CHAPTER XX

An unreliable guide — Relief — Typical scenery — Game in

the “oueds” — A dreary scene — The effect of the sun — A

breakdown — Kidal — Reorganization — A veiled people — The

Iforas — Tuaregs and Iforas — Iforas as camel-masters — Adrar

— I abandon my bath — The value of dates — French couriers

— A solitary post — Relics of the Stone Age — Relics of

former nations.

OWING to the heat and the fine particles of sand constantly flying

in the air, Sidi Mahomed, the Arab guide, became much troubled with

his eyes, developing a kind of ophthalmia. I had then to depend

entirely on the Tuareg guide, and it was soon evident that he was

not very reliable. We were marching towards the wells of Tinderan,

and on the afternoon of the 30th of April we should have arrived

there. Time went on, and it began to get dark, while there were

still no signs of the wells. On being interrogated, the guide,

with customary vagueness, said it was only a short way off, and we

should soon be at Tinderan. There was no moon that night, and I soon

perceived the ground was becoming very rough; the camels began to

stumble into holes and over boulders, until it seemed hazardous to

proceed for fear that one would break his leg. It seemed to me that

the guide had lost his way. I decided, however, not to interfere

with him, as it is a principle in the desert not to harry the

guide with questions, since it only flurries him. One is perforce

dependent absolutely on one’s guide, so it is the best policy to

rely thoroughly on him and leave him alone if he seems puzzled.

As the stars became brighter in the heavens I noticed that we had

altered our course from east-north-east to south-east, and gradually

we began to turn still further south. There was then no doubt that

the Tuareg had lost himself. I halted the caravan, proceeding to

question him. He denied that he had lost the way, protesting that

we were quite close to Tinderan. However, it was palpable that he

must have missed his direction, so without further listening to

his protests I camped where we were for the night, sending him off

to find the right way, and telling him not to return till he had

so done. Anyhow, it was fairly evident that he did not understand

how to march by the stars, for we had turned nearly through an

angle of 180 degrees, and were now with our backs to the direction

in which I knew Tinderan must lie. Should he not succeed in soon

finding the wells the position threatened to become serious, for

we had nearly exhausted the supply of water on the camels. It was

two days’ march back to the last well, whither we must return

should the worst come to the worst, and the strictest economy with

our water would not make it suffice for that time. I resolved to

keep the water intact till to-morrow anyhow, and see what news the

dawn would bring. So that night we went to bed thirsty. Eventually

it was not till late the following afternoon that we arrived at

Tinderan, weary and parched. We had been nearly eight miles out of

the true direction, it appeared, the previous night. The general

sense of relief, and the men’s joy at the sight of the wells,

are not easily described. We had practically no water remaining

in the water-skins, and what there was had a disgusting stagnant

taste. The sun had been overpoweringly hot, for we had been forced

to march through the heat of the day, and the sense of mistrust

in our guide was universal. What feelings of relief and comfort

did not these wells conjure up! Tinderan meant water to drink,

a good rest for weary limbs, food and sleep, and for myself, also

the delights of a wash once more!

[Illustration: MY KITCHEN IN THE DESERT

In the foreground is my servant, Musa, cooking my breakfast. At this

spot we were so fortunate as to find some stunted mimosas, so that,

with the aid of a rug thrown over some branches, I was able to rig

up a little shelter against the blazing rays of the Saharan sun.]

To the ordinary observer, it is true, Tinderan was hardly an

attractive-looking place. It lay in the midst of typical Saharan

scenery. Wastes of yellowish white sand surrounded it on all sides.

Besides the wells there was, of course, nothing else at Tinderan,

for that was simply the name of the wells. There were some half-dozen

of them, consisting merely of holes excavated in the sand, and not

discernible until one actually walked up to them. But to the desert

traveller, tired and thirsty, the surroundings mattered little;

the chief point, and the only point, was that here was water and

plenty of it. For the time being all hardships are forgotten and

joy reigns supreme.

On our march to Tinderan we had finally left the “Oued Telemsi,”

the dried-up watercourse along which we had been travelling since

leaving the Niger, and were now on the northern confines of the

Kountah Arabs’ country. Just before quitting the Telemsi we

had crossed two other “oueds,” called Northern and Southern

Eguerrer respectively. These are big shallow valleys, and must at

one time have been two large streams which united south of Tinderan

to form the River Telemsi. I saw several herds of Loder’s gazelle

in these “oueds,” and shot three of them just before dusk. We

had not had any meat for some days, so they were a welcome addition

to our larder. It was not till the following day that I again saw

some White Oryx (_Oryx leucoryx_). These fine antelope are extremely

local in this part of the Sahara. I generally saw them in a locality

where there was rocky ground as well as sand. A favourite spot for

these animals would be a sandy “oued” with “cram-cram”

grass growing in its bed, and on each side barren, rocky hills.

They appear to care little for shade, feeding in the early morning

in the “oued” and retiring to the rocky, shadeless hills during

the heat of the day. They invariably seemed to be well-fed and in

good condition, and one cannot help marvelling at the sustenance

they seem to get out of such a poor-looking diet. The white oryx

is a dangerous animal to approach if wounded, for he can inflict

terrible wounds with his sharp, spear-like horns on anyone who is

so unwary as to come within reach of them.

On the 1st of May we passed a piece of desert rather different

from anything I had yet seen. For several miles there were clumps

of dead mimosa shrubs, the soil was sand, and the terrain here was

very flat. The appearance of the scene was most dreary; it seemed as

if this had once been a comparatively fertile spot for the Sahara,

when all of a sudden the blight of the desert must have descended

upon it, mercilessly killing every bit of living vegetation. The

guides informed me that there had been no rain there for five years,

hence the destruction of the mimosas. Although rain in the Sahara

is rare, still there are not many places which are not favoured

with a shower, or perhaps two, every year or every other year, and

it is marvellous how this infinitesimal quantity of moisture will

put new life into Saharan vegetation, making new plants spring up

in a very short time. It is fortunate that this is so, for otherwise

even the camel could not exist in the desert.

On the 3rd of May we saw in front of us a rocky barrier of

mountains, which seemed to block the horizon to the north. These

were the Mountains of Adrar, and we were approaching the Adrar

Plateau, upon which was situated the post of Kidal. All the way

from the Niger we had been gradually rising towards this plateau,

which forms a tableland at an elevation of about 2500 feet in the

south of the Central Sahara. The next two days were the hottest we

experienced. The way lay over burning granite rocks, rough boulders

obstructed our route at every step, while the sun beat down with

pitiless vigour on our heads. Path, of course, there was none. In

the desert such a thing as a path is unknown; each caravan seeks

its own road. Every guide has his own landmarks to help him, but

two caravans, both destined for the same well and starting from

the same place, might easily pass each other _en route_ without

being in view. The average temperature during those two days was

116 degrees in the shade; our throats were parched, our feet were

burnt, and the glare from the blazing sun was intolerable. Up to

this point I had not adopted sun-spectacles, but now I was forced

to do so. I had taken the precaution to bring three pairs with me,

and the relief to the straining eyes was inexpressible. The chief

objection to them is that they make one’s face perspire to an

uncomfortable degree, and when they are removed it is difficult to

see in the strong sunlight for some minutes.

Until now I had flattered myself that I was fairly well hardened to

the African sun, for I had travelled through the tropical heat, in

the hottest season, during the past three months, with my sleeves

rolled up to the elbow and knickers cut short at the knee. Now,

however, I found that my skin was as tender as a child’s against

the fierce rays of the Sahara sun. My face, arms, and knees got

terribly burnt and swollen. I suffered tortures every time I

touched them or bathed them. The skin came off, and I must have

looked a very peculiar object. Even the natives’ hard feet became

fearfully blistered and swollen by the burning heat of the rocks.

Raids on the water-skins during the march were frequently attempted,

and I had to give the N.C.O. of my escort the strictest orders

to keep the men from the water. If they had been allowed to drink

all they wished the water supply would soon have been exhausted,

and it is always a sound principle to arrive at a well with some

water in your water-skins, for it is never certain in the desert

that the wells will not be found dry.

Halting in the middle of the day was the time everyone disliked most,

for the heat of those rocks and the lack of any shade were truly

appalling. However, a halt was absolutely necessary for several hours

during the day in order to give the camels a rest, so I used to stop

at some “oued” where there was some parched-up “cram-cram”

for them to feed on. As it was, two of the camels fell down during

the march on the 4th, refusing to get up. They were exhausted

by the heat. I relieved them of their loads, leaving the guide,

Sidi Mahomed, to look after them, and bidding him follow as soon

as they had rested. Those two camels died before reaching Kidal,

and the only wonder was that we did not lose more.

A sandstorm was blowing when we arrived at Kidal on the 5th of May,

about 10 p.m. I shall not easily forget my sensation of joy at again

beholding a European’s face after the past twelve days in the

desert. What a pleasant spot Kidal seemed! Here there were actually

two houses, or huts to be more accurate, built of mud. Further,

there were about a dozen date palms surrounding the little post.

The spectacle of real trees and real green leaves once more was

most refreshing. Then, one need no longer stint oneself for water.

How I revelled in a bath that evening! The water at Kidal was

beautifully pure, not like some of the disgusting liquid we had

been obliged to drink on the way. Almost the strangest thing was

that I had been only twelve days on my journey. It seemed as if I

had spent a lifetime already in the Sahara, so new and varied were

many of the experiences I had undergone. The little hut allotted to

me was very hot, but the relief at being in the shade, and being

able to discard my helmet during the day, was great. Besides, it

was cooler at Kidal. The soil was sandy and those burning granite

rocks were farther away.

[Illustration: THE SERGEANT OF TIRAILLEURS IN CHARGE OF MY ESCORT,

AND MY TWO GUIDES TO KIDAL

Three distinct types are here depicted. On the left a white-bearded

Arab of the Kountah tribe, whose handsome face and picturesque garb

make him a fascinating figure. In the centre is the sergeant of

my escort, a stalwart Bambarra with the distinctive thick lips and

snub features of the negroid races. The third man is a Tuareg, one

of that curious tribe which wanders in the Central Sahara, shunning

contact with the rest of mankind to an extraordinary degree.]

I did not leave Kidal till the 8th of May. I had to reorganize my

caravan here. The officer in charge of the post had fortunately

been able to retain the services of a guide for me, and the same

man was willing to let me his camels if we could agree as to terms.

The day after my arrival I had an interview with Mohamed Ben Kaid

Kaddour, as the guide was called. He was an Arab trader who did

business between Insalah and the Adrar country. He had not intended

to return to Insalah till the cool season commenced, about September,

but owing to some urgent private affairs he had just been recalled

to the northern part of the desert. The man was a shrewd Arab,

about thirty years old, a keen trader, and with the reputation of

being a sure guide in the desert. The opportunity was a good one,

so I decided to take it at any cost, for, owing to the time of

year—it being the hottest part of the hot season—no caravans

were travelling, and I should be extremely unlikely to get another

guide to take me.

After a good deal of bargaining matters were settled. I hired four

baggage camels and one “mehari,” or riding-camel, from Mohamed,

who agreed to furnish one camel driver for the party and guide me

safely across the desert to Insalah for a sum amounting to about

twenty-three pounds. I naturally stipulated that he should not be

paid until the end of the journey. It seemed to me a good plan to

hire the camels from the man who would act as guide, for in this

way he had more interest in keeping them in good condition. It

was to his advantage to get them fit to Insalah, but certainly I

was rather in the hands of my guide should he prove unscrupulous.

If he wished to make away with me _en route_, and abscond with my

despatch box and baggage, it might be hard for me to prevent it,

and it would be difficult for the authorities to catch him and

punish him for his crime. However, I was determined to be very wary,

always sleeping with one eye open and my firearms close beside me.

The other member of the caravan was my servant Musa, while the

guide asked permission to bring four camel loads of merchandise

and a young camel he wished to sell at Insalah.

At Kidal I saw some of the finest camels I had yet seen; these

belonged to the detachment stationed at the post, and had been

bought from the Ifora Tuaregs. These people breed a very fine class

of “mehari,” their riding-camels being renowned for their power

and endurance throughout the Central and Western Sahara. The Iforas

are the Tuaregs who wander in the Adrar country, and it was at Kidal

that I first came into contact with this interesting race of nomads.

The chief peculiarity of these people is that they always wear

a veil over the lower portion of their faces, which conceals all

the features except the eyes, and sometimes the ears. This veil is

made of blue stuff, generally of the well-known “guinée.” It

is called a “litham.” The use of a “litham” is obvious to

anyone who has travelled in the desert, for it serves to prevent

the wearer from being choked by the clouds of sand which are ever

blowing about in the Sahara. Moreover, it prevents thirst to a

remarkable extent. It is a most essential article of kit for the

desert traveller, and I soon found myself obliged to adopt it. I

often used to think that my appearance in a civilized country

would have caused some astonishment and, probably, not a little

merriment. My face was so swathed in strange objects that very

little of it was visible. I think I might fairly have beaten a

motorist in the strange disguises on my features. My eyes were

hidden beneath huge blue sun-glasses, while the remainder of my

face was entirely obscured by the “litham,” which, in my case,

generally consisted of a handkerchief. I found the same objection

existed to the “litham” as to the glasses, but that was quite

a minor discomfort, and one very soon forgotten.

The Iforas share the usual dislike of the Tuareg to contact with

mankind, and with Europeans in particular. They possess an unenviable

reputation as first-class looters and highwaymen. A weakly guarded

caravan passing through certain parts of Adrar runs a very good

chance of being attacked and looted. But in this respect the Iforas

are by no means the worst offenders amongst desert tribes. They

are said to be plucky in war, but will avoid fighting when possible.

They are intensely jealous for their womenfolk, and are stated to

be ready to die to a man rather than allow their wives and female

relatives to be harmed. The Iforas have two distinct classes—the

Ihaggareen, who are the nobles and govern the various clans into

which the tribe is split, and the Imrads, or middle class. All

menial work is done by slaves, called “beylas.” These slaves

have been captured at various times from various negro tribes during

Tuareg incursions into the Niger country, or else when a caravan

has been plundered.

Iforas are armed with spears, swords, and shields. They dislike

a rifle, and seem to regard it with a strange mixture of contempt

and fear. The swords are of two kinds: one is a cutting sword worn

at the side, and the other, called a “tellak,” is about twelve

inches long, resembling a dagger, and is worn on a leather band on

the left forearm, just below the elbow.

The shields are about six feet high, made of bullock or sheep hide,

and are sometimes rather picturesquely painted with strange devices

on the middle of the front face.

Tuaregs live in encampments, their tents being made of a number of

goatskins sewn together. Or they may erect temporary shelters made

with bits of mimosa branches, over which is stretched a cloth.

It is extraordinary the number of people that one of the tiny

shelters will accommodate. A family of father, mother, and four

children will in some marvellous fashion find space in one about

fifteen feet long by ten feet wide, while the height of the structure

is not more than four feet.

Tuaregs are rather a handsome race, and the Iforas are not behind

their fellow-tribesmen in this respect. They are usually tall

and slimly built, but very wiry. They have well-cut features,

blue eyes, and a pale complexion. The language is guttural, not

bearing any resemblance to Arabic, which is spoken on the north,

or the Niger languages on the south. The origin of these people is

shrouded in mystery. Tradition says that one of the Tuareg tribes,

probably the Ouilliminden, who are nomads in the Sahara on the east

of the Ifora, came about the seventeenth century from the Erg-Iguidi,

a tract of desert in the north of the Sahara, under the leadership

of their chief, Kari Dena, in search of adventures. The date appears

to correspond with the time they conquered the Sonrhais and invaded

the Niger provinces near Timbuctu, but it is difficult to establish

the authenticity of this legend, for the people are extremely

reticent about themselves, and it is doubtful if they know much of

their past history. In any case, it seems probable that before they

became desert wanderers, they lived in the northern part of Africa,

and were probably conquered and expelled from their country by the

Arabs, being thus induced to seek a fresh home in the south. After

their stronghold, Timbuctu, was finally wrested from them, they

migrated more than ever to the desert, hence their poverty and

dislike for close acquaintanceship with mankind.

Iforas are wonderful camel-masters. They understand more about

these animals than anyone in the Southern Sahara. Besides, they

can identify a camel in a most accurate manner by observing his

tracks in the sand. I have known cases of a Tuareg, on observing

the tracks of several camels at a well, stating that such a one was

the track of such and such a man of his tribe, and that he had been

there three days before our arrival. On verification, all these

details proved to be exact. Iforas are not often at fault in the

matter of tracking by the marks of camels’ feet in the sand. They

will tell you, correct almost to a man, how many a certain caravan

numbered; and when it is recollected that camels usually follow

each other in single file, it will be understood that this is no

easy matter. Besides, the terrain is often hard, so that to the

casual observer there are no tracks whatever discernible.

[Illustration: MÉHARISTE CAMELS OUT AT THEIR PASTURAGE NEAR KIDAL

The vegetation in the illustration is typical of that found in the

Oueds of Eastern Adrar. It is strange how even these arid-looking

grasses can exist in the Sahara, but Adrar is fortunate in getting

several tornadoes annually and is consequently richer in vegetation

than other parts of this desert. In this pasturage there were some

seventy or eighty camels wandering in complete liberty, scattered

over some ten square miles resting and putting on flesh after some

arduous months’ marching this troop had recently performed in

the desert.]

The Iforas own large flocks of sheep and goats. Some of the former

are fine animals when the difficulties of grazing are taken into

consideration. These Tuaregs take great pride in their flocks,

and the principal trade between them and other tribes of the

Sahara consists in sheep. Their movements are entirely dictated

by the state of the grazing in the “oueds” for their camels

and sheep. Sometimes I have noticed a Tuareg encampment as much as

seven miles from the nearest well. The encampment is made here on

account of good grazing being available. The fact of having to go

seven miles to the well and seven miles back for his water has no

importance for the Ifora. He drinks little himself, while his sheep

are driven to the well every third day to water, and at the same

time water-skins are filled and brought into camp on camels. The

state of most wells in the Ifora country is for this reason often

disgusting. The flocks, when being watered, are allowed to foul

the wells, so that, for a couple of days after their visit, the

contents are almost undrinkable.

This country, which is really the Eastern Adrar, is generally

known as the Adrar of the Iforas, to differentiate between it and

Western Adrar, a country in south-west Mauretania, and Adrar Oasis

in the Northern Sahara. The word Adrar merely means mountain in

the language of the Tuareg.

The plateau of Adrar is about 200 miles long and seventy wide.

It consists generally of rocky hills running in parallel ranges from

north to south. In certain parts the granite rock has been split

up by the action of the heat, leaving isolated jagged crags which

stick up in fantastic shapes. The valleys between these hills usually

possess pasturage for camels and sheep, for Adrar of the Iforas is

on the whole a well-watered country; that is to say, it boasts of

periodical rains, which consist of some six or seven tornadoes in

the year. The Iforas for this reason are more fortunate than many

nomad tribes of the desert, who have to seek much farther afield

for a change in their grazing-lands. The valleys in which are found

the “oueds” are generally sandy bottomed, in sharp contrast to

the rest of the country, which is rocky. Roughly speaking, such

was the nature of the country through which I was going to march

for the first portion of the way to Insalah.

At Kidal I at last resigned myself to parting with my travelling

bath. It was a great wrench to have to discard this luxury, but I

had, by bitter experience, found out that it was not a practical

article in the Sahara. On the way from Gao I had only on two

occasions been able to indulge in the joys of a tub, owing to the

scarcity of water in most of the wells. Moreover, the bath was a

most cumbersome load on a camel, and more than once had it suffered

a severe fall, when some infuriated beast had managed to rid himself

of this troublesome piece of baggage by dint of repeatedly rubbing

against his companions, while kicking and wriggling at the same

time. The net result of all this was not only damage to the bath,

but probably a sore back for the animal. So I presented the bath

to my host as a slight return for his hospitality to me.

At Kidal I managed to buy a sackful of dates from an Arab

trader who was doing a little business with the soldiers of the

detachment. These dates were invaluable on the march. They are very

portable and nourishing, although hardly appetizing. Indeed, I ate

so many dates in the Sahara, and generally dates of the coarsest

quality, that I hate the sight of a date to this day. My dates were

packed together in a bag, crushed in a solid, consistent mass. They

were so hard that many required a hammer to break them. I found the

best plan, when there was not time to cook them, or no water, was to

simply suck one at a time. If I tried to bite one it might easily

break my teeth, so I gave up trying. In any case I was very glad

to be able to buy dates here, for my stock of provisions, except

the “couscous” and rice, was growing beautifully but rapidly

less. Of “couscous” and rice I had plenty, but I had not yet got

to the stage of being content with only these simple forms of food.

Before starting on the second stage of my desert journey I had

thoroughly to overhaul my pack-saddles and the gear appertaining

thereto. I had now gained some experience of the Sahara, and

knew better the parts of equipment that were most likely to get

strained. I also took the precaution to have a large reserve of

ropes, girths, and such-like articles. My water-carriers were nearly

all in bad need of repair, and this was a point requiring careful

attention. A good reserve of these water-skins was essential.

The French have now a courier who goes at stated times from Kidal to

Insalah and back. The next courier was to take word of my approach to

the Commandant at Insalah, so that he might expect my arrival about

the beginning or middle of June. This courier is a Tuareg, who has

been procured with some difficulty to carry out this service. He

travels alone, for it has been found that he is less likely to be

interfered with if he does so. His mount is a swift-trotting camel,

and in the dry season he has a spare mount as well. I was informed

that the mails were rarely looted, as, of course, there is nothing

of any value to a desert highwayman in a mail bag. His efforts would

be more likely to be directed to stealing the camel than the mails,

but one individual well mounted has a good chance of escaping in

such a case.

The mail man followed a different line of wells from my proposed

route, so I was unlikely to see him on the way.

On leaving Kidal I dare say my host pitied me at having such a long,

lonely journey in front of me. For my part I could not help pitying

him far more, for I was embarking on new and possibly stirring

experiences, while he, poor fellow, was all alone as far as Europeans

were concerned, tied down for two years of duty in one of the most

dreary of French military posts. He had his work to occupy him,

it is true, but how monotonous must continual service in a Saharan

post be, more especially when a man is the only representative of his

race within nearly 200 miles. Far away from kith and kin, living in

a region almost apart from what is known as “the world,” where

life is hard, food scarce and bad, and surrounded on all sides by

the barren wastes of the desert. His life was not without a large

element of danger, moreover; for a well-organized marauding band

might easily wipe out his small detachment, and the news would not

reach the Niger until the raiders had made good their escape. But

perhaps it was this element of danger which lent some excitement

to his life and made it more tolerable. I must freely confess that

he was a young man who enjoyed capital spirits, and was as cheerful

and versatile as is usual with his countrymen.

After leaving Kidal on the 8th of May, my route lay almost due north

for a considerable way. Wells were on the average fifty miles apart

on this stage, that is to say, through the Adrar of the Iforas;

but some of the wells had so much potash in them that the water

was quite undrinkable.

[Illustration: THE WELLS OF KIDAL

About every third day camels are brought to the wells to drink.

In the hottest season these animals can, if well trained, exist

eight to ten days without water, but they rapidly lose their powers

of endurance after the third or fourth day. The camel standing up,

on the left, has just arrived from a long desert trek; it will

be noticed how his ribs stand out. The camel squatting in the

foreground, on the other hand, has drunk his fill, as is, indeed,

indicated by his big barrel and general air of contentment.]

The southern portion of Adrar affords some interesting relics

of the Stone Age. The wells have probably been in existence for

many centuries, and at one or two places we found some curious

little stone implements, such as arrowheads, miniature axes,

etc. There seems to be no doubt that all this country must have

been inhabited at one period by a sedentary population, thus further

strengthening the theory that the Sahara was not always the barren

waste it now is. In the neighbourhood of Es-Souk, some eighty miles

north-west of Kidal, there are unmistakable evidences of much later

civilization. Ruins of buildings are there found in the sand. This

place is supposed to have been one of the northernmost parts of

the Sonrhay Empire, as late as the twelfth century. Mahomed told me

that he had on a previous occasion found stone implements near one

of the wells in Southern Adrar, but he had, of course, not taken

much interest in the discovery or pursued it any further.

In the country between the Niger and Southern Adrar one occasionally

observed tumuli, with remains of pottery, and I had been told,

although I had myself never seen any, that granite and porphyry

pestles and grindstones had been found, with similar evidences of

vanished villages.

It is easy to conjure up pictures of former nations inhabiting

prosperous townships in this portion of the Sahara in olden times,

when the conditions were probably so different from what obtain at

the present day. How strange it is to think that this vast stretch

of country should now be turned into an arid desert. Instead of a

nation dying out as it became effete, in this case it was the land

which, for some unknown causes, became so unproductive as to be a

country in which man could not settle for any length of time, and

he was therefore forced to withdraw to more promising lands. When

all the “oueds” flowed, as presumably they must at one time

have done, the Adrar must have been a well-watered land, as must

also the whole region between the Niger and the Ifora country. To

all intents and purposes the Sahara is now a dead world, and

although many theories have been started, and experiments tried,

for reclaiming small portions of it, it can hardly be said that,

so far, they have met with much success even in the circumscribed

limits in which they have been given the most exhaustive trials.

However, something new in science is always being done, and is it

not possible that one day this dead world may be made to live again;

that by some ingenious process water may be made to flow once more

in dried-up “oueds,” and that the country may be refertilized

and repopulated?

Through Timbuctu and across the great Sahara · 第 20 / 25 章