The union which has been forced between the “Children of the Son” and
those of proud Albion has thrown some beneficial rays upon our European
domains and costumes, and if they have not improved our manners and
habits, they have at all events changed them.
It is true that we had, previously to this, reaped marvellous things
from the “Celestial Empire;” but the English nation, always eager for
novelty, could not be contented with their (_Ombres Chinoises_) Chinese
shadows, but must possess them in reality. Since this astonishing
conquest you have _Chinese_ quadrilles, _Chinese_ fashions, exhibitions
furiously _Chinese_, and, for certain, several millions of dollars,
which are every bit as _Chinese_ as the illustrious descendant of more
than forty centuries, whom you are still expecting as a most
extraordinary ambassador. I already perceive that your shoes, “_jolies
Anglaises_,” change and diminish with great rapidity. Even now you
appear to walk with difficulty; really, if you continue this practice,
you will, like the Mandarins’ ladies, have very pretty feet for sitting,
but very bad ones for walking. The intellectual part, which is covered
with your splendid “_blonde chevelure_,” will suffer as much as your
little feet; and it will be a contest between your astonishing and
gracious Amazons, who shall have their hair turned up first, in hopes to
resemble your celestial sister and nuptial companion of the expected
plenipotentiary. Your beautiful eyes, I hope, will remain in their
primitive purity; also that clear and rich tone of colour, which brings
to mind those extraordinary fine visages _clair de lune de l’antiquité_.
The island of Great Britain adds to and preserves this superb and almost
ephemeric colour, unknown to the soil of the Continent.
You may, nymphs of the ocean, let your nails grow in the fantastic
manner of that captured country; that is, near an inch longer than our
insignificant custom in Europe, which is, they say, “a part of the world
far from being civilized.” I would also advise you to use with
moderation the beaume Cremeux Houbigant, which will preserve them that
beautiful vermeil, so greatly admired.
But reflect for a moment, in giving full scope to your fashionable
taste, you sacrifice a thousand chefs-d’œuvre, and entirely forsake
our illustrious favorites, Mozart, Rossini, Meyerbeer, Auber, Handel,
and many others; because you recollect that the harp, guitar, piano,
&c., were not invented for the Mandarins: but setting aside all these
little tribulations, while walking about with pain, you will have the
gratification of hearing, “There goes a lady of the newest fashion.”
While discoursing upon these trifling subjects, I did not perceive an
enormous Epicurean, not very particular in fashions, and still less
partial to politics (which proves the difficulty of finding several
great accomplishments centred in one person), was waiting with intense
anxiety, to hear the result of the notice on the title-page; immediately
addressing me, he exclaimed, as our satiric Boileau might have said,
“_Tout ce que vous venez de débiter est certainement bien plat_,”--“but
where the deuce is your new plat d’entrée, or entrée dish?”
I begged a thousand pardons of my antagonist, and perceived, to my great
surprise, that I had involuntarily left my culinary laboratory to
undertake an ephemeric voyage to China. After an apology on each side,
the following dialogue took place between us:
“There is the model of the dish; what do you think of it, sir?”
[Illustration]
“I perceive with pleasure,” he very politely replied, “that I have not
lost anything by waiting; it displays great taste and originality, and
possesses the seal of innovation.
“Allow me to take off the cover.”
[Illustration:]
“Ah! what is the use of those divisions, or compartments?”[29]
“The Chinese, as I have been informed by several celebrated travellers,
amongst which your great diplomatist, Sir Henry Pottinger (to whom I had
lately the honour of being introduced, upon the occasion of his visit to
the Club), in viewing the dish, certified what I had previously heard
from several illustrious men---- By the by, he has honoured me by
subscribing for a set of them--here is my album, and see, there is his
autograph:
[Illustration]
--for four pagodatique _entrée_ dishes; this completes the service for
the present, but in a short time a complete service for first and second
course can be easily manufactured at a reasonable price. But to return
to the subject. I was telling you that those gentlemen had informed me
that the Chinese have, upon their tables at their banquets, a profusion
of fowls, and birds of all kinds, served with sauce or gravy, a plate
being placed before each guest, similar to the European fashion,
surrounded by three or four small saucers, each containing different
ingredients, spices, and pickles, suited to the dish they partake of;
each person takes a wing or fillet, that being the only part they
consider eatable. They then cut it in small pieces, on their plates, and
dip them into the different sauces, until they produce a favorite
seasoning to their taste. It might not be to either yours or mine, but
for all that, I do not blame them.”
“‘Pon my word, it is very curious and clever; by this mode your plate is
free from incumbrance, a fault with which I always reproach our nation.”
“I have frequently heard of a ‘Potage aux nids d’oiseaux,’ we call it in
English, birds’-nest soup; it is said to be of the most astonishing
delicate substance.”
“I shall shortly have the pleasure of entertaining you upon that
subject; we will now return to our new ‘plat d’entrée.’”
Drawn by the frivolous fancy of fashion and folly of the times; why, I
thought, should not I endeavour to make myself as ridiculous as any
other person; I therefore submitted to the proprietor of a large china
establishment a drawing, from which he executed with great taste this
pagodatique table ornament.
“The several advantages which it possesses are easily understood, one
_entrée_ may have four different _sauces_, four _entrées_ the varieties
of sixteen, or of eight, by putting the sauce double, I mean two
compartments filled with the same sauce, and preserve the _entrée_ as
the Chinese do, _au naturel_. To add to its great variety, small
dinners (_très recherchés_) can be served upon it for one or two
persons, the sight of a small and delicate _entrée_ will sometimes
invite the appetite, where a large _entrée_ approaches too near
vulgarity, and would produce a contrary effect; to know how to live an
Epicurean in desire, is a great art, but so true it is, that if all our
wishes were accomplished life would be an enormous burthen; and nothing
can effect this important object but the delicacy and lightness of a
well-conceived dish. This once obtained, a first-rate epicure will not
only eat with a greater degree of zest and stimulation, but he will, at
the same time, enjoy the pleasurable sensations arising from his keen
and unerring discernment, that the sister twins, art and science, have
been busily employed in administering to his taste. I must also observe,
that, from his profound knowledge of the rules of life, he will always
bear in mind that ‘moderation is the goddess of health.’”
“Very true! very true!”
“For instance, a real epicure is well aware, and can appreciate that he
owes all the delights and pleasures of his existence to a good state of
health; for without it no one can enjoy the pleasures of life, and,
still less, the pleasure of _dégustation_; so true is this, that even
the company of our best and beloved friends, the possession of riches
and honours, the greatest celebrity and glory, lose their charms where
health is compromised; the most delicate food loses its zest, the most
melodious chords of music, and the greatest optical delights are
evanescent, the beauties of nature are lost, and everything is without
charm, even the sun--yes, that sun itself, which pours life upon
creation, importunes our wretched frame with his torrent of light and
universal splendour; which proves that we ought profoundly to study
those great agents of nature which preside over our organic movements.
Allowing us to use with moderation what our senses desire, is far from a
meagre or redoubtable privation for the illustrious disciples of
Epicurus; excess and want of experience have often been the cause of man
falling into the greatest errors, which have been most pernicious to his
health. From the celestial vault the indefinable power desires to guide
us safely, and by following his divine lesson we shall not only enjoy
extreme happiness, but obey the dictates of our great and wise Creator.”
“I perfectly understand your argument, and have often recognised the
profound truth of it. If it is not asking too much, would you be so kind
as to name a few _entrées_ you would recommend for these compartments,
and sufficient dinner for one or two ladies?”
“It will give me much pleasure to do so, I will mention several: for
instance, if a dinner for two persons, I would serve in the centre,
_filets de sole à la Hollandaise_, and in the four corners
Deux Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Pois,
Un Filet de Volaille, piqué à la Purée de Champignons,
Deux Quenelles de Lapereaux aux Truffes,
Demi Perdreaux en Salmi.
Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux Pointes d’Asperges,
Quatre Rissoles aux Huîtres.
In the centre. Poulet printanier piqué aux Cressons,
Deux Cotelettes de Mouton à la _Réforme_,
Blanquette de Filets de Volaille aux Truffes.
Deux Filets de Grouse à la Bohémienne,
Deux Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf, sauce poivrade.
Centre. One slice of Salmon en Matelote,
Deux Croquettes de Volaille, à la Purée de Foie Gras,
Un Ris de Veau piqué à la Financière.
Deux Grenadins de Veau à la Palestine,
Deux Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu.
Centre. Roast Duckling,
Deux Eperlans frits à la Boulangère,
Salmi de Bécasse.
Deux Ris d’Agneau piqué à la Purée de Choufleurs.
Une Caille aux Feuilles de Vigne.
Centre. A slice of Turbot à la Mazarine,
Un Ailleron et Filet de Volaille à la Marengo,
Deux Rissolettes à la Pompadour.
“I can also give you a few plainer bills of fare for the same.
Pommes de Terre à la Maître d’Hôtel,
Carbonade de Mouton à la Provençale.
Centre. Small Rumpsteak,
Un Choufleur, sauce au beurre,
Un Pigeonneau à la Jardinière.
Choux de Bruxelles à la Crème,
Minced Veal and two poached Eggs.
Centre. Half a broiled Fowl with gravy,
Pomme de Terre à la Hollandaise,
Un Filet de Bœuf, sauce tomate.
Deux Cotelettes de Mouton à la Soubise,
Quatre Jérusalem Artichauts à la Béchamel.
Centre. Slice of Cod and Oyster sauce,
Minced Beef, sauce piquante,
Pomme de Terre frite.
Stewed Oysters,
Two Potatoes plain boiled.
Centre. Stewed Rabbit and Onion sauce,
Two Escalopes of Veal and Ham,
Un Brocoli, sauce au beurre.
“The sauces and garnitures of many of these may be varied; and as
you see in some of the lists two _entrées_ only served, and the
other two compartments filled with vegetables, either plain or
dressed, the centre remaining for something larger, either plain or
dressed, according to the taste of different persons; but your good
judgment will enable you to perceive clearly that the variations of
which it is capable are almost without end. I beg also to observe
that the dish, after having been placed an hour or two in a hot
closet (as it is customary to do with all dishes previous to the
dinner being served), will retain the heat nearly an hour, without
applying hot water, red-hot iron, or spirits of wine, which always
produces a disagreeable effect, and is often the cause of a dinner
being detained, as they must wait till the last minute before this
operation commences.”
“This essential part,” he replied, “added to its elegance, holds
out most favorable prospects of success to this beautiful
Pagodatique dish; and I really cannot see why, in a dinner of
eight, or ten _entrées_, the four corners could not be ornamented
with such dishes; as they would produce the most agreeable effects,
for too great uniformity in a service is not very picturesque, and
unfortunately always employed. I have only one more favour to ask
of you--it relates to those birds’ nests.”
“For the present I hope you will excuse me, as it is now five
o’clock, and from six to eight I have several _petits dîners très
recherchés_, which require all my attention; but favour me with
another visit shortly, and then we will terminate our culinary
conversation, without occupying our precious time about the
eccentric Chinese, but will confine ourselves to their nests.”
“You are quite right in mentioning it. I should be very sorry to
importune you, for I know too well what it is to wait impatiently
for a dinner, and know it to be equally as bad for a dinner to wait
for you.”
“Both are very bad, but the latter is almost unpardonable to a real
gourmet.”
“It may be, but observe, that by making a hungry stomach wait, you
expose it to commit the greatest injustice; because that ungrateful
organ will make one believe that the minutes you are kept waiting
before dinner are longer than the hours spent after.”
“Your argument is but too true, sir; and it will prove to you at
the same time, that there are immense difficulties to be surmounted
in our very difficult and complicated profession, independent of
the trouble and tedious work which must be carried safely through
the greatest anxiety.”
“Very true! very true! I wish you good afternoon; and before I
leave London I shall do myself the pleasure of paying you another
visit. Good day.”
“I can assure you, sir, you will be most welcome. Oh, by the by, I
am sorry to call you down stairs again, I will be with you in half
a minute; here it is,--I beg your acceptance of this small
brochure, it is a receipt for the most _recherché_ dish that ever
was invented; it is extracted from my gastronomic work now in
progress.”
“Oh! I am one of your subscribers; when will it appear?”
“Not before next season.”
“That’s a long time.”
“Yes, sir but it is my intention to make an entire new work of it,
and very different to any culinary work previously published. By
that I do not mean to say it will be better, and perhaps not so
good as many of them; but it will contain a large number of new
receipts, written in a style which, I flatter myself, will tend
very much to simplify the present system.”
“Let me see this receipt, but I require my spectacles--here they
are.--‘_La Crême de la Grande Bretagne, Macédoine_;’ but it is
French, I am sorry for that.”
“Why, sir?”
“Because my cook is English, and it will be very difficult for him
to make, as he understands so little of French.”
“Oh, sir, if that is his only preventive, it would be a pity to
deprive you of having it, so here is an English translation of it.
You are welcome to both, sir.”
“‘The Cream of Great Britain,’ oh! thank you! thank you! I will
read it at home, and then give it to him; but is it practicable at
this season of the year?”
“Quite as practicable at one season as another, for it is partly
composed of flowers which bloom in all seasons.”
“Indeed! then I will certainly have it made.”
“I depend upon your impartial judgment; be so kind as to let me
know what you think of that unique composition.”
“I will, without fail, and do myself the pleasure of writing you a
note upon that subject. Good afternoon.”
“Good afternoon, Sir.”
It has been reported to us, that as soon as he got home, he
comfortably set himself in his arm chair _à la Douarière_, and
appeared reading with great surprise the receipt for