severe day's work, in making growingly reckless short cuts from summit
to summit. From Leckavrea to the Killary there are about fifteen
distinct summits, averaging 2,000 ft. in height.
_Benchoona_ (1,975 ft.), a northern outlier of the Twelve Bens, lies at
the mouth of the Killary, opposite Mweelrea. Killary Harbour or Fiord
runs inland eastwards for some 15 miles. Benchoona is gneissose, with
two summits, close on 2,000 ft., and a lake lies between them. Several
Alpine plants occur among the north-east cliffs. The rock here is
uncommonly dangerous to climb, being loosely constructed and apt to
disintegrate in unexpectedly massive segments. On such an occasion,
although against the dogma of climbing, a swift and sudden jump or
spring is sometimes the only escape. The block--perhaps a ton or two in
weight--which is quietly sliding, or more probably overturning, with
its captive, yields momentum enough for a final kick to clear out
altogether to any preferable station. These rocks are unfit to climb,
and will only be meddled with for some special purpose.
_Twelve Bens_ (2,391 ft.), within easy access of first-class hotels in
Connemara, are huddled together in beautiful confusion, and offer
problems of special interest in their puzzling geography and watershed
system. Bennabeola is entered by no roads of any great penetration, but
there are several valleys forming arteries with its very heart. Of these
Glen Inagh from the east, Glen Coaghan from the south, and Owenglin from
the west are the most important. The best method is to select a
glen--Glen Coaghan for choice--and work to its head. Two or three
summits will then probably lie equidistant. Most of these summits are of
quartzite, with short heavy screes, white and extremely barren. The most
interesting climb is upon the north of Muckanaght (2,150 ft.), which is
connected with Benfree by a ridge at about 1,000 ft. The cliffs lie
about 1,300 to 1,800 ft., and from near their upper edge to the summit
(2,150 ft.) is a steep and perilous grassy slope.
Muckanaght is about 2-1/2 miles from the lovely Kylemore Lake. Two
'Pins,' Benbaunbeg and Benfree, intervene. The peak itself is connected
by ridges with Bencullagh and Benbaun South. From Muckanaght the heart
of Bennabeola is laid bare, and, given a clear day, no better point of
vantage could be desired.
The Twelve Bens are in the heart of some of the loveliest scenery in
the world, full of varied and interesting scrambles, and botanically
they are pre-eminently the richest in mountain plants in Connaught,
Croaghpatrick coming next.
* * * * *
=Clare.=--_The Cliffs of Moher_ may be visited from excellent quarters
at Lisdoonvarna (the 'Fort in the Gap'), in the north-west of Clare, a
district known as the Burren. This district is formed of the
carboniferous limestone which occupies most of Central Ireland.
This formation, replete with carboniferous fossils, is remarkably
monotonous and symmetrical. When it occurs in a cliff formation, as at
Moher, or the south-western sides of the Aran Islands, it forms a sheer
wall, absolutely vertical, to the sea, or else it is arranged in a
series of terraces, like gigantic steps. Very rarely a chasm occurs,
connecting two terraces. More often it is possible, by means of slight
protruding ledges, to ascend an almost vertical face, since the rock is
invariably either absolutely safe or easy to test. Sometimes, as at the
southern end of the Moher cliffs, isolated pillars of rock occur, which
are most pleasing to climb and pleasant to remain perched upon when
climbed.
These rocky surfaces of Aran and Burren are very tiresome and difficult
to traverse, as the fissures (2-12 in. in width) between the blocks are
often adjacent. The rock is usually cut into slabs, generally
rectangular in shape. The loose blocks are piled by the inhabitants into
tottering walls, which are difficult either to cross or upset with
safety. The easiest way is to ascend gently and then jump with a kick
behind. On Aran especially the going is most laborious.
[Illustration: CLIFFS OF MOHER]
As an instance of the sheerness of these cliffs on Aran boys may be seen
fishing with a rodless line from their edge, 200 ft. above the water.
Inland these cliffs run gradually in a series of irregular declivities,
a gently sloping flagged platform to low levels.
Much is done here by the natives in the way of egg-collecting, with the
assistance of ropes, the eggs being chiefly those of guillemots, gulls,
and razor-bills, and required for food.
The cliff scenery of Moher is superb and unequalled. It has not the
variety of stack, needle, ravine, that other formations have, but its
very regularity is most harmoniously imposing. On the other hand, the
brilliant and varying colouring of North Mayo or Slieve League, in
Donegal, is entirely absent.
The Aran Islands are visited from Galway by steamer. There is an hotel
on the north island. They are full of ethnological and archaeological
interest.
* * * * *
=Co. Down.= _Mourne Mountains._--This chain of granite hills covers an
elliptic space of about 15 miles by 6, the longer axis stretching from
Newcastle to Rosstrevor, where there are excellent hotels. From either
point to the other is a day's walk that will well repay the labour, and
can be made to include all the principal summits. The descent to
Newcastle, through Donard Lodge woods, by the waterfall, is very pretty,
and by varying the night's accommodation a still more beautiful route
lies through Tollymore Park to Bryansford, where good quarters are
obtainable.
[Illustration: MOURNE MOUNTAINS]
The highest points lie at the Newcastle or north-east extremity of the
group. The southern portions are less interesting, and the western
flanks are very dreary.
These hills, being of granite, have few precipices, many rounded
summits, sloping sides, and heavy screes, of the usual uncomfortable
angular nature. The 'Eagle's Cliff,' a mile to the north of Slieve
Donard, affords some climbing, and a little rock exercise can be had at
'the Castles,' lying on a spur of Slieve Commedagh, to the west of
Slieve Donard, below it and half a mile away.
Slieve Bingian, in the south-east of the range, has a little easy
climbing.
There is also a considerable cliff on a shoulder north-west of Slieve
Meel-more. It is known as Spellick, and is easily visited from
Bryansford. It is worth examination, but the writer has not climbed it.
The view from Slieve Donard is, of course, famous.
The ascent from Bryansford, through Tullymore Park, taking Slieve
Commedagh and the Castles _en route_, is perhaps the finest walk, so far
as scenery is concerned, to be had in this picturesque cluster of
mountains.
* * * * *
=Co. Dublin.=--_Lambay_ is an island abounding in sea fowl and wild
flowers, about 2-1/2 miles from the nearest point of land, and about 10
miles north-east of Dublin. It is best approached by boat from Donabate,
or less conveniently from Howth, Malahide, Rush, or Skerries.
The cliffs reach about 250 ft., and are practically sheer in many
places, as on the north-east side at Freshwater Bay, or a little west
of it, and on the south-east cliffs below Raven's Well.
Several most interesting climbs are to be obtained on it. The best are
on those cliffs west of Freshwater Bay.
About 30 ft. above the water's edge at high-water mark there is a narrow
and deep horizontal fissure, which in May is packed with breeding sea
fowl. The ornithological visitor will at once feel it his duty to reach
that fissure. The writer's first visit to Lambay was made in the company
of one Dykes, known to be the best clifter on Howth. He pronounced this
fissure inaccessible. There is a bend in the cliffs leading to the
right-hand extremity of the fissure. Here lay the only chance, and the
first two grips out of the boat are easy enough, raising one 6 or 8 ft.
(or perhaps 15 if the tide is out) above the water. After that there are
two enormous stretches, with practically no foothold. If these two
points are passed, the fissure is in reach, and an ugly wriggle will
land the unwelcome intruder on his anterior surface upon the narrow
ledge forming its base.
Dykes meantime was highly encouraging, calling out, 'Madness,' 'Break
your neck,' 'You can never get down.' The climber had, however, an
original plan of descent, and having, with considerable difficulty,
divested himself of his garments, he dropped them first into the boat
and then himself into the water.
On revisiting these cliffs ten years later, and pointing out this climb
to a very good rock-man, he failed to see how the climb was done, and so
it had to be done again. This time, however, the tide was out, and on
stripping to take the plunge it became at once apparent that a rock
exactly in the line of descent was too near the surface. To climb down
had always appeared dangerous, on account of the lack of foothold and
the very awkward nature of the backward movement out of the fissure. So
an attempt was made on the wall above.
It is marvellous how a naked man can adhere to a cliff. For a full hour
an unhappy preadamite man writhed and glued himself against the face of
that cliff, descending and reascending by new lines, but always checked
by a straight wall about 150 ft. up. Anything appeared better than that
hateful descent. Some friends ran to a coastguard station a mile or more
away for a rope. However before they reappeared the descent was faced
and safely accomplished.
This sketch will serve to show that high mountains are by no means
necessary for the practice of rock-climbing, the very best of which is
constantly attainable along the coast. Owing to the working of the ocean
waves unsafe pieces are almost certainly removed, and the cliff, at its
lower parts at any rate, is invariably firm and safe. It is fine sport
to choose a steep rocky coast at, say, half-tide in spring, and travel
between high and low water marks as far as may be during the six hours.
It should be a point of honour not to ascend, but if forced to take to
the water excellent practice and much amusement is obtainable in this
way, and the slippery nature of the rock teaches sureness of foot.
Nailed boots are, of course, indispensable.
The geological formation of Lambay is principally felstone porphyry.
Some stratified Silurian shales and limestone occur, and there is a
small sheet of old red sandstone, with conglomerates. The rock is in
general hard and reliable.
_Howth_ is a promontory with a village about 9 miles from Dublin, for
the people of which it is a favourite resort. From Balscaddan Bay, on
the north, to an almost opposite point, Drumleck Point, on the south,
the east coast is composed of cliffs (200-300 ft.), sometimes abrupt,
sometimes ending above in grass slopes, very slippery in hot weather,
which have caused many accidents.
A very interesting scramble, with many nasty traverses over these steep
grass slopes, may be had round Howth Head. Keeping to the upper edge of
the rocks, it is necessary to ascend once at Kilrock, but after that the
whole headland may be climbed at about the medium height of the cliffs.
On the way a 'needle' or 'stack' will here and there attract attention,
and perhaps seem worth assaulting. About Piper's Gut a small gully is
difficult to pass. North of that a saddle rock leads to a pinnacle, but
it is of rotten rock. The cliffs of this part of Howth are exceedingly
picturesque, but in some places they are extremely unsafe. From Howth,
on a very clear day, the Welsh hills, apparently those about
Penmaenmawr, are visible.
_Ireland's Eye._ A small rocky island, 340 ft. high, about a mile north
of Howth. At its north-east corner there is a bold columnar rock with a
tabular summit, partly severed from the island. On its outer face it is
very sheer, and to gain the summit is a very short but interesting and
somewhat difficult climb. The return is not so bad, as a sidelong spring
saves a portion of the worst bit.
* * * * *
=Wicklow.=--Wicklow forms the third county in Ireland in which the
mountains rise to a height of over 3,000 ft., Kerry and Tipperary being
the other two.
The higher mountains lie in the broad band of granite formation which
extends in a nearly southerly direction from near Dublin through Wicklow
and Carlow counties.
Being granite they are as a rule round masses of wide extent, often
covered with peat bogs; so that although Wicklow contains the most
continuous extent of elevated (over 1,000 ft.) moorland in Ireland,
there are few cliffs of any consequence, and no peaks or summits
presenting upon any side material of interest to the rock-climber.
Nevertheless there are fine stretches of mountain, affording excellent
training ground. What cliffs there are occupy the most lovely scenery in
one of the loveliest Irish counties.
_Powerscourt Waterfall._--The rocks to the left of the fall, which is
kindly left open to the public by Lord Powerscourt, the popular
landlord, are nasty, especially in wet or frosty weather. Although not
much over 250 feet in height several lives have been lost in this
ascent, chiefly, no doubt, owing to the inexperience of the unfortunate
visitors. This dangerous though tempting portion has been for several
years railed off, and is not supposed to be trespassed upon. During the
severe winter of the present year (February 1895) the waterfall
presented an Arctic appearance. An interesting account of an ascent of
it, or rather of the above-mentioned rocks, was sent to an Irish paper
in that month. The climb was effected by a friend of the writer's (a
member of the Alpine Club) and another, with ropes and ice axes. The
cliff was covered with ice and snow. The same party ascended Djonce
(2,384 ft.), which lies above the waterfall, during a blizzard at a
temperature of 18 deg., upon the same day. Unhappily a very few days
afterwards a promising young life was lost upon these very rocks. The
falls are visited by very large numbers of holiday-makers.
The rocks of Powerscourt, which lie against the Wicklow granites, are
composed of metamorphic beds of gneiss and schists. Powerscourt is about
7 miles from Bray.
_Tonelagee Mountain_ ('Back to the Wind' Mountain) (2,694 ft.), a round
mass of moorland, has on the northern shoulder a crater-like valley,
containing a tarn, Lough Ouler, and cliffs of schistose, some 400 to 500
ft. high, descending from near the summit to the margin of the lake. An
interesting scramble may be made from the Military Road, about a mile
above Glenmacanass Waterfall, which lies some 6 miles from Glendalough
Hotel; but a short cut to Lough Ouler is easily found by going up the
Glendasan valley 3 miles towards Wicklow Gap, and then striking up
northwards over the shoulder of Tonelagee.
Wicklow county is very poor in highland plants, and these cliffs alone
possess species of any interest.
Other cliffs in county Wicklow are those of Luggielaw ('Hollow of the
Hill'), above Lough Tay; the Eagle's Nest, above Lower Lough Bray; a
small series of bluffs above Lough Nahanagan, and the Prisons of
Lugnaquilia. In winter the latter, lying high (2,700 to 3,039 ft.),
afford excellent glissading and cornice work. But, unless the season is
severe there is too much heavy trudging to be done. All the above
precipices lie in most attractive scenery, nor must the famous cliff
above Glendalough, containing St. Kevin's Bed, be omitted. But none of
them affords desirable scope for climbing practice. The granite
'Prisons' of Lugnaquilia are attractive in appearance, but all the cliff
faces are ready to drop to pieces. Mullaghclevaun ('Summit with the
Cradle' or 'Creel'), 2,783 ft., contains no climbing.
Since Wicklow affords the nearest opportunities to Dublin mountaineers,
we may mention a few one-day walks from that city which have been
accomplished by the writer.
Practically the only artery through these mountains is the _Military
Road_, constructed after the rebellion of 1798 to connect a series of
now disused barracks. This road, from 'Billy's Bridge' at Upper
Rathfarnham, about 5 miles from Dublin, is over 35 miles to Aughavanagh.
It passes through an almost uninhabited country, and much of it lies
from 1,000 to 1,500 feet above sea level, and it is the pedestrian's
main anxiety to regain the comparative security of the Military Road
before night sets in on the wide stretches of tussocky moorland.
To clear the suburbs it is well to take the tram to Terenure (3 miles).
Terenure; Ballinascorney Gap; Coronation Plantation (3 to 3-1/4 hours);
Sally Gap; Military Road; Lough Bray (5 hours); back to Terenure (7-1/2
hours: 34 miles).
Terenure; Lough Ouler; Tonelagee summit (6 hours); Mullaghclevaun summit
(7-1/2 hours); Ballysmutton (9-1/2 hours); home by Ballinascorney Gap
(13-1/2 hours: 48 miles). From Bray this walk is about 5 miles shorter.
Bray, over Bray Head, Little Sugarloaf, Big Sugarloaf (1,680 ft.),
Djonce Mountain (2,384 ft.), and Kippure (2,473 ft.); Lough Bray, by
Military Road, to Terenure: about 11 hours.
Terenure; Ballinascorney Gap; Seacaun; Kippure; Lough Bray; Terenure
(about 8 hours).
Terenure; Lough Bray; Kippure (2-1/2 hours); Gravale (2,352 ft.); Duff
Hill (2,364 ft.--very heavy going); Mullaghclevaun summit (6 hours);
Tonelagee summit (7-1/2 hours); Lough Ouler; Military Road; Terenure (14
hours; about 50 miles).
Glendalough; Dublin (7-3/4 hours); Glendasan; Wicklow Gap; summit of
Tonelagee (11 hours); summit of Mullaghclevaun; Clevaun Lake;
Ballymullagh old road; across Liffey at Ballysmutton bridge;
Ballinascorney Gap; Terenure (20 hours, including rests and delays by
bog; 62 miles).
Terenure; Lough Bray (3 hours); Laragh (7-1/2 hours); Glenmalure;
Drumgoff Hotel (9 hours 5 minutes--1-1/2 hour's rest); Lugnaquilia
(3,039 ft., 12-3/4 hours); Tonelagee summit (16-1/4 hours);
Mullaghclevaun summit (17 hours 40 minutes); Ballysmutton farm (19 hours
40 minutes--35 min. rest); Ballinascorney Gap; Terenure (23 hours 50
minutes; 75 miles).
The ascent of Lugnaquilia direct from Glendalough, over Lugduff, round
the head of Glenmalure, and up by Kelly's Lough is perhaps the finest
walk in Wicklow.
It is a fine day's walk along the coast from Bray to Arklow, or Bray to
New Rath Bridge, and thence by the Devil's Glen to Glendalough.
In a wild, uncultivated county, like Wicklow, experience in the use of
map and compass may be gained by setting a course from Woodenbridge to
Glendalough, about 12 miles, or from Glendalough to the Scalp or
Sugarloaf, on the way to Dublin, some 40 miles.
* * * * *
=Kerry.=--_Brandon_ (3,127 ft.) is of the same formation as that of the
Reeks, i.e. the lower old red sandstone. The Brandon rocks are, in
general, hard grits, firm and good to climb.
The accommodation on this promontory of Corkaguiny is no doubt improved
since the construction of Mr. Balfour's light railway from Tralee to
Dingle; but Dingle lies 8 miles to the south of Brandon.
I obtained very inferior accommodation at Cloghane, on an inlet at the
eastern base of the mountain; and cleaner and better, but not so
convenient, from a coastguard at Ballydavid, to the west of Brandon. For
the other mountains on the promontory, Castle Gregory is centrally
situated, but in all these cases (except Dingle) it is highly advisable
to make previous arrangements and supplement the native fare with a
hamper.
The coast of the Brandon promontory (which was traversed throughout) is
often highly precipitous; indeed, from Cloghane on the north to
Anniscaul on the south the western extremity is almost entirely so, and
many stiff bits of climbing were accomplished, whether in pursuit of
scenery, of a direct course, of objects of natural history, or, perhaps,
more frequently out of what an Irishman would call 'natural divilment.'
A few years ago no language would have sufficed in abuse of the
accommodation at Anniscaul, but, as it is now a railway station, no
doubt this is all changed.
[Illustration: KERRY]
_Brandon Peak and Brandon Summit._--The most enjoyable way to make the
first acquaintance with these mountains is to ascend Connor Hill, to the
north-west of Dingle, and follow the ridge by Beenduff, Ballysitteragh,
Geashane, and Brandon Peak to the summit. The peak is about 400 ft.
lower than and a little south of Brandon proper. Along this ridge,
looking north and north-west, there is a fine rocky face before reaching
the peak. After that point a range of cliffs, several hundred feet in
altitude, meets the loftier cliffs above Lake Nalacken, looking east. At
the head of the Feany valley, under Brandon, these cliffs afford an
interesting descent. The range gives plenty of practice in rock work.
Alpine plants occur mainly on the north and north-east cliffs, and are
more numerous than on the loftier Reeks.
_Brandon from Cloghane._--From Cloghane the ascent may be made amongst
fine cliffs and rock-climbing, by making south-east for Lough Cruttia,
the largest lake under Brandon to its east. It is better to follow the
road southwards a mile or two, to save uninteresting moorland. From this
lake it is a short distance to the north-west of Lough Nalacken, and by
striking in east at once to the cliffs a good climb is obtainable. Lough
Cruttia is about 700 ft. above sea level. Between the upper lough and
the cliffs the surface is a desolate extent of polished naked grits,
strewn with boulders. Crossing this a somewhat dangerous gully leads up
to the cliffs at about 1,650 ft. The ascent of this is about 300 ft.,
and a stiff climb and afterwards some 400 ft. of cliffs may be tackled
in various ways.
There are numerous ledges, and it is the best botanical ground in the
mountains. The cliffs 'go' splendidly. In a lake south of the two
mentioned above, locally named Lough Bawn, or the 'White Lake,' lives
the enormous 'carrabuncle.' It appears fitfully at night, glittering
like silver in the water with gold and silver and precious stones
hanging to it galore. It is partly covered with shells, which are lined
with gold. Upon one occasion several men went to the lake at night and
dived in oilskins to catch this valuable monster. They did not catch
him; but pearl mussels, no doubt shed from the carrabuncle, are found in
the lake.
_Brandon Point and Brandon Head._--From Cloghane it is a fine hard walk
right round Brandon Point and Brandon Head. At the cliffs of Slieveglass
(1,050 ft.) a bay of extreme grandeur is opened, bound on three sides by
lofty precipices and with a depth and sea frontage of about half a mile.
There is a shepherd's settlement, Arraghglin, on the coast, which has to
be closely approached. A more bleak habitation can hardly be conceived;
neither road nor even track leads to it. It is now several hours' work
to round the sea face of Brandon Head, at altitudes varying from 500 to
1,200 ft., to Ballydavid. If accommodation has not been arranged for
here the walk to Dingle will be found most wearisome, and at all trouble
a car should be provided.