usual number--fifteen hairs in a strand, and place on table like
pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, and have
one-half the strands white hair, and one-half black, and place
alternately Nos. 1 and 2 of white, and Nos. 3 and 4 of black; lift No. 1
over No. 2, and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2; then repeat with the same
strands, the No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2. Then go to B
and braid the same, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence
with the outside row of figures, and braid round to the left; lift No. 1
over No. 2, and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2; then repeat with the same
strands, the same as at A and B, and so on round to A. Then you are
through the braid, ready to commence as at first. After it is braided,
turn the braid inside out.
[Illustration]
Braid this over a round stick, the size you want the braid for use,
varying the number of strands according to the size of the stick; then
slip the braid from the stick on to the mold you wish to use, tying it
so it will fit the mold exactly, and then boil in water five minutes,
and take it out and put it in an oven as hot as it will bear without
burning, until it is quite dry. Then it is ready for use.
OPEN STRIPED BRAID.
TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--sixty being the
usual number--fifteen hairs in a strand, and place on table like
pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, and have
one-half of the strands white hair, and one-half black, and place
alternately one strand of white and one of black; lift No. 1 over No. 2,
and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2; then repeat with the same strands, the No.
1 over No. 2, and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2. Then go to B and braid the
same, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence with the
outside row of figures, and braid round to the left; lift No. 1 over No.
2, and No. 4 over Nos. 3 and 2; then repeat with the same strands, the
same as at A and B, and so on round to A. Then you are through the
braid, ready to commence as at first. After it is braided, turn the
braid inside out.
[Illustration]
Braid this over a round stick, the size you want the braid for use,
varying the number of strands according to the size of the stick; then
slip the braid from the stick on to the mold you wish to use, tying it
so it will fit the mold exactly, and then boil in water five minutes,
and take it out and put it in an oven as hot as it will bear without
burning, until it is quite dry. Then it is ready for use.
WIDE STRIPED BRAID.
TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--eighty being
the usual number,--four hairs in a strand, and place on table like
pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, and have
one-fourth of the strands white hair, and three-fourths black, and place
all the white strands on one side of the table, and all of the black on
the other side; lift No. 2 over No. 3, No. 2 over No. 1, No. 2 over No.
3, Nos. 2 and 3 over No. 4, and No. 2 over No. 1. Then go to B and
change the same way, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence
with the outside row of figures, and change the same as at A, and so on
round table; then you are through the braid, ready to commence as at
first.
[Illustration]
Braid this over a round stick, the size you want the braid for use,
varying the number of strands according to the size of the stick; then
slip the braid from the stick on to the mold you wish to use, tying it
so it will fit the mold exactly, and then boil in water five minutes,
and take it out and put it in an oven as hot as it will bear without
burning, until it is quite dry. Then it is ready for use.
NEAPOLITAN TIGHT BRAID.
TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--eighty being
the usual number--four hairs in a strand, and place on table like
pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, and have
one-fourth of the strands white hair, and three-fourths black,--the Nos.
1 white, and the Nos. 2, 3 and 4 black; lift No. 3 over No. 2, No. 3
over No. 4, No. 1 over No. 2, and No. 3 over No. 2. Then go to B and
change the same way, and so on round table to A. Then go to C, commence
with the outside row of figures, and change the same as at A, and so on
round table; then you are through the braid, ready to commence as at
first.
[Illustration]
Braid this over a round stick, the size you want the braid for use,
varying the number of strands according to the size of the stick; then
slip the braid from the stick on to the mold you wish to use, tying it
so it will fit the mold exactly, and then boil in water five minutes,
and take it out and put it in an oven as hot as it will bear without
burning, until it is quite dry. Then it is ready for use.
OPEN BRAID.
TAKE any number of strands that can be divided by four,--eighty being
the usual number for this braid--four hairs in a strand, and place on
table like pattern. Commence at A, with the inside row of figures, lift
No. 3 over No. 2; then No. 3 over No. 4; then No. 1 over No. 2; then No.
3 over No. 2. Then go to B and change the same way, and so round the
table to A. Then go to C, and commence with the outside row of figures,
and change the same as you did at A, and so on round the table, when you
will be through the braid, ready to commence at A, as at first.
[Illustration]
Braid this over a round stick, the size you want the braid for use,
varying the number of strands according to the size of the stick; then
slip the braid from the stick on to the mold you wish to use, tying the
braid so it will fit the mold exactly, and then boil in water five
minutes, and take it out and put it in an oven, as hot as it will bear
without burning, until it is quite dry. Then it is ready for use.
DIRECTIONS FOR NEW BEGINNERS.
The hair to be used in braiding should be combed perfectly straight, and
tied with a string at the roots, to prevent wasting. Then count the
number of hairs for a strand, and pull it out from the tips, dip it in
water and draw it between the thumb and finger to make it lie smoothly;
then tie a solid, single knot at one end, the same as you would with a
sewing thread.
THE BOBBIN.
To prepare the bobbin for the hair, wind it with white thread, as shown
in the plate, and fasten it with a slip-knot over the knob, leaving an
end of some three inches, with a solid knot tied at the end of it. To
adjust the hair to the bobbins, take the prepared strands of hair and
tie the knotted ends in a square knot to the ends of the strings on the
bobbins. When each strand is thus prepared and tied to the bobbin
strings, place them even, and tie the ends with a string to prevent
their slipping.
See cut of Bobbins on another page.
HOW TO PLACE THEM ON THE TABLE-COVER FOR BRAIDING.
Place the strands across the table-cover, over the numbers, as shown in
the diagram, and fasten a weight to the end of them, under the table,
through the center of cover; then tie the mold or form to be braided,
around in the center, and you are ready for braiding.
For further reference, see plate of table, with explanations.
[Illustration: BRAIDING TABLE.
No. 1.]
The Table Cover, as shown in diagram No. 1, represents the under side of
the cover, showing the rim that fits over the cap, allowing the cover to
revolve, for the convenience of the braider. The cavity through the
cover and cap allows the braid, with the weight attached, to pass
through as fast as braided.
For reference see Braiding Table complete, with bobbins and weights
attached, on page 124.
[Illustration: BRAIDING TABLE
No. 2.]
The above cut represents Braiding Table No. 2, complete, showing the
strands over the cover, with Bobbins attached; also, the weight attached
to the braid, showing the manner of its passing through the table.
[Illustration: BRAIDING TABLE AND POSITION IN BRAIDING.]
[Illustration: WOOD BRAIDING BOBBINS.
No. 1. No. 2.]
The above cut shows the Wood Bobbins, for fine open work or tight
braids. No. 1 is used for braiding any pattern of from one to four hairs
in a strand. No. 2 is used for braiding any pattern of from five to
twenty hairs in a strand. To prepare the Bobbins for use, see
explanations on page 121.
[Illustration: LEAD BOBBINS.
No. 1. No. 2.]
The above cut shows the size and shape of the Lead Bobbins. The No. 1
size is used for braiding Rings and Chains, that have but few hairs in a
strand--from twenty to forty. No. 2 is used for braiding Chains that
have from forty to one hundred hairs in a strand. Either size will
answer for any pattern of Chain or Ring, but to vary the size of the
Bobbin according to the number of hairs in a strand, gives it a nicer
finish. To prepare the Bobbin, wind it with thread, as shown in the cut,
leaving the thread some three inches long, with a solid knot tied at the
end.
[Illustration: LEAD WEIGHT.]
The above cut shows the weight used for drawing the work through the
center of the table as fast as braided, and to balance the bobbins.
Attention should be given to have the weight balance the bobbins
properly, as too great a weight will make the braid loose, or too light
a weight will leave it rough. Use any number of weights required to
balance the bobbins.
[Illustration: FORMS FOR BRAIDING OVER.
No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4.]
The above cuts are made of wire and wood, for braiding over. The Nos. 1
and 2 are for braiding chains over--the No. 1 for small chains, and the
No. 2 for large sizes. No. 3 is used for braiding tight or open work
braids, of from thirty to forty strands. No. 4 is used for the same
braids, with from forty to sixty strands in a braid. The mold may be
made any length, to accommodate the work.
[Illustration: FORMS FOR BRAIDING OVER.
No. 5. No. 6. No. 7.]
The above cuts show the size of forms used for tight or open work
braids. The No. 5 is used for braids of from sixty to eighty strands,
No. 6 of from eighty to one hundred, and No. 7 from one hundred to one
hundred and twenty, according to the fineness of the braid.
[Illustration: EXPLANATIONS ON BRACELETS.
No. 1. No. 2.]
The above cuts represent the completed Bracelet Braid. The No. 1 is
formed from fourteen small braids, braided according to diagram and
explanation on page 104,--using, however, but thirty-two strands,
instead of eighty.
After you have the small braids all completed and prepared, as required
in the explanation, sew them together at one end, so they all lie smooth
and flat, then divide them off in twos, using each two as one strand,
and plait them together; commence at the right side, take one strand at
a time, and lift over one and under two till you get to the center, then
commence on the left side and braid the same way, and so on till
finished. Then sew the ends well, trim them, and put on a little shellac
to fasten them in the clasps.
No. 2 is from the same pattern, and is prepared and finished up in the
same manner. For this Bracelet you use fifteen small braids, divide them
into threes for each strand, and lift over one and under one, from each
side to the center.
[Illustration: EXPLANATIONS ON BRACELETS.
No. 1. No. 2.]
The No. 1 cut of the above Bracelet Braids, is formed from patterns on
pages 87 and 97, and instead of using forty and sixty strands, use but
thirty-two for each. Braid six small braids from pattern on page 87, and
three from pattern on page 97. Sew them tight together at one end,
divide them off in threes, with the open work braid between the two
tight ones, use each three as one strand, and plait them together in a
common three strand braid.
No. 2 is braided according to pattern on page 89. Have three of the
braids, sew them fast at one end, and then twist them carefully and
evenly together; then sew and fasten with shellac, and it is ready for
being gold mounted.
[Illustration: EXPLANATIONS ON BRACELETS.
No. 1. No. 2.]
The No. 1 cut of the above Bracelet Braids, is formed from patterns on
pages 26 and 86. Have two small braids from each of the patterns, lay
them side by side, as in cut, and sew them firmly together, either with
some of the hair, or with very fine silk of the same color. Then sew and
trim the ends, and fasten with shellac.
No. 2 is braided from patterns on pages 18 and 86. Have four small
braids like pattern on page 18, and two like pattern on page 86. Place
them side by side, as in cut, and prepare and finish up the same as in
the above.
[Illustration: EXPLANATIONS ON BRACELETS.
No. 1. No. 2.]
The patterns used for the No. 1, represented above, are found on pages
63 and 95. Have one braid from pattern on page 63, and two from that on
page 95. Place them side by side, as in cut, sew the ends firmly
together, either with some of the hair, or with very fine silk of the
same color. Then sew and trim the ends, and fasten with shellac.
For the No. 2, use two small braids from pattern on page 18, one from
pattern on page 63, and two from pattern on page 95. Place them as in
cut, sew them together, and prepare the same as No. 1.
[Illustration: EXPLANATIONS ON BRACELETS.
No. 1. No. 2.]
The No. 1 of the above Bracelet Braids, is made up of two small braids
from pattern on page 97, and three from pattern on page 101, using,
however, but thirty-two strands, instead of sixty. Place them side by
side, as in cut, and sew them together with some of the hair, or with
fine silk of the same color. Sew, trim and shellac the ends, and they
are ready for the gold mounting.
No. 2 is formed of four small braids, from pattern on page 97, and is
prepared, sewed and finished up the same as No. 1.
LITHOGRAPHED DESIGNS.
The following Lithographic designs of Hair Jewelry, Flowers and
Pictures, are given for the purpose of showing a few of the many
beautiful forms into which the human hair may be transposed. Each and
every one of the devices on the following pages, with the exception of
the flowers and pictures, can be braided from the diagrams and
explanations given in the first one hundred and twenty pages of this
book. Select any article you may wish to make, and by referring to the
patterns, you can easily find the style and directions whereby to braid
it. We might have given twice the number of patterns, or even more, but
any person can, after a little experience, readily invent new and
different styles of braids, and by so doing, each can satisfy their own
peculiar taste.
The making of Hair Flowers is very simple, and yet, of course, every one
has first to learn it. Supply yourself with as many different colors of
hair as you can, and by applying Gum Tragacanth, it renders it capable
of being cut in any shape you may wish--such as leaves, twigs, buds,
&c., and by judiciously arranging the colors, the effect will be very
pleasing. Pictures are made in the same manner, and any one possessing
the least artistic skill, can make any flower or picture they may
desire, and many pleasing adornments and lasting mementos may thereby be
had.
All articles intended to be worn as jewelry, should, of course, be
mounted with gold, and as this kind of work is not done in all jewelry
establishments, I wish to say that my facilities for this branch of
business is complete, and the work done is in the best possible manner.
I can guarantee satisfaction in all cases, let the style desired be what
it may. In sending braids to be mounted, draw on paper, as near as can
be, the style or design you want.
[Illustration: M. CAMPBELL'S,
DESIGNS
OF
HAIR
JEWELRY.]
[Transcriber's Note: For this text edition, fifty instances of
the [Illustration] tag were removed at this point. This was done in an
effort to make reading the text less tedious. The actual illustrations
can, of course, be seen in the HTML edition of this text.]
WEAVING HAIR FOR SWITCHES.
[Illustration]
The above cut represents the apparatus used for weaving hair into
Switches, Curls, Wigs, &c. It is a very simple arrangement, and can be
easily constructed. Provide two straight sticks, about twelve inches
long, and in one of them bore three small holes, two inches apart, in
which to place as many thumb-screws, to be used for tightening or
loosening the cords; in the other, have a single wooden pin or nail, to
fasten the cords to. Place the sticks in a firm, upright position, about
three feet apart, either by boring holes through a table, or by using
mortised blocks, such as is plainly shown in cut, at the right end.
After placing them in position, put on three cords, as shown in diagram,
numbered 1, 2 and 3. For this weft use linen thread, at Nos. 1, 2 and 3.
In commencing to weave, place the hair between two cards, as shown in
diagram, and draw out with the right hand, between the thumb and
fore-finger, the quantity of hair required for the size of the weft;
then change it into the left hand, and place it up to the threads, Nos.
1, 2 and 3, as shown in diagram; lay the strand over No. 1, under No. 2,
over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around under Nos. 1
and 2, over No. 3, around under Nos. 3 and 2, and over No. 1. Then push
the strands together, as in cut.
[Illustration: SEWING SWITCHES.
No. 1. No. 2.]
The No. 1 of the above cuts represents the winding and sewing of the
switch after it is woven. For sewing a switch on points, after weaving,
take Berlin cord, about one-sixteenth of an inch thick, and tie a solid
knot at the end, and sew the end of the weft to the knotted end of the
cord; then wind the weft around the cord, as shown in cut, the length of
point desired, turning the end of the cord over to form a loop. Cut the
weft according to the number of points desired in the switch. Cut No. 2
shows the switch all complete.
WEAVING HAIR FOR CURLS.
[Illustration]
In commencing to weave, place the hair between two cards, or stiff
brushes, as shown in diagram, pressing them tight together, so that in
drawing out, it is perfectly free from tangles; draw out with the right
hand, between the thumb and fore-finger, the quantity of hair required
for the size of the weft; then change it into the left hand, and lift it
up to the No. 1 cord, as shown in diagram; lay the strand over No. 1,
under No. 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around
under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over No. 2, and
under No. 1. Then push the strands together, as shown in diagram. For
this weft use fine, strong linen thread.
MAKING AND PREPARING CURLS.
[Illustration: No. 1.]
[Illustration: No. 2.]
After weaving, according to directions on page 241, take a piece of
ribbon an inch wide, the same color of hair, and as long as you wish the
curls to be in width, and sew the weft to it back and forth. After that
is done, pipe them, which is done in this manner: Dampen the hair, comb
each curl out straight, and wind it tightly on a rattan stick about four
inches long, having each curl on a separate stick, and commencing to
wind at the tip end, tying them firmly to keep in place. Then boil in
water for thirty minutes, and place in an oven as hot as they will bear
without burning, until quite dry. When dry and perfectly cool, take them
off the sticks, and smooth over a curling iron, the size you wish the
curls. Side curls and frizzes should be prepared the same way.
Cut No. 2 represents a set of Curls and Puffs. For explanation of Puffs,
see page 245.
WEAVING HAIR FOR WIGS.
[Illustration]
In commencing to weave, place the hair between two cards, or stiff
brushes, as shown in diagram, pressing them tight together, so that in
drawing out, it is perfectly free from tangles; draw out with the right
hand, between the thumb and fore-finger, the quantity of hair required
for the size of the weft; then change it into the left hand, and lift it
up to the No. 1 cord, as shown in diagram; lay the strand over No. 1,
under No. 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around
under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1,
around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3 around under Nos. 3 and 2, and
over No. 1. Then push the strands together, as shown in diagram. For
this weft use sewing silk.
WEAVING HAIR FOR WATERFALLS AND BOWS
Prepare the same as above, and place the strand under No. 1, over Nos. 2
and 3, around under Nos. 3 and 2, over No. 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2,
over No. 3, around under No. 3, and over Nos. 2 and 1. Aside from these
changes, follow directions given above.
MAKING WATERFALLS AND BOWS.
[Illustration: No. 1.]
[Illustration: No. 2.]
[Illustration: No. 3.]
In making a Chignon, you have first to make the cushion. Take the
combings or waste hair, which is of no other use, and place it between
the cards or stiff brushes, the same as for weaving. Use the weaving
apparatus, with two piping cords, instead of three small ones, and wind
the hair all up, by passing over, between and under the cords. Boil and
dry it, and then pull out the cord, which leaves it all crimped, ready
to weave, according to directions on page 239. Then sew it on a cord,
the same as a switch, and form it in any shape you desire, for a
Waterfall, Bow or Puffs. This completes the cushion. Then weave the long
hair for the covering, according to directions on page 243, and sew it
to the top end of the cushion; comb it out smooth, cover the cushion,
and tie a cord around it immediately at the bottom; then bring up the
end of the hair, and pin it to the inside. Cut No. 1 is intended to
represent the cushion, and No. 2 the complete Waterfall.
Cut No. 3 represents the Bow, which is made in the same manner, by using
two small cushions, like cut No. 1, and placing between them a strand of
smooth or braided hair.
MAKING PUFFS AND COILS.
[Illustration: No. 1.]
[Illustration: No. 2.]
[Illustration: No. 3.]
To make Puffs for front of head, from false hair, similar to cut No. 1,
weave hair from eight to twelve inches long, according to directions on
page 241; then take a ribbon, about one and a half inches wide, any
length required, and tack it on a wig block, or straight piece of board,
and sew the weft crossways a quarter of an inch apart, till the ribbon
is entirely covered; then divide it off in as many puffs as desired,
comb each out straight, and wind it over the two fore-fingers, close up
to ribbon, and put in a hair-pin to retain it.
To make Puffs for back of head, cut No. 2, prepare the same way; make
the foundation the shape and size you wish the puffs, and sew it on the
same way you want the puffs to run. The puffs may be made over a
cushion, formed of crimped hair the shape wanted, and wound over that
instead of the fingers. Ladies not wearing false hair, can have her own
hair dressed by following the above directions.
Cut No. 3 represents a coil, which is made from a switch, and wound over
a long roll of crimped hair. They are much nicer, but more expensive, by
being made altogether from a switch, as that can be twisted into a rope
or braided, before coiling.
EXPLANATIONS ON HAIR DRESSING.
I herewith present, on the following pages, a number of engravings
illustrative of a few of the many styles of Hair Dressing, accompanied
with explanatory remarks as to their execution. They are the latest and
most fashionable European and American styles, and will prove
indispensable to every lady's toilet, as, from the explanations, they
will be able, with very little practice, to dress their own hair in any
desired style; and when any new style is inaugurated, after studying and
practicing the directions given with each illustration, she will find it
an easy matter to arrange it accordingly.
Any one learning Hair Dressing, should acquire perfectly the execution
of the first pattern--the Promenade Head-Dress--as that is very easily
arranged, and when you have once executed it in a perfect manner, the
others will prove comparatively easy.
The manner of dressing the hair at the present day calls for much
attention, and many inquiries are addressed us on the subject. It is
plain, however, that what would correspond with the complexion and
physiognomy of one, would certainly have a distasteful appearance on
another; consequently, in answering inquiries, I can do nothing more
than give the different styles worn. Before giving my illustrations on
Hair Dressing, I have given instructions how to weave hair for chignons,
curls, switches, &c., and how to put them in shape, and with the
directions given with each illustration on Hair Dressing, it will
certainly be an easy task to arrange the hair in any style that is now
or may be in fashion.
[Illustration: PROMENADE HEAD-DRESS.]
Our first cut represents the Promenade Head-Dress, but is worn as
frequently in the drawing-room, and even at public and private
assemblies--in fact, a common and very pretty style.
EXPLANATION: Comb the front hair between the temples straight back, over
a cushion of crimped hair, forming a Chignon; then make two braids of
two small switches, and place one of them over the top of the Chignon,
and the other across the forehead, forming a diadem, turning the ends
under; then comb the hair from temples over the braids, and put back
under the Chignon, and fasten. Place a net of pearl or gilt beads over
the Chignon, as in cut. You can use false hair for covering cushion, if
desired.
[Illustration: RECEPTION HEAD-DRESS.]
This Head-Dress is a most charming composition, and entirely new. It is
adapted either for a brown or fair complexion, to be worn at grand
dinners or receptions. Ornamented with pearl or gilt, it is in good
taste for evening parties.