[Illustration: _From a Sketch by Chinnery._ _Pub: by R. Bentley, London,
1834._ _T. Clark, sc._
_Dutch & English portion of the European Factory at Canton._]
WANDERINGS
IN
NEW SOUTH WALES,
BATAVIA, PEDIR COAST, SINGAPORE,
AND CHINA;
BEING
THE JOURNAL OF A NATURALIST
IN THOSE COUNTRIES, DURING 1832, 1833, AND 1834.
BY
GEORGE BENNETT, ESQ. F.L.S.
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, &c.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
Publisher in Ordinary to his Majesty.
1834.
LONDON:
IBOTSON AND PALMER, SAVOY STREET, STRAND.
CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME.
CHAPTER I.
Pedir coast—Treaty with the Acheenese—Anarchy—Syed Hussain’s
claims—Trade in the Areka-nut—Visit to the Village of
Gingham—Negociation for the restoration of a Penang brig—An
amulet—Visit of the Rajahs to the Queen—Gingham—Trade of the
coast 1
CHAPTER II.
Arrive at Singapore, and sail for China—The Lemma Islands—Their
inhabitants—Boats—Hong Kong Islands—Dr. Abel’s visit to the
shore—A pilot’s surprise—Cap, Sing, Moon—Cum, Sing, Moon—Outlaw
ships—Trade in opium—Researches about the hills—Botanica
productions—Macao—Its streets—Vain endeavours to open a
trade with the Chinese ports—The Rev. C. Gutzlaff— Harbour
of Macao—Jealousy of the Chinese government—Fruit Wang, hee
canes—The Casa Garden—Cave of Camoens—Tributary verses to that
poet 16
CHAPTER III.
Museum at Macao—Mr. Beale’s splendid aviary and
gardens—The Paradise bird—Natural history of this splendid
creature—Anecdotes—Superb magpie—Loris—Description of the
aviary 35
CHAPTER IV.
Reeve’s pheasants—Golden pheasants—Silver pheasants—Blue
pigeons—Stabbed-breast pigeons—Widow birds—The horned
Tragopan—The mandarin teal—Conjugal fidelity—Nicobar
pigeons—Peacock pheasants—Pink cockatoo—The Ounderou monkey—A
Pitta—Mr. Beale’s gardens—Rare productions of the vegetable
kingdom—Native drawings—Extortionate custom 55
CHAPTER V.
Leave Macao for Whampoa—Entrance to the Bocca Tigris—Country
about Chuen, pee—Scene at Whampoa—Approach to Canton—The town
and suburbs—The sailor’s coffee-shop—Selling by weight—Dwarf
orange trees—The tea shrub—Visit to the celebrated Fa-tee
gardens—Topics of conversation—Exaggeration—Rambles in the
suburbs—The city gate—Manufactories—Sandal-wood 81
CHAPTER VI.
Visit to the Temple of Honan—Colossal figures—The
priesthood—Votive offerings—Mummery—Holy pigs—Their
corpulency—The hall of the factory—Duck-boats—Alabaster—Chinese
snake—Leave Canton and return to Macao—Visit the Lappa
Island—Hill-pines—Mass of granite rocks—Their sonorous
qualities—Tanka-boats—Chinese burial-grounds—Cassilhas
Bay—Manufacture of ropes—Portuguese ladies at Macao—Origin of
that name—Another temple near Macao 107
CHAPTER VII.
The Jesuits’ church and college of San José—The gardens—Sail
from Macao for Singapore—Pass Pedro Blanco—Island of
Singapore—The town—Treaty for the cession of the island
to the British—Hills—Salubrity of the settlement—European
burial-ground—Vicinity of the settlement—Government hill—Grand
prospect—Commercial prosperity—New roads 124
CHAPTER VIII.
Description of an Ungka ape—His habits—Anecdotes of him—His
death—Dissection 142
CHAPTER IX.
The Botanic Garden—The Croton tiglium—The true
Camphor-tree—The Malaleuca Kayu-puteh—Excursion into the
interior of the island—Botanical productions—Chinese farms
and plantations—Pepper harvest—Plantain-trees—Gambir
plantations—Boiling houses—Cultivation and preparation of
Gambir—Dense vegetation of the Jungles—Establishment of a
Chinese-planter 174
CHAPTER X.
Excursion further inland—Dense forest—An extensive
swamp—Parasitical plants—Fungi—The pitcher plant—Return to
Singapore—The wild pine-apple—Use of that plant—Manufactory
of pearl sago—Visit to the Rajah of Johore—Interview
with his Highness—Excursion to St. John’s Island—Pulo
Panjang—Impenetrable jungle—New Harbour—Agar-agar 202
CHAPTER XI.
Sail for England—Crowned Pigeons—Straits of Dryan—Banca
Straits—Zutphen Islands—Escape and re-capture of a crowned
pigeon—Death of one of those birds—Dissection—Pass the
Cape of Good Hope—Fine weather—The trumpet weed—Volcanic
rocks—St. Helena—Buttermilk Point—James’s Town—Ficus
Religiosa—Over-population of James’s Town—Visit to the late
residence of Napoleon 228
CHAPTER XII.
Tomb of Napoleon—The willows—Contrasted feelings of the French
and English visitors to Buonaparte’s grave—Fish—Sail from St.
Helena—Island of Ascension—Frigate birds—Shark, Sucking, and
Pilot Fish—The Sargasso weed—Condition of the Crowned pigeons—A
swallow captured during migration—Temperature—Arrival at
Gravesend 246
APPENDIX.
Cocoa-nut tree 295
Morbid Appetite in Sheep 343
The Albatross 357
Notes on the Plantain and Banana Tree 399
The Inhabitant of the Nautilus Pompilius 406
On the habits of the Viverra Mussunga, or Java Cat 412
Luminosity of the Ocean 421
Treaty between the British and Acheenese governments 424
_Page 243, line 19_, after island, _insert_ with passengers of the French
nation.
WANDERINGS, _&c._
CHAPTER I.
Pedir coast—Treaty with the Acheenese—Anarchy—Syed Hussain’s
claims—Trade in the Areka-nut—Visit to the Village of
Gingham—Negociation for the restoration of a Penang brig—An
amulet—Visit of the Rajahs to the Queen—Gingham—Trade of the
coast.
It is stated, that during the life of the former rajah, Pedir was not
a tributary district to the territory of Acheen, but commanded the
whole line of coast to the eastward, and from that circumstance the
Betel-nut coast, which extends to the eastward, and not to the westward
of Pedir, received the name of the Pedir coast: the old rajah was also
very expeditious in loading ships, and took the goods in barter from the
traffickers at the fixed price, unless they were rated extravagantly
high.
I had an opportunity of obtaining a copy of the treaty made with the
Acheenese, by Sir Stamford Raffles, and ratified by the Marquis of
Hastings, then Governor-General of India: it was executed at a village
near Pedir, which was pointed out to me from the roadstead, the rajah
of Acheen being at that time obliged to reside there, from political
circumstances. I annex a copy of the treaty,[1] the origin of which is
stated in the “Life and Public Services of Sir Stamford Raffles,” by
his widow. (4to. 1830, pp. 396, 397.) And in a letter from Sir Stamford
to Sir Robert Harry Inglis, he says the Acheen country “at one period
attracted more attention in Europe than most eastern countries, but which
has long declined in importance.” “For the last four years, (1819,)
the country of Acheen had been a prey to disorder and anarchy. A rich
merchant of Penang, Syed Hussain, patronized by the late Mr. Petrie,
taking advantage of the unsettled state of the capital, set up claims
to the sovereignty; and, having expended an immense sum in briberies
and corruption, contrived, by means of his superior naval force, and
the advantage of equipping his vessels from Penang, to command the
trade of the Acheenese ports, and to invest one of his sons with the
title of sultan. The Penang government, taking part with this side of
the question, strongly recommended the support of it by the supreme
government, and a force of a thousand men was actually applied for,
with proper equipments, in order to establish the newly-created king
thoroughly on his throne. Captain Coombs, a protégé of Mr. Petrie’s,
and who had been employed as the agent of the Penang government, was in
Bengal at the time of my arrival, and Lord Hastings asked my opinion. I
had no hesitation in giving it, as far as it was then formed; and the
supreme government was induced to pause. I was subsequently joined in a
commission with Captain Coombs, for the purpose of finally adjusting the
question.
“After my arrival at Penang, I was informed that Colonel Bannerman had
protested against my interference at Acheen, and had written in such
terms to the supreme government, that it was incumbent on me to await
the answer. I complied with this request; and while the question was
pending, proceeded to this place, (Singapore,) effected my object, and
returned to Penang in time to receive the further instructions of the
supreme government. These only tended to confirm what I had formerly
received, and Captain Coombs and myself accordingly proceeded to Acheen.
We remained there nearly seven weeks; during the early portion of which,
we were directly opposed in our politics; but at length, after a paper
war, which actually occupies above a thousand pages of the Company’s
largest sized paper, he came round to my opinion, and was satisfied,
that in justice and honour, there was but one course to pursue, namely,
supporting the cause of the legitimate sovereign. The spurious claims
set up by Syed Hussain were proved to be unfounded, and it was clear he
had grossly deceived our government. We therefore concluded a treaty,
and effected all the objects we required, namely, the right of having a
resident and establishment at Acheen, and to exclude all foreign European
nations from having a fixed habitation. All that we had then to do, was
to require the governor of Penang to restrict Syed Hussain from further
interference, and troops and equipments of course became unnecessary.
“I never had a more disagreeable duty, and consequently was highly
satisfied to bring our mission to so desirable a conclusion. It was an
object of great importance to take the right side of the question;
and had our government been once committed on the other, and troops
introduced, we should soon have been so deeply involved, that a worse
than Candian war might have been apprehended. In a country like Acheen,
by military operations, we had every thing to lose, and nothing to gain.”
It was discovered, when too late, by the supercargo, that the village of
Pedir was the worst place on the coast to procure either a quick dispatch
or a cheap cargo of the Areka-nut; for the rajah is obliged to treat
with merchants, to supply the ship with the requisite quantity which has
been agreed upon: the other European vessels had anchored at the village
of “Gingham,” about eight or nine miles further to the eastward. At
this place, the contracts are made with merchants, not with the rajah;
and the merchants pay the rajah his dues. It is always best to contract
with the merchants, who can supply it at a quicker and cheaper rate than
the rajahs, who must themselves apply at last to the merchants; and the
payment proceeding through the hands of the rajah, or his ministers, the
latter take care that some remains behind for their special use; and, at
the termination of the affair, the buyer will find that he is the loser,
not the seller. Sawang, Tellisomoy, and other places on the coast,
abound also in the Betel-nut.[2]
Another error which was fallen into by not being acquainted with the
custom of the place, was purchasing the nut by the pecul instead of the
_laxar_, by which much loss is sustained by the buyer. The luxur or laxar
is in weight one pecul and thirty-five-hundredths of a pecul: it consists
of ten thousand nuts, and from ten to twenty-five per cent., according to
the bargain previously made, is given over, for nuts which may be rotten
or otherwise damaged.
Several vessels, the Eleanor, Helen, Dania, (Denmark ship,) and Peru,
were lying in Gingham roads, for cargoes of Areka-nut. I took an
opportunity of visiting the village of Gingham, proceeding thither in
the ship’s boat. The coast to the eastward still maintained the same
picturesque character as about Pedir, except perhaps in some parts where
it was more densely wooded with cocoa-nut and other trees close to the
beach. We passed a cluster of palm-leaved thatched, bamboo huts, which
was the village of Ilbu. The village of Gingham was not visible from
the roadstead, being situated a short distance up a river, and hidden by
the dense foliage of various kinds of trees growing about it. A short
distance further to the eastward, a cluster of habitations formed the
village of Buron; and Sawang (or, as called by the Malays, Putukurra) is
several miles still further in the same direction.
I have before mentioned, that a Penang brig had been seized by the
Acheenese grab, the Nacodar (or master) of which, having been accused of
trading in arms and ammunition, with one of the rajahs upon the coast,
at present at war with the ruler of Acheen: many of the commanders of
vessels then on the coast were desirous of getting, if possible, the
vessel returned. She was the property of several native merchants at
Penang, and had been chartered by an English merchant there for the Pedir
coast, first calling at the Maldive islands for a cargo of dried fish.
A brother of the Acheenese rajah, named Pungarang Ibrahim, a fine and
handsome Malay, was on board the grab; and to him application was made
for the restoration of the vessel. He had a very intelligent Malabar
native as an interpreter, who spoke several European languages—English,
French, Spanish, &c.—fluently. The question, whether or not the
vessel was a legal prize to the Acheenese government, was discussed by
the native party with considerable force and eloquence. The Nacodar
was accused of having disposed of arms and ammunition, under British
colours, to the rajah mudar of Sambalangang, against the treaty concluded
between the British and Acheenese governments, the rajah of Sambalangang
being at war with the king of Acheen; and one of the articles of the
treaty states, that any British vessel supplying an enemy of the rajah
of Acheen with arms and ammunition, is liable to confiscation; and
upon this article of the treaty, it was contended that the brig was
a legal capture. The Pungarang[3] Ibrahim then produced the original
treaty, written in the Malay and English languages, duly signed by the
governor-general of India, Sir Stamford Raffles, and Captain Coombs.
The Nacodar stated, in his defence, that he having given, and not sold,
the arms and ammunition in question, the brig was not liable to the
consequences of a breach of the treaty. The discussion concluded by the
rajah declaring, that if the commanders would return in one or two hours,
they should receive his final decision, as he would consult the old
queen, who has much power, upon the subject. When the commanders returned
on board the grab, the queen was present, who was a fine old lady, and
received her European visitors in a very cordial manner. The subject
relative to the vessel was then renewed: they were anxious to procure
the nacodar, (who had sought refuge on board one of the ships,) and take
him to Acheen, where, most probably, his life would be sacrificed; or
the rajah offered to send him to Penang, in irons, to be tried by the
authorities at that place, if any commanders of the vessels going to that
port would take charge of him.
In the renewed discussion of the subject, the justice of the case
appeared decidedly in favour of the rajah’s party, as it was now
ascertained that a shot had been fired from the brig, which had killed a
man on board the grab.
The rajah summed up his final decision to the following effect, through
the medium of an interpreter:—“Let the native Nacodar be sent on board
my vessel; I will not injure him; I will make a solemn engagement with
you to that effect; but I intend sending him to the settlement of Penang
in chains, there to be dealt with as the judges at that settlement may
determine: if the man has not done wrong, why is he afraid to come on
board? here are plenty of Europeans.” And thus concluded an address
replete with excellent sense and sound discrimination—“I appeal to your
English laws whether I have not decided justly, and according to the
treaty solemnly ratified between the Sri Sultan Alla, Iddeen Jowhara,
Allum, Shah, Sultan of Acheen, and the British government?”
One of the commanders, who afterwards asked the rajah to give up
the vessel as a matter of courtesy, received the following sensible
reply—“Would one of your men-of-war surrender a prize which had been
proved a legal capture?” He then added, that the vessel should be taken
to Acheen, and when there, if found by his brother, the rajah of Acheen,
to be illegally seized, she should be returned forthwith to Penang, and
the owners indemnified for her detention, and any damage she might have
sustained while in their possession.[4]
The rajah is a fine and handsome young man, of very pleasing manners,
and an intelligent countenance; his face was full, broad, and had the
true Malay characteristics; he had upon his left arm a large seal, or
amulet, of about two inches in diameter, upon the stone of which (called
“Pungli” by the Malays) a sentence of the Koran was engraved; he said
it was intended as a charm against his being injured; “so the Acheenese
believe,” he added, but did not appear to place much faith himself in its
supposed powers.
The different rajahs came on an appointed day from the different
districts in the vicinity, to Pedir, to pay their respects to the old
queen previous to her departing to Acheen in one of the men-of-war, which
she did on the evening of the 20th of July, accompanied by the whole of
the Acheenese fleet.
Accompanied by Captain M’Alister, I visited the village of “Gingham.”
At the entrance of the river, a bar, (similar to, I believe, the whole
of the rivers upon this coast,) on which usually rolls a heavy surf,
rendering its entrance somewhat dangerous for boats; the river maintained
a very winding course even to the village: a number of shrubs abounded
in the water, and about the banks, among which were the _Acanthus
ilicifolia_, and several others. The village of Gingham is situated
about a mile distant from the entrance of the river; the thatched-houses,
of which it is composed, were partially concealed by the graceful and
elegant Bamboo, Eju, Cocoa, and Areka palms. Having landed and ranged
about the village, I made inquiry of the native merchants, who were
the Moormen of Hindostan, many of whom had been born in India, and
others on the coast, respecting the trade of the place, which consists
exclusively of the Betel-nut; they informed me that they contracted with
the supercargoes of vessels[5] visiting the coast, paying to the rajah
a certain tribute. The export is from forty to sixty thousand peculs
annually, during the months of May, June, July, and some part of August.
The total amount collected upon the coast, the greatest portion of which
grows some distance inland, is computed at or about eighty or ninety
thousand peculs.
The number of vessels, of all classes, freighted every year upon this
coast during the season, varies, and depends a great deal upon their
size; sometimes forty of all classes had been loaded, but when a large
Bombay Indiaman comes and takes ten thousand peculs at one time, of
course it occasions a scarcity for the smaller ones; in this case,
therefore, although the number of vessels loaded is not so great, the
quantity exported is pretty nearly the same.[6]
The cargo sent on board the ship in which I visited Pedir, came not
from the Pedir district alone, but was brought (by contracts entered
into by the rajah of Pedir, with the native merchants of those places)
from Gingham, Sawang, &c., and of course at an increased price. I made
inquiry, if a ship was brought next month, (August,) whether they could
load her with Areka-nut, and what period of time they would take to
deliver six thousand peculs on board. The reply was, that at this season
a greater scarcity of nut prevailed than usual, on account of internal
wars drawing away the men, and causing a scarcity of hands to collect and
shell it; my informant, therefore, would not engage to deliver any next
month, but the following May would engage to supply the quantity of six
thousand peculs in a week, receiving dollars, cambrics, long cloths,
opium, iron, &c., in exchange, and delivering the Areka-nut at one dollar
the pecul; however, much depends on the agreement of price between the
contracting parties at the time, and the greater or less demand for the
European and other goods brought into the market.
There was an abundant supply of fish in the fish-market at Gingham,
consisting of very large specimens of Acanthurus, or lancet-fish,
Chœtodons, Cyprinus, several species of the Perch tribe, the Barracouta,
Shark, as well as a number of others, varying in form, size, and colour;
and it appeared from the collection exhibited, that abundance was taken
upon the coast.
On the evening of the 23d of July, we sailed from “Pedir,” bound for
Singapore and China, having six thousand and eight peculs of Areka-nut on
board. The cargo was purchased for five thousand four hundred and forty
Spanish dollars, forty peculs of iron, thirty kits of Swedish steel,
thirty peculs of lead, and three chests of opium. Upon the iron a profit
was gained upon the invoice prices of 77½ per cent.; upon the lead, 81½
per cent.; and upon the steel, 48 per cent. Upon the opium there was,
as I have before mentioned, but very little profit; indeed, the price
of a dollar and a-half per pecul was too high for this article; but,
unfortunately, the speculation originated at Batavia, and being the first
ship chartered for the purpose from thence, the parties were consequently
ignorant of the people and country, and of the kind of merchandize most
advantageous for barter. From the number of ships requiring nut at the
same time, payment in dollars, and at an advanced price, is sometimes the
only means of procuring a cargo, unless the vessel remained so long as to
be ruinous to the speculators.[7]