The Queen had for a long while given herself up to more than ordinary

Devotion, and to a rigid Life not very agreeable to her natural Temper.

But the Princess thought ’twas the best Course she could take, to stop the

Mouths of those who had been so audacious as to give out that before her

Marriage she was not always the Fondest of Retirement. The recluse and

self-denying Life she led after Marriage, made her subject to Vapors,

which ended in Frenzy, the Fits whereof were terrible. The King was not

acquainted with her unhappy Disorder for a long time, till at last the

Queen being one day in a more outragious Fit than ordinary, was so strong

as to get loose from the Ladies that had the Care of her Person, and being

but half dress’d, with her Hair dishevel’d, she went thro’ a private

Gallery to the King’s Apartment. As she enter’d it she broke a Glass-Door,

by which she cut both her Hands and Arms; and in this bloody pickle rush’d

in upon the King like a Fury, and abus’d him with such Reproaches as would

never have enter’d into the head of the poor Princess, if she had been

well. The King, who was at the same time somewhat indispos’d, was taking a

Nap in an easy Chair; but he started out of his Sleep, and imagin’d

himself in the hands of a Ghost, every thing contributing to confirm him

in that Notion. For the Queen having her Hair flying about her Temples,

and no Clothes on but an Under-Petticoat, and a quilted Waistcoat of

_Marseilles_ Linnen, and her Arms and Face being moreover of a Gore-Blood,

the King fancy’d her to be the _White Woman_[42], and did so much believe

that this Apparition was a certain Presage of his approaching Dissolution,

that it threw him the same Instant into a Fever, which oblig’d him to

take to his Bed, and he never recover’d it. This Prince lay ill for near

six Weeks, during which he had the Consolation to see how dear he was to

his Subjects; for one day as he thought himself a little better, so that

the Physicians began to have hopes of his Recovery, he caus’d himself to

be carry’d towards a Window, from whence he saw the whole Square full of

People, who were offering up Vows to Heaven for his Life. This was so

moving a Scene to him, that the generous Prince could not refuse a Tribute

of Tears for the Tenderness of his People. But their Prayers were not

heard; and his Majesty died at _Berlin_ with a Constancy and Courage

worthy of him, after having given excellent Instructions to his Son the

Prince Royal.

This young Prince was heartily griev’d for the Death of the King his

Father, and as soon as he had receiv’d the first Homages of the Margraves

who were the late King’s Brothers, and of the whole Court, he shut himself

up in his Apartment where he abandon’d himself to that Lamentation which

he had reason to make for the Loss he had sustain’d. The Person that

notify’d his Death to the Courtiers who crouded the Apartments, was M. _de

Printz_, the Grand Marshal. They say, that when this Nobleman made his

appearance to proclaim the melancholy News, it so seiz’d him that he could

only say, _The King, the King, the King!_ his redoubled Sighs discovering

the rest that his Tongue had not power to declare.

The King’s Funeral Obsequies were very magnificent. In the Streets, from

the Palace to the place of Interment, several Regiments of Soldiers were

drawn up in a Line on each side. The new King accompany’d the Convoy, and

when the Corpse was deposited in the Royal Vault he went out of the

Church, and mounting on horseback put himself at the Head of the Troops

which made three Discharges of small Arms, and at the same time the Cannon

were fir’d from the Ramparts. Thus, Madame, were the last Devoirs paid to

_Frederic_ our First King.

As to the Queen, the Physicians were of Opinion that her Native Air would

be of service to her, and therefore she was carry’d to her Mother’s Seat

at _Grabau_ in _Mecklemburg_, where she still remains, but without any

Hopes as yet of her Recovery.

After the Death of _Frederic_ I. the King his Son dismiss’d the whole

Court, the three Companies of Life-Guards were broke, and the Guard of the

hundred _Swiss_ sent home to their own Country: In short, every thing

assum’d a new Face. I saw, and was really mortify’d to see, that there was

nothing more for me to hope for in my own Country. Nevertheless, tho’ I

thought I should have broke my Heart the first Moment that I receiv’d the

melancholy News, my Sorrow was of no long duration. I had not, indeed, a

very splendid Fortune to be my Comfort, but I was so young that I presum’d

to think I should never come to want. Besides, my Birth was some Relief to

my Mind; and to tell you the plain truth of the matter, as Things stood

with me at that time, I was quite in love with _Paris_, which was reason

good enough why I should not devote myself long to Melancholy.

Happening to be at the Fair of _St. Germain_, I there contracted Love for

another Mistress. I had no reason to be asham’d of the choice I then made,

because I might have hop’d to have been possess’d of every thing that was

capable of fixing a Man of Gallantry. I abandon’d my self intirely to this

new Amour, and as I was naturally fond of Expence, I laid out such a Sum

that all my Friends were startled at it. My Equipages, Clothes, Liveries,

_&c._ were all of the utmost Magnificence, and the frequent Presents that

I made were very rich. But I was soon reduc’d to a Necessity of making

very serious Reflections upon my past Conduct; tho’ I had no body to blame

but myself; for as to Mademoiselle _de S----_ (which was the Name of the

Angel I ador’d) she would certainly have been well enough pleas’d with a

Lover less profuse, so that with a little Oeconomy I might have made a gay

Figure at _Paris_: But my new Passion would not suffer me to think so

close of my Finances, which were now so much disorder’d that I saw no

Remedy, except to return to my own Country: But I was so uneasy to think

of going away, that I was very loth to fix on a day for my Departure. Mean

time my dear Mistress and her Mother both press’d me with Tears in

abundance to undertake a Journey so necessary; the one wishing it for my

own sake, and the other for the sake of her Daughter; for the good Mother

was as eager after Money, as the Daughter was disinterested. At length the

melancholy Day being come, I set out from _Paris_ without bidding Farewel

to any one Friend whatsoever except _Madame_, and the Duke of _Orleans_,

because I hop’d to be back again speedily. I left all my Servants behind,

except only one Domestic who was privy to all my Affairs.

The Day that I set out I arriv’d about five o’clock in the Evening at

_Roye_ in _Picardy_, where I was told I could not proceed farther for

want of Post-Horses, the Duke of _Ossuna_ who was gone Ambassador of

_Spain_ to the Treaty at _Utrecht_, having taken them all up. I resolv’d

therefore to go on with those that brought me to _Roye_. I halted at very

sad Quarters, at a place betwixt _Roye_ and _Peronne_. The first thing I

did was to go to Bed, and really need enough I had of Rest; for my Head

was so confus’d with a thousand different Thoughts, that I felt my Brains

work almost as if I had been light-headed. But when I was in Bed ’twas

much worse with me, I still indulg’d Melancholy. One while I wanted to go

back again to _Paris_, whither my Love call’d me strongly. On the other

hand, I was sensible of the sad Necessity of pursuing my Journey. In

short, Swarms of different Inclinations succeeded each other; but at last,

after a long debate with my self, I resolv’d to return to _Paris_. The

time when I made this noble Resolution was about two o’clock in the

Morning. I got up that Moment, and call’d for my Valet. As he lay in

another part of the House which was separate from my Apartment, I thought

’twas better to go my self and awake him, than to lose my time in calling

for him. I went out of my Chamber accordingly, but as ill luck would have

it, I had not observ’d, or rather the confusion I was in made me forget

that my Chamber-Door open’d into a Gallery that run round the House. This

Gallery was so lately built that they had not time to put Rails to it, so

that before I had gone two steps I had the finest tumble that ever I made

in my Life. I fell from the Gallery into the Yard, and by good luck upon a

heap of Dung, otherwise I might have been wounded, if not kill’d; so that

all the harm I had was the surprize to find my self sinking in a Matrass

as offensive as ’tis possible to conceive. My greatest perplexity was then

to contrive how to get out of it, and to find the way back to my Chamber:

But the Night was so dark, and I was so little acquainted with the House

where I lodg’d, that I despair’d of getting out without Help; I began then

to call out lustily for my Valet. But the Rascal never heard me, and

indeed I was inform’d soon after, that he had been drunk, so that his

Liquor had plung’d him into a profound Sleep. Seeing that I had to do with

one that was as deaf as a Post, I thought fit to call out aloud for

_Mary_, _Catherine_, _Joan_, and other Names, hoping that there was some

Servant-Maid in the House, whom one at least of these Names would fit: Nor

was I deceiv’d, for one of the Maids came to my Assistance, but the Wench

taking me for a Spirit ran away in an instant, with a great Cry of

_Jesu-Maria_. I was then terribly mortify’d: At this rate I plainly saw I

should be forc’d to spend the rest of the Night in the Dunghill, and to

wait with patience till the whole Family was risen. What made me the more

apprehensive of the Consequences of this Disaster was, that tho’ we were

got into the Summer Season, yet the Nights were cold, and I had nothing

over my Shirt but a Taffeta Night-Gown. I began again therefore to call

and baul so loud, that at length some of the Family ran out to see what

was the matter; but like the Servant-Maid they all took me for a Ghost

come to haunt the House, and were afraid to come near me. At length, all

this Noise awak’d my Valet, who ran out in his Shirt. He imagin’d at first

that there had been a Design to murder me, but when I bid him put the

Horses in my Chaise, he thought I was crazy; and indeed, I was pretty far

gone that way. I repeated my Order to get my Chaise ready, that I might be

gone that instant. My Valet, who had scarce recover’d from the Surprize he

was in at my giving such an Order, said, _Alas, Sir, be easy; ’tis but two

o’clock in the Morning yet, at five you shall be gone._ I told him, that

he was a Fool, and that go I would. But he, like other Skipkennels who are

apt to be fancy if their Masters treat them with any degree of

Familiarity, refus’d point-blank to obey me. He said that I had no

Consideration, that because I could not sleep my self I hinder’d others

from sleeping; that I roll’d along the Day in an easy Chaise, whereas he

rode generally upon very sorry Horses; that in short he wanted Rest, and

that he would not set out till he had two Hours more Sleep, and had a good

Breakfast. I was like to have been in a Passion, but saw ’twas to no

purpose, and therefore we split the Difference; he compounded with me not

to go to Bed again, and I gave him leave to take his Breakfast. When he

thought fit to make an end, I got into my Chaise, and order’d the

Postillion to strike into the Road for _Paris_. Then my Valet imagin’d

indeed that I was crack-brain’d; he said I was wrong, and that we must

turn into the Road to the _Netherlands_. I order’d him to hold his tongue,

and go on. The poor Boy being confirm’d more and more in his Notion that I

was Kite-headed, was wonderful uneasy, and at every Stage came with a

sorrowful Countenance to the side of my Chaise to know how I did, and if I

wanted any thing. At length I arriv’d at _Paris_, where all that knew of

my Departure were startled to see me return’d so soon. I feign’d my self

very much out of order, and that I came back again for fear of a Fit of

Sickness, in which case I chose to be at _Paris_ rather than any where

else. But no body would believe me, for they thought that some Love-Affair

at heart was the sole cause of my returning in such a hurry. I stay’d

three Days at _Paris_, but did not go once to _Versailles_ for fear of

_Madame_, who was a Princess that did not love such Frolics, and I for my

part did not love Reprimands, and therefore I thought it best to keep out

of her way. Mean time the very same reason that determined me the first

time to take a Journey to my own Country still subsisted, and at last I

quitted _Paris_ in good earnest, tho’ I was resolv’d to be absent as

little a while as possible.

I went the common Road to _Brussels_, and from thence through _Breda_ and

_Gorcum_, to _Utrecht_; having a desire to see in what state the Congress

was, which was then held at that place.

BREDA, which is a Place of Strength, situate on the River of _Mercke_, is

part of _Dutch Brabant_, and one of the most considerable Towns in the

_Netherlands_. This City and its Territory has the Title of a Barony, and

has had several Masters. The last Owners of it were the Princes of

_Nassau_, who acquired it in 1404, by _Eagelbert_ of _Nassau_’s Marriage

with _Joan_ the only Daughter of the Lord of _Leck_, who was Sovereign of

_Breda_. _Henry de Nassau_ founded the Castle in this Town, and the Tomb

of _René_ is still to be seen in the Collegiate Church of St. _Peter_,

which was founded about the Year 1303. This City suffer’d very much

towards the latter end of the sixteenth Century, during the Wars for

Religion. ’Twas at first seiz’d by the Confederates, who form’d the

Republic of the United Provinces. The Prince of _Parma_ took it from them

the 18th of _June_ 1581; but Prince _Maurice_ of _Orange_ made himself

Master of it in 1590, by means of a Boat laden with Turf, under which he

had caus’d about threescore Soldiers to be conceal’d, who made themselves

Masters of the Castle, and thereby gave the Prince an Opportunity to take

the Town by Capitulation. They tell a very remarkable Story of one of the

Soldiers that was hid in that Boat, _viz._ That having a Necessity of

coughing, he desir’d one of his Comrades to kill him outright, for fear

that his impertinent Cough should discover the Stratagem. This Soldier

richly deserv’d to have his Name transmitted to Posterity; for sure a

_Roman_ could not have said a more gallant Thing, and an Instance of

inferior Courage to this would perhaps have been rewarded with a Statue.

Some Years after the Reduction of _Breda_, the great _Spinola_ General of

the _Spanish_ Forces, besieg’d and took it after a Siege, or rather

Blockade of eleven Months. ’Twas a fourth time besieg’d by

_Frederic-Henry_ Prince of _Orange_, who took it after a Siege of four

Months, and then it came into the hands of the _Dutch_, who have remain’d

Masters of it ever since, and have considerably augmented its

Fortifications; and as the Place is situate in very Marshy Ground, they

have erected Sluices there, by means of which they can easily lay all the

neighbouring Country under Water. For the rest, this is not one of the

best built Cities in the _Netherlands_, and were it not for its Ramparts

would be a very inconsiderable Place. The King of _Prussia_, by virtue of

his Pretensions to the Succession of _William_ III. King of _England_,

adds to his Titles that of _Baron of Breda_.

Having pass’d through _Gorcum_, which I thought a Town of very little

consequence, I came to UTRECHT[43], which is one of the most noted Cities

in the _Netherlands_, and gives Name to one of the seven Provinces,

whereof it is the Capital. It was formerly a Bishop’s See, and the Bishops

were Sovereigns of the Province, and Princes of the Empire. The Dukes of

_Brabant_ and _Cleves_, the Counts of _Holland_ and _Guelderland_, and

other Sovereigns to the number of twenty-eight, were Feudataries to its

Bishop. The Emperor _Charlemain_, that great Founder of Bishoprics,

annex’d so Many Prerogatives to this with a View of engaging the Bishops

to act with Zeal for Conversion of the _Pagans_ who possess’d a Part of

the Neighbouring Countries. _Philip_ II. erected this Bishopric into an

Archbishopric in favor of _Schenck_ of _Tautenbourg_; but he did not enjoy

the new Dignity long, for at the same time that this Country revolted from

_Spain_, the Protestant Religion was introduc’d into it, and the

Archbishop was expell’d. _Henry_ of _Bavaria_ was the last Bishop who was

Sovereign of this Country, but his Subjects rebell’d against him and

turn’d him out. This Bishop implor’d the Protection of _Charles_ V. to

whom with the Consent of his Clergy and States he transferr’d the Temporal

Dominion of the Country in 1528, and from thence he was translated to the

Bishopric of _Worms_. The famous Union of the seven Provinces, to which

the Establishment of the Republic is owing, was concluded at _Utrecht_ the

13th of _January_, 1579.

The City of _Utrecht_ is famous also for the Birth of Pope _Adrian_ VI, in

1459. They say this Pontiff was of mean Extraction, and was only oblig’d

to his own Merit for his Advancement. The Emperor _Maximilian_ trusted him

with the Education of _Charles_ his Grandson. He was afterwards sent to

_Spain_ with the Title of Ambassador to King _Ferdinand_, who gave him the

Bishopric of _Tortosa_. Upon that Monarch’s Death he shar’d the Regency of

_Spain_ with the Cardinal _Ximenes_, and afterwards remained sole Viceroy

of that Kingdom. He was made a Cardinal the first of _July 1517_, by Pope

_Leo_ X. and chose Pope the ninth of _January 1522_.

While I am thus making Digressions in speaking of the City of _Utrecht_,

you will also permit me to tell you that this City gave birth to the

famous _Anna-Maria Schuurman_, that learned Lady who spoke _Latin_,

_Greek_, _Hebrew_, the _Syriac_, _Chaldee_, _Italian_, _Spanish_, and

_French_ Languages as fluently as the _Low Dutch_, which was her

Mother-Tongue. She also knew how to paint in Miniature, and to engrave

both with the Graving Tool and the Diamond upon Copper and Glass. Queen

_Christina_ of _Sweden_ did her the same Honor, as _Alexander_ formerly

did to _Diogenes_, for she went to pay her a Visit, and was surpriz’d at

the Beauty of her Performances. This most ingenious Artist of her Sex died

in 1678, at 71 Years of Age.

_Balderic_ of _Cleves_ the fifteenth Bishop of _Utrecht_, caus’d this City

to be encompass’d with Walls; and _Charles_ V. built its Castle, which has

at present nine Bastions, two Half-moons, and a Hornwork. They say that

the great Church dedicated to St. _Martin_, was built in the Year 630 by

King _Dagobert_; and after it was destroy’d, together with all the other

Buildings in the City by the _Normans_, _Adelbolde_ the 19th Bishop caus’d

it to be rebuilt and consecrated in 1024, in presence of the Emperor

_Henry_ II. and twelve Bishops. It was ruin’d a second time, but was

magnificently rebuilt. There’s a very fine Tower at the Entrance 388 Foot

high, from whence fifteen or sixteen Towns may be seen distinctly.

There’s a better Air at _Utrecht_ than in the other Towns of _Holland_,

the Ground it stands on being much higher, and by consequence not so

marshy. This Town, which is situate upon the old Channel of the _Rhine_,

is incompass’d with a fine fruitful Plain, and has charming Walks in the

Neighbourhood, which are not inferior to those at the _Hague_.

The _French_ were at one time Masters of this Place, but on the 13th of

_November_ 1673, it reverted to its lawful Sovereigns. When I arriv’d here

I heard that the Peace was just sign’d by the Plenipotentiaries of

_France_ and _Spain_ on the one part, and by the Ministers of _England_,

_Portugal_, _Prussia_, _Savoy_ and _Holland_, on the other part. The

principal Conditions were, That _Philip_ V. should remain in possession of

the Crown of _Spain_, on condition nevertheless that he should renounce

the Succession to the Crown of _France_, for himself and his Descendants:

That _England_ should have _Gibraltar_ in _Spain_, and _Port-Mahon_ in the

_Mediterranean_: That _Dunkirk_ should be demolish’d: _France_, by the

way, was very loth to consent to the ruin of a Place which had already

cost her several Millions, and requir’d a considerable Expence moreover to

demolish. The Elector of _Brandenburg_ was recogniz’d King of _Prussia_,

both by _France_ and _Spain_, and had even the Title of _Majesty_ given

him, which _France_ never us’d to allow to the Kings of _Denmark_ and

_Poland_. To the King of _Prussia_ was also yielded what he before

possess’d in _Spanish Guelderland_, as an Equivalent for the Principality

of _Orange_, which that Monarch yielded to _France_. The Duke of _Savoy_

was own’d King of _Sicily_, and he obtain’d some Places in the _Milanese_.

The King of _Portugal_ remain’d peaceable Possessor of the Conquests which

he had made during the War. The _Dutch_ got least of all by the Peace, and

perhaps they repented that they did not accept of the Terms offer’d them

at _Gertruydenberg_.

As soon as I arriv’d at _Utrecht_, I did not fail to make a Visit to the

Ambassadors of _Prussia_, who were the Count _de Denhoff_, the Count _de

Metternich_, and the Marshal _de Biberstein_. They receiv’d me with all

the Civility possible, and presented me to all the Foreign Ministers. I

found at this City the Countess Dowager of _Wartemberg_, who was lately

come hither. The Count her Husband, who died at _Francfort_, desir’d upon

his Death-bed that his Corpse might be carried to _Berlin_, which was

perform’d with a good deal of Pomp. They say, that the late King, who was

very fond of him, as I have already had the Honor to mention to you, wou’d

needs see his Funeral Convoy; and as it pass’d before the Windows of his

Castle he could not refrain shedding Tears. Perhaps he then repented that

he had disgrac’d that Minister on such slight Pretences; and perhaps too,

the melancholy Spectacle put him in mind of that unavoidable Coast, on

which both the Majesty of Kings, and the Magnificence of Courtiers, will

at last be run ashore.

The Countess of _Wartemberg_ was more undaunted. She was far from

indulging any mortifying Reflection; but on the contrary, was glad to

find her self in possession of a very great Estate; and gladder still to

think that she was uncontroulable. She left _Francfort_ where she had

resided ever since her Husband’s Disgrace; and thinking that too

melancholy a Place to spend her Life in, she made choice of the City of

_Utrecht_, as the most gay of any that she knew. She soon had an Intrigue

or two upon her hands; and when I arriv’d, I heard that the Chevalier _de

B----_ was her Bosom Friend. This Gentleman was newly set out for

_Versailles_, with a Commission to carry the News of the Peace. I was not

much concerned whether I made any Visit to the Countess; for I observ’d

that all of our Court who were then at _Utrecht_, were shy of her to such

a degree, that I did not care to be the only one that shew’d any Regard

for her. But tho’ I had resolv’d not to visit her, I happen’d to fall in

her Way. This Lady had brought a _French_ Gentlewoman with her, whom I

knew very well at _Berlin_; and as she had Wit at will, I had a mind to

renew my Acquaintance with her, the rather because I had a Curiosity to

know a little of the Countess’s History. The first time I paid her a Visit

she made me an Offer to carry me to see the Countess of _Wartemberg_;

which I refus’d in such a manner that she did not insist upon my going.

But she thought fit to tell the Countess that I was lately come to

_Utrecht_; that I had paid her a Visit; and that she thought I perfectly

resembled the Chevalier _de B----_. There needed no other Motive to set

the Countess agog to see me; and she desir’d her Gentlewoman to bring me

to her. But notwithstanding all her Persuasion, I peremptorily refus’d it.

At last, as I was making a Visit one day to the Gentlewoman, who should

bounce into the Room where I was, but the Countess _de Wartemberg_. She

said, that tho’ I scorn’d her so much as not to make her a Visit, she had

resolv’d to come and see me. I was going to reply, but the Countess,

without giving me time to speak, told me, that she thought me alter’d much

for the better; that no two drops of Water were more like than I, and the

Chevalier _de B----_; and that in short we perfectly resembled each other

even in the Tone of our Voice: But by Madam _de Wartemberg_’s leave, there

never were two People more unlike. The Knight Commander was a handsome

well-set Man, which you know, Madame, is a Character I never had the

Vanity to affect; and I thought every part of the Countess’s Compliment so

extraordinary, that in truth, a Scholar just come from the College could

not have been more dash’d than I was. I made an Answer, ’tis true, but to

tell you frankly, I knew not what I said. I gave her my Hand, and led her

to her own Apartment, where she still descanted upon the mighty

Resemblance betwixt the Chevalier and me. In fine, I think I may venture

to say, without giving my self an Air as if I was the Darling of the Fair

Sex, and without passing in your Opinion for a Coxcomb, that ’twas my own

fault I was not taken, in Body and Soul, for the Chevalier; but I was so

fortunate as to be disintangled by a Valet de Chambre, who came to

acquaint her of the Arrival of M. _Menager_ the third Plenipotentiary of

_France_ at the Congress, to whom I had Obligations for bringing me out of

this Scrape. This kind of Visit made me take proper Measures to prevent

any more such, for the little time I had to stay in this City.

From _Utrecht_ I went to _Wesel_, and from thence thro’ _Westphalia_ to

the Duchy of MAGDEBOURG. The City of this Name was formerly an

Archbishopric, erected by the Emperor _Otho_ the Great in favor of the

_Vandals_ newly converted, but by the Peace of _Westphalia_ the whole

Country was seculariz’d with the Title of a Duchy, in favor of the

_Brandenburg_ Family, in Exchange for that part of _Pomerania_ which was

yielded to the _Swedes_. There are few Towns in _Germany_ that have

suffer’d so many Revolutions as _Magdebourg_. This City was put under the

Ban of the Empire in 1553, by _Charles_ V. for refusing Submission to his

Orders, for it was then in open Rebellion, so that the Elector _Maurice_

of _Saxony_ was sent to reduce it. The Siege lasted a whole Year, the

Elector not being very much in haste to push on the Conquest. As this War

was undertaken purely for the Destruction of the Protestant Religion,

which this City had embraced; the Elector, who was himself a Protestant,

thought by spinning out the Siege to regain the good Opinion of those of

his Religion, who were uneasy to see him support the Interests of the

Emperor and the Catholics. The Elector however made them easy, by

promising the Protestants of _Magdebourg_, that he would join them in the

War against the Emperor, immediately after the Surrender of the Place.

Matters were transacted on both sides with very great sincerity. The Place

surrender’d, and the Elector entered it not as a victorious Prince, but

rather as an Ally who brought Relief to it. He made use of the Garison to

reinforce his Army, and then declar’d War against the Emperor, on pretence

that the Religion and Liberty of _Germany_ were in danger.

A Change of this nature was so extraordinary, that the Emperor could not

expect it: For this Prince had himself promoted the Elector of _Saxony_ to

the Dignity he possess’d, after having depriv’d the unfortunate _Frederic_

of his Dominions; and for so considerable a Present he might very well

hope the Elector would have made him grateful Returns. The Emperor

therefore was so far from thinking himself oblig’d to be on his Guard for

fear of Surprise, that he imagin’d himself in a State of perfect Security,

when the Elector of _Saxony_ had like to have surpriz’d him at _Inspruck_

the Capital of _Tirol_. The Emperor knew nothing of the Plot, till he was

on the point of being made Prisoner; and ’twas with much ado that he

escap’d, for he was at that time ill of the Gout, and oblig’d to leave

both his Equipage and Domestics behind him. He would upon this occasion

have given the Prince _John-Frederic_ his Liberty, but this Prince was

loth to abandon him in this Misfortune, and accompany’d him into

_Carinthia_, twenty-eight Leagues from _Inspruck_, where the Emperor made

his Retreat.

The City of _Magdebourg_ was a very great Sufferer in the War, which is

commonly call’d, _The War of thirty Years_, because during that Term

_Germany_ was ravag’d on all sides. _Tilly_ the Emperor’s General besieg’d

it in 1631, when ’twas taken by Storm, and all the Inhabitants put to the

Sword. A Fire also had a part in its Destruction, and committed such

Ravage that _Magdebourg_, which was one of the finest Cities in _Germany_,

was intirely reduc’d to Ashes. The Burghers indeed had no body but

themselves to blame for their Misfortune, for General _Tilly_ would not

have treated them so severely if they had not refus’d an advantageous

Capitulation, of which he made them an Offer some days before the Storm.

But since this Town has been in the hands of the _Brandenburg_ Family, the

Electors have taken care to fortify it so well, that it would now be a

hard matter to take it. The late King caus’d a Citadel to be built here,

which is separated from the City by the _Elbe_. The present King has added

considerable Works to it, which are remarkably substantial and

magnificent. His Majesty has also caus’d a very fine Arsenal to be built

in the Great Square, which tho’ not very large, is stor’d with a

considerable number of Cannon and other Arms. On the Right hand of this

Square is the Great Church, formerly the Cathedral, a _Gothic_ Building,

where meets the Chapter which is still subsisting, tho’ Protestant; and

according to ancient Custom, none are admitted into it but Men of Quality.

The Situation of _Magdebourg_ is very fine, having an Outlet on all sides

to spacious Plains, that are very fruitful in Corn. The _Elbe_, which, as

I have said, separates the Citadel from the Town, renders its Commerce

also very easy with _Hamburg_, _Saxony_ and _Bohemia_, for which reason

several Merchants are settled here who have noble Houses. And since the

King has transferr’d the Regency of the Country hither from _Hall_, the

Town grows every day finer, so that it may now be reckon’d one of the most

beautiful Towns in the two Circles of _Saxony_.

From _Magdebourg_ in my Way to _Berlin_ I pass’d thro’ BRANDENBURG, which

is a City on the River _Havel_, that was built by M. _Branden_, a Prince

of _Franconia_. ’Twas heretofore a Bishopric, but now the whole Country is

seculariz’d, and makes a part of the _Marquisate_ of _Brandenburg_. Here

is a considerable Trade, and the King keeps a Garison in it, consisting of

a Battalion of the tall Grenadiers. You have so often seen the Regiment of

which this Battalion is a part, that ’tis needless to commend it to you

farther than to observe, that ’tis perhaps the finest Regiment in

_Europe_.

I did not stay at _Brandenburg_, because I would be the sooner at BERLIN.

On the day that I arrived there I was so tir’d with having walk’d all Day

and Night, that I kept my Bed till the Evening, when I had the Honor to

wait on the Queen, the King having been gone a few days before to

_Potzdam_, Her Majesty kept her Chamber, and had not been out of it since

her last Lying-in, when she was deliver’d of the Princess

_Charlotta-Albertina_, who died the Year following on the 10th of _June_.

I was so coldly receiv’d by her Majesty, that I had no reason to hope for

favor at Court, or at least with her Majesty. But the Margravines receiv’d

me with all the Civility possible. The Margravine-Dowager especially

assur’d me that she would continue that Protection with which she had

always honor’d me.

As to the City of _Berlin_, it had not yet dry’d up its Tears for the Loss

it had lately sustain’d, by the Death of _Frederic_. ’Tis true the King

his Son gave great hopes, but the thorough Change he had made in his

Court, caus’d the late King to be lamented. The new Monarch thought of

nothing but keeping up a numerous Army, and that he might do this without

laying a Burden upon his Subjects, he dismiss’d all his Court, and the

intire Houshold of the King his Father, so that there was nobody at Court

but the Ministers. Most of the Persons of Quality who lived heretofore at

_Berlin_, were retir’d either to their Estates or their Governments, which

made the City a most melancholy Place to stay in, and all these

Alterations convinc’d me that there was nothing for me to expect in this

Country. I therefore resolv’d to settle all my Domestic Affairs with the

utmost speed, designing to return forthwith to _Paris_. Before I went

thither, I made a Trip to _Zell_, in order to examine the Accompts of a

Person I had deputed as my Attorney to receive the Deeds of my Mother’s

Estate. But to my sorrow, my Mother had by her Will devis’d the greatest

part of her Estate to the Children she had by her former Husband, so that

what I could lay claim to was far short of what I promis’d my self.

From _Zell_ I went to HAMBOURG[44], purely to see that City. I had

travel’d thither once before, but was then so young that I was not in a

Capacity to take notice of any thing in this City worthy of Remark.

_Hambourg_, which is one of the best Towns in _Germany_, is a part of

Lower _Saxony_, being situate upon the _Elbe_ a few Leagues from the Mouth

of that River, which is a great Conveniency to its Trade. Before it was

erected into a Republic ’twas a part of _Holstein_, on the Territory of

which it was built; and therefore it had frequent Quarrels with the Dukes

of _Holstein_, and the Kings of _Denmark_, who are the Sovereigns of

_Holstein_. The latter, as well as the _Swedes_, have attempted several

times to make themselves Masters of _Hambourg_, but have been repuls’d as

often as they came before it: For this City is not easy to be reduc’d,

because it has noble Ramparts and very strong Out-works, and it also takes

care to be well provided with Artillery, and a good Garrison. Moreover,

’tis always sure of the Protection of the Families of _Brandenburg_ and

_Brunswic_, it being so advantagiously situated, that ’tis the Interest of

both, that no Power whatsoever should take it.

_Hambourg_ is also very considerable on account of the Wealth of its

Inhabitants, who are almost all Merchants, and much of the Temper of the

_Dutch_ Merchants, very greedy of Gain and thrifty. Their greatest Delight

is so have Gardens at the City-Gates, pretty much in the Taste of those of

_Holland_. The Wives of the great Merchants are as much confin’d at

_Hambourg_, as the Women of Quality are at _Venice_, but I observ’d they

were only pent up from Foreigners. A Man may pass his time very well in

this City, where there are several Persons of Quality to see, who make

their Visitors perfectly welcome. The Walks in and about this City are

charming, and especially that on the Ramparts is a noble one, there being

a double Row of Trees which forms an agreeable Covert, and from whence

there’s a Prospect finely diversify’d by noble Houses, Gardens, Woods,

Meadows, _&c._ in the midst of which one sees the Rivers _Elbe_ and

_Alster_, which both together yield a charming View. The River of _Alster_

comes into the Town and forms a Basin very like a great Pond, which has a

fine Kay on the sides of it planted with several Rows of Lime-Trees,

between which there’s a very fine Walk.

Near _Hambourg_ lies the Town of ALTENA[45]. The King of _Denmark_ gave it

this Name to banter the Deputies of _Hambourg_ who made Remonstrances to

him against his building this Town too near to theirs, and in their

Discourse to the King about the Town said several times, _Sie ist al te

na_, which in the Language of the Country signifies, _it is too near_. The

King taking particular Notice of the Monosyllables _al te na_, said to the

Deputies that he could not excuse himself from carrying on the Town which

he was building, and that all he could do to oblige them was to order it

to be call’d by the Name of _Altena_, which they themselves had given it.

And indeed, a more significant Name could not have been put upon this

Town, for ’tis situate just at the Gates of _Hambourg_, and is a part of

_Danish Holstein_. It was formerly a priviledg’d Place for Bankrupts, and

for all that had committed any Crime in _Hambourg_. But the present King

of _Denmark_, rather than this Town should continue any longer in the

Enjoyment of a Privilege which fill’d it with Knaves and Vagabonds,

delivers up Malefactors to the Magistrates of _Hambourg_ whenever they

reclaim them.

_Altena_ is remarkable for the Multiplicity of Religions which are there

publickly exercis’d. I believe, that excepting _Amsterdam_, there is not a

Town in _Europe_ where there are so many Sects; but few of ’em are allow’d

a Church. The Neighbourhood of this Town to _Hambourg_, and its Situation

moreover upon the _Elbe_, does great Prejudice to that City. ’Tis now

several years since _Altena_ was burnt by the _Swedes_, under the Command

of the Count _de Steinbock_; when they scarce allow’d Time to the

Inhabitants to make their Escape; so that they had the Grief to be

Eye-Witnesses of the burning of their Houses and Goods, and several Old

Men, and a number of Infants perish’d in the Flames. I found _Altena_ in

that sorrowful State when I first went thither; but upon a Review of it

since, I see that ’tis rebuilt in such a manner, that ’tis now a finer and

more flourishing Town than ever. After four or five days Stay at

_Hambourg_ I set out, and never did any body go off at a more proper Time;

for in a few days after it, the Plague discover’d it self in the City;

upon which it was shut up, and its Communication forbid with any other

Place.

I return’d thro’ _Zell_, where I made no manner of stay, to

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE[46], an Imperial City, on the Confines of the Duchies of

_Juliers_ and _Limbourg_. ’Tis encompass’d with Mountains, which form so

pleasant a Vale, that _Charlemain_ chose rather to reside at

_Aix-la-Chapelle_, than in either of the many beautiful Cities which he

conquer’d. This Emperor caus’d a Collegiate Church to be built here, in

which his Tomb is still to be seen; and the Memory of that Prince is to

this day held in great Veneration. On the Festival of St. _Charles_,

there’s a solemn Procession here, in which the Effigies of that Monarch is

carried with an Equipage which excites Laughter rather than Devotion. The

Preacher’s Pulpit in this same Collegiate Church is inrich’d with Plates

of Gold; and they say that the Branch which hangs down before the High

Altar is of the same Metal. ’Tis in this Church that many Emperors have

been consecrated; and several of the Imperial Ornaments are still kept

there. The Emperor is born Canon of the Church of _Aix_, and takes the

Oath as such on the Day of his Coronation.

Certain Reliques are preserv’d at _Aix-la-Chapelle_, which are shew’d but

once in seven years; and then they are expos’d to View from the top of a

Tower in the City, during which the People gaze at them on their Knees, in

the Squares and Streets leading to the said Tower. This Ceremony was

perform’d when I was at _Aix_ in 1713, at which time there was a Concourse

to it of an incredible number of Pilgrims from _Hungary_, _Tirol_, and all

the Provinces of _Germany_. Persons of superior Rank are allow’d the

Liberty of going up to the top of the Tower where those Reliques are

expos’d, and may look near to them, but must by no means touch them. Of

all that I saw, I only remember a Smock, which they affirm was the

Virgin’s: There were some spots on it, which they said were the Stains of

the Milk with which she suckled the Savior of the World. This Shift seem’d

to be quite seamless, and made of a sort of Stuff which I know not how to

describe to you, for it was neither of Linnen nor Callico.

The City of _Aix_ is very famous for its hot Baths, and for the Waters

that are taken there twice a year, _viz._ in _Spring_ and _Autumn_; at

which two Seasons there’s a great Resort hither of Foreigners. The Waters

are hot, and of a very unpleasant Taste, and they smell like a rotten Egg;

for which reason People are loth to take them when they first come; but

after they are us’d to it, they go down very well. The Baths especially

are wonderfully good against the Contraction of the Sinews and against

Wounds. Nor is there a Place where the Waters are us’d with more

Conveniency, there being plenty of every thing that one wou’d wish for,

and especially good Company; for _Brabant_, _Liege_, _France_, _Holland_

and _Germany_, lie so near to it, that there’s always a great many People

here, and very good Diversion.

I set out from _Aix_ for PARIS, by the way of _Maestricht_ and _Louvain_;

but as I travell’d Post thro’ these Towns, I shall reserve the Description

of them to you, till such time as I make a longer stay in them. On my

Arrival at _Paris_ I was deeper in Love than ever. I was receiv’d by my

dear Mistress with such Tokens of Love, as gave me all the reason in the

world to think, that I was the happiest Man living: And in reality I was

so, because at that time I knew of no other Happiness than to be in her

good Graces; yet my natural Levity made me soon think otherwise. I saw the

Marchioness _de P----_; and I will frankly own to you, that all the

Veneration I had for _S----_ abated. I thought then there was nothing to

compare with the new Object of my Passion. _S----_ quickly perceiv’d my

Inconstancy, and reproach’d me for it; but they were Reproaches unmix’d

with Gall, and such as nothing but Love can inspire. The consequence was,

that my Passion for her reviv’d; and upon this occasion I was made

sensible, that a Flame not well extinguish’d is always apt to burst out

again; and that there needs no great Compulsion to renew the Passion of

Love. The Sentiments of the Man of Honor being join’d to those of the

Lover, I ask’d my own Conscience what _S----_ had ever done to disgust me.

And in fine, I gave Judgment against my self, that I could not without

Ingratitude forsake so amiable a Mistress. I took care, therefore, to

absent my self by degrees from the Marchioness _de P----_; and found it no

very hard matter to stifle a Passion, which, to speak plainly, was but a

sudden Flash.

While I staid at the Court of _France_, I saw the Ceremony of the double

Marriage of the Duke of _Bourbon_ and the Prince of _Conti_, who married

each other’s Sister. The Duke married _Mary-Anne_ of _Bourbon-Conti_,

Sister to the Prince of _Conti_, who married _Louisa-Elizabeth_ of

_Bourbon-Condé_, the Duke’s Sister.

These Marriages made no addition to the Pleasures of the Court, and every

thing remained very quiet, till News came of the Advantages which the

Marshal _de Villars_ had gain’d over the Allies. This Campaign was both

glorious and advantageous to the Marshal; and every body talk’d of the

immense Sums of Money which he had put into his Pocket. His Conduct was

narrowly pry’d into, and his Enemies charg’d that to him as a Crime, for

which, perhaps, they would have commended any other General. They said

that he brought with him several Waggons laden with Bandoliers for

Safeguards; and that he got so much Money by this means, that at his

Return he laid out 1,800,000 Livres in a Purchase. Nay, they had the

Assurance to speak of it to the King, who said to the Marshal one day at

Dinner, _That he heard he had bought a fine Estate. ’Tis true, Sir_,

reply’d the Marshal, _I have just purchas’d a very pretty Estate_; _and if

I have the Honor to command your Army next year, I hope to buy a more

considerable one and make your Enemies pay for it_. This Answer quite

broke the Measures of those who had endeavour’d to do the Marshal ill

Offices. He knew very well that he had Enemies, but it gave him little

Concern; for he was in high Favor, and he deserv’d it. They say that when

he set out to make the Campaign in 1713, he said to the King at taking

leave of him, _I desire your Majesty to remember, that while I am going

to fight your Enemies, I leave your Majesty in the midst of mine._ He

acquitted himself very bravely; and at length, by the Reduction of

_Landau_ and _Fribourg_, he procur’d that Peace, by which the Electors of

_Cologne_ and _Bavaria_ were restor’d to their Dominions.

After I had been some Months at _Paris_ I receiv’d Letters from _Berlin_,

with Advice, that the King had Thoughts of forming his Houshold; and that

I could not do better than to go and offer him my Service. I was not long

in demurring upon what Course to take. I had always been bred up in

Sentiments which convinc’d me, that to serve one’s Sovereign was

preferable to any other Service; and besides, I always found my self

naturally attach’d to the Family of our Kings. I therefore resolv’d to

leave _Paris_ once more. You know my Humor so well, _Madame_, that you

cannot think but it was with some Reluctance that I form’d a Resolution of

this nature; and I will frankly own to you, that I was heartily grieved to

leave a Place where I had my fill of Pleasures, which I knew I could not

have a Taste of elsewhere: but at length I gave Attention only to my Duty;

and tho’ the Tears which I saw shed for my sake melted my Heart, yet they

were not powerful enough to make me alter my Design.

From _Paris_ to _Wesel_, I went the same Road that I came; and from

_Wesel_ I proceeded to HANOVER, where I fell sick. My Design was to be

_incog._ but the ill State of my Health oblig’d me to have recourse to a

Physician; nay, I thought one while, that all the Remedies in the World

would do me no good; and that ’twas high Time for me to prepare in good

earnest for my last long Journey. My Kinswoman Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_

was soon inform’d of my Arrival; and as soon acquainted the Electoress of

it, who was so gracious as to send to know how I did; and this she

repeated twice every day as long as I was ill. This Princess always had a

Kindness for me, which I shall for ever acknowledge. I was told, that

during my Illness, _F----_ thinking to divert the Company at my Expence,

said at the Elector’s Table, _That my Distemper was not mortal; that I had

caught it in +France+; and that there were Surgeons at +Hanover+ who had

Skill enough to set me to rights._ The Electoress was very angry with him,

and said, _Sir, your Banter is absurd; if he had the Distemper that you

say, he would have staid in +France+ for the Cure, since he is not

ignorant, that the People of this Country go thither for the same Purpose;

and he has too much Sense not to follow their Example_.

As soon as I was able to get abroad, I did not fail to wait on the

Electoress with my most humble Thanks. That Princess gave me a much better

Reception than I durst presume to have expected. The Kindness which she

show’d to me, induc’d Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_ and Madame _de K----_ to

think, that I might easily obtain Admission into her Service if I would

but ask her; and accordingly those Ladies prevail’d on me to take that

Step, tho’ I very much question’d my Success; and I found by Experience

that my Suspicion was but too well grounded. I made my Application to the

Princess by Letter; in which, perhaps, I acted indiscreetly, because I

thereby gave her Leisure to take the Opinion of other People. Accordingly

she did so; and to my misfortune applied to Madame _de B----_ who could

not endure me; because, as I heard afterwards, _Madame_ of _France_ had

acquainted the Electoress, that I told her the Electoral Prince had a

particular Respect for her Ladyship. This was enough to exasperate a

Person against me, who made outward Profession of the most rigid Virtue;

and when the Electoress consulted her about me, she was transported to

think what an infallible Opportunity she had to be reveng’d. She artfully

insinuated to the Electoress, that she ought not to admit me into her

Service, and did not want Reasons to back her Insinuations; the Desire of

Revenge being what always supplies specious Arguments in abundance to hurt

an Enemy. The Electoress so well approv’d of those she made use of to

exclude me from her Service, that she order’d M. _de P----_ to tell me,

_That she was very much oblig’d to me for the Attachment which I

manifested for her Person; but that she could not imagine, that after I

had serv’d a King, I should like to wait upon so old a Princess as she

was: That ’twould be more suitable for me to be in the Service of her Son;

and that she should take a Pleasure to help me to it: But that as for her

self she must stay till she was Queen of +England+ before she could admit

me into her Service; because, if that should happen, she should then be in

a better Capacity to make my Fortune_. You perceive, _Madame_, this was a

Refusal that I could not well complain of, ’twas so season’d with

everything to take off the Bitterness of it. For my part, I own to you

that I felt none. As I had only taken this Step in pure Complaisance to

Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_, she was stung to the quick at this Denial;

not so much for my sake (I knew very well what the matter was) but for her

own; whose Vanity was very much mortify’d by it; for she thought her self

in Favor, and saw ’twas a Favor without any Credit: And her Resentment

proceeded so far, that she hinder’d me from taking Leave of the

Electoress, who in a few days after set out for _Gohr_ with the Prince her

Son. For my part I also set out from _Hanover_ for BERLIN.

When I came thither I found the King’s Houshold Officers already

nominated, yet this did not hinder me from asking his Majesty for

Employment. The Person who spoke for me was M. _de Printz_ the Grand

Marshal, who brought me News of a Refusal of a very different sort from

what I found at _Hanover_. In the latter, I had no reason to complain of

the Electoress, who with all the Politeness possible refus’d me a Favor,

which when all is said and done, I should not have valued, if I had not

ask’d for it. But now I had a very cruel Repulse, by being deny’d the only

thing for which I had undertaken the Journey to _Berlin_. The Behaviour of

the Court to me in this Instance concern’d me not a little. I had never

done any thing to seclude me from an Establishment in my own Country. My

Ancestors had serv’d in it, and bore such a distinguish’d Rank in it too,

that I might very well think some Notice would have been taken of me.

Moreover, I had the Honour of being Gentleman of the Bed-chamber to the

late King, but now had the Mortification of seeing Persons prefer’d before

me who had never been seen at Court, and such too for most part as are of

very obscure Birth. Finding therefore I had no hopes of succeeding at

Court, I saw that I must go seek my Fortune elsewhere, and I thought of

entring into the Service of the King of _Poland_. There was not a fitter

Man upon earth to serve me with that Prince than his Prime Minister the

Count _de Flemming_, who happen’d to be then at _Berlin_ upon his Master’s

Affairs. I got my Friends to speak to the Count, and attended him

constantly. That Minister seem’d inclinable to serve me, and promis’d to

speak for me to the King his Master.

He set out for WARSAW the latter end of _November_, and thither I follow’d

him; upon which he introduc’d me to the King, and to all the

Court-Nobility. I cou’d not have set out better than I did at the Court of

_Poland_. I was patronis’d by the Man who mov’d in the highest Sphere

there, next to the King himself; and for that Reason every body strove to

shew me Respect. The Count _de Flemming_ seem’d to be pleas’d at the

Regard that was paid to me; at least, I was so short-sighted as not to

perceive that it was to him a matter of very great Indifference. I was

excusable in not suspecting him of double dealing with me; for hitherto I

had no other Reason but to applaud his Generosity, and that Good-will

which he had express’d to do me Service. Endeavors were not wanting to

undeceive me, and I soon after saw with my own Eyes, that the fair

Promises he made to me were nothing more nor less, than what they call

_Court-Holy-Water_.

Not long after my Arrival at _Warsaw_, the King of _Poland_ set out for

_Germany_. I thought my self bound in Interest to wait for his Return, in

order to treat about my Affairs; and I spent this time at _Warsaw_ in the

most agreeable manner that could be. I was soon known by all the _Polish_

Nobility, who were as civil to me as could be imagin’d. Every thing I

beheld made me fancy I was at _Paris_, there being every where the same

Politeness, and a certain easy Deportment which the _French_ think none

are Masters of but themselves. The _Polish_ Ladies are very amiable,

witty, and have a good deal of Sprightliness. With these Qualities, one

would naturally imagine they are not indifferent to Pleasures; and I

observ’d that they have a delicate and very exquisite Taste for every

thing that passes under the Name of Diversions. They are passionately fond

of Music, and still more of Plays. And at _Warsaw_ they have as much of

both as they desire; for the King, who is a Prince as gallant as he is

magnificent, takes care that every thing be done at Court, in a manner

worthy of a great Prince. He maintains a Set of _French_ Comedians there;

and moreover, frequently gives Balls and Concerts. These Diversions are

generally attended with noble Feasts that the King makes for the Ladies of

his Court; at which times, that Prince is always admir’d for his good

Mien, and for that Gracefulness which sets off all his Actions.

The _Polish_ Lords are not near so gay as the Ladies; or, at least, they

don’t come up to them for Elegance and Contrivance. Their Domestics and

Equipage are generally slovenly; their Tables are indeed serv’d with

Profusion, but without Delicacy, which I take to be intirely owing to the

want of good Officers or skilful Cooks; for in other respects, _Poland_ is

a Country, where there is as good Cheer as any in the World. Their

Butcher’s Meat is delicious, and they have plenty of good Fish. Wine is

not the Produce of the Country, but the want of it is not perceiv’d at

the Tables of the _Polish_ Nobility, where the Wine of _Hungary_, tho’

very dear, is drank as common as Water. I observed one thing at the

Generality of their Tables, that does not tally with the Grandeur which

they pretend to, _viz._ That the Master of the House and his intimate

Friends drink the best Wine, while the other Guests that are invited, are

oblig’d to put up with the common sort. Tis to be observ’d, that tho’

_Poland_ abounds with all Necessaries for Life, yet ’tis a Country very

inconvenient for Travellers, especially those who are not in a Capacity to

carry every thing along with them. I have not seen a Place where there is

so little Accommodation at the Public-Houses, there being hardly a Chair

in them to sit down upon. Therefore the Travellers of any Fashion take

care to carry all Necessaries with them. The Duke of _York_, Bishop of

_Osnabruck_, said a very pertinent thing upon this occasion, _viz._ _That

he did not know a Country where Travellers were more at home than in

+Poland+, because they were always making use of their own Furniture_.

I heard that the King was shortly to go for _Dresden_, and therefore I set

out thither immediately with the Count _de Hoim_, a Minister of State to

his _Polish_ Majesty. In my Way to _Dresden_ I saw no Place of Note but

_Breslau_ and _Leipsic_. BRESLAU, the Capital of _Silesia_, is a pretty

large and very beautiful City, which in the Winter-Season is inhabited by

a great Number of Nobility. The Count _de Flemming_ stopping there a

couple of days, I halted there too. I saw very good Company here,

especially at the Houses of the Count _de Maltzam_, and the Princess of

_Teschen_, who was formerly the Princess _Lubomirski_. This Lady made a

grand Figure, gave People a hearty Reception, and treated with

Magnificence. I could have wish’d to have staid at _Breslau_ a few days

longer; but as the Count _de Flemming_, by whose Patronage I hop’d still

to get some Establishment at Court, was going to the King in _Saxony_, I

went with him to the Fair at _Leipsic_, where the King and Queen were

already arriv’d. As the King had been absent a good while, the Princes of

the Blood, and a great number of Persons of Quality, came hither to pay

their Respects to him; and after the Fair was ended, his Majesty return’d

to _Dresden_, where he had not been long arriv’d, but he married the Count

_de Saxony_ (his natural Son by the Countess of _Koningsmarck_) to

Mademoiselle _de Loven_, who was a young Gentlewoman of a good Family, and

one of the richest in _Silesia_. The Ceremony of this Marriage was

perform’d in presence of the whole Court; and for several days the King

gave Feasts answerable to his good Fancy and Magnificence. His Majesty is

very fond of this Count of _Saxony_, who is one of the most amiable

Gentlemen that I have seen; and besides, he very much resembles the King

of _Poland_, which, to be sure, makes that Monarch the more in love with

him.

DRESDEN[47] was then the Centre of the Pleasures of _Germany_, and the

Plays, _&c._ exhibited here, made me almost think I was at _Paris_. I will

not trouble you with all the Particulars of the several splendid

Entertainments that were made in the Carnival Time, there having been

enough written on that Subject already by other Pens. I shall have the

Honor, therefore, to say nothing more of it to you, than that every

Spectator was more charm’d with the King’s affable Behavior, than they

were with the Beauty of the Representations, and the Splendor of the

Feasts.

I should, no doubt, have had a better Relish for all these Pleasures, if I

could have lik’d the Situation of my Affairs. I had all along conceiv’d

Hopes of entring into the Service of _Poland_, and plac’d a very great

Dependance on the Promises made by the Count _de Flemming_; but when I

came to _Dresden_, I found the Face of Affairs quite chang’d. I put him in

remembrance of his Promise; but he answer’d me in such a droll manner, as

convinc’d me that I ought not to expect any great Matter from him.

However, that I might have nothing to reproach my self with, I still

continu’d to give him Marks of a very great Attachment to his Person. Yet

I met with several Rebuffs, which did not discourage me; and which I had

the more Reason to bear with Patience, because I knew that he treated his

most trusty Confidents in the same manner. At last, not caring, perhaps,

to do any thing of himself, he sent me to M. _de Lowendahl_ the Grand

Marshal, and the latter referr’d me to M. _de Fitzthum_ the King’s

Favorite. I was charm’d with this Gentleman’s Politeness and good Manners;

and I don’t think there ever was a Favorite more obliging, and that took

less upon him. Far from amusing me, he convinc’d me of the Impossibility

there was of my obtaining any Place at Court, unless the King thro’ his

special Grace should be inclin’d to prefer me; which could not be done

neither, without disobliging several of the _Polish_ Noblemen, who

likewise sollicited Places at Court, and seem’d to have a sort of Right to

them by virtue of their Birth. I did not yet quite despair of Success;

and as this was a Favor that could only be granted by means of the Count

_de Flemming_, I had recourse again to that Minister; but I was never the

nearer. To be sure I took a wrong time to speak to him about my Business,

when perhaps he had other Affairs of greater Consequence that might

ingross his Thoughts. In a word, he rebuff’d me to such a degree, as was

sufficient to make me quite renounce my Pretensions. I took leave of the

King and Queen, and prepar’d to go for _Berlin_.

But before I set out, an Adventure happen’d, which, together with my

Vexation that I had not succeeded in my Designs, made me hate to stay any

longer at _Dresden_, as much as I was in love with the Place when first I

came to it. At _Leipsic_ Fair I had drawn a Bill of 300 Crowns, payable to

the Bearer. The Person for whom I drew the Bill had given a Commission to

a Merchant at _Dresden_ to receive that Sum. The Bill did not come to the

Merchant’s Hands, till the very Day of my Departure; and as the Term was

expir’d, he sent to my Quarters for the Money. I was not at home that

Minute; and the Man hearing that I was to set out the same Day, made use

of a Custom introduc’d and constantly observ’d in _Saxony_; which is, to

arrest the Person that fails to answer a Bill of Exchange upon the Day

appointed; so that just as I was going into my Chaise I was made a

Prisoner. It happen’d to be about ten o’clock at Night. By Misfortune I

had lost a great deal at Play this Carnival; and not having so much Money

by me, I had recourse to the Count _de Flemming_; who lent it to me. This

was the only time that I can be sure that Nobleman did me any Service. I

repaid him soon after my Arrival at _Berlin_.

Without making a long stay at _Berlin_, I went and pass’d a few days at an

Estate which I have, two Leagues out of that City; but the Uneasiness that

haunted me every where, made me resolve to return to _France_, having

still in View the getting some Establishment at _Berlin_ or elsewhere.

While I was preparing every thing for my Journey, I had the Misfortune to

break my Left Leg by a Fall from my Horse. This Accident, after the

various Disgraces and Disappointments I had already suffer’d, Does it not,

_Madame_, give you the Idea of another _Orestes_, pursu’d by Destiny from

one Country to another? I could expect nothing more after this, than to

fall into the Hands of some Quack of a Bone-setter, who, after putting me

to Torture, would, perhaps, leave me a Cripple for all the rest of my

Life. To tell you the plain Truth, I had some Apprehension of it; for a

Man of my Kidney could not but be afraid of every thing in such a Case.

However, whether it was owing to Hap-hazard, or to the Skill of the

Surgeon, after suffering very great Torment, I was perfectly cur’d; and in

such a manner, that I never felt any thing of it afterward. The ninth Day

after my Fall I went to _Berlin_. As my Indisposition was such, that I

could travel neither in a Chaise nor Coach, I hir’d Porters to carry me;

so that my Entry was more than ordinary comic. This new Equipage surpriz’d

all that saw it, the Children especially, who not being us’d to see such

Carriages, follow’d me from the Out-parts of the City to my Lodgings; and

as the Numbers swell’d by the Way, the Train consisted of at least 200

Followers, by that time I came home. I was very sensible, at my Arrival,

that I had done wrong to be carried abroad so soon; for a Fever took me,

and not long after an Imposthume gather’d, that bred the Distemper which

they call in _France_ the _King’s Evil_. A fresh Reason this for my

Complaint of the Severity of my Destiny; for in reality I suffer’d such

Pains for above twenty Days, as are impossible for me to express.

As soon as I was in a Condition to go abroad, I waited on the Queen, who

had just receiv’d Tydings, that the Elector of _Hanover_, her Father, was

then call’d over by the _English_ to succeed the deceas’d Queen _Anne_. No

doubt, _Madame_, you remember the Joy there was at Court upon this News.

The King made an Offer to the new Monarch of any Assistance that he might

have occasion for, to support him on the Throne. Some days after the

Arrival of this great News, I took leave of the Queen, and set out for

HAMBOURG.

I was very well receiv’d in this City by _L----_, who was at that time

Envoy from _Prussia_ to the Circle of Lower _Saxony_. I knew him at a time

when Fortune, as it were, frown’d upon him; but now it might be said, that

she had loaded him with her Favors. He was glad to see me, and that he had

an Opportunity of shewing me in what Grandure he liv’d. Since he had

married a Woman, who was, indeed, very old, but very rich, he had been so

wise as to make an Acquaintance with such as were capable of serving him;

and whether ’twas owing to Money, or to mere Favor, he was quickly made a

Minister of State; and in a little time after receiv’d the Key as one of

the King’s Chamberlains. I was very well pleas’d to see him in so

splendid a Situation; but could not help taking pity on him for being

yok’d to a Wife so disagreeable. She was a Person, who with the Obstinacy

and Ill-nature of Old Age, had all the Mettle of Youth, besides her being

a perfect Original both in her Apparel, and in the Furniture of her House.

Her Husband could never prevail upon her to dress as became a Person of

her Rank, nor to alter any thing in her Furniture, tho’ ever so unpolite.

I had the Pleasure one day that I was invited thither to Supper, of

examining the Inside of the House at my Leisure. The Apartment where we

supp’d was furnish’d in a very whimsical Manner. The first Room was lin’d

with black Leather gilt, and round it were plac’d Chairs of green Taffety,

adorn’d with Furbelows of a Rose Color. The second Chamber was hung with

green Tapestry. The Chairs were of black Velvet, lac’d with Gold, and the

Room was full of Crystal Sconces. At one End of it there was an Alcove

hung with white Leather gilded, and in the Middle of the Alcove there was

a Bed of a very extraordinary Fashion, which had no Curtains, but had four

Pillars to support the Tester, and a Wooden Cornish at the top gilded; and

the Whole was cover’d with Mother of Pearl and Tortoise-shell. The Bed had

a Counterpane on it of black Velvet and Gold-Lace. In the four Corners of

the Alcove were four Statues of white Marble, each holding a Wax-Candle.

There were other Wax-Candles upon gilded Sconces, and a very fine Branch.

The Whole, I assure you, look’d much more like a Room for lying in State,

than a Chamber for Entertainment. We sat down, however, to Table; but this

amiable Lady refus’d to be of the Company, and chose to stay behind a

Door, which was in the Alcove, from whence she resolv’d to be a

Spectatress of the Entertainment through the Chinks.

We were all heartily at Supper, and in very little pain for the Absence of

our Landlady, when on a sudden there came from the Alcove a very ugly

Figure, dress’d all in white. I was the first that perceiv’d it; and

really, if I had given ever so little Credit to the haunting of Houses by

Spirits, I should have thought I then saw one. The Whole perfectly

resembled that Scene of the Knight in the _Festin de Pierre_, excepting

nevertheless that we were not honor’d with the least Obeisance. I heard

swearing and scolding at the Domestics, which made me suspect that it

might be the Mistress of the House. Nor was I mistaken, we were obliged

for this Apparition to a Wax-Candle that drop’d upon a Velvet Chair, which

she perceiv’d from the Place where she was conceal’d, and stay’d some

time, thinking that one or other of the Domestics would have remedied this

Evil; but at last seeing that no body minded it, she resolv’d to come out

her self to the Relief of the Chair. This Apparition was the Cause of a

great Hurly-burly; the Lackeys excus’d themselves, because they were

employ’d in waiting; and there were long and warm Disputes on both sides,

betwixt the Mistress and the Servants, during which, the Guests, who rose

in Respect to the Lady, were all the while standing. The Husband

endeavor’d to pacify his dear Spouse, and made her sensible of the

Situation in which she kept us; upon which, without making the least

Compliment, she sate down at the Table, and I thought the Rage of the

Storm was over; but far from it, she was no sooner seated than she began

again to rave with more Fury than before. A Lackey, to whom, it seems,

all this Bawling was more distasteful than it was to us, thought fit to

tell her very bluntly, _That she made a great Noise for nothing_. Then the

Lady was quite outragious, and went to give the Lackey a Blow with all the

Weight of her Arm; but the Droll cunningly parry’d it, by receiving the

Stroke upon a Plate he had in his Hand; which, as he manag’d it, serv’d

him for a Shield. The Gentlewoman gave herself such a terrible Blow, that

for one while she could not speak; and when she came to her self, she made

a worse Racket than before. At length, the Lackey was turn’d out of the

Room; and at that very instant, luckily for us, the Pain which the Lady

felt for the Blow, increas’d to such a degree, that she was forc’d to

retire. She was no sooner gone but we all burst out in a Laugh. The

Husband himself was ready to split his Sides, and desir’d the Company to

be under no manner of Restraint, but to talk as gayly of this Adventure as

we pleas’d. Indeed we were heartily merry at the Expence of the Old Lady;

but yet we were the greatest Losers by it in the end; for while we thought

her a good way out of Hearing, she thought fit to stay at the Door to

listen to what we said, which not being to her liking, she took an

immediate Revenge, for she deprived us of the Dessert, and the poor

Husband had not Interest enough to get another.

I was so gorg’d at this charming Repast, that for fear of a second

Invitation I set out next Day for HANOVER, where I arriv’d the very Day

before the new King set out for _England_. The Electoress, his Mother, to

whom the Crown first belong’d of Right, died suddenly, as she was walking

in _Herrenhausen_ Garden, not long before Queen _Anne_ died. The Elector

her Son was recogniz’d King by the _English_, as the next Protestant Heir;

for if the Catholics could have had any Right to the Crown, this Elector

would have been but the 23d or 24th in the direct Line. The Nobleman who

acquainted the Elector of his Advancement to the Crown was my Lord

_Clarendon_, Envoy from the Queen of _England_ at the Court of _Hanover_.

Perhaps it was with some Regret that he executed this Commission, being

related to the _Stuart_ Family; and as it was generally thought, not very

much inclin’d to the Family which now governs _England_. Be this as it

will, he discharg’d the Commission with a good Grace. My Lord receiv’d the

News that the _English_ had proclaim’d the Elector for their King, one

Evening as he had been at Supper with that Prince at a House called _The

Whim_, belonging to Madame _de K----_, now my Lady _L----_. As his

Lordship came home he found a Courier just arriv’d with the Privy

Council’s Orders to him, to recognize the Elector for King of _England_.

He immediately got into his Coach, and went to _Herrenhausen_, where he

found the Elector a-bed. His Lordship thinking ’twas worth while to awake

the Elector, for the sake of telling him the News that so great a Diadem

was fallen to him, enter’d his Bed-Chamber, and kneeling on the Floor, was

the first that recogniz’d the Elector for King. This Prince immediately

summon’d his Council. Many People were pleas’d to say, that the Elector

hesitated for a good while, whether or no he should accept of the August

Dignity that was offer’d to him; but for my part, I fancy, that the Voyage

to _England_ was more the Subject of the Council’s Deliberation, than the

Question, whether its Crown should be accepted.

After the Council was over, the new King was complimented upon his

Accession to the Throne; and that very Instant he gave Orders to get every

thing ready for his Departure, which was fix’d for the 11th of

_September_. The Time between the Elector’s assuming the Royal Stile and

his Departure, was spent in sending and receiving Couriers to and from the

principal Courts of _Europe_. All the Nobility and Gentry, Subjects to the

new Monarch, flock’d from all Parts to see him before he went away. This

Prince was so well belov’d, that his Subjects were very sorry that he was

going to leave them; but for his part, tho’ his People were not a little

dear to him, he preserv’d that Tranquillity of Mind, and that Discretion,

which govern’d all his Actions; and he seem’d no more concerned at parting

with them, than he was elated with his new Dignity: but it was otherwise

with the Prince his Son, who was so impress’d with the Fortune added to

his Family, that I heard him say to an _English_ Gentleman, the Day before

he went, _That he had not one Drop of Blood in his Veins but what was

+English+, and at the Service of his new Subjects_.

On the 11th of _September_, early in the Morning, the King and the Prince

of _Wales_ set out from _Herrenhausen_, amidst the Acclamations of the

Court and the People, with which the Road was lin’d. They wish’d his

Majesty all manner of Happiness, and accompanied him with their good

wishes a good distance from _Herrenhausen_, before they took Leave of his

Majesty. The last Farewels were attended with so many Tears, that the King

could not help being a little mov’d; and he assur’d them, _That it should

not be long before he would make a Tour to_ Hanover.

The King’s Retinue was not very numerous; for he only took with him such

Persons as were absolutely necessary for his Service; and of these too, he

sent some back, when he went on board the Yatcht that came for him to

_Holland_, to carry him over to _England_. The Princess of _Wales_

follow’d the King some time after, with the Princesses her Daughters; but

Prince _Frederic_ her Son remain’d at _Hanover_ for his Education.

When the King came to _London_, he found Subjects as much attach’d to his

Person, as those he had left at _Hanover_; and not long after his Arrival

he was, according to Custom, crown’d at _Westminster_. There was so great

a Concourse of People at the Ceremony, that it seem’d as if all the Nation

had flock’d thither to receive their new Sovereign. I was told there was

only one Person, and that was a Woman, who refus’d to own him for King;

and that this happen’d upon the very Day of the Coronation, when a

Champion, arm’d from Head to Foot, entring into the Banquetting-Hall, and

according to Custom challenging any Person whatsoever, who did not

acknowledge the Elector of _Hanover_ as lawful King of _England_, that

Lady threw down her Glove, and with a very ill-tim’d Effrontery made

Answer aloud, _That +James+ the Third was the only lawful Heir of the

Crown, and that the Elector of +Hanover+was an Usurper_.

Not many days after the King of _England_’s Departure, I set out from

_Hanover_ for _Aix-la-Chapelle_, where I made use of the Baths, as my

Physicians had order’d me, to strengthen my Leg. From _Aix_ I proceeded

in the _Paris_ Road to MASTRICHT[48], which is a strong Place belonging to

_Dutch Brabant_, tho’ situate in the middle of the Country of _Liege_, on

which it was for a long time dependent. It was also subject to the

_Spaniards_ till 1633, when it was taken by the _Dutch_, who were

acknowledg’d lawful Possessors thereof by the Peace of _Munster_, and were

thereupon at great Expence to fortify it, so that it was reckon’d one of

the strongest Places in _Europe_, when _Lewis_ XIV. took it in 1673, in 13

Days time. The King himself then commanded his Army; and he had with him

MONSIEUR his Brother. Three Years after this, the Allies besieg’d it also,

but their Arms being not so successful as those of _France_, they were

forc’d to abandon their Enterprize. At last, by the Peace of _Nimeguen_ it

was restor’d to the _Dutch_, who keep a strong Garrison in it.

_Mastricht_ is very well built, in a flat Country, surrounded with Hills.

The _Maese_ runs thro’ the City, over which there is a very high Stone

Bridge. They say that the late Count _d’Auverquerque_, who died

Velt-Marshal of the _Dutch_, out of pure Gallantry, to convince a Lady how

much he lov’d her, leap’d his Horse off the Bridge into the _Maese_. This

young Lady so much belov’d was Mademoiselle _de Feltbruck_. As she was

passing over the Bridge, Count _d’Auverquerque_, who rode by the side of

her Coach, entertain’d her very much about his Passion for her; but Miss

so little heeded what he said, that she scarce vouchsaf’d to lend him an

Ear. At length being fatigu’d with hearing the same String always harp’d

upon, she told him, that Lovers were never sparing of their Promises; but

when any Testimonials were demanded of their Love, they then discover’d

how little it was to be depended on. _For instance, Sir_, said she, _I

would venture a good Wager now, that if I were to ask you to leap from

this Bridge into the River, you would not do it_. The furious Lover made

no other Answer to this Defiance, but clapping Spurs to his Horse, leap’d

him off of the Bridge into the _Maese_. The young Lady thought her

generous Lover would most certainly be drown’d; but luckily for him he

kept his Seat, and his Horse, which was as mettlesome as the best, had

Strength enough after such a Leap, to swim with his Rider to an Island,

whither a Boat was sent to fetch him. After such a Trial as this, the

young Lady might boast, either that she was lov’d to Distraction, or that

she had a distracted Lover.

From _Mastricht_ I went to LOUVAIN[49], which is surnamed the _Wise_,

probably by reason of its University, which was founded in 1426, by _John_

IV. Duke of _Brabant_, and has been in its time one of the most celebrated

Universities in _Europe_; but it has not that Reputation now. And as to

the City, ’tis much more famous for its Antiquity, than upon any other

account; for they say it was founded by _Julius Cæsar_. ’Tis indeed, at

present, a very large City, but ill built, the only remarkable Edifices

that I saw there, are the Collegiate Church dedicated to St. _Peter_, and

the Church of the Jesuits. _Louvain_ is not a Place of great Trade as

yet, but a very fine Causey which is made from thence to _Brussels_, and

another to _Tongres_, which is to be carried on to _Liege_, will very much

increase its Commerce, especially with the _Austrian Netherlands_.

I went from _Louvain_ to _Brussels_, and from thence to GHENT[50], which

is the Capital of _Spanish Flanders_, and one of the biggest Cities in

_Europe_. It stands four Leagues from the Sea, is water’d with three

Rivers, the _Scheld_, the _Lys_, and the _Lise_, and adorn’d with fine

Squares and noble Buildings. The great Clock is worth seeing; it weighs

11000 Pounds, and is erected upon a Dragon, which Count _Baldwin_ brought

from _Constantinople_. A Canal has been dug from this City to the Sea,

which is of very great Service to its Trade.

’Twas at _Ghent_ that _Charles_ V. was born, who granted this City

extraordinary Privileges; yet the Inhabitants were so ungrateful as to

rebel against this Emperor, who resolv’d to punish them for it; and that

he might go the nearer way to work with ’em, ventur’d upon the Parole of

_Francis_ I. to pass thro’ _France_, in order to come at them. He

chastis’d those Rebels with such Severity, that they had no reason to

boast that this Emperor was their Countryman. He caus’d twenty-five of

their principal Citizens to be executed by the common Hangman, banish’d a

greater number of them, confiscated their Estates, and took away all their

Privileges. In fine, _Ghent_ which was one of the most considerable Cities

in _Europe_, soon became a Desert; and _Charles_ V. to leave a Monument

of his Wrath to Posterity, caus’d a Fortress to be built, which is still

the Citadel of this Place, and is of great Consequence to the Emperor,

when he happens to be at War with _France_; for when the _French_ are

Masters of _Ghent_, the Navigation of the _Scheld_ is interrupted; and in

case of a War, ’tis better to see them Masters of _Brussels_ than of

_Ghent_: For I remember, that in 1708, while the Allies besieg’d _Lisle_,

the _French_ being then Masters of _Ghent_, incommoded their Army very

much. This City is finely recover’d since _Charles_ the Vth’s Time. The

States of _Flanders_ have their Assemblies here, and the Emperor commonly

signifies his Will and Pleasure to them, by the Governor-General of the

_Netherlands_ residing at _Brussels_.

From _Ghent_ I went thro’ _Courtray_ and _Menin_ to LISLE[51], which is

the Capital of _French Flanders_, and one of the best and most beautiful

Towns of that Government. It belong’d formerly to the King of _Spain_,

till 1667, when _Lewis_ XIV. took it in Person. The Garison then

consisting of but 6000 Men, was not strong enough to check the Progress of

the _French_ Arms, so that after nine Days open Trenches the Place was

taken. _Lisle_ was left in the Possession of _France_ by the Treaty of

_Aix-la-Chapelle_, in 1668; but in 1708, the Allies after a tedious and

toilsome Siege, made themselves Masters of it. At last, however, this City

reverted to _France_ by the Treaty of _Utrecht_. The Inhabitants were so

overjoy’d at their not being left in subjection to the _Dutch_, which they

were afraid of, that on the Day the Place was evacuated, they made

Bonfires in all parts of the Town; and not without Cause, for after they

fell under the Dominion of the _Dutch_, their Trade stood still, those new

Guests chusing rather to send for what they wanted from _Holland_, than to

make use of the Manufactures of this City. But with the _French_ the Case

was otherwise, for they bought their Necessaries in the City, and liv’d

with the Inhabitants on perfect good Terms.

_Lewis_ XIV. made _Lisle_ one of the finest Places in _Europe_. Its

Streets are magnificent, and particularly the Street _Royale_, built in

the Reign of that Monarch. ’Tis very strait, and adorn’d on both sides

with very fine Houses built alike. In this City resides the Governor of

_Flanders_. The Marshal _de Boufflers_ was succeeded in this Government by

the Duke his Son. When I was here, the Prince _de Tingry_, Governor of

_Valenciennes_, officiated in this Government for the said Duke, who was

then under Age.

I was so impatient to be at _Paris_, that I made no stay in any Place upon

the Road, till I arriv’d there. I alighted at a Bagnio, and the first

Sally I made abroad was to pay my Devoirs to Mademoiselle _de S----_.

Absence had not damp’d my Flame, and I was only glad to see _Paris_ again,

in hopes of finding out her whom I ador’d. But how was I surpriz’d when

the Mother of that lovely Damsel came to welcome me with a Flood of Tears,

and told me, that I must think no more of her Daughter, for that she died

about a Month ago in the Province of _Perigord_, whither she went to

accompany a Lady of her Acquaintance! I was so thunder-struck at this

News, that I was not able to speak. I fainted away, was carried back to my

Lodgings, and was that Moment let blood; but ’twas some time after it

before I came to my self, and then I did nothing but give my self up to

Sorrow. Mine was no longer an inward Grief, but vented it self in such

continual Exclamations interrupted with Sighs, that every one who saw me

believ’d I was going the way of all Flesh; or that, at least, I should be

out of my Senses: And truly they were not much mistaken, for I was so in a

great measure. In this unhappy Situation did I remain five whole Days, at

the end of which the Mother of _S----_ came to make me a Visit; and at her

entring into my Room, she told me, that her Daughter was not dead; and

that she had just receiv’d a Letter from her, by which she acquainted her,

that she should soon be at _Paris_. This sort of Resurrection was as

reviving News to me, as the former was mortifying. I felt a surprizing

Revolution in my Spirits; and am of Opinion, that if ’tis possible to die

with an Excess of Joy or of Grief, I had share enough of both those

Passions within a short Space of Time not to survive them. But I was

reserv’d by Fate for other Adventures.

In Fact, I was hardly recover’d from the several Shocks which I had lately

undergone, but was forc’d to bear the Brunt of another. The Occasion of

this was, meeting at the House of a Lady of my Acquaintance with a Friend

of _S----_, whose Name was Madame _de R----_; and who had been married for

some time, by the Advice of her Parents, to a Man far advanc’d in Years.

The young Lady hated her Husband more heartily than is common for Girls of

sixteen that marry to Men of above sixty. I had seen her formerly, but she

was then so young, that I did not much mind her: And happy wou’d it have

been for me, if I had always view’d her with the same Indifference! But

when I came to see her after her Marriage, her Beauty, her fine Presence

and her noble Deportment made a very sensible Impression on me. I was

pitch’d upon to play at Cards with her and another Lady, and all the time

she did nothing but rally me upon my Amour with _S----_, and hinted

several times to me, that the Lady was not deserving of the Heart I had

set upon her. As I could not guess to what all this Discourse tended, when

the Game was over I went with the Lady to a distant Window, and there

begged her for God’s sake to explain her self. She stood out a long while,

on pretence that she should be oblig’d to tell me what would only make me

uneasy: But all these Delays rendering me still the more impatient to know

what it could be, I press’d her to such a degree that at last she

consented to let me into the Secret. _You won’t take a Denial, I see_,

said she: _Well then, if you must know, you shall. But you must thank your

self for it, if I tell you what will heartily vex you; for I know your

Temper, and to what a Degree you are smitten. You think_, continu’d she,

_that_ S---- _is in the Country, but you are mistaken; for she is at_

Paris, _and has never been out of it all the time. She is as much in love

with the Marquis_ de V----, _as he is with her. She keeps no Company now

but him. Two Months ago she remov’d from her House in the Suburb of_ St.

Antoine, _where she then liv’d, because she heard you was coming to Town.

The truth is, she did not care you should reproach her to her Face; and

being in Hopes that you might forget her, she sent to let you know, that

she was dead; but hearing that you was so inconsolably melancholy, it

mov’d her to pity you, and she has now sent you word that she is still

living. Indeed it won’t be long before you see her; but it will only be to

receive your Dismission, and to give you to understand from her own Lips,

that she prefers_ V----_’s Addresses to yours. I have heard all this from

one of my Waiting-Women, whose Sister is a Servant to Madame_ S----. _For

as to my part, since I am married to M._ R----, _’tis not convenient for

me to keep her Company. You will do well to renounce her, and need not

fear but you may find better than her._ As she express’d these Words her

Eyes darted in my Face, and at the same instant she blush’d. I was going

to make her an Answer, but she left me abruptly, and all the rest of the

Evening made it her Business to avoid me, I thought, however, to have an

Opportunity of speaking to her when she was going out; but she went away

with another Lady, so that ’twas impossible for me to say a Word to her.

I return’d home miserably disturb’d in my Mind. Hatred, Love, Revenge,

Contempt; in short, all the Passions of a Lover, slighted on the one hand,

and flatter’d on the other, play’d their part to rack my Brain. Guess,

_Madame_, in what a Condition I was, when I had such violent Attacks to

struggle with. In fine, Contempt triumph’d over the Passion I had

conceiv’d for _S----_. The charming Eyes of Madame _de R----_ made me

forget the false-hearted Creature on whom I had doated. But in the sequel

I was quickly convinc’d that I was no sooner cur’d of one foolish Amour,

but I was plung’d into another of the same Nature. The last Words of

_R----_ seem’d to be very engaging; I explain’d them in my own favor, and

thought sincerely that she had taken a Fancy to me. I flatter’d my self

again and again with these agreeable Notions, and found an infinite

Pleasure in making my own Chain. Nevertheless you will soon see that I was

bubbled as much in this Amour as I was in the former. Madame _de R----_

was one of the finest Women, and without dispute one of the greatest

Coquettes in _Paris_; being whimsical withal, and more self-conceited than

Women of that Cast generally are; she did not understand what it was to

settle her Heart upon any Man, and yet expected to be doated on herself. I

push’d head-long into this new Engagement, and thought my self at one time

the happiest Man in the World. My Friends too were as much deceiv’d as I

was, and thought me for a long while the only Favorite. I will tell ye

hereafter what became of this Amour, and shall for the present break off

the Detail of these ridiculous Amusements, to tell you how it far’d with

me in the Affair which most demanded my Application.

Soon after my Return to _Paris_, I went to _Versailles_, where I had the

Honor to pay my Duty to the King and the Princes. _Madame_ receiv’d me so

kindly that I thought my self sure of her Protection, and therefore

acquainted her of my Intention to beg an Employment of his Majesty, and

desir’d her that she would be so good as to recommend me. Madame promis’d

me that she would, and was true to her Word; for she not only spoke her

self but also made the Duke of _Orleans_ speak for me to M. _Voisin_, who

was at that time Chancellor and Secretary of War. This Gentleman promis’d

their Royal Highnesses that he would think of a Place for me; but when I

waited upon him, with one of Madame’s Officers, who, by her Order

introduc’d me, that Minister receiv’d me with a Countenance as crabbed as

ever I saw. His Head was invelop’d in a monstrous large Peruke, that

hindered both his Sight and Hearing, which at other times were natural

enough to him. However, in Respect to Madame he heard me, and then said,

that the King had already made one considerable Reduction in his Troops,

and was going to make another; and that therefore he did not see what

Hopes I could have of being employ’d. I was very much dissatisfied with

this Answer, which was so different from the Promise he had made to Madame

and the Duke of _Orleans_. I made a Report to their Royal Highnesses of

what the Minister said to me; upon which the Duke of _Orleans_ told me,

_This signifies nothing, I will speak to him again, and I hope you will

find your Account in it_. He spoke accordingly, but _Voisin_ did nothing

the more nor the less for it. However, as I had a grateful Heart for the

Advances which Madame and the Duke her Son had been so good as to make in

my favor, I continu’d to pay my Duty to them; and they both gave me

Demonstration that they were not Insensible of my constant Attendance. I

was almost every Night at the Duke of _Orleans_’s Couchée. His Court was

then but small, and excepting his Domestics I was sometimes all alone with

him. I was the more amaz’d at the Carriage of the Courtiers to this

Prince, because ’twas natural to think that the Government of the Kingdom

would soon fall into his hands. The Duke of _Berry_ was just dead. The

King was too old to expect he could live much longer, and the Dauphin too

young to take the Management of Affairs upon him for a good while. In

short, every thing promis’d this Prince the Regency of the Kingdom

infallibly, yet scarce any body regarded him as the rising Sun. The

Courtiers Respect for the King made them all stick to his Majesty, and a

Reign so glorious and so long, seem’d to them as if it was never to have

End.

I stay’d at _Paris_ the rest of the year 1714, and some Months of the year

1715. This Winter there was one of the noblest Sights in _Paris_ that

could be, _viz._ The Entry of the _Persian_ Ambassador, and especially the

Audience he had of his Majesty some days after it. But the Ambassador did

not contribute so much to the Lustre of this Shew, as to give us any great

Idea of the _Persian_ Magnificence; and indeed, in my whole Life I never

saw any thing so pitiful; for all his Equipage being out of Order, his

Domestics having scarce Cloaths to their Backs, and almost all of them

ill-looking Fellows, formed a very melancholy Scene. Besides, the Presents

he brought were really not worthy of the Prince that sent them, or of him

that received them. Before this Ambassador made his Entry, he lodg’d at

_Charenton_, to which Place every body went to stare at him as a Prodigy.

The Torrent carried me thither among the rest, and a numerous Company

there was of us. The Interpreter told us, before we went in, that a

Compliment must be made to the Ambassador, and we drew Cuts to determine

who should be the Speaker. The Lot fell upon me. I made but a very short

Speech to him, wherein after having congratulated him upon his Arrival, I

told him, that I hop’d his Stay in _Europe_, and especially in _France_,

would not be disagreeable to him. He thank’d me by his Interpreter, and

bid him tell me, that as he was come to see the greatest King in the

World, next to the Sophy his Master, he should be always satisfy’d, happen

what would to him, when once he had appeared before his Majesty. He made

us sit down, and we ask’d him several Questions concerning his Voyage, the

Court of _Persia_, and the Sophy; but he told us, that he had never been

at _Ispahan_, and never seen the Sophy. During this Conversation he gave

us Coffee and Sweet-meats, and was mighty civil to us.

But upon all Occasions when his Character was to be supported, he was not

near so tractable; for he then took upon him too much State, so that when

the Marshal _de Matignon_, who was to come from the King to carry him to

the Ambassadors House, was to enter his Chamber, he pretended that he was

not obliged to stand up. The Baron _de Breteuil_, the Introductor of the

Ambassadors, represented to him that he could do no less than pay that

Deference to M. _de Matignon_ who came from the King; but he might as well

have reason’d with a Post; and all that he could get from him, was a

Promise, that when the Marshal entered his Chamber he wou’d that Moment

rise and go out all at once. There was another Scene to manage when he

came down Stairs. They proposed to him to ride in the King’s Coach; but he

said, he would do no such thing; that it was a Cage; and that he would

make his Entry on horseback. The Baron _de Breteuil_, therefore, in order

to make him get into the Coach, was under a Necessity of talking smartly

to him; and even to threaten him, that he should make no Entry, nor have

any Audience, if he did not subject himself to the Customs establish’d in

_France_. At length the Ambassador capitulated, they split the Difference,

and he consented to ride one half of the way in the Coach, and the other

on horseback. I never saw such a Multitude of People as I did at this

Entry; the Concourse was really astonishing; for from the first Bar in the

Suburb of _St. Antoine_ to the Ambassadors House, there were Scaffolds all

along on both sides of the way, full of People. The same Croud of

Spectators follow’d him for several days, so that when he went abroad,

either to the Bagnio, or to take the Air, he could scarce go along, there

were such Throngs of People to gaze at him.

The Audience which the King gave him was a very magnificent Scene. _Lewis_

XIV. appeared at it in all the Majesty of a great King; and be the

Audiences of the _Great Mogul_, describ’d to us by _Tavernier_, ever so

brilliant, I can scarce think they are to compare with the Ceremony I am

now speaking of, and whereof I was an Eye-witness, which was performed in

the Great Gallery at _Versailles_. The King’s Throne, which was at one

end, and rais’d very high, was of a Gold Ground, with Flowers and the Arms

of _France_ embroider’d on it. The King was dress’d in a Suit of

Coffee-color’d Velvet, adorn’d with Jewels, to the Value of several

Millions. The young Dauphin was at his Majesty’s Right Hand in a Robe of

Gold Brocade, adorn’d with Diamonds and Pearls. The Duke of _Orleans_ was

on his Left, dress’d in a Suit of blue Velvet, adorn’d with a Gold

_Spanish_ Point, seeded with very beautiful Diamonds and Pearls. The

Princes of the Blood, the legitimated Princes, the Prince of _Dombes_ and

the Count _d’Eu_, both Sons to the Duke of _Maine_, sat in the same Row,

on the Right and Left of the King, all observing the Rank due to their

Birth. All along the Gallery on the Right-Side of the Throne, there were

several Rows of Steps, on which stood the Ladies richly dress’d. The

Duchess of _Berry_ and Madame were next to the Throne, and next to them

stood the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_, who was then at the Court of

_France_ with the Title of the Count of _Lusatia_. That Side of the

Gallery which fronts the Garden was taken up by Noblemen richly

apparell’d, and the Space which serv’d for the Passage, from the Entrance

of the Gallery to the Throne, was cover’d with a magnificent Tapestry, as

were the rest of the Apartments from the Stair-Case of Marble to the

Gallery. In the Courts below, the Regiments of the _French_ and _Swiss_

Guards, newly cloath’d, were rang’d in Order of Battle: And the

Life-Guards, the Musketeers, and all the King’s Houshold Troops were also

drawn up in the same Order. But the Splendor of the Soldiery was very much

lessen’d by a great Quantity of Rain which pour’d down almost all day

long.

The Ambassador with all his Attendance pass’d thro’ all those Troops to

the Gallery; and when he was advanc’d near to the Throne, he there

deliver’d his Credentials to M. _de Torcy_, Minister and Secretary of

State, by whom they were given to the Interpreter, who read them. He

afterwards gave his Majesty the Presents that the Sophy sent him, which

were so inconsiderable, that at first sight one could hardly imagine they

were sent from one of the most powerful Monarchs of _Asia_. The Whole

consisted of Turquoise Stones, a Scymitar garnish’d with precious Stones,

a Box of Balm to which he ascribed wonderful Virtues, and some other

things of no great Value. After the Audience was over, the Ambassador was

regal’d, and then reconducted to the House of the Ambassadors, where he

was defray’d at the Expence of the Court, all the time that he staid at

_Paris_. He was furnish’d at first with the King’s Horses for himself and

his Retinue; but as his Stay was long, and as besides he spoil’d all the

King’s Horses, he was accommodated afterwards with Horses that were hir’d.

Some time after this Audience, the Ambassador went to the Opera, where the

Benches in the Amphitheatre were taken away, to make it more commodious to

hold him and his Retinue. Tho’ there was an incredible number of People of

the first Quality, he seem’d to be under no manner of Constraint, and

smoak’d his Pipe there a good while, with as much Freedom, as if he had

been in his Chamber. The Eagerness of the People to run after him was soon

abated; they began in a short time after his Arrival, to be indifferent

whether they saw him or not; and at length, they were so weary of him,

that every body wish’d publickly that he was gone.