The air is clear and damp, and remarkably invigorating. A few deep

breaths start the blood slowly moving through my veins, and I walk

around in the mud, stretching my cramped limbs. There are the usual new

shell-holes scattered about to make us first rejoice in our shelter and

then look doubtfully at the all-too-thin layer of dirt on the roof

between us and a direct hit. The Germans, when they take up a position,

seem to think of it as permanent, dig their _abris_ often as deep as a

hundred feet underground, and are absolutely safe in them except when a

raiding party tosses a grenade down the stairs. Their officers’ quarters

are particularly spacious, lined with cement, with the walls often

papered, holding brass beds and other quite civilized comforts. A piano

was found in one. It had been put in before the cement was laid, and

they were unable to remove it when they retreated—even if they had had

the time. The French, whether from laziness or because they expect soon

again to be moving forward, waste little time on the dug-outs. The

standard is a pit lined with sandbags, and covered by a conventional

form of corrugated steel roof, with more sandbags and a little dirt on

top of this. These protect from the _éclats_, or shell fragments, but

form a death trap for all inside if there is a direct hit. If the side

of a hill or a hollow is available it affords more protection. The one

direct hit on our _abri_ at P 2 was luckily a “dud,” and caused no

damage.

I walk over to the pile of discarded equipment to see if anything

interesting has been added during the night. This and the hospital are

the two favorite places for souvenir hunters. At all the _postes_ and in

the hospitals the rifles, bayonets, packs, belts, cartridges, knives,

grenades, revolvers, shoes, and other equipment of the wounded and dead

are put in a large pile, and the first to recover get the pick—after our

selection. At the _postes_ these things are piled in the open, with no

protection from the elements, and many are slowly disintegrating. This

morning, of the new things there is of interest only one of the large

wire-clippers, used by the _pionniers_ and scouts for passing through

the enemy wire. But my friend has seen them first, so I waive all

claims, and he tucks them carefully away in one of the several

side-boxes with which the cars are equipped.

The trees are twice decimated, but the birds have stayed, and now they

are waking and, overflowing with high spirits, sing their message of

good cheer. They answer each other from different parts of the wood, and

by closing one’s eyes one seems to be in the country at home. Never has

the song of birds seemed more beautiful or more welcome, and, gladdened,

we listen while we may, before the slowly swelling thunder of the guns,

beginning their early morning bombardment, drowns out all other sound.

We go down again into the _abri_ and pray for a load soon to take us

down to the hospital and breakfast at headquarters.

* * * * *

WE have been ordered _en repos_, and after turning in our extra gas

masks—we carry ten in the car for the wounded in addition to the two on

our person—our _blessé_ blankets, and stretchers, we start in to load

the cars with our friends, and our own baggage. As for some time our

baggage has been lying _en masse_ in the “drawing-room” of Tucker Inn,

as some humorous _conducteur_ styled the roofless pen in Récicourt,

where our belongings were left while we were rolling, or in the

surrounding _abris_, one could not be at all certain that he was putting

the right things in the right duffles, and it was not surprising if a

stray jar or two of _confiture_ most unaccountably found its way into

one’s own duffle.

The section in formation, we roll off with the sun shining brightly on

grimy cars and drivers, down the roads, passing ruin after ruin, with a

burst of speed past a corner in view of the German trenches, and we

again begin to see familiar ground. The green hill back of Erize, with

shadows of the woods and the scars of the old trenches, appears in the

distance, and my friend looks at me and chuckles.

Back in the same little town, parked in the same ruins with the same

quietness, peace, and relaxation from the tenseness of the past days,

which is so welcome this time, my friend and I walk into a little

_estaminet_, pledge each other in glasses of French beer, and taking off

our helmets for almost the first time in what seems an age, survey them

and each other in placid contentment.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

III

EN REPOS

A BATCH of mail was given out the morning after our return. When we

moved, our address seemed to have been lost, for only a few letters, of

no interest to any one, managed to find us. We have been too busy to

miss them, and when they arrived in a bunch there were no complaints.

It is a wonderful thrill to get a letter from home, to read what those

who mean all to one are doing, and to feel their personalities throbbing

“between the lines.” We bridge for a brief moment the chasm of three

thousand miles, and in revery gaze upon those persons, those places, and

those things we have known. Our thoughts here are always in the past. We

cannot think of the present, and we dare not think of the future, but

there is always the past to live in,—the past of events and memories.

We settle down to the same dull monotony as before. For a few days this

is bliss, but it soon becomes tiring again. All work here is contrast.

When we are at work, we work intensively, taking less rest than seems

physically possible, and when _en repos_ we are plunged into the dullest

monotony imaginable, with nothing to amuse or occupy us. This is true of

every branch of active service.

The few air raids are rather an anticlimax after the days that have just

passed, especially as nothing falls near enough to cause us any

annoyance. At Bar-le-Duc the Boche playfully drops a dozen bombs into

the German prison camp, much to every one’s amusement; a mile from us he

destroys a camp of Bulgarian prisoners, and we wonder at his

hard-headedness and laugh. But the next night we hear bombs crashing in

the distance, and in the morning learn from some men in another section

passing through that it was Vadlaincourt, where the Huns flew so near

the ground that soldiers in the streets shot at them with rifles. At

that height the aeroplanes could not mistake their targets, and they

retired only when the hospital was a mass of flaming ruins. There are no

smiles at this. Another night the purring motors reveal outlined high

against the stars a fleet of Zeppelins, bound we know not where, but, we

do know, on a mission of death to the innocent.

* * * * *

THE enemy aeroplane comes over us often. We have wondered why, but we

now realize that while the Allies can get control of the air when they

want it, to keep continual control would be too expensive in both men

and machines. The anti-aircraft gun theoretically solves the problem.

When an enemy machine appears, a battery of _contre-avions_ is notified

and essays the destruction of the adventurer.

It is pretty sport. A little white machine, sometimes catching the glint

of the sun, dashes towards us at a great height. It is sighted, and then

the high-pitched boom-booms of the _contre-avions_ start in, and the

shrapnel breaks at varying distances around the machine like

powder-puffs, which float along for some minutes. After a little of this

harmless sport the Boche gets out of range, the guns cease, and the

machine, having in the meanwhile disposed of some bombs or taken some

photographs, dashes off, to be followed shortly by one or two Frenchmen.

The practical value of the anti-aircraft guns is to keep the machines so

high in the air that they can accomplish little, as the guns rarely

score. At M——, where every day they have been shooting two or three

hundred rounds at the machines which fly over the city, they are quite

proud of their record, for once in one day they shot down three

machines—two of their own and one German. They have been resting on

their laurels ever since. It was a few examples like this which taught

the French airmen to keep out of the sky while the _contre-avions_ were

busy.

* * * * *

“NAPOLEON” was so christened by us because, despite his sparrow-like

form and manner, he considers himself the moving spirit of the army in

general and of our section in particular. Because he knows nothing about

automobiles, he styles himself an expert,—the mere fact that he is

assigned as clerk to an ambulance section proves his claim. The one time

he had the indiscretion to touch a car, he drove the lieutenant’s around

the compound with the emergency brake set—after telling the _sous-chef_

that he had driven cars for twenty years! One of the ambulances goes for

_ravitaillement_ every day, carrying “Napoleon,” who disappears into

mysterious buildings and returns with still more mysterious edibles,

presumably for our delectation.

On one trip the carburetor gave trouble and we stopped and cleaned it.

While we were working we noticed “Napoleon” industriously turning the

lights on and off, pumping the button on the dash. We said nothing, and

when we had finished and started the car again he tapped his chest

proudly, cocked his head, and said, “_Moi!_”

In circumnavigating a large team in the centre of the road later that

day I rubbed “Napoleon” off against a horse, and after that he snubbed

me on every occasion.

* * * * *

BEING at the cross-roads, all manner of men and things come through

Erize. The never-ending stream of _camions_ passing each other as they

go, layers deep with dust and grime, winds on steadily. There is great

rivalry between the _camion pelotons_, and each has adopted an insignia

painted on the sides of the cars to distinguish it from the others. As

there are several hundred _pelotons_ the designs are many, interesting,

and reveal much of the inner nature of the _poilu_. Every species of

beast and fowl is depicted,—greyhound, stork, swallow, and other

types,—as a monkey riding on a shell, a demon with trident pursuing a

German, and then perhaps a child’s face, copied no doubt from the locket

of one of the men.

Soldiers go up cheering wildly, singing and shouting. They return

silent, tired, covered with mud, and reduced in numbers. German rifles,

bayonets, caps, buttons, cartridges, and other odds and ends are then

offered for sale. In August a _poilu_ offered me a German rifle. I was

examining it, and admiring the design, when I noticed the maker’s

name,—the latest type German rifle had been made in New Jersey, U.S.A.

In addition to these things, the _poilus_ have for sale many articles

they have made themselves. The favorite is the _briquet_, or pocket

lighter. This is made in all conceivable sizes and shapes, and operates

by a flint and steel lighting a gasoline wick. This is why we use more

gasoline _en repos_ than when rolling! The soldiers also take the

_soixante-quinze_ shell-cases and carve and hammer them into vases. As

many of the men were experts at work of this type “_avant la guerre_,”

and as much local talent has appeared since, some of the specimens are

very fine indeed, and command high prices in the cities.

[Illustration: A DIVISION EN REPOS

INTERNATIONAL FILM SERVICE CO., INC.]

It is these laughing, playing, seemingly care-free soldiers who are the

spirit of the war. Relieved from the tense struggle of life and death

for a brief rest, their joyous nature blossoms forth in reaction from

the serious affairs of their day’s work.

* * * * *

THERE is nothing that so brings out the best in a man as to fight

against terrific odds, to struggle in a losing fight with the knowledge

that only by superhuman effort can the odds be equaled or turned. To

work for an ideal is a wonderfully inspiring thing, but when the battle

necessitates the risking or the sacrificing of home, happiness, and life

it brings to the surface in those who persevere characteristics which

lie dormant or concealed.

An ideal must be worth while when millions of men gladly risk their all

for its attainment, and those men who risk and sacrifice must have

returned to them something for what they give. Whatever sort of creature

he is on the surface, the fire test, if a man passes it and is not

shrivelled in its all-consuming flame, must develop in him certain

latent and hitherto buried attributes which are fit to greet the light

of day. If he be lacking in worthy human instincts, the flame will

destroy him, but if he passes through the test, he emerges a better

man—how much better depends on the individual. At least, having once

seen the ideal, he has something now for which to live and strive.

* * * * *

THE world, judging from what it saw on the surface, flatly declared that

France could never stand up under the strain; but what has happened has

proved how little of the real worth of a nation or of a man is ever

visible on the surface. There must always come the test, the fire which

burns off the mask, the false surface beneath which mankind ever hides,

and brings forth what is concealed—good or bad. The bad is swept away

and the good survives.

The French are a temperamental people, and consequently are most easily

affected by circumstances. In former times the mass of the people were

inclined to be demonstrative, insincere, somewhat selfish, and rather

egotistical. These characteristics could never pass the tests, and now

the true spirit of France, the Phœnix, is rising from the ashes of the

past a freed and glorified being, radiant in the joy of accomplishment.

From the torture she has endured, an understanding of the feelings and

desires of others must be born which will banish the taint of

selfishness forever. Those who do things are never egotistical—they have

no time to talk, and France has been doing things these past years.

Those who rub elbows with the elementals and sacrifice for each other

and a cause can never be insincere again. And what harm is there in

demonstration? The bad characteristics removed, this becomes merely an

effervescence, a bubbling over of a joyous, unrestrained nature—Ponce de

Leon’s true fountain of perpetual youth.

The difference between the men who have served at the front and either

seen or felt great suffering, and those who have not, is most marked.

One evening I was in an _abri_ where some new recruits were wrangling

over unimportant things, and showing their selfish character in every

speech and act, when a desperately wounded man was brought in. After

serving for some time in the trenches he had been given a few days’

leave to see his family. He went back happily, thinking of the wife and

the little children he was soon to see again. Having left the third-line

trenches, he was walking through the woods down the _boyau_ which leads

to the outer world, when a shell broke overhead. The _brancardiers_

patched him up and brought him in with his head bound so that his eyes

and mouth alone were visible. The doctor handed him a cup of _Pinard_

and a cigarette, neither of which would he touch until he had offered it

to the rest of us. I picked up his helmet which he had put down for an

instant, although his eye never left it. There was a hole in it through

which I could have rolled a golf ball.

To illustrate the reverse—I was standing in a town a little ways back,

waiting for a car to give me a lift up to the lines, when a kitten

rubbed against my leg. I picked it up and started to play with it.

Instantly a peasant—not too old to serve—rushed out and snatched the

kitten from my arms:

“_Ce nest pas à vous!_” was his comment.

* * * * *

THE English can never be called a temperamental race, but even their

stolid worth has needed much shaking up for the best in it to come to

the surface. The example they have set since their awakening is one

which any nation may well emulate, and it will be a proud people indeed

which can ever equal the record they have made in this war for courage

and devotion, never surpassed in the history of the world.

The _poilu_ and the Tommy are of such opposite types that each

completely mystifies the other. The Frenchman works himself up to a

fanatical state of enthusiasm, and in a wild burst of excitement dashes

into the fray. The Englishman finishes his cigarette, exchanges a joke

with his “bunkie,” and coolly goes “over the top.” Both are wonderful

fighters, with the profoundest admiration for each other, but each with

an absolute lack of understanding of the other, intensified by the

difference in language.

* * * * *

THE varying characteristics of troops from different parts of the

world—the allied countries, dependencies, and colonies—have led to their

classification and assignment to the work best adapted to their

temperament. The fighting troops are divided into two main classes

called the “flying” and the “holding” divisions. There are some troops

who are wonderful in a charge, but have no stamina or staying power to

resist counterattacks or the wear of steady fighting. There are others

who lack the initiative and dash, but who can hold on and resist

anything. Then there are others who, while they are possessed of both

qualities, are somewhat better suited for one class than the other. The

Flying Divisions are used chiefly in the attacks, where a quick advance

and desperate fighting must win the day. This completed, they go back

_en repos_ again, while the Holding Divisions take their place to

consolidate the ground won, and to resist the enemy’s attempts to regain

it. The Flying Divisions have longer _repos_ but more violent fighting

while they are on the line, and the Holding Divisions have shorter

_repos_ but a less strenuous although longer stretch in the trenches.

This has all been worked out from observation and experiment.

For example,—in the early days of the war the Madagascans, French

colored colonial troops, are given certain trenches to take. They take

them with little delay, and are told to consolidate and hold them. This

is all very well until supper fails to arrive. The soldiers wait

impatiently for a short while, and then, ignoring the commands of their

officers, evacuate their trenches, which are immediately occupied by the

Germans, and go back for their meal. Supper finished, with no hesitation

they return and in a wild charge recapture their trenches and several

more.

Other French troops in the Flying Division are the Algerians, who have

done wonderful fighting throughout the war, and have suffered heavily.

It is the boast of the Foreign Legion, which is classed as Algerian,

that since its organization it has never failed to reach its objective,

and even in this war it has made good its boast. In one attack the

Legion entered thirty-five thousand strong and returned victorious with

a remnant of thirty-five hundred men.

The Algerians have a sense of humor all their own. An _ambulancier_ was

carrying one of them down to the hospital. As he was only slightly

wounded he was sitting on the front seat with the driver, leaving more

room for the _couchés_ inside. One of the _couchés_ was a German. Half

way to the _triage_ the Algerian made signs to the driver to stop. The

driver looked inquiringly at the man who, with a broad grin, pulled out

a long knife and pointed at the German. The driver naturally did not

humor him, and the sulky Zouave refused to speak to him during the rest

of the trip.

Another Algerian came into the _poste_ one day. He had a great joke that

he wanted us all to hear. He said that he had been given three prisoners

to bring in, and was leading them down a road in a pouring rain, when he

noticed the ruin of a house with the roof missing. He told the prisoners

to go in there there—“where it would be drier,” and when they complied,

stood on the outside and tossed grenades over the wall at them.

The fact that the colonial troops of the Allies, especially those of

Great Britain—the Canadians, Australians, and New Zealanders—fall

practically without exception into the Flying Division because of the

initiative, dash, and daring developed in them to such a degree, has

given Germany, who has won more victories with poisoned pen than with

the sword, an opportunity to stir up hard feeling with her propaganda

between the colonies and their mother country.

This propaganda claims that England has sacrificed her Colonials to save

her own troops. Nothing could be farther from the truth. While the

Colonials are in the Flying Division and the larger part of the English

in the Holding Division, because of their famous bulldog tenacity, the

English have lost a greater percentage of their men than any one of the

colonies. The world has never seen such fighting as the troops of Great

Britain have had to stand up under, and full credit is always given the

Colonials for their share.

The Canadians particularly have distinguished themselves. They share

with the Foreign Legion alone the distinction of never having been given

an objective they have not taken. When the order came for the attack on

Vimy Ridge it read: _The Canadians will take Vimy Ridge at such and such

an hour_, and they took it on the dot. With the Canadians must be put

the Anzacs,—Australians and New Zealanders,—examples of what universal

military training can do.

Then there are the Indians, who never take a prisoner. By training and

tradition they are great head-hunters, and enjoy nothing better than

creeping out at night over No Man’s Land and waiting before the enemy’s

trench until a sentry puts up his head to observe. A quick sweep of the

curved knife, the head is secured, and the Indian returns with the

feeling of “something accomplished, something done, has earned a night’s

repose.” Their sense of humor has much in common with that of the

Algerians—and of the Germans.

Many of the heads, in all stages of curing, have been found in the

knapsacks and equipments of these troops—when they were dead or

unconscious. While conscious, the Indian will guard them with his life,

feeling that they are legitimate souvenirs.

* * * * *

THERE are three French medals which are given for service in this war,

not to mention a number of lesser ones which are seen rarely. The most

coveted of these is the Legion of Honour, a medal famous for some

centuries both in war and peace. This is divided into several classes.

There is the Grand Cross of the Legion of Honour, a very large medal

worn over the right-hand pocket with no ribbon. This has been awarded to

a few men of the greatness of Joffre and Petain. Then there is the grade

of Commander of the Legion of Honour. This is a smaller cross worn at

the neck. There are also the ranks of Officer and Chevalier. Both are

small crosses on red ribbons, but the former has a rosette on the ribbon

to distinguish it. These are awarded to officers only and are greatly

prized.

Two new medals were struck for the war,—the _Médaille Militaire_ and the

_Croix de Guerre_. The _Médaille_ is a round medal on a yellow ribbon of

one class only, and is awarded to officers and soldiers alike for actual

bravery on the field. The _Croix de Guerre_ is a bronze cross on a green

and red ribbon, and has three classes,—the _Croix de Guerre d’Armée_,

which has a bronze palm on the ribbon, _de Corps d’Armée_, which has a

bronze star on the ribbon, and _de Division_, which has a plain ribbon.

They are awarded for different degrees of bravery or service to officers

and soldiers alike, and may be won unlimited times. In aviation a

_Croix_ with palm is given to an aviator for every enemy plane he is

officially credited with downing. Thus Gynemer at the time of his death

was privileged to wear fifty-five palms on his ribbon. For the benefit

of such as he a silver palm is worn, representing five bronze, and a

gold palm in place of ten bronze. Before this was allowed, Gynemer wore

his ribbon with forty odd palms.

In addition to these there are the colonial medals and a number of

French decorations which have not strictly to do with the war.

* * * * *

The White Road of Mystery: The Note-Book of an American Ambulancier · 第 2 / 4 段