Jellies may be considered as the first, most wholesome, and refreshing
dishes of the second course, especially when made from calves’ feet,
which meritorious discovery belongs especially to the English kitchen,
where I believe they have been used for years; the inventor certainly
deserves a place in the archives of cookery. For the making of jellies
in France nothing but isinglass is used, which is so adulterated in its
preparation that it requires a person to be a good judge to select it,
whilst calves’ feet may be selected by any one, only requiring to be
well scalded and fresh. But here I must observe that the discovery has
never been advantageously developed to the public at large, for the
introduction of cloves, mace, cinnamon, and other spices, give it a very
common flavour, which does not at all harmonize with the delicacy of the
jelly; a real gourmet would not only send it from his table, but
discharge the maker with the impression that a cook without taste was no
cook at all; the only flavour required in jelly being some light
liqueur, wine, or the freshness of some delicious fruits. Orange jelly,
and jelly from the juice of any other fruits, may likewise be made with
the calf’s foot jelly, by omitting the greater part of juice of lemon
and using it instead, but here isinglass has an advantage, it will keep
for any time and may be used in the country where, perhaps, at the time
required calves’ feet cannot be obtained.
Take four calf’s feet, cut them up and put them into a stewpan, with six
quarts of water, place upon the fire; when boiling remove to the corner,
where let boil slowly five hours, to reduce to about two quarts, keeping
well skimmed, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, in which let
remain in a cold place till set quite firm, take off as much of the oil
from the top as possible with a spoon, and wash off the remainder with a
little hot water as quickly as possible, wipe dry with a cloth, and put
it into a stewpan, with a pound of lump sugar broken in small pieces,
the juice of ten lemons, the rind of four (free from pith), the whites
of eight eggs, with the shells, half a pint of water, and half a pint of
sherry, place the stewpan over the fire and keep whisking its contents
until boiling, then pass it through your jelly bag, pouring that which
first runs through back again, until it runs quite clear; it is then
ready for use as directed in the following receipts.
To be quite certain of the strength of your jelly take a little from the
stewpan previous to its boiling, which put into the bottom of a small
mould and place upon the ice if too strong add a little more water, but
if by mistake too weak reduce it in clarifying.
I have invented some few new jelly moulds, the designs of which are
shown in the accompanying plates, also some new fruit atelettes (which
will be found at the end of this work), one of which, placed at the top
of a jelly when turned out, is a very handsome addition.