Black cocks and gray hens about the same time as grouse, but they are
more uncertain.
Ptarmigans are sent from Norway about the middle of January, and
continue till March, but that depends upon the weather.
Though the shooting season for partridges is the first of September, and
lasts till the end of January, I never cook one before the 3d, except
being desired to do so, but I often keep some for three weeks after the
shooting season is over.
The same with pheasants, which begins from the 1st of October till the
end of January. By hanging them by the necks and putting a piece of
garlic in the beak and a little cayenne, I one cold winter kept one six
weeks after the shooting time had expired, which I afterwards presented
to a party of real gourmets, who said it was the best they had partaken
of during the season.
I always use wild ducks, widgeons, teal, pintails, larks, golden
plovers, snipes, woodcocks from the commencement of November till the
end of March, after which the flesh becomes rank and unfit for table.
Young pea-fowls are very good, and make a noble roast, see p. 401, and
are in season from January till June, but they are very uncertain.
Plovers’ eggs, my favorite, an unparalleled delicacy, come about the
middle of March, and are not considered good after the latter end of
May; but when I can get them fresh in June, I do not discontinue their
use, because they are, in my estimation, worthy of the patronage of the
greatest gourmet. I have paid for them, at the beginning of the season,
three shillings and sixpence each; they are the black plover or peweet’s
eggs.