extend from the Gap of Dunloe, the eastern extremity, to the Beenbane
spur near Glencar, about 10 miles west from the Gap. The scenery is
magnificent. From Lake Auger, in the Gap, the climber ascends at once by
a series of precipitous bluffs to an elevation of about 2,000 ft. Still
ascending along a serrated ridge, an elevation of about 3,000 ft. is
reached above Lough Cummeenapeasta, about 2-1/2 miles west of the Gap of
Dunloe. For several miles this ridge can be traversed at about the above
altitude. The ridge frequently becomes a mere knife-edge, and in several
places descends abruptly and precipitously to some of the numerous tarns
and cooms nestling 1,000 to 1,500 ft. below. A more perfect mountain
excursion can hardly be conceived. The ridge carries us to the shoulder
of Carran Tuohill, and from its summit a northern branch extends to
Beenkeragh (3,314 ft.) and to Skregmore (2,790 ft.) The axis proper
continues to Caher (3,200 ft.) and Curraghmore (2,680 ft.) Here we reach
a gap connecting Cummeenacappul (Horse's Valley) with the Valleys of
Caragh and Cummeenduff, or the Black Valley. West of it is the Beenbane
spur, a lower elevation of no interest. The Reeks are chiefly composed
of hard green and purple grits, and sandstone of old red sandstone age.
The rocks are generally firm and safe to climb amongst.
There is a comfortable angler's hotel at Glencar, at the western end of
the Reeks. This is the best adapted for the immediate neighbourhood of
the higher points, but to reach some of the most interesting climbing it
is better to distribute one's attentions equally between Killarney and
Glencar. From Killarney (Railway Hotel) two methods are available--one
by car to the Gap of Dunloe, or further to the Hag's Glen, up a steep
mountain road, and from either of these as starting-point some excellent
rock work is available. From the Gap as starting-point a long day can be
spent, descending at night to Glencar Hotel. The other method is to boat
from Killarney (enjoying exquisite scenery) to Lord Brandon's cottage at
the western extremity of the upper lake. Here begins a long, dull
ascent, rewarded by the splendid view from the ridge into the heart of
the Reeks. Or these routes can be reversed.
[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF
KILLARNEY]
Guides swarm here. None of these have the slightest knowledge of
climbing, and should one be engaged the first deviation from the easiest
ascent, or departure into gully or ravine, will put a conclusion to his
services. A wiry, bragging, long-legged shepherd undertook to accompany
the writer by any ascent he selected from the Hag's Glen to Carran
Tuohill, to be paid five shillings at the summit. At the foot of the
first gully, with many heart-felt remonstrances and gesticulations, he
disappeared, not even thinking it worth while to make an easier ascent.
On this account it is all the more necessary to be unfailingly provided
with the Ordnance map and a thoroughly good compass. An aneroid
barometer is also of great assistance, especially in mist, for a
knowledge of the altitude often enables a lake or a peak to be
identified.
_Cumloughra_ (3,100 ft.)--Starting from Glencar Hotel, a few tedious
miles bring us across a country road to Lake Acoose (507 ft.) Passing
round the south edge of the lake, a ridge (about 900 ft.) is crossed,
and ere long Lake Eighter, at the entrance to Cumloughra (1,500 ft.), is
reached. If we pass along the shores of the lake to the south-western
edge, a few hundred feet up an open gully brings us to a series of
cliffs south-west from Cumloughra lake. The rock is sound, and a fine,
almost vertical ascent of 1,000 ft. may be made, striking the ridge of
Caher (3,000 ft.) 200 ft. below the summit. It is a severe climb and
very long, entailing many zigzags. There is no main gully to adhere to,
and the cliffs are less impracticable than they look. Along the west
side of the two lakes the cliffs are easier.
_Carran Tuohill_ (3,414 ft.)--Cars from Killarney stop at the Geddagh
River. Cross it, sweep to the right and back, and then follow the valley
by a fair path between two lakes to the Devil's Ladder and up it to the
_col_. The summit is then on the right hand. The writer was once
fortunate enough to ascend this summit through a cloud layer of about
1,500 ft. thick, which ceased a short distance below the summit. Above
was a clear blue sky, and peering out of the dense white, snowlike bed
of mist Caher and Brandon (the latter 30 miles to the north-west, the
former not a mile away) alone were visible--a never to be forgotten
sight, which seemed shut out entirely from earthly considerations.
Descending _into_ the clouds, the ridge leading southwards towards
Cummeenoughter, or Devil's Looking Glass (Upper Coom), was taken by
mistake, and an exceedingly nasty traverse across huge, dangerously
sloping slabs was necessary in order to regain Carran Tuohill and find
the Caher ridge.
_Beenkeragh_ (3,100 ft.)--Between Beenkeragh and Skregmore (2,600 ft.)
there lies an inviting glen, sunk in black precipices. These cliffs are
to be avoided. At several points an attempt was made to scale them, but
the rock is most rotten. Near Beenkeragh is a ridge running a little
west of north for half a mile, and bounding the Devil's Looking Glass
and the Hag's Glen on their west. This ridge is reached by an easy gully
known as the _Devil's Ladder_, about 300 ft. below Beenkeragh.
_Devil's Looking Glass_ (Cummeenoughter). This tarn lies at the head of
the Hag's Glen, at an elevation of 2,500 ft. It is three-parts encircled
by a fine series of cliffs. At the western corner of this bold girth of
precipices the finest view in the Reeks may be obtained, looking over
the Looking Glass, and the lakes below in the Hag's Glen, across heights
and peaks and valleys to Cummeenapeasta. Excellent climbing is to be had
here. The rock is a purple sandstone, and one shoulder of an
inaccessible appearance can be climbed throughout, owing to the firmness
of grip and the recurrence of suggestive little footholds.
_Lake Auger_ (Gap of Dunloe).--These cliffs terminate upwards in the
Bull's Mountain at about 1,500 ft. The lake is about 350 ft. above sea
level. Almost immediately after leaving the lake we come upon a series
of bluffs and terraces occasionally communicating with one another, but
more often uniting to form smooth-faced walls. Great care and
discrimination have to be exercised in selecting ledges that do not
terminate upon such faces, as there is little hand grip, and turning to
retrace one's steps is most unpleasantly difficult and dangerous. The
climbing here is most excellent and exciting, but the writer often felt
sorely in need of a companion and a rope. It is in such places as these,
inaccessible to sheep and goats, that hawkweeds occur, and in search of
these, places were reached which rendered the summit of Bull's Mountain
(when gained) extremely welcome.
_The Hag's Glen._--Making the ascent from here to the westward, we reach
another valley between Hag's Glen and Old Finglas River. At about 1,800
ft. a very black gully leads up to the main ridge from its northern
side. It is occasionally blocked with huge masses of rock, which render
detours along the boundary walls necessary, and, as is often the case,
it becomes very difficult afterwards to regain the gully. This gully is
a very tough climb. The Hag's teeth (there are two) are conical knobs of
no difficulty, along a ridge running into the glen.
_Lake Googh_ (1,600 ft.)--This lake lies on the south side of the main
axis of the Reeks. Above it rises to the northwards a series of coombs,
or high-lying valleys, which can be traversed by separate and often
interesting scrambles till the main ridge is reached. This is a very
interesting ascent. It is often rather a matter of chance whether the
gully selected will be available to its end for the next coomb level,
and a retracement of steps will frequently have to be effected. Nothing
is less pleasing than to have to go back down a gully which it was a
small triumph to have ascended in safety. This valley is singularly
dark, damp, and grand; and it is more rich in ferns than any other
portion of the Reeks.
_Cloon Lake and Lough Reagh._--Although these cliffs are not a portion
of the Reeks, they are mentioned here as being easily reached from
Glencar Hotel. They lie south of Lough Reagh, which is separated only by
a marsh from Lough Cloon, and are a most superbly rugged cluster of
sugar-loaf peaks huddled together and often separated by sheer
precipices and inaccessible ravines. Unfortunately they are of easy
access from the southern or Sneem side. Many gullies of sound rock
occur. Bad weather on two different visits rendered climbing here an
unpleasant experience, but enough was seen to enable the writer to
pronounce the district well worthy of a visit. _Mount Aitchin_ (Whin
Mount) is the chief summit. Golden eagles bred recently amongst these
cliffs.
Coming down once from these mountains towards Lough Reagh, facing
northwards, in a blinding mist, an uncommon sort of descent was
obtained. Not knowing the nature of the ground, or indeed our
whereabouts, we struck blindly over a declivity, turning at length to a
sheer cliff whose termination was invisible. This cliff or series of
cliffs is broken into ledges, all coated with a long growth of woodrush.
Glissading and holding on brought us in unexpected safety to the valley
below. Return would have been impossible by the way of our descent.
Other mountains in the neighbourhood of Killarney are _Mangerton_ (2,756
ft.); _Toomies_ (2,415 ft.); _Purple Mountain_ (2,739 ft.); _Turc
Mountain_ (1,764 ft.), and the _Paps_ (2,268 ft.) Of these none afford
any real climbing. On Mangerton, however, the Horse's Glen is surrounded
by rocky declivities, and the Devil's Punch Bowl has a slight cliff
above it. From Killarney by rail to Headfort, and then back over the
Paps and Mangerton, and through the Horse's Glen, is a fine walk.
Another fine walk is from the lake, whither one proceeds from Killarney
by boat, up Toomies Mountain, over Purple Mountain, and Turc Mountain,
and Mangerton can be included on the way back.
The Eagle's Cliff, above the lake, looks climbable and is reported to
have been done. The writer, hurrying to the Reeks, always grudged time
for the attempt.
_Blasquets Islands_ lie off the extreme west of Kerry. They consist
generally of grits and slates.
Mr. Barrington (_Report on the Flora, &c._) describes the Great Blasquet
as a ridge about 700 ft. high for most of its length, but for about a
mile it exceeds 900 ft. The ridge is almost perpendicular in many
places. 'The cliffs and precipices are very grand, notably the
north-western face of the Great Blasquet and the north-eastern portion
of Inishnabro, which latter resembles, when viewed from the sea, a
cathedral 500 ft. high, the towers, spires, and even doors and windows
being represented. Inishtooskert has an isolated pinnacle of rock, with
a great chasm in the cliff near it, scarcely less striking. The Tearaght
is like a black tooth projecting from the ocean, its sides being rocky,
desolate, and very barren.' The present writer was prevented from
reaching these islands by stormy weather.
* * * * *
=Co. Cork.=--_Sugarloaf Mountain_ (2,440 ft.)--An isolated, bare,
conical peak, at the head of the Black Valley (Cummeenduff), the
southern boundary of the Reeks. Sunshine after rain makes it glitter
like a snowy peak. The rock is steep and glaciated. On the steepest face
an interesting ascent may be made--easy, but requiring extreme care.
South of the Kenmare River the hills are of less interest, though the
beautiful Glengariff lies amongst them.
_Hungry Hill_ (2,251 ft.) presents one precipitous face to the west,
where a piece of interesting gully work occurs. The writer has reason to
remember it, owing to the imprisonment of a bull-terrier, the property
of a companion, in the middle of the climb. After completing the ascent
the deafening howls of the prisoner made it necessary to work round to
the base of the gully and help the beloved creature down. An almost
identical incident occurred in a worse situation in the Poisoned Glen of
Donegal. A bit of rope should be attached to the neck of any dog that
follows a rock-climber.
_Gougaun Barra_ ('St. Fin Bar's Rock-Cleft') is a gorge on the road west
from Macroom to Bantry. The cliffs around rise from a desolate valley to
meet the slopes of the mountains, 1,700-1,800 ft. high.
On the road Keimaneigh ('the Pass of the Deer') is traversed, a gorge
through the Sheha hills some 2 miles in length. It is a scene of wild
beauty, and was the head-quarters of the band under 'Captain' Rock. This
defile can be visited from Inchigeelagh, a few miles eastwards, where
there is good fishing and accommodation.
On Gougaun Barra, Otway (_Scenes and Sketches in Ireland_) and Smith
(_History of Cork)_ have a good deal to say.
* * * * *
=Tipperary.=--_The Galtee Mountains_ extend about 15 miles from Caher at
the eastern to Massy Lodge at the western extremity. The ridge slopes
gently to the south, but abruptly to the vale of Aherlow on the north.
The formation is Silurian, with overlying beds of old red sandstone
conglomerate forming the summit of Galtymore (3,018 ft.) The Silurian
beds form considerable precipices upon the north, almost enclosing
numerous tarns, from which interesting ascents may be made.
The best head-quarters for the mountains is Tipperary, about 6 miles
north of the base of the range below its highest point. No doubt,
however, accommodation could be arranged for at some of the farmhouses
in the vale of Aherlow. The entire range from Caher to Mitchelstown
forms a splendid walk. Lough Curra and Lough Muskry are the most
interesting points to make for, and lie amongst the finest cliffs. Lough
Diheen is the most remote and barren.
At Lough Curra the cliffs descend 1,000 ft. sheer into the water. These
cliffs afford attractive but dangerous climbing. They reach to within a
couple of hundred feet of the highest point, known as Dawson's Table, or
Galtymore.
Still grander, however, are the cliffs above Lough Muskry. These tower
to a height of about 1,200 ft. in great terraces and vegetated walls
above the north and north-east ends of the lake. Numerous clefts,
ravines, and ledges exist.
Should the climber get pounded here (as not seldom happens) let him
beware of undue haste. A mouthful of food has a wonderful effect in
steadying the nerves. The holds here are often sods of dubious security,
and the Muskry precipices, though they _can_ be traversed in all
directions, are the severest amongst the Galtees.
* * * * *
=Co. Waterford.= _Commeragh Mountains._--The Commeragh Mountains may be
explored from Kilmacthomas on the south, Clonmell on the west, or Caher
on the north. They form an elevated plateau, bounded on all sides by
steep and frequently inaccessible precipices, which enclose cooms and
tarns. The highest point is 2,597 ft., and the rock is for the most part
sandstone or conglomerate of the old red sandstone period. Slates and
shales occur on the northern side.
The cliffs can be climbed in many places. As on the Galtees, a few
miles west, dense masses of a species of woodrush often render the
holding treacherous. Smith (_History of Waterford_, 1774) says, 'On the
sides of this chain there are many horrid precipices, and steep
declivities, with large naked rocks. In the valleys considerable chips,
or parings, lie in prodigious heaps.'
The most imposing precipices are those enclosing in a magnificent sweep
the Stilloge Lakes, on the south side of the group; and those above
Coonshingaun Lough and Crotty's Lough at the eastern end.
This east lake takes its name from one Crotty, an outlaw, who made his
home in a cave here during the last century. Legends of this worthy
abound in the district.
The cliffs are often wholly inaccessible without a rope, but a great
deal of excellent climbing can be effected with no artificial aids. In
search of rare plants the writer has made several distinct ascents above
the Stilloges, and also at Coonshingaun, quite apart from the easier
gully tracks, by which the ordinary visitor gains the top. The mountains
are singularly picturesque. The verdure-clad cliffs, overhanging the
deep, rock-bound, lonely tarns, have an effect that is at once rare and
beautiful.
INDEX
Aber, 1
Aberglaslyn, 95
Abergynolwyn, 10
Accidents, 1, 2, 9, 21, 25, 54, 56, 58, 67, 70, 72, 73, 82, 86, 88, 89,
90, 91, 108, 126, 139, 176
Achill, 158
Anglesey, 15
Antrim, 131
Aranmore Island, 143
Arans (The), 99
Arenig Fawr, 98
Asko Keeran, 162
Bala, 2
Barmouth, 3
Barnesmore Gap, 153
Beddgelert, 3
Beddgelert (Snowdon from), 4
Beenkeragh, 186
Ben Bulben, 155
Benchoona, 165
Benglog, 5
Berwyn Mountains, 94
Bethesda, 6
Bird Rock, 108
Black Ladders, 19
Black Mountains, 13, 126
Blaenau Ffestiniog, 9
Blasquets, 189
Blue Stack, 152
Braichddu, 18, 19
Brandon, 179
Brecon Beacons, 13
Bronyfedw, 14
Bryansford, 169
Bull's Mountain, 187
Bunglas, 145
Burton Port, 143
Bwlch Cwm y Llan, 87
Bwlch Goch, 61
Bwlch y Saethau, 76
Caddy of Cwm Glas, 60
Cader Fronwen, 94
Cader Idris, 106
Cambrian Railway, 7, 95
Capel Curig, 6
Carnarvonshire, 16
Carndonagh, 135
Carnedd Dafydd, 17
Carnedd Llewelyn, 23
Carnedd Ugain, 67
Carnedd y Filiast, 25
'Carrabuncle' (The), 181
Carran Tuohill, 185
Carrick Hotel, 145
Carrig-a-Rede, 133
Castell Cidwm, 93
Castell Gwynt, 34
Castles (The), 171
Cefnysgolion Duon, 19
Clare Co., 167
Clew Bay, 160
Cloghane, 179
Clogwyn Aderyn, 69
Clogwyn Penllechen, 69
Clogwyn y Garnedd, 72
Clogwyn y Person, 58
Clogwyndur Arddu, 89
Closs (Death of), 91
Cnicht, 96
Commeragh Mountains, 192
Cork Co., 190
Corris, 10
Cox (Mr.), 88
Craig Ddrwg, 98
Craig Eryri, 54
Craig y Bera, 94
Craig yr Ysfa, 21
Craiglyn Dyfi, 103
Crazy Pinnacle, 64
Crib Goch, 60
Crib y Ddysgl, 66
Croagh Patrick, 160
Croghaun, 158
Cumloughra, 185
Cwm Creigiog, 88
Cwm Dyli, 68
Cwm Glas, 56
Cwm y Llan, 87
Cyfrwy, 113
Cynfael Falls, 9
Cynicht, 96
Dawson's Table, 192
Denbighshire, 94
Devil's Kitchen, 28
Devil's Looking Glass, 186
Devil's Punch Bowl, 189
Dinas Bran, 94
Dinas Mawddwy, 7
Dingle, 179
Dismore (Mr.), 58
Dolgelly, 7
Donegal, 134
Down Co., 169
Dublin Co., 171
Dunaff Head, 136
Dunfanaghy, 139
Dungloe, 144
Dunloe (Gap of), 182
Eagle's Cliff, 189
Eagle's Nest, 147
Eglwyseg, 94
Elicydu, 25
Elider, 25
Empson (Mr.), 2
Errigal, 140
Esgair Felen, 42
Evans (Mr. Alf.), 82
Fair Head, 131
Fanet, 137
Ffestiniog, 9
Foelgoch, 26
Frodsham (Mr. G. H.), 90
Gallt y Wenallt, 76
Galtee Mountains, 191
Galway, 164
Gap of Doonmore, 138
Gap of Dunloe, 182
Garnedd Goch, 92
Giant's Causeway, 134
Glaslyn, 69
Glen Car, 183
Glen Gesh, 154
Glen Head, 145
Glenariff, 133
Glenbeagh, 142
Glengad Head, 135
Glengariff, 190
Glyder Fach, 31
Glyder Fawr, 36
Golf, 156
Gougaun Barra, 191
Grey Man's Path, 131
Guides, 183
Gweedore, 141
Hag's Glen, 183, 187
Haseler (Mr. Maxwell), 73
Hill names, 161
Homer (Mr. Philip), 54
Horn Head, 138
Howth, 174
Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit, 9
Hungry Hill, 190
Inishowen, 135
Ireland's Eye, 174
Jackson (Rev. James), 12
Keimaneigh, 191
Kendal (Mr. E. G.), 70
Kerry Co., 179
Killarney, 183
Killary, 165
Kingsley (Charles), 12
King's Mountain, 155
Kinlough, 156
Lambay, 171
Leenane Inn, 158, 163
Lisdoonvarna, 167
Livesley (Mr.), 56
Llaithnant, 105
Llanberis, 9
Llangynog, 95
Llechog, 91
Lliwedd, 74
Llyndulyn, 24
Lough Eske, 152
Lough Muskry, 192
Lough Salt, 142
Lough Swilly, 186
Lugnaquilia, 176
Maamtrasna, 162
Maamturk, 164
Macgillicuddy's Reeks, 182
Machynlleth, 10
MacSwyne's Gun, 143
Maentwrog Road, 15
Malin Head, 135
Mangerton, 189
Marble Arch, 143
Marzials (Miss), 9
Maum Glen, 144
Mayo Co., 156
Melynllyn, 24
Merionethshire, 95
Mitchell (Mr. J.), 86
Moel Eilio, 91
Moel Hebog, 92
Moel Siabod, 52
Moel Sych, 94
Moel Wyn, 96
Moher Cliffs, 167
Montgomeryshire, 94
Mount Aitchin, 188
Mourne Mountains, 169
Muckanaght, 166
Muckish, 140
Mweelrea, 160
Mynydd Mawr, 93
Nantlle, 10
Nephin, 156
Newcastle, 169
Ogwen Cottage, 5
One Man's Pass, 149
Orme's Head, 94
Owen (Harry), 11
Paget (Mr.), 2
Pantylluchfa, 69
Parson's Nose, 58
Payne (Mr.), 1
Pen Helig, 25
Penmaenmawr, 16
Penygroes, 11
Penygwrhyd, 11
Penyroleuwen, 18
'Phouca' (The), 140
Pleaskin Head, 134
Poisoned Glen, 141
Portsalon, 137
Powerscourt, 175
Prisons of Lugnaquilia, 176
Purple Mountain, 189
Rhayader, 13
Rhinog Fawr, 97
Rosapenna, 138
Rostrevor, 169
St. Kevin's Bed, 177
Slanting Gully, 85
Slieve Donard, 171
Slieve Glas, 182
Slieve League, 145
Smith (Death of), 108
Snowdon, 54
Snowdon Ranger, 13
Southey benighted, 54
Spellick, 171
Stacks, 15
Starr (Rev. H. W.), 89
Stilloge Lakes, 193
Sturrell, 144
Tanybwlch, 14
Tonelagee, 176
Tormore, 139, 144
Tory Island, 139
Trigfylchau, 36, 44
Tryfaen, 44
Twelve Bens or Pins, 166
Twll Du, 28
Waterford Co., 192
Wicklow Co., 175
Williams (W.), 72
Wills (Mr.), 2
Wilton (Mr. F. R.), 67
Y Garn, 28
Y Wyddfa, 54
Yr Elen, 25
PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
LONDON
Transcriber's note:
_Underscores_ have been used to indicate _italic_ fonts.
=Equals signs= have been used to indicate =bold= fonts.
The alternate spellings Carnarvonshire and Caernarvonshire both appear
in the original. I have left them as written (both are accepted
spellings).
Inconsistent hyphenation and dashes (e.g. number-ft vs. number ft) are left as written.