No. 147. _Fillet of Beef_ or a small rump steak is very excellent
dressed in the following new way:
Procure a piece of fillet of beef, weighing from three to four pounds,
which can be purchased in any butcher’s shop, being the under part of
the rump; trim it a little, taking off part of the skin, leaving a piece
of fat half an inch in thickness upon each side, cut it crosswise in
slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, making about six pieces, beat
lightly, giving them a roundish shape; place them upon a gridiron over a
sharp fire, season whilst broiling with about a saltspoonful of salt,
and the half of one of black pepper, turn them once or twice whilst upon
the gridiron, which process will keep the gravy in, and when done dress
them immediately upon a dish, in which you have put the following simple
but excellent sauce, which I usually make over an ordinary fire; put the
yolks of four eggs in a stewpan or iron saucepan, with half a pound of
fresh butter (rather firm) cut into slices, half a teaspoonful of salt,
a quarter ditto of pepper, the juice of half a lemon, and half a
tablespoonful of chopped parsley; set upon a slow fire, keep stirring
quickly with a wooden spoon in every direction, until becoming rather
thick, when remove it from the fire half a minute, still stirring, then
again upon the fire, stirring until the butter is quite melted, but
congealed with the yolks of eggs, forming a smooth thickish sauce;
should it, however, be too thick, add a little milk or cream, and if
requiring more seasoning add a little pepper and salt, with the juice of
the other half lemon; proceed the same for rump steak, but if for a
corner dish, the fillet would be preferable, as the steak would be too
large, appearing clumsy. The above quantity would be sufficient for a
party of ten, but a much smaller quantity might be made.
A great improvement would be to have four or five middling-sized
potatoes, peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise, and afterwards into thin
slices crosswise; have ready upon the fire a stewpan, containing lard or
dripping, when hot (which you may perceive by the smoke arising from
it, or by throwing a drop of water in, if sufficiently hot it will hiss
and snap), put in the slices of potatoes, and fry about ten minutes
until crisp, and a very light brown colour; care must be taken that the
fat is not too hot, or the potatoes would be burnt before they were
sufficiently cooked.
Another method of frying potatoes, although rather more extravagant, is
very simple and excellent: put a quarter of a pound of butter in a
stewpan or saucepan, and when melted put in twenty small new potatoes,
if in season, or potatoes cut as before, place over a sharp fire,
stirring them occasionally, until of a nice gold colour; should they
absorb all the butter, add a little more, when done sprinkle a little
salt over, and serve round the fillet or steak; this may be used in many
instances in the kitchens of the wealthy.
No. 148. _A new Steak._ Procure a piece of ribs of beef containing a
couple of bones, from which detach the meat, and cut three steaks
lengthwise, beat lightly with the cutlet-bat, trim a little, broil one
or two, seasoning them well, and serve with sauce and fried potatoes as
before.
No. 149. _Fillet_ or _Steak à la Maître d’Hôtel_. Cut, trim, and broil
the fillet or steaks, from either the rump or ribs of beef, as before
(always over a sharp fire); place them upon your dish, have ready two
ounces of butter, with which you have mixed a saltspoonful of salt, a
quarter ditto of white pepper, one of chopped parsley, and the juice of
half a lemon, rub all over the steaks, turning them three or four times,
the butter mixing with the gravy forms an admirable sauce; serve with
fried potatoes round as before.
The above steaks or fillets are also very excellent broiled as above,
and served with anchovy butter (page 33), instead of the butter prepared
as last directed, and using one ounce instead of two.
Should any of the above steaks be required plain broiled, to give them
an extra zest, sprinkle chopped eschalots in addition to the other
seasoning over previous to placing them upon the gridiron; a steak cut
of the ordinary size, would require ten minutes broiling over a good
fire. Mutton and lamb chops, or even cotelettes, are very good dressed
in the before-mentioned manners; a little glaze, if handy, is also an
improvement. For mutton chops, a little Harvey sauce and Chili vinegar
poured over just before taking from the gridiron renders them very
beautiful eating.
No. 150. _A new Mutton or Lamb Chop._ Having previously and successfully
introduced a new joint (the saddle-back), I thought I would also
introduce a new form of mutton or lamb chops, and adopted the following
one, as represented in the engraving, which is not only very novel, but
the manner in which the chops are cut, by jagging the meat, causes them
to eat much lighter and better, they being sawed off the saddle instead
of cut from the loin; proceed as follows:
Trim a middling-sized saddle of mutton, which cut into chops, half an
inch in thickness, with a saw, without at all making use of a knife;
then trim to the shape represented in the drawing; season well with salt
and pepper, place upon a gridiron over a sharp fire, turning them three
or four times, they will require about ten minutes cooking; when done
place them upon a dish, spread a small piece of fresh butter (if
approved of) over each, and serve. The bone keeping the gravy in whilst
cooking, is a very great advantage in having chops cut after the above
method. At home, when I have a saddle of mutton, I usually cut three or
four such chops from it, cook and rub maître d’hôtel butter over, and
serve them with fried potatoes round, using the remainder of the saddle
as a joint the next day.
[Illustration]
The above are also excellent seasoned, dipped into eggs, and
bread-crumbed previous to broiling; for lamb chops proceed precisely the
same, only broiling them a few minutes less.
No. 151. _Veal Cutlets._ Cut four cutlets from the neck, half an inch in
thickness, beat lightly with a chopper, and cut off the chine-bones,
season them well; have a couple of eggs well beaten upon a plate, into
which dip them, then into bread-crumbs, take out, pat gently with a
knife, and broil rather more than ten minutes upon a gridiron over a
good fire, turning occasionally, keening them of a very light brown
colour; dress upon a dish, spreading a piece of the maître d hôtel
butter over each, turning them two or three times in the dish, and
serving very hot. Veal cutlets are also very good served with the new
sauce as for fillets of beef or steaks, and the fried potatoes around
them.
No. 152. _Pork Chops._ Take four chops from a loin of pork, each about
half an inch in thickness, beat them lightly, trim, season well with
pepper and salt, broil nearly a quarter of an hour over a good fire, and
serve very hot upon a dish, with or without apple-sauce in a boat.
No. 153. _Pork or Veal Chops Fried._ Put one ounce of butter in a sauté
or frying-pan, rub over the bottom, lay in four chops, well seasoned as
in either of the last two; place the pan over a moderate fire, when the
chops become coloured upon one side turn them over, they will require
turning two or three times before done; when done, and of a nice colour,
take them out, and place upon a dish; put a spoonful of chopped onions
in the pan, which fry until becoming of a brownish colour, then take off
as much of the fat as possible, add a teaspoonful of flour (mix well
with a wooden spoon), and moisten with half a pint of water; stir
quickly, add a bay-leaf, and when boiling season with half a
saltspoonful of pepper, two of salt, one of sugar, and two spoonfuls of
vinegar, stir over the fire until forming a sauce, when again lay in the
chops, let simmer five minutes, dress the chops upon a dish, add two
chopped gherkins to the sauce, which pour over and serve; a little brown
colouring (No. 146) added to the sauce would improve their appearance.
No. 154. _Hashed Beef_ is made from any description of roast beef. It
may also be made from stewed, but roast is preferable. Cut about a pound
and a half of meat into thin slices, using a small quantity of the fat;
lay them upon a dish, sprinkle a spoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of
salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper, place the meat in a stewpan,
moisten with half a pint of water or light broth, if handy; add a little
colouring (No. 146) to give a nice brown colour, place it upon the fire,
allowing it to warm gently, stirring occasionally, simmering a quarter
of an hour, taste if requiring more seasoning, if so add a little and
serve very hot immediately. In making a hash of any description, avoid
having to keep it hot as much as possible, or it would become greasy,
and likewise prevent the hash boiling over the fire, which would cause
the meat to eat hard and tough. If the beef has been well roasted, as
described (page 639), the remainder, being underdone, makes an excellent
and very nutritious hash.
To vary any description of hash, it may be served upon a large piece of
buttered toast, or half a spoonful of chopped onions may be added with
the flour and seasoning; chopped parsley may also be added with a
spoonful of catsup, two of Harvey sauce, two of vinegar, or one of Chili
vinegar; four nice green gherkins in slices may also be added at the
time of serving. Some fresh mushrooms from the fields, cleaned, and
stewed in the hash, is also a great improvement, a bay-leaf also added
imparts a pleasant flavour. A little meat left upon the bones, well
peppered and broiled, are frequently served with the hash.
No. 155. _Remains of Salt Beef_, although very good cold, in winter is
very desirable made hot; one of the best methods of doing which is to
convert it into that old-fashioned dish entitled bubble-and-squeak; the
beef should be, as usual, rather underdone, and cut into slices not
thicker than a five-shilling piece, then put two ounces of butter in a
sauté or frying-pan, when melted lay in the beef, which place over a
quick fire, frying both sides of a yellowish brown colour, when take
them out upon a dish, keeping them hot; you have previously boiled six
or eight greens or one Savoy cabbage, which chop fine, season with four
saltspoonfuls of salt and one of black pepper, place in the same pan you
fried the beef in over the fire, keep turning them over until quite hot,
when dress upon a dish with the beef over, and serve. A few slices of
fat ought to be fried with the beef.
Another way of warming salt beef, is to cut slices and lay in a pan with
just sufficient water to cover them; place over the fire, add about an
ounce of fresh butter mixed with a little flour, a little Harvey sauce,
and a piece of glaze about the size of a walnut, if handy. Another way
would be to lay the slices in a saute or frying-pan well buttered, place
over the fire and fry a light brown colour, pour off as much of the fat
as possible, add a quarter of a pint of water, and a piece of butter the
size of a walnut, with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour,
shake round over the fire a minute or two, add two spoonfuls of
piccalilly cut in slices, two ditto of the liquor, and one of the
colouring (No. 146), and serve over when ready.
No. 156. _Ox Tails en Currie._ Have ready some ox tails dressed as
described in page 273 (they will keep several days in a basin covered
with their own stock), when wanted warm them in their stock, cut four
onions into very thin slices, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of
a pound of butter, fry over a slow fire until the onions become brown
and pulpy, when add a nicely boiled mealy potato (peeled), a
tablespoonful of currie-powder, and one of currie-paste, or one and a
half of the powder, mix all well together, moisten with three parts of a
pint of the stock from the tails; then add the tails, stirring them
round gently until well covered with the sauce, set over a slow fire to
stew very slowly for half an hour, moving them round occasionally,
finish with a little salt and the juice of half a lemon; dress upon a
dish pyramidically, pour the sauce, which must be rather thick, over,
and serve with rice boiled as directed (page 51) upon a separate dish.
Another way, for a change, would be to introduce four very ripe tomatas
at the same time with the potato and currie-powder, omitting the
lemon-juice, and adding half a teaspoonful of sugar. A tablespoonful of
currie-paste added to any description of hash would convert it into a
very good currie.
No. 157. _Ragout of Ox Tails._ Cut two ox tails into pieces two inches
in length, rub two ounces of butter over the bottom of a
convenient-sized stewpan, place in the pieces of tails, with half a
pound of streaked bacon cut into square pieces the size of walnuts,
place over a moderate fire, stirring occasionally until nicely browned,
but not in the least burnt, add two ounces of flour (mix well) and three
pints of water; when boiling and half cooked add a bunch of parsley,
with two bay-leaves, twenty young carrots, or pieces of old ones, and
twenty button onions, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a half ditto of
sugar, and a quarter ditto of pepper; let simmer until the tails and
vegetables are quite tender, keeping well skimmed, when take out and
dress them in pyramid upon mashed potatoes, garnish round with the
vegetables, pass the sauce through a hair sieve into another stewpan,
place over the fire, stir with a wooden spoon until adhering to the
back, when pour over the tails, and serve very hot.
No. 158. _Ox Cheeks_ are very delicate when well stewed, and may be
purchased very cheap; they require soaking all night, and about six
hours to blanch in salt water, until the flesh will detach easily from
the bone, when take it out, remove the bone, place some onion, carrot,
and turnip, in slices, in a large flat stewpan, with a piece of bacon, a
few sprigs of thyme, parsley, and two bay-leaves, cover with a little
stock (if any) or water, place the flesh from the cheek over, put in a
moderate oven until very tender, when take up, dress upon a dish, and
serve with a sharp sauce over.
Ox cheeks may also be served in currie, or converted into a ragout after
blanching, as directed for ox tails.
Should you happen to have the remains of a fresh ox tongue, it would be
very good cut in slices, warmed, and served with a sharp sauce, or
hashed; the remains of a pickled one may be used in any little made dish
of veal, or poultry, hereafter described; to some persons it is,
however, preferable cold.
No. 159. _Ox Kidneys_ are very good for breakfast or luncheon; cut the
kidneys into thin slices, avoiding the piece in the centre, put two
ounces of butter in a stewpan, with a little chopped eschalots, place
over the fire; when becoming a little browned add the kidneys, which
keep stirring for five minutes still over the fire, add half a
tablespoonful of flour (mix well), two glasses of sherry, two of water,
half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, one of chopped
parsley, and a bay-leaf, let simmer gently five minutes, not, however,
to boil, or they would become hard and indigestible; should the sauce be
too thin add a little butter and flour mixed together, it requires to be
sufficiently thick to envelope the kidneys; when done poor out upon a
dish, and serve very hot. A few raw mushrooms stewed with the kidneys is
also a great improvement.
A bullock’s heart is a favorite dish with some persons; soak an hoar in
lukewarm water to disgorge, dry, and stuff the interior with a good veal
stuffing, roast an hour and a half before a moderate fire, and serve
very hot, with a little veal sauce (see page 647) around; proceed the
same for calves’ or sheep’s hearts, but of course they will require less
time.
No. 160. _Calf’s Head._ Should you have any left from a previous dinner
it may be dressed in various ways. To hash calf’s head, cut into good
slices not too thin, or it would have a bad appearance; put a spoonful
of chopped onions in a stewpan, with a wineglassful of vinegar, six
peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a piece of glaze the size of
a walnut, and a gill of broth, reduce to half over the fire, then add
the slices of calf’s head and a gill more broth, season with a little
pepper and salt, when quite hot through add half an ounce of butter,
with which you have mixed a tablespoonful of flour, first breaking it
into four or five pieces, shake round over the fire until becoming a
little thickish, add a little colouring (No. 146) to give a light brown
colour; pour out upon your dish, and serve with a few slices of gherkins
sprinkled over.
Calf’s head may also be cut in slices, warmed, and served with some of
the sauces as directed for fillet of beef, or curried as for the
ox-tails (No. 156); hashed calf’s head, with a couple of spoonfuls of
currie-paste added, is also very excellent.
No. 161. _Calf’s Brains and Tongue._ Boil the tongue in stock or water
until tender, lay the brains in lukewarm water to disgorge, then
carefully take off all the skin, put about a quarter of a pound of
butter in a sauté-pan, rub all over the bottom, cut the brains in
slices, lay them in the pan, season with a little pepper, salt, and
lemon-juice, place over a moderate fire, and when set turn them over,
add about a gill of melted butter, and a little milk, if too thick,
season a little more if required, shake the sauté-pan round, moving the
brains from the bottom, but not breaking them, and pour upon a dish,
skin and trim the tongue, cut it in halves lengthwise, glaze and serve
dressed upon the brains. Sheep and lamb’s tongues and brains are dressed
in precisely the same manner as the calf’s.
No. 162. _Veal Cutlets, the English Method._ Procure a piece of fillet
of veal weighing about four pounds, from which (to the best advantage)
cut eight or ten pieces of the shape and size of fillets of fowl, season
lightly with a little pepper and salt, have a couple of eggs, well
beaten, upon a plate, into which dip the cutlets, and afterwards into
bread-crumbs, beat lightly; then cut four or five slices of streaked
bacon, which fry in a sauté or frying-pan; when done take out and lay in
the cutlets, which fry of a nice light brown colour, dress the bacon and
cutlets alternately upon your dish, pour as much fat as possible out of
the pan, into which pour a quarter of a pint of water, and the same of
melted butter; boil until becoming rather thickish, when add a
tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, one of catsup, a little colouring (No.
146), and a little pepper and salt, boil another second, pass through a
sieve over the cutlets, and serve. Veal cutlets cut and fried as above
may also be served upon some very light mashed potatoes, omitting the
sauce.
No. 163. _Sweetbreads._ I never can procure sweetbreads at home except
in the autumn or winter season of the year, so many families being then
out of town, they may be procured at a very reasonable price; I usually
dress them thus: lay them in water three or four hours to disgorge,
blanch two minutes in boiling water, take out and put them into another
stewpan, with a few slices of onions, carrot, turnip, a little parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf, six peppercorns, a blade of mace, and a small piece of
bacon, cover over with a little broth if any, place over the fire, and
let boil about twenty minutes, then take out, dry them on a cloth, egg
all over, throw into bread-crumbs, run a skewer through each, tie them
to a spit and roast of a nice brown colour before a sharp fire, a
quarter of an hour would be sufficient; they might also be browned in a
hot oven, or fried in very hot lard or dripping ten minutes; then,
however, they must be stewed rather longer; serve them with vegetable
garniture of any description, if peas, merely plain boiling them,
putting them in a stewpan, with a little sugar, pepper, salt, and a
piece of fresh butter, toss them round over the fire until very hot,
pour them into the dish, and dress the sweetbreads over, or serve with
French beans dressed also in the same manner, spinach dressed as
directed (page 43), or merely with the following sauce: put a gill of
melted butter into a stewpan, with a spoonful of Harvey or Reading
sauce, and a little catsup, boil altogether, and if too thick add a
little water. If I cannot meet with heart sweetbreads, I in general
satisfy myself with the throats.
No. 164. _Calf’s Liver Stewed, French fashion._ Procure a small delicate
liver, cut twenty pieces of fat bacon, three inches in length and a
quarter of an inch square, season with a little pepper, salt, and
chopped parsley, then with a larding-needle run them into the liver
crosswise, put two ounces of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan,
with half a pound of lean uncooked ham, keep stirring over a sharp fire
until the ham becomes rather brownish, then lay in the liver, cover the
stewpan, stir round occasionally until the liver has become quite firm
and of a brownish colour; then add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter
of one of pepper, forty button onions, twenty young carrots (or twenty
pieces of old, previously blanched), half a pint of water, a bunch of
parsley, with three sprigs of thyme and two bay-leaves (tied together),
four cloves, and a blade of mace, let simmer twenty minutes; then add
twenty new potatoes, or old ones cut of the same size, cover the
stewpan, and let stew gently until all the vegetables are done, when
take out the bunch of herbs, dress the liver upon a dish, with the
vegetables and ham around it, skim all the fat from the gravy in the
stewpan, pour over the vegetables and serve; if any remain, it is
excellent made hot the next day, or even to be eaten cold.
No. 165. _Calf’s Liver Fried._ Cut the liver into slices the eighth of
an inch in thickness, dip them in flour, and fry them in a sauté or
frying-pan, in which you have previously fried some slices of streaked
bacon, fry the liver until quite browned and rather crisp, when take out
and place it upon a dish with the bacon, pour as much of the fat as
possible from the pan, pour in a quarter of a pint of water, when
boiling add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have
mixed a teaspoonful of flour, shake the pan round over the fire until
becoming rather thickish, season with a little Harvey sauce, catsup,
pepper, and salt, if too thick add a little more water, pour over the
liver and serve. Or, for variation, after the liver is well fried, take
it out and put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in the pan, set upon
the fire a minute, then pour off the greater part of the fat, add a
teaspoonful of flour, mix well in, and half a pint of broth or water,
boil until forming a thickish sauce, season with pepper, salt, two
spoonfuls of vinegar, a little sugar, and half a teaspoonful of mixed
mustard, set upon the fire until quite hot, pour over the liver and
serve. Or liver may be served plain fried with bacon, without any sauce
whatever. Sheep or lamb’s liver may be dressed precisely in the same
manner.
With the remains of a joint of veal, either roasted, boiled, or braised,
I make mince, hashes, blanquettes, and even pies. For a blanquette
of veal cut about a pound into thin slices of the size of
half-crown-pieces, add also a few slices of cooked tongue, ham, or
streaked bacon, season well with about a teaspoonful of chopped onions,
half ditto of salt, and a quarter ditto of white pepper, add a gill of
broth or water, warm gently, and when quite hot add a piece of butter
the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour,
shake round over the fire, when becoming thickish add half a gill of
milk or cream, with which you have mixed the yolk of an egg, stir in
quickly, add the juice of half a lemon, and serve (it must not boil
after the egg and cream have been added) with triangular pieces of
toasted or fried bread round. A blanquette of lamb made in the same
manner is equally good. With the bones you may make a little stock by
chopping them up into small pieces, and putting them into a stewpan,
with an onion in slices, a bay-leaf, bunch of parsley, and a little raw
ham, add water according to the quantity of bones, and boil rather more
than half an hour, convert it into sauce by thickening with a little
butter and flour, and use for hash; to make which cut the meat into
small thin slices, put into a stewpan, with sufficient of the above
sauce to moisten it, let simmer ten minutes, add two spoonfuls of
vinegar and four gherkins in slices, season with a little white pepper
and salt; pour upon your dish and serve.
No. 166. _Minced Veal and Poached Eggs_ are also a very favorite dish;
from the remains of veal cut about a pound of the lean, with a little of
the fat, and two ounces of cooked ham into very small dice, put a
tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with half an ounce of
butter, place over the fire, keep stirring until the onions change
colour slightly, then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with
half a pint of stock or milk, let boil ten minutes, add the mince,
season well with white pepper and salt, when quite hot stir in a yolk of
egg, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, do not let boil
afterwards, finish with the juice of half a lemon, and pour upon your
dish; have ready poached six eggs, by having a stewpan upon the fire
with one quart of water, quarter of an ounce of salt, and a quarter of a
gill of vinegar, when boiling break in six eggs separately, let boil
from three to four minutes, draw off the fire, take them out with a
colander spoon, drain a moment upon a cloth, dress upon the mince, pour
a little melted butter over each, and serve with triangular pieces of
fried bread round.
Minced lamb, beef, or mutton is done the same, using stock or water
instead of milk, and letting the onions with the thickening become a
little brown over the fire, likewise omit the yolk of egg and cream,
serve with the eggs precisely the same; any kind of mince must be rather
thick that the eggs may rest on it. By finishing the minced veal with
the yolks of three eggs, stirring a moment over the fire until set, and
pouring upon a dish until cold, you can serve it in any shaped
croquettes you please, taking pieces from it of the size you may
require, shaping them with a knife, dipping twice into eggs and
bread-crumbs, patting them gently, frying a light brown colour in a
stewpan of hot lard or dripping, and serving upon a napkin garnished
with fried parsley; they may be made in oblong shapes, the size and
length of small sausages, and fried as above: they are then called
boudins.
Patties may also be made from cooked veal, preparing a blanquette as
before described, and leaving it upon a dish until cold; line six large
patty-pans very thinly with half puff paste (see page 480), lay some of
the veal in the centre of each, sprinkle a little water over, and cover
with sheets of the same paste of the thickness of a five-shilling piece,
egg over, crimp the edges a little with a knife, place a leaf of paste
upon the top of each, and bake about twenty minutes in a very hot oven
until the paste is well done.
The remains of poultry, game, or any other description of meat, may also
be converted into patties in the same method as above.
The remains of meat dressed as for the above patties is also very
excellent for larger pies, filling the dish with it, when cold covering
with paste, and baking in a rather warm oven.
No. 167. _Mutton Cutlets Sautés._ Cut eight cutlets from a neck of
mutton, as directed (page 294), and put them into a sauté-pan, with an
ounce of butter, season well with pepper and salt, place over the fire,
when becoming a little browned turn them over, when firm to the touch
they are done (which will take about ten minutes); take up and dress
them upon your dish, pour as much of the fat as possible from the pan,
add a quarter of a pint of water or broth, let boil until becoming a
thin glaze, add a little sugar and a spoonful of Harvey sauce, pour over
the cutlets and serve. Should you want a thick sauce you can obtain it
by adding a small piece of butter, with which you have mixed a little
flour, to the gravy in the sauté-pan, adding also a little colouring
(No. 146).
No. 168. _Mutton Cutlets Sautés, with Vegetables._ Dress the cutlets as
in the last, have some vegetables of all kinds (that is, carrots,
turnips, artichokes, and button onions), cut up small, stew them in a
little broth with a little sugar until tender, when pour them into the
sauté-pan you cooked the cutlets in, reduce until the stock becomes a
thin glaze, then dress the vegetables in the centre of the cutlets,
sauce over, and serve.
No. 169. _Mutton Cutlets, Irish Method._ Cut eight or ten mutton
cutlets, season well with pepper and salt, place them in a stewpan, just
cover them with water, let simmer gently twenty minutes, then add forty
button onions, and as many pieces of potatoes, cut with a scoop in
pieces a size larger; stew until tender, dress the cutlets in a circle
upon your dish, with the vegetables in the centre, skim off some of the
fat from the stock in the sauté-pan, reduce a little, sauce over, and
serve.
No. 170. _Mutton Cutlets Broiled._ Cut eight or ten cutlets, season well
with pepper and salt, dip them into eggs, then into bread-crumbs, beat
gently with a knife, have a little butter in a stewpan, which melt over
the fire; dip each cutlet into the butter, and again into bread-crumbs,
beat again lightly, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire;
when lightly coloured upon one side turn them over; they will require
about ten minutes to cook thoroughly; serve plain dressed upon your
dish.
Dressed as above they may likewise be served with a maître d’hôtel sauce
made thus: put half a pint of melted butter into a stewpan with a piece
of glaze the size of a walnut, when boiling add two ounces of maître
d’hôtel butter (see p. 33), shake the stewpan round over the fire; when
quite hot pour in the dish with the cutlets, have ready some thin slices
of potatoes fried as for the fillet of beef, dress in pyramid in the
centre, and serve.
No. 171. _Mutton Cutlets Harricoed._ Cut ten cutlets from a neck of
mutton, leaving them rather short, not beating them flat, and taking off
some of the fat; put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, lay in the
cutlets, which well season with pepper and salt; set upon a moderate
fire, turning them round occasionally until of a lightish brown colour,
then add a good spoonful of flour; mix well, and moisten with a quart of
water, keep stirring until boiling, throw in twenty small onions, twenty
small pieces of carrots, and the same of turnips (each about the size of
walnuts), and a small bunch of parsley, with two bay-leaves; let simmer
until the vegetables are done, skim well, take out the cutlets, which
dress in crown upon a dish, place the vegetables in the centre, reduce
the sauce if required, which pour over and serve. Should it be
convenient, it would be as well to pass the vegetables by putting about
a quarter of an ounce of powdered sugar into a stewpan; place over the
fire, and when melted add two ounces of butter and the vegetables, which
keep tossing over the fire until covered with a kind of glaze, when put
them into the stewpan with the cutlets; it gives the harrico quite a
peculiar and good flavour.
No. 172. _Ragout of Mutton en Currie._ Peel and slice four large onions,
which put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, place over a
moderate fire, and when becoming lightly browned and pulpy lay in ten
cutlets as in the last; move round occasionally until a little brown,
when add a good spoonful of currie-powder and the half of one of flour;
mix well, moisten with a pint of water, let simmer twenty minutes, or
until the mutton is quite tender, finish with a little sugar, salt, and
lemon-juice, take out the cutlets, which dress in circle upon a dish,
have ready some boiled rice (p. 51) very hot, which dress in pyramid in
the centre; pass the sauce through a tammie, pour over the cutlets, and
serve.
No. 173. _Mutton Currie._ Peel and slice four large onions as in the
last, fry the same, have ready two pounds of lean mutton cut into square
pieces the size of walnuts, put into the stewpan with the fried onions;
let remain ten minutes over the fire, stirring frequently, then add a
tablespoonful of currie-powder and one of currie-paste; mix well in, let
remain over a slow fire until the mutton is tender, season with a little
salt and lemon-juice, pour out upon your dish, and serve with boiled
rice separate.
Lamb cutlets are dressed precisely as the mutton; but when bread-crumbed
and broiled they are very good served with peas or French beans,
previously boiled, and placed in a stewpan with an ounce of fresh
butter, a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when quite hot stir in half a
gill of cream, with which you have well mixed the yolk of an egg, stir
in quickly, pour out upon your dish, dress the cutlet over, and serve.
No. 174. _Pork Cutlets Sautés._ Cut six or eight good-sized cutlets from
the neck, of the same shape as the mutton, lay them in a buttered
sauté-pan, season well with pepper and salt, place over the fire; when
done lay them upon a plate, pour some of the fat from the sauté-pan, add
a good tablespoonful of chopped onions, pass over the fire a minute,
then add a teaspoonful of flour; moisten with half a pint of broth or
water, with a piece of glaze added, season a little more, add a bay-leaf
and a teaspoonful of vinegar, with one of mustard, mix well, lay in the
cutlets until quite hot, when dress upon a dish, sauce over, and serve.
This sauce is good with any kind of cutlets, but especially pork.
No. 175. _Pork Cutlets aux Cornichons._ Cut six or eight cutlets from a
middling-sized neck of pork, season well with pepper and salt, dip in
eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into grated crust of bread (not
too brown); put two ounces of lard or butter into a sauté or frying-pan,
lay in the cutlets and fry very slowly; when done place them upon a
dish; keep hot, pour some of the fat from the pan, add a good
teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth or
water with a piece of glaze, add half a wineglassful of vinegar, a
little salt, pepper, and six gherkins in slices, place the cutlets in
the pan to warm gently in the sauce, then dress them upon a dish, sauce
over, and serve.
No. 176. _Pork Cutlets, Sauce demi Robert._ Cut eight cutlets from a
neck as before, season well with pepper and salt, sprinkle chopped
onions and parsley over upon both sides, beating the cutlets lightly to
make them adhere, then dip them into eggs well beaten upon a plate, and
then into bread-crumbs; pat them lightly, have some clarified butter in
a stewpan, into which dip the cutlets, and again into bread-crumbs, well
covering them, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, broiling
a nice light brown colour; when done dress them upon a dish. Have ready
the following sauce: cut two large onions into very small dice, put them
into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, fry of a light yellow colour,
add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth
and two spoonfuls of vinegar, season well, let boil, skim, and reduce,
until rather thick, when add a spoonful of mixed mustard, one of
colouring (No. 146); sauce in the centre of the cutlets and serve.
No. 177. _Hashed Pork._ Put two spoonfuls of chopped onions into a
stewpan with a wineglassful of vinegar, two cloves, a blade of mace, and
a bay-leaf, reduce to half, take out the spice and bay-leaf, add half a
pint of broth or water, cut some pork previously cooked into thin small
slices, season well upon a dish with pepper and salt, shake a good
teaspoonful of flour over, mix all together, and put into the stewpan;
let simmer gently ten minutes, pour out upon your dish, and serve with
slices of gherkins in it; a little mustard may be added if approved of,
or a little piccalilly with the vinegar is excellent.
The remains of salt pork, though very palatable cold, if required hot
may be cut into large thin slices, and placed in a buttered sauté or
frying-pan, with a little broth, or merely fried in the butter, and
served with a puree of winter peas, made by boiling half a pint of peas
until tender (tied up in a cloth); when done put them into a stewpan
with two ounces of butter; season with pepper and salt, add a gill of
milk or cream, pour into the dish, and dress the pork over.
No. 178. _Pig’s Liver._ Procure a nice pig’s liver with the caul, cut
the liver into good-sized slices of the shape of hearts, season with a
little pepper, salt, and cayenne, sprinkle chopped eschalots and dried
sage over, and fold each piece of liver in a piece of the caul; put some
butter in a sauté or frying-pan, lay them in, place over the fire, let
fry rather quickly, not too dry; when done it will be a beautiful
colour; take out and dress in circle upon your dish; have ready the
following sauce: put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with
one of catsup, and two of Harvey or Worcestershire sauce; when boiling
pour over the liver and serve.
To plain fry it, cut in slices, season with pepper and salt, dip in
flour, or eggs and bread-crumbs, fry a light brown in butter or lard,
dress in a circle upon your dish, pour a gill of water into the pan, add
a little Harvey sauce and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with
which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour; let boil a minute, add
a little pepper and salt, sauce over and serve.
No. 179. _Pigs’ Kidneys._ Cut them open lengthwise, season well with
pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, dip into bread-crumbs,
with which you have mixed some chopped parsley and eschalot, run a
skewer through to keep them open, and broil for about a quarter of an
hour over a good fire; when done place them upon a dish, have ready an
ounce of butter, with which you have mixed the juice of a lemon, a
little pepper and salt, and a teaspoonful of French or common mustard,
place a piece upon each of the kidneys, place in the oven for one minute
and serve. Pigs’ kidneys may also be sautéd as directed for ox kidneys
(No. 159).
No. 180. _Black Puddings._ Very few people take the trouble to do them
at home, it being part of the business of the pork butcher to prepare
such delicacies. I shall, however, here describe a very simple method
for making them more palatable than those purchased in England, which
have so much spice in them as to entirely destroy their delicate
flavour. Cut into rather small dice twenty large onions, having cut off
the roots, being hard, put them into a stewpan with half a pound of lard
or butter, let stew gently, cut three pounds of pig’s flead, free from
skin, into small dice, have ready boiled six heads of endive chopped
fine, and put into the stewpan with the onions, add two ounces of salt,
a saltspoonful of pepper, half a nutmeg, grated, and four spoonfuls of
parsley, chopped with a little thyme and bay-leaf; then add six pints of
pig’s blood, mix well, leaving no lumps; if too thin add a few handfuls
of bread-crumbs, or half a pound of well-boiled rice; have ready the
small intestines, which well scrape and wash in salt and water, tie one
end upon a tin funnel, having a piece a yard in length, closing it at
the other end, fill with the above preparation by pressing through a
funnel; take off the funnel, tie up the end, and put them into a stewpan
of nearly boiling water, let simmer twenty minutes, pricking them
occasionally with a pin; when no blood oozes out they are done; take up
and place them upon a dish until cold; when ready to serve cut into
pieces four inches in length, cut through the skin at different places,
broil ten minutes over a sharp fire, serve plain, but very hot.
These puddings are best made whilst the blood is still warm from the
pig, which if killed at home, the other ingredients may be prepared
previously. The endive may be omitted, but for a real epicure procure it
if possible; they are served in France on the best of tables, and are
quite worthy of that honour. Many kinds of black puddings are also made
in Scotland, where they more frequently use sheep’s blood, using the
interior of the sheep, fat and all, in the same proportions as if made
of a pig, adding oatmeal, omitting part of the onions, and using the
larger entrails.
It being usual in this country to introduce leeks, you must then omit
the bread-crumbs and rice, or part of the onions. To prevent the blood
curdling, it must be salted, by adding a handful of salt, and whisking
well for ten minutes as soon as you obtain it from the pig.
Rice well boiled in broth but not too much so, is an excellent addition
to black puddings (half a pound for the above quantity being quite
sufficient), or grated bread; leeks also may be used instead of endive,
or both may be omitted. I have mentioned these different articles, that
if one cannot be procured, another might be used instead, fill also very
even, mixing fat and all well together, carefully avoid letting any air
get in, or they would burst in boiling.
No. 181. _Excellent Sausage Cakes._ Chop some lean pork very fine,
having previously detached all the skin and bone, and to every pound of
meat add three quarters of a pound of fat bacon, half an ounce of salt,
a saltspoonful of pepper, the quarter of a nutmeg grated, six young
green chopped onions, and a little chopped parsley; when the whole is
well chopped put into a mortar and pound well, finishing with three
eggs; then have ready a pig’s caul, which cut into pieces large enough
to fold a piece of the above preparation the size of an egg, which wrap
up, keeping the shape of an egg, but rather flattened, and broil very
gently over a moderate fire.
No. 182. _Pigs’ Feet._ Procure six pigs’ feet, nicely salted, which boil
in water, to which you have added a few vegetables, until well done, cut
each one in halves, take out the long bone, have some sausage meat as in
the last, and a pig’s caul, which cut into pieces each large enough to
fold half a foot, well surrounded with sausage-meat, when well wrapped
up broil slowly half an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. Or, when
the pigs’ feet are well boiled, egg over, and throw them into some
grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed a little parsley; broil
a nice colour and serve with a little plain gravy.