Having made a trial with Mr. Grove of Charing Cross of cutting a buck to
produce a saddleback of venison, as I have done of mutton (page 644), we
succeeded remarkably well, and obtained a most splendid joint that ever
could be placed before an epicure; but if cannot be generally adopted,
except in the country, where gentlemen keep their own park of deer, as
we found it interfered with both legs, which look like legs of mutton,
and deprived them of the best part of the fat, which cannot be dispensed
with: in other respects they are excellent for pies.
I have also introduced a _saucière_, made like a coffee-pot, heated by a
spirit-lamp underneath, filled with good veal or beef gravy, to be taken
round to each guest; the great heat of the gravy poured over the slices
of venison, mixed with the gravy already helped from the haunch, makes a
fine thick mixture, by which this delightful and noble joint is really
enjoyed; the currant jelly always served ought not to be too sweet or
too firm.
French beans, usually served with venison, ought to be very young and
green, well dried, and very hot when sent to table; in case they could
not be obtained, send up cauliflower or young brocoli with it; however I
must here observe, that these vegetables are very unpalatable, as
nothing disagrees more with currant jelly than French beans and brocoli.
I have substituted tomatas _farci_, as described No. 1099, when in
season, and served on a silver dish: they were much approved of. Plain
broiled tomatas must be cut across, with the juice extracted without
breaking; then put on the gridiron, with salt and pepper, on a very
sharp fire, turn them, when done dish up, add a little butter over each,
and send very hot.