Make some paste as directed for pâte à choux (No. 1194), not, however,
using so much butter, and adding a little more flour, drying it well in
the stewpan, and adding sufficient eggs to make it of the same
consistency as there directed, flavouring with sugar upon which you have
rubbed the rind of a lemon, form about a hundred and fifty small balls
the size of marbles, upon two baking-sheets, egg them over and bake very
dry in a moderate oven of a light gold colour, then have some sugar
boiled to the seventh degree (No. 1379), oil a large Savoy-cake mould
lightly, place one of the petits choux upon a trussing-needle, dip it in
the sugar, fix it at the bottom in the centre of your mould, then dip
in the remainder one after the other, placing them round the interior of
the mould, one adhering to the other until the mould is filled up, (to
facilitate the building of them have your sugar in two different
sugar-pans, being careful that it does not grain, for if the sugar is
not quite clear and crisp it would stick to the mould, and your croque
en bouche tumble to pieces,) when quite cold try gently with both hands
to move it, just enough to detach it, turn it out carefully upon a
napkin, and serve with whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar under
it. The above when well made makes a pretty remove, but scarcely fit to
eat, it being a mass of sugar without any relief to the palate. Although
not a great admirer of nougat, the almonds certainly form a relief; a
croque en bouche of oranges or any other fruit is a little more
commendable, but is very difficult to succeed with, and do not in
reality repay in quality the trouble they give; such dishes, in my
opinion, being fit only for children who are fond of sugar-plums.