Though very little in use, the flavour of this fish is very delicious in
many sauces; many people are afraid to eat them, but with care there is
not the slightest danger if prepared in the following manner: wash them
well in several waters, and be particular in taking off all the threads
that hang to the joints of the shell, put them in a stewpan with two
onions (sliced), four cloves, two bay-leaves, and a handful of parsley;
set them on a brisk fire and cover them over, toss them over now and
then, and when they open of themselves they are done; turn them out of
the stewpan, lift off the top shells and take out the fish, beard them
and be particular that no small crabs remain in them (as they are
supposed to be the unwholesome part), put them in a basin, strain their
own liquor over them, and put them by for use. In July and August these
fish may be omitted.