Break three pounds of fine white sugar, the hardest and closest grained
is the best, put it into a sugar-pan with three pints of clear spring
water, set over a sharp fire, and when beginning to boil place it at the
corner to simmer, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, skim well
and reduce to two thirds, it is then ready to use for jellies, &c.
If not able to obtain the best quality sugar it would be necessary to
use white of eggs as an assistance in the clarification, by putting the
white of one egg in a basin and whipping it well with a pint of cold
water, add half of it to the sugar, whipping it well in, let simmer,
adding the remainder by degrees whilst simmering, and passing it through
a fine cloth into a basin. The boiling of sugar is divided into seven
different degrees, which may be ascertained by the following
directions:--
The first degree is known by dipping a copper skimmer into it whilst
boiling, turning it over two or three times, if the sugar falls from it
in sheets it has attained the first degree.
The second is known by boiling your sugar rather longer, dipping your
finger and thumb into cold water, then your finger into the boiling
sugar, putting your finger and thumb together, and again opening them,
it will form a kind of thread; if it is too weak boil a little longer,
this is the most useful degree for fruit or water ices.
The third degree is attained by boiling it a little longer, and trying
it in the same manner, upon the thread breaking, should it form a kind
of pearl, it has attained the above degree; the sugar in boiling would
also be covered with a quantity of small bubbles resembling pearls.
The next degree is attained by boiling it still longer, dip a skimmer
into it, turn, take out and blow it hard, when the sugar will form
little bladders and float in the air, this degree is called the soufflé.
For the next degree boil still longer, trying it in the same manner, but
blowing harder, the bladders will be larger and adhere together, forming
feathers; this degree is called la plume, or the feather.
The next is called au petite casée, and is obtained by boiling the sugar
a little longer, to know this degree have a pint of cold water in a
basin into which you have put a piece of ice, dip you finger into it,
then into the boiling sugar, and then into the water again, take the
piece which adheres to the finger and bite, if rather crisp, but
sticking to the teeth, it has attained that degree.
The seventh and last requires great attention, to attain it boil rather
longer, dip your finger in as before, if it cracks and does not at all
adhere to the teeth in biting it is done, take from the fire and it is
ready for use for making any kind of sugar ornament.
When intended for such purposes, however, add a little tartaric acid
when it arrives to the degree la plume, and pour it into a smaller
sugar-pan, allowing it to reach the rims, it will be then unable to burn
round the sides as if in a larger pan; if such a thing should, however,
happen in a larger pan, wipe the interior of the pan round with a sponge
previously dipped in cold water, or it would discolour the sugar.
Ornaments of spun sugar I have a very great dislike to for a dinner, but
if required, the sugar must be boiled to the last degree. Should the
sugar grain it may be brought back by adding more water, and when
dissolved, boiling over again; in spinning sugar you must keep the bulk
of it in a warm temperature, having a little in a smaller pan for use,
which keep in a melted state by placing it in a bain marie of hot water
or in a hot closet.