Crosses Lake Mœris and visits the temple of Haron among the
rocks near the lake.--Disturbs a hyena.--Account of the
famous Labyrinth.--Visit to the Elloah.--An interview with
Khalil Bey.--Account of the Bedouins.--Belzoni crosses the
Desert attended by Scheik Grumar.--Brought to a halt by a
sentinel with a musket.--Arrival at Zaboo.--Interview with
the Scheik and Kadee of El Cassar.--Belzoni goes to their
village.--Discovers the seat of the temple.--Meets with
an unfortunate accident on his return to Zaboo.--Reaches
Benisoeuf.--Arrives at Cairo.--Embarks for Europe.--Returns to
England.
Leaving Senures the following morning, our travellers proceeded on
their journey, and after passing through several groves of palm-trees,
the view opened all at once on a wild country gradually sloping to
the edge of the lake. The water extended some way on each side, and
the mountains opposite had an awful and sterile appearance. At noon
they reached the lake, but could observe no trace of any living being.
The guide conducted them along the shore, till they arrived at a
fisherman’s hut situated near the place where the canal discharges
itself into the lake. The hut was inhabited by a few poor fishermen and
a soldier, who formerly received the duties on the fish they caught;
but now, the fishermen have only a share of the fish they catch, and
the remainder is sold at Medinet, of which the Pasha receives the
profit. The guide sent one of the fishermen for a boat, the only one to
be had, but the shabbiest thing imaginable. It was composed of rough
pieces of wood scarcely joined, and fastened by four other pieces,
wrapped together by four more across, which formed the deck; no tar,
no pitch, either inside or out, and the only preventive against the
water coming in was a kind of weed moistened, which had settled in the
joints of the wood. However, there was no alternative; Belzoni wished
to cross the lake, and he was obliged to submit to what he could not
help. Having made an agreement with the owner of the boat, who might
have passed for old _Charon_ the ferryman of the Styx in ancient
mythology, they put on board some provisions, and advanced towards the
west, where the famous Labyrinth is supposed to have been situated. The
water of the lake was good enough to drink, though a little saltish;
but it was only this year that it could be drunk at all, owing to the
extraordinary overflow of the Nile, which surmounted all the high
lands, and came in such torrents into the lake that it raised the water
twelve feet higher than it ever had been in the memory of the oldest
fisherman. As evening came on, the plantations and groves disappeared,
the lake and the mountains alone remained in sight, and when they
reached the shore, the owner of the boat, who accompanied them as
pilot, lighted a fire, whilst the others went out to fish with a net,
and soon returned with a supper of fish.
The land where they now were had formerly been cultivated, as there
appeared many stumps of palm and other trees, and around them wild
vines twined their luxuriant tendrils in profusion. The scene here
was beautiful; the silence of the night; the beams of the radiant
moon shining on the calm surface of the crystal lake; the group of
fishermen; the little fire; altogether formed a picture which Belzoni
had never before in reality witnessed, though I know not how often his
lively imagination had painted such a scene.
[Illustration]
However, morning came: they entered their shattered vessel, which
nevertheless conveyed them safely till they arrived near the end of
the lake, where they landed, and Belzoni, taking two of the boatmen,
set off for the temple of Haron, about three miles distant, standing
in the midst of the ruins of a town, and surrounded by fragments of
columns and other temples. Part of the town was covered with sand; on
one side of it there was something like a gateway, and a little way off
a Greek chapel, elevated on a platform with cellars under it. After
having taken a proper view of the temple and the town, Belzoni went
to see this small Greek chapel, accompanied by the two boatmen; and
not apprehending any danger, left his gun and pistols in the temple;
but he now nearly suffered for his thoughtlessness; for just as he was
mounting the little steps that led to the platform of the chapel, a
large and furious hyena rushed from the apartments beneath; stopped
three or four yards from him, howled dreadfully, and then turned round
as if determined to attack him.
The fierce animal appeared on second thoughts to relinquish its intent,
for, after having shown him its teeth, it gave a hideous roar, and
galloped away as fast as it could.
[Illustration]
Belzoni says that at the moment he regretted having left his gun and
pistols in the temple, but was happy to see it gone; he attributed its
flight to the noise made by the two boatmen who were near at the time.
Having surveyed the temple, and escaped other dangers, he returned with
his attendants to the boat. A high wind rose which swelled the lake
very much, drifted the sand into the air, and drove their boat on shore
at the spot they had left in the morning. They there collected plenty
of wood, made a fire, and passed the night under shelter of a mat hung
over two sticks planted in the ground.
They reimbarked in the morning and coasted the shores of the lake the
whole day, but perceived nothing worthy of remark. There are a few
spots near the water’s edge where great quantities of weeds grow from
under the water, and large quantities of game are always found among
these plants. The pelican is very common, and wild ducks. They saw
fragments of pillars and ruins nearly under water. In the evening they
returned to the same part of the shore and made an excellent supper
of fresh fish and a piece of a pelican shot by a soldier. The flesh
of this bird is not unlike mutton in appearance, and is tender and
agreeable to the taste. but the fat is not pleasant, being rancid and
yellow.
Belzoni had heard that the situation of the labyrinth was on the
west side of the lake Mœris, and he employed the few following days
in making diligent researches in that part in hopes of finding some
remains of it: but in vain, for not the smallest appearance of an
edifice was to be seen.
The labyrinth was a celebrated building, apparently designed as
a pantheon of all the Egyptian gods that were worshipped in the
provinces. This astonishing edifice contained no less than three
thousand chambers, fifteen hundred of which were subterraneous, and set
apart either for the sepulchres of the kings, or for the abodes of the
sacred crocodiles. The passages were so numerous and intricate, the
doors and entrances so many, the galleries and lobbies so extensive
and almost innumerable, that it well deserved the designation of
_labyrinth_, which word implies a place formed with inextricable
windings.
Belzoni failed in his endeavours to discover this wonderful structure;
but as it was not of great height, the lower apartments being under
ground, he concluded that it was probably buried by the earth which
is yearly brought there by the water of the Nile. He had no doubt
but it was somewhere there, from the number of stones, columns, and
other relics of antiquity that were scattered about, some on the road,
some in the houses of the Arabs, and others used in the erection
of huts: all implying that some magnificent and splendid building
had fallen to ruins. Having given up the attempt as fruitless, our
enterprising traveller prepared for his journey into the Elloah on the
west: accordingly he went to see Hussuff Bey, and to request he would
procure a Bedouin guide to conduct him through the desert; he said
that the Bedouins were all encamped in that part of the province which
was subject to Khalil Bey; our old friend who formerly lived at Esne,
and had the government of the Upper Provinces between that place and
Assouan, but who had left Esne and now resided at Benisoeuf.
Belzoni learned that the Bedouins were encamped about ten miles
distant; he set off immediately, hoping to gain some information from
them respecting the Elloah on the west: but was disappointed, for none
of them knew any thing about it; however, they told him that one of
their Scheiks, who lived in a camp a little way off, had a daughter
married to one of the Scheiks of the Elloah. Belzoni fancied that
this said Scheik would accompany him thither. He remained all night
at the camp, and set off in the morning for the Nile again. He passed
through bowers of roses, with which, as I have said before, they make
the rose-water; the cotton plant was quite abundant, and figs were so
plentiful that the people dried them in the sun and sent them to Cairo.
It was night when they arrived on the banks of the Nile.
Belzoni unfolded his saddle and slept on the ground again, and as
soundly as you sleep upon a pillow of down; he was become so accustomed
to inconvenient things as not to regard them. He proceeded on his
journey the next morning, and went to see Khalil Bey, who was now
commander of Benisoeuf. He was, as he had been before, very polite, and
glad to render his friend any service in his power. Belzoni informed
him that he wished to penetrate into the western desert; he directly
complied with his request, and sent for the Scheik or the chief of the
Bedouins. But the Scheik was not so punctual as Khalil, and did not
arrive for two or three days; indeed, when he did come, he protested
that he was unable to show him the road to the place he wished to
visit. The Bey insisted that he should find some one in his camp who
knew the road, which he of course promised to do, and it was agreed
that Belzoni should meet Scheik Grumar at a village at the foot of the
desert, whence he was to conduct him to the Elloah.
The name of that village is Sedmin el Djabel, there the Bedouins were
encamped, and among them Scheik Grumar, a tall stout man, six feet
high, with a stern countenance, which bespoke a resolute mind and a
sort of authority over those whom he considered beneath him.
The Bedouins are a tribe of Arabs who live a wandering life without any
settled habitation, but completely different from that of the Arabs of
Egypt in general. They are divided into a great number of tribes, and
distinguished by the names of their chiefs. Each tribe forms a sort
of village, and each family has a tent or portable hut of its own.
Their tents consist of four sticks set in the ground, about a yard
in height, to which is fastened one of their shawls as a cover with
another behind, so as to form a kind of shelter from the sun, wind, or
dew. They generally pitch their camps in a fertile spot, but always at
the foot of the mountains near the deserts; so that in case of surprise
they may soon be in their native country.
The men commonly wear a dark brown baracan, which covers them from head
to foot. The women are likewise covered with a thick woollen garment,
folded around them in an elegant manner.
A baracan is a sort of large woollen shawl which constitutes the chief
manufacture among the Arabs. The work is done by the women, who make no
use of the shuttle, but conduct every thread with their fingers, and
then with a machine they have in their hands, not unlike a wooden comb,
press down each thread as they lay it across.
EMILY.--The people of Mainarty use no shuttle, and I dare say they
never heard of one, or they would not go without such a useful thing.
What other employments have the Bedouins, mother?
MRS. A.--The young boys and girls attend the flocks: the husband is
engaged in tilling the ground, and the wife grinding at the mill,
working at the loom, or dressing provisions. Their tents are not
very sumptuous within; they are generally raised from the sand, which
without any preparation serves for the floor of the apartment; so that
when any one rises from this soft floor, with his large heavy flowing
baracan, he may raise a cloud of dust enough to eclipse the whole
family.
When the Bedouins wish to converse they do not sit at their ease, as we
do, upon sofas or chairs, without any ceremony, but place themselves in
a formal circle on the ground: the man who speaks first makes a smooth
place with his hand on the sand, and continues the conversation with
his fingers, making spots, and strokes, and points, as required. When
they meet each other, they exclaim, “_Salem Aleike_,” “Peace be with
you,” clapping at the same time the right hand on the heart.
Now we will return to Belzoni. He was just arrived at the camp of the
Bedouins; and the proud Scheik Grumar was going to attend him through
the desert.
They exchanged their donkeys for camels, and advanced towards the west,
passed through several rocky valleys, and slept the first night under
a sand bank: the second night the foliage of some palm-trees afforded
them shelter; and in the morning, continuing their course, they came to
a wide open plain of sand and stones, with several heaps piled above
the rest. These were tumuli, but nothing of the temple of Jupiter Ammon
was to be seen. They went on until at noon they saw a high hill at a
distance, and soon after the guide pointed out the rocks of the Elloah.
In the afternoon to their great joy they saw two crows.
We can see plenty of crows every day in this country, but had we
been in Belzoni’s place we might have been equally rejoiced, for the
appearance of these birds was a sure sign that water was not far off, a
great treat to the traveller in a hot sandy desert.
The Elloah, which I have mentioned several times, is a valley
surrounded by high rocks, which form a spacious plain of twelve miles
long, almost covered with sand; some small hills, overgrown with rushes
and other plants, are scattered here and there, and the temple of which
Belzoni was in search was supposed to have been in or near this spot.
Our travellers advanced towards a forest of date trees, situated near a
village named Zaboo, and all of them were exceedingly thirsty. Before
the camels arrived they scented the water at some distance, and set off
at full gallop, without stopping till they reached a rivulet, where,
having alighted for a short time to allow the camels to drink, Belzoni
observed a certain uneasiness in the manner of Scheik Grumar, for which
he did not know how to account.
OWEN.--Had he been an Arab of Gournou, I should have thought that some
bad design had entered his head: but he was an honest Bedouin, you
know. I want to hear what reason he had for behaving so. Go on, if you
please, mother.
MRS. A.--Belzoni went farther down the rivulet to drink too, and after
having watered the camels, they were about to proceed slowly towards
the village; but no sooner were they mounted than they heard some one
calling to them, and at the same moment a man rushed out of the bushes
with a gun, and put himself into an attitude as if to fire upon them.
[Illustration]
His appearance was not very terrifying, nor did his dress bespeak
him to be a person of much consequence. He was not more than four
feet high, of a chocolate colour (as the Bedouins generally are,) and
covered with a black woollen cloth. The Scheik immediately dismounted,
speaking to him in the Arabic dialect. The man recognised him, and
Belzoni was pleased to observe they appeared friendly towards each
other. The man was anxious to learn of whom the party consisted: the
guide told him that they were people in search of old stones: to which
he replied that no one ever came there to seek for old stones, and he
did not know what the Scheiks of Zaboo, the village to which they were
going, would think of it; he said also that he had intended to shoot
Belzoni while he was kneeling to drink at the spring. It was well that
Scheik Grumar was with him, for if that mysterious little man had not
recognised him, he might have carried his design into execution.
They continued to advance towards Zaboo, and the man began to walk
before them; but when they had nearly reached the village, he ran off
as fast as he could into a wood of palm-trees. Our travellers now
entered a valley, which formed a most pleasing contrast to the barren
scenes of the desert, for it was full of date and palm-trees, some
covered with blossom, and others loaded with fruit; apricots scented
the air with their mellow fragrance; figs, almonds, and grapes grew in
profusion; the ground was covered with verdure, and here and there a
spot of cultivated land was seen waving with rice. On their approaching
a wide place the guide halted and desired them to wait till his return;
he walked on, and Belzoni perceived that he went into a kind of
habitation at some distance.
OWEN.--I am sure if I had been Belzoni I would never have waited there
at the pleasure of Scheik Grumar.
MRS. A.--The poor Scheik seems no favourite of yours, perhaps you will
alter your mind presently.
Half an hour passed and he did not return: Belzoni inquired of the
drivers where the guide was gone; they replied they did not know.
Another hour passed, no Scheik appeared; Belzoni was tired of waiting,
and set off with his gun towards the place which he had seen the guide
enter, but before he reached the spot he heard the voices of men,
women, and children; and when he came nearer he saw a wall enclosing
a great many houses, and just within the gates there was a yard, in
which were assembled all the chiefs of the villages, and many others,
sitting on the ground, debating whether or not the stranger should be
admitted, and the guide very busy in persuading them that they were but
harmless people, and only come there to look after old stones.
OWEN.--My opinion is changed, mother, I did not much like the conduct
of the Scheik at first, but it seems he wished to make friends with the
inhabitants of Zaboo, and that he was a brave fellow after all. I will
not form a judgment so soon another time.
MRS. A.--Endeavour to adhere to your resolution, my dear boy: for it is
not wise to form an unfavourable opinion upon too slight a foundation.
On the arrival of Belzoni, there whole attention was turned towards
him, and a perfect silence ensued. He walked straight forward, when
they all rose without speaking a word, and gazed upon him in wonder and
astonishment. He inquired who was their Scheik, when his guide pointed
out three or four old men, telling him they were the Scheiks of the
place. Belzoni shook hands with them; some of the people received him
with good humour, and others went away murmuring. They inquired what he
wanted. He told them he was a stranger, and merely came to visit the
place, as he expected to find some stones belonging to his ancestors,
and hoped they should be friends. At the same time he sent his guide
to fetch the camels, and on their arrival ordered coffee to be made.
A fine carpet was spread upon the ground, and they became sociable by
degrees: in a short time the rest of the village had assembled; cows,
camels, sheep, donkeys, men, women, and children, all gazing upon him
in amazement.
They were acquainted with Turks and other tribes of Arabs, but had
never seen a Christian, or Frank, as they are called here. They told
Belzoni that he would see nothing there, but must go somewhere else;
it seemed that they did not like the thought of his searching for
stones. However they gave him a large bowl of rice for his supper, and
he lighted a wax candle, which surprised them very much, as they had
never seen a candle before; but they used him rather shabbily, for
without saying a single word they all rose up and walked off with the
candle, leaving him in the dark, with his carpet and saddle to sleep
on. This circumstance did not disturb his repose, and the next morning,
after some little difficulty, and many assurances that stones and not
treasures were the objects of his search, Belzoni set off through a
thick wood of palm-trees, and traversed many sandy plains, barren
deserts, ruined edifices, and old towns; but no temple of Jupiter Ammon
was to be seen, and he returned half in despair to Zaboo.
By this time the inhabitants of the village of El Cassar, which is only
separated from Zaboo by a high rock, were informed that a stranger
had arrived there in search of treasure. They were all in an uproar
immediately, and protested that he should never enter their village.
A man who lived half way between the two villages, and occasionally
reported what was passing from one to the other, came to Belzoni and
said there was a very large temple in the other village, which excited
his curiosity; so he got the man to take a message from him to the
Scheik and Kadee, and tell them that he came to the Elloah to visit
them; that he was not a soldier, and that they would gratify him by
appointing a place where they might meet him the next morning. He then
returned to the village, and the man to his habitation on the side of
the rock.
The next morning our friend was informed that these two great people
were coming towards Zaboo. He of course thought it favourable
intelligence, and hastened to meet them. The Scheik of the Elloah came
first; he was a good-natured looking man, on horseback, dressed in red
striped linen cloth, with pistols and gun: the Kadee (Kadee signifies
judge or justice of peace) was a rough looking fellow, clothed in green
cloth and turban, and accoutred like his companion. After those two
mighty personages came about twenty horsemen, and as many foot, all
well armed. Having reached the village they dismounted, some mats were
brought and the chiefs seated themselves whilst the attendants stood
around. Belzoni presented the usual salute, _Salem Aleike_, and was
requested to sit down among them. They became very anxious to know what
had brought him there, making many inquiries, and it was a long time
before they could be assured that to search for antiquities was his
only motive.
[Illustration]
At last, however, Belzoni gained his end, and obtained permission to
enter their village. Having made a repast of coffee, the chiefs set
off, and when they were gone our antiquary prepared to follow them. He
commenced his journey before sunset, passed over the sandy banks on
the west of the village, crossed the plain, ascended the rocks which
separate the two villages, and reached El Cassar on the evening of the
next day. He was received by the Scheik, who was become quite friendly
towards him, with somewhat like English hospitality; he begged him to
sleep at his house, and sent him a large bowl of rice for his supper.
Accordingly Belzoni accepted his invitation, though I do not know that
he reposed more soundly upon the Scheik’s mat than he had often done
under a sand bank, or upon a sugar-cane bed.
The house of the Scheik was similar to the others, being made of mud;
a few beams of palm-tree laid across formed the roof, on the top of
which was thrown a great quantity of straw with old mats over. They had
much conversation together, and the Scheik told Belzoni in confidence,
that it was the father of the Kadee who had so strongly objected to his
visiting the ruins in their village.
On the following morning, a long consultation took place whether he
should or should not be allowed to examine them; at length it was
settled for the old man himself to accompany him, and they set off
together. When they arrived at the spot, Belzoni was much gratified
by observing many ruins and fragments, which showed that there had
evidently been some magnificent edifice, and though little remained, he
returned highly delighted, in the assurance that he had discovered the
seat of the celebrated temple of Jupiter Ammon.
Before he returned to Zaboo, he expressed his gratitude to the old man
who had conducted him to the ruins; made several presents of coral,
soap, and coffee to the Kadee and the good-natured Scheik, and parted
great friends with all the people at the village of El Cassar.
An unfortunate accident happened to him as he was ascending the rock he
had to pass on his way to Zaboo. His camel slipped its foot on one side
and rolled down the rock the height of about twenty feet, taking his
rider of course with him. This was a sad event for these rocks were not
so soft as the sandy spot in Wady el Gomal, where his camel threw him
before.
Belzoni was very much bruised, and conveyed on a donkey to Zaboo, and
there carried to the house of a Scheik, where he was accommodated in
a narrow passage which led from the street door to a yard behind the
house, his saddle as usual forming his only bed. This was a miserable
place for any one in his condition, for the men, women, children,
buffaloes, cows, donkeys, goats, and dogs, passed backwards and
forwards continually, totally regardless of him.
In the course of a few days, though his side was still painful, they
proceeded once more, and by short stages arrived in about a week in the
valley of the Nile at the Bahr Yousef, which if you remember they had
crossed before: on the evening of the same day they reached Sedmin.
EMILY.--Ah, Sedmin el Djabel, at the foot of the range of low mountains
which forms the skirt of the desert, and where he had engaged his guide
Scheik Grumar; then he was pretty near Benisoeuf, mother, and when he
gets there I expect his old friend Khalil Bey will take care of him,
and be very glad to see him too.
MRS. A.--They arrived at Benisoeuf the next day. Belzoni did not remain
long at that place, but embarked for Cairo, and thence proceeded to
Rosetta. Mrs. Belzoni was there, and she could take better care of him
than any one else.
At length, having settled all his affairs in Egypt, in 1819 our
enterprising traveller embarked for Europe. After an absence of twenty
years, he returned to his native country, and into the bosom of his
family; from whence he departed for England; and I think we owe him
many thanks for the amusement and instruction his “Researches” have
afforded us.
BERNARD.--So he actually reached England at last! And I learn from your
account, mother, that perseverance will enable us to do great things,
which without it could never be done!
EMILY.--And I am glad, mother, to find you have proved the truth of
your assertion, that patience conquers difficulties, and crowns all our
endeavours with success.
OWEN.--Belzoni was quite a boy when his attention was first turned
to hydraulics; otherwise he might never have gone into Egypt, for he
went there, you know, mother, in hopes of convincing the Bashaw that
an hydraulic machine would be of use to irrigate his fields. Had he
not done so, the great pyramid might have remained unopened a thousand
years longer: the tomb of Psammuthis, in the valley of Beban el Malook,
might never had been explored; and _we_ should never have heard this
amusing narrative of Belzoni’s discoveries in Egypt and Nubia.
MRS. A.--You see how much depends upon our youthful pursuits.
“And thus it is--no plainer truth appears,
OUR MOST IMPORTANT ARE OUR EARLIEST YEARS.”
[Illustration]
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