Are trussed as a fowl to roast, and served plain roasted, with a little
gravy in the dish, or roasted with a vine-leaf upon the breast, over
which you have tied a square piece of bacon, they will take a quarter of
an hour to roast, but serve them with the bacon and leaf over; my new
way of cooking them is to cut up a head or two of celery into very thin
layers, lay some on the breast of each, and tie pieces of fat bacon
over, roast and serve with a little gravy as usual; this method has been
much approved of.