time he unloaded his cargo, took ballast, water, and fuel, mended sails
and repaired the ship, which needed it badly, the sixth board under
water at the poop having to be replaced for a length of one and one-half
yards.
He got ready to start for the newly-discovered Port of San Francisco.
Starting from the shelter of Monterey, situated at latitude 36 deg. deg. 33',
longitude 16 deg. 45' W. of San Blas to the newly-discovered Port of San
Francisco, July 26, 1775.
That day it was impossible to sail on account of the wind coming from a
contrary direction.
On July 27th, the launch towed the San Carlos until she came to the
range of a southwest wind and sailed in a northwest direction[45]. At
noon Point Pinos was seen bearing south 13 deg. distant five miles; at 3 p.
m. it had disappeared from view. Very soon after, Point Ano Nuevo came
in sight and the land adjoining it, about four or five miles distant.
From July 28th to August 3d, little progress was made on account of
contrary winds from the northwest. On August 3d, at 1 p. m., land was
seen to the east 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues. It was
found to be Point Ano Nuevo. At 7 p. m. another point came into view
bearing north 1/4 northeast, distant about twelve leagues, which was
considered to be Point Reyes. At 10 p. m., the wind being northwest, the
San Carlos steered west-southwest and continued in that course until 8
a. m. of the 4th, when the bearing was changed to the north-northeast.
At noon the sun's altitude was taken and the latitude was found to be
37 deg. 11', and longitude 17 deg. 51' W. of San Blas. At 6 p. m., August 4th,
the southernmost Farallon of the Port of San Francisco was seen to the
northwest, distant about eight leagues. The land to the north was Point
Reyes, bearing 4 deg. W., distant about fourteen leagues. At half past
eleven, considering the coast was near, the course was changed to the
south-southwest, until 3 a. m. of August 5th, when it was changed again
to the north-northeast 5 deg. north to bring the ship at sunrise to the
point it was at sunset of the day before. At 5 a. m. four of the
Farallones of San Francisco were seen to the north-northwest, distant
four leagues. Point Ano Nuevo was southeast 1/4 east from twelve to
fourteen leagues and Point Almejas northeast 4 deg. east, distant three
leagues. At 8 a. m., being near land, commander Ayala lowered the
launch, and in it Pilot Canizares was sent with ten men to search for an
anchorage, while the San Carlos continued along the coast. At 9 a. m. a
strong current was felt, which drove them to sea, but at eleven it was
observed that the vessel was nearing the coast, which convinced the
commander that it was due to the tide, and this was confirmed by the
soundings; in entering the port, as on the first occasion, the tide was
going out, and on the second one the tide was coming in. The altitude
of the sun was taken at noon of that day, with the utmost care, and the
latitude was found to be 37 deg. 42' and the longitude 17 deg. 14' W. of San
Blas. At this time Point Ano Nuevo was about fourteen leagues distant
to the southeast south; the Farallones to the northwest, distant four
leagues, and Point Reyes north 1/4 northeast, distant four leagues.
The wind was from the west. At 4 p. m. the vessel was steered to the
north-northeast, and half an hour later soundings were taken and bottom
found at sixteen brazas[46] of mud and sand mixed, and distant from the
mouth about two leagues. At 5 p. m. bottom was found at fifteen brazas,
with the same kind of bottom material. Sounding was continued and the
bottom was found to be as noted in the large map. The current was so
great at the mouth of this port that at 8:30 p. m., with a strong wind
from the west-southwest with full sails, the current allowed them to go
not more than a mile and a half per hour, which shows that the current
must go at least six miles at the middle of the channel. The swiftness
of the current, the fact that the launch had not returned and that night
was coming on, made it necessary to seek for an anchorage; this was
done with great care and precaution; as the force of the wind made it
necessary to have full sail, it was feared that some of the rigging
might give way. For that reason, soundings were taken continually with
a 20-lb. lead, and a line of sixty brazas could not reach bottom, either
in the channel or near the point. This seemed very strange until it was
realized that the current was carrying the lead and it did not strike
bottom. They continued thus until they were one league inside the
mouth of the bay and a quarter of a mile from the shore, when the wind
suddenly stopped. Finding that the current was carrying the ship towards
the mouth, an anchor was thrown overboard, after having made it fast
to the big mast so that if it did not catch the bottom it would not
be lost. It was found that the anchor held. Two more anchors were made
ready to drop in case the big one should drag. When the wind stopped
and the current ceased, the vessel was found to be in twenty-two brazas,
with sandy bottom[47].
At 6 a. m. of August 6, the launch, which had not been seen since sunset
the day before, came to the vessel. The pilot was asked why he had not
come to meet the ship when he saw her sailing shoreward looking for the
entrance of the bay, answered that at 6 p. m. he had seen a suitable
harbor for the packet-boat to the east of the entrance, and when he
attempted to go out the whirlpools and eddies caused by the current were
such that it was impossible to make any progress, as the current carried
him back towards the shore, so that he determined to stay in the harbor
he had attempted to leave. This, and the fact that the men were fired
out, made him wait until 4 a. m., when he again attempted to go out,
with the same result as before. During his efforts to get out, he saw
the packet-boat, and putting the bow towards her he had no difficulty in
reaching her.
At 7 a. m., the commander sent the pilot to examine a harbor which
was to the west-northwest. He found it useless, because, though it had
sufficient water, the bottom was sticky mud. As Ayala was not in need of
shelter then, he did not enter that harbor, as he was afraid of losing
his anchor in the mud, and also because it was open from the south to
the east, although the wind came from the landward which was about two
leagues from the harbor[48]. He called this harbor "Carmeita," because
in it was a rock resembling a friar of that order. There was in its
vicinity an Indian village, the inhabitants of which came out from their
huts and cried out and made signs for the vessel to go near them. As
the sailors were taking soundings and came near the shore, the Indians
erected a pole, at the top of which was a large number of feathers. The
sailors having no orders to answer them, remained at a distance from the
shore. The Indians, thinking, no doubt, that the sailors were afraid of
them, endeavored to assure them by dropping their bows to the ground,
and after describing a circle in the air with the arrows stuck them in
the sand. The launch came on board again, and soon after, the Indians,
from a point of land near the vessel, talked to the sailors with loud
cries, and although their voices were heard distinctly, they could not
be understood for want of an interpreter. At 9 the launch was sent again
to another harbor to the north, which seemed to be better sheltered and
to have better anchorage[49]. It was so, and when the launch returned at
10, the pilot stated that he found bottom at eight to fourteen brazas,
and the bottom was sticky with mud. At 3 p. m. the vessel sailed towards
the place examined, but a strong current prevented her reaching it. It
was then decided to anchor in fifteen brazas, sandy bottom, and they
stayed there all night, during which time the vessel moved on account of
the bad quality of the anchors.
On the 7th, at 9 a. m., the vessel was started towards a large and
fine-looking harbor which seemed commodious. Soundings were taken, and
the bottom was found at twelve to fourteen brazas. It had been decided
to go to the end of it, but the tide was contrary and it was necessary
to return to the vessel at 1 p. m. Indians from the shore were calling
to the men with loud cries, and the commander decided to send the launch
with the priest, the pilot, and armed men, with orders that they must
not molest the Indians but treat them well and make them presents, for
which purpose the commander gave the men beads and other trinkets and
ordered them to observe good precaution, so that in case the Indians
showed fight they could easily return to the launch, where four armed
men must always remain to protect the retreat. It is true that from the
day when intercourse was first had with the Indians, it was seen how
affable and hospitable they were, showing the greatest desire for the
Spaniards to go to their village, where, they said, they could eat and
sleep. They had already prepared on shore a meal of pinole, bread from
their corn, and tomales of the same. During the time the Spaniards were
with the Indians, they found that the latter repeated the Spanish words
with great facility, and by signs the Spaniards asked the Indians to go
on board the packet boat, but the Indians, also by signs, signified that
until the Spaniards should visit their village, they could not go on
board. After a little while the Spaniards returned to the boat and the
Indians disappeared.
On the 8th, the pilot, with men, was sent in the launch to explore the
bay, and on the 9th returned and made his report.
On the 12th the launch was lowered to look for a better anchorage near
Angel Island, which is the largest in this bay, and many good places
were found. It was also thought a good idea to examine another island,
which was found to be very steep and barren and would not afford shelter
even for the launch. This island was called "Alcatraz"[50] on account of
the abundance of those birds that were on it.
On the 13th the vessel moved to another anchorage with nine brazas of
water at pistol shot of the land. On the 21st, the first pilot, Don Jose
de Canizares, returned from an expedition on which he had been sent a
few days before and made his report. On the same day, the second pilot,
Don Juan B. Aguirre, went, with fresh men, in the launch to try to find
the party which the commander of the presidio had promised to send
to San Francisco by land. The second pilot did not see the party, but
explored an estero which enters the land about twelve leagues[51].
On the 23d fifteen Indians came on a raft and were taken on board, where
they were entertained and given something to eat. They learned how to
ask for bread in Spanish.
From this day to the 6th of September, the explorations of the Bay
of San Francisco continued, and first pilot Don Jose de Canizares was
instructed to make his report and the map of the bay.
On September 7th an attempt was made to go to sea for the return voyage,
but the rudder was injured by a submerged rock on which the current had
carried the vessel.
From this day to September 18th, the time was passed in repairing the
rudder and making preparations for the return voyage, which took place
on that day, going to Monterey, where they arrived the following day.
In order to make the necessary repairs to the ship and pass the equinox
in good shelter, the San Carlos remained in the harbor of Monterey till
October 13, 1775, when she started for San Blas, where she arrived on
November 6th of the same year.
Report of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala Commander of the Packet Boat San
Carlos to Don Antonio Maria Bucareli Viceroy of New Spain On the
Examination of the Port of San Francisco
Your Excellency:--I have finished the orders under which I took command
of the San Carlos, returning to this port of San Blas today, November
6th, after having visited the ports of Monterey and San Francisco.
Although Your Excellency will see in the account of my examination,
together with the pilot, Don Jose Canizares' report of his examination
and the map he made of this port, the nature of the work done. I will,
notwithstanding in this, give a brief account, that shows the port of
San Francisco to be one of the best that I have seen on this coast from
Cape Horn.
After one hundred and one days of navigation, I arrived at the harbor
of Monterey, where I had to remain till July 27th, discharging the cargo
and making some repairs necessary for the safety of my vessel. On July
27th, I started in search of the Port of San Francisco, where I arrived
on the night of August 5th. I remained there forty-four days, inspecting
by myself, or by my pilot, with all possible accuracy, everything that
pertains to this matter.
It is true that this port is good, not only for the beautiful harmony
that offers to the view, but because it does not lack very good fresh
water, wood, and ballast in abundance. Its climate though cold, is
healthful and free from those troublesome fogs which we had daily in
Monterey, because the fogs here hardly reach the entrance of the port,
and once inside the harbor, the weather is very clear. To these many
advantages is to be added the best: and this is that the heathen Indians
around this port are so constant in their good friendship and so gentle
in their manners, that I received them with pleasure on board several
times, and I had the sailors frequently visit with them on land; so
that from the first to the last day, they remained the same in their
behavior. This made me present them with trinkets, beads, and biscuit;
the last they learned to ask for clearly in our language.
There is no doubt that this good friendship was a great comfort to us,
enabling us to make with less fear the reconnaissance that was
ordered of me. Although in a letter written by Your Excellency to my
predecessor, Don Miguel Manrique, dated January 2d, I read that it was
possible we might find in San Francisco the land expedition undertaken
by Captain Don Juan de Anza; I did not on that account refuse the offer
of another small land expedition which the Captain of Monterey, Don
Fernando de Rivera, made me. I did not see either of them while I
remained in that port, but I did not, on that account, postpone the
reconnaissance. I could not do all of this in person, because I was
convalescing from a serious wound in my right foot, received April 3d
by the accidental discharge of a double-barrel pistol, which Don Miguel
Manrique had left loaded in the cabin. Notwithstanding this, I am
satisfied that Don Jose Canizares executed with his usual ability
everything I entrusted to his care. I therefore state to Your Excellency
(in order that the merit of his work may not be ignored), that as long
as he was with me, he acted not only with his usual honesty, but showed
such great talent in his profession that in the midst of my troubles I
found him one to entrust with the more delicate points of my duty.
On September 7th, I decided to leave the Port of San Francisco, as I
considered the reconnaissance completed, and in doing this, having no
wind, I was carried by the strong current against some rocks, injuring
the rudder and breaking two female and one male bolts. This obliged me
to enter a cove, where I repaired as well as possible the accident, and
again tried to sail forth, a light breeze from the north (the only one I
noticed in the forty-four days) aiding the sailing. On the 18th, because
the rudder was injured, and those who had been on this coast before
had warned me that at this time of year the weather was very severe,
I determined to pass the Equinox at Monterey, and arrived there on
the 19th. At this port I found the frigate Santiago. The schooner came
October 7th, and I left for San Blas on the 13th, where I am sick of my
foot, but always desirous to obey Your Excellency.
I pray the Lord to keep the life of Your Excellency many years.
San Blas, November 9, 1775.
Juan Manuel de Ayala.
To His Excellency, Bailio Frey Don Antonio Maria Bucareli.
Description of the Newly-discovered Port of San Francisco
Situated in Latitude 37 deg. 53' North, Longitude 17 deg. 10' West of San Blas
By Lieutenant Don Juan Manuel Ayala
Placed about two leagues west-southwest of Point Almejas[52], latitude
37 deg. 42', the following is to be seen: First that it[53] is large, with
two red barrancas[54], and second, that to the north there are three
white rocks at a stone's throw[55]. From that point the coast runs
north-northeast, forming a small harbor in which there are five
submerged rocks close to its shore; above it some white barrancas[56],
ending in a sloping bill which top, to the north, is what is called
Angel Point[57]. This has near it several rocks[58], the furtherest
one a gunshot distant. From this point there is a harbor sufficient
to accommodate any vessel[59], not only on account of its bottom,
but because it is sheltered from all winds excepting those from the
west-southwest. The middle of this harbor is to the northwest, where
a copious creek empties[60]; the point runs northeast 1/4 east. This
harbor, with the one inside of it, which I called San Jose[61], has
been found very good, with the prevailing winds from the south to the
northwest.
From Pt. Almejas to the northwest 1/4 west, four Farallones are
seen, distant about four leagues. The one southernmost looks like a
sugar-loaf. To the northwest 1/4 north, at a distance of about twelve
leagues, a mountain[62] is seen which ends in a low point. According to
the records of Sebastian Vizcaino and coast pilot of Cabrera Bueno,
this is the one called Point Reyes. From this point the coast runs
east-southeast in the shape of a half-moon, open to all winds of the
third quarter and ending in two barrancas at the foot of which a
low point comes out with two submerged rocks. This point was called
Santiago[63], and, with one called Angel de la Guarda, forms the mouth
of the channel of the entrance of the port[64]. Following this shore in
a northeast direction, another harbor is to be found within three
small rocks near the shore which, in case of necessity, may shelter
any vessel. This harbor[65] ends on the north with a large, steep, and
broken point, at the foot of which there is a white farallon to which
and to the point I gave the name of San Carlos[66], and with Point San
Jose, which is distant about half a league, forms the entrance of this
famous port. It is to be borne in mind that any vessel that enters or
leaves this port must take the precaution not to come near San Carlos
Point, because in this place exist violent whirlpools which make useless
the rudder, but must take the middle of the channel or sail near the
shores of San Jose Point.
To the northeast 1/4 north of the middle of the entrance, an island[67]
is seen, distant about one and a half leagues. This island divides
the water of the flood in two channels in which a vessel may anchor,
especially in the one that runs northeast 1/4 north near the island
where water and wood are to be found in abundance. The vicinity of
the island is such good anchorage that a vessel can anchor within a
pistol-shot of the shore.
To the east-northeast of Point San Jose there is a sheltered harbor,
landlocked, with bottom which diminishes gradually to the shore, where
water and some wood are to be found[68]. In this harbor there is no
current, and for that reason, and because it is so near the point I
consider, it one of the best anchorages.
Once Points San Jose and San Carlos have been passed, and taking care to
leave at one side the principal channel, an anchorage can be made at any
place, because it is sheltered from all winds; the only thing to avoid
is the current, which in the principal channel is five miles, and in its
branches three miles.
This report was made to me by Pilot Don Jose Canizares, to whom I
entrusted the examination of the port, because I was seriously sick.
Reconnaissance of the Port of San Francisco, with Map
Report of the Pilot Don Jose de Canizares to Commander Don Juan de Ayala
Translation of a Certified Copy of the Original in the Archives of the
Indies at Seville.
Dear Captain:--During the four times that I made reconnaissance of this
Port, and made its map, I found at the northeast and north-northeast
what is shown on the map and I here describe. To the north-northeast
of Angel Island, distant about a mile, there is a bay running in a
direction north-northwest to south-southwest. The distance between the
points forming said bay, is about two leagues, and the shore line is
about two and a half leagues. To the northwest of the shore there are
three small islands, forming between them and the shore a narrow passage
of shallow water closed to the southwest. This bay is all surrounded
with hills with few trees, which are mostly laurel and oak, but at a
distance to the west-northwest, is visible a wood of what seems to
be pines. In the middle of this bay is standing a high farallon with
submerged rocks around it. On the northeast of it there is sufficient
water for anchorage, as is shown on the map. There is no doubt of its
being good anchorage for vessels, provided they have good cables and
anchors, for they are subject to great stress because of the current,
which at this point, cannot be less than four miles an hour[69].
North-northeast of said bay there is a mouth about two miles wide, where
there are four small white rocks, the two north ones with the two south
ones[70] form a channel of nine brazas depth. From this, one passes
to another bay[71] more spacious, the diameter of which is about eight
leagues, its shape a perfect isosceles triangle; its mouth is divided
into two channels,--one, on the side of the southwest coast, turns to
the northwest at about the distance of a mile and ends in two large
harbors which are situated in the same shore at about four league's
distance from the mouth that communicates with the first bay; from the
northwest point of the furthest harbor to the north of it, distant about
one and a half leagues, in turning a point to the west-northwest, a
large body of water[72] is seen, which I did not examine because the
channel which leads to it is extremely limited, its depth not having
three codos[73] of water; from here to the east-northeast follows a
low-lying island, just above the water level, ending in a division
made by the hills[74]. The other channel, which is roomy and deep, runs
directly in a northeast direction till it reaches the division of the
hills through a canon that runs in the same direction.
All the bay, which is called the round bay (Bahia Redondo), though it
is not shaped that way, is surrounded with steep hills, without trees,
excepting two spots on the slopes fronting the two harbors to the
southwest. The rest of it is arid, rugged, and of a melancholic aspect.
Outside of the channels there is in this bay about five codos of water,
and at low tide two and a half, and in some places it is dry. It is not
difficult to enter this bay, but going out will be difficult on account
of the wind from the southwest. After a careful examination of its
shore, I did not find any fresh water or any signs of it. Standing in
the canon, which is to the northeast, there is a channel[75] a mile and
a half wide, deep and clear. East of its entrance there is a rancheria
of about four hundred souls. I had dealings with them, but did not buy
anything, though I presented them with beads, which you had given me
for that purpose, and some old clothing of mine. Their acquaintance was
useful to my men and to me, as they presented us with exquisite fishes
(amongst them salmon), seeds, and pinole. I had opportunity of visiting
them four times and found them always as friendly as the first time,
noticing in them polite manners, and what is better, modesty and
retirement in the women. They are not disposed to beg, but accept with
good will what is given them, without being impertinent, as are many
others I have seen during the conquest. This Indian village has some
scows or canoes, made of tule, so well constructed and woven that they
caused me great admiration. Four men get in them to go fishing, pushing
with two-ended oars with such speed that I found they went faster than
the launch. These were the only Indians with whom I had communication in
this northern part.