boiled, boiled, until it would eat a feather, merely drawn quickly
through it. Grease was added then, a little at a time, and stirred well
through, changing the black-brown lye into a light-brown, bubbly mass.
Whatever the lye would not eat of the grease's components, was skimmed
out with the big perforated ladle. Even beyond candle-molding,
soap-making was an art. Mammy never would touch it, until "the right
time of the moon." Also and further, she used a sassafras stick for
stirring, put it in the first time with her right hand, and always
stirred the kettle the same way. If a left-handed person came near the
kettle she was mightily vexed--being sure her soap would go wrong. She
kept on the fire beside it a smaller kettle of clear lye, to be added at
need, without checking the boiling.
Boiling down lye took one day, boiling in grease another. The third
morning, after the fire was well alight, she tested the soap, by making
a bit into lather. If the lather were clean and clear, without a film of
grease on top, she knew it remained only to cook the soap down thick
enough for the barrel, or to make into balls by the addition of salt.
But if the film appeared--then indeed there was trouble. First aid to it
was more lye, of feather-eating strength--next a fresh sassafras
stirring stick, last and most important, walking backwards as she put
the stick in the kettle, though she would never admit she did this on
purpose. Like the most of her race she was invincibly shy about
acknowledging her beliefs in charms and conjuring.
Soap which failed to thicken properly lacked grease. To put in enough,
yet not too much, was a matter of nice judgment. Tallow did not mix well
with hog fat. Therefore it had commonly its smaller special pot, whose
results were molded for hand-soap, being hard and rather light-colored.
Since our washerwomen much preferred soft soap, most of the spring
making went straight into the barrel. The barrel had to be very
tight--soap has nearly as great a faculty of creeping through seams as
even hot lard. One kettleful, however, would have salt stirred through
it, then be allowed to cool, and be cut out in long bars, which were
laid high and dry to age. Old soap was much better for washing fine
prints, lawns, ginghams and so on--in fact whatever needed cleansing
without fading.
Sundry other fine soap makers emptied their salted soap, just as it was
on the point of hardening, into shallow pans, cloth-lined, and shaped it
with bare hands into balls the size of two fists. This they did with the
whole batch, holding hard soap so much easier kept, and saying it was
no trouble whatever to soften a ball in a little hot water upon wash
days. But Mammy would have none of such practices--said give her good
soft soap and sand rock, she could scour anything. Sand rock was a
variety of limestone, which burning made crumbly, but did not turn to
lime. Mammy picked it up wherever she found it, beat it fine and used it
on everything--shelves, floors, hollow-ware, milk pans, piggins, cedar
water buckets--it made their brass hoops shine like gold. While she
scoured she told us tales of the pewter era--when she had gone, a
barefoot child, with her mother, to the Rush Branch, to come home with a
sheaf of rushes, whereby the pewter was made to shine. It hurts even
yet, recalling the last end of that pewter. As glass and crockery grew
plenty, the boys--my uncles, there were five of them--melted it down for
rifle bullets, when by chance they ran out of lead. Yet--who am I, to
reproach them--did not I myself, melt down for a purpose less legitimate
a fine Brittania ware teapot, whose only fault was a tiny leak? Now I
should prize it beyond silver and gold.
Harking back to candle-making--we had no candle-berries in our wilds,
and only a few wax-berries as ornaments of our gardens. But from what I
know by observation and experience, the candle-berries or bayberries,
can be melted in hot water, the same as honey-comb, and the wax strained
away from the seedy residue, then allowed to cool, on top the water, and
clarified by a further melting and cooling over water. Mixed with
paraffine it can be molded into real bayberry candles, ever so much more
odorous than those of commerce. It is well to remember in buying
paraffine that there are three qualities of it, differing mainly in the
degree of heat at which they melt. Choose that which is hardest to melt
for candle-making. One might indeed, experiment with bayberry wax, and
the drippings of plain paraffine candles, before undertaking
candle-making to any considerable extent.
A last word. If any incline to challenge things here set forth, will
they please remember that as one star differs from another in glory, so
does one family, one region, differ from all others in its manners of
eating, drinking, and cooking. I have written true things, but make no
claim that they apply all over. Indeed there may be those to whom they
will seem a transversing of wisdom and experience. To all such I say,
try them intelligently, with pains and patience, and of the results,
hold fast to that you find good.
[Illustration]
INDEX
BACON
Hogs to Choose, 40
Chilling, 40
Cutting up, 40
Salting, 42
Curing, 45
Smoke, 45
Smoke Houses, 46
Smoke Hogshead, 48
Time of Smoking, 49
Keeping, 50
Lard Rendering, 50
Sausage, 52
Souse, 53
Hog's Foot Oil and Jelly, 54
Brains, Pickled, 55
Souse, Pickled, 55
Hog's Feet Fried, 55
Backbone, Stew and Pie, 56
Keeping Sausage, 57
BREADS
Flour and Meal, 26
Mixing, 28
Beaten Biscuit, 28
Soda Biscuit, 30
Salt Rising Bread, 31
Sweet Potato Biscuit, 32
Waffles, 33
Corn Bread, Plain, 34
Egg Bread, 35
Batter Cakes, 35
Ash Cake, 36
Mush Bread, 36
Cracklin' Bread, 37
Pumpkin Bread, 37
Mush Batter Cakes, 38
Wafers, 38
Nut Bread, 219
CAKES
Secret of Success, 136
Mixing, 137
Sweetening Strong Butter, 138
Baking, 139
Frosting, 140
Pound Cake, 140
Spice Cake, 142
Marble Cake, 143
Real Gold Cake, 143
Real Silver Cake, 144
Christmas Cake, 145
White Layer Cake, 147
Cream Cake, 148
Sponge Cake, 148
White Sponge Cake, 149
Angel's Food, 149
Chocolate Cake, 149
Orange Cake, 150
Dream Cakes, 150
Shrewsbury Cakes, 151
Queen Cakes, 151
Banbury Cakes, 152
Oatmeal Cookies, 152
Tea Cakes, 153
Soft Gingerbread, 153
Mammy's Ginger Cakes, 154
Family Gingerbread, 155
Solid Chocolate Cake, 155
Coffee Cake, 155
Ginger Snaps, 156
Kisses, 157
CANDLES, 292
CREOLE COOKERY
Milly, 118
Court Bouillon, 120
Court Bouillon, Spanish, 121
Bouillabaisse, 122
Shrimps, Boiling, 124
Baked Shrimp, 125
Shrimp Pie, 125
Shrimp Salad, 126
Fried Soft-Shell Crabs, 126
Daube _a la Mode_, 127
Cold Daube _a la Creole_, 128
Grillades with Gravy, 129
Chicken Saute _a la Creole_, 130
Quail, Roasted, 131
Creole French Dressing, 132
Mayonnaise Dressing, 133
Remoulade Dressing, 133
DRINKS
Cherry Bounce, 72
Grape Cider, 73
Persimmon Beer, 74
Egg Nogg, 75
White Egg Nogg, 76
Apple Toddy, 76
Hail Storm, 77
Mint Julep, 77
Lemon Punch, 78
Punch _a la_ Ruffle Shirt, 79
Peach Liqueur, 82
Strawberry Liqueur, 83
Blackberry Cordial, 83
Blackberry Wine, 84
Strawberry Wine, 85
Gooseberry Wine, 85
Grape Wine, 86
Muscadine Wine, 87
Fruit Vinegars, 88
Boiled Cider, 89
Bruleau, 134
Drip Coffee, 134
Boiled Coffee, 235
Chocolate, 237
Tea, 234
EGGS
New Laid Eggs, 176
Keeping, 176
Varieties, 177
Roasted Eggs, 178
Baked Eggs, 179
Potato Egg Puffs, 179
Egg Dumplings, 180
Egg Spread, 180
Poached Eggs, 181
Egg Fours, 182
Stuffed Eggs, 183
Fried Eggs, 184
FRUIT DESSERTS
Affinity for Liquors, 212
Strawberries in Mixtures, 213
Peach Mixtures with Brandy, 214
Fruit Mixtures with Sherry Syrup, 214
White Grape-Orange Mixture, 214
Cherries with Bananas, 215
Fruit with Wine Jelly, 215
GAME
Preparation, 165
Rabbit or Squirrel Smothered, 172
Rabbit or Squirrel Barbecued, 173
Quail, 173
Wild Duck, 174
Possum, Roasted, 175
HAMS
Boiled Ham, 59
Fried Ham, 63
Broiled Ham, 64
Mutton Ham, 66
Beef Hams, 68
Rabbit Hams, 70
Fresh Ham, 70
MEATS
Barbecued Lamb, 158
Roast Pork, 159
Beefsteak with Bacon and Onions, 160
Boned Fresh Ham, 161
Roast Beef, 163
Pot Roast, 163
Leg of Mutton in Blanket, 164
Roast Turkey or Capon, 167
Guinea Hen in Casserole, 168
Chickens in Blankets, 169
Fried Chicken, 169
Smothered Chicken or Ducklings, 170
Chicken Croquets Glorified, 171
Chicken-Turkey Hash, 172
PICKLES
Brine, 220
Pickle Barrel, 221
Potential Pickles, 221
Pickling from Brine, 223
Water Melon Pickle, 223
Mangoes, 224
Walnut Pickle, 226
Peach Sweet Pickle, 233
PIES
Philosophy of Pie-Crust, 90
Puff Paste, 91
Raised Crust, 93
French Puff Paste, 94
Everyday Crust, 95
Cobbler Pies, 95
Fried Pies, 97
Green Apple Pie, 98
Lemon Custard, 99
Cream Pie, 99
Damson and Banana Tart, 99
Amber Pie, 100
Jelly Pie, 101
Cheese Cakes, 101
Sweet Potato Custard, 104
Sweet Potato Pie, 104
Apple Custard, 105
Molasses Pie, 105
Mystery Pie, 106
Butter Scotch Pie, 106
Raspberry Cream Pie, 107
Rhubarb Pie and Sauce, 107
Banana Pie, 108
PRESERVES
Preserving Fruit, 227
Ginger Pears, 230
Tutti Frutti, 230
Green Tomato Preserves and Citron, 231
Brandy or Pickled Cherries, 232
Brandy Peaches and Pears, 233
Dried Fruit, 239
Peach and Apple Butter, 245
Keeping Cider Sweet, 249
Peach Chips, 250
Dried Cherries, 250
Peach Leather, 251
Tomato Figs, 251
Jelly-Making, 253
Quince Jelly and Marmalade, 254
PUDDINGS
Banana Pudding, 109
Sweet Potato Pudding, 109
Poor Man's Pudding, 110
Boiled Batter Pudding, 111
Apple Pudding, 111
Apple Dumplings, 112
Crumb Pudding, 112
Blackberry Mush, 113
Peach Pudding, 114
Ginger Pudding, 114
Nesselrode Pudding, 115
Thanksgiving Pudding, 115
Christmas Pudding, 115
Pudding Sauce, 117
Fig Pudding, 156
Quince Pudding, 253
RELISHES
Cold Slaw, 192
Tomato Soy, 193
Table Mustard, 193
Cabbage Pickle, 194
Cauliflower Pickle, 194
Pear Relish, 195
Cherries Piquant, 196
Gooseberry Jam Spiced, 196
Frozen Cranberry Sauce, 197
Apple Sauce Gone to Heaven, 197
Spiced Grapes, 199
Spiced Plums, 200
Sweet-Sour Pears, 200
Baked Peaches, 201
SALADS
Wedding Salad, 188
Fruit Salad, 189
Sweet French Dressing, 190
Banana and Celery Salad, 191
Red White Salad, 191
Pineapple Salad, 191
SANDWICHES
Making Sandwiches, 216
Sardine Sandwiches, 217
Sundry Cheese Sandwiches, 217
Lettuce and Cheese Sandwiches, 217
Ham and Tongue Sandwiches, 218
Cheese and Sherry Sandwiches, 218
SOUPS
Vegetable Soup, 185
Black Turtle, Bean Soup, 186
Gumbo, 187
SOAP, 298
UPON OCCASIONS
Infares, 257
Weddings, 258
Wedding Tables, 258
Cut, Papers, 259
Chandeliers: Home-made, 259
Wedding Cakes, 261
Bride's Cake, 263
Wedding Suppers, 265
Syllabub, 267
Boiled Custard, 268
Orange Lilies, 269
Party Suppers, 270
Ambrosia, 270
Barbecues, 273
Barbecue, 273
Barn Dances, 278
Birthday Barbecue, 290
Baskets, 281
Chicken, Loaf, 284
Dinings, 286
VEGETABLES
Tomato, Layer, 202
Corn Pudding, 203
Fried Corn, 203
Hulled Corn, 204
Steamed Potatoes, 205
Candied Sweet Potatoes, 206
Tipsy Potatoes, 206
Left-Over Sweet Potatoes, 207
Potato Balls, 207
Bananas, 208
Baking Vegetables, 208
Cauliflower, _au Gratin_, 210
Boiling with Bacon, 211
Pot Liquor, 212
* * * * *
Transcriber's Notes:
Obvious punctuation errors were corrected.
Page 16, "evenning" changed to "evening" (by way of evening things)
Page 109, "egg yolks" changed to "egg-yolks" (up four egg-yolks)
Page 126, "hardboiled" changed to "hard-boiled" (sliced hard-boiled
eggs)
Page 142, "egg yolks" changed to "egg-yolks" (other, seven egg-yolks)
Page 154, repeated word "called" removed from text. Original read (be
called called First )
Page 197, "seive" changed to "sieve" (through coarse sieve)
Page 233, "twenty four" changed to "twenty-four" (in twenty-four hours
more)
Page 258, "famly" changed to "family" (his family gave the)
Page 261, "heartcakes" changed to "heart-cakes" (demanded four
heart-cakes)
Pge 316, "Red-White" changed to "Red and White" (Red and White Salad,
191)
Page 317, "Bran" changed to "Barn" (Barn dances, 278)
The text uses variant hyphenation and spelling. Where a majority could
not be ascertained, as in egg-yolks, the variations were retained.
cheesecake cheese cake
corn-bread corn bread
allspice alspice
soapmaking soap-making