Put ten smelts upon a silver skewer, dry them in flour, then oil your
gridiron and lay the fish upon it, broil them ten minutes over a clear
fire, dress them on a dish without a napkin, and pour some butter
clarified, with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, over them. In
France these fishes are served for second course in the following way:
have four small silver skewers, (atelettes,) and run them through the
eyes of the fish, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in very hot lard
five minutes; serve them on a napkin without any sauce; they take the
place of a roast.