THE MONTENEGRIN FRONT ON THE DRINA
When Jan awoke it was dark, and he was with difficulty rousing Jo when
suddenly a voice howled through the keyhole that the horses were
waiting. Jan grabbed his watch--5 a.m.; but the horses had been ordered
for six. Hastily chewing dry biscuit, Jan jumped into his clothes and
ran down. There was a small squat youth with a flabby Mongolian face
hovering between the yard door and the inn, and Jan following him
discovered three horses saddled and waiting. He hastily ordered white
coffee to be prepared, and ran up again to hurry Jo and to pack. He
rushed down again to pay the bill, but found that the Montenegrin Red
Cross had charged itself with everything, very generously, so he ran up
once more to nag at Jo. The secretary, whom we called "the shadow," had
not appeared, so we inquired from the squint-eyed youth, received many
"Bogamis" as answer, but nothing definite; so we decided, as it was now
past six, that he had changed his mind and had sent this chinee-looking
fellow, whom we named "Bogami," in his place.
Jan's horse was like an early "John" drawing of a slender but antiquated
siren, all beautiful curves. Jo's would in England long ago have taken
the boat to Antwerp; her saddle stood up in a huge hump behind and had a
steeple in front, and was covered by what looked like an old bearskin
hearthrug in a temper, one stirrup like a fire shovel was yards too
long, the other far too short, and were set well at the back.
"What queer horses!" we remarked.
"Bogami," said Bogami; "when there are no horses these are good horses,
Bogami."
"Where is the secretary?"
"Bogami nesnam" (don't know).
From Uzhitze we had good horses, from Prepolji moderate, now these;
imagination staggered at what we should descend to if we did a fourth
lap to Cettinje, for instance, but we climbed up. Jo with her queerly
placed stirrups perched forward something like a racing cyclist.
Bogami's horse was innocent of garniture, save for a piece of chain
bound about its lower jaw, but he slung his great coat over the saw edge
of its backbone and leapt on. He must have had a coccyx of cast iron. We
had to kick the animals into a walk--there were fifty kilometres to go.
After a while we began to wonder if it would not be quicker to get off
and foot it, but we did catch up and eventually pass a Red Cross Turk.
We saw a soldier striding ahead. By kicks and shouts we raised a sprint
along the level road; we drew even with him, and then began a race; on
the uphills we beat him, on the downhills he caught up and passed in
front. He was a taciturn fellow, and save that he was going to Fochar we
learnt nothing about him. On a long uphill we gained a hundred yards,
and by supreme efforts held our gains. He eventually disappeared from
view, and we were rejoicing at our speed when we realized that the
telegraph wires were no longer with us--one can always find the nearest
way by following the telegraph, for governments do not waste wire. Jan
looked for them and found them streaming away to the left, and among
them, well up on the horizon, our enemy the soldier.
"Look," we cried to Bogami, "isn't that the shortest way? The wires go
there."
"Bogami," he replied; "wires can, horses can't, bogami."
There is a fine military road to Chainitza, made by the Austrians, but
it remains a white necklace on the hills, almost an ornament to the
landscape. No one seemed to use it, while our old Turkish road which
snaked and twisted up and down was pitted with the hoofs of countless
horses. It is a stony path, and our animals were shod with flat plates
instead of horseshoes; they slipped and slithered, and we wondered if in
youth they had ever had lessons in skating.
There was a heavy mist, but it began to break up, and through peepholes
one caught fleeting glimpses of distant patterning of field and forest,
and hints of great hills. The sun showed like a great pale moon on the
horizon. There were other travellers on the old Turkish trail, horsemen,
Bosnians in great dark claret-coloured turbans, or Montenegrins in their
flat khaki caps, peasants in dirty white cotton pyjamas, thumping before
them animals with pack-swollen sides, soldiers only recognizable from
the peasants by the rifle on their backs, and Turks; most were jolly
fellows, and hailed us cheerfully.
From a house by the roadside burst a sheep, followed by five men. They
chased the animal down the road whistling to it. We had never heard that
whistling was effectual with sheep, and certainly it did not succeed
very well in this instance.
Somewhere beyond this house Jan's inside began to cry for food, two
biscuits and a cup of _café au lait_ being little upon which to found a
long day's riding. He tentatively tried a "compressed luncheon." Its
action was satisfactory, but whether it resulted from real nourishment
contained in the black-looking glue, or whether it came from a sticking
together of the coating of the stomach, we have not yet decided. Jo
preferred rather to endure the hunger.
Bogami had quite a charm; for instance, he appreciated our troubles with
the beasts we were riding. Jo's horse stumbled a good deal on the
downhills; her saddle was very uncomfortable and so narrow that she
could never change her position. We came into most magnificent scenery,
the beauty of which made a deep impression even upon our empty selves.
There were deep green valleys, rising to peaks and hills which faded
away ridge behind ridge of blue into the distant Serbian mountains,
great pine woods of delicate drooping trees which came down and folded
in on every side, and though it was almost September there were
strawberries still ripe at the edge of the road, little red luscious
blobs amidst the green.
Metalka at one o'clock, and we were on the real Montenegrin frontier.
There are two Metalkas, a Montenegrin and an Austrian, and they are
divided one from the other by a strip of land some ten yards across
which rips the village in two like the track of a little cyclone. Bogami
directed us to a shanty labelled "Hotel of Europe." A large woman was
blocking the door; we demanded food, she took no notice. Hunger was
clamouring within us. We demanded a second time. She waved her hand
majestically to her rival in Austria, at whose tables Montenegrin
officers were sitting with coffee.
An officer greeted us.
"We had expected you yesterday," he said.
We waved to the horses.
"No horses."
"That is a pity," he murmured. "You see, there was something to eat
yesterday!"
In spite of his pessimism we got eggs and wine. Bogami had a large
crowd, to whom he lectured, and we sent him out some eggs.
After lunch we pushed on, in conquered territory. To Chainitza they said
was one hour and a half, it proved nearer three.
We joined some peasants, and they told us that they were going to the
great festival. The old mother halted at a sort of sheep pen by the
roadside; when she rejoined us she was wiping her eyes.
"That was my brother," she explained; "he was killed in the war;" for it
is the custom to erect memorial stones by the roadside. Many of these
are very quaint, sometimes painted with a soldier, or else with the
rifle, sword, pistols and medals of the deceased.
Chainitza lies in a backwater, where the deep valley makes a sudden
bend. When we came to it the sun was in our eyes, and halfway between
the crest and the river the town seemed to float in a bluish mist; two
white mosques stood out against the trees, and the roof of one was not
one dome, but many like an inverted egg frier, or almost as though it
was boiling over.
We were stopped at the entry by a sentry.
"Where are you going?"
"To the Russian Hospital."
He took us in charge and led us, in spite of protestations, to the
hotel. A man in a shabby frock-coat received us, and Jo, mistaking him
for the innkeeper, clamoured once more for the Russians. The shabby man
explained that he was the Prefect, and that this was a State reception.
We began to be awed by our own dignity. We explained to him that the
Shadow had changed his mind and had sent Bogami instead.
Bogami brought our knapsacks to our room, where he was immobilized by
the sight of himself in the looking-glass of the wardrobe; probably he
had never seen such a thing before, and he goggled at it. He at last
backed slowly from the room.
We rested a while, then descended to find--the Shadow.
He was rather hurt with us, and wanted to know why the ---- we had gone
off without him. We explained, compared watches, and found that Jan's
was an hour too fast. The poor Shadow had been chasing us on a borrowed
horse, with our permissions to travel in his pocket, and wildly hoping
that he would catch us up before we were arrested as spies.
We had tea with the Russians in a little arbour on the roadside, and
chewed sweets which had just arrived from Petrograd, having been three
months on the journey, but none the worse for that. Many officers came,
amongst them the husband of the little Russian girl we had met at
Prepolji. They all seemed to be Voukotitches, and at last the Sirdar
himself honoured us. He is a huge man, and yet seemed to take up more
room than his size warrants. He has a flat, almost plate-like face, with
pallid blue eyes which seemed to focus some way beyond the object of his
regard. Were his moustache larger he would be rather like Lord
Kitchener, and he was very pleased at the obvious compliment. He poses a
little, moves seldom but suddenly, and shoots his remarks as though
words of command. He was very kind to us, and was immensely astonished
at Jo's Serbian, holding up his hands and saying "Kako" at every one of
her speeches. He suggested that poor Bogami should be beaten, but we
begged him off. Captain Voukotitch, the husband of a day, was appointed
to be our guide for the morrow--because Jo spoke Serbian.
After tea we went up to the bubbly mosque, which was in reality the
Greek church. We entered a large gate; on the one side of a yard was the
church, and on the other a big two-storied rest-house, where one could
lodge while paying devotions or doing pilgrimages. Its long balconies
were filled with country folk all come for the festival, and who were
feasting and laughing as though the war did not exist. The courtyard was
filled with men and women in Bosnian costumes, white and dark red
embroideries. Through the open door of the church one could see the
silhouettes of the peasants bowing before the Ikons and relics. It was
almost dark, and one man began to play a little haunting melody upon a
wooden pipe, but though they linked arms and shuffled their feet, the
young men did not dance.
At supper the Shadow revealed a quaint sense of humour, and so to bed.
The next morning was lovely, and we started at seven with the youngest
Voukotitch and the others. Some officers had lent us their horses, and
Voukotitch had proudly produced his English saddle for Jo. On the road
the spirit of mischief entered him.
"You can ride all right," he said; "wouldn't you like to go to the
nearest machine-gun to the Austrian lines?"
"Rather," said Jo.
"You'll have to do some stiff riding, though. I know the major, and he
is bored to death. He'll let us."
"But what about the bullets?" said the Shadow.
In time the major was produced, emerging from a cottage by the roadside,
other officers with him, and we had a merry coffee party in an arbour.
One told Jo that he was a lawyer. The few Montenegrins who had the
misfortune to be educated were not allowed to serve at the front, but he
had been lucky enough through influence to be allowed to take a
commission. He had not seen much serious fighting, however, as no move
had been made for several months.
Then we tackled the hills. "Come along," said the major, cheerfully; and
his horse's nose went down and its tail went up, and off it slid
downhill. We had seen the Italian officers do such things on the
cinematograph, but little thought that we should be in the same
position. We supposed it would be all right. Jo's horse became nearly
vertical, and she sat back against its tail. Jan followed. Sometimes a
sheet of rock was across the path--then we slid; sometimes the sand
became very soft--we slid again. Then a muddy bit, and the horse
squelched down on his hind quarters.
Here we met a Serbian captain who was in charge of the battery. He was
very lonely, and delighted to have a chance to talk, and he talked hard
all day, showed us a neat reservoir his men had built, explained to us
that beautiful uniforms were coming from Russia soon for the weirdly
garbed beings who were guarding the hills, and asked us to lunch behind
the trenches under a canopy of boughs.
While lunch was being prepared he took us round his artillery, and into
his observation station on the top of a crooked tree. Below us we could
see the river Dreina--on the other side of which was Gorazhda, held by
the Austrians--and the fortified hills behind.
It seemed impossible that this wide peaceful scene was menacing with a
threat of death, yet at intervals one could hear a faint "pop! pop!" as
though far-away giants were holding feast and opening great champagne
bottles. Away in the hills could be seen an encampment of white tents,
which caused a mild excitement, for they had not been there the day
before, and we were told that they were quite out of range.
During lunch the youngest Voukotitch tempted the major--who was in
splendid mood--suggesting that it was rather tame to go home after
having come within mere bowing distance of the Austrians, and that a few
stray bullets would not incommode us.
The major saw reason fairly quickly, so we bestrode our horses again and
continued our switchback course. At an open space where the Austrians
could shoot at us if they wished we had to plunge down the hill quickly,
keeping a distance of one hundred yards from each other.
The little Shadow prudently got off his horse and used its body as a
shield.
We banged at the door of a cottage, and a young lieutenant came out;
somebody said he was nineteen and a hero.
[Illustration: SERB AND MONTENEGRIN OFFICERS ON THE DRINA.]
[Illustration: A CONCEALED GUN EMPLACEMENT ON THE DRINA.]
Here we left our horses and began to scramble through brambles along a
narrow path, climbing up the back of a little hill on the crest of which
were the machine guns. Just before we got to the top we plunged into a
tunnel which bored through the hill; at the end was the gun. The hero
scrambled in, wriggled the gun about and explained. He invited Jo to
shoot. She squashed past him; there was a knob at the back of the gun
on which she pressed her thumbs, and she immediately wanted another pair
with which to stop her ears. The gun jammed suddenly. The hero pulled
the belt about, and Jo set it going once more.
The Austrian machine guns answered back and kept this up, so Jo pressed
the knob again and yet again. Then we got into the trenches above.
Whenever Jo popped her head over the trenches for a good look there were
faint reports from the mountain opposite. One or two bullets whizzed
over our heads, and we realized that they were aiming at Jo's big white
hat.
Jan climbed down the hill and took snap-shots of Gorazhda; the enemy got
a couple of pretty near shots at him.
When the Montenegrins thought this sport was becoming monotonous they
remembered the business of the day. A big house in Gorazhda was said to
be full of Hungarian officers, and they wanted to get the range of this
with one of the big guns. This decision had been made a day or two
before with much deliberation. This they thought the State could afford.
The precious shell was brought out, and every one fondled it.
Men were called out and huge preparations were made for sighting and
taking aim. We scuttled round with field glasses, and finally stood on
tiptoe behind branches on a mound by the side of the gun. There were
many soldiers fussing in the dug-out, and at last they pulled the
string.
"Goodness! Now we've done it," Jo thought, as the mountains sent back
the fearful report in decreasing echoes. We seemed to wait an eternity,
and then "something white" happened far beyond the village.
The officers looked at each other with long faces. "A bad miss--the
expense."
We felt the resources of the Montenegrin Empire were tottering. Awful!
Could they afford another?
Finally, with great courage, they decided that it was better to spend
two shells on getting a decent aim than to lose one for nothing. The
terrific bang went off again, and this time the "something white"
happened right on the roof of the house. The Hungarian officers all ran
out, and the machine guns below jabbered at them. Nobody was killed as
far as we know, but every one was content and delighted.
Sunset was approaching, and we rode away quickly, only stopping once to
drag a reluctant old Turk from the mountain side and make him sing to
the accompaniment of a one-stringed goosla. He hated to do it as all
his best songs were about triumphant Mahommedans crushing Serbs, and of
course he couldn't sing those.
He sat grumpily cross-legged on the ground, encircled by our horses,
droning a song of two notes, touching the string quickly with the flat
lower part of his fingers.
We left him very suddenly because the darkness comes quickly in those
hills, so we made for the high-road as hard as we could.
We rode fast to the Colonel's cottage, sat down to the dinner table,
which was decked with pale blue napkins, and a fine-looking old
Voukotitch, an ex-M.P. in national costume, acted as butler. In spite of
his seventy odd years he had joined the army as a common soldier. He
refused all invitations to sit with us, for he knew his place. The young
husband was his nephew, and they kissed fondly on leave-taking.
We rode back in the moonlight. At one spot on the road was a sawmill,
and the huge white pine logs lying all about looked like the fallen
columns of some ruined Athenian temple. We tried to enjoy the moment,
and to brush aside the awful thought that we must remount Rosinante and
Co. next day.
The Shadow was terribly puffed up about his feat. The following morning
as we were sketching in the town, an officer approached respectfully.
"His excellency the Sirdar invites you to supper," he said.
We considered a moment, for we had intended to return to Plevlie. The
Shadow broke in.
"It is inconvenient to come to supper," he said to our horror. "Tell his
excellency that the gentleman and lady will come to lunch if he wishes
it."
The Sirdar meekly sent answer that lunch would suit him very well, and
we could drive back with him to Plevlie. "Would we come to his house at
12.30?"
The Prefect told us that we ought to go to the lunch at twelve, because
the Sirdar's clock was always half an hour fast. We arrived, but the
Sirdar evidently had been considering us, he did not appear for the half
an hour, so we sat with his staff sipping rakia by the roadside.
The lunch was excellent, but the Sirdar's carriage, like every other
carriage in Montenegro, was a weird, ancient, rusty arabesquish affair,
tied together with wire. We had two resplendent staff officers, armed to
the teeth, who galloped ahead, we had two superior non-coms., also armed
to the dentals, galloping behind, while on the box sat a man with gun,
pistols, sword, dagger and a bottle of wine and water which we passed
round whenever the Sirdar became hoarse. The coachman was as old and as
shabby as his carriage, and every five miles or so was forced to descend
and tie up yet another mishap with wire--ordinary folks' carriages are
only repaired with string.
The Sirdar occupied almost the whole of the back seat, and Jo was
squeezed into the crack which was left. Jan was perched on a sort of
ledge, facing them. The carriage was narrow, six legs were two too many
for the space. Jan's were the superfluous ones. He tried this pose, he
tried that, but in spite of his contortions he endured much of the seven
hours' journey in acute discomfort and the latter part in torture.
In spite of his throat the Sirdar did nearly all the talking. The
country we were passing through were scenes of his battles: with one arm
he threw a company over this hill, with a hand, nearly hitting Jan in
the eye, he marched an army corps along that valley; he explained how he
had been forced to give up the Ministry of War because there was no
other efficient commander for the north.
A blue ridge of pine trees appeared on our right hand.
"You see those hills," said the Sirdar: "I'll tell you the story of a
reply of mine, a funny reply. I ordered a general last winter to march
across those hills. He said that the troops would starve. I looked him
in the eye. Then you will eat wolves, I shouted. He went."
If we passed peasants he stopped them. He seemed to have an
extraordinary memory for names and faces.
"Never forget a face," he said, "never forget its name. That is the
secret of popularity."
He was very anxious that we should go to Cettinje and to Scutari. He
kindly promised to see about it, to arrange for our horses and to have
our passage telegraphed before us. At Podgoritza he said a government
motor-car should wait for us. He advised us to make a detour from the
straight road and to see the famous black lake of Jabliak and the
Dormitor mountains. We thanked him gratefully. He waved our thanks
aside.
"And I will write to my friend the Minister of War. He will arrange that
you go to Scutari." He then explained all the reasons why Montenegro
should hold Scutari when the war was over.
"It was ours," he said; "we only gave it up to Venice so that she should
protect us from the Turk. If we do not hold Scutari, Montenegro can
never become a state, so if we cannot keep her we might as well give up
Cettinje. After all we are but taking back what was once ours."
He was daily expecting the uniforms from Russia, and asked every soldier
on the road for news. At last one said that he had seen them.
"The stuff is rather thin, your excellency, but the boots are splendid."
[Illustration]