[Illustration: PLAN OF THE KITCHEN DEPARTMENT OF THE REFORM CLUB.]
KITCHEN OF THE REFORM CLUB, &c.
(A.) LA BOUCHERIE.
This essential part of the kitchen department is complete in its several
arrangements, and one cannot help noticing that in spite of the moderate
size of this room everything is contrived with the utmost convenience,
perfect ventilation, and with due economy. As this small space is fully
adequate to the general wants of this large kitchen, it must, therefore,
be equally good for one of smaller dimensions. My object not being to
fix the size of all private boucheries according to this, it therefore
must be left to localities, and the details below may be taken as a
general principle. The length of the room is twelve feet by nine; at the
further corners are two blocks to cut the meat upon, which are two feet
in diameter, and two feet seven inches high, including the supporters,
eight inches from the floor, giving facility to clean underneath, also
to prevent decay; between the two blocks is a patent scale of a simple
construction, and very convenient, upon which can be weighed above two
hundred pounds of meat with great ease. On the right and left are two
tables, three inches thick, six feet six inches long, one foot nine
inches wide, and three feet three inches high, with a drawer to each,
and a square box covered over, underneath the tables, for waste fat,
&c.; above the tables is a flat rod with small hooks, one inch and a
half long and three inches apart, upon which are various sized
meat-hooks; all round the room upon the walls are thick slates, six feet
high. Those slates lately introduced in building I would particularly
recommend where coolness is required, and also as being very clean.
(B.) PRINCIPAL LARDER FOR MEAT AND GAME.
The gastronomic variety generally collected in this sanctuary of taste
requires the utmost care and cleanliness, the joints prepared for the
day arranged with symmetry and taste, so as to present to the eye the
finest sides, the same respecting the dressed meat dishes and cold
poultry, which should always be trimmed and garnished with fresh
parsley, ready to be served up at a moment’s notice. A good ventilation,
being of the utmost importance, should be particularly attended to. The
following dimensions will greatly assist for the contrivance of a larder
perfectly convenient if built with the same proportions.
The size is eighteen feet long and fifteen feet wide, having on the
right side a dresser fourteen feet long, three wide, and two feet ten
inches high, the top is of slate one inch thick, instead of wood, which
is an excellent substitute, and always covered with a dresser cloth;
there are eight ice drawers opening on castors, when large and deep as
these, it is advisable to make them in a similar manner running on
castors, as their weight would otherwise cause them to open with
difficulty. The first four are two feet eight inches square and nine
inches deep, lined with lead, and principally for jellies, ice creams,
&c., the others beneath are deeper, for pickling-tubs; the temperature
is from thirty-five to forty degrees, allowing comestibles of the most
delicate kind to be kept a considerable time without deteriorating their
qualities. The construction of those drawers is considered ingenious;
the bottom being inclined on each side towards the middle, which forms
a channel at the end of which there is a small drain to let the ice
water escape without the assistance of hands, having at the back a pipe
to receive the waste water running into other pipes outside.
On the left going in there is another sideboard of the same material,
eight feet and a half long and two feet wide, there are six drawers all
of them lined with lead, and (which might be called simply
ice-preservers, being almost free from air, and only now and then
refreshed with ice at a trifling expense) from five to six inches thick,
covered with a zinc plate to fit the drawer, and a cloth over it for
chops, steaks, aspics, entrées, and a variety of things always kept
fresh and tender; the woodcut below gives the exact form of the drawers
as described above. It will be worth consideration to adopt the plan in
all larders, as they certainly have the several advantages of preserving
ice for a long time, and keeping in readiness any sort of prepared
dishes, and even the flavour of fruit to perfection.
[Illustration: ICE DRAWERS AND DRESSER.]
At the end of this sideboard is a slate well, three feet six inches
long, two feet wide, and one foot deep, supplied with hot and cold
water; this well is used for soaking hams, tongues, and calf’s head;
adjoining is a slab for opening oysters, under which is a well to keep
them in.
In the middle of the larder is a dresser-table, ten feet long and two
feet four inches wide, covered with a tablecloth, to depose fresh
provisions ready for the day’s dressing.
On the right going in are fixed divisions, boxes made of slate, for
vegetables, very simple and very useful, each having sliding fronts of
wood to facilitate cleaning. The first row is ten feet long, divided
into eleven parts, namely, five of one foot one inch opening and eight
inches deep, six inches high in front, and ten inches at the back, the
other six are smaller; the lower divisions are for large vegetables, and
consequently of greater dimensions, divided into seven boxes, five of
which are one foot seven inches deep, nine inches high in front, and one
foot five inches at the back, with one foot five inches opening, the
other two are for potatoes.
The whole appearance of the above boxes is agreeable, for you see at
once all the various productions of the kitchen garden the most in
season, and kept separate. There is something new in the plan which
might easily be adopted. It is remarkably clean and cool. Too often
vegetables are kept in drawers, or mixed together in any corners; where
as if fitted in this style, a gardener or greengrocer, without asking
what is wanted, can observe it at once, and replenishes all empty boxes,
seeing actually what is required and not supplying by guess.
[Illustration: VEGETABLE BOXES.]
[Illustration: SUSPENDED FRAME FOR MEAT, GAME, ETC.]
[Illustration: MEAT HOOK.]
On the ceiling suspended by fixed iron rods is a large frame ten feet
long, and six wide, divided into three parts, having eight iron rods,
one on each side of the transverse battens to hang up the joints, game,
poultry, &c.; by means of loose and moveable hooks tinned over of a
particular form, very easy to remove from and hook on the frame with the
joints or other articles upon it, by the aid of a long handle with a
double hook, there being a hole in the centre of the meat hook for that
purpose, thus avoiding pricking any unnecessary holes in the meat.
(C.) THE COLD MEAT AND SAUCE LARDER. This room, close to the other, is
thirteen feet long and eleven feet wide; on the right is a meat-safe
constructed on a new principle for keeping cold meat, and by which flies
are always excluded. The doors by a simple contrivance open and shut as
it were by themselves, by means of a cord and a weight, which draws
them, the same as a sash rolling upon pullies, in a groove with iron
plates in it, through which two pins are fixed six inches apart; on
pushing the door open the pin is raised underneath to stop it, and by a
retrograde motion of the elbow when taking a dish out the said pin
drops, and the door shuts of itself, it is so quickly done that there is
hardly time for a fly to get in, besides the wires are so close that the
impediment is complete, in addition to that an excellent current of air
always prevails. The meat-safe is four feet high, six feet wide, and
three feet deep, with two shelves inside; under it, between the bottom
and the floor, is a shelf for jars and kitchen basins, &c.
[Illustration: MEAT SAFE.]
On the opposite side is a slate dresser eleven feet long and two feet
three inches wide, with a skirting all along, seven inches high;
underneath at the further end is a cupboard, three feet long, with
shelves for china, by the side is a shelf for jars, &c.; above the
dresser there are two shelves the whole length and two feet wide, for
preserves and bottles and jars of all sizes.
(D.) PASTRY AND CONFECTIONERY. This important part of the kitchen
department may appear small at first view, being only eight feet long
and thirteen feet wide, but the arrangement is in every respect
perfectly convenient. A marble slab, five feet nine inches long and
three feet wide, on a level with the window, with two ice-drawers
beneath, one for butter and eggs, and the other for preserving various
forcemeats, salad, sauces, &c., is sufficient for the work of two
pastrycooks. On the right is a marble mortar, with a long-handled pestle
going through a ring fixed in the wall, and on the left a flour-bin
covered. Underneath are divisions for scales, weights, and sundry
implements, on the right and left are dressers, two feet and a half
wide, with two rows of drawers, where rolling-pins, cutters for all
kinds of pastry, and sugar-sieves are kept. Above, at one foot four
inches from the dresser, are closets, one foot six inches in depth and
eight feet frontage, with three sliding doors. Within are divisions to
put away fancy ornamental pieces and useful articles and ingredients for
that tasty department; in this as well as in the other three rooms there
is an admirable coolness, absolutely necessary for the making of pastry,
and preserving it when completed. Any pastry or entremet which requires
to be kept dry, such as meringues, maccaroons, almond paste, &c., must
be kept in a closet in the kitchen.
(E.) HEAD COOK’S OFFICE AND PARLOUR. This room, nineteen feet long and
thirteen feet wide, is conveniently situated on the same floor with the
others, and very handy by its proximity to the kitchen; it is well
fitted up with a closet for superior preserves and all kinds of new
light kitchen utensils.
[Illustration: PESTLE AND MORTAR.]
[Illustration: FISH SLAB.]
(F.) PASSAGE. This space is three-and-thirty feet long and nine feet
wide, dividing the rooms above described from the kitchen, although a
passage, it is particularly useful; on the right from the second larder,
and immediately under the stairs, there is fixed a white marble slab,
four feet long and three feet three inches in width, surrounded with a
slate border, of three inches in height, the slab is used for keeping
fresh and cool all the fish brought in for use; at the extremity of the
slab, which is an inclined plane, there is an horizontal shower-pipe
supplied with iced water from a cistern above. On the opposite side, all
along the wall, there is an hour shelf, thirteen feet and a half long
and one foot six inches wide, divided by numbers showing the hour when
dishes are to be cooked, which is from five to eight at night.
Upon the same line on the left is another dresser, four feet and a half
long and three feet wide, to cool sauces and stock before they are
removed to the second larder to be put by the side of those already
cooled; a rule I would recommend, because the fermentation of hot sauces
or stock would affect those in the second larder if put there whilst
hot.
At the end of the passage on the right, and above the kitchen door, is a
ventilating screen four feet square; it is a simple frame with two
cross-pieces covered with canvas, and fixed horizontally above the door,
with hinges so as to move it up and down at will, which is done by means
of a cord nailed in the middle of the frame and passed through two
pullies fixed in the ceiling, and tied with hooks on the wall opposite;
you make use of the cord the same as for a Venetian blind, the only
difference is, that you keep moving it up and down all the time required
to diminish the heat of the kitchen. No one would suppose, without
seeing it perform, what surprising effect this simple contrivance
produces, as the ascending movement draws away the heat from the kitchen
into the passage, and introduces fresh air into it perfectly unexpected;
it is only on particular occasions, and in the heat of summer that it is
made use of, as the ventilation of this kitchen is everything that can
be wished for, it was more as a model for confined kitchens that I have
applied this extra-ventilating screen.
(G.) A small back yard, nine feet long and seven feet wide, separated
from the passage by a glass partition and doors, wherein are deposited
various things for kitchen use, and ice creams frozen.
(H.) In the small passage leading to the roasting kitchen there is a
lift worked by steam, to hoist coals to the sleeping-rooms; and a
gas-meter inclosed in a wooden box for the supply of the gas-stoves in
the principal kitchen.
(I.) Passage leading to and from the roasting kitchen.
(J.) The kitchen-maids’ dining-room, eight feet square, fitted with
drawers, tables, closets, &c.; the entrance in the passage above
mentioned.
(K.) ROASTING KITCHEN. On entering into this room you see in a direct
line the vegetable kitchen and the scullery. On the left there is a low
cast-iron French stove for boiling large joints and making stock which
has been previously boiled on a quick fire, and removed there to simmer
gently; this stove is two feet seven inches long, two feet nine inches
wide, and one foot nine inches high, and is purposely made low on
account of the great weight lifted on and off. In the centre is a grate,
one foot square, for charcoal. Contiguous to it is another cast-iron
stove, or hot plate, the waste fire of which heats the small oven for
gratins, soufflés, &c. (see opposite). It is five feet long by two feet
nine inches wide, and the same in height. At the end, on a line with the
fire-place, is the steam-closet, six feet high, four feet and a half
wide, and two feet deep, forming three shelves with the bottom to keep
the dishes very hot as well as the roasts; near it is the large roasting
fire-place, six feet and a half wide and five feet and a half high. The
grate is five feet wide and three feet high, and very shallow, giving a
great heat at a comparatively small expense; a boiler is at the back,
which holds one hundred gallons of water always hot, and amply
sufficient for all kitchen purposes; the salamander is also easily and
quickly heated at the same fire without interfering with the roasts,
having a place formed in the front of the grate purposely for its
reception.
[Illustration: CHARCOAL STOVE AND HOT PLATE.]
In front of the roasting fire-place is a closet-screen, six feet wide,
two feet deep, and six feet high, to keep all joints very warm. The plan
of this screen differs from the common ones; the back, fronting the
fire, is covered with iron sheeting; the front shuts in with sliding
doors, forming two separate closets, the top being only sixteen inches
high, and the lower four feet high, with two iron grated shelves; the
doors being kept shut, there is always a regular heat. What renders this
screen a perfect desideratum, are the two folding leaves at each end,
fastened with hinges and completely inclosing the fire, thereby
preventing the smoke escaping, and also the heat from being felt even
close to the screen; and the advantage of the whole is, that
notwithstanding the immense fire, presenting a surface of fifteen feet
square, no inconvenience results from it. (See Cut, page 622).
Lower down is a large cast-iron oven for pastry, six feet nine inches
high, four feet nine inches wide, divided into two parts, one above the
other, each of two feet opening, one foot nine inches high, and two feet
six inches deep, with grated shelves.
Joining the oven there is a French stove, three feet two inches long and
two feet four inches wide, with one grating, to boil delicate
vegetables.
Above, in the thickness of the wall, is a cistern two feet long, two
feet four inches deep, and one foot wide, to keep the large boiler
behind the roasting fire-grate constantly supplied with water.
Opposite is a sash window, by which roasts and vegetables for the
coffee-room are handed to the waiters; beneath the window is a closet
for plates and dishes, the top of which is of cast-iron and warmed by
steam, thus dishes are removed from one hot place to another until they
reach their destination; the length is four feet eleven inches, and two
feet deep, with a sheet-iron shelf inside.
[Illustration: ROASTING RANGE.]
On the right side of this closet is a marble mortar of twenty inches
diameter, surrounded with wood-work and forming a pedestal, the pestle
with a long handle passes through a ring fastened in the wall, four feet
above.
Near to the above is the iron rack to hang up all the spits and other
implements. It consists of two half rings, to each of which are attached
scroll hooks. The hook on the upper ring supports the wheel end of a
spit, and the lower hook holds the point.
Further on, next to the door leading to the principal kitchen, is a
dresser, eight feet long and two feet wide, to unspit the roasted joints
or other purposes.
(L.) VEGETABLE KITCHEN. At the end of the roasting kitchen, and only
divided by an arch twelve feet in span, you enter this room, fifteen
feet long and sixteen wide; in the centre is a deal table, nine feet
long and two feet two inches wide, with drawers.
On the left, upon a wide shelf, are three steam-boilers, two of them
square, to cook potatoes, and the other for steaming puddings, &c.; the
square ones might be taken as models, they are one foot five inches
square, and one foot high, divided into four parts, forming four
distinct compartments in one.
The round boiler is fifteen inches in diameter. The front of the shelf
has a groove under the tap of the steamers to let out the water produced
by the steam, which runs into the sink; a draining-board is next to the
steamers, where vegetables are deposited after they are washed.
Next is the vegetable sink, three feet nine inches long, two feet six
inches wide, and one foot eight inches deep, with two taps for hot and
cold water. Against the glass partition, on each side of the door which
leads to the scullery, are two dressers, six feet long and two feet four
inches wide, with four open divisions under each, for sundry articles of
kitchen utensils. On the right are two sinks, three feet six inches
long, two feet six inches wide, and one foot six inches deep, for
washing dishes, having two taps each, for hot and cold water.
Above is a plate-rack, eleven feet long and one foot deep, to dry plates
and dishes.
On the right side of the sinks is a delivery window with a closet
beneath, four feet long and two feet wide, serving as a dresser, from
which clean plates and dishes are sent to the coffee-room.
(M.) THE SCOURING SCULLERY AND STEAM BOILER. This room, on a level with
the vegetable kitchen, is thirteen feet long and seventeen feet wide; on
the left is a large dresser, or draining-board, with grooves, six feet
long and three feet and a half wide, to dry all the coppers after being
scoured; under it are large drawers. Above are two shelves the whole
length of the room for large pans and coppers.
Next to the dresser are two large sinks, three feet and a half long, two
and a half wide, and one foot and a half deep, with two taps for hot and
cold water.
Against the window, and close to the sink, is a thick scouring table,
three feet by two, with a box underneath for sand, &c.
On the right is the steam boiler, eight feet three inches long, six feet
wide, and five feet high, surrounded with bricks, and by which large
closets, bains maries, plates for delivery-windows and tables, are
heated, large coppers supplied with steam for cooking; also
dressing-rooms, baths, and closets in various parts of the house.
The appearance of these three rooms, each for a different purpose,
forms, as it were, only one room, well lighted, very cool, extremely
convenient, and without the least confusion.
(N.) BUTLER’S PANTRY. A large room, twenty-four feet long and seventeen
wide, including private room, with a fire-place, cupboards, sink, and
plenty of water; a large table is in the middle, where everything
belonging to his department is prepared.
(O.) BUTLER’S OFFICE. Well fitted up, and very convenient from its
proximity to the pantry and plate closet.
(P.) Iron closet for plate, fire-proof.
(Q.) A large passage leading out, and also to the back staircase, to the
coffee-room.
(R.) A lift, by which dinners are conveyed to the coffee-rooms either by
steam or by hands.
[Illustration: THE DINNER LIFT.]
(S.) The back staircase for servants.
(T.) PRINCIPAL KITCHEN. The size of this kitchen is twenty-eight feet
long and twenty-four wide; in the middle is an elm table, made on a plan
entirely original, having twelve irregular sides, and giving the utmost
facility for the various works of the kitchen, without any one
interfering with another. The principal length is twelve feet by seven
wide, and three inches thick. Under the edge of the table, in front, are
two sliding boards, two feet long and two inches and a half thick, which
are used for straining sauces, purées, &c.; as these sliding boards are
lower than the table they are particularly useful, and save an
additional width; below are two drawers, and at each end, in front, are
two little moveable copper buckets with water, handy for sponging off
any blood or mess left upon the board or table after the cutting of
poultry, game, or fish. In the same direction there are two columns
supporting the ceiling and passing through the table, round which, at a
convenient height, are copper cases lined with tin, in ten compartments,
each of which contains every ingredient and chopped herbs of the seasons
for flavouring dishes, such as salt, pepper, spices, sweet herbs, crumbs
and rasping of bread, eggs, chopped onions, &c.; the other contains
various sauces for fish dressed in the English style. These cases turn
round at will on castors fixed under it to the column, so that, without
moving from your place, you can get every ingredient you may require;
the diameters of the columns are one foot, and the cases for ingredients
project over three inches and a half; as columns are not always wanted
to support the ceiling of a kitchen, the cases might easily be
introduced on the table supported by a stand, turning in the same way
as, and similar in shape to a lamp.
In the middle of the table is a cast-iron steam closet, four feet one
inch long, two feet eleven inches wide, and two feet nine inches high,
with two sliding doors on each side, and a shelf inside for keeping
delicate entrées perfectly good for several hours, by means of two
different degrees of heat; above, five inches distant from the top, is a
grated iron shelf, all round upon which are placed middle-sized and
small stewpans, supported at each corner by little balusters, as it
projects beyond the closet it forms a cornice and gives it an elegant
appearance. The whole contrivance of this table is much more convenient
than might be imagined, by the number of useful objects a common table
is deprived of; I certainly could have had a table of large
dimensions[20] upon which great dinners might be laid out, as is
commonly done, but that was precisely what I wished to avoid, finding it
much more to the purpose, as soon as entrée dishes are ready, to put
them quickly into a warm place until wanted to be taken up, which is
done with regularity; every dish being numbered is placed upon the table
without confusion, and to all appearance as if the whole had just been
dressed, an advantage seldom if ever at the disposal of any chef de
cuisine, who generally finds it very difficult to dispose of dishes in a
fitting place to keep them in such a proper degree of heat as I obtain
with the steam closet. Many culinary artists who have seen it for the
first time question whether it is possible to dress a dinner of sixteen
entrées or more upon a table which is to all appearance inadequate to
the exigencies required; the only answer I can give is, that since I
have made use of it in very difficult circumstances, and with well known
artists, neither of them or those regularly employed in the kitchen of
the Reform Club have found anything contrary to good order, celerity,
and comfort in preparing everything wanted for a large dinner; therefore
I do not hesitate to recommend the above improvement in whatever kitchen
it may be, according to its several localities.
[Illustration: KITCHEN TABLE.]
On the right hand side of the table is a roasting fire-place,
principally used for game and poultry, on a plan entirely new, the size
is seven feet wide and five feet six inches high, the bars are
perpendicular and vertical, opening at one end, and supported upon
castors, which allows the cleaning of it with much more ease, and
affords access for the repairing of the boiler without pulling down any
of the works around it; at the back of the stove in front of the boiler
are thick Welsh lumps, by which hot water can be obtained twenty-four
hours after the fire is put out. The great advantage of this range is,
that from the smallest bird to the largest joint, even a baron of beef
can be cooked to perfection, although there is only four inches and a
half depth of coals. As the consumption of this article is much less in
a grate built on this principle, I expect that the old style of grates
will disappear. Another advantage is, that broiling can be done in a
very superior style, by means of a double gridiron suspended from an
extending bracket hooked over the top bar; for which see my Kitchen of
the Bachelor.
On the left, in the thickness of the wall, is a small cistern to supply
the boiler with water as it is drawn out hot on the right hand side.
A screen closet is placed before this fire, drawn on castors, seven feet
long, six feet high, and two feet wide, having two grated shelves for
dishes, and open to the fire, with sliding doors and flaps, the same as
the one described in the roasting kitchen.
Turning your back to the fire-place, on the right is a recess, ten feet
high, ten wide, and two and a half deep, forming an elliptic arch, in
which is fixed a dresser used for silver dishes, &c., previous to a
large dinner; underneath are four drawers for small kitchen utensils,
and above the dresser three shelves for tinned iron saucepans; in the
front of the shelves are suspended covers of various sizes and large
preserve-pans.
On the right, in another recess, six feet four inches high, four feet
three inches wide, and two feet and a half deep, there is also a
dresser, above it large dish covers.
In the recess of the same size on the left is fixed a low cast-iron
charcoal stove for boiling large fish, which is only used when large
fish are required to be stewed or boiled; when not in use for that
purpose it is covered with a thick board elevated one foot above, being
supported upon four strong feet in wood, thus forming a dresser upon
which to deposit any article previous to its being dressed at the
broiling or fish stoves; on each side are tin drainers for kitchen
spoons, &c., higher up are two rows of hooks for large dish covers; the
whole appearance of that side is pleasing to the eye, by the number of
various articles to be seen, its regularity, and the _brilliant
cleanliness of everything_. Facing the fire-place is a large cast iron
stove, heated with coals, twelve feet five inches long, and two feet ten
inches wide, divided into five parts, two of them are used for broiling
steaks, cotelettes, &c., and the others to boil and fry fish. On a
compass brass rod, and moveable, is fixed a fire-screen obliquely at the
end, to prevent the heat injuring the eyes, and at the same time acting
as a reflector in the interior of saucepans on the stove if required. At
the extremity of the stove is a bain marie, two feet eight inches
square, and seven inches deep, principally for keeping fish-sauces hot.
Next is a cast iron steam closet, four feet seven inches wide, two feet
two inches deep, divided into three parts, the two shelves are of iron,
two inches and a half thick, therein are deposited all the fish dressed
and waiting to be taken up.
Near it is another closet, five feet and a half long and two wide,
warmed also by steam, with sliding doors for china dishes and covers;
the top, which is on a level with the delivery window, is of cast iron
and heated by the same means, therefore every dish from the time they
are dressed up to the time they reach their destination, keeps moving
from one place to another in or upon places kept hot for that purpose.
[Illustration: GAS STOVES, ETC.]
In the corner next to delivery window is the desk for the clerk of the
kitchen, the size is four feet long and three feet wide, with a seat,
all the orders are sent from the dining-room by a wooden pipe of
communication, and after each dinner is served the bill is sent up in
the same way. Every dish is called for by the clerk at the hour ordered.
On his left are three voice conductors with bells communicating to all
parts of the club where culinary services are required. Turning to the
left is the large and principal French stove, fifteen feet three inches
long by three feet nine inches wide, beginning with a bain marie two
feet and a half square, warmed by steam, with two taps for hot and cold
water. This bain marie is for soups and sauces especially prepared for
the coffee-room. By the side is a column supporting the ceiling, round
it at a proper height are three rows of hooks for fryingpan covers,
spoons, forks, skimming ladles, &c. Along the stove at back is the
coping wall separating the two kitchens, on which are fixed two grated
iron shelves, upon which are placed a number of stewpans and moulds of
all sizes. Further on is situated the stoves where entrées, soups, &c.,
are prepared, being a grate for a charcoal fire in the centre, with one
of my new gas stoves upon each side, which afford the greatest comfort
ever introduced in any culinary arrangement; each stove is divided into
five compartments, (see Plate) each having a separate pipe and brass
cock, with a separate main pipe to each stove, which supplies sufficient
gas to burn the whole five compartments at once, or only one by not
turning the gas into any of the other compartments, or if all burning at
once the fire may be regulated to any height you may think proper by
means of the brass cocks, turning the gas either full or only partially
on. It possesses also the following advantages: you obtain the same heat
as from charcoal the moment it is lit, it is a fire that never requires
making up, is free from carbonic acid which is so pernicious, especially
in small kitchens, and creates neither dust or smell (except the gas
should neglectfully be not properly turned off), and by my last
improvement it is also now quite free from smoke. With the aid of my new
octagonal trivet[21] I can place nine stewpans over without the fear of
upsetting either, some only simmering and others boiling at the same
time, which is invaluable, as by the gentle simmering you are enabled to
extract all the fat from soups or sauces, assisting in the
clarification, and causing them to digest more freely. The gas stoves
also tend to greater economy, as they are not lit till the moment
wanted, then only the quantity required, and may be put out the moment
it is done with, I think it a great pity that they can only be fitted in
London and other large towns daily supplied with gas, but it is there it
is most required, as the kitchens are smaller than in country houses, no
heat whatever being created in the smallest kitchens by the use of gas
stoves.[22]
[Illustration: BAIN MARIE, SINK, HOT PLATE, AND RACK FOR SAUTE-PANS.]
Further on at the end of the stove and parallel with the bain marie
there is another, two feet six inches square with two taps for hot and
cold water, used for keeping sauces hot for a private dinner in the
house dinner room, being three different bain maries, one for fish
sauce, one for the coffee-room, and one for the private dinner. Next is
a slate sink two feet and a half long, one foot two inches wide, and
eleven inches deep, with two taps for hot and cold water used for
washing various kitchen utensils used at the charcoal stoves. Above the
sink, hot plate, and bain marie, is an iron rack nine feet long with
hooks to hang huge sauté-pans. Near it is a hot plate two feet six
inches square heated by steam, upon which are placed dishes prepared for
dinners and from thence removed to the house dinner-lift, which is drawn
up either by steam or hand machine. The sink trap bell is one of the
most simple and useful fixtures of a kitchen; I invented it after
twelve months of the greatest inconvenience arising from a complete
stoppage in many of the drains of the club, which not only created an
offensive effluvia but frequently caused the opening of the greater
portion of the basement of the house. Since the introduction of the trap
bell to the sinks throughout the kitchen department such offence has
entirely ceased. The bell is made of copper and is six inches long and
ten in circumference. It screws to the sink and has several holes
pierced through for the passage of the water only and the prevention of
anything else passing down. It will be seen that the plug is attached to
a rod, which is in its turn joined to a chain. By pulling the latter the
plug is removed and if it be necessary to keep it open a link of the
chain may be attached to a nail fastened in the wall. The expense is a
mere trifle, the comfort none can fully appreciate. I am happy to add
that my example has since been followed with similar success throughout
the club, and that it has been likewise copied in many noblemen’s and
club-house kitchens.
[Illustration: SINK TRAP BELL.]
* * * * *
I now beg leave to remark to my readers that if I have been a little
tedious or profuse in giving the exact measurement of the different
parts and every object of this kitchen by feet and inches, it was with
the view to be useful to those who have honoured me with their
subscription, and the public; I dare hope that my humble efforts will
have the effect of producing hereafter a reform in the art of building
and fitting up a kitchen which, without being of an immoderate size,
contains all that can be wished for as regards saving of time, comfort,
regularity, cleanliness, and economy. I am happy to have this
opportunity of acknowledging that without the great liberality of the
honorable members of the Reform Club, and the kindness of that
celebrated architect Mr. Barry, I could never have succeeded in
accomplishing the improvements so essential in a well regulated
establishment; I shall, therefore, remain always gratified for the
encouragement they never ceased to give me in confiding to my direction
this new system of building and fitting up a kitchen which is now in
active operation, not only for the economy of the Reform Club but to
serve as a guide to the amateurs of a good kitchen as well as of good
living.