the lever with its spring and the

cutters, put the stud back in place, wet the joint on the inside the

charger with soldering acid, and, holding it with the stud downwards, put

a bit of soft solder upon the joint, and hold it over an alcohol lamp

until the solder melts. If well done it will “stay put.”

Sometimes the lever spring will not remain in place, but will slip out.

To remedy the evil, take a common Berdan cartridge primer, or any other

kind will do, only take one that has been used or has had the priming

removed, put inside it a drop of soldering acid and a bit of solder,

enough to fill it when melted. Hold it over the lamp until the solder

fuses. When it has cooled, wet the charger with a touch of the acid just

where the bend of the spring comes, and there place the primer with the

solder next the wet place. Hold it in position with a bent piece of wire

or a strip of steel bent like a loop. Hold over the lamp, with the primer

downward, until the solder is melted. Replace the spring, and it will be

found that it will remain firmly in its place.

_Broken Plunger Nipples._—When plunger nipples are broken or are lost

from the gun, and none are at hand to repair the damage, a substitute

may be found in a common gun-nipple by filing away a portion of the cone

where the cap is placed. It is worth while to save broken nipples, as

they are taken from guns with this end in view for their use. They can

be annealed or the temper drawn, and they can be kept ready for drilling

for the strikers and cutting over to fit the gun in which they are to be

inserted. The nipple used in military arms makes a good substitute for a

broken plunger nipple, as the thread is nearly the same as that of some

plunger nipples.

_How to Remove Rusted Screws, Broken Nipples, etc._—Sometimes it so

happens that a screw is so rusted in a lock or other part of a gun, or a

rusted nipple refuses to start from its seat, and by repeated trials the

sides of the screw-head adjoining the slot are worn away or the squares

of the nipple are forced off, and the removal of either screw or nipple

an almost impossibility with the hand screw-driver or nipple wrench. In

such cases have a screw-driver or the nipple wrench fitted to the lathe

chuck, and, holding the screw or nipple in place to be thus turned out,

move the dead spindle of the lathe so that the work be firmly held in

place, with no chance to “give back,” then turn the lathe by moving the

fly-wheel with the hand, or hold the wheel fast and turn the work, and,

as there is no chance for the tool to slip from its place, the screw and

nipple is almost sure to be started. If so, it may be readily turned from

its place by hand.

_Converting Muskets to Sporting Guns._—Very often old muskets are brought

to the gunsmith to have the rifling bored out and changed so as to

present more of the appearance of a sporting gun. If properly worked over

they make a gun not very bad-looking, but very serviceable, as they will

stand a great amount of abuse and will bear large charges. For shooting

hawks and keeping corn-fields clear of depredators they are “just the

thing.”

After the rifling is removed, cut off the barrel to 30 or 32 inches in

length. Take off the bands and throw them away. Cut off the stock where

the top of the lower band comes, solder a rib on under side of the barrel

and attach two thimbles to receive a wooden ramrod. Bore out the stock

to receive the wooden rod, using the thimbles on the rib as guides in so

doing. Fit the rod as in sporting guns. Cast a tip on fore end of stock

where the lower band was, using the lower shoulder where the band rested

for the shoulder of the tip. Remove the elevating sight by heating, if it

be soldered on, and fix muzzle sight by soldering on a bit of brass, or

by drilling a hole and putting in a pin and filing to shape.

In boring for the rod the bit may strike the forward lock-screw, and when

this be the case float the stock so that the rod will go above the screw.

Don’t attempt to change the shape of the stock by removing any portion of

it, otherwise than stated, for by so doing the shape and symmetry will be

lost, and it will show to be a botch job.

To hold the barrel in place a loop for either wire or bolt must be

attached to the barrel a little distance back from the fore end, and a

wire or bolt put through the stock the same as other guns are made. In

place of the wire or bolt a very good plan is to put a short stud on the

barrel, and from the under side of the fore end put in a screw with a

large head, like a tumbler-screw. In this case it is necessary to drill a

hole through the stud to let the ramrod pass through.

_Patent Breech, Bursted._—As the right-hand barrel of double

muzzle-loading guns is fired more than the other, it sometimes happens

that the patent breech of this barrel is destroyed or becomes defective.

It can be replaced by taking a piece of good sound iron, cut down one end

of it, and cut a thread the same as if making a breech-pin. After being

fitted to the barrel cup it for powder-chamber like the one removed, and

cut the hook end off to length. Make the nipple seat as given in the

article on that subject. File the hook so as to fit the break-off, remove

from the gun, and case-harden. A somewhat formidable-looking job to the

one who never made one, but very easy and simple when once accomplished.

_Broken Tumblers._—It often happens that the tumbler in a lock is broken

off where the hammer goes on, and no tumbler is at hand to replace it. A

repair may be made by filing away the broken square and filing a groove

or slot down the round part where it went through the lock plate. Fit

a piece of square iron or steel, of the size of the broken square, or

a round piece that will make the square, to the tumbler by filing away

one end to fit the slot filed in the round part. Hold it in place with a

piece of binding wire twisted around it, and braze it with spelter solder

or good soft copper or brass, then finish to fit the hammer.

Another way is to remove the end where it goes into the bridle and then

drill a hole through the tumbler of the size of this end or bearing;

make the piece to be brazed on with one end to fit this hole and put it

through far enough to make the end filed away. When fitted, braze and

finish.

When the trigger catch of a tumbler is broken or is worn away, it can be

entirely removed by filing and a piece of steel fitted or held by a small

rivet and then brazed. After being finished up and fitted to the trigger,

the tumbler can be hardened, care being taken not to heat it sufficiently

to melt the brazing material.

_Describing Lines on Bright Surfaces._—Many gunsmiths find it difficult

to make the pattern of work upon iron or steel, especially after the

surface is finished. Yet it is necessary to have the outline of the

intended form. For instance, if the pattern of a hammer for a revolver or

a gun hammer, the sides of which are both flat (in fact the hammers of

many breech-loading rifles are made in this manner), be required to be

made on a piece of iron or steel that has been faced down, the method is

to drill a hole for the screw or pin on which it turns, then fasten the

pattern to the work by driving a piece of wire into the hole, and, with

a sharp scriber, mark around the pattern, which is then removed and the

work filed away to the line. If the hammer be a broken one, then care

must be taken to have the pieces held carefully as they were before being

broken. If the pieces be somewhat small and difficult to hold properly,

warm them over a spirit lamp and smear the sides to be put against the

blank, lightly with beeswax, and this will tend to hold them better in

place and prevent their slipping.

To obtain a more permanent line and one that will show very distinctly in

all its tracings, coat the surface on which the line is to be made with a

film of copper. To do this take a lump of sulphate of copper, sometimes

called blue vitriol or blue stone, wet it with water and rub over the

bright surface of the work. The moisture will dry in a few minutes,

leaving a surface or film of pure copper. Put the pattern in place and

describe the outline. Upon removing the pattern the line will be found

to be clear and showing very distinctly through the coppery surface.

Three or four light rubs with the sulphate are sufficient to produce this

surface, which is so very thin that it may be easily removed when the

work is done with a fine file, or by rubbing with a bit of emery paper or

emery cloth.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

ON POWDER AND SHOT.

_To Select Buck Shot._—The proper way is to put a wad in the muzzle of

the gun, about half an inch down, and fit the shot in perfect layers; if

this is observed, there will be no necessity to try them in the cartridge

case, as they will be sure to fit. Buck-shot cast from a mould with nine

to the 1⅛ ounce, will just fit a twelve-bore barrel at the muzzle in a

choke bore. If smaller shot is required, choose four to a layer, or five,

and avoid the sizes that come between. At forty yards, all these pellets

ought to go in a 26-inch circle, and the penetration be equal to a small

rifle.

_Weighing Powder, etc._—For weighing powder charges for rifles,

Apothecaries’ scales and the Apothecaries’ table of weights and measures

are used. The table is:

20 grains, 1 scruple;

3 scruples, 1 drachm;

8 drachms, 1 ounce;

12 ounces, 1 pound.

Powder is bought and sold by Avoirdupois weight, which has 16 ounces to

the pound. The table is:

16 drachms, 1 ounce;

16 ounces, 1 pound.

The standard unit of weight of the U. S., is the pound, Troy weight, the

table of which is:

24 grains, 1 pennyweight;

20 pennyweights, 1 ounce;

12 ounces, 1 pound.

The grain, ounce, or pound, Troy, and the grain, ounce, and pound,

Apothecaries’ weight, are precisely the same; but the ounce is

differently divided.

The grain weight is the same in both tables. The pound Avoirdupois, like

the pound Troy, contains 7,000 grains. The pound Apothecaries, contains

5,760 grains.

One pound of powder, Avoirdupois weight, will load 140 fifty-grain

cartridges; 93 seventy-five-grain cartridges; 70 one-hundred-grain

cartridges.

A dram Avoirdupois is equal to 27¹¹⁄₃₂ grains.

In weighing bullets and powder in grains, Troy weight is used, and 437½

grains are equal to one ounce Avoirdupois. The drachm, Dixon measure, is

27½ grains, Troy or Apothecaries’ weight.

COMPARATIVE SIZES OF SHOT.

------------+------------------------------------------------------------

| SOFT SHOT PELLETS TO OUNCE.

+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------

| | | |Baltimore |St. | |Diameter

DESCRIPTION.|Sparks|Tatham |Le Roy| |Chicago|Louis |English|of Shot

------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------

Extra Fine | | 84,021| | | | | | ¹½⁄₁₀₀

Dust. | | | | | | | |

Fine Dust. | | 10,784| | | | | | ³⁄₁₀₀

Dust. | 5910 | 4565 | | | | | | ⁴⁄₁₀₀

No. 12. | 3316 | 2326 | 1778 | 2232 | 2400 | 2820 | | ⁵⁄₁₀₀

” 11. | 1660 | 1346 | 982 | 1536 | 1414 | 1700 | | ⁶⁄₁₀₀

” 10. | 950 | 848 | 822 | 815 | 854 | 1006 | 1728 | ⁷⁄₁₀₀

” 9. | 615 | 568 | 560 | 600 | 596 | 680 | 984 | ⁸⁄₁₀₀

” 8. | 426 | 399 | 375 | 365 | 434 | 490 | 600 | ⁹⁄₁₀₀

” 7. | 305 | 291 | 278 | 290 | 323 | 360 | 341 | ¹⁰⁄₁₀₀

” 6. | 245 | 218 | 209 | 190 | 246 | 250 | 280 | ¹¹⁄₁₀₀

” 5. | 182 | 168 | 166 | 150 | 172 | 190 | 218 | ¹²⁄₁₀₀

” 4. | 130 | 132 | 121 | 125 | 146 | 158 | 177 | ¹³⁄₁₀₀

” 3. | 118 | 106 | 98 | 90 | 118 | 126 | 135 | ¹⁴⁄₁₀₀

” 2. | 90 | 86 | 82 | 70 | 92 | 95 | 112 | ¹⁵⁄₁₀₀

” 1. | 80 | 71 | 69 | 60 | 75 | 82 | 82 | ¹⁶⁄₁₀₀

” B. | 63 | 59 | 58 | 50 | 62 | 68 | 75 | ¹⁷⁄₁₀₀

” B.B. | 55 | 50 | 49 | 45 | 53 | 55 | 58 | ¹⁸⁄₁₀₀

” B.B.B. | 48 | 42 | 44 | 40 | 46 | | 47 | ¹⁹⁄₁₀₀

” A. | | | | | | 50 | |

” A.A. | | | | | | 40 | |

” T. | 41 | 36 | 38 | 35 | | | | ²⁰⁄₁₀₀

” T.T. | 36 | 31 | 32 | 30 | | | | ²¹⁄₁₀₀

” O. | | | | | 38 | 39 | | ²⁰⁄₁₀₀

” O.O. | | | | | 33 | 34 | | ²¹⁄₁₀₀

” O.O.O. | | | | | 27 | 28 | | ²²⁄₁₀₀

” T.T.T. | | | 27 | 26 | | | | ²²⁄₁₀₀

” T.T.T.T.| | | 24 | | | | | ²³⁄₁₀₀

” F. | 22 | 27 | | | | | | ²²⁄₁₀₀

” F.F. | | 24 | | | | | | ²³⁄₁₀₀

------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------

| CHILLED SHOT PELLETS TO OUNCE.

------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------

” 12. | 3328 | 2385 | | | | | | ⁵⁄₁₀₀

” 11. | 1670 | 1380 | | | | | | ⁶⁄₁₀₀

” 10. | 960 | 868 | | | | | 1700 | ⁷⁄₁₀₀

” 9. | 618 | 585 | | | | | 1000 | ⁸⁄₁₀₀

” 8. | 432 | 409 | | | | | 606 | ⁹⁄₁₀₀

” 7. | 318 | 299 | | | | | 350 | ¹⁰⁄₁₀₀

” 6. | 253 | 223 | | | | | 270 | ¹¹⁄₁₀₀

” 5. | 190 | 172 | | | | | 220 | ¹²⁄₁₀₀

” 4. | 142 | 136 | | | | | 180 | ¹³⁄₁₀₀

” 3. | 120 | 109 | | | | | 130 | ¹⁴⁄₁₀₀

” 2. | 106 | 88 | | | | | 110 | ¹⁵⁄₁₀₀

” 1. | 89 | 73 | | | | | 80 | ¹⁶⁄₁₀₀

” B. | | 61 | | | | | | ¹⁷⁄₁₀₀

” B.B. | | 52 | | | | | | ¹⁸⁄₁₀₀

” B.B.B. | | 43 | | | | | | ¹⁹⁄₁₀₀

============+======+=======+======+======+=======+======+=======+========

COMPARATIVE SIZES OF BALLS

------------+------------------------------------------------------------

| BALLS TO POUND.

+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------

| | | |Baltimore |St. | |Diameter

DESCRIPTION.|Sparks|Tatham |Le Roy| |Chicago|Louis |English|of Shot

------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------

Buck 3. | 320 | | | 312 | | | | ²⁵⁄₁₀₀

” 8. | | | | | 320 | | | ²⁵⁄₁₀₀

” 4. | | | 300 | | | | | ²⁵⁄₁₀₀

” 3. | | 288 | 270 | | | | | ²⁵⁄₁₀₀

| | | | | | | | ²⁸⁄₁₀₀

S.S.S.G. | | | | | | | 272 |

S.S.G. | | | | | | | 240 |

Buck 2. | 212 | 225 | 238 | 250 | | | | ²⁸⁄₁₀₀

| | | | | | | | ²⁷⁄₁₀₀

| | | | | | | | ²⁹⁄₁₀₀

” 8. | | | | | | 234 | | ²⁶⁄₁₀₀

” 7. | | | | | 212 | 194 | | ²⁹⁄₁₀₀

S.G. | | | | | | | 176 |

Buck 6. | | | | | 165 | 176 | | ³¹⁄₁₀₀

| | | | | | | | ²⁹⁄₁₀₀

I. C. | | | | 174 | | | |

Buck 1. | 165 | 172 | 160 | 182 | | | | ³¹⁄₁₀₀

| | | | | | | | ³⁰⁄₁₀₀

| | | | | | | | ³²⁄₁₀₀

O. | | | | 166 | | | |

Buck 5. | | | | | | 147 | | ³⁰⁄₁₀₀

O. | 144 | 140 | 145 | | | | | ³²⁄₁₀₀

| | | | | | | | ³²⁄₁₀₀

| | | | | | | | ³⁴⁄₁₀₀

M.G. | | | | | | | 136 |

C.P. | 136 | | | | | | | ³³⁄₁₀₀

Buck 5. | | | | | 136 | | | ³³⁄₁₀₀

L. Buck. | 128 | | | | | | | ³⁴⁄₁₀₀

Buck 4. | | | | | | 127 | | ³²⁄₁₀₀

O.O. | | | 120 | 120 | | | | ³⁵⁄₁₀₀

Buck 4. | | | | | 113 | | | ³⁴⁄₁₀₀

” 3. | | | | | | 113 | | ³⁴⁄₁₀₀

O.O. | 112 | 113 | | | | | | ³⁵⁄₁₀₀

| | | | | | | | ³⁴⁄₁₀₀

R. 4. | 100 | | | | | | | ³⁶⁄₁₀₀

O.O.O. | | 100 | | | | | | ³⁶⁄₁₀₀

Buck 3. | | | | | 100 | | | ³⁶⁄₁₀₀

” 2. | | | | | | 97 | | ³⁶⁄₁₀₀

O.O.O. | | | | 88 | | | |

L.G. | | | | | | | 88 |

O.O.O. | 85 | | 85 | | | | | ³⁸⁄₁₀₀

| | | | | | | | ⁴⁰⁄₁₀₀

Balls 38. | | 85 | | | | | | ³⁸⁄₁₀₀

N.P. | | | | 85 | | | |

Buck 1. | | | | | | 84 | | ³⁸⁄₁₀₀

” 2. | | | | | 70 | | | ⁴⁰⁄₁₀₀

58. | | | | 58 | | | |

R. 2. | 55 | | | | | | | ⁴⁴⁄₁₀₀

A.P. | | | | 53 | | | |

Balls 44. | | 50 | | | | 48 | | ⁴⁴⁄₁₀₀

Buck 1. | | | | | 50 | | | ⁴⁴⁄₁₀₀

R. 1. | 36 | | | | | | | ⁵²⁄₁₀₀

32. | | | | 32 | | | |

½ oz. | | | | | | 32 | | ⁵²⁄₁₀₀

M. 18. | 18 | | | | | | | ⁶³⁄₁₀₀

M. 16. | 16 | | | 16 | | | | ⁶⁵⁄₁₀₀

------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------

| COLT PISTOL SIZES.

------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------

Colt 31. |Buck 1| | | |Buck 6 | | |

” 36. |R. 4 | 000 | | |Buck 3 |Buck 2| |

” 44. |R. 2 | B’lls | | |Buck 1 | 44 | |

| | 44 | | | | | |

------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------

COMPARATIVE SIZES OF GUNPOWDER.

Commencing with the Coarsest Grain of each Quality.

----------+---------+----------+---------

Oriental. | Orange. | Hazzard. | Dupont.

----------+---------+----------+---------

COMMON SPORTING.

----------+---------+----------+---------

| C | | Fg

Fg | Fg | Fg | FFg

FFg | FFg | FFg | FFFg

FFFg | FFFg | FFFg |

----------+---------+----------+---------

FINE SPORTING.

----------+---------+----------+---------

Falcon | | American |

No. 1 | | No. 1 |

” 2 | | ” 2 |

” 3 | | ” 3 |

| | | E. R.

----------+---------+----------+---------

FINE DUCKING.

----------+---------+----------+---------

Falcon | | |

& Wild | | |

Fowl. | | |

No. 4 | No. 5 | No. 5 | No. 1

” 3 | ” 4 | ” 4 | ” 2

” 2 | ” 3 | ” 3 | ” 3

” 1 | ” 2 | ” 2 |

----------+---------+----------+---------

BEST QUALITY SPORTING.

----------+---------+----------+---------

Di’mond | | |

Grain. |Lightning| Electric.|

No. 4 | No. 7 | No. 4 |

” 3 | ” 6 | ” 3 |

” 2 | ” 5 | ” 2 |

” 1 | ” 4 | |

Fg | | | Diamond

FFg | | | Grain.

FFFg | | |

----------+---------+----------+---------

Dupont’s Eagle Rifle powder is the finest grain of sporting powder made;

Oriental Falcon Sporting, No. 3 grain, is the nearest to it in size.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES.

_Soft Soldering._—Soft solder, so called, is a composition made by

melting together two parts tin and one part lead. If the gunsmith ever

has occasion to use it, he will need a soldering fluid, which is made

by dropping clippings of zinc into muriatic acid until ebullition has

ceased, then adding to the acid its equal in bulk of pure water, although

some mechanics do not consider the addition of water as necessary.

Clean thoroughly the parts to be soldered together, then wet them with

the soldering fluid. Next place in the joint a thin bit of the soft

solder, and expose to heat, the heating agent to be clear of oil. The

pieces should be held, pressed between the blades of large tweezers, so

that when the solder melts the two parts will come directly together.

So soon as the solder melts, the work must be taken from the fire, as

the soldering will be complete. A little longer exposure would burn the

solder and spoil the work.

_Good Soft Solder._—Good soft solder is composed of equal parts of pure

tin and good soft lead. The lead from old tea-chests is excellent.

Plumbers’ solder is often made of lead three parts and tin one part.

_Soldering Fluid._—A soldering fluid for jewelers’ use is made by adding

to alcohol all the chloride of zinc it will dissolve.

_Brazing._—This consists in uniting iron and other hard-melting metals

with a brass solder. Put the parts together as for soft soldering, lay

the brass between the pieces or along the upper edge of the joint, if it

can be held vertically, and add a goodly supply of pulverized borax to

act as a flux. Heat over a charcoal fire till the brass melts and runs

down into the joint, then take from the fire and cool. Before beginning

the operation of brazing the parts to be put together must be made

entirely clean, and then freshly filed to brightness.

_To Braze Lugs on Gun Barrels._—When not practicable to fasten the lugs

by means of pins or rivets, hold them in place with binding wire. Take a

piece of iron, say ¼ inch thick and 2 inches or more in width, and make

in it a slot some larger than the lug to be brazed. Lay the barrel on

the iron sideways, and pack up the lug so as to lie level, if necessary,

also taking care that it is on straight. Pure copper is excellent for all

kinds of brazing, when the color of the copper is not objectionable.

_Hard Soldering._—See “To Solder Brass,” in Chapter XII, which about

covers the whole thing, varying only in the composition of the solder for

different metals. The brass solder there described acts equally well for

soldering copper, but for silver a solder is made composed of two parts

silver and one part brass.

_Hard Solders._—1. A hard solder that is yellow and easily fusible is

made of copper, 4½ parts, and zinc, 5½ parts.

2. To hard solder iron use good tough brass or sheet copper, with borax

as a flux.

3. Pure copper, cut in thin strips, with borax as a flux, is excellent

for brazing iron or steel.

_Alloy for Adhering to Iron or Steel._—Melt together, tin 3 parts,

zinc 7½ parts, and copper 39½ parts. Clean the iron or steel, file to

brightness and cast the alloy upon it. The iron or steel should be heated

up to about the melting temperature of the alloy. This alloy will adhere

firmly to the other metal, and as its rate of expansion is about the same

as the iron or steel, under all circumstances, it will never come loose.

It finishes up nicely and presents a very neat, light yellow appearance.

Some gunsmiths use it for brazing purposes on account of its adhesive

properties and its ease of fusion. It does not make so strong a joint as

brass or copper, and therefore would not give so “honest” a job.

_Gun Oil._—A good quality of sperm oil is undoubtedly the best oil to

apply to gun work, especially the locks. Any fine animal oil may be used

as a substitute. The oil from the fat of the woodchuck or ground-hog is

admired by many. Fine quality of sewing-machine oil is very good. It must

not be thinned or “cut” with kerosene or benzine, as this reduces its

wearing quality. It must not thicken with exposure to the cold.

Vegetable oils are unfit for the locks of guns. Castor oil will gum up

and become filthy in the extreme. Olive oil or “sweet oil” has very

often been agitated, with common salt, nitric ether, sulphuric acid or

hydrochloric acid to keep it from becoming rancid. Application of such

oil, in addition to its bad lubricating quality, will rust and spoil work

where applied.

If desired to clarify oil, put in a bottle, say a quart of oil, and add

about half a pound of fine lead shavings. In a short time the impurities

will collect on the lead, when the clarified portion may be poured

off. Let the bottle stand in the sun for two or three weeks during the

process, and then filter through fine white blotting-paper. If some

portion be found to congeal by cold, separate the clear portion from the

other, reserving the uncongealed for use during exposure of the gun to

cold weather.

_Gunsmith’s Glue._—Dissolve four ounces of good glue in sixteen ounces

of strong acetic acid by exposure to gentle heat. This is not exactly

a liquid glue preparation—it is only semi-liquid. It may be kept for

any length of time desired, and, when wanted for use, a slight warming

up is all the preparation necessary. The gunsmith finds it not only

very convenient, in case he should have occasion to use glue about his

woodwork, but also very good.

CHAPTER XXXV.

ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OF GUNS.

_The Muzzle-Loading Shot-Gun._—In the days when the gun of this character

was at its zenith, its quality could be approximately decided upon by

a glance at the manufacturer’s brand which it bore, but at present

that rule cannot be so safely trusted. Many of the houses which built

for themselves a fine reputation by the manufacture of fine guns of

the muzzle-loading order, have either ceased to exist, or have gone

exclusively into the manufacture of breech-loaders, consequently the old

brands, though they may still be met with, are not reliable. In truth

they are more often dangerous signs than otherwise, in consequence of

the fact that unscrupulous manufacturers not unfrequently apply them

surreptitiously as an agent to aid in working off their bogus goods. It

is, therefore, best to give brands but little consideration in judging

the quality of new muzzle-loaders, trusting mainly on personal knowledge

as to what a good gun should be, backed up by thorough test in all cases

where such a thing is necessary.

The man capable of becoming a good gunsmith will require no special rules

for his government in this matter. He will know that a steel gun is

preferable to an iron gun, and he will be able to readily distinguish

between steel and iron. He will also know that a gun finely finished in

every particular, is, undoubtedly, a better gun than one put together

in the rough, and his own eyes will quickly tell him as to the finish.

Prompted by these considerations, the muzzle-loading shot-gun is turned

over to the good sense of the gunsmith for adjudgement as to superior or

inferior qualities, leaving him to decide upon it, unbiased by any rules

that could be given, which is the most rational course to pursue, since,

under existing circumstances it would be impossible to make rules that

would be entirely reliable.

_The Muzzle-loading Rifle._—In the case of the old-fashioned Kentucky

rifle, still on the market in limited numbers, eyesight and test, if

necessary, will have to be the main reliance of the gunsmith in judging

of quality. The barrel of a first-quality gun of this character is

wrought iron, made eight-square, and finely finished. The lock is steel,

well put up, and provided with double or set triggers. The stock is

either black-walnut or maple highly polished and oil-finished. The bore

is given as perfect a degree of finish as iron is capable of taking,

and the rifles are deeply-cut and entirely regular all the way through.

The sights are made with great care, some of the finest guns having an

elevating hind-sight to be changed for long or short range—say, for 500

or 50 yards. In some of the older made guns the foresights are silver,

though as a general rule they are made of some kind of white metal

compound not so liable to glimmer as silver. The tube-cylinder has a

vent screw in the end of it, which may be taken out for the purpose of

working in powder in case a ball should have been accidently put down

without powder, which accident, without this provision, would be apt

to necessitate an unbreeching of the gun. The barrels are of different

lengths, ranging from 26 to 40 inches, and the size of bore is equally

varied. It is usually estimated by the number of round bullets a pound

of lead will cast to fit it, as 200 (smallest bore), 175, 100, and so

on down to 50, which is considered the largest bore in common use. The

weight of the gun complete usually ranges at from six to twelve pounds.

A steel-barrel rifle made on the Kentucky plan may be met with

occasionally, though not often. The steel barrel generally adds about

five dollars in cost over that of the iron barrel finished in the same

way, and is supposed to be at least that much better on account of less

liability to wear and roughen in the bore.

The muzzle-loading rifle of more modern style differs very materially

from the old Kentucky rifle in many respects. Mr. Barber, in his “Crack

Shot,” says of it that so many changes are constantly taking place, and

opinions are so diversified, that it is really difficult to state what is

the prevailing style; but he is of opinion that a barrel of from thirty

to thirty-four inches in length, with a bore from thirty-eight hundredths

inch to forty-four hundredths inch will be found to answer best for

general purposes. If for sporting purposes exclusively the barrel ought

to be a little shorter, perhaps, though he believes the great hunters of

the plains use rifles with barrels of from thirty five to forty inches in

length, and of a calibre so small as to enable them to make sixty round

balls out of one pound of lead.

But, still adopting Barber, it is very difficult to lay down particular

rules as to what a muzzle-loading rifle of modern style should be, as

marksmen and gunmakers are both whimsical, and each has his set ideas and

notions concerning the matter. Some advocate a long barrel, while others

maintain that anything beyond thirty-three inches militates against good

shooting.

There are many prominent establishments engaged in the manufacture of

modern muzzle-loading rifles, some of them carrying splendid reputations,

hence in this case a good deal of reliance can be placed upon brands. For

instance, should a rifle be seen marked to Wesson, it is a guarantee of

a good gun, for the reputation of the manufacturer is worth too much to

admit of risking its tarnish by putting upon the market goods bearing his

brand that are not fully up to all that is claimed for them.

And now that reference has been made incidentally to Wesson, a

description may as well be made of some of the peculiarities of his

muzzle-loading rifle as presenting a fair sample of a first-class gun

of this order. And to do this under the best of authority, reference is

made to Mr. Chapman’s book on the Rifle, which is generally accepted as a

standard work.

Referring to the Wesson muzzle-loading rifle, Mr. Chapman says that the

barrel is made of cast steel, not highly carbonized, but thoroughly

annealed in an air-tight oven. The length of the barrel is two feet

eight inches when the loading muzzle is off. Outside, the barrel tapers

a little from breech to muzzle, the difference in diameter being one

fourth of an inch. The barrel is not furnished with a rib, except it be

that the short tube at the breech can be called a rib, the peculiarity

of stocking doing away with the necessity for a regular rib. The gun has

a patent breech, which is made of iron case-hardened. It is joined to

the break-off by the old-fashioned hook, with the addition of a half-lap

joint, secured by a square-headed screw. Such a mode of fastening the

barrel destroys the necessity for wood forward of the breech, and gives a

peculiarly elegant and striking appearance to the arm. The loading-muzzle

is put on by means of four steel wire pins about one-eighth of an inch in

diameter and three-eighths long, and the holes for these pins are located

as near the outside as possible.

The grooves of this rifle are cut with a twist, which turns the bullet

once in three feet six inches. There are six grooves, and the spaces

between them are left entirely square to the interior surface, presenting

a kind of dove-tail appearance. The grooves are not quite so wide as the

spaces between them. The breech is furnished with a vent or breathing

nipple, about the diameter of a common pin, and bushed with platinum.

The lock has back-action, furnished with a single set. The stock is of

black walnut, made as straight as possible. It is furnished with a patch

box, and also a small box to contain a wiper, which can be attached to

the end of the ramrod. A globe sight is fixed into the stock, just behind

the break-off, while a bead sight holds position at the muzzle-end of the

barrel. The weight of the gun complete is ten pounds.

Of course it will be clearly understood that this description is not

offered as of the best muzzle-loading rifle made, but simply because

it happened to be convenient to make. There are, doubtless, other

guns equally as good, and a preference of one over the other, in all

probability, would have to be born of circumstances, as something

peculiar in the tastes or requirements of the person by whom the gun

was to be used, or in the particular line of use to which it was to be

applied.

_The Breech-loading Shot Gun._—Gloan tells us that, in judging the

quality of a breech-loader, there are other things to be taken into

consideration besides the mere shooting of the gun. First among these is

its safety relative to the person using it. There is more machinery and

complication about it than there is about the muzzle-loader, and to that

extent, if not made upon sound principles, and perfectly well made, it is

more dangerous, to say nothing of being less durable.

But the principle must be a prime consideration, for, if a gun, no matter

how well made, is constructed with a working movement which presents

great strain and great friction, it must speedily wear out. Even the

best breech-loader, with the soundest known action, must wear out sooner

than would an arm of less complication, because some peculiar strain

and friction cannot possibly be avoided; hence the great importance of

passing judgment entirely favorable upon only the best.

The first thing to decide upon, then, is the principle upon which the

gun works. No special rules can be given to govern in the formation of

this decision other than that simplicity is always worthy of favorable

consideration—the greater the simplicity the better, provided it works

to the full accomplishment of all the ends desired. Next to simplicity

may be ranked durability, and next to this may come in good shooting and

safety. These last two considerations are put as third and fourth, when

many persons would be inclined to rank them as second and first. Why this

is done is because many of the most common guns are safe enough, so far

as that is concerned, while not a few of them shoot very well for a while.

Some most excellent shooting has been done with extremely common guns,

working upon a principle so complicated and so imperfect as to render

it impossible for them to remain in order beyond a comparatively short

length of time.

The English manufacturers, of good reputation, take great pains with

their breech-loading shot-guns; hence, until within a very few years,

English guns were considered entirely superior to those of American

make, but now it is acknowledged, even by the English people, that in

America we put up, at least, some guns that have no superiors. This last

named fact has somewhat destroyed the weight of English brands with

persons who are looking for a gun of the very best quality. But the

advance on the part of American gunmakers is not the only thing that

has worked against the reputation of English guns for being eminently

the best. The gun-making business of Belgium has seriously injured the

general good name of English guns, just as the watch-making business of

Switzerland has injured the good name of English watches. For instance,

Liege, in Belgium, is almost literally a city of gunmakers. It is

estimated that there are now more small fire-arms made in Liege than in

all the rest of the world put together, though Liege gets credit for

comparatively few of them. The different parts are manufactured there,

and shipped to other countries as gunmakers’ materials, where they are

put together and branded with the name of a maker who really played no

part whatever in the making. In Liege each manufacturing house is devoted

to the manufacture of but a single part, knowing nothing whatever of

the other parts manufactured at other establishments. As a result the

gun made of Liege materials is simply a patchwork, and hence could not

possibly be so reliable as a gun whose every part is made in the same

establishment, and under the eye of the same general superintendent.

England has gone largely into the putting up of these patchwork guns,

simply for the reason that she can buy the Liege materials much cheaper

than she can make them at home. This cheapness is due to the inferior

materials used by the Liege manufacturers, and to the extremely low

rate of wages in Belgium. It is asserted, upon good authority, that the

English “manufacturer” can get his finished materials from Liege, paying

regular Government duty, and put together what would appear to be a fair

quality of double-barrel breech-loading shot-gun, at the cost of about

seven dollars. And he does it, giving the gun to the market under his

own brand, or surreptitiously under that of some other house known to be

more reliable than his own. As a consequence, English reputation is sadly

injured as regards the business of making the best guns, and gunsmiths

can no longer trust to English brands as a sure guarantee of first-class

quality. Of course there are some English manufacturers whom it will

always do to trust, provided one knows to a certainty that the gun is

really genuine.

If that patchwork game is played in this country at all it is on a small

scale as yet, and is confined to the cheapest guns. A gun from any of

our prominent houses is quite sure to be as represented; and, until the

gunsmith becomes so familiar with all the requirements of a good gun,

the maker’s price may be taken as a pretty safe rule by which to judge

of quality. Each manufacturing house is apt to have its guns graded, and

priced accordingly—the higher the price asked the better the gun in

every case, for it is as much the desire of the prominent manufacturer to

make a good name as it is to make a good gun.

Of course this rule can only be considered entirely safe in case where

the scale of prices has been obtained directly from headquarters. Passing

through half a dozen or so of middle houses might work important changes

from the original price list.

Where none of these rules can be brought to bear it is but natural that

the inexperienced gunsmith should turn to his MANUAL for aid in forming

judgment upon the quality of the gun. A few general ideas may not be out

of place.

All the movements of the action should be smooth, and all the joints

should fit to perfection. The locks should have due consideration. When

the hammer is drawn back it should come with less and less resistance

as it rises, and _vise versa_ when the hammer is let down, exerting its

greatest power immediately on reaching the nipple or firing-pin. But

this increase and decrease of power should be extremely gradual, and not

great. Throughout the movement there should be a steadiness and freeness,

or, as Gloan says, an oiliness, which when once realized, can never

afterwards be mistaken. And when by a regular pressure upon the trigger

the hammer is expertly raised and lowered in rapid succession, the locks

should emit a clear ringing sound at the whole and half-cock with the

resonance and regularity of beats in music. When once heard, this, too,

can never afterwards be mistaken. The locks which perform to perfection

under the tests mentioned are technically said to “speak well.”

Turning from the lock to the lever, the latter should close with such

ease as not to require any particular exertion of the wrist, and when

closed it should hold with such a degree of firmness as to place safety,

while discharging the gun, entirely beyond question. The wedges of the

action should be fully and squarely set in the lump.

If a pin gun the pin should fit in the hole with nicety. If too tight,

the barrels might not close, or the pin might be held back to such an

extent that the cap would not be exploded. If too loose an unnecessary

escape of gas at the discharge would be unavoidable, to the discomfort of

the gunner and the weakening of the shot.

If a central fire the plungers should strike the centre of the cap

unvaryingly. The hammer should come upon the plunger with a blow—not a

mere push.

The countersink of the chambers, and the length and breadth of the action

bed, should be closely observed. The countersink should be cut clean

and deep enough to take the rim of the cartridge without leaving the

slightest projection—else the gun will not shut perfectly. But if, on the

contrary, the countersink be too deep the cartridge comes back on the

breech before the charge makes its exit, which increases the recoil and

renders accuracy less certain.

The central fire strikers should not be too short, an imperfection which

might cause the discharge of the gun while closing it. On the other hand,

they should not be too long, as that would interfere with the free motion

of the gun. In the case of a pin gun the pin should invariably stand in

exact line with the hammer, otherwise the blow would be apt to bend it,

and the chances for exploding the cap would be less certain.

There should be no crevices between the wood and iron. If any such

crevice exists between the stock and the false breech it is likely that

the wood was green when put up, which would settle it that the gun was

not the work of a responsible maker, for no such person would work

imperfectly-seasoned wood.

The extractor of the central fire should never be permitted to escape the

closest scrutiny. It should work without the slightest hitch, and its

arms should enclose about one-half of the cartridge rim. The countersink

should fit the rim precisely, in order that there may be no slipping.

_The Breech-Loading Rifle._—Most of the rules suggested as aids in

forming judgment upon the quality of the breech-loading shot gun, can be

trusted as bearing with equal force in case of the breech-loading rifle.

The makers of breech-loading rifles in the United States have won for

themselves a noble reputation throughout the world; and, to be perfectly

plain, there are very few unreliable manufacturers to be met with among

them. As a consequence, there is not much risk to run in passing

judgment upon a breech-loading rifle of American make. The first thing to

decide upon is the principle, if there is a preference in this direction.

Such decision brings up the gun of some particular maker, after which the

road is easy enough—the price set upon the grade of gun by the maker, may

always be accepted as a clear indication of its quality.

In referring thus to American rifles the idea is not advanced that good

guns are not made in other countries—such a position would be going wide

of the truth. There are _some_ gunmakers in England who turn out the

finest rifles that the world has yet seen, and the most costly. They are

models of perfection in every particular, but when the best shooting

is ascertained it is discovered that they have not proven themselves

superior in that respect, to the more substantial (generally speaking),

but less finely finished and less expensive guns of the American

makers. It is this matter of a really good rifle at comparatively low

figures that has given the American product such an enviable reputation

throughout the world.

Then there is another reason for favorable mention of American rifles

in cases where the quality of the gun is to be judged—there are fewer

chances for meeting with counterfeits on American guns than there are on

guns of foreign make. Here the gunmaker is so deeply concerned in his own

good name that it would be very unsafe to attempt running a “bogus” upon

him—he would trace it to the “last ditch.” Not so in case of the English

maker—having no direct interests thrown all over this country like a

network, as have the American makers, he would, in all probability, never

hear of the bogus gun branded to him and sold on his good reputation for

many times more than it was really worth.

In case where there are no means of getting at the quality of a rifle

from the grade affixed and tests made by a responsible manufacturer, the

gunsmith will of course be forced to fall back upon his own resources.

What these are we need not state. The gun must be subjected to a most

critical examination in every part, in obedience to rules laid down for

examining breech-loading shot guns, after which its shooting qualities

must be thoroughly tested. To no botch at the business can be trusted

the shooting test, if it be wished to decide whether or not a certain

rifle can be recommended as being of first-class quality—the work must be

performed at the hands of an expert, and it must be continued until is

secured unmistakable proof as to how the gun shoots. When a man buys a

good rifle he does it in the expectation of becoming the owner of a gun

qualified to shoot well, and, no matter how perfect it might be in all

other respects, the slightest deficiency in this particular would be sure

to rouse a high degree of uncompromising dissatisfaction.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

ON USING THE RIFLE.

_The Old Kentucky Rifle._—The old backwoods hunters who used the long

Kentucky rifle, had really but a very imperfect idea of its capabilities.

The gun was provided with a hind and a fore-sight, the latter a “bead”

located near the muzzle and rising but little above the common level of

the surface of the barrel, and the former a small vertical plate set in

the barrel a short distance in advance of the lock, and containing in the

centre of its upper edge a fine slit through which to look at the “bead”

in the act of taking aim. The hind-sight stood further above the barrel

than the fore-sight, but why it so stood was something about which the

owner seldom concerned himself. Of course the gunsmith knew it was for

the purpose of setting the “aim” below the starting line of the bullet,

in order that the natural curve in its flight might be accommodated,

but this was usually a secret of the gunsmiths which nobody cared to

possess. The sight was immovable, could neither be raised nor lowered,

consequently the gun could not be adapted to circumstances of long or

short range. The elevation of the sight usually crossed the line of

vision and that of the flight of the bullet at about one hundred yards

distance, hence the shooting at shorter range was apt to be a little

too high and too low at longer range. At two hundred yards it was merely

accidental, though the bullet struck with a degree of force apparently

unabated at that distance. If the hunter killed his game at two hundred

yards, he did it by aiming a few feet too high for a “sight” at one

hundred yards, consequently he never shot at that distance so long as

there was a prospect of being able to creep nearer. And yet, with the

right kind of elevated sight the gun would have been equally as effectual

at two hundred yards as at one hundred; in truth it would have been good

for four and perhaps six hundred yards, but the old hunter had not so

much as a dream of any such thing, but went creeping about through the

woods endeavoring to steal upon his game, unconsciously carrying upon his

shoulder an instrument that with so simple a contrivance as an elevated

sight of proper grade might have brought it down almost as far as the

eye could have seen it. And the game well knew the limited capacity of

his gun, particularly the deer, which would frisk off to the distance of

about three hundred yards and there stop, turn around, stamp their feet

and “whistle” at him in apparent derision. Ah! that he had understood

the real capabilities of his gun, and had suddenly invented and applied

an elevated or long-range sight made after some of the approved modern

plans, how he would have astonished them!