5. The Prince _Maximilian_, marry’d to a Princess of _Hesse-Darmstad_.

6. The Prince _George_, a General Officer in the Service of _Prussia_,

Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, and Knight of the Order of the Black

Eagle.

7. _Wilhelmina-Charlotte_, who was a most accomplish’d Princess, but died

some time ago.

These Princes and Princesses met very often at the Court of the Landgrave

their Father, and then render’d it one of the most splendid in _Germany_,

not only by reason of their Magnificence, but for their affable Deportment

to all Mankind, but especially to Foreigners. I was loth to go from

_Cassel_, but as the Term fix’d for the Emperor’s Coronation drew near, I

could not stay there any longer.

And indeed, I arrived at FRANCFORT but a few Hours before the Emperor. The

Electors and Ambassadors went out of Town and met his Imperial Majesty, as

did also the Magistrates with the Burgo-Master, and complimented him under

a Tent erected there for that purpose. When the Compliments were ended his

Majesty went again into his Coach, as did the Electors and Ambassadors

into theirs, and they enter’d the City while the Cannon fir’d and the

People shouted, _Long live the Emperor Charles_ VI. His Imperial Majesty

alighted at the Church of St. _Bartholomew_. The Elector-Palatine who was

so indispos’d that he could not go out to meet his Majesty, receiv’d him

at the Door of the Church, as did also the Bishop of _Neustadt_ at the

Head of the Chapter; and his Majesty was conducted to a Throne set up for

him on the Right-side of the Altar, by the Electors. The Elector-Palatine

walk’d before, and the two other Electors supported the Emperor. When he

was seated on his Throne, the Bishop tun’d the _Te Deum_, and gave the

Benediction. The Emperor was afterwards conducted with the same

Ceremonies to his Palace, which was hung with Mourning. The Electors and

Ambassadors having accompany’d his Imperial Majesty to his Closet, retir’d

to their respective Habitations. The next and following Days the Emperor

receiv’d the Visits of the Electors, the Ambassadors, and the Electoress

Palatine, which he return’d.

When the 22d of _December_, the Day fix’d for the Coronation, was arriv’d,

all the Burghers and the Garison were drawn up under Arms all the way from

the Imperial Palace to the Church. The Procession was begun by the Footmen

and Pages belonging to the Ambassadors, to the Elector-Palatine and to the

Emperor, and they were follow’d by the Courtiers of the Elector and of the

Emperor, and by Persons of Quality that were in the Ambassadors Retinue.

After them there appear’d six Heralds at Arms, the first of which carry’d

a single Eagle, the second a double Cross, the third a Lion, and the three

others Spread-Eagles, the whole after the manner of the _Roman_ Ensigns.

After the Heralds, came the Ambassadors, the Vicars of the Electors, and

the Elector-Palatine, bearing the _Imperialia_ or Ornaments of the Empire;

and immediately after them the Emperor appear’d, under a stately Canopy.

His Habit was like that of the Secular Electors, that is to say, a Robe of

Crimson-Velvet turn’d up with Ermin: He had on his Head a Crown enrich’d

with Diamonds, which was the Crown of his Family, and he rode a very fine

_Spanish_ Horse, the Equipage of which was truly magnificent. Behind the

Emperor came the principal Officers of his Houshold, and the Captain of

the Guards at the Head of his Company; and the Elector-Palatine’s

Life-Guards closed the March.

When the Emperor arrived at the Church, the Electors of _Mentz_ and

_Triers_ in their Pontificalibus went and receiv’d him at the Door, from

whence they conducted him to his Seat in the Choir over-against the High

Altar. There his Imperial Majesty heard the Mass, after which he was

conducted to the Town-House almost in the same Order as was observ’d at

his coming to Church, with this Difference, that the Emperor was deck’d

with the Ornaments of the Empire, which consist of the Crown, the Mantle,

and _Charlemain_’s Sword. His Majesty was now on foot between the two

Ecclesiastical Electors, who accompany’d him, as did the Elector-Palatine,

and the Vicars and Ambassadors of the absent Electors to the Great Hall of

the Town-House, where the Imperial Feast was prepar’d. The Emperor plac’d

himself at one of the Windows looking into the great Square, on purpose to

be seen by the People; of whom there was such a Multitude, that not only

the Square but the Windows and Roofs of the Houses were cover’d with them.

From this Window his Majesty saw the Officers of the Empire perform their

Functions. The Count _de Papenheim_ the Elector of _Saxony_’s Vicar, as

Grand Marshal of the Empire, was the first that began the Ceremony. He was

mounted on a very fine Horse, which he rode full gallop to a Heap of Oats

in one Corner of the Square, wherewith he fill’d a Measure of Silver,

after which he return’d to the Middle of the Square, where he threw both

the Oats and the Measure among the Populace, and then he went to the

Banquetting-Room.

The Elector-Palatine appear’d next, encompass’d with his Guards, and

preceded by his Courtiers. He went on horseback to a Kitchen built for the

purpose in the great Square, where he found a whole Ox roasting on a Spit,

of which he cut off a Slice, and putting it into a Gold Dish he carry’d it

to the Emperor’s Table.

The Count _de Zinzendorf_, Vicar to the Elector of _Hanover_ as Treasurer

of the Empire, came next. He was on horseback attended by the Emperor’s

Guards, and taking a compass round the Square he scatter’d Medals of Gold

and Silver among the Populace, which he took out of a couple of Bags of

Cloth that were ty’d to his Saddle-Bow. These Medals represented on one

side the Globe of the Earth encompass’d with Clouds, and this _Latin_

Inscription, _Constantiâ & Fortitudine_. On the other side was this

Legend, _Carolus, Hispaniarum, Hung. & Bohem. Rex. A. A. Electus in Regem

Roman. coronat. Francof. 22 Decemb. 1711_. Over which there was an

Imperial Crown like to that of _Charlemain_.

The Count _de Dhona_ Ambassador from the King as Elector of _Brandenburg_,

perform’d the Function of Great Chamberlain of the Empire in the absence

of the Prince of _Hohenzollern_ the Elector’s Vicar, who was at that time

indispos’d. The Count preceded by all his Livery, and accompany’d by some

of the Emperor’s Guards, rode on horseback towards the middle of the

Square, where a Table was erected on which there was a Basin and Ewer of

Silver gilt full of Water, with a Napkin that had been dipp’d in it, all

which he took and carry’d into the Banquetting-Room, and gave to the

Emperor to wash.

Afterwards the Count _de Kinski_, Ambassador of his Imperial Majesty as

King of _Bohemia_, officiated for the Person whom he represented, as Great

Cup-Bearer of the Empire: For this purpose he took a Goblet of Gold and

fetch’d Wine at a Fountain erected in the middle of the Square

representing the Imperial Eagle; which done, the Count went into the

Banquetting-Room, and gave it to the Emperor to drink.

Thus did the Officers of the Empire acquit themselves of their several

Functions: After this the Emperor plac’d himself alone at a Table upon a

rais’d Floor, cover’d with red Cloth; and over it there was a Canopy of

Gold Brocade. When the Emperor was seated the Electors plac’d themselves

at Tables that were prepar’d for them on both sides of the Hall, on Floors

that were a Step lower than the Emperor’s. Over each Table there was a

Canopy of Crimson-Velvet inrich’d with Gold, and they had each an

Arm-Chair of the same. On the Right-side of each Table there was a

magnificent Beaufet. The three Electors sate alone at their several

Tables, and the Ambassadors of the absent Electors, after having stood a

little while behind the Chairs plac’d for their respective Masters, went

into another Room. On the following Days the Electors din’d with the

Emperor, and his Majesty went also and din’d with the Electors. At length,

after the Emperor had perform’d all the Ceremonies that are observ’d at

Coronations, he set out from _Francfort_ for his Hereditary Dominions,

where he was impatiently expected by his Subjects.

Just as I was ready to depart from _Francfort_ I receiv’d the melancholy

News of the Death of the King’s Brother the Margrave _Philip_, to whom I

was very much attached, and was therefore mightily afflicted for the Loss

of him. The King’s Ambassadors, to avoid the Expence of putting their

Equipage in Mourning, kept his Death secret, so that they did not notify

it to his Imperial Majesty till the Day before he went.

I set out from _Francfort_ much about the same time as the Emperor did,

and pass’d through _Cassel_, _Hanover_, and _Dusseldorff_. I lik’d

_Francfort_ so well before, that it tempted me to return to it; and

besides, that was the Place to which a Passport was to be directed that I

had sent for from _France_, in order to carry me to _Paris_. As soon as I

receiv’d it I traveled thro’ _Minden_, which I have already had the Honor

to mention to you; and from thence, after having pass’d through _Bilefeld_

a little Town in the County of _Ravensberg_, I arriv’d at MUNSTER.

This, which was formerly an Imperial City, is now the See of a Bishop,

Prince of the Empire, and Lord of the Town and its Jurisdiction. It stands

in _Westphalia_ in a large Plain, and on a little River which renders it

very strong. It was the Birth-place of the famous _Muntzer_, the Head of

the Anabaptists, a Sect of Heretics, who grew so powerful that they

undertook to make themselves Masters of the City, and to chuse themselves

a King; and about the End of the sixteenth Century, they accordingly chose

for their Sovereign one _John of Leyden_, a Taylor, infamous for the

Cruelties and Outrages which he committed. But Heaven deliver’d the City

from such a Scourge; for at length after some Resistance it was reduc’d,

and _John of Leyden_ was put to death by the Hangman. The City revolted

again afterwards; but at last the Bishop humbled it in 1661, and since

that time it has always been subject to the Bishops its Sovereigns. ’Twas

at _Munster_ that was held the famous Assembly of _Westphalia_, which

establish’d the Fortune of many Sovereigns, and the Religion of their

Subjects. The Peace which was there sign’d serves also as a Basis for all

the Treaties that are made at this time. The Treaty of _Munster_ imported

in substance, “That _Maximilian_ Duke of _Bavaria_ should remain in

Possession of the Electorate of the Counts Palatine, which had been given

him by the Emperor _Ferdinand_ II: That _Charles Lewis_ Count Palatine

should be restor’d to his Principality, and be created an eighth Elector

for himself and his Descendants. That the Protestants should have their

Churches and the free Exercise of their Religion, on the Footing as it was

in 1624; and that they should retain the Church-Revenues, of which they

had been possess’d ever since the first of _January_, that Year: That

_Sweden_ should have Hither-_Pomerania_, a Part of the other _Pomerania_,

the Island and Principality of _Rugen_, the Town and Port of _Wismar_,

Archbishopric of _Bremen_, and the Bishopric of _Verden_, with the Title

of a Duchy: That the Elector of _Brandenburg_ should have the Bishoprics

of _Halberstadt_, _Minden_ and _Camin_, with the Farther-_Pomerania_: That

_France_ should have the intire Sovereignty of _Metz_, _Toul_, and

_Verdun_, and the Dependencies thereof, that of _Pignerol_ and _Brisac_,

the Landgraviate of Upper and Lower _Alsace_, _&c._ That the Confederates

should restore the Towns they had taken, and disband their Troops; and

that the seven Circles of the Empire should furnish five Millions of

Rixdollars for the Pay of the _Swedish_ Soldiers.” Such were the

Conditions of this Peace, which was not very advantageous to the Catholic

Religion.

The Bishop who had the See of _Munster_ while I was there, was of the

Family of _Metternich_, and at the same time Bishop of _Paderborn_. I did

not stay long in that City, but proceeded thro’ _Dusseldorff_, where I

found the whole Court return’d from _Francfort_.

From thence I set out for COLOGNE[35], where M. _Happe_ who was appointed

by the King to levy the Contributions which _Luxembourg_ and other

neighbouring Countries were oblig’d to pay, entertain’d me very civilly,

gave me an Apartment at his House, and made me exceeding welcome.

I stay’d some time in this City, which is a very flourishing Town by

reason of its convenient Situation for the Trade of their Merchants, who

have great Vessels constantly going up and down the _Rhine_, to

_Francfort_ and _Holland_. ’Tis a pretty large City, but always very dirty

and ill pav’d, and the Houses are for most part very old, and consequently

dark and incommodious. The City is governed by a Senate, which does not

depend on the Elector, whose Power is very much limited, he having no

Authority but in Criminal Affairs; yet he is allow’d Sovereign Command for

three Days, after which if he stays at _Cologne_ he is no more regarded

than a private Gentleman. This is the reason that the Prince commonly

resides at _Bonn_, and that he only goes to _Cologne_ on the Eves of the

Grand Festivals, to officiate there. Nevertheless the City is oblig’d to

pay Homage to the Elector, and to swear Fidelity to him, on Condition that

he preserve them in the Enjoyment of their Privileges; which is a

Condition that the Elector can scarce violate were he ever so much

inclin’d to it, because ’tis the City that maintains the Garison, and is

Mistress of the Arsenal.

The Catholic is the only Religion that is allow’d to be exercised at

_Cologne_. Nor are Protestants admitted into the Senate, or any Employment

in the City, but go to preach at _Mulheim_, a little Town in the Country

of _Berg_, which belongs to the Elector-Palatine.

I had not the Honor of seeing the Elector, who by reason of the

Misfortunes he had suffer’d in the late Wars, was oblig’d at that time to

live in _France_. His Name was _Joseph-Clement_ of _Bavaria_. He possess’d

the Bishoprics of _Hildesheim_ and _Liege_, together with the

Archbishopric of _Cologne_. He died the 12th of _November_ 1723, after

having caus’d his Nephew the Duke _Clement_ of _Bavaria_, Bishop of

_Munster_ and _Paderborn_ to be chose Co-adjutor of _Cologne_.

The Archbishops of _Cologne_ are Great Chancellors of the Empire in

_Italy_, but don’t officiate as such; for most of the Princes of _Italy_

pretend to be independent of the Empire, or call themselves perpetual

Vicars thereof; and in this Quality they perform what the Emperor might do

within the Extent of their Jurisdictions. This however extends only to

common Cases, for in extraordinary ones they are oblig’d to have recourse

to the Imperial Court. Then ’tis the Elector of _Mentz_ alone who

officiates in quality of Chancellor of _Germany_; and ’tis he that has the

Custody of the Archives and Titles which relate to _Italy_.

The Electors of _Cologne_ for a long time contested with those of _Mentz_

the Right of consecrating the Emperors, tho’ the latter pretend this Honor

belongs to them, as Primates of _Germany_. But the Differences between

those Princes have been regulated; and they have agreed that either of

them, in whose Diocese the Emperor happens to be crown’d, should

consecrate him; and that if the Coronation should be perform’d in neither

of their Dioceses, then they should take it by turns. Nevertheless after

this Accommodation the Elector of _Cologne_ consecrated the Emperor

_Leopold_ in 1658, at _Francfort_ a City in the Diocese of _Mentz_; but it

was done with the Consent of the Elector of _Mentz_, and without making it

a Precedent for the future.

I have observ’d, that at _Cologne_ most of the public Buildings are either

Churches or Convents. The Metropolitan Church would be one of the most

magnificent in all _Germany_, were it finish’d. Among other stately Tombs

here is that of the _Three Kings_ who came to worship the Savior of the

World, whose Bodies they say were remov’d from _Constantinople_ to

_Milan_, and from thence brought hither. All the People have a very great

Veneration for these Reliques.

Except the Churches and the Monasteries one sees no public Structures, nor

any House fine enough to raise a Stranger’s Admiration; here is still to

be seen the House where Death put an end to the Misfortunes of _Mary de

Medicis_, Queen of _France_, who came to _Cologne_ for Refuge from the

Persecution of Cardinal _Richelieu_. This Cardinal, tho’ he was oblig’d to

that Princess for his prodigious Wealth, was not content with having

forc’d her to quit the Kingdom of _France_, but abridg’d her even of the

Necessaries of Life; insomuch that ’twas a hard matter for her to find a

Butcher that would undertake to serve the Table of that unfortunate

Princess with Meat. She died the 3d of _July_, 1643.

After I had amused my self with seeing what was to be seen in the City of

_Cologne_, I long’d so much to see that famous City _Paris_, that I set

out thither very soon. I forgot to tell you that the Out-works of

_Cologne_, especially the Ramparts are very agreeable. There are noble

Rows of Elms which serve for Walks, and terminate in a Kay that runs along

the _Rhine_, and would be a very fine one, if it was not disfigur’d by a

Half-moon, which has been cut out to cover the Gate of the _Rhine_, and to

secure the Passage of the Flying-Bridge.

When I set out from _Cologne_ I went down the _Rhine_ and the _Vahal_, as

far as _Dort_, and from thence (without once going ashore) to ANTWERP,

which City I take to be the most beautiful of all the _Netherlands_. It

makes a part of _Austrian Brabant_, and is the Capital of the Marquisate

of the Holy Empire. ’Tis situate in a great Plain on the Right-side of the

_Schelde_, at a Place where that River separates the Duchy of _Brabant_

from the County of _Flanders_. It contains a number of Churches built in a

very good Taste, and a great many very noble public Edifices. The Church

of our Lady, which is the Cathedral, is a Work that has nothing like it

except it be in _Italy_. ’Tis above 500 Feet in length, 240 in breadth,

and 340 in height. It contains Sixty-six Chapels, adorn’d with Marble

Columns, all different, and with fine Paintings. The Tower which serves

for the Steeple is very lofty and perfectly beautiful.

The most magnificent of the Churches, next to the Cathedral, was that of

the _Jesuits_, which was consum’d by Lightning the 18th of _July_, 1718.

The Pavement was of Marble, in Compartiments. There were two low Isles,

one above the other, which were supported by fifty-six Marble Pillars. The

four Arches were clos’d with thirty-eight great Pictures in gilt Frames,

and the Walls in which there were forty Windows were lin’d with Marble.

The great Roof was of very fine carv’d Work, charg’d with a small Dome,

very lightsome and very well made. As to the High Altar it would require

an able Connoisseur to give such a Description of it as the Beauty of the

Workmanship requires: For my own part all I can say of it is, that ’twas

all over Marble, Jasper, Porphyry, and Gold. The Picture represented the

Assumption of the Virgin _Mary_, and was a complete Piece. Our Lady’s

Chapel, which was a part of the same Church, was as rich as the rest of

the Building, the Sides and the Roof of it being fac’d with Marble, and

adorn’d with six Statues of Alabaster. Besides this Chapel there were

fifty others, all of the utmost Magnificence. The Great Gate of the

Church, and the _Jesuits_ College adjoining to it, were answerable to the

Beauty of the Structure. All this stately Building was entirely destroy’d;

and what is most to be pitied, the Pictures of the famous _Rubens_, of

which this Church was full, were destroy’d with it; a Loss the more

considerable, because ’tis not to be repair’d; for as to the rest, they

are preparing to build a Church as magnificent as the former.

There are several other fine Edifices at _Antwerp_, of which I don’t

undertake the Description. I shall only mention a Word or two of the

Town-House and the Exchange. The former stands in a great Square,

encompass’d with fine Houses. Tho’ the Building is quite in the _Gothic_

Taste, yet ’tis a noble Monument of the Wealth of those who founded it.

The Exchange is worth seeing, on account of the Galleries round the

Square, in which the Merchants assemble as they do at _Amsterdam_, from 12

o’clock till half an hour past 1.

The Citadel or Castle of _Antwerp_ was formerly reckon’d one of the

strongest and most regular Citadels in _Europe_; but the Works which

_Lewis_ XIV. caus’d to be made in the _Netherlands_, and upon all the

Frontiers of the Kingdom, have very much sunk the Reputation of the

ancient Fortifications. ’Twas in the Square of this Castle, which was

built by Order of the Duke of _Alva_, that he caus’d that famous Statue of

Brass to be erected, which would have been an eternal Monument of his

Pride and Cruelty, if it had not been pull’d down and broke to pieces by

the Populace, as soon as the Duke quitted the _Netherlands_ by Order of

his Master K. _Philip_ II. ’Tis said that while he commanded in this

Country, he caus’d above 18000 Persons to be executed by the common

Hangman.

Next to the Citadel, I cannot help giving you some Account of the Harbor,

which is very beautiful and commodious. Here is a very large Square,

where, by the Help of a certain Machine, they easily unload all the Goods.

Another good Conveniency, and what contributes to render this a very

trading City, is, that besides the River there are eight great Canals, by

which Ships may enter into the City. Yet notwithstanding all these

Conveniencies, the Trade of _Antwerp_, tho’ considerable, is not near so

flourishing now, as it was before the Civil Wars, and the new Opinions in

Affairs of Religion. ’Tis even astonishing how this City could hold up its

Head again after the Calamities it suffer’d, even from its own Sovereign,

whose Troops in 1576, burnt above 600 Houses in _Antwerp_; and while the

unfortunate Inhabitants were running, as it were, into the midst of the

Flames, to rescue their best Effects, the _Spaniards_ fell upon ’em, and

kill’d and drown’d near 10000. This terrible Fire was the total Ruin of

_Antwerp_; the Town-House and several noble Palaces were reduc’d to Ashes;

and the immense Riches which they contain’d were carry’d off by

Plunderers, who pillag’d for three Days, during which they committed all

manner of Outrages. Nevertheless, this unhappy City, which had like to

have been buried for ever under its own Ashes, was rais’d to Life again

some time after by the Confederates, who remain’d, as it were, its

Sovereigns, till 1585, when the Prince of _Parma_ took it from them, after

a Siege that lasted near twelve Months, and was one of the most famous

Sieges that had ever been known before, as well upon account of the few

Troops the Duke of _Parma_ had to carry it on, which in all were but 1200

Men, as for that famous Dyke by which he shut up the Harbor, and for the

Bridge which he laid over the _Scheld_.

_Antwerp_ remain’d under the Dominion of the House of _Austria_ from that

Time to the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, when it was oblig’d to

receive a _French_ Garison in the Name of _Philip_ V. whom the Elector of

_Bavaria_, Governor of the _Netherlands_, own’d for King of _Spain_. But

by the Battle of _Ramellies_, _Antwerp_ and a part of the _Netherlands_

were reduc’d under the Dominion of the Emperor. During the War that was

enter’d into for the _Spanish_ Monarchy, a Battle was fought in the

Neighbourhood of _Antwerp_, near the Village of _Ekeren_, for which both

Parties sung _Te Deum_.

Having set out from _Antwerp_ to pursue my Journey to _Paris_, I pass’d

thro’ MECHLIN[36], which is a very fine City, and the See of an

Archbishop, whose Revenue is very considerable. The Metropolitan Church is

dedicated to St. _Rambaut_. This City is the Seat of a Great Royal

Council, which is, as it were, the Parliament of the Country, and was

establish’d by _Charles_ Duke of _Burgundy_ in 1473. _Mechlin_ is famous

for the Lace made there, which is finer and better than any that is made

in the other Towns of the _Netherlands_.

From _Mechlin_ I went to BRUSSELS[37], the Capital of the Duchy of

_Brabant_. This City stands on the little River _Senna_, that falls into

the _Scheld_ by the Canal of _Vilvorde_, and divides the lower Town by

several Canals that terminate in the said Canal of _Vilvorde_, which is

very convenient for their Trade, whereof this City has a considerable

Share. There are several Manufactures at _Brussels_, of which that of

_Devos_ for Tapistry is worth seeing; that skilful Operator having carried

his Art to the utmost degree of Perfection that the Curious can desire.

The common People of _Brussels_ are more polite than in any other City of

the _Netherlands_; for most of the Nobility of the Country come hither

commonly to pass the Winter; and there are few Families of Note that have

not a House here.

The Royal Palace is very large, and the Apartments beautiful, tho’ very

old. This Palace stands high above the City, being situate upon a Hill,

from whence there is a noble Prospect, which is diversify’d by the

Gardens, and the Park that joins to the Palace, wherein there are several

very pleasant Walks, adorn’d with fine Grottos and Fountains.

The Town-house is another very fine Building. It stands in a Square,

encompass’d with Grand Houses, built after _Brussels_ was bombarded by the

_French_, under the Command of the Marshal _de Villeroy_, when this

Quarter of the Town in particular suffer’d very great Damage; but it is

since become the more agreeable by the magnificent Houses built where the

old ones stood.

I left _Brussels_ to go to Mons the Capital City of _Hainault_, which

stands upon a Hill, on the Banks of the little River of _Trouil_, and is

one of the strongest Places in the Low-Countries. _Lewis_ XIV. besieg’d it

in Person, and took it in 1691. It was restor’d to _Spain_ by the Peace of

_Ryswic_, but afterwards at the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, it

return’d as well as all the Low-Countries under the Dominion of _France_.

But at length after the Battle of _Malplaquet_, it became subject to the

House of _Austria_. In this City there’s a famous Abbey of Nuns, which is

a very honorable Retreat for young Women of Quality, who are Orphans, or

don’t care to be dependant on their Parents. They wear the Habit of Nuns

in the Morning, to be present at the Office; but in the Afternoon they

dress like Gentlewomen; and they make no Vow.

From _Mons_ I went to VALENCIENNES[38], which City is a part of the

Province of _Hainault_, and the chief Town of _French Flanders_. Its

beautiful Fortifications display the same Magnificence that was always

observ’d in all the Works erected in the Reign of _Lewis_ XIV. That

Monarch besieg’d _Valenciennes_ in Person, in the Year 1677; and after

having taken it by Storm, caus’d a strong Citadel to be erected in it at

the Expence of the Inhabitants. This City had been besieg’d by the

Marshals _Turenne_ and _La Ferte_ in the Year 1656; but Don _John_ of

_Austria_, the Governor of the _Netherlands_, accompanied by the Prince of

_Condé_, who at that time, bore Arms against the King, made them raise the

Siege; and in this Expedition the Marshal _de la Ferte_ was taken

Prisoner.

The late Elector of _Cologne_ liv’d at _Valenciennes_ when I was there,

the Casualties of the War having oblig’d him to quit his own Dominions. I

was introduc’d to that Prince by the Prince _de Tingri_, when his

Electoral Highness gave me a favorable Reception, and told me that he knew

my Father; but I plainly perceiv’d by what he said, that this Prince would

have been as glad to be in his City of _Bonn_, as in a Town of _France_.

I stay’d at _Valenciennes_ three Days, after which I set out for

CAMBRAY[39]. This City is the Capital of the _Cambresis_, and one of the

strongest Places in _Europe_. They say its Original is very ancient; for

some Authors pretend, that _Camber_ King of the _Sicambri_ was the Founder

of it. The Kings of _France_ conquer’d it, and were Masters of it a long

while. After the Death of _Charles_ the _Bald_, it was for some time a

Bone of Contention between the Emperor, the King of _France_, and the

Earls of _Flanders_; but the latter seiz’d it, and the Emperors afterwards

declar’d it a free City of the Empire. _Francis_ I. King of _France_

granted it a Neutrality; but the Emperor _Charles_ V. made himself Master

of it; and afterwards during the Revolutions of the _Netherlands_, it fell

under the Dominion of the Duke _d’Alençon_, Brother to _Henry_ III. who

restor’d it to the _French_ by a Treaty, which he concluded with _John de

Montluc_, whom King _Henry_ IV. afterwards made Prince of _Cambray_. Not

long after this, the _Spaniards_ took it by surprize, and kept it till

1677, when Lewis XIV. took it, and it has remain’d ever since in the

Possession of _France_, which Crown has considerably augmented its

Fortifications.

_Cambray_ has the Title of an Archbishopric, which was erected in 1559, by

Pope _Paul_ II. at the Request of _Philip_ II. King of _Spain_. The

Suffragans granted to this Metropolitan were the Bishoprics of _Arras_,

_Tournay_, _St. Omer_ and _Namur_, which were anciently Suffragan Sees to

the Church of _Rheims_. The Archbishop takes the Title of _Duke of_

Cambray, _Count of the_ Cambresis, _and Prince of the Holy Empire_. He

that was the Archbishop while I was there, was the illustrious M. _de

Fenelon_, a Prelate as venerable for his Piety, as for the Delicacy of his

Pen. The present Archbishop is the natural Son of the late Duke of

_Orleans_ the Regent, and was formerly Bishop and Duke of _Laon_. This

Prelate fully answers the vast Hopes that were conceiv’d, from his good

Qualities in his Non-age. His Predecessor in this Dignity was the famous

Cardinal _Dubois_, the Minister of _France_.

I forgot to tell you, that the City of _Cambray_ is also of great Note for

the famous League that was concluded between the Pope, the Emperor

_Maximilian_, _Lewis_ XII. King of _France_, and _Ferdinand_ King of

_Arragon_, against the Republic of _Venice_.

From _Cambray_ I went to ST. QUINTIN, which City is the Capital of the

_Vermandois_, and is of Note for the famous Battle of _St. Quintin_,

call’d also the Battle of St. _Lawrence_, because ’twas fought on the 10th

of _August_, in 1557. After the Truce was broke between _Henry_ II. King

of _France_, and _Philip_ II. King of _Spain_, _Philibert-Emanuel_ Duke of

_Savoy_, who was Governor of the _Netherlands_, besieg’d the City of _St.

Quintin_, which was destitute of Troops, and moreover in a very bad

Condition. The Admiral _Coligni_ got into it with some Forces, which gave

Time to the Constable _de Montmorency_ to pass the _Somme_ with the

_French_ Army under his Command, and throw some Succours into the Town.

This was executed indeed, but with so much Precipitation, that the Men who

entered it were scarce five hundred in number. The Constable perceiving

the Approach of the _Spaniards_, and his Troops being moreover incumber’d

with their Equipage, endeavored to make his Retreat; but the Duke taking

advantage of his Incumbrance, surpriz’d him between the Villages of

_Essigny_ and _Rizerolles_, and charg’d him home before he had Time to put

his Men into Order of Battle; and the Constable and his Son were taken

Prisoners, with a great many Persons of Distinction. The Number of the

Slain was even greater than that of the Prisoners; and among the former

was _John_ of _Bourbon_, Duke of _Anguien_, a Prince of the Blood Royal,

and above 600 Gentlemen. The _Spaniards_ Loss did not exceed 500 Men.

_Philip_ II. in acknowledgment for this Victory, made that extraordinary

Vow, which he afterwards perform’d, to build the Monastery of St.

_Lawrence_ at the _Escurial_; upon which a certain Ambassador of _France_,

when he was shew’d that stately Edifice, said, _That +Philip+ must needs

be terribly afraid when he made so considerable a Vow_. After the Battle,

_St. Quintin_ surrender’d to the _Spaniards_, who kept it till the Treaty

of _Chateau-Cambresis_, in 1559.

From _St. Quintin_ I went to COMPIEGNE, a City in the Diocese of

_Soissons_, which is situate on the West side of the _Oyse_ and the

_Aisne_. The famous Maid of _Orleans_ ow’d the Loss of her Liberty to this

City. For that illustrious Heroine going to the Relief of _Compiegne_,

which the _English_ had resolv’d to besiege, had the Misfortune to fall

into their hands, and was carried Prisoner to _Roan_, where they burnt her

for a Witch. ’Twas at the Castle of _Compiegne_ that the Cardinal _de

Richlieu_ kept the Queen _Mary de Medicis_ a Prisoner, till that Princess

found Means to escape, and to retire to _Flanders_. I have had the Honor

already to tell you, that this unfortunate Queen died at _Cologn_.

This same Castle was also for some time the Residence of the Elector of

_Bavaria_, after he was ejected out of his Dominions by the victorious

Arms of the Emperor. The Court his Electoral Highness kept here was so

splendid, that it did not look like the Court of a Refugee Prince.

Near _Compiegne_ there’s a very large Forest, which renders the

Neighbourhood of this City very pleasant. There are fine Roads cut out in

this Forest, which render it very convenient for Hunting.

The only considerable Place from _Compiegne_ to _Paris_ is SENLIS; and

that purely on account of its being the See of a Bishop: for setting aside

its Situation, which is very agreeable, by reason of the Neighbourhood of

the beautiful Forest of _Chantilly_, _Senlis_ is a very trifling Place.

Near this City is the Abbey of our _Lady of Victory_, which _Philip

Augustus_ caus’d to be built as an Acknowledgment for the Victory he won

in Person at _Bouvines_, over the Emperor _Otho_ IV. and his Confederates,

on _Sunday July_ 27th, 1215; upon which very Day, his Son too won another

Battle over the _English_ in _Anjou_. They say that the two Couriers that

were carrying the News of each of the Victories, from the one Army to the

other, met at the very Place where now stands the Church of this Abbey.

Betwixt _Senlis_ and _Paris_ there stands the little Town of St. DENYS,

famous for the magnificent Abbey which gives Name to it. In this Church

are the Tombs of the Kings and Princes of _France_, whose Mausoleums are

of rich Workmanship. Here is a Treasure also which contains a great Number

of very curious Pieces. The Abbey of St. _Denys_ has also given its Name

to the great Plain in which it stands. ’Twas in this Plain that the famous

Battle was fought between the Catholics and Hugonots, in the Reign of

_Charles_ IX. when the Constable _Montmorency_, who at the Age of 83,

commanded the Catholics, was wounded, but gain’d the Victory over the

Heretics.

At my leaving _St. Denys_, I had at length the pleasure of seeing what I

had a long time passionately wish’d for, I mean the famous City of

PARIS[40], where I arriv’d about the beginning of the Year 1712. I make no

scruple to call it the chief City of the World, as it is the Capital of

the chief Kingdom in Christendom. The Extent of its Circumference, the

Beauty of its Buildings, the Multitude of its Inhabitants, the continual

Arrival and the Residence of Foreigners there, the Variety and Plenty of

Commodities of all sorts, render it the finest City in the World; and on

those Accounts ’tis justly reckon’d as the Ornament, the Soul and the

Strength of the _French_ Empire. I was not willing however to make any

stay here at first, because of my Impatience to see the famous Castle of

VERSAILLES, so much talk’d of at all Foreign Courts.

I had entertain’d so grand an Idea of this Palace, and was so fully

persuaded of its being all over Gold and Azure, that at the first Sight

the Beauty of it did not strike me. The Entrance to _Versailles_, as one

comes from _Paris_, does not set it off at all, tho’ the Avenue that leads

to it is one of the most magnificent; but when one comes up to the Castle,

and turns about towards this Grand Avenue, the two sumptuous Stables on

the sides of it form a Prospect, which gives a sublime Idea of the Master

of those stately Piles of Building. The Front of the Castle, which looks

towards the Gardens is the finest; and on that Side is the superb Gallery,

which is the Admiration of all Foreigners. What most surpriz’d me at

_Versailles_ is the Inside of the Castle, which if one examines it well,

looks like several Castles join’d together. The Royal Family, which was

still pretty numerous, was lodg’d there very much at their Ease, each

having their Guard-Chamber, an Anti-Chamber, a Presence-Chamber, a

Bed-Chamber, and Great Closet and Wardrobes. The chief Officers and Ladies

attending the Princesses were also commodiously lodg’d. The greatest part

of the Lords of the Court had Lodgings too here, which were indeed pretty

much straiten’d for want of room, but very convenient. In short, I was

assur’d, that when _Lewis_ XIV. was at _Versailles_, about 20,000 Persons

lay every Night in the Body of this Castle, and the Buildings in the Verge

of it, the Apartments and other Lodgings being so well laid out, that all

this great Multitude did not croud one another.

The finest Pieces in the Inside of the Castle are the Gallery and the

Saloons that join to it. The Walls are lin’d with Marble. Every Place

shines with the Works of the greatest Masters in Gold and Brass, and with

noble Pier-Glasses. I have heard say, that before the War for the

_Spanish_ Succession, all the Tables, Chandeliers and Stands, which are

now of Marble and gilt Frames, were of Massy Silver; but the King

converted them into Money to help defray the vast Expences of the Wars he

was then engaged in. The Cieling of the Gallery represents in several

Pictures the principal Actions of _Lewis_ the XIVth’s Life; and is also

adorn’d with Cartridges and Gildings, which are remarkable both for their

Richness and their Elegance.

The Chapel is perfectly answerable to the Magnificence of the Inside of

the Castle. The Critics indeed think ’tis too lofty for its Bigness; and

without pretending to much Skill in Architecture, of which what I now say

is perhaps a Proof, I should readily subscribe to their Opinion. Indeed a

Man ought to be plac’d in the Pew from whence the King hears Mass, to have

a just View of the fine Paintings with which the Cieling is enrich’d; and

than which there’s nothing to be seen that is finer or better fancy’d. The

principal Picture represents God the Father in all his Glory, as fully as

Human Weakness can conceive it. This is a piece of Painting I am never

weary of admiring; and I found some new Pleasure every time I look’d on

it. The Cieling is supported by noble Pillars of a white Stone, as

beautiful as Marble, which form a Gallery that runs round the Chapel, of

an equal height all along with the King’s Pew, and the Ballisters are of

yellow Copper and Marble. When one looks down from the Pew, the Chapel

seems too low, and the Great Altar not high enough. Opposite to the King’s

Pew, and exactly over the High Altar, there’s an Organ-Loft of a very good

Contrivance, where the King’s Music sits. ’Tis a very good Band; and those

who are nice Judges always admire the first Touch they give to their

Instruments, the Moment that the King enters the Chapel to hear Mass.

I own to you, _Madame_, that I thought it one of the finest Sights in the

World, to see _Lewis_ XIV. enter the Chapel in all his Grandeur, attended

by the Cardinals and the Lords of his Court. The Life-Guards and the

Hundred _Swiss_ took up the Gallery and the Bottom of the Chapel, and the

Drums beat, and the _Swiss_ Fifes play’d till his Majesty was seated. On

Communion or Sermon Days the King went down into the Chapel, and then the

Pavement, which is of very fine Marble, was cover’d all over with noble

Tapestry. When the King receiv’d the Sacrament, a Praying-Desk was set for

him over-against the High Altar, and then the Hundred _Swissers_ were

rang’d in two Rows, and the Courtiers encompass’d his Majesty. During the

Sermon the King’s Chair of State was plac’d over-against the Pulpit, and

the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family and Blood were seated in

Folding Chairs, on both sides of the King in the same Line. But the

Princes and Princesses very seldom assisted at the King’s Mass; and when

they did, they kneel’d leaning on the same Ballustrade that the King did,

but quite off of his Carpet.

The Gardens of _Versailles_ may be rank’d among the modern Wonders; and I

don’t believe that the so much boasted Gardens of the superb _Semiramis_

were finer. For really, considering the Statues, Vases and Water-works of

Marble and Brass, one wou’d think Pains had been taken to ransac _Greece_

and _Rome_ it self, both ancient and modern, for its most wonderful

Productions on purpose to bring them to this charming Place. These Gardens

were plann’d by the famous _Le Nautre_. At the end of the Great Walk which

fronts the Castle there’s a very spacious Canal. It forms a Cross to a

certain Distance, one side of which leads to the _Menagerie_, and the

other to _Trianon_. The _Menagerie_ is a very little House with only a few

Rooms, from whence the King may see the rarest Animals of all sorts, which

are kept there. As for _Trianon_ and its Gardens, one would not think at

the first View that they were made by Man. The Whole is perfectly

inchanting, and a Person ever so little captivated with the strange Tales

of the Fairies, wou’d not scruple to think this magnificent Structure the

Master-piece of those ingenious Work-women. The whole Building, to outward

Appearance, seems very small; but when one examines the Inside of it, the

Apartments are both spacious and commodious. The Outside of this Palace

is partly hid by fine Groves; what appears of it is fac’d with white

Marble, adorn’d with an Order of Pilasters of red Marble, with Windows in

form of Arches between them. _Lewis_ XIV. often retir’d to this charming

Solitude, to be shelter’d from the Importunities of the Courtiers; and no

body was admitted to him but such Persons as his Majesty appointed.

A little League from _Versailles_ there’s _Marly_, another Royal Palace;

and which of all the Palaces has the most pleasant Gardens, tho’ those of

_Versailles_ are by much more sumptuous. The Great Cascade, which is all

of Marble of various Colors, makes a stately Appearance. When one is at

the Top of this Cascade, and looks toward the Palace, one sees all the

Gardens, and a Plain thro’ which the River _Seine_ winds itself, having on

one side the Castle of _St. Germain en Laye_; and on the other the Castle

_de Maisons_, belonging to the President of that Name, which forms an

admirable Point of View. _Lewis_ XIV. who was fond of _Marly_,

condescended to divest himself there of part of his Grandeur, and did a

great many Ladies of Quality the Honor to make them sit down with him at

Table. Thus, _Madame_, have I given you a slight Sketch of the famous

Palace of _Versailles_, and its Neighbourhood. I did not think it so

proper to give you an exact Detail of the Beauties one discovers at every

Step in this magnificent Palace. You have undoubtedly seen a good

Description of them already, in the Books printed upon that Subject. I

shall now add a Word or two of the Princes and Princesses of the Royal

Family.

I shall not presume to say any thing of the August Head of this

illustrious Family, since it wou’d require a more delicate Pen than mine

to treat so sublime a Subject with suitable Dignity. All that I shall do

my self the Honor to Say to you of _Lewis_ XIV. is, that if a good Mien

was to be the Merit for the Crown of _France_, this Great Prince might

have put in his Claim for it upon that account, as justly as on the

account of his Birth. He was already advanc’d in years in 1712, when I had

the Honor to see him; and yet he had a nobler Air than any Man in his

Kingdom.

The Duke of _Burgundy_, who became Dauphin of _France_, by the Death of

his Father, _Lewis_ XIVth’s Son, who was the year before carried off in a

very few days by the Small-Pox at his Palace of _Meudon_, was the first

Prince in the Kingdom next to the King. His Great Qualities prognosticated

that if he liv’d, his Reign wou’d be very happy: Being Devout, without

neglecting any of the Duties of a Prince, he had a way of reconciling the

Retirement of a Cloyster to the Bustle of a Court; and tho’ he had the

Great Affair of his Salvation always at heart, yet he thought, and justly

too, that his Practice of Piety ought not to exclude his Application to

the Affairs of State. He married a Princess, whose great Qualities wou’d

have made the _French_ happy, if an untimely Death had not snatch’d her

away in the Flower of her Age. Her Name was _Mary Adelaide_ of _Savoy_. I

can assure you, _Madame_, that I never saw one that had a more Noble and

Majestic Presence than this Princess. And several Ladies that had the

Honor of being with her in private assur’d me, that none could be more

sprightly and gay. Her Youth made her fond of Pleasures; but yet she

never was forgetful of her Duties. She had an extraordinary Respect and

Regard for the King. She went every Evening to Madame _de Maintenon_’s

Apartment when the King was there, and after the Council was over, she put

every thing in practice that her gay Humor cou’d imagine to divert him.

The Princess had also a particular Esteem for the Dauphin her Husband, and

as this Prince never fail’d of being at Mass, nor at Vespers, or the

Evening Prayers, the Dauphiness always went with him, and very readily

made her Pleasures give place to her Duties.

I had not been long at the Court of _France_ when this illustrious Couple

died within a few days of one another. The first who paid that Tribute to

Nature was the Dauphiness. This Princess fell sick at _Versailles_, soon

after which the Purples discover’d themselves; and at length her Distemper

appearing desperate, she was admonish’d to prepare for Death: but this was

Advice she could not find in her heart to comply with, it being a hard

matter to renounce a voluptuous Life; especially when supported with the

Hopes of being e’er long possess’d of one of the first Crowns in the

World. This Princess died, as it were, in the Arms of the Duchess of

_Orleans_, who by her Desire never left her during all the time of her

Illness.

The King, who was very much afflicted for her Death, set out immediately

for _Marly_, whither the Dauphin follow’d him. This Prince knowing the

Value of the Jewel he had lost, so indulg’d his Grief that he sicken’d

almost as soon as he arriv’d at _Marly_, of the same Distemper that had

just depriv’d him of his Consort. He received the Sentence of his Death

with a Resolution truly Christian; and in the Height of his Distemper was

often heard to put up this Petition, _My God! save the King and

Government_. The Night he died he had a very great Desire to hear Mass;

and whatever they could say to convince him that the Rules of the Church

did not allow it to be celebrated at that Hour, yet he wou’d not take a

Denial; so that as soon as the Midnight Bell rung, Mass was said in his

Chamber, at an Altar that was put up at his Bed’s feet. After the

Elevation of the Host, the Dauphin was very much compos’d, and continu’d

praying to God till his Strength failing him every Minute more and more,

he gave up the Ghost. This happen’d on the 18th of _February_ 1712, six

Days after the Death of the Dauphiness.

The King had need of all his Stock of Courage to support so many Shocks

one after another. The Royal Family was in the utmost Consternation. Those

that were about the King wou’d fain have persuaded him to retire elsewhere

a little while for Change of Air; but he answered undauntedly, _That he

was every where in the Hands of God_; _and that therefore he would

continue where he was_. This great Prince had soon after, another Trial of

his Patience, by the News he receiv’d of the Death of the Duke of

_Bretagne_, who upon the Decease of his Father had been declar’d the

Dauphin. This young Prince died at _Versailles_ the 8th of _March_ 1712,

when he was but five Years old. There never was a more sorrowful Scene

than to see the Funeral Pomp of this Year, which serv’d at the same time

for the Father, Mother and Son.

The only one that remain’d of this August Stock was the Duke of _Anjou_

now _Lewis_ XV. This Prince too, who was but a Child, was such a poor

Weakling all along, that no body thought he would live; and he was at this

time in such a bad way, that the very Physicians despair’d of his

Recovery. Nevertheless he insensibly gathered Strength, and now the

_French_ see their young Monarch in a more vigorous State of Health than

they could have hoped for in his Childhood: For this I believe they are

oblig’d to the great Care which was taken of this young Prince by the

Duchess of _Ventadour_, who was charg’d with his Education, in which Post

she acquitted herself with all the Zeal that a Person could do, who knew

the Value of that precious Deposit which was committed to her trust.

The next to the Throne after this young Prince was the Duke of _Berry_,

Brother to the Duke of _Burgundy_. He was of a fair Complexion, and for

his Age a little too corpulent. He spent his time chiefly in Hunting, and

when the Chace was over he us’d to go to his Duchess’s Apartments to game;

for this Princess, after the Death of the Duchess of _Burgundy_, kept an

Assembly.

The last Prince of the Royal Family was the Duke of _Orleans_, afterwards

Regent of the Kingdom; of whom I shall have occasion to say more, when at

the death of _Lewis le Grand_ he took on him the Government of the Kingdom

during the present Monarch’s Minority.

The first People at Court next to the Princes of the Royal Family, were

the Princes of the Blood. The chief was the Duke of _Chartres_, now Duke

of _Orleans_, by the Death of his Father who was the Regent of _France_

during the Minority of _Lewis_ XV.

The Duke of _Bourbon_, and the Counts _de Charolois_ and _Clermont_

compos’d the _Condé_ Branch. The first of these Princes whom they call

only _The Duke_, was a tall portly Man, very free and easy, but had the

misfortune to lose one Eye when he was a hunting by some small Shot that

scatter’d from the Duke of _Berry_’s Fowling-piece, as he let fly at some

Game.

The other two Princes were well-shap’d and very fair, but being as yet

very young, they were as well as the Duke of _Chartres_ in the hands of

their Governors.

The Prince of _Conti_, Son of him who was formerly decked King of

_Poland_, was the only Prince of the second Branch of _Bourbon_.

These, _Madame_, were the Princes that then composed the Court of

_France_. I shall now do myself the Honor to give you some account of the

Princesses according to their Rank, distinguishing them as I have done the

Princes, by the Titles of Princesses of the Royal Family, and Princesses

of the Blood.

The first Princess of the Royal Family was the Dauphiness, whom I have had

the Honor to mention to you.

Next to the Dauphiness, the Duchess of _Berry_ was first in Rank. This

Princess was the Daughter of the Duke of _Orleans_, afterwards the Regent.

She resembled her Father very much for her Wit, and had she not been a

little too bulky she would have been one of the most amiable Princesses of

the whole Court. I shall have occasion to let you into this Princess’s

Character presently.

_Madame_, the second Wife of _Philip_ of _Orleans_, Brother to _Lewis_

XIV. was the third Princess at Court, during the Life of the Dauphiness.

Her Name was _Elizabeth-Charlotte_ of _Bavaria_; being the Daughter of the

Elector _Charles-Lewis_ by _Charlotte_ of _Hesse_, and the last of the

illustrious Branch of the Palatine Family. The Court I constantly pay’d to

this Princess, to whom I was moreover well recommended by the Electoress

of _Hanover_ Mother to the King of _England_, enables me to tell you some

Particulars which will give you a just Notion of her.

This Princess was very affable, yet not very forward to grant her

Protection. She talk’d a great deal, and talk’d well. She lov’d especially

to speak in her Mother-Tongue, which she had not forgot tho’ she had been

fifty Years in _France_, for which reason she was overjoy’d to see her

Countrymen, and to correspond with them by Letters. She was very punctual

in writing to the Electoress of _Hanover_, and to several other Personages

in _Germany_; and the Letters she commonly wrote were not little Billets,

but took up twenty or thirty Sheets of Paper. Of these I had a sight of

several that would have been worth publishing, and have not seen any thing

better writ in the _German_ Tongue. In short, this Princess did nothing

but write from Morning till Night. Immediately after she rose, which was

always about ten o’clock, she sate down at her Toilet. From thence she

went into her Closet, where after having spent some time in Prayer, she

took Pen and Ink and wrote till she went to Mass. After this was ended,

she wrote again till Dinner-time, which did not last long, and then she

fell to writing again till ten o’clock at Night. About nine o’clock when

she received Company in her Closet she was found sitting at a great Table

spread with Papers, and there was an _Ombre_ Table just by it, at which

the Marshal _de Cleremhault_’s Lady and the other Ladies of the Princess’s

Houshold used to play. Every now and then the Princess cast an Eye upon

the Game, and would give her Advice and write at the same time. At other

times she convers’d with those who paid their Court to her. I once saw

this Princess napping, and the Moment after start out of her Sleep and

write on. This, _Madame_, was the common Life of the Princess when she was

at _Versailles_. Sometimes however she went out a hunting with the King,

dress’d like an _Amazon_, and sometimes to the Opera. For this Princess

was very fond of Plays, so that after the Death of _Lewis_ XIV. when the

Court came to settle at _Paris_ she often made the _French_ and _Italian_

Comedians perform at the Theatre of the Royal Palace.

As to Rank, never did any Princess support it better than this. As she was

punctual to the last degree in requiring the Honors due to her, so she

return’d to every one the Honors that belong’d to them. I heard her once

talk very sharply upon this head to the Duchess of _Berry_; and indeed

none but she durst have talk’d to that Princess in such a Stile. It

happen’d in _Lewis_ XVth’s Minority that the Duchess of _Berry_ came to

her one Evening in a Scarf. After she had been there about half an Hour

she ask’d Madame _de Mouchy_ what o’clock it was; whereupon the Princess

ask’d the Duchess of _Berry_ what she said to Madame _de Mouchy_. The

Duchess made her Answer, that she was going to the _Tuilleries_, and

therefore she ask’d what time of Night it was. _How! to the_ Tuilleries,

said Madame; _What are you going to take an Airing by the Light of

Flambeaus?_ For, indeed, it was just Night. _No, Madame_, said the Duchess

of _Berry_, _I am going to the King_. _To the King!_ reply’d Madame; _Pray

excuse me for expressing my Surprize!_ _What, go to the King, +Madame+,

in that Dress! I thought you knew your Duty to him better: I beseech you_,

Madame, _do no such thing. Render to the King the Respect that you owe

him, and then you will have a Right to challenge what is your due from

every body else._

The Duchess of _Berry_, who was not pleas’d at this Reprimand, was going

to reply, but Madame interrupted her, and said, _No_, Madame, _nothing can

excuse you: Surely you may think fit to dress your self as seldom as you

go to the King, since I that am your Grandmother dress my self every day.

Speak the Truth, and say ’tis meer Laziness that hinders you from putting

on your Clothes, which is a Fault that becomes neither your Age nor your

Rank. A Princess ought to be dress’d like a Princess, and a Chambermaid

like a Chambermaid._ The Duchess of _Berry_ being not us’d to such

Lectures, was extremely mortify’d at being so check’d, and upon this

occasion she did what she us’d to do when any thing was ever said that

offended her, and when Decency did not permit her to make a haughty Reply;

that is, she arose, made a low Curt’sy, and went away. Madame fell to

writing again, but talk’d still of the same Subject, and not without some

Warmth. She said, looking about to all the Company, _Was I in the wrong,

pray, to talk as I did to the Duchess of_ Berry? _What say you to it?_ You

will easily suppose, Madame, that nobody open’d their Lips, but while she

was running on still in the same strain, to the great Confusion of every

Soul in her Closet, the Princess of _Conti_ came in, which gave a Turn to

the Conversation.

After _Lewis_ XIVth’s Death, Madame follow’d the Court to _Paris_, where

she resided in the Winter, but commonly spent the fine Season at _St.

Cloud_. From thence she came very often to the King’s Apartment, us’d to

be at the Theatre, and return in the Evening to _St. Cloud_. She had then

with her _Mademoiselle_, now the Abbess of _Chelles_, and _Mademoiselle de

Valois_, now the Princess of _Modena_. The other Princesses, her

Grandaughters, liv’d at _Paris_ with the Duchess of _Orleans_ their

Mother. This Princess, tho’ the Mother of the Duchess of _Berry_, had not

the Precedency of her, and when she was at her Daughter’s House she had

only a Folding-Chair allowed her, whereas the Duchess sate in an

Arm-Chair. The Duchess of _Orleans_ was the last of the Royal Family.

The first of the Princesses of the Blood was the Princess-Dowager of

_Condé_, _Anne_ of _Bavaria_ Countess-Palatine, Daughter of _Edward_

Prince-Palatine of the _Rhine_. She was call’d only, Madame the Princess.

She commonly resided at _Paris_, where she liv’d a very exemplary Life for

her Piety and great Charity. She died the 23d of _February_, 1723, at

seventy-five Years of Age.

This Princess was Mother to the Duke of _Bourbon_ (that died in 1710)

whose Wife _Louisa-Francese_ of _Bourbon_, the legitimated Daughter of

_Lewis_ XIV. was, I can assure you, Madame, one of the most beautiful

Princesses of the Court; and tho’ already the Mother of eight Children, it

was much more natural to take her for their Sister. With so much Beauty,

she had also Charms still more preferable; and all these external

Qualities were supported by a majestic Air, and a Deportment which gain’d

this illustrious Princess Respect at the same time that her affable and

obliging Behavior procured her Love. She had moreover a lively sparkling

Wit, always sure to divert, whether in giving Merit its due Praise, or

whether by her delicate Raillery, she expos’d the Ridicule of that

Behavior, which notwithstanding the good Taste of the Age had perhaps made

the Fortune of some fawning Courtier.

The next in Rank to that Princess was the first Dowager-Princess of

_Conti_, the legitimated Daughter of _Lewis_ XIV. The Air, Shape and

Beauty of this Princess, have made such a noise in the World, that I

believe, Madame, you are not ignorant that she was reckon’d the tip-top

Beauty of the Kingdom; and really tho’ she was pretty much advanc’d in

Years, she had still that Air of Majesty and Modesty which partakes of the

Grandeur of her Father, and of the exemplary Piety of her Mother in her

latter Years. After the Death of _Lewis_ XIVth’s Son the Dauphin, this

Princess was very much retir’d, so that I never saw her any where but at

_Madame_’s Apartments; and since the Death of the King she scarce appears

any where at all.

The Princess of _Conti_, the second Dowager is by Birth Princess of

_Condé_. She is Mother of the Prince of _Conti_, of _Mademoiselle de

Conti_, who died Duchess of _Bourbon_, and of _Mademoiselle de la

Roche-sur-Yon_. It may be said that this Branch of _Bourbon_ have had

their share of Sense and Virtue.

The Duchess of _Maine_ and the late Duchess of _Vendôme_ were Sisters of

the second Dowager-Princess of _Conti_, and the Daughters of _Henry

Julius_ Prince of _Condé_, and of the Princess-Palatine, whom I have

already had the Honor to mention to you.

The Duchess of _Maine_ is a Princess of real Merit, and a great Wit. She

degenerates in no respect from the illustrious Blood of _Condé_. She

liv’d with more Splendor than any Princess of _France_. She commonly

resided at _Seaux_, a magnificent Castle not far from _Paris_, and one of

the finest that I have seen, not only for its commodious Apartments which

are also richly furnish’d, but for the extent of the Park in which there’s

such an agreeable Variety of Groves, and of Marble and Brazen Statues, as

presents the curious Spectator always with something new. It may be said,

that in her time the Pleasures had fix’d their Residence in this charming

Place. There was a Resort from all parts to this Princess, and People were

glad to leave both the Court and City, being sure of finding something at

_Seaux_ better contriv’d than the common Representations on the Stage; and

indeed they were never disappointed, the Duchess of _Maine_ having an

exquisite Taste in such things; for she lov’d the fine Sciences, and was a

better Judge than any body, of what they call Composures. This illustrious

Princess took a delight in bespeaking Plays, and sometimes did not think

it beneath her to act a part in them her self. The famous _Baron_ and

_Beauval_ had often the Honor of performing with her. Those who have

frequented the _French_ Theatre know full well that such a choice was a

very evident Proof of that Princess’s Taste for good Declamation. After

the Comedy there was generally a Party for Play, and then a magnificent

Supper, after which there was sometimes a Fire-Work, but most commonly

there was a Ball, at which there was always a vast Number of Masks; yet

the whole was so well ordered, that there was plenty of Refreshments for

every body.

These, _Madame_, were the Princes and Princesses who form’d the Court of

_France_ when I came thither, and I thought ’twas proper to give you a

Character of them before I mention’d the Conduct I observ’d at my Arrival

there.

I first got my self introduc’d to Madame, to whom I was moreover

recommended by the Electress of _Hanover_, the King of _England_’s Mother.

This Princess, who always retain’d a particular Regard for the _Germans_,

receiv’d me with even more kindness than she commonly shew’d to those of

that Nation. She did me the Honor to introduce me to the King herself, one

Night after his Majesty had supp’d. This Prince was in his Bed-Chamber,

with all the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family. The King

remember’d my Name, and did me the Honor to ask me, whether I was not the

Son of one _Pollnitz_, who had been at his Court from the Elector of

_Brandenbourg_? And upon my telling him that I was his Grandson, he said

to me, _Indeed, you seem to me to be too young to be taken for his Son_.

His Majesty then ask’d me if I intended to make any stay in _France_. I

answer’d, that I was so overjoy’d to find myself at the Feet of the

greatest of Kings, that I would do my self the Honor to pay my Duty to him

as long as possible. The King seem’d to like my Answer, and turning

towards Madame, he said to her, speaking of me, _He talks French well_. He

afterwards did me the Honor of a Salute, and told me as he withdrew that

he should take a pleasure in doing me Service.

Next day Madame introduc’d me to the Duke of _Burgundy_ the Dauphin, and

to the Dauphiness, which illustrious Couple died some time after, as I

have had the Honor to tell you. Madame also caus’d me to be introduc’d to

the Duke and Duchess of _Berry_, but neither of ’em said one word to me.

I was very well receiv’d by the Duke and Duchess of _Orleans_. It was not

easy to see this Prince without loving him; for his Affability supported

by a most sparkling Wit, and the most elegant Accomplishments, endear’d

him to all that had the Honor of Access to him. This Prince constantly

paid his Attendance at Court, and had the greatest Respect for Madame. He

never miss’d a Day of waiting upon this Princess. He went to her

Apartments every Night at half an Hour past eight, and play’d at Chess

there till the King’s Supper-time; but this Prince only sate down at the

Game, and as he went in and out he always kiss’d her Hand.

The Court of _France_, tho’ very splendid by reason of the number of

Princes and Princesses of which it consists, was nevertheless not so gay

as I expected. The Life at _Versailles_ was the most uniform in the World:

The King’s Hours were settled, and he that had seen but one Day there had

seen a Year. The King rose at nine or ten o’clock. The Princes and all the

Courtiers attended his Levee, and after he was dress’d he kneel’d down to

Prayers on a Cushion of Black Velvet, with his Chaplains and the Bishops

that were at his Levee, kneeling also round him. When Prayers were ended,

the King went into his Closet, where sometimes the Ministers came to speak

to him about Business, and in the mean while the Courtiers walk’d in the

great Gallery, thro’ which the King walk’d to hear Mass, and there all the

Courtiers waited to be seen by his Majesty as he pass’d. I never saw a

Nation more fond of paying their Attendance at Court than the _French_;

for I have even seen many Courtiers, who thinking the Prince had not

observ’d them, stept forwards into another Room, and then another, till

by chance his Majesty happen’d to cast his Eyes upon them.

After Mass was over the King return’d to his Closet; sometimes he held a

Council and afterwards din’d alone, at which time one might also observe

how the Courtiers strove to be seen by him. The King eat with a good

Appetite, nay I thought he eat voraciously. His Dinner lasted three

Quarters of an Hour, and upon certain Days there was Music. After Dinner,

the King went down by the Back-stairs, and took Coach to go a hunting in

the Park of _Versailles_, which was full of small Game. He return’d about

the Dusk of the Evening, and went to Madame _de Maintenon_’s Apartment,

where there were only a few of the old Courtiers, and generally speaking,

none but Ladies; as, Madame _de Caylus_, a Cousin of Madame _de

Maintenon_, and Madame _de Dangeau_, who play’d at Cards with the King

when the Ministers were not there; for then, instead of Gaming, Business

was the Subject, and there every thing was commonly settled. At ten

o’clock at Night, when word was brought to the King that Supper was serv’d

up, his Majesty went to the Table, where the Princes and Princesses always

accompanied him. The Duchesses were plac’d behind the Folding-Chairs of

the Princes, on both sides of the Table; and the other Ladies of Quality

stood on the Right hand of the King’s Arm-chair. His Majesty, after making

a Bow to the Princes and Princesses and all the Ladies, sate down in his

Chair, and then the Princes and Princesses took their Seats, as did also

the Duchesses. The other Ladies of Quality pass’d into a Salon just by,

where they were at liberty to sit down. The Supper lasted no longer than

the Dinner: The King talk’d there but little, and sometimes he address’d

himself to _Madame_, or to the Duchess of _Orleans_; but I never heard him

speak to the Dukes of _Berry_ and _Orleans_, nor even to the Duchess of

_Berry_.

After Supper was over, the King, preceded by the Princes, went into his

Bed-Chamber, where he found such of the Ladies as were not Duchesses, to

whom he put off his Hat, and then sate down by the Ballustrade that was

before his Bed, where he stay’d till the Princesses and Duchesses were

enter’d into the Room. I observ’d that the old Court-Ladies made a

profound Curt’sy to the King’s Bed when they enter’d his Chamber, which

the young Ladies did not; for being perhaps more puff’d up with their

Youth and their Charms, they did not think themselves oblig’d to pay so

much Respect. When the Duchesses who had attended at Supper enter’d to the

King’s Bed-Chamber, the King made an Obeisance to them, as he did to the

other Ladies; and then the King preceded by the Princes, and followed by

the Princesses who had supp’d with him, went into his Closet, to which the

Princes and Princesses of the Blood also repair’d. His Majesty convers’d

with ’em for a while, during which the Duchesses and the other Ladies

withdrew. At length the King dismiss’d the Princes and Princesses, and

went to Bed. Then the Courtiers separated, and the Generality retir’d.

Some went to the Duke of _Berry_’s Couchée, and others to the Duke of

_Orleans_’s. Those who paid their Court to this Prince were well receiv’d

by him. For my own part I went thither as often as I could, not so much to

pay my Court to _Madame_, as from a natural liking I had to this Prince.

Thus, Madame, did the King pass his Life. The Pleasures of the Courtiers

were at best but dull, Gaming being almost their whole Amusement. The

Assembly was commonly held at the House of the Prince _d’Armagnac_ of

_Lorrain_, Master of the Horse, where there was Play in the Afternoon.

Foreigners were perfectly welcome to this Prince, as they were also to the

Cardinal of _Roban_. The latter liv’d very magnificently, and at the

Houses of these two Noblemen you were sure to see the Prime of the

Nobility of _France_.

When the Court was at FONTAINBLEAU[41], ’twas much more gay than it was

when at _Versailles_, where it may be said, that it shone in its full

Lustre. Nevertheless tho’ _Fontainbleau_ is not near so magnificent, it

has the Air of a Castle, which _Versailles_ has not. Moreover, Art and

Nature seem to have acted in concert towards forming the magnificent

Buildings which several Monarchs have caus’d to be erected at

_Fontainbleau_: Whereas at _Versailles_ Nature seems to have had nothing

to do, every thing being the Work of Art, and too much adorned. Perhaps I

may be the only one of this Opinion, but I always thought that the

Magnificence at _Versailles_ was too general.

I was at _Fontainbleau_ some time after the Conclusion of the Suspension

of Arms with the _English_. The News of the Peace on the point of being

concluded, and the Victory at _Denain_, seem’d to have restor’d to the

Court such an Air of Gayety as had not been known there for many years.

The Elector of _Bavaria_ was there at that time, and there was such Gaming

at the Duchess of _Berry_’s and the Duke of _Antin_’s, as if they had no

Sense at all of the public Calamities. The Party was of twelve Cutters at

_Lansquenet_, who began with setting four Lewid’ors, and at last stak’d

Rouleaus of a hundred Lewid’ors on a Card. I won seven hundred Lewid’ors

there one Night, in less than an Hour’s time, and the Duchess _de la

Ferte_ trick’d me out of no less than a hundred, besides fourscore that

she borrow’d of me, and never paid me again. Perhaps she thought ’twas the

best way to make herself amends for the Trouble she was pleas’d to take

upon her, of setting my Money upon the Table, there being such a Croud of

Ladies round it that I could not get near it.

While the Court was at _Fontainbleau_, who should come thither but Mr.

_St. John_, since made Lord _Bolingbroke_, to settle the Plan of the Peace

that was afterwards concluded at _Utrecht_. He could not have been better

receiv’d than he was there if he had been a Sovereign Prince, for the King

himself had an extraordinary Regard for him. I was one day to see his

Majesty dine, when there was to be Music, but as soon as it struck up the

King stopt it, by calling out aloud, _I am informed that M. +de St. John+

dines with the Duke of +Antin+. Let my Music wait on him there, and let

him know that I send it to him, and that I wish it may give him Pleasure._

You will easily imagine, Madame, that all the Courtiers, in imitation of

the Monarch, strove who should be most complaisant to the _English_

Minister, who for his part justly merited the Regard that was paid to him.

The Court stay’d at _Fontainbleau_ some time after the Arrival of this

Minister, and all the while there was nothing but Merriment and a

continual Succession of Pleasures. The Hunting-Matches were of the utmost

Magnificence. The Ladies were there either on horseback or in Chaises in

the Retinue of the Duchess of _Berry_ and _Madame_. So many fine Women

mounted on horseback all richly dressed, the King in a Chaise attended by

the whole Court on horseback, and the sumptuous Hunting-Equipages to be

seen all at once in the pleasant Forest of _Fontainbleau_, form’d one of

the finest Sights that could be. On the Days when there was no Hunting,

the King took the Air in an open Calash round the great Canal, accompany’d

by Ladies whose Habits were the finest and of the most beautiful Fancy

that could be imagin’d. When the Court return’d from their Airing there

was a Comedy or else a Drawing-Room at the Duchess of _Berry_’s, where

they play’d at _Lansquenet_.

At those times too when there was no Hunting there were Assemblies at M.

_le Grand_’s, and several others of Quality. I observ’d that most of the

Nobility were more inclinable to be complaisant at _Fontainbleau_, than at

_Versailles_: If a Man was ever so little known for a Person of Quality,

they freely furnish’d him with the King’s Horses for Hunting, which is

scarce ever practis’d but in _France_ and _Lorrain_. Indeed I have seen

the same thing done at the Court of _Bavaria_, but ’twas very seldom.

After I had follow’d the Court for some time to _Versailles_ and

_Fontainbleau_, I went back again to the famous City of PARIS. I no sooner

arriv’d there but I had a considerable Fit of Sickness, which brought me

almost to the Brink of the Grave. I committed myself to the care of the

famous _Dutch_ Physician _Helvetius_. This skilful Doctor set me upon my

Legs in a very little time; and when I was able to go abroad, he advis’d

me to take a Walk in the Garden of _Luxembourg_, which they cry’d up for

the best Air in all _Paris_. I did not fail to pursue the Doctor’s

Direction, and observ’d indeed, that the Air I breath’d in that Garden was

very good for me: But in a little time it had like to have prov’d most

pernicious to me. For one Morning as I was walking there, I saw two Ladies

coming a good way off, in a Deshabillé, who had both a grand Air, and a

most noble Carriage. They were footing it on the very Terrass where I was

walking; so that I sat down on a Bench to see them pass by. I confess to

you, that I thought their Persons as lovely as their Undress was genteel

and noble. As they sail’d by me, one of ’em happen’d to drop her

Handkerchief, which I that instant snatch’d up and presented to her. She

receiv’d it in a very polite manner, and I pass’d her a Compliment, to

which she made a witty Reply. By degrees we entered into a Conversation,

which tho’ it held only a Quarter of an Hour, cost me very dear; for I

fell in Love, and more deeply in Love than I can express to you. The

Ladies asked my Name. You will imagine I did not put them to the trouble

of asking it twice; the rather, because I hop’d that in requital they

would tell me their Names: But notwithstanding all my Intreaty they wou’d

not satisfy me. She that I was most enamour’d with at the first View, bid

me in very good _High-Dutch_ not to give my self any Uneasiness to know

who they were; as she was going away, she said that I should not fail to

see them again if I made any stay at _Paris_. I gave her my Hand and led

her to her Coach, which seem’d to be well lin’d. I also saw a Couple of

lusty Lackeys who were well clad. All this put together, confirm’d me in

the Notion I had conceiv’d, that they were Ladies of Quality; or, at

least, in good Keeping. I wou’d have given all the World to be inform’d

exactly who and what they were; but ’twas absolutely impossible for me to

make any Discovery. The Lackey that I had with me being a _German_, and

even more a Stranger here than my self, was upon that account an improper

Person, for the Management which is necessary for such Discoveries. I

remain’d therefore mortally uneasy, and it had like to have made me as

light-headed as I was in the Illness from which I was but newly recover’d.

I did not fail to go to _Luxembourg_ Gardens every day, and staid there

from nine o’clock in the Morning till Night, excepting only the little

time it took me to go home to Dinner. All these Jaunts forwards and

backwards lasted about a Fortnight, at the end of which I found my self

just as forward as I was the first Day. At last, when I had given over all

Thoughts of being so happy as to find this Fair-one out, I was surpris’d

to see her at a Place where I never dreamt of finding her. One day as I

waited upon the Ladies _de V----_ and _D----_ to the Play-house where

_Cid_ was to be acted, and _Quinaut_ the Elder began with playing

_Roderigo_; judge, _Madame_, how great was my Surprize when I saw that the

Heroine of my Passion was also the Heroine of this Play, in which she

perform’d the Part of _Clymene_. In all my Life I was never so confounded,

and began to question whether I ought to indulge a Passion of that nature.

I perceiv’d some Reluctance in my Mind against attaching my self to a

Person whose Profession is rarely susceptible of those nice Sentiments,

which Persons of Honor always demand in Love. But the Course I took was

really the same that a Boy of nineteen years of Age wou’d have done; that

is to say, I acted the very contrary to what I ought to have done. I

foolishly indulg’d my I Passion, so that I had scarce Patience to stay for

the Interval between the Play and the Entertainment, before I went behind

the Scenes, where I found my Fair-one, with several Gentlemen of my

Acquaintance about her, whom I took at first for so many Rivals; and as if

it was not Punishment enough to be in love, I must needs be jealous too. I

spoke to _D----_, (which was the Name of this dissembling Creature) but I

perceiv’d that what I said put her into a Flutter; and I observ’d that she

was over and above complaisant to a Gentleman of the Long Robe who stood

near her. I was not mistaken in my Guess; ’twas _B----_, one of the

Counsellors of Parliament, who bore this Lady’s Expences, and at such a

Rate too, as if he had been an Officer of the Finances, rather than a

Magistrate. I was so vain as to think of supplanting this Lover, or at

least, if I could not quite non-suit him, I flatter’d my self that I

should put him to a Non-plus. For this end I began to frequent the Comedy,

and soon had the Comfort to find that my Love was not repaid with

Ingratitude.

The Difficulty was to find a convenient Opportunity of seeing one another;

but Love and Fortune soon pav’d the way for our Interview. Young _Q----_,

the Sister of _D----_, who also liv’d with her, happen’d to have the

Small-Pox. The Counsellor, who was extremely afraid of the Consequence,

immediately took _D----_ from those Lodgings, and gave her an Apartment in

the Hotel _d’Entragues_: But my comic Mistress gave me notice of her new

Quarters; and the very same Day I hir’d a Chamber there too. I took no

body with me but one Domestic, who was the Confident of my little Secrets;

and there, in spite of my troublesome _Argus_, it was easy for me to see

his Mistress, who would have been glad to be mine, if I had been so

generous as he was, to give her 14000 Livres a year. But I chose rather to

go snacks with him in the Favors which the Fair-one granted, than to pay

so dear for the Exclusion of a Rival. The Counsellor, for his part, was

not so indifferent, and having a Mistrust, he left no Stone unturn’d to

find out the real Truth of the matter; nor was it long e’er his Curiosity

was satisfy’d. Any other Person, not so deeply smitten as he was, might

have known what he had to trust to for a Trifle of Expence; but this

unbelieving Gallant, who, perhaps, was also too much conceited of his own

Merit, and had too great an Opinion of his Nymph’s Virtue, to presume to

be jealous of her Honor upon slight Appearances, try’d new Experiments. He

gave a Bribe to a Chambermaid, who made him see enough with his own Eyes

intirely to remove those Suspicions which he had so fondly indulged. In a

word, he saw me with his dear Mistress; and at a time too, when we should

have least of all thought of being seen together. What a Fury the provok’d

Lover was in, is easy to imagine, Nevertheless he was so prudent as to

dissemble his Passion till I was retir’d to my own Chamber. Then, like

another _Roland_, he took a Revenge for the Infidelity of his _Angelica_

upon every thing that happen’d in his way. He broke and dash’d all to

pieces; he tore off her Topknot, and threaten’d no less than utter

Destruction to all about him. To all this Noise the Damsel return’d no

Answer but Tears, which at length wrought so far upon this outragious

Lover, as to pacify him: being then more calm, he larded his severe

Reproaches with the softest Expressions; and taking the advantage of her

Foible, offer’d her to increase her Pension, if she wou’d but promise him

inviolable Fidelity. The Fair-one swore that nothing should, hereafter,

lead her astray from her Duty; and in a Flood of Tears she consented to

receive 2000 Crowns Addition to her Pension, which made it 20000 Livres a

year. The Bargain was concluded with great Joy on both sides; but yet it

was not strictly perform’d; for I continu’d my Visits to the Damsel, till

at length her Sister being recover’d of her Distemper, Miss return’d to

her own House. The Difficulties that then occurr’d, together with my own

Fickleness, quite cool’d my Passion, which it was the easier for me to get

rid of, because it was not in the least founded in Esteem; and perhaps,

had it not been purely for the Pleasure of teazing that Limb of the Law, I

had withdrawn my Addresses sooner.

My Amour with the fair Comedian did not sequester me from Company; and I

will venture to say, that I made a tolerable Figure in a Country where

every body that is not _French_ passes readily for a Barbarian. Several

Gentlemen who saw how graciously the King receiv’d me at _Versailles_,

were eager to pay me their Respects; particularly the Duke _D----_, first

Gentleman of the Bed-Chamber, made me such a Compliment as I cannot easily

forget. I became acquainted with this Nobleman at _Versailles_. He

accosted me with the utmost Civility in the Great Gallery, the very Day

after I had been introduc’d to his Majesty, and told me that I had good

reason to be pleas’d with the Reception which the King gave me; but much

more with what he said when I was withdrawn; which was, _That of all the

Foreigners who had been introduc’d to him, no body had saluted him with a

better Grace and a more easy Air than the Margrave of_ Anspach _and me_.

The said Duke made a Proposal to me for my entring into the Service of

_France_; and also promis’d me that I should be made a Colonel, if I would

turn _Roman Catholic_. I thank’d him for his obliging Offers; but assur’d

him, that Interest should never make me alter my Religion. I was also at

that time full of the Prejudices of the Protestants against the Catholics;

moreover, I was of an Age not mature enough for serious Reflections: for I

thought of nothing in the world but my Pleasures; and indeed, how could a

Man of my years help abandoning himself to them, when all the Kingdom,

_Paris_ especially, breath’d an Air of Gayety, which there was no

withstanding? _France_ saw that Peace which she had long wish’d for, on

the point of being concluded; her late Losses had been expung’d by the

Victory at _Denain_, and other Advantages which the _French_ Troops

obtain’d, not only by the raising of the Siege of _Landrecy_, which the

Allies had invested, but by the taking of _Marchiennes_ and _St. Amant_.

The Allies began therefore to think of a Peace, and the _English_ were at

last willing to consent to it. I have already had the Honor to acquaint

you, that my Lord _St. John_ was come to the Court of _France_ to have a

Conference upon the Articles of the so much desir’d Peace; and that he

was receiv’d there as a Man who came with the most important News that

’twas possible for them to receive.

As soon as that Minister was return’d to _London_, the Congress was open’d

at _Utrecht_ for a Peace; and _France_ and _England_ mutually sent their

Ambassadors to one another. The Duke _d’Aumont_ was appointed to go in

that quality to the Court of _England_; and before he departed, the King

gave him the Order of the Holy Ghost. This Nobleman was perfectly welcome

to the Court-Party at _London_, which was desirous of Peace; but was an

Eye-sore to the opposite Party, who hated to hear the mention of it. The

_French_ Ambassador was insulted, and treated with such Outrage, that his

House was set on fire, and the Loss thereby sustain’d was very

considerable; the said Duke having borrow’d the richest Furniture of

several Persons, which was entirely burnt. The Duke of _Orleans_ thereby

lost a noble Suit of Hangings, and several very scarce Pictures.

The Person who was sent to _France_, as Ambassador from the Court of

_England_, was the Duke of _Shrewsbury_, whose Reception by the King, the

Court and the Kingdom was sufficient Demonstration how well they lik’d the

Commission which he came to negotiate. This Ambassador kept no very great

Table at the Court of _France_; nor was his Equipage very gay. He was

indeed a Nobleman of very great Merit, but of a mean Presence; for he was

blind of one Eye, and exclusive of that Defect no body would hardly have

taken him for a Nobleman, if he had not been adorn’d with the Order of the

Garter. He had his Duchess with him, who was an _Italian_ Lady by Birth,

and Sister to the famous _P----_, so well known in _England_ for his

Extravagancies and his tragical Exit. The Duke of _Shrewsbury_ was

betroth’d to her in _Italy_, and married in _England_. This Duchess

appear’d at the Court of _France_ with the most Foreign Air in the World.

The Duchess _d’Aumont_ was to have introduc’d her to the King and the

Princesses; but as she was at that time indispos’d, she desir’d Madame _de

Chatillon_ to perform the Office for her. The King receiv’d the

Ambassadress with great Marks of Distinction; and she was afterwards

introduc’d to _Madame_, where she found a numerous Company that came

thither out of meer Curiosity; and there it was that I had the Honor of

seeing her. She seem’d at first in such Confusion, as if she had never

liv’d in any Court, but by degrees she took courage. She talk’d a great

deal, and talk’d well.

The same Night the Duchess of _Shrewsbury_ was with the King at Supper,

where she was plac’d in the Rank of the Duchesses, exactly behind the Duke

of _Berry_. She talk’d a great deal to this Prince, tho’ she had only a

Glimpse of him once before at the Duchess of _Berry_’s Apartment. All the

Supper-time she did nothing but twitch him by the Sleeve, to advise him

not to eat so much. Every body was very much surpriz’d to see this

Familiarity of her’s; and I observ’d that the Duke of _Berry_ was not a

little confounded at it. I forgot to mention one Circumstance wherein I

thought the King was over and above polite. As he came to the Table he

pass’d by the Duchess of _Shrewsbury_, without seeing her; but just as he

was going to sit down, M. _de Livry_ the Chief Steward acquainted him,

that the Ambassadress of _England_ was come to his Supper. Upon this, the

King return’d that instant to the Place where she was, and said to her,

_That he had pass’d her without saluting her, because he did not see her;

and that, he thought she was so fatigu’d with the Visits she had made in

the Day that she was retir’d_. The King also desir’d her to go and repose

her self; but she made her Excuse and said, _That ’twas impossible to have

the Honor of paying Duty to so great a King as his Majesty, and to

complain of Fatigue_.

The Duchess of _Shrewsbury_ was much of the same Temper as her Lord the

Ambassador: She did not care for expensive Living. I remember that one day

when I was at the Palace of _Soissons_, where she lodg’d, the Duchess _de

----_, who was a very gay Lady, wou’d fain have engag’d the Ambassadress

to give a Ball: for this purpose she signify’d what a general Melancholy

there was all over _France_, on account of the Death of the Princes, and a

War of several years continuance; and said, every body expected that the

Duke of _Shrewsbury_, who was come over to _France_ to bring Peace, would

also be inclinable to procure the Return of those Pleasures which so many

Calamities had banish’d. But it all avail’d nothing; for the Ambassadress

made answer to the Duchess, that she should be very glad to see a general

Mirth at _Paris_; and that she thought the Duke of _Shrewsbury_ had

brought the _French_ such important News, as wou’d have put an end to all

Sadness for the past Misfortunes, without expecting him to procure other

Pleasures. ’Twas to no purpose therefore to insist any longer on a Ball

from that Quarter.

You will undoubtedly be surpriz’d, Madame, when you hear who was the

Person that gave the first Ball, instead of the Ambassador of _England_.

’Twas I that reviv’d _Paris_ out of that fatal Lethargy, into which it

seem’d to be fallen. I gave a Ball at _Carneaux_, or rather _Mesdames de

la M----_ _D----_ and _de V----_ gave it for me. These Ladies having in

form desir’d me to give a Ball, I immediately excus’d my self, on the

consideration that as I was a Stranger it did not become me to set a

Pattern for Entertainments, especially for a Peace which could be of no

farther Advantage to me, than as it would indeed enable me to live more to

my Satisfaction, in a Country where it had been long wish’d for. Moreover,

there were other Reasons much of the same nature as those that govern’d

the Duke of _Shrewsbury_, which made me grudge the Expence of a Ball that

I foresaw would be very chargeable. My Arguments had some weight with the

Ladies; but a Ball they were resolv’d to have, and therefore they made a

Proposal to me, that if I would give them but ten Lewid’ors there should

be a Ball, and I should have nothing else to do but to give out at the

Opera and the Comedy, that there would be a Ball such a day at _Carneaux_.

This I did not fail to do, and wherever I came I found People very well

inclin’d to be present at the Assembly. The Ladies on their part hir’d the

great Hall of the _Carneaux_, which they caus’d to be very finely

illuminated, and having provided a very good Concert of Music there, they

caus’d the Ball to be open’d by their Waiting-Women and Valets de Chambre.

I supp’d with the Ladies that Evening, and ingenuously own’d to them that

I did not very well know what Effect a Ball of that sort would have at

_Paris_. After a good deal of joke upon it we went thither as soon as

ever we had supp’d, and I confess that in my Life I never saw more

Maskers. They crouded one another from the very Gate of the Court into the

Hall, where the People were ready to faint for the very Heat, and did not

know whom to apply to for a drop of Water: Every body rav’d against the

Ball, and against the Person that gave it. But by good luck they did not

know whom they were oblig’d to for such an Entertainment. Mean time I had

the Precaution to provide some Refreshments for the Ladies in my Company,

and they were not ill bestow’d. This Ball drew me in to give ten or a

dozen other Entertainments of the like kind, and altogether as unprovided

of Refreshments. Yet notwithstanding the general Thirst complain’d of for

want of Liquor, and the Curses that I heard them utter against the

_Undertaker_, there was always a vast Croud of Masqueraders.

Thus, Madame, did I pass my time at _Paris_, I kept the greatest and the

gayest Company, and I had pretty good Fortune at Play, which, together

with what was remitted to me from home, put me in a Condition to live

there like a Prince. I made fresh Acquaintance every day, and they gave me

fresh Pleasures, till I receiv’d News which troubled me very much, _viz._

the Death of our King _Frederic_ I. which happen’d on the 15th of

_February_ this Year, and was occasion’d by one of the saddest Accidents

that could have fallen out. ’Twas the Queen herself who in one of those

Vertigo’s, to which she had been for some time past subject, frighten’d

the King so that he never recover’d it. It happen’d thus: