Arrive at Singapore, and sail for China—The Lemma Islands—Their
inhabitants—Boats—Hong Kong Island—Dr. Abel’s visit to the
shore—A pilot’s surprise—Cap, sing, Moon—Cum, sing, Moon—Outlaw
ships—Trade in opium—Researches about the hills—Botanical
productions—Macao—Its streets—Vain endeavours to open a
trade with the Chinese ports—The Rev. C. Gutzlaff—Harbour
of Macao—Jealousy of the Chinese government—Fruit—Wang, hee
canes—The Casa garden—Cave of Camoens—Tributary verses to that
poet.
After a long passage down the Straits of Malacca, we arrived at Singapore
on the 19th of August, and sailed again on the 22d for China.
At daylight, on the 6th of September, we were off the “Lemma Islands,”
having previously arrived in soundings on the 4th, and were frequently
visited by Comprador boats seeking for employment. We took a pilot from
one of them to direct us to “Cap, sing, Moon.” The Lemma Islands, like
most of those about this part of the China coast, are bold, rugged, and
but very scantily covered by vegetation; its geological structure is
principally coarse granite, approaching to sienite, and quartz, which
enters largely into their composition.[8] The inhabitants of these
islands appear to be principally fishermen, and their boats animated the
waters around to some distance, in great numbers: some were of very large
size, being probably of sixty or seventy tons burden, and are inhabited
by whole families; the clatter of women, squalling of children, and
barking of dogs, could be heard in concert, when in beating to windward
we came near any of them.
These slenderly constructed but admirable boats, with their large mat
sails, some having one, two, or three masts, sail with rapidity: they
would often lower a small awkward punt, and bring some fish on board for
sale. The women worked hard, and one would be often seen with an infant
at her back, with others running after, seeking her protection, whilst
she assisted in the various occupations of the ship, in tacking and
hauling the ropes. They all had a dark, wretched appearance, from the
exposure to weather and hardships of many descriptions. When the weather
is stormy, the vessels bring up under lee of one of the numerous islands,
grouped about the coast. I have often seen them assembled, from twenty to
fifty, for the night, under the lee of one of them, on the shore close to
which, some small miserable thatched huts, containing numbers of wretched
inmates, and small patches of cultivated land were visible.
On the 10th we were off Hong Kong Island. It is lofty, bold, and
occasionally its barren appearance is diversified by the verdure of the
ferns and other plants, which give some beauty to the huge piles of
rocks, towering towards the heavens, in gently sloping as well as abrupt
declivities. At one part a small cascade fell from the rocks above into
the ocean abyss beneath, and other places bore the appearance of mountain
torrents being formed during heavy rains.
Dr. Abel, who landed upon it, says, “I took advantage of the first
watering boat to visit the shore, and made one of these mountains and the
waterfall the principal objects of my visit. This mountain, the highest
on the island, is, according to Captain Ross, who has measured it, about
fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, and is composed of trap
approaching to basalt in the compactness of its structure. In ascending
it, I followed the course of a delightful stream, which rises near
its summit, and found by its side a number of interesting plants. The
general surface of the mountain, and indeed of every part of the island
of Hong Kong, that I was able to visit, is remarkably barren, although
in the distance it appears fertile, from a fern which I believe to be
the Polypodium trichotomum of Kœmpfer, which supplies the place of other
plants. I ascended about one thousand feet, and returned by a path which
passed over a small hill, or rather mound, differing in structure from
all the rocks in its neighbourhood, being composed of a very friable
stone of a reddish white colour, much resembling disintegrated feltspar.
On reaching the shore, I examined the rocks by the waterfall, where they
are exposed in large surfaces, and found them composed of basaltic trap,
exhibiting in some places a distinct stratification, in others a confused
columnar arrangement. It is also divided into distinct, well-defined,
rhomboidal masses, separated from each other by very obvious seams, in
which I frequently found cubic crystals of iron pyrites.”[9]
The further progress of the ship was extremely tardy, from calms and
adverse winds, so that we did not reach the Cap, sing, moon harbour,
until the morning of the 12th, and then, from calms, could not enter
it, but anchored outside. The Chinese pilot on board was but of little
service, and he was quite surprised at the commander’s knowledge of the
islands, depth of water, &c., until he found out that he derived it from
the charts and Horsburgh’s Directory. It was quite amusing, when any
difference of opinion existed between them, to hear the pilot, in a pet,
declare, “You look at bookee, but you not alway savez a rightee; bookee
wrong, you wrongee sometime.”
A greater or lesser number of different species of _Libellula_ have been
flying about the ship, ever since we have been in soundings; and it is
said, that when a great number of these insects are seen flying about the
ship, a northerly wind may be expected; but I seldom found the assertion
borne out by the fact, except its happening four or five days after can
be considered a corroboration.
On the following day we entered the “Cap, sing, moon,” for a short time:
it is regarded as a safe and is certainly a picturesque harbour, but
lately it has been left by many of the opium ships for another, by some
considered a safer harbour, and called the “Cum, sing, moon,” formed by
different islands, and the main land to the northward of Macao, and
distant about eighteen miles from that settlement. The “Cap, sing, moon,”
has some towering verdant mountains, with fertile valleys, and little
thatched cottages of fishermen and others, peering through a thicket of
foliage. This is contrasted at another part by barren hills, destitute
of any beauty, excepting what may be scantily imparted by a few stunted
shrubs or ferns.
Well may this be called a celestial empire, wherein moons and stars
condescend to take up their local habitation. It is ludicrous to hear
the inhabitants talking of having intercourse with the celestial people
in the different moons, “Where did you come from last?” “I came from the
other moon,” was a very common question and answer.
On the 14th of September we sailed over to the “Cum, sing, moon,”[10]
and anchored at six o’clock, P.M.; this possessed far more extensive and
picturesque beauties than the harbour we had left.[11] The entrance is,
however, difficult, and even dangerous for strangers; yet, after having
been once, the same person could easily take a ship in or out at any
time without risk, taking advantage of the tides. From the land around
this place not being so elevated as in the rival harbour, the gusts that
descend from the gullies in stormy weather are not so violent, and a ship
is consequently not so liable to drive as has been experienced during
some severe typhoons, which occurred a short time previous to our arrival.
Many of those _outlaw ships_ that trade in opium, (one of the most
important, although prohibited, branches of commerce in the Chinese
empire,) remain either in this harbour, or that of the “Cap, sing, moon,”
during the season of the year that typhoons are expected, and anchor off
the island of Lintin during the fine-weather months. One part of this
trade in opium is carried on by the Chinese smuggling boats, which take
it from the European receiving ships stationed here, or more properly
speaking at “Lintin,” (this being merely a temporary place of refuge from
typhoons).
By occasionally visiting the Hercules, one of the receiving ships for
opium, I was able to observe, through the kindness of Mr. Parry, her
chief officer, how this extensive and lucrative trade is conducted. The
sales are effected in Canton by the European merchants, and orders sent
down with the smuggling boats for the delivery of the opium from the
different ships; the boats engaged in this occupation are armed with
spears, shields, and even fire-arms, to repel any attack that may be made
upon them by the mandarin guard-boats. They are also manned by a very
brave and athletic crew; indeed Chinese fight very well one against the
other, but cannot bring forward sufficient courage to face Europeans,
except the advantages are overpowering on their side. These boats are
provided with sails, in addition to a number of oars and rowers, and they
pass through the water with inconceivable rapidity. The mandarin boats,
having a weaker and less choice crew, can seldom or ever overtake them;
this, however, may in part be explained from the fact of the guard-boats,
(the revenue cutters,) sent by the Chinese government to cruize against
smugglers, coming alongside for a supply of the prohibited drug, to
smuggle it themselves into the heart of the Chinese empire. Any thing can
be done by bribery in this country, and these boats are often employed
for smuggling cassia, treasure, &c. on board European ships at Lintin,
&c.; indeed every smuggling boat that takes opium from an opium ship,
leaves a payment of one dollar on each chest for the mandarins, and on
the opium returns being made up, the sum is regularly paid to them; each
boat leaves also a kum, shaw, or present for the ship, of five dollars.
The chests of the drug are opened on board; the balls or cakes are taken
out, and immediately deposited in small mat bags, brought by them for
the purpose, and sown up; being in that way more convenient to smuggle
than in large heavy chests. There are three kinds of opium usually sold
in the English ships—the Malwa, Benares, and Patna; a fourth, the Turkey
opium, is confined to American and other foreign vessels. The Patna
opium is in balls, packed in partitioned cases, each chest containing
forty balls. Old opium fetches a higher price than new; the former being
solid, the latter soft and more liable to run. The old chests, so termed,
are usually two years old when they come under that denomination. The
Malwa opium is in rather flattened cakes. The prices of this drug of
course fluctuate very much: the consumption in the Chinese Empire must
be enormous, and is entirely—not the least extraordinary part of the
affair—carried on by an illicit trade.[12]
The payments are usually made, if to any extent, in Sycee silver, which
is taken by weight, no silver coinage being acknowledged by the Chinese
government. The Chinese purchasers of the opium refine it by boiling,
previous to using it for smoking: the mandarins, besides smoking, use it
also in the form of tincture, usually carrying a small bottle containing
it about them. The present Emperor of China has been described as being
totally incapacitated from any business, through the excess to which he
has carried the debilitating practice of opium smoking.
I took several opportunities of making _herborisations_ about the hills
in this harbour; and in so doing, fortunately, did not meet with any
molestation from the inhabitants. On landing, usually upon a sandy
beach, or rocks of granite, shell-fish, and other marine animals, were
very scarce. The hills were covered, about the declivities, with a large
quantity of shrubs and plants, and a variety of grasses: the summits
were usually barren, and covered with sand. Two or three species of
_Melastoma_ were very abundant; and one species, the _quinquenervia_,
was in full flower, being beautifully covered with a profusion of large
rose-coloured blossoms, forming a contrast, by their brilliancy, to the
dull, uninteresting character of the vegetation around.
Several of the fern tribe were also abundant, either by the borders of
the rivulets, or strewed over the declivities and summits of the hills.
Among them was the _Gleichenia hermanni_, _Bluchnum_, _Polypodium_,
&c.; as well as a _Ficus_, bearing small red fruit, and other shrubs.
In the valleys, or any little irrigated spots, the cultivation of rice
was particularly attended to. The fruit of the _Melastoma_ (for several
of the shrubs were in fructification) yielded a dark bluish juice, on
which several coleopterous insects fed. Two water snakes were caught
upon the beach; one of a bright yellow over the head and neck, and of
slender form. Among other botanical specimens collected was a _Rhus_,
_Flemingia_, _Rosa_, _Malva_, _Cereopsis_, &c.
On the 1st of October I visited Macao. This ancient colony of the
Portuguese, in China, has a very picturesque and romantic aspect on
approaching it from the sea: it is situated upon a peninsula, and, from
bearing some resemblance to a mallet, has received the name Macao, which
in the Portuguese language signifies that instrument. The white houses,
rising one above the other; the high mountains in the back-ground, and
about it; the castle, and monasteries, perched on the elevated summits
of some of the hills; the numerous sacred edifices, elevating themselves
above the neighbouring houses, the most conspicuous objects in all Roman
Catholic countries,—all contribute to the beauty of this little city: it
seemed, both from the roadstead and on landing, a Portuguese town, to
which the taste and wealth of our native land had been added, not the
least cause of its neatness or beauty: it contains also very agreeable
society, both for residents and strangers.
The streets of Macao are very narrow: this, however, affords shelter
to the pedestrian from the fervent rays of the sun; they are likewise
ill-paved and very steep, the houses rising from the _Praya Grande_ on
one side, and the inner harbour on the other, terrace upon terrace,
and are constructed upon a very solid foundation of rock: the pavement
consists of smooth and rough stones, without any attention having been
given to their relative sizes; so that a person taking a short walk, may
often expect to return with a strained ancle.
The private residences of the Europeans are very convenient, spacious,
and more delightful for their interior accommodation, than for any
exterior beauty.
Many vessels have been sent to the east coast of China, by enterprising
merchants of Canton, to endeavour, if possible, to open a trade with
some of the Chinese ports on that coast. A highly-talented gentleman,
the Rev. C. Gutzlaff, with whom I had the gratification of forming an
acquaintance, has often accompanied the vessels; but the result has
been a very limited degree of success; the imbecility of the Chinese
government has been fully ascertained; and during the last voyage, edicts
were stuck about the village off which the vessel had anchored, stating
that the foreign vessel had been driven away, while she still remained at
anchor within sight of these very papers, endeavouring to carry on some
traffic with the inhabitants; but, from the fear of the mandarins, it was
effected but to a very limited extent. It is stated that the embassy of
Lord Amherst is still mentioned by the Chinese, who say that it was fully
expected, from the force he had with him, he would not have suffered
himself to be driven away, but would have obliged the Chinese government
to accede to any terms he chose to propose.
The gentleman I have before mentioned, the Rev. C. Gutzlaff, is well
acquainted with several dialects of the Chinese language, which he
speaks with such fluency, as to be, when disguised, taken for a Chinese:
he studies mankind, and endeavours to spread the Christian religion
in a truly missionary spirit, so as to conduce (which a pure religion
necessarily must do) to the happiness of the people: he also endeavours
to effect his benevolent purpose towards them, by distributing tracts
relating to the sciences of astronomy, geography, &c. written in the
Chinese language; endeavouring, by an admirable religious feeling of
benevolence, to promote the welfare of the people by spreading a purer
religion than they possess; at the same time cultivating their minds
in other branches of knowledge, enabling them to receive more vividly
the impressions of the divine Spirit. Would that all our missionaries
followed the same plan! how inestimable, then, should I consider their
cause!
The inner harbour of Macao is spacious, and capable of affording
anchorage to a large number of ships, safely sheltered from every gale;
but only twenty-five European vessels are permitted to anchor, and those
only which belong to the Spanish or Portuguese nations; excepting in
case of distress, when a ship of any other European power may require
immediate repairs; but even then there is much trouble and difficulty in
procuring the requisite permission: this proceeds from the usual jealousy
of the Chinese government towards Europeans. Nearly two centuries ago,
or perhaps more, permission was granted by the Chinese authorities for
twenty-five foreign vessels of the Portuguese and Spanish nations to
enter the harbour; and these are always regarded by this extraordinarily
blinded people to be the very identical vessels which had at that time
received the original indulgence from the imperial government.[13]
Fruit is neither particularly abundant nor excellent in this part of
China; the great variety of oranges may be regarded the best, as also the
elegant scarlet Lit, chi (_Dimocarpus litchi_). There is another fruit,
of which also there are several varieties—it is a _Diospyrus_,—(the
_Diospyrus Kaki_?[14]) or Chinese date plum. One of the varieties known
by the Chinese under the name of Ngnow, sum, tzee, or bull’s heart
Diospyrus—(Ngnow signifying bull; sum, heart; tzee, this particular
fruit, the Diospyrus)—resembles, in external appearance, a Tomata, except
in being of a larger size, and of a bright red colour: when divided, it
is found to contain a yellowish semi-transparent pulp, not unlike a plum
either in flavour or appearance, and contains several oblong brownish
seeds. The outer skin has an astringent property, which discolours the
steel of a knife when employed to divide the fruit, which is not at all
requisite for the purpose. The other kind is much smaller, oval, about
the size of a date; being similar to the former in colour; it is called
by the Chinese Kai, sum, tzee, or fowl’s heart Diospyrus: in taste it
closely resembles the mawkish sweetness of a ripe date. I had only an
opportunity of seeing two of the varieties of this fruit, but there are
several other kinds.[15] The flat peach, or “Peen to” (peen signifying
flat, and to, peach) of the Chinese, is a variety of the peach,
appearing, although in reality of a perfectly natural form, to have had
its flatness produced by artificial means. The blossoms of the tree are
double, but fertile. The fruit is described as being of an excellent
flavour.
The canes, so much valued, and sold usually at a high price, and known by
the name of the _Wang, hee_, (Wang signifying yellow, and hee, root,) are
said to be the root of the narrow-leaved bamboo, which grows abundantly
about Macao, forming very pretty hedges or inclosures: these are valuable
and rare, on account of the sufficiently straight descending roots being
difficult to procure; many trees must consequently be destroyed before
those particular roots of the requisite length and straightness can be
obtained. The roots of this bamboo are very troublesome when planted,
more especially in a garden, from spreading so far, and so much towards
the surface of the ground, as to tear up the paths, &c.
I visited, in company with Mr. Fearon, the Casa garden, in which is
situated the principal object of my visit—“Camoens’ Cave;” celebrated as
the spot where that distinguished poet wrote the poem of the Lusiad. It
is not correct to call it a _cave_—it is merely masses of granite rocks
piled one over the other in that extraordinary and romantic manner in
which that kind of rock is so often seen grouped; and this forms a kind
of archway, which has been denominated a cave. Delightfully surrounded by
umbrageous trees, and shrubs overhanging the rocks, the seclusion of the
spot might well have been chosen by one inclined to meditate and compose;
where all the objects around him would not fail to excite the poetical
imagination to a much higher degree than could possibly be effected in
the hurry and bustle of society. A summer-house has been erected upon
these granite masses.
Some beautiful Latin verses (which I hope to see engraved and placed
on the spot) have been written by J. Davies, Esq., who having kindly
favoured me with a copy, I with pleasure insert them.
IN CAVERNAM, UBI CAMOENS FERTUR CARMEN EGREGIUM COMPOSUISSE.
Hic, in remotis sol ubi rupibus
Frondes per altas molliùs incidit,
Fervebat in pulchram camænam
Ingenium Camöentis ardens:
Signum et Poëtæ marmore lucido
Spirabat olim, carminibus sacrum,
Parvumque, quod vivens amavit,
Effigie decorabat antrum:
Sed jam vetustas, aut manus impia
Prostravit, Eheu!—Triste Silentium
Regnare nunc solum videtur
Per scopulos, virides et umbras!
At fama nobis restat, at inclytum
Restat Poëtæ nomen, at ingenî
Stat carmen exemplum perenne
Ærea nec monumenta quærit!
Sic usque virtus vincit, ad ultimos
Perducta fines temporis, exitus
Spernens sepulchrorumque inane,
Marmoris ac celerem ruinam!
The Casa gardens, in which the _cave_ is situated, are extensive, and
have even now, in their neglected state, sufficient beauty to be regarded
as the most retired, romantic, and beautiful spot in Macao.