Cold springs can only indicate the mean atmospheric temperature

p 221

when they are unmixed with the waters rising from great depths, or

descending from considerable mountain elevations, and when they have passed

through a long course at a depth from the surface of the earth which is

equal in our latitudes to 40 or 60 feet, and according to Boussingault, to

about one foot in the equinoctial regions,* these being the depths at which

the invariability of the temperature begins in the temperate and torrid

zones, that is to say, the depths at which horary, diurnal, and monthly

changes of heat in the atmosphere cease to be perceived.

[footnote] * The profound investigations of Boussingault fully convince me,

that in the tropics, the temperature of the ground, at a very slight depth,

exactly corresponds with the mean temperature of the air. The following

instances are sufficient to illustrate this fact:

________________________________________________________

Stations Temperature at Mean Height, in

within 1 French foot Temperature English

Tropic [1.006 of the of the feet, above

Zones. English foot] air. the level

below the of the sea.

earth's surface.

________________________________________________________

Guayaquil 78.8 78.1 0

Anserma Nuevo 74.6 74.8 3444

Zupia 70.7 70.7 4018

Popayan 64.7 65.6 5929

Quito 59.9 59.9 9559

________________________________________________________

The doubts about the temperature of the earth within the tropics, of which I

am probably, in some degree, the cause, by my observations on the Cave of

Caripe (Cueva del Guacharo), 'Rel. Hist.', t. iii., p. 191-196), are

resolved by the consideration that I compared the presumed mean temperature

of the air of the convent of Caripe, 65.3 degrees, not with the temperature

of the air of the cave, 65.6 degrees, but with the temperature of the

subterranean stream, 62.3degrees, although I observed ('Rel. Hist.', t.

iii., p. 146 and 195) that mountain water from a great height might probably

be mixed with the water of the cave.

Hot springs issue from the most various kinds of rocks. The hottest

permanent springs that have hitherto been observed are, as my own researches

confirm, at a distance from all volcanoes. I will here advert to a notice

in my journal of the Aguas Calientes de las Trincheras', in South America,

between Porto Cabello and Nueva Valencia, and the 'Aguas de Comangillas', in

the Mexican territory, near Guanaxuato; the former of these, which issued

from granite, had a temperature of 194.5 degrees; the latter, issuing from

basalt, 205.5degrees. The depth of the source from whence the water flowed

with this temperature, judging from what we know of the law of the increase

of heat in the interior of the earth, was probably 7140 feet, or above two

miles. If the universally-diffused terrestrial heat be the cause of thermal

springs, as of active volcanoes, the rocks can only exert an influence by

the different capacities

p 222

for heat and by their conducting powers. The hottest of all permanent

springs (between 203 degrees and 209 degrees) are likewise, in a most

remarkable degree, the purest, and such as hold in solution the smallest

quantity of mineral substances. Their temperature appears, on the whole, to

be less constant than that of springs between 122 degrees and 165 degrees,

which in Europe, at least, have maintained, in a most remarkable manner,

their 'invariability of heat and mineral contents' during the last fifty or

sixty years, a period in which thermometrical measurements and chemical

analyses have been applied with increasing exactness. Boussingault found in

1823 that the thermal springs of Las Tricheras had risen 12 degrees during

the twenty-three years that had intervened since my travels in 1800.*

[footnote] *Boussingault, in the 'Annales de chimie', t. lii., p. 181. The

spring of Chaudes Aigues, in Auvergne, is only 176degrees. It is also to be

observed, that while the Aguas Calientes de las Trincheras, south of Porto

Cabello (Venezuela), springing from granite cleft in regular beds, and far

from all volcanoes, have a temperature of fully 206.6 degrees, all the

springs which rise in the vicinity of still active volcanoes (Pasto,

Cotopaxi, and Tunguragua) have a temperature of only 97 - 130 degrees.

This calmly-flowing spring is therefore now nearly 12 degrees hotter than

the intermittent fountains of the Geyser and the Strokr, whose temperature

has recently been most carefully determined by Krug of Nidda. A very

striking proof of the origin of hot springs by the sinking of cold meteoric

water into the earth, and by its contact with a volcanic focus, is afforded

by the volcano of Jorulla in Mexico, which was unknown before my American

journey. When, in September, 1759, Jorullo was suddenly elevated into a

mountain 1183 feet above the level of the surrounding plain, two small

rivers, the 'Rio de Cuitimba' and 'Rio de San Pedro', disappeared, and some

time afterward burst forth again, during violent shocks of an earthquake, as

hot springs, whose temperature I found in 1803 to be 186.4 degrees.

The springs in Greece still evidently flow at the same places as in the

times of Hellenic antiquity. The spring of Erasinos, two hours' journey to

the south of Argos, on the declivity of Chaon, is mentioned by Herodotus.

At Delphi we still see Cassotis (now the springs of St. Nicholas) rising

south of the Lesche, and flowing beneath the Temple of Apollo; Castalia, at

the foot of Phaedriadae; Pirene, near Acro-Corinth; and the hot baths of

Aedipsus, in Euboea, in which Sulla bathed during the Mithridatic war.*

[footnote] *Cassotis (the spring of St. Nicholas) and Castalia, at the

Phaedriadae, mentioned in Pausanias, x., 24, 25, and x., 8, 9; Pirene

(Acro-Corinth), in Strabo, p. 379; the spring of Erasinos, at Mount Chaon,

south of Argos, in Herod., vi., 67, and Pausanias, ii., 24, 7; the springs

of Aedipsus in Euboea, some of which have a temperature of 88 degrees, while

in others it ranges between 144) qne 167 degrees, in Strabo, p. 60 and 447,

and Athenaeus, ii., 3, 73; the hot springs of Thermopylae, at the foot of

Oeta, with a temperature of 149 degrees. All from manuscript notes by

Professor Curtius, the learned companion of Otfried Muller.

I advert with pleasure to these

p 223

facts, as they show us that, even in a country subject to frequent and

violent shocks of earthquakes, the interior of our planet has retained for

upward of 2000 years its ancient configuration in reference to the course of

the open fissures that yield a passage to these waters. The 'Fontaine

jaillissante' of Lillers, in the Department des Pas de Calais, which was

bored as early as the year 1126, still rises to the same height and yields

the same quantity of water; and, as another instance, I may mention that the

admirable geographer of the Caramanian coast, Captain Beaufort, saw in the

district of Phaselis the same flame fed by emissions of inflammable gas

which was described by Pliny as the flame of the Lycian Chimera.*

[footnnote] (Pliny, ii., 106; Seneca, 'Epist.' 79, 3, ed. Ruhkopf

(Beaufort, 'Survey of the Coast of Karamania', 1820, art. Yanar, near

Delktasch, the ancient Phaselis, p. 24). See also Ctesias, 'Fragm.', cap.

10 p. 250, ed. Bahr; Strabo, lib. xiv., p. 666, Casaub.

["Not far from the Deliktash, on the side of a mountain, is the perpetual

fire described by Captain Beaufort. The travelers found it as brilliant as

ever, and even somewhat increased; for, besides the large flame in the

corner of the ruins described by Beaufort, there were small jets issuing

from crevices in the side of the crater-like cavity five or six feet deep.

At the bottom was a shallow pool of sulphureous and turbid water, regarded

by the Turks as a sovereign remedy for all skin complaints. The soot

deposited from the flames was regarded as efficacious for sore eyelids, and

valued as a dye for the eyebrows." See the highly interesting and accurate

work, 'Travels in Lycia', by Lieut. Spratt and Professor E. Forbes.] -- Tr.

The observation made by Arago in 1821, that the deepest Artesian wells are

the warmest,* threw great light on the origin of thermal springs, and on the

establishment of the law that terrestrial heat increases with increasing

depth.

[footnote] *Arago, in the 'Annuaire pour' 1835, p. 234.

It is a remarkable fact, which has but recently been noticed, that at the

close of the third century, St. Patricus,* probably Bishop of Pertusa, was

led to adopt very correct views regarding the phenomenon of the hot springs

at Carthage.

[footnote] *'Acta S. Patricii', p. 555, ed. Ruinart, t. ii., p. 385,

Mazochi. Dureau de la Malle was the first to draw attention to this

remarkable passage in the 'Recherches sur la Topographie de Carthage', 1835,

p. 276. (See, also, Seneca, 'Nat. Quaest.', iii., 24.)

On being asked what was the cause of boiling water bursting from the earth,

he replied, "Fire is nourished in the clouds and in the interior

p 224

of the earth, as Aetna and other mountains near Naples may teach you. The

subterranean waters rise as if through siphons. The cause of hot springs is

this: waters which are more remote from the subterranean fire are colder,

while those which rise nearer the fire are heated by it, and bring with them

to the surface which we inhabit an insupportable degree of heat."

As earthquakes are often accompanied by eruptions of water and vapors, we

recognize in the 'Salses',* of small mud volcanoes, a transition from the

changing phenomena presented by these eruptions of vapor and thermal springs

to the more powerful and awful activity of the streams of lava that flow

from volcanic mountains.

[footnote] *[True volcanoes, as we have seen, generate sulphureted hydrogen

and muriatic acid, upheave tracts of land, and omit streams of melted

feldspathic materials; salses, on the contrary, disengage little else but

carbureted hydrogen, together with bitumen and other products of the

distillation of coal, and pour forth no other torrents except of mud, or

argillaceous materials mixed up with water. Daubeney, op cit., p. 540.] --

Tr.

If we consider these mountains as springs of molten earths producing

volcanic rocks, we must remember that thermal water, when impregnated with

carbonic acid and sulphurous gases, are continually forming horizontally

ranged strata of limestone (travertine) or conical elevations, as in

Northern Africa (in Alberia), and in the Banos of Caxamarca, on the western

declivity of the Peruvian Cordilleras. The travertine of Van Diemen's Land

(near Hobart Town) contains, according to Charles Darwin, remains of a

vegetation that no longer exists. Lava and travertine, which are constantly

forming before our eyes, present us with the two extremes of geognostic

relations.

'Salses' deserve more attention than they have hitherto received from

geognosists. Their grandeur has been overlooked because of the two

conditions to which they are subject; it is only the more peaceful state, in

which they may continue for centuries, which has generally been described:

their origin is, however, accompanied by earthquakes, subterranean thunder,

the elevation of a whole district, and lofty emissions of flame of short

duration. When the mud volcano of Jokmali began to form on the 27th of

November, 1827, in the peninsula of Abscheron, on the Caspian Sea, east of

Baku, the flames flashed up to an extraordinary height for three hours,

while during the next twenty hours they scarcely rose three feet above the

crater, from which mud was ejected. Near the village of Baklichli, west of

Baku, the flames rose so high that

p 225

they could be seen at a distance of twenty-four miles. Enormous masses of

rock were torn up and scattered around. Similar masses may be seen round

the now inactive mud volcano of Monte Ziblo, near Sassuolo, in Northern

Italy. The secondary condition of repose has been maintained for upward of

fifteen centuries in the mud volcanoes of Girgenti, the 'Macalubi', in

Sicily, which have been described by the ancients. These salses consist of

many contitiguous conical hills, from eight to ten, or even thirty feet in

height, subject to variations of elevation as well as of form. Streams of

argillaceous mud, attended by a periodic development of gas, flow from the

small basins at the summits, which are filled with water; the mud, although

usualy cold is sometimes at a high temperature, as at Damak, in the province

of Samarang, in the island of Java. The gases that are developed with loud

noise differ in their nature consisting for instance, of hydrogen mixed with

naphtha, or of carbonic acid, or, as Parrot and myself have shown (in the

peninsula of Taman, and in the 'Volcancitos de Turbaco', in South America),

of almost pure nitrogen.*

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Rel. Hist.', t. iii., p. 562-567; 'Asie Centrale',

t. i., p. 43; t. ii., p. 505-515; 'Vues des Cordilleres', pl. xli.

Regarding the 'Macalubi', the 'overthrown' or 'inverted', from the word

'Khalaba'), and on "the Earth ejecting fluid earth," see Solinus, cap. 5:

"idem ager Agrigentinus eructat limosas scaturigenes, et ut venae fontium

sufficiunt rivis subjinistrandis, ita in hac Sicilae parte solo munquam

deficiente, Aeterna rejectatione terram terra evomit."

Mud volcanoes, after the first violent explosion of fire, which is not,

perhaps, in an equal degree common to all, present to the spectator an image

of the uninterrupted but weak activity of the interior of our planet. The

communication with the deep strata in which a high temperature prevails is

soon closed, and the coldness of the mud emissions of the salses seems to

indicate that the seat of the phenomenon can not be far removed from the

surface during their ordinary condition. The reaction of the interior of

the earth on its external surface is exhibited with totally different force

in true volcanoes or igneous mountains, at points of the earth in which a

permanent, or, at least, continually-renewed connection with the volcanic

force is manifested. We must here carefully distinguish between the more or

less intensely developed volcanic phenomena, as for instance, between

earthquakes, thermal, aqueous, and gaseous springs, mud volcanoes, and the

appearance of bell-formed or dome-shaped trachytic rocks without openings;

the opening of these rocks, or of the elevated beds of basalt, as

p 226

craters of elevation; and, lastly, the elevation of a permanent volcano in

the crater of elevation, or among the 'debris' of its earlier formation. At

different periods, and in different degrees of activity and force, the

permanent volcanoes emit steam acids, luminous scoriae, or, when the

resistance can be overcome, narrow, band-like streams of molten earths.

Elastic vapors sometimes elevate either separate portions of the earth's

crust into dome-shaped unopened masses of feldspathic trachyte and dolerite

(as in Puy de Dome and Chimborazo), in consequence of some great or local

manifestation of force in the interior of our planet, or the upheaved strata

are broken through and curved in such a manner as to form a steep rocky

ledge on the opposite inner side, which then constitutes the inclosure of a

crater of elevation. If this rocky ledge has been uplifted from the bottom

of the sea, which is by no means always the case, it determines the whole

physiognomy and form of the island. In this manner has arisen the circular

form of Palma, which has been described with such admirable accuracy by

Leopold von Buch, and that of Nisyros,* in the Aegean sea.

[footnote] *See the interesting little map of the island of Nisyros, in

Roise's 'Reisen auf den Griechischen Inseln', bd. ii., 1843, s. 69.

Sometimes half of the annular ledge has been destroyed, and in the bay

formed by the encroachment of the sea corallines have built their cellular

habitations. Even on continents craters of elevation are often filled with

water, and embellish in a peculiar manner the character of the landscape.

Their origin is not connected with any determined species of rock: they

break out in basalt, trachyte, leucitic porphyry (somma), or in doleritic

mixtures of augite and labradorite; and hence arise the different nature and

external conformation of these inclosures of craters. No phenomena of

eruption are manifested in such craters, as they open no permanent channel

of communication with the interior, and it is but seldom that we meet with

traces of volcanic activity either in the neighborhood or in the interior of

these craters. The force which was able to produce so important an action

must have been long accumulating in the interior before it could overpower

the resistance of the mass pressing upon it; it sometimes, for instance, on

the origin of new islands, will raise granular rocks and conglomerated

masses (strata of tufa filled with marine plants) above the surface of the

sea. The compressed vapors escape through the crater of elevation, but a

large mass soon falls back and closes the opening, which had been only

formed by these manifestations of force. No volcano can, therefore,

p

be produced.*

[footnote] *Leopold von Buch, 'Phys. Beschreibung der Canarischen Inseln',

s. 326; and his Memoir 'uber Erhebungscratere und Vulcane', in Poggend.,

'Annal.', bd. xxxvii., s. 169.

In his remarks on the separation of Sicily from Calabria, Strbo gives an

excellend description of the two modes in which islands are formed: "Some

islands," he observes (lib. vi., p. 258, ed. Casaub.), "are fragments of the

continent, others have arisen from the sea, as even at the present time is

known to happen; for the islands of the great ocean, lying far from the main

land, have probably been raised from its depths, while, on the other hand,

those near promontories appear (according to reason) to have been separated

from the continent."

A volcano, properly so called, exists only where a permanent connection is

established between the interior of the earth and the atmosphere, and the

reaction of the interior on the surface then continues during long periods

of time. It may be interrupted for centuries, as in the case of Vesuvius

Fisove,* and then manifest itself with renewed activity.

[footnote] *Ocre Fisove (Mons Vesuvius) in the Umbrian language. (Lassen

'Deutung der Eugubinischen Tafeln in Rhein. Museum', 1832, s. 387.) The

word 'ochre' is very probaby genuine Umbrian, and means, according to

Festus, 'mountain'. Aetna would be a burning and shining mountain, if Voss

is correct in stating that [Greek work] is an Hellenic sound, and is

connected with [Greed word] and [Greek word]; but the intelligent writer

Parthey doubts this Hellenic origin on etymological grounds, and also

because etna was by no means regarded as a luminous beacon for ships or

wanderers, in the same manner as the ever-travailing Stromboli (Strongyle),

to which Homer seems to refer in the Odyssey (xii., 68, 202, and 219), and

its geographical position was not so well determined. I suspect that tna

would be found to be a Sicilian word, if we had any fragmentary materials to

refer to. According to Diodorus (v., 6), the Sicani, or aborigines

preceding the Sicilians, were compelled to fly to the western part of the

island, in the consequence of successive eruptions extending over many

years. The most ancient eruption of Mount Aetna on record is that mentioned

by Pindar and Schylus, as occurring under Hiero, in the second year of the

75th Olympiad. It is probable that Hesiod was aware of the devastating

eruptions of Aetna before the period of Greek immigration. There is,

however, some doubt regarding the work [Greek word] in the text of Hesiod, a

subject into whci I have entered at some length in another place.

(Humboldt, 'Examen Crit. de le Geogr.', t. i., p. 168.)

In the time of Nero, men were disposed to rank Aetna among the volcanic

mountains which were graduallybecoming extinct,* and subsequently Aelian**

even maintained that mariners could no longer see the sinking summit of the

mountain from so great a distance at sea.

[footnote] *Seaeca. 'Epist.', 79.

[footnote] ** Aelian, 'Var. Hist.', viii., 11.

Where these evidences -- these old scaffoldings of eruption, I might almost

say -- still exist, the volcano rises from a crater of elevation, while a

high rocky wall surrounds, like an amphitheater, the isolated conical mount,

and forms around it a kind of easing of highly elevated

p 228

strata. Occasionally not a trace of this inclosure is visible, and the

volcano, which is not always conical rises immediately from the neighboring

plateau in an elongated form, as in the case of Pichincha,* at the foot of

which lies the city of Quito.

[footnote] *[This mountain contains two funnel-shaped craters, apparently

resulting from two set of eruptions: the western nearly circular, and

having in its center a cone of eruption, from the summit and sides of which

are no less than seventy vents, some in activity and others extinct. It is

probable that the larger number of the vents were produced at periods

anterior to history. Caubney, op. cit., p. 488.] -- Tr.

As the nature of rocks, or the mixture (grouping) of simple minerals into

granite, gneiss, and mica slate, or into trachyte, basalt, and dolorite, is

independent of existing climates, and is the same under the most varied

latitudes of the earth, so also we find every where in inorganic nature that

the same laws of configuration regulate the reciprocal superposition of the

strata of the earth's crust, cause them to penetrate one another in the form

of veins, and elevate them by the agency of elastic forces. This constant

recurrence of the same phenomena is most strikingly manifested in volcanoes.

When the mariner, amid the islands of some distant archipelago, is no

longer guided by the light of the same stars with which he had been familiar

in his native latitude, and sees himself surrounded by palms and other forms

of an exotic vegetation, he still can trace, reflected in the individual

characteristics of the landscape, the forms of Vesuvius, of the come-shaped

summits of Auvergne, the craters of elevation in the Canaries and Azores, or

the fissures of eruption in Iceland. A glance at the satellite of our

planet will impart a wider generalization to this analogy of configuration.

by means of the charts that have been drawn in accordance with the

observations made with large telescopes, we may recognize in the moon, where

water and air are both absent, vast craters of elevation surrounding or

supporting conical mountains, thus affording incontrovertible evidence of

the effects produced by the reaction of the interior on the surface, favored

by the influence of a feebler force of gravitation.

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