the hair straight back, and form a chignon of curls at the back. Place a
diadem plait across forehead, and raise the hair from the temples over
the plait. Trim with roses and ribbans, or to suit dress.
[Illustration: SOIREE OR EVENING HEAD-DRESS.]
This cut illustrates the Soiree or Evening Head-Dress. It is a very
unique and modern style, suited for almost any complexion, and very
easily executed.
EXPLANATION: Comb the hair straight back between the temples, tie it,
and curl the ends, or use a set of long false curls. Place a diadem
plait, made from a switch, across the forehead; then comb the hair back
from the temples, over the ends of the plait, twist it, pass it back
under the curls, and fasten firmly. Use a fancy back-comb on top of
curls, and pin an ornament to diadem plait, with feather and chain
attached, as in cut, or trim to suit dress.
[Illustration: GRAND EVENING PARTY HEAD-DRESS.]
A very graceful Head-Dress, of a bold style, suited for a young lady of
brown or fair complexion, and is in good taste to be worn at the theatre
or Grand Evening Parties.
EXPLANATION: Make a parting over the head, from ear to ear, two inches
from front; on the forehead, between the temples, curl the hair in small
friz curls, and from the temple to the ear, make loose puffs. Divide the
hair in three partings over the head, and roll each in a large puff;
then form a large puff of the back hair, round the nape of the neck, as
in cut. Fasten a large set of loose curls over the puff, with a comb or
other ornament. For reference, see page 245.
[Illustration: EMPRESS HEAD-DRESS.]
A charming Head-Dress, and entirely new, perfectly suiting a fair
complexion. It may serve for the theatre or evening parties. When
powdered it preferably suits a brown or brunette.
EXPLANATION: Make a front parting, and a cross one from ear to ear.
Divide each side into five parts; of the front parting make three puffs
on each side. The remaining four make into long puffs, as in cut,
according to explanations on page 245. The back hair may be arranged in
the same style of puffs, or with a double Chignon, placing a single,
long false curl or braid, back of each ear. Trim with orange leaves, or
to suit dress.
[Illustration: PARISIAN HEAD-DRESS.]
This Head-Dress, both bold and graceful, is suitable for any complexion
or age, when the physiognomy allows it.
EXPLANATION: Comb back the hair from the forehead between the temples,
make a large puff on the temples, and three puffs above each ear. Place
a cushion at the back of head, and comb the hair over it, forming a
chignon; then place a diadem plait, or twist, made from a large switch,
round on the top of head, trimmed with leaves or ribbon, as shown in
cut.
[Illustration: THE APOLLO HEAD-DRESS.]
This Head-Dress is one of the most graceful styles. It was worn in the
time of Louis XIVth, and well agrees with the fashion of the present
day. With some modifications, it is suited to every complexion.
EXPLANATION: Crimp the front hair, and raise it over the temples with a
puff comb. Comb the hair just above the ear back, and friz the ends, and
curl the back hair in large flowing curls, as shown in the cut.
[Illustration: THE MODERN HEAD-DRESS.]
A Head-Dress of elegant composition, coming down from antiquity,
suitable for a young and pretty woman, and perfectly agreeing with a
fair complexion.
EXPLANATION: Part the hair from temple to temple, one inch from front,
comb it up on the forehead, and curl the ends in small snap curls; then
comb the hair back from the temples, and form a loose puff. Make three
partings across the head, and form a puff of each. Of the back hair,
make a braided or plaited chignon, with a few friz curls underneath;
then make two puffs back of the ear, as shown in cut. Wear a fancy comb
or band over the top of chignon.
[Illustration: EVENING PROMENADE HEAD-DRESS.]
A Head-Dress of extraordinary simplicity, and of a most genteel kind,
becoming a dark complexion. It may be adapted for the opera by changing
the trimming.
EXPLANATION: First crimp all the hair, then place a cushion high up
under the hair at the back, forming a chignon, and friz the ends of the
hair from ear to ear under the chignon. Tuck the hair high up on the
forehead, place bands of ribbon over the head with a net at the back,
and bring the hair above the ear up, and fasten to the ribbon. Pin a
ribbon streamer to the net, as in cut.
[Illustration: THE SHEPHERDESS HEAD-DRESS.]
An elegant Head-Dress, and was worn in the time of Louis XVI, for balls
and evening parties, or as a disguise when powdered.
EXPLANATION: Separate the hair across the head from ear to ear, three
inches from front, and roll it in puffs according to directions on page
245. Do up the back hair in a double chignon, either with your own or
false hair; add a set of false curls underneath the chignon, extending
from ear to ear. Trim to suit dress with leaves, flowers and ribbon, as
shown in illustration.
[Illustration: COURT HEAD-DRESS.]
A rich Head-Dress, having a great stamp of distinction, and for that
reason will be adapted for a Court Head-Dress, or Grand Evening Parties.
EXPLANATION: Make a parting over the head from ear to ear, two inches
from front, and form a row of nine small puffs over the forehead. Comb
the remaining hair back, and divide into four partings around the head,
and form each parting in a large puff, as in cut. Add a few small friz
curls and orange blossoms between the puffs. For reference see page
245.
[Illustration: YOUNG BRIDE'S HEAD-DRESS.]
An exquisite Head-Dress, of a very graceful style, and well agreeing
with a fair or brown complexion, to be worn by a young bride, or at
grand assemblies.
EXPLANATION: Comb the hair back and place a set of small loose curls
across the forehead; place a diadem plait over the top of the curls, and
comb the hair off the temples over the ends of the plait, and form a
chignon or bow of the back hair, and place a three-strand braid around
the chignon, made either from the ends of hair from the temple or a
switch. Add a crown of white blossoms and a veil, as shown in the
engraving. If not for a bride, trim to match dress.
[Illustration: NEAPOLITAN HEAD-DRESS.]
An exquisite Head-Dress, of exceedingly graceful and modern style,
agreeing with nearly every complexion; may be worn as a promenade or at
small parties.
EXPLANATION: Part the hair from front to crown, and from ear to ear;
crimp the front, and braid the ends in a three-strand braid, and trim
the ends with ribbon. Either braid or twist the back hair, and form into
a coil. Place a small plait across the forehead, as shown in the
engraving. Deck the hair with flowers or beads, to suit the occasion.
SYNOPTIC OF HUMAN HAIR.
In placing before the public the only book ever published in the "Art of
Hair Work," it is but due to the purchasers of it to say something in
relation to the trade in Human Hair. It is not my intention, however, to
enter into an extended detail and complete history, but simply give a
few items that will serve to show what enormous strides have been taken
within the last few years in this branch of business. It is a business
that but few know anything about--at least in this country, for it is
comparatively new here--but it is one that is very rapidly increasing,
and is now almost doubling itself each year.
The larger quantity, in fact nearly the whole amount of hair retailed in
this country is imported from Europe, where the dealing in human hair
has been made an established and legitimate business for years, and a
great deal of attention is paid in purchasing and preparing it for the
market. Paris is the greatest market for the sale of human hair in the
world; but the amount of superfluous hair used and worn throughout all
Europe, could we give the figures, would seem incredible. The amount
imported to the United States in the years of 1859 and 1860 was not far
from 150,000 and 200,000 pounds, which was valued at that time at from
$800,000 to $1,000,000. Since that time it has been steadily increasing,
and the amount imported last year may be set down at three times as much
as during the years above mentioned. Paris also finds as great a sale
for the article in Russia as in America--the shipments to each being
about equal. Thus, it will be seen, that if all the hair reserved in
Europe for the home demand were added to that which is imported, the
amount would be almost beyond conception; and yet, but about one-tenth
part of the whole production ever leaves its native country.
It is mostly procured from the markets of France, Italy, Russia and
Germany, and large quantities are obtained from Norway and Sweden.
The Norwegians were among the first to make ornaments of hair to be worn
as jewelry, but, in a great measure, we are indebted to the French for
the perfection to which the art has attained. Of the different varieties
of hair, that which is obtained in France and Italy is by far the best,
being of a much finer texture, even color, and of a more glossy
appearance than that from other countries.
The principal requirement in hair to make it valuable is length, and
after it is thrown upon the market it is all assorted--the long from the
short--which is a task of extreme difficulty.
The prices of hair range all the way from $15 to $200 per pound, (a wide
range, but certainly not too large,) and is rated according to hue,
length and texture. The smallest price paid is for the short, coarse
hair of the poorest quality, and which can be used only for certain
purposes. Hair of the ordinary colors range in price from $15 to $100
per pound, but that of gray and white from $100 to $200 per pound, and
even then is not considered exorbitant. In fact, hair is worth any and
all prices. We know of one dealer who had in his possession a very small
quantity, weighing but a half pound and measuring seventy inches, for
which he was offered _four hundred dollars!_ and, strange as it may
appear, he refused to accept it. White hair is mostly obtained by being
picked from the gray, and it not unfrequently happens that many hundred
pounds have to be assorted before being able to secure one single pound
of pure white. It is mainly used in the manufacture of wigs, and it
frequently puzzles the dealer to prepare one for a customer that will
exactly match, and this, with the scarcity of the article, cause the
extraordinary price.
Hair is shipped in both a prepared and unprepared state. That which is
prepared undergoes a process of washing, scouring and cleansing, which
leaves it in the nicest possible state; all the oil, dirt and other
unhealthy substances are completely separated from it, leaving it
perfectly free from all unhealthy influences. That which is shipped in
an unprepared, or raw state, is subjected to the same process of
cleansing after its arrival, and it is so thorough that it is altogether
impossible for anything except the hair to remain. It has frequently
been examined with a microscope, which has proved in every case how
successful the cleansing process had been, for it revealed nothing
whatever of a foreign nature, and, in fact, after its extraordinary
cleaning it would be simply impossible.
After being fully prepared it is then made into switches, curls, plaits,
fronts, wigs, chignons, and not a small amount is used in the
manufacture of hair jewelry, and such other articles as are worn for
ornaments. The jewelry manufactured at this time is as durable as the
all gold jewelry, and is done in a style of surpassing neatness, thus
rendering it beautiful, either as an ornament or memento. There are but
very few places in the United States where hair jewelry is made, and as
it is comparatively a new business, but few have learned it. It is
surprising, however, to notice the many beautiful patterns and elegant
designs into which it is transformed. There is nothing in the way of
jewelry or ornament of any description but what is or may be made from
human hair; and, after being gold-mounted, the contrast between them
makes the hair jewelry preferable to the all gold.
There are many strange incidents related of the human hair suddenly
changing its color--many of which it is hard to believe--and the causes
assigned are various. We are told of persons who, from excessive grief,
found their hair had gradually changed from a dark brown to an almost
perfect white; others, from the same cause, in the short space of one
week discovered their hair plentifully streaked with grey, giving them
the appearance, although young, of being quite old. Many have had their
hair change on account of extreme fright, but we have now to give the
first instance we have ever heard of its turning from white to that of
any other color, except by the aid of dyes.
A Parisian, M. Stanislaus Martin, has published in the _Bulletin de
Therapeutique_ the curious case of a worker in metals who had wrought in
copper only five months, and whose hair, which was lately white, is now
of so decided a _green_ that the man cannot appear in the street without
immediately becoming the object of general curiosity. He is perfectly
well, his hair alone being affected by the copper, notwithstanding the
precautions taken by him to protect it from the action of the metal.
Chemical analysis shows that his hair contains a notable quantity of
acetate of copper, and that it is to this circumstance that it owes its
beautiful green color, which is most singular and remarkable.
The practice of wearing false hair, although it was not generally dealt
in as traffic, has been in vogue many hundred years. The Greek and Roman
ladies were, in olden times, as active in their toilet for the head as
the fashionable ladies of the present day, and false hair was always
brought into requisition, which was then obtained from the Germans, and
they in turn from their slaves.
Powdering the hair, which is now the rage in all fashionable circles, is
also an ancient practice, and was as much indulged in by the men as the
women. History tells us that the consumption of hair powder by the
soldiers of George II was enormous. It was calculated, that inasmuch as
the military force of England and the colonies was, including cavalry,
infantry, militia and fensibles, 250,000, each man used a pound of flour
a week, simply for powdering their hair. The quantity consumed in this
way was 6,500 tons per annum; an amount sufficient to sustain 30,000
persons on bread. Gold and silver hair powder was also plentifully used,
and at a time much earlier in the world's history, than is generally
supposed. Josephus relates that Solomon's horse-guards daily strewed
their heads with gold-dust, which glittered in the sun; and there are
similar instances of different personages recorded in the bible.
The human hair seems to have been given us both for an ornament and
covering--being susceptible of transformation in almost any desired
shape, and apparently indispensable for covering and protecting the
head. The ancient Greeks were very partial to long hair, considering it
by far the more becoming; but the Egyptians regarded it as an
incumbrance, shaved their heads, and substituted wigs. The ancients,
generally speaking, strangely considered a fine head of hair so
desirable, that it became sacred. They frequently dedicated it to the
gods, on important occasions of marriage, victory, escape from death and
danger, and the burial of friends. Different styles of wearing the hair,
was resorted to for denoting the various grades, or positions in life,
of the people, some wearing it quite long, others short, and some
dressing it in a peculiar manner,--each style, or length, being
according to the condition, wealth, or social standing of the wearer.
Plucking it out, or neglecting it, was a token of affliction.
Hair contains a very small quantity of water, manganese, iron, and
various salts of lime, which have been found by the various methods of
analyzation, and it is owing to these properties that it is peculiarly
indestructible. It has been found on mummies, more than twenty centuries
old, in a perfect and unaltered state, and many instances are related,
which are now admitted to be facts, of the hair continuing to grow, for
a time, after death.
There has never before been a book written and published, that was
particularly dedicated to the subject of Hair, and as the field is a
vast one, both as regards the importance of the subject, and the
information to be gained thereby, it is simply strange that no one has
ever entered it. It has been too long neglected, and the increasing
necessity for a treatise of this kind, has been pressed upon the
attention of the author, and induced the publication of this work, which
will certainly meet the necessities of the age.
There is much else that might be said on this subject that would prove
both interesting and instructive, but we prefer for the present to let
it rest. We have endeavored in preparing this book both to instruct and
amuse; for, by following its instructions, it may be made to be
profitable and highly remunerative, and in making articles, either for
gifts, mementoes, or otherwise, it will certainly be amusing and
entertaining. We have given the instructions in a way that all may
readily understand, and as the patterns are numerous, and the designs
elegant, we think there can be nothing lacking to make the book all it
claims to be.
The principal offices for the sale of these books, will be at my
establishments, No. 737 Broadway, New York, and No. 81 South Clark
Street, Chicago.
[Illustration]
RETAIL DEPARTMENT.
[Illustration]
In placing before the trade my list of Hair Jewelry and Hair Goods, I
beg sincerely to thank my customers for the increasing support I have
received from them, and let them be assured I shall do all on my part to
merit a continuance of the same. The following is a list of some of the
leading articles I import, manufacture and sell, at wholesale and
retail, and at prices less than can be found in any other House on this
continent. I import
HUMAN HAIR OF THE FINEST QUALITY!
of every length and shade, prepared and unprepared, _which I furnish the
trade at low prices_:
_Hair Jewelry, Gold Mountings for Hair Jewelry, Gent's Wigs and Toupees,
Ladies' Wigs, Switches, Braids, Curls, Waterfalls, Frizettes, Coils, Bows,
Fronts, Scratches, Bands, Hair-Nets, Ornamental Hair, Partings,
Whiskers, Beards, Mustaches, Puffs, Curling-Irons,
Curling-Sticks, Crimping-Irons, Perfumery, Pomades
and Creams, Soaps, Hair Brushes, Combs,
Hair Oils, Cosmetiques, Crimping-Pins._
"CHREVOLION," FOR THE HAIR!
For restoring the growth and natural color of the hair, and beautifying
the complexion.
FACE POWDERS,
ROUGES AND
FRENCH ENAMEL.
HAIR POWDERS--
DIAMOND POWDER,
GOLD POWDER,
SILVER POWDER.
Wig Material, and Tools of Every Description!
In conclusion, I again renew my thanks to my customers, and trust, by
the best attention to all orders, to give them increased satisfaction,
as well as to merit the support of any portion of the trade who have not
heretofore favored me with their commands. All orders sent by mail,
accompanied by a Post Office Certificate, will be promptly filled and a
safe return guaranteed.
WIG MANUFACTORY.
[Illustration]
WIGS! TOUPEES! SWITCHES! CURLS!
The great success I have met with, and the rapidly increasing demand for
Goods of my manufacture, is owing mainly to the superior quality of hair
which I import exclusively for my trade, and the superior workmanship in
their manufacture.
_WIGS! WIGS! WIGS! WIGS!_
I have the largest assortment of Wigs in the United States, and
manufacture to order any and every style.
GENT'S WIGS AND TOUPEES,
ventilated on Human Hair gauze or silk seams. Weft Wigs and Toupees,
with or without seams, of straight or natural curly hair.
LADIES' WIGS,
short or long glossy hair, straight, natural curly or frizzed. Also
Fronts and Bandoes.
[Illustration: Directions for Measuring the Head for a Wig.
No. 1--The circumference of the Head.
No. 2--From Forehead to Nape.
No. 3--From Ear to Ear, across the Forehead.
No. 4--From Ear to Ear, over the top of the Head.
No. 5--From Temple to Temple, round back of the Head.]
To measure for Toupee or Scratch, cut a piece of paper the exact size
and shape of bald spot. Send your orders according to the above
directions, and we will warrant a fit.
I OFFER TO THE PUBLIC THE LARGEST ASSORTMENT
of SWITCHES, CURLS, BRAIDS and FRIZZETTES, to be found in any
establishment in America, and
DEFY COMPETITION IN QUALITY AND PRICE.
MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT.
[Illustration: GOLD JEWELRY MANUFACTORY.]
[Illustration: HAIR BRAIDING ROOMS.]
I manufacture and sell, at WHOLESALE and RETAIL,
HAIR JEWELRY
AND
_GOLD MOUNTINGS FOR HAIR JEWELRY_,
OF EVERY PATTERN AND DEVICE,
to suit the fancy of my patrons. I have given years of study and
practical experience to this branch of my business, and have so
perfected and enlarged my MANUFACTURING FACILITIES, as to feel confident
of being able to give entire satisfaction, in workmanship and price. I
furnish or make the
Gold Mountings for Hair Jewelry,
of any style or pattern desired. I also furnish the braids separate from
the mountings, or the two complete.
Persons buying books, and wishing to procure
_BRAIDING TABLES,_
_WEIGHTS,_
_BOBBINS,_
_MOULDS_
_OR FORMS,_
will be supplied at very low rates. For the accommodation of my trade, I
have made arrangements to have braiding tools and material
MANUFACTURED IN VERY LARGE QUANTITIES,
which I will furnish at prices sufficient only to cover the cost of
manufacture and transportation.
CAMPBELL'S CHREVOLION.
[Illustration]
CAMPBELL'S CHREVOLION
FOR
_Restoring the COLOR and Growth of the Hair, Purifying, Whitening and
Beautifying the Complexion._
IT IS A PREVENTIVE AND SURE CURE FOR BALDNESS,
_Cleansing the Scalp of Dandruff and all Impurities, Invigorating the
Roots of the Hair, giving it Life, Health, and its_
NATURAL COLOR.
IT IS A SURE CURE FOR ROUGH SKIN, FRECKLES, SUNBURN, AND ALL IMPURITIES
OF THE COMPLEXION.
CAMPBELL'S CHREVOLION.
[Illustration: M. Campbell's Chrevolion Manufactory.]
[Illustration: BEFORE USING]
[Illustration: AFTER USING]
M. CAMPBELL'S CHREVOLION NO. 1, FOR _Restoring the Hair to its Natural
Color_.
This wonderful Preparation needs only to be used to be appreciated. It
is free from those objections that accompany preparations compounded
from minerals, which have been offered to the public in
Imitation of Chrevolion.
It will restore the natural color of the Hair with but
two or three applications. It is a common practice
with compounders, when presenting an article to the
public, to advertise an array of testimonials
purporting to be from distinguished persons, but I
prefer to rest the success of the Chrevolion strictly
upon its efficacious merit,
KNOWING IT WILL DO ALL THAT IS CLAIMED.
[Illustration: Pointing hand] Sold by all the principal Druggists in this
country, and prepared by M. CAMPBELL, Broadway, N. Y., and South Clark
street, Chicago, Ill.
CAMPBELL'S CHREVOLION.
[Illustration: Ladies' Hair Dressing.]
[Illustration: BEFORE USING.]
[Illustration: AFTER USING.]
CHREVOLION No. 2, FOR PURIFYING AND WHITENING THE COMPLEXION AND
_Restoring the Growth of the Hair_.
This Complexion Purifyer is a Magical Curative for the Face and Scalp.
It will allay all Feverish Humor of the Skin, and remove Freckles,
Pimples Sunburn and other eruptions, leaving the Face soft, white and
beautiful, with
_BUT TWO OR THREE APPLICATIONS_.
Hundreds of cases, where the Hair was dropping, and
Baldness seemed inevitable, have been effectually
cured by the use of the Chrevolion.
PREPARED ONLY BY M. CAMPBELL.
Sold by all the principal Druggists in this country. Price $1.00 per
Bottle.
HAIR JEWELRY.
PRICE LIST.