whose honor they had come to establish a royal presidio and mission in
the Port of Monterey, and also the day of the king, Don Carlos III (que
Dios guarde), the holy sacrifice of the mass was celebrated "in this
little valley, beach of the Port (without the least doubt) of my father
San Francisco." The men feasted liberally on the mussels which abounded
on the nearby rocks, and which were pronounced large and good, and,
in better spirits than they had been for some time, they took up their
march at one o'clock in the afternoon. Proceeding a short distance up
the beach, they turned into the mountains on their right, and from the
summit beheld the immense estero o brazo del mar. Then descending into
the Canada de San Andres, they turned to the south and southeast, and
traveling two leagues camped in the canada at the foot of a hill, very
green with low brush, and having a cluster of oaks at its base. The next
two days they traveled down the canada, coasting the estero, which they
could not see for the low hills (lomeria) on their left, noting the
pleasant land with its groves of oak, redwood (palo colorado), and
madrono. They saw the tracks of many deer and also of bears. The Indians
met them with friendly offers of black tamales and atole, which were
gladly received by the half-starved Spaniards. They begged the strangers
to go to their rancherias, but the governor excused himself, saying
that he must go forward, and dismissed them with presents of beads and
trinkets. On the 6th, they reached the end of the canada, which suddenly
turned to the east, and saw that the estero[32] was finished in a
spacious valley. To the canada they gave the name of San Francisco[33].
Traveling a short distance towards the east, they camped on a deep
arroyo, whose waters came down from the sierra and flowed precipitately
into the estero. They were on the San Francisquito creek, near the site
of Stanford University[34].
Having failed to get through to Point Reyes by the ocean beach route,
Portola now sent Ortega around by the contra costa giving him four
days in which to explore the country and find the port containing the
supply-ship.
Ortega with his exploradores, guided by some friendly Indians from the
neighboring rancherias, set out after noon on November 7th and returned
in the night of the 10th. He reported that he had seen no sign of port
or ship, and was convinced he had not understood the information the
Indians had tried to convey to him, and that the port of Monterey could
not be in advance. They also reported that the country they had seen
towards the north and northeast was impassable for the expedition, for
the reason that the Indians had burned the grass and, in addition,
were hostile and would dispute the passage. They said that they had
encountered another immense estero on the northeast (Carquinez Strait),
which also ran far inland and connected with the one on the southeast,
and that to double it would take many leagues of travel[35].
During the absence of the explorers, the people of the expedition were
compelled for want of meat to eat oak acorns, which caused them much
suffering from indigestion and fever.
Portola called a council of officers, on November 11th, to determine the
best course to pursue. The decision was unanimous to return to the Point
of Pines and renew the search for the elusive Puerto de Monterey, which
they believed they had left behind. This was at once acted upon, and the
command took up the march in the afternoon of that day, returning by
the route of its coming, and on the 27th camped in sight of the Point of
Pines at a little lake of muddy water. They had partly subsisted on wild
geese which they shot, and on mussels gathered from the rocks of the
coast. The following day, November 28th, they moved across the Point of
Pines and camped in the canada of the Carmelo, where was plenty of wood
and good water from the river. After giving his men a rest, the governor
sent ten soldiers, under command of Rivera, with six of the Indian
pioneers, who undertook to guide them by the coast trails, with
instructions to thoroughly explore the coast to the south and see if the
Port of Monterey was concealed in some "rincon" of the Sierra de Santa
Lucia.
The exploring party returned on Monday, December 4th, at night. They
were tired out with their travels over the rough mountain trails, and
they reported that no port of Monterey existed south of their camp; that
the mountains belonged to the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and that there was
no passage along the shore.
Vizcaino had said that Monterey was just north of the Sierra de Santa
Lucia. "It is all that can be desired for commodiousness and as a
station for ships making the voyage to the Philippines, sailing whence
they make a landfall on this coast. This port is sheltered from all
winds * * * and is thickly settled with people, whom I found to be of
gentle disposition, peaceable, and docile; * * * they have flax like
that of Castile, and hemp, and cotton,"[36] etc.
The commander knew not what to think. What should be a great port,
protected from all winds, was but an ensenada; what should be the
Rio Carmelo was but an arroyo; what should be great lakes were but
lagunillas; "and where, too, were the people, so intelligent and docile,
who raised flax and hemp and cotton?" Costanso says that in their entire
journey, they found no country so thinly populated, nor any people
more wild and savage than the few natives whom they met here. It is
not strange that Portola failed to recognize, in the broad ensenada,
Vizcaino's Famoso Puerte de Monterey.
The situation of the command was becoming very grave. The food supply
was almost gone. They had killed a mule, but only the Indians and the
Catalonians would eat it. The commander called a council of officers, on
December 6th, and told them the condition of affairs. They had not found
the port they had come in search of, he said, and had no hope of finding
it or the vessel that should have succored them; they had but fourteen
half sacks of flour left; winter was upon them, the cold was becoming
excessive, and snow was beginning to fall in the mountains. He invited
free discussion, but postponed the decision until the next day, that all
might have time for reflection. On December 7th, after hearing mass,
the junta again met. Some were for remaining where they were until the
provisions were entirely consumed, and then retreat, relying on the
mules for food during the journey to San Diego; others thought it better
to divide the party, one-half to remain and the other return to San
Diego. Both projects were carefully discussed, and both presented
difficulties. The prevailing sentiment seemed to favor a return, and the
governor announced his determination. They would return to San Diego
at once, he said, for if the snow should close the mountain passes, the
whole expedition would be lost.
A violent storm arose in the afternoon, which lasted until the night of
December 9th, delaying the march.
On Sunday, December 10th, they began the retreat from Monterey. Before
leaving Carmelo Bay, they set up a large cross on a little hill on the
shore of the ensenadita, and on it, cut into the wood, the legend: "Dig;
at the foot you will find a writing." A message was put into a
bottle and buried at the foot of the cross. It gave the facts of the
expedition, its commander, date of starting, the dates of entering the
channel of Santa Barbara, of passing Point Concepcion, of the passage
of the Santa Lucia mountains, of the sight of Punta de Pinos, of Point
Reyes, etc.
"The expedition desired to reach Point Reyes, but some esteros
intervened which ran far inland, which required a long journey to go
around, and other difficulties (the chief of which was the want of
provisions), made it necessary for us to return, believing that the
Port of Monterey might perhaps be near the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and
thinking that we might have passed it without observing it. We left the
estero of San Francisco on our return on the 11th of November. We passed
the Punta de Ano Nuevo on the 19th of said month, and reached the second
time this Port and Ensenada de Pinos on the 27th of the same."
It states that from that day to this they have made diligent search for
the port of Monterey, but in vain, and now, despairing of finding it,
their provisions nearly gone, they return to San Diego. Then follows
the latitude at various points as observed by Costanso. It requests the
commanders of the San Jose or San Antonio, if they, or either of them,
should be informed of the contents of the letter and the condition of
the expedition, to sail down the coast as near the land as possible,
that the expedition might sight and obtain succor from them.
The march that day was across the Point of Pines, one league and a half,
and they camped on the shore of Monterey Bay, where they erected another
cross with an inscription announcing their departure. On the 11th, they
ascended the Salinas and began to retrace the route of their coming.
They killed many geese, which relieved their necessities somewhat, and
on the 21st were clear of the Santa Lucia mountains. The hungry soldiers
stole flour, and to prevent further theft, the comandante divided
the remainder among them. On the 28th the command was stuck fast in a
mudhole near San Luis Obispo, and were unable to say mass, though it
was a feast day[37]. On January 3d, they passed Point Concepcion. Here,
among the Channel Indians, food was abundant, their severe trials were
over, and the health of the command improved daily. Instead of following
up the Santa Clara river, they crossed the Santa Susana mountains,
into the San Fernando valley, and followed down the Los Angeles river,
crossed the Santa Ana, January 18th, and reached San Diego, January 24,
1770, with the command in good health and without the loss of a man,
"with the merit of having been compelled to eat the flesh of male and
female mules, and with not having found the Port of Monterey, which we
judged to have been filled up by the great sand dunes which were in the
place where we had expected to find it."[38]
Portola found a joyful welcome at the little camp at San Diego. Many had
died, and Junipero and Father Parron were just recovering from scurvy.
No tidings were yet received from the San Antonio. The commander made a
careful inventory of supplies, and reserved enough to march to Velicata
in case the San Antonio did not appear when the remainder should be
exhausted. This, he calculated, would be a little after the middle of
March, and the 20th of that month was fixed as the date of departure,
very much to the disappointment of the priests. On February 11th Rivera
was sent to Velicata with a guard of nineteen or twenty soldiers, to
bring up the cattle and supplies that had been left there.
After sundown of the day before that appointed for the departure, a
sail appeared in the distance. It was the San Antonio, just in time to
prevent the abandonment of San Diego. She brought abundant supplies,
and Portola prepared for a second expedition in search of the Port of
Monterey. Captain Vila of the San Carlos declared, when the details of
the search were related to him, that the place where they erected the
second cross was the long-lost Port of Monterey.
On April 16th the San Antonio sailed for Monterey, carrying Junipero,
Costanso, Prat, and a cargo of stores for the new mission. On the 17th,
Portola set out by land with Fages, twelve Catalan volunteers, seven
soldados de cuera, Crespi, two muleteers, and five natives. At San Diego
was left Vila with his mate and five sailors on the San Carlos, Fathers
Parron and Gomez, with Sergeant Ortega and eight soldados de cuera as
guard, and Rivera arrived in July with over eighty mules laden with
supplies, and one hundred and sixty head of cattle.
Portola followed the same route that he took on the retreat from
Monterey, and on May 24th arrived at the Ensenada Grande under Punta de
Pinos, near the cross they had erected, December 10th. Selecting a place
for the camp, Portola took Fages, Crespi, and a soldier for guard, and
went to the cross to see if any vessel had visited the spot. They found
around the cross a ring of arrows stuck in the ground, some of which
were decked with feathers; others had fish and meat attached to them,
while at the foot of the cross was a small pile of shell-fish. As
Portola, Fages, and Crespi walked along the beach and looked out over
the bay and noted its calm and placid waters, with its swimming seals
and spouting whales, they broke forth with one voice, "This is the Port
of Monterey which we have sought. It is exactly as reported by Sebastian
Vizcaino and Cabrera Bueno."[39]
Remembering the good water at the camp on the Rio del Carmelo, Portola
ordered the expedition to Carmelo Bay by direct line, while he, with
Fages and Crespi, proceeded around the Point of Pines. They found it
well covered with pine trees, many of them large enough for masts of a
ship. They also came upon a grove of cypress at a point beyond (Cypress
Point), and arrived at camp after a walk of four good leagues. Here they
awaited the arrival of the San Antonio.
On May 31st the paquebot was sighted near Point Pinos. The soldiers made
signals, to which the ship replied with her guns, and before night had
dropped her anchor in Monterey Bay, which was pronounced by the sailors
to be a most famous port.
On the 3d of June, 1770, under a shelter of branches near the oak where,
in 1602, Vizcaino's Carmelite friars had celebrated mass, Don Gaspar de
Portola, with his officers, soldiers, and people of the land expedition,
Fray Junipero Serra and Fray Juan Crespi, Don Juan Perez, captain of the
San Antonio, Don Miguel del Pino, his second in command, together with
the crew, assembled to establish a presidio and mission. The father
president chanted the mass and preached from the Gospel, while the
musical deficiency was made good by repeated discharges from the guns
of the San Antonio and volleys from the muskets of the soldiers. At the
conclusion of the religious ceremonies, Don Gaspar de Portola, governor
of the Californias, took possession of the country in the name of his
majesty Don Carlos III, King of Spain, and the presidio and mission of
San Carlos de Borromeo de Monterey were founded and established, the
first presidio and second mission in California.
In accord with the orders of the visitador-general, Portola now
delivered to Lieutenant Fages, as comandante of California, the command
of the new establishments, sailed on the San Antonio, July 9th, for San
Blas, and California knew him no more.
DATA REGARDING DON GASPAR DE PORTOLA AFTER HE LEFT CALIFORNIA
By E. J. Molera
Portola and Costanso sailed, on July 9, 1770, for Mexico, to give to
the viceroy an account of their discoveries. Costanso remained in the
capital and took part in several engineering works, among others, the
map of the Valley of Mexico and its drainage. Diligent search instituted
by the writer in Mexico and Spain regarding Portola's further history,
has so far discovered little beyond the fact that the commander's
return to the capital was followed by promotion from Captain to
Lieutenant-Colonel in the Royal Spanish Army, and his appointment as
Governor of Puebla, February 23, 1777.
In the municipal archives of the city of Puebla, on page 33 of the folio
covering the years 1776-1783, is the following description of Portola's
taking possession of the office as Governor of that city and state:
"Possession of Governor Portola."
"In the session (meeting of February 23d, 1777), the council saw a royal
title of Political and Military Governor of this city granted by his
Majesty to Senor Don Gaspar de Portola, Lieutenant-Colonel of the Royal
Army, and also a superior order of his Excellency the Viceroy, Governor,
and Captain General of this New Spain, in which is stated that said
title has been forwarded."
"The President of the Council, standing and uncovered, took the title in
his hand and kissed it and put it over his head, being a letter from
the king, our master, and said that he would obey and he did obey its
contents and in its provisions it was ordered that Lieutenant-Colonel
Don Gaspar de Portola be given possession of said office, and for that
purpose, said noble corporation went out with the heralds to bring him
to this hail of sessions, and when he was in, a notary-public having
certified to his identity, he swore to use faithfully and well the
office of Governor, doing justice, punishing, and not burdening the
poor with excessive taxes; to keep and cause to be kept, the rights,
privileges, royal decrees and ordinances, etc."
"Having signed the oath, the president gave him the cane of Royal
justice, by which the act of possession was completed."
In the same volume many decrees and ordinances are signed by Portola as
Governor of Puebla.
That in the year 1779, Portola was still Governor of Puebla is proved by
two original manuscripts in possession of the writer. One is a circular
official notice to all the head authorities of Mexico, announcing the
death of Viceroy Frey Don Antonio Bucareli y Ursua, and shown herewith;
the other is a letter of Don Gaspar de Portola, dated April 17th, 1779.
Letter from the Viceroy of New Spain to Don Julian de Arriaga, Giving
an Account of the arrival at San Blas of the Packet Boat San Carlos,
Returning from the Survey of the Port of San Francisco. Document
Obtained from the Archives of the Indies, Seville.
"My Dear Sir:"
"By courier sent to me from San Blas, I have just learned that the royal
packet-boat San Carlos, under command of Lieutenant of the frigate Don
Juan Manual Ayala, which with provisions and goods sailed for the harbor
of Monterey, thence to the port of San Francisco, anchoring on the 6th
inst. at San Blas."
"In the copies which I send herewith, of the extensive examination made
by this officer and his pilot, Don Jose Canizares, your Excellency will
see, in detail, all that was found advantageous, and the news obtained
gives knowledge of all that that vast port contains and the facilities
that is has to invernate[40] vessels. The docility and gentle manners
of the heathen that live in its vicinity inspire hopes in the utility
of the plan, on which I had previously determined, of colonizing this
land."
"The letter of this officer, a copy of which is also enclosed, confirms
everything, extolling the grandeur of the view of the port, the water,
wood, and ballast with which it abounds, and although the climate is
rather cold, it is healthy and free from the fogs found in Monterey."
"He gives an account of what happened on his return, and praises the
merit of the pilot, Don Jose Canizares, in discharging the commission
entrusted to him, and he recommends him to my attention, which I reserve
to that of the King; at the same time recommending to Your Excellency
that you remind His Majesty that this pilot is one of the most useful
that the Department of San Blas has, and that in the voyages he has made
has always shown the same honor, conduct, and intelligence as on the
one just finished with such advantage to the service, because of the
information and knowledge he has shown in the discharge of his duty."
"For his reward, I consider him worthy of the royal bounty, as well as
Lieutenant of frigate, Don Juan Manuel de Ayala, for his part in such
important work."
"That the Lord may keep you from harm for many years is my wish."
"Exm deg.. Sr."
"Your most obedient servant who kisses Your Excellency's hands,"
"Bailio Frey D. Antonio Bucareli y Ursua."
"Mexico, November 26th, 1775."
"To His Excellency Sr. Bailio Frey Don Julian de Arriaga."
Causes that Decided the Government of Spain to Send an Expedition by
Sea to Ascertain if there were any Russian Settlements on the Coast of
California, and to Examine the Port of San Francisco.
Father Junipero Serra had difficulty in obtaining from Commandant Fages
the soldiers necessary to found the missions that were projected and
notwithstanding his old age, he decided to go to the capital of Mexico
to lay before the authorities his troubles. He sailed from San Diego
in the mail boat San Carlos October 19, 1772, but, stricken by fever in
Guadalajara, did not reach Mexico till February 16, 1773.
Viceroy Bucareli, then in command of the colony, made the orders he
considered necessary for California, but his orders would have had but
little effect or would have followed the slow process of all official
business, had not an outside incident given them force.
Count de Lacy, then Minister Plenipotentiary of Spain to St. Petersburg,
communicated to the court in Madrid, that the Russians were exploring
the coast of America. He corroborated his statement with copies of the
newspapers of the Russian capital[41]. This news with the corroborating
proofs was sent to Bucareli with the Royal edicts of April 11th and
September 23, 1773.
The result of this information was to give a better organization to the
maritime department of San Blas and better regulations for California.
It was also ordered that a settlement should be made at San Francisco;
that better means of communication be established between San Diego
and Monterey, and that an expedition should be sent to ascertain if the
Russians had made settlements on the coast of California.
THE LOG OF THE SAN CARLOS
Alias Toison De Oro (Golden Fleece)
Under Command of Lieutenant of Frigate of the Royal Navy Don Juan Manuel
de Ayala
From the Port of San Blas to the Port of San Francisco
The First Ship to Enter the Port of San Francisco. Transcript of a
Certified Copy of the Original, now in the Archives of the Indies, at
Seville, Spain[42].
On the 19th of March, 1775, Lieutenant of Frigate, Don Juan Manuel de
Ayala had the schooner under his command anchored near the white rock in
the harbor of San Blas, waiting the sailing of the frigate Santiago to
the west coast of California, when the commander of the expedition, Don
Bruno de Ezeta, ordered him to deliver to Lieutenant of Frigate, Don
Juan de la Bodega y Cuadra, the command of his schooner and take command
of the packet boat, San Carlos, as her captain, Don Miguel Manrique, was
sick and unable to make the voyage. Ayala obeyed the order and waited
until the morning of the 21st, for the return of the launch which
carried his predecessor to San Blas. He made everything ready on board
to follow the frigate and schooner and he asked the commander of the
expedition, Don Bruno de Ezeta, to take in his frigate some brown sugar
and provisions which he could not accommodate in his boat except on deck
where they were liable to be damaged.
At 3 p. m. of the 21st he sailed from the anchorage of San Blas with the
wind east-northeast and on the following day came in sight of Isabela
Island, lying about five miles to the west. On the 23rd he came in
sight of the Maria Islands and saw the frigate and schooner going to the
southeast of the islands, where he lost sight of them. Contrary winds
and calm weather prevented the San Carlos from making any considerable
progress. On the 26th, Ayala sent his pilot to see if he could obtain
some water to replace that which had been consumed[43]. The pilot could
not make a landing and consequently did not obtain any water. On April
2d, he saw Mazatlan and the packetboat Concepcion. The following day he
came near the Concepcion, and the captain informed him that he had on
board the governor of California[44]. From the Concepcion Ayala obtained
six kegs of water. On the 4th of April a serious accident happened to
the commander. When his predecessor was taken sick, he had a number of
loaded pistols. Ayala ordered them placed where they could not injure
anyone. In doing this, one fell and was discharged, the bullet entering
the commander's foot between the second and third toes, coming out under
the big toe. This accident caused him to keep his bed.
On the 7th of April, Cape San Lucas was seen to the north, distant about
two leagues. On the 8th, Cape San Lucas was seen to the west, about
twelve leagues distant. On account of contrary winds, the progress
northward was very slow. On June 22d, while they were warming some pitch
to calk the launch, it took fire, but was extinguished before great
damage was done. On the same day indications of land were noted and some
whales were seen, which the sailors say is the first sign of land. On
the following day they saw some seals, which, according to the sailors,
was the second sign of land. On the 24th, they saw some ducks, which,
they say, is proof positive of land being near. On the same day land was
sighted at 4 p. m.; the North Farallones of San Francisco were seen to
the north and Point Ano Nuevo to the southeast. At 7 p. m., the
South Farallones were seen at a distance of about two leagues to the
northeast. The variation of the needle was observed and found to be 13 deg.
E.
Next day, at 9 a. m., the fog having lifted, land was seen and Point Ano
Nuevo was recognized to the northwest about three leagues distant. At
noon the sun's altitude was taken, and the latitude found to be 36 deg. 58'.
At 3 p. m. they took bearings to make Point Pinos, but this point could
not be seen on account of the fog. At 4 p. m. the fog lifted, and at
5 p. m. they saw the point which protects the harbor of Monterey. The
variation of the needle was observed and found to be 12 deg. 58' E. They had
some difficulty in finding good anchorage, but finally did so on a sandy
bottom.
On the 26th of June, Commander Ayala sent his launch on shore with mail
and documents, and on its return the vessel was made fast.