Lumpy Jaw.

Some of my cows have hard lumps on their jaws, or lumpy jaw. Can that be

cured, and how?

This is Actinomycosis (lumpy jaw) and is due to ray fungi (actinomyces)

which are found originally on plants which enter the body in various

ways. The trouble usually appears in the upper or lower jaws of cattle,

where it generally produces tumors of bone or soft tissues. For

treatment give 1 1/2 drachms of iodide of potash in 1/2 pint of water

daily for 14 days. Increase to 2 drachms for 14 more days, and then

gradually decrease. Divide the tumor and insert gauze saturated with

tincture of iodine for 4 days. In 8 days a visible improvement will be

noticed,

A Neck-Swelling.

My cow has a swelling under her neck between her jaw bones about the

size of a baseball and almost as hard. It is not attached to anything

apparently, but largely suspended by the skin at the entrance to the

throat.

Cut directly through the center of the enlargement, clean to the bottom,

splitting it wide open. Clean it out with peroxide of hydrogen, after

which saturate absorbent cotton with tincture iodine, pack in tight and

sew the skin to hold it in place. Remove the dressing in 48 hours and

wash with sheep dip (tablespoon to 1 quart of warm water) twice daily.

This may be tubercular, or the result of foxtail, etc.

Cow Chewing Bones.

One of my cows is continually chewing bones. What can I do to prevent

it?

Give the cow good clean hay; some root crop, cocoanut meal, bran or

soy-bean meal. If the cow does not stop mix in the drinking water twice

daily a little dilute hydrochloric acid. Also, have boxes arranged near

feeding stalls which contain wood ashes, slaked lime and salt.

Swelling on the Dewlap.

I have a cow that has a large lump at the point of the breastbone, the

dewlap. This lump is as large as a cocoanut, and was caused, I think, by

friction against a low manger in eating.

Get equal parts of tincture of iodine and soap liniment and rub onto the

swelling twice daily for a week.

Barren Heifers.

I have three heifers, 3 years old, which have run with the bull right

along and have failed with calf; have had three different bulls to them;

what can be done?

There is a possibility of contagious abortion causing these heifers to

fail to breed. If this has occurred in the herd, the heifers are very

apt to be affected. If apparently healthy, reduce me feed and make the

heifers take considerable exercise to reduce flesh. Give each a dram of

powdered nux vomIca and one-half dram of dried sulphate of iron once

daily in a little feed. Breed to a healthy bull when the heifers come in

heat.

A Sterile Cow.

I have a very fine Jersey cow. I have had her to the bull every month,

and can't get her with calf.

In an isolated case of this kind there is probably some disease of the

generative organs or some condition whereby the impregnation cannot

occur even when the animal is bred. The ovaries may be cystic; there may

be chronic inflammation of the womb and possibly the mouth of the womb

was injured at last calf birth and the scar prevents its admitting the

fertilizing cells. If possible, a veterinarian should make a careful

examination of this cow in order to determine what the trouble is.

However, this treatment may be tried: About the time of coming in heat,

give the cow a large dose of glaubers salts (one pound) and the nux

vomica and iron treatment advised for "Barren Heifers" in another

paragraph. Before breeding the cow, apply a little extract of belladonna

and glycerine to the mouth of the womb and breed a few hours after.

Supernumerary Teat.

On the upper part of one of the hind teats of a young Jersey cow that

freshened recently for the first time, there is a small growth from

which the milk comes more plentifully than from the natural opening

below. How, if at all, can this opening be closed without drying the

cow? The milk from it runs all over the milker's hand and makes milking

very disagreeable.

The only thing that can be done until the cow is dry is to tie the small

teat up before milking. This can be done with a string, rubber band, or

an ordinary clamp. If it is so small that the opening cannot be tied,

there is nothing to do, except, perhaps to use, her as a nurse for

calves. Two of these might run with her at a time, making way for others

as soon as they are able to look after themselves. Quite a number of

calves can sometimes be handled in a single year by a cow affected this

way and the benefit to the calves might be nearly as much as by using

the cow for butter production. When the cow is dry the teat can be

amputated and the opening will close when the sore heals, or a stick of

lunar caustic can be inserted into it, causing a wound that will heal

solid.

Infection of Udder.

Last year one of my cows had milk fever which affected her udder. This

year after freshening she milked two months when she suddenly went dry

on one side of her udder. She is now badly stiffened up in her hind

quarters and off her feed.

The cow has infectious mastitis due to introduction of some infection.

Give a saline purge (1 pound. glauber salt), inject peroxide of

hydrogen, after which pump in, sterile air. Apply externally camphorated

oil once daily. Camphorated oil has a tendency to dry up the secretion

of the gland and is used advisedly.

Lumps in Teats.

My cow has hard lumps in, her teats and lower part of the bag. These

cause pain to her on milking, but there are no other symptoms of

disorder. This condition has prevailed several months.

Give 1 drachm. iodide potash daily for one week; 2 drachms the second

week 3 drachms the third week, add reduce as you began. If tumors are

small and interfere with the flow of milk they can be removed.

Wound in Teat.

I have a cow with an open slit about one-fourth to one-third of an inch

in the side of one teat. I have lacerated the edges and stitched the

slit well together many times but the milk will ooze out and prevent

healing together. I have used numberless milk tubes to no avail, as the

flange on the tubes loose out. When I remove the flange the tubes creep

up into the udder and it is a trouble to get them out again.

Wounds of a quiescent udder usually heal, but if the cow is in milk and

the lesions involve the teats it is exceedingly difficult to heal the

wound, as the irritation delays or interrupts the healing process. The

following lotion is one of the very best to use for teat wound: Tinct.

iodine, 2 ounces; tinct. arnica, 2 ounces; glycerine, 2 ounces; comp.

tinct. benzoine, 2 ounces. Mix and apply twice daily after washing with

5 per cent solution carbolic acid and castile soap. Your milk tube must

be an ancient one as all milk tubes of today are self-retainers and

could not slip into the udder. Care must be taken to boil the tube

previous to each using as you may cause an infection of the udder by a

filthy tube.

Injury to Udder.

I have a cow which has a gathering in the back of her udder which seems

to be some sort of injury. It has been there but a few days.

This injury was caused by a blow or traumatism. Thoroughly scrape out

the diseased tissue and after washing with sheep-dip water (tablespoon

to one quart) apply the following powder: Mix the following powder and

apply it to the wound: Iodoform, 1 drachm; boric acid, 1 ounce; alum,

1/2 ounce; zinc oxide, 1/2 ounce. Be sure and insert this powder into

the bottom of the wound, so that it will reach all diseased parts.

Blind Teat.

What can I do for a "blind teat"? The cow has just freshened and that

quarter of her udder is very full, but there is no milk in the teat. I

have been rubbing and greasing the udder. The blind quarter is slightly

inflamed.

An artificial opening should be made in the teat at once. Call in the

nearest physician unless you have a regular graduate veterinarian near.

Cow Pox.

I have a yearling heifer which is in fine condition and making good

growth. But all four of her teats have sores on them and are mostly

covered with scabs.

It is probably cow pox. Give a physic of glauber and epsom salts mixed 4

ounces of each to the heifer and double the dose to the cow. Apply

externally, once daily, after washing, the following prescription: Zinc

ointment, 4 ounces; iodoform, 1/2 ounce; glycerine, 2 ounces; carbolic

acid, 2 drachms. Mix thoroughly and apply. to sores.

Cause of "Loss of Cud."

About three months ago a pure-bred Jersey commenced to fail on her milk

and soon went dry, although on good feed. Did not seem to be sick, but

did not eat ravenously as she generally did, and little was thought of

it. During the past six weeks she has failed rapidly. Does not chew her

cud, froths at the mouth, runs at the eyes, and when she eats anything

much it bloats her. In fact, she seems bloated all the time. She is

lifeless and will hardly move around, getting very thin, and hair

standing the wrong way. Is there such a thing as a cow losing her cud?

Most people imagine a cow's cud is something material. As a matter of

fact, in a certain sense the words appetite and cud are synonymous. You

can say a cow has lost her appetite or a cow has lost her cud. Now, any

sickness severe enough will cause a cow to lose her appetite. The

bloating is caused from indigestion secondary to some organic disease,

probably tuberculosis. Keep up the cow's strength by giving condensed

floods or drenches of egg-nogg, gruel or greens. Give warm salt-water

injections twice daily and give the following mixture: Quinine sulphate,

2 ounces; Antipyrine, 1 ounce; ammonia muriate, 3 ounces; alcohol, 1

quart; water 1 quart. Mix; give 2 ounces every four hours.

Calf Dysentery.

I would like to know the reason for bloody discharges from the bowels of

a young six-day-old calf. There is a looseness of the bowels and the

blood is intermingled with the excrement. There is not a profuse amount

of blood, nor is it very dark in color, and it seems to be accompanied

with mucus or light, thick substance.

This is dysentery, due to scours so prevalent in calves. Give 6 ounces

olive oil, 4 drachms bismuth subnitrate and 1 drachm Pearson's creoline.

The discharge is very dangerous to other animals.

Bovine Rheumatism.

Our Jersey cow got somewhat lame one year ago in one hip or leg after

calving but soon got better. Last June when she came in one leg was

lame. It seems to be in the stiffle joint and the first one above. When

she walks she gets real lame.

Rheumatism is the trouble here. Give the following powder: Soda

salicylate, 3 ounces; salol, 2 ounces; pulv. gentian root, 2 ounces. Mix

and make 24 powders. Give four daily. Apply Pratt's, a good veterinary

liniment.

Bleeding for Blackleg.

I have read several articles on blackleg, and it seems strange to me

that no mention is made of an operation that is an absolute preventive,

namely, bleeding in the feet.

The reason that no special mention of bleeding is made is that it is not

now considered the preventive that it once was. Some people appear to

have fair success with it, and others no success at all. The Bureau of

Animal Industry states that the evidence indicates that bleeding,

nerving, roweling or setoning have neither curative nor protective value

and, therefore, should be discarded for vaccination which is now widely

used as a preventive.

Poor Feeding, Depraved Appetite.

I have three cows. They have been fed alfalfa hay all winter and are in

very good condition and seem otherwise in good health, and have salt to

run to. Every time they chance to come to the yard they will pick up on

old bone and chew it for perhaps a half hour. I always take the bone

away from them when I discover it.

These cows have a depraved appetite, owing to the fact the tissues of

the body are crying out for something lacking that is required in the

system. Administer the following powder; also put a lump of lime in the

watering trough: Pulv. gentian, 1 ounce; pulv. elm bark, 2 ounces; pulv.

iron sulphate, 1 ounce; pulv. bicarb. soda, 4 ounces; pulv. aniseed, 2

ounces; pulv. red pepper 1/2 ounce; pulv. oilcake meal 10 pounds. Mix

thoroughly and give a tablespoonful in scalded grain once daily.

Cows Swallowing Foreign Substances.

We recently lost a valuable cow, and when we opened her we found a large

tumor or abscess at the top of the heart as large as a gallon jar. What

caused it, or is there any danger of other cows taking it, and if so,

what can we do?

This is a common disease among cows and is called traumatic

pericarditis. The trouble arises from the habit of the cows picking up

foreign substances such as wire, nails, or hairpins, and swallowing

them. They are taken into the paunch and the digestive movements of this

organ cause the foreign body to penetrate the lining and enter the

heart, where it gradually causes death as it enters deeper. It is very

common to find nails, etc., in the stomachs of old dairy cows which are

killed at the slaughter-houses. If you had examined the animal

carefully, you would find that some foreign body had penetrated the

heart and caused death. There is no danger of any contagion arising from

your cow.

Defective Urination.

I have a cow that seems to be in good health and gives plenty of milk.

Nearly every morning when she is being milked she seems to want to

urinate and will stand letting the water drip from her.

This trouble often results from the cows eating alkaline hay. Give her

two quarts of flaxseed tea daily. Mix it with her food in which there

has been placed one-half teaspoon of powdered Buchu.

Infectious Conjunctivitis (Sore Eyes).

I have several cows and heifers that are affected with sore eyes. The

disease first makes its appearance by excessive watering of the eyes;

then the center or pupil becomes white and later turns red of bloodshot.

Bathe thoroughly with the normal salt solution (teaspoon salt to 1 pint

warm water), after which place in the eye and all around the mucuous

membrane of the eye the following: Twenty-five per cent solution of

argyrol, one-half ounce; apply thoroughly once daily and keep out of the

sunlight if possible. Another treatment is: Bathe the eyes once daily

with boracic acid 1 teaspoon, water 1 pint, after which thoroughly

saturate the eyelids and eyes with 1 to 10,000 solution of bichloride of

mercury. You are dealing with a disease that will spread throughout your

herd if you do not take proper means to separate the affected from the

well ones.

What to Do Against Tuberculous Milk.

I should like to know what could be done with a dairy where cows are

dying with tuberculosis and the owner knows, but is selling the milk.

The case should be reported to F. W. Andreason, Secretary of the State

Dairy Bureau, at San Francisco, for investigation by an inspector. If

conditions are found as represented, the sale of milk will be prevented,

as it is contrary to State law to sell milk from sick cows. County

boards of health have also authority to prevent the sale of such milk in

the county on the ground that this is a menace to the public health.

Effects of Ill-Feeding Pigs.

I have a couple of pigs, out of about 75 head farrowed last spring,

which seem to have the staggers. They are looking fairly well, feed well

on pasture and at feeding time are right there making as much noise as

the others. They run around as if they had a shot too much.

Your pigs are suffering from acute indigestion, undoubtedly due to

improper feeding. Cut down the rations, especially if they are getting

grain. Give sick pigs two tablespoonfuls of castor oil each.

Sore Eyes in Pigs.

What is the matter with young pigs when their eyes swell shut? Before

they shut they look as if there was a white milky scum over them.

There is some infection present, and a good cleaning up in needed. The

sows and pigs should be dipped in a warm solution of some coal-tar

disinfectant, and the quarters thoroughly cleaned and disinfected or

changed to a dry warm place. The pigs' eyes should be washed with warm

water and a few drops of the following solution dropped into eyes once a

day for a few days: Have druggist prepare a 1 per cent solution of

silver nitrate. After applying this the eyes had better be washed a few

minutes later with water to which a little common salt has been added.

Hog Cholera.

I have a number of pigs which have been ailing for three weeks or so.

They discharge a yellowish kind of manure at times, running of the

bowels. The most striking symptom seems to be a partial paralysis of the

hindquarters. The hogs will be walking along and seem to lose control of

their hing legs. It seems to be spreading to the other hogs and a number

have already died. Their appetite is poor.

This is undoubtedly hog cholera. The owner should appeal to the

Experiment Station at Berkeley for serum and treat all well hogs and

clean up as thoroughly as possible. The matter should also be reported

to the State Veterinarian at Sacramento.

Pneumonia in Pigs.

What is the disease which may be said to confine itself, with few

exceptions, to young pigs weighing 100 pounds or less? Its symptoms are

at first sneezing and a mild cough. These quickly change to hard

coughing and labored breathing, which as the disease progresses shows

evidence of much pain. The appetite is lost and the eyes become gummed

and inflamed. In some cases the pig lingers on for weeks, while in

others death occurs almost immediately. Vomiting sometimes occurs.

It is pneumonia and in its treatment "an ounce of prevention is worth a

pound of cure." Once pneumonia gets a foothold in a hog, the chances are

so strongly in favor of death that recovery may be considered out of the

question. Since remedies are not certain in the cure of pneumonia, it

will be found that the prevention of the disease is the only real way to

combat it. The main causes of the disease are exposure to draughts,

sudden changes in temperature, damp beds, manure heaps as sleeping

quarters, and exposure to the disease itself. Pigs in thin condition or

weak constitutionally are more liable to contract the trouble than pigs

in good flesh and healthy specimens. Good, dry, warm, comfortable

sleeping houses, well ventilated and so arranged as to prevent crowding

and piling up, will, I think, do more to prevent pneumonia than any

other one thing. Some such preparation as advocated by the Government

for the prevention of hog cholera will help keep the stock in a good

healthy condition, the better to combat exposure. It is the little

attentions that keep the herd healthy and in a vigorous condition, and

by using simple preventatives, remedies will he found unnecessary. - H.

B. Wintringham.

General Prescription for Hog Sickness.

My hogs seem to be mangy and scabby, but am unable to find any lice on

them. They eat well, but vomit a good deal and are falling off in flesh.

They may be affected with a chronic type of cholera, and this should be

determined by some one who can see the hogs. Make a general cleaning up

of the hogs and quarters, using a dip and repeating in ten days. Hogs

have a true mange as well as other animals. A change of feed may also be

needed, depending on what is being fed and how the hogs are managed.

Green alfalfa pasture with a moderate feed of shorts or middlings of

wheat and ground barley made into a slop would be a good ration.

Evidently there is some digestive trouble here, and a dose of croton oil

(3 drops) mixed in a teaspoonful of raw linseed oil for each hog would

be beneficial. Charcoal, ashes, salt and a little epsom salts would be

of benefit to tone the digestion. The oil should be carefully mixed in

the slop.

Pigs Out of Condition.

Of a litter of pigs weaned about a month several of them have itchy

scabs on their legs, ears and noses, and those having white feet show

reddish spots through the hoofs. They did not get it until after they

were weaned. They are fed on soaked whole barley and have alfalfa

pasture.

Put the pigs on a slop composed of wheat middlings and barley ground

fine, with the hulls removed, and milk, or, in the absence of milk about

8 or 10 per cent of meat meal to which add some good stock food. Dip

them with some standard brand of dip or apply crude oil to be sure that

they were free from lice, fleas, etc. Give them good, clean, comfortable

sleeping quarters and trust to nature to do the rest.

Paralysis of Sow.

During the last few days one of my sows appears to be paralyzed in her

hind quarters and now cannot use her hind legs at all. She is about a

year old and is due to farrow her first litter in and about six weeks.

It is paralysis due to advanced pregnancy. Give 4 ounces castor oil and

4 ounces olive oil. She will recover after parturition.

Rickets in Hogs.

A fine boar, 16 months old, weight about 380 pounds, well built, with

little surplus fat, until lately has been very thrifty, but appears to

be losing control over his legs. Can't step over the smallest stick

without falling forward and acts like a foundered animal. He carries his

back rather arching since this trouble came on. During my absence from

home a hired man gave this boar a good beating with a pick handle, and

it appears to have been the beginning of his troubles.

This disease is Osteo Rachitis (rickets). The abuse has probably

aggravated the symptoms: This condition is due to a lack of hardening

principles in the bones. Give 4 ounces of cod liver oil daily and plenty

of lime water to drink. It will be all right to use him for breeding

when he recovers. In addition to good food and pure water give daily a

handful of a mixture of principally ashes and burned barley (charcoal)

with the usual addition of salt, sulphur and soda. This mixture is good:

Pulv. dried, iron sulphate, 4 ounces; soda bi-carbonate, 8 ounces; soda

salicylate, 2 drachms; pulv. aniseed, 4 ounces. Mix and give one-half

teaspoonful twice daily.

Pigs Losing Tails.

We have five pigs, 17 days old, and when they were farrowed they had

rings around the roots of their tails, and now their tails are dropping

off.

This is caused by interference with circulation before birth. Apply

tinct. iodine around the affected parts once daily and if it shows no

signs of improvement after one week amputate.

Over-Fat Sow.

My brood sow is awfully fat; how should I feed her so that she don't get

too fat? She is bred and it will be her third litter. She was running in

the vineyard all winter, and I fed her a handful of barley every day or

a few potatoes. Now she has free access to my growing barley field, and

I give her half a dozen potatoes every day.

You need not worry about getting her thin. She simply requires less

food. An animal excessively fat brings forth an inferior offspring.

Musty Corn for Pigs.

Would Egyptian corn that has been musty and then dried in the sun be fit

for pigs? It heated and musted quite a good deal, but is dried well. The

idea is, to grind it and then feed it in milk if good.

It is very dangerous to feed any stock moldy or musty food, especially

pregnant animals. It is this kind of food which causes a majority of the

abortions. Mold or smut in food is poisonous both to man and beast. It

is usually almost impossible to get out of feed because it runs

throughout the structure of the hay or grain.

Wounds and Wound Swellings.

What is the proper treatment for a fresh wire cut on a horse? How should

saddle galls be treated? Is there any way to make the hair come in its

natural color where saddle galls have been? How can an enlargement of a

colt's leg, caused from a wire cut, be reduced?

After all foreign matter has been removed from a lacerated wound, like

that made in a wire cut, the wound should be carefully fomented with

warm water, to which has been added carbolic acid in the proportion of 1

part to 100 of water. It should then be bandaged to prevent infection.

Zinc ointment would be a good thing to use under the bandage. For a

simple saddle, or harness gall, some ointment like the following should

be applied and the wound rested up: One pint alcohol in which are shaken

the whites of 2 eggs; a solution of nitrate of silver, 10 grains to the

ounce of water; sugar of lead or sulphate of zinc, 20 grains to an ounce

of water; and so on. Or advertised gall cures may be applied. If a

sitfest has developed, the dead hornlike slough must be cut out and the

wound treated with antiseptics. There is no way we know of to make hair

come in with natural color after a wound. The swelling on the colt's leg

may he reduced by rubbing it well several times a day and at night rub

in some 10 per cent iodine petrogen.

Fly Repellants.

Can you tell me what to use as a spray to kill the flies in my stable?

In the early, morning the ceiling and sides are thickly covered with the

pests partly dormant but not enough so that they can be swept down and

killed. What spray can I use that will destroy them?

It is difficult to kill flies by spraying them. You can, however, spray

the sides and ceiling of the barn with a spray of epsom salts (sulphate

of magnesia) using about a cupful to the gallon, which will prevent them

from gathering there. And since prevention is better than cure, flies

can be kept from gathering around by, destroying their breeding places,

if those are under one's control, by having all manure and litter

removed before the flies have a chance to develop. The following may be

found useful to readers as a spray to keep away flies: Fish oil, 2

quarts; kerosene, 1 quart; crude carbolic acid, 1 pint; oil of

pennyroyal, 1 ounce; oil of tar; 10 ounces. Mix thoroughly and apply in

a fine spray. The following has been successfully used to repel flies

from cows: Nitro benzine, 5 ounces; carbolic acid, 3 ounces; kerosene

oil, 3 ounces; sol. formaldehyde, 1 ounce; fish oil, 1 1/2 quarts. Mix

and just touch the hair with the mixture.

To Destroy Fleas.

My barn, is full, of fleas I tried to destroy them by using creso-dip,

but did not kill them, all.

Fleas can only be permanently checked by destroying their breeding

places which are in the dust! and dirt that accumulate in cracks and

corners around barns, sheds and dwellings. Follow the cleaning up with a

thorough distribution of flake naphthalene. This is most effective where

the stable or room can be closed tight for half a day, or even 24 hours;

An ingenious suggestion is made that if a sheep can be let run in and

around the buildings where the fleas breed, they will soon be less

numerous and as new batches hatch out the sheep will soon get them

picked up, and after a while the place will be entirely free of them.

But the sheep must be allowed to run all around the sheds and breeding

places, as the flea jumps up, gets into the wool, and can never get out

again. A hog can also be used as a flea trap. One reader says: Pour a

little of the crude oil on the hogs' heads and along their backs, about

a gill on each hog; This would run down the sides of the hogs and kill

all the fleas on them. The oil also remains on the hogs for several

days, and all the fleas that jump on the hogs from the ground stick fast

and never jump off again. In about three weeks the fleas all disappear

and the hogs look fine and sleek from the use of the oil.

Part VIII. Poultry Keeping

Largely compiled from the writings of Mrs. W. Russell James and Mrs.

Susan Swapgood.

Teaching Chicks to Perch.

What is a good method of breaking in young brooder chicks to use the

roosts?

At from six to eight weeks old the chicks should be taken from the

brooder quarters to the colony houses and range, or wherever they are to

be located, and at this time they should be taught to perch. Have the

new quarters arranged with low wide perches (1 by 3-inch scantlings);

also make slatted frames by nailing lath or other such narrow strips two

inches apart. Set these frames against the wall so that they will extend

slant-wise under the perches, and have the corners on the other side of

the room cut off by nailing boards across them. The chicks will run up

on the frame to find a huddling corner and land on the perches, as they

cannot rest on the open slanting frame. A little care for a few evenings

in putting up those that remain on the floor and straightening them out

on the perches will teach them the ropes. Where there are but a few to

be taught, all that is necessary is to provide the low wide perches and

shut out the corners, and a few of the smart ones will soon take to the

perches, and gradually others will follow until all will be roosting.

Liver Disease.

I have hens which seem well in every respect up to the time of their

combs changing color, when they die within three days. The combs turn a

faint yellow, almost white; they are heavy, have their usual appetite up

to the lost 24 hours. I have treated by giving small doses of castor oil

and Douglas mixture in the drinking water, feeding on dry mash with

plenty of green feed. There is no tendency to lameness nor limp neck.

The droppings are loose and very white.

The fowls were victims of jaundice, which is a form of liver disease and

caused by over-feeding on rich starchy foods that also cause fowls to

become overfat. However, at the end of the laying season and the

beginning of the molt the poultry keeper will lose some hens, even when

kept under the best conditions, and especially hens of that age. In

doctoring such cases in the way described, if the fowl does not improve

in a couple of days, the hatchet cure is the most profitable.

Rupture of Oviduct.

I have had two other hens die suddenly when on the nest. The second one

- we opened and found one egg broken near the vent and another with

shell formed ready to be laid.

Rupture of the oviduct was probably the cause of the hens dying on the

nest and is due to the same condition in the hens; that is, the

straining to expel the egg necessary in the engorged condition of the

internal organs from overfatness.

Melons for Fowls.

Have "stock melons" or "citrons" any merit as a green food for laying

hens? Are the seeds of the above injurious to hens or cows?

Stock melons are desirable for chicken feeding if other succulent

materials are scarce, but they are inferior to alfalfa and other

clovers. Seeds are not injurious to stock unless possibly one should

feed to excess by separating them from the other tissues. If melons are

fed as they grow, no apprehension need be had from injury by seed.

Rape and Vetch for Chickens.

What time do you sow rape and vetch and are they good for chickens?

They surely are good for chickens or for any other stock that likes

greens. They are winter growers in California valleys and should be sown

in the fall as soon as the land is moist enough to keep them growing, or

just as soon as you can get it moist either by rainfall or irrigation.

Neither plant likes dry heat or dry soil.

Preserving Eggs.

What is a good way to preserve eggs for home use?

In a cool cellar, eggs will keep very well in a mixture of common salt

and bran. Use equal parts, mix well, and as you gather the eggs from day

to day pack with big end down in the mixture and see that the eggs are

covered. Waterglass eggs are good enough for cooking purposes, but when

boiled anyone that knows the taste of a strictly fresh egg can tell the

difference in an instant; when fried the taste is not so pronounced, but

it is there just the same; besides, when broken, they are a little

watery. This watery condition passes off if left to stand for a few

minutes. The best way is to use the waterglass method, is one quart of

waterglass to ten quarts of water. Boil the water and put away to cool,

when cold add the waterglass, mixing well, and store in 3 or 5-gallon

crocks in a cool place. They will keep six months if good when put in.

In all cases the eggs must be gathered very fresh, for one stale egg

will spoil the whole lot, so great care is needed.

Dipping Fowls.

How do you dip hens to kill lice?

To dip fowls you must have a very warm day, or a warm room where you can

turn them in to dry. I have know people to use tobacco stems, but it

requires good judgment as to the right strength to use. The dips usually

sold already prepared are safer, in my opinion, because they give

directions as to quantity. Get a can of "zenoleum" or "creolium" -

either is good - and have the water a little over blood-heat to

commence; be very careful that the liquid does not get in the fowl's

throat. If there are no directions with the cans, put enough in to make

the water quite milky and strong smelling. It is best to make the hen

sit down and with a sponge wet the back and head thoroughly, then under

the wings and breast; if there are nits, don't be in a hurry to take

the hen out, but let the dip get to the nits and skin on the abdomen. If

the water is too warm it will be dangerous, as some fowls have weak

hearts; that is the only danger, providing you dry them quickly.

Cure for Feather-Eating.

What is the cure for feather-eating?

Feather eating is the result of idleness or a shortage of green feed.

The best way to cure it is to furnish the fowls with exercise. Boil some

oats until soft, and when cooked stir in salt enough to taste and about

a quart of good beef scrap; feed this for breakfast several mornings

together. Make them scratch for the rest of their food in deep litter

and give them sour milk to drink if you have it. If sour milk is not

available, put a tablespoonful of flowers of sulphur in the boiled oats.

The object is to cool the blood and furnish exercise. See that the fowls

are supplied with mineral matter, such ash shells, bone meal and some,

sand if it can be had. It is surprising the amount of sand that chickens

will eat when carried to them in yards, so there must be a necessity for

it, and if they cannot get to it, it pays to carry a good box full once

in a while.

Cannibal Chicks.

What can I do to cure my chicks of eating each other?

Some kind of animal food is necessary when the chicks begin to pick

toes, wings and vents. But the meat must always be cooked, the least bit

of raw meat drives them wild as does the blood they can bring on each

other. For that reason a strict watch must be kept to detect any case

before blood is brought. Remove all weak chicks as they always go for

the weakest, and as soon as one chick is picked on for a victim, remove

it at once. Some people paint the toes with tar or liquid lice paint,

but I have had the best success with bitter aloes mixed with water. A

nickel's worth covers a lot of toes. It is best to buy a powder, then

dissolve in a little water and paint wings, vent and toes. They won't

take many pecks at them when they find they are so bitter.

Sunflower Seeds for Poultry.

What is the food value of sunflower seed as a ration for fowls, mostly

laying hens? Should it be fed whole or crushed?

Sunflower seed is rich in oil, having the same proportion as flaxseed;

otherwise it rates in value the same as grain. A little, not too much,

fed whole is well relished by fowls and is said to give luster to the

plumage in fitting birds for shows. Sunflower is greatly overrated for

poultry purposes. It is an ungainly plant of no use for forage and its

seed is so well liked by the sparrows that the only way to keep them

till ripe is to cover the heads with netting.

Clipping Hens for Cleanliness.

My hens foul all the feathers below the vent; they appear healthy, but

do not look nice. What can I do?

Take a pair of scissors and clip the fluff away from that part of the

abdomen, give a teaspoonful of olive oil, and notice of they have any

discharge that is of an offensive color or odor. Sometimes it is nothing

but pure laziness with hens of the large breeds that causes this matting

together of the fluff below the vent. We rarely see hens of the small

breeds so affected. Whenever a hen soils her feathers clip her at once,

and, in fact, it is a good custom to follow in any case. When hens are

very heavily fluffed it interferes with the fertility of the eggs. In

such cases there is not anything for it but the scissors.

Bowel Trouble in Chicks.

What is the cause of bowel trouble in young chicks, and what to do for

it?

Bowel trouble in very young chicks is usually caused by a chill. It is

very hard for us here to believe chicks get chilled because, not feeling

the cold ourselves, we forget that chicks have really undergone a

violent change from incubator to the outside atmosphere. In the Eastern

States, great care is exercised in moving chicks from incubator to

brooder oven, and also in seeing that the brooder itself is warm and fit

to receive the chicks. But we are, as a rule, very careless in these

little matters and the chicks feel the change and suffer from bowel

trouble. Sometimes, of course, the trouble may be traced to the food,

but more often it comes from a chill. The best way to cure it is to

remove the chicks to new ground at once, or if in a brooder, clean it

out well and spray with some disinfectant. Boil all the water that is

given to the chicks and feed boiled rice once or twice a day in which a

little cinnamon is mixed. Do not put in too much or they will not eat

it, keep all meat away and just feed dry chick feed and boiled rice. No

oatmeal or any other cereal but the rice; if chicks won't eat it, feed

dry chick feed and boiled water and a little lettuce.

Quick Roosters and Laying Hens.

How can I get the young roosters off quick and the hens to lay in

winter?

These two happy results come from correct methods of poultry keeping

from the ground up. To get the cockerels off quick, they must be hatched

from strong-germed eggs, incubated properly and kept growing from the

first jump out of the shell. To get eggs in winter the pullets must come

from the same conditions. Very few hens will lay in the early winter

under any conditions. The pullets must be depended upon for that season

and the hens kept properly will drop in some time in January.

Poultry Tonic.

What is a good poultry tonic?

The following is a very good tonic for general purposes: Tincture of red

cinchona, 1 fluid ounce; tincture of chloride of iron, 1 fluid drachm;

tincture of flux vomica, 4 fluid drachms; glycerine 2 ounces; water, 2

ounces. Mix and give one teaspoonful to a quart of water, allowing no

other drink.

Poultry in the Orchard.

Kindly advise me about keeping hens in an orchard. I would like to know

if they will injure the trees in any way if kept in large numbers. In

what way would they benefit the trees?

From the point of view of the trees there is no doubt that they would be

advantaged by the presence of the poultry, providing the coops are not

allowed to interfere with the proper irrigation and cultivation. If it

is practicable to handle the fowls in coops without causing the soil

around the coops to become compacted by continual tramping, and if they

are not kept upon the ground long enough to cause an excessive

application of hen manure, which is very concentrated and stimulating,

the result would unquestionably be beneficial. From the point of view of

the tree, this benefit of injury would depend upon how long the fowls

were kept around the tree and the maintenance of them in such a way that

the soil should not become out of condition physically or too rich

chemically for the satisfactory performance of the tree. If they can be

moved frequently, and if they are only put in place when the soil is in

such condition that tramping around the coops will not seriously compact

it, the presence of fowls would be an advantage. On the other hand, if

the coops are to be kept in place for a long time and all the ground

outside of them crusted and hardened by tramping and the soil under the

coops overloaded with droppings, the thrift and value of the trees will

be seriously interfered with.

Caponizing.

Can three to four month old cockerels be caponized successfully in

summer, and if so, what care, feed, etc., do they require afterwards?

The birds should be between two to three months, not over four, unless

some very large variety that matures slowly. Size is equally important

as age, and a bird to be caponized should not weigh more than one and a

half pounds. The work can be successfully done in the summer season, but

the fowl must be kept without food or drink for at least 24 hours,

longer is better and keep in shady place. After caponizing, feed the

bird what soft feed he will eat up and let him have plenty of water.

Then leave him to himself as he will be his own doctor. In two or three

days look them over and if there are any wind-balls, simply prick with a

needle to let the air out; this may have to be done two or three times

before the wound heals up, but after it has healed, treat just as you

would other chickens and feed them about twice a day. There is nothing

made by trying to rush nature; it takes fifteen months to grow a good

capon of the large breeds.

Roup Treatment.

Up to a week ago the chickens had been exceptionally well in every way.

Now they seem to have a cold and a running at the nose and with it a bad

odor. It was suggested that this might be the beginning of roup, but I

see no swell-head.

The distinguishing characteristic of roup is not so-called "swell head"

or other form of cold, but the offensive roupy odor. When the cold has

reached this stage it is a pronounced case of roup, and highly

contagious. Separate all the ailing fowls and segregate them in

comfortable hospital quarters, warm but with one side partly open for

fresh air. Disinfect the quarters of the well fowls by spraying with

distillate or cheap-grade coal oil and sprinkling the floors and about

the houses with air-slaked lime. Use some simple remedy like coal oil or

permanganate of potash to cleanse the throat and nostrils. With coal

oil, first wipe the eyes and bill with a clean cloth dipped in the coal

oil, then inject with a sewing-machine oil can enough coal oil to

open and thoroughly clean out the nostrils. If the throat is affected,

give a tablespoonful of sweet oil and coal oil, half and half, two or

three times a day until relieved. One of our correspondents has sent us

the following treatment with permanganate of potash which he has found

the best roup remedy he has ever tried: Dissolve 1 ounce of permanganate

of potash in 3 pints of water, hold the fowl's head in this for a

second, then open the beak and rinse out the mouth in the solution. Wipe

with a clean, soft cloth and apply a very little witch hazel or

carbolated salve to the eyes, nostrils and head. Repeat the operation as

often as the throat and head become clogged with mucus. Until the

disease is eliminated from the premises, keep permanganate of potash in

the drinking water of all the fowls, both sick and well. About 1 ounce

to each 2 gallons of water or enough to give the water a claret color.

The sick fowls should be allowed no other feed but a little stimulating

mash three times a day. Where the fowls do not show a decided

improvement in the course of a few days, or where the disease has

assumed a violent form, all such birds should be killed and the bodies

burned at once.

Bad Food for Chickens.

My chicks are about three weeks old and have always been strong and

sturdy, but when taken sick first appear a little dumpish, then the head

seems a little heavy and the neck lengthens out. As the disease advances

they become staggery.

Your chicks have eaten soured food, decayed vegetables or tainted meat.

Baby chicks are just like other babies and the same care should be used

that their food be always sweet and fresh. Wet food should never be

given chicks, nor raw meat nor anything the least bit tainted or stale.

Put a teaspoon of coal oil in each pint of drinking water and see to it

that the latter is kept pure and cool. Mix a teacup of sulphur with

enough bran or shorts for each 100 chicks, moisten with sweet milk and

feed it on clean boards, what the chicks will eat up clean in some,

twenty minutes. Give them one feed of this each day for three days if

the weather is dry. Clean the brooders and runs daily, then dust white

with air-slacked lime and cover the lime with a sprinkling of clean

sand. Rake and clean up the yards where they range and never let them

eat any of their grain or food out of dirt and filth. You cannot doctor

such small chicks and must depend upon the coal oil in the drinking

water. Keep the water fresh, but add the coal oil until the chicks are

relieved.

Open-Front Chicken Houses.

In what direction shall I face open-front poultry houses?

North or northeast is the proper direction to face the open fronts of

poultry houses and coops in the Pacific Coast climate. The prevailing

winds are from the south and southeast in the winter, and from the west

and southwest in the summer. The occasional north winds or "northers,"

may be called dry winds, in fact, are an indication of dry weather, and

so do not harm the fowls even when cold. We like the upper half of the

north-end or slide of our poultry houses open with inch-mesh covering

the open space and the eaves extending several inches as a protection.

In case of an unusual storm from that direction, one thickness of burlap

may be tacked to the edge of the extending eaves, and to the lower part

of the opening. This will admit plenty of fresh air while breaking the

force of the wind. We also have a large trap door for the use of the

fowls, in the solid lower part of the open end, and the large door, for

cleaning and sunning the house, in the west side.

A Point on Mating.

I have fine roosters a year old this April; would you advise keeping

them for mating with the same hens next season, or do you advise selling

each year and getting fresh stock?

The young males will be all right to mate with the same hens next season

- that is, if they come through the molt with vigor. They will be just

two years old and at their best. The molt is the test for both, hens and

cocks. If they show no signs of ailing or weakness during that period,

it is proof of the proper stamina and vigor.

Age for Mating.

At what age may a cockerel be mated with hens?

From nine months to a year is the proper age to mate a Leghorn cockerel.

Cockerels of the larger breeds should not be mated before a year old.

White-Yolk Eggs.

Why are eggs watery and light-colored?

The trouble is in the feed somewhere. Too much green feed, especially

green feed that springs from wet, soggy ground, will sometimes make the

eggs watery. Or if you are feeding more mash feed than dry grain, it

will have that tendency. Some people claim that the feed a hen eats does

not affect the egg at all; but if it does not, why do eggs differ in

color and quality? Eggs that are laid by hens fed wholly on wheat, or

the by-products of wheat, such as bran, shorts or middlings, all have a

pale yolk. Now feed the hens some green feed - any kind will do - and

the eggs from the same hens will have a yolk several degrees or shades

darker.

Poultry Diarrhea.

Will you kindly tell me the cause and cure for bowel trouble among hens?

The "quick cure" for chick diarrhea has not yet been found. Prevention

is the only sure remedy. The first treatment in diarrhea (which must not

be confused with simple looseness of the bowels) should be a mild physic

to clean out the digestive tract. Epsom salts is probably best for this

purpose where a number of fowls are to be treated. This is usually given

in the drinking water, but Dr. Morse, who has charge of the

investigation of poultry diseases in the Bureau of Animal Industry,

gives the following directions for administering the salts: "Clean out

by giving epsom salts in an evening mash, estimating one-third to

one-half teaspoonful to each adult bird, or a teaspoonful to each six

half-grown chicks, carefully proportioning the amount of mash to the

appetite of the birds, so that the whole will be eaten up quickly." For

a few days afterward, feed only lightly with dry grain and tender

greens, such as fresh-cut mustard and lettuce leaves. Keep plenty of

pure, cool water, with just a thin skim of coal oil - one drop to each

pint - for drinking; also plenty of sharp grit and fresh charcoal broken

to the size of grains of wheat.

Limber-Neck.

A very peculiar disease is taking off my fowls. The head of the fowl

bends down to the breast and the fowl looks like dead, there is also a

slight discharge from the mouth. The head and tail droop and if the fowl

could stand up they would almost touch.

When a fowl loses partial or entire control of the muscles of the neck

the common name of the affection is limber-neck. In medical science

limber-neck is regarded as a symptom rather than a disease, and may be

due to a number of causes, such as derangement of the digestive organs,

intestinal worms and ptomaine poisoning. The affected fowls should be

given immediately a full tablespoon of fresh melted lard or sweet oil,

to which has been added a scant teaspoonful, of coal oil. In an hour

repeat the dose. For a few days the fowls should be fed on some light

food, such as shorts scalded with sweet milk in which has been dissolved

a level teaspoonful of baking soda to every pint of milk, and also

allowed plenty of crisp, tender lettuce or similar greens. A little

Epsom salts should be added to the drinking water for a few days. This

treatment, if resorted to at the start, will be effectual, but if the

poisoning has had its course long, nothing will save the bird.

Chicken Pox.

My one and two-year-old fowls are getting scabby combs. It starts with a

round blackish spot and swells into many spots, finally nearly covering

one side of the comb. Sometimes accompanying this is the closing of one

eye, and later both eyes.

The trouble is chicken pox, which is a very contagious disease. A

treatment which has been successful consists in bathing the sores with

strong salt and water and giving the fowls a mash containing one

teaspoonful of calcium sulphide for each 25 hens. With a large flock of

hens the method successfully employed by one of the large coast ranches

in stamping out an epidemic of the disease was to place a sulphur

smudge, to which had been added a little carbolic acid, in the poultry

house after the fowls had gone to roost. This was allowed to remain till

the fowls began to sneeze, when it was instantly removed. The affected

fowls were also treated by dipping the heads in a solution of

permanganate of potash.

Roup in Turkeys.

My turkeys have a disease that is spreading rapidly. They commence with

a running at the nose, have swelling under the eyes which are filled

with pus.

This is clearly a case of cold developing into roup. Get one ounce of

permanganate of potash and pour a quart of boiling water over; after it

is cold, bottle for use. Now take an old tin can, three parts full of

warm, not hot water, and drop in enough of the permanganate of potash to

make it dark red. Hold the turk's head under in this can until it needs

breath then give it time to breathe, and dip again. Press the fingers

along the swollen parts towards the nostrils and get out all the pus you

can, then take a sewing-machine oil can and fill it with a little of the

mixture, and part olive oil, inject the liquid up the nostrils and in

the cleft of the mouth. Put a little of the permanganate in the drinking

water for all the flock. Make the water a light red, later it will turn

to a dirty brown, but don't mind that.

Disinfectants.

What can I use to disinfect poultry belongings?

Sulphuric acid spray is good, but you will need to be very careful that

you do not get it on the hands or clothing. Get 16 ounces sulphuric acid

(50 per cent solution), water 6 gallons. Have the water in a wooden tub

or barrel and add the sulphuric acid to the water very slowly, in order

not to splash it on the flesh or clothes. But mind: nothing but wooden

vessels to mix it in. When made according to directions, and of this

strength it is a very valuable disinfectant, but is dangerous to use of

any stronger mixing. After mixing, it can be stored in glass bottles or

earthenware jugs. Another very good disinfectant for poultry houses and

runs is the formaldehyde disinfectant. Formaldehyde 1 pint (40 per

cent), water 2 gallons. This is fine for houses that you can shut up.

Turn the fowls out of the building, close all windows, and spray

thoroughly, then close the door and leave it do the work. Air well by

opening windows and door several hours before the fowls go to roost.

Cloth for Brooding Houses.

Would some good grade of white cloth on a frame do as well, or would it

be better than glass, for a brooder house, or would it keep out too much

sun-heat?

Cheesecloth, not heavy cloth, would be better than glass, so far as the

sun is concerned. There would be none of the overheating during the

middle of the day followed by the chilling at night which are caused by

a large expanse of glass. On the other hand, there should not be

openings on opposite sides of the house to create a draft. Also, the rat

and vermin question must be considered. It might be necessary to have

wire screens made to fit firmly over the cloth at night.

Grains for Chickens.

What variety of grain adopted for poultry food will be the best to grow,

with and also without irrigation?

Wheat is a standard grain for poultry feeding, and Egyptian corn is also

largely used. Indian corn is also satisfactory, under the general roles

for compounding poultry rations which are laid down by all authorities

on the subject. Egyptian corn is very successful in the interior parts

of the State, and, on lands which are winter-plowed and harrow to retain

moisture, very satisfactory results can be secured by summer growth

without irrigation from planting as soon as frost danger is over.

Plucking Ducks and Geese.

I would like to know about how, when and how often to pick old ducks so

as to get the feathers for pillows and not kill the ducks, either. Will

they lay any eggs while growing new feathers?

Neither ducks nor geese should be plucked until after the laying season

is over, which will be in July. Just before the moult, when the feathers

begin to loosen, they may be plucked again. Those most considerate of

their birds make only this latter plucking, which does not greatly

inconvenience the fowls. At no time must they be plucked unless the

feathers are "ripe"; that is, dry at the root, so that no bleeding or

injury to the skin is caused. An old stocking is drawn over the head of

the victim, and the bird held in the plucker's lap on a burlap apron;

then the soft feathers on the body are quickly and very gently removed;

but those on the side of the body which support the wings should not be

taken. Great care should be exercised not to injure the skin or

pinfeathers or pull the down. To grow new feathers quickly and resume

laying are matters which depend largely upon the condition of the bird

and the feed. The latter should consist of some 15 per cent of animal

food.

Feeding Hens for Hatching Eggs.

Should soft feed be given to the mothers of chicks intended for

broilers? How about dry mash? How would you advise feeding animal

protein?

Cut out all ground feed, except perhaps a little wheat bran. While you

may not get quite as many eggs, they will all have good strong germs and

the chicks will stand forcing to the limit, while if you force the egg

output you reduce the vitality of the germs and livability of chicks

hatched. The only way to feed hens whose eggs are intended for hatching

chicks for broilers is to feed whole grain and make them exercise for

it, good green feed, or, better still, sprouted oats, and feed beef

scrap in a hopper all the time. At first, while it is new, they may eat

more than you would give them but don't mind that they will regulate the

quantity in a few days better than you can. Get a good grade of beef

scrap and keep it in a hopper that will not let rain in or keep it under

cover and feed all the wheat and oats they require; if you are short on

green feed give them a bale of alfalfa hay to work on.

A Dry Mash.

Will you give a formula for a dry mash?

Wheat bran, 500 pounds; middlings, 200 pounds; cracked corn, 200 pounds;

charcoal, 20 pounds; alfalfa meal 200 pounds; bone meal, 150 pounds;

blood-meal 100 pounds; meat cracklings, if ground, 200 pounds; ground

oats or barley, 300 pounds. Give oyster shell separately and supply

fowls with good sharp grit.

Depluming Mites.

My chickens are losing the feathers from their necks, some three inches

down the front and then extending around the neck.

The loss of feathers is probably due to the depluming mite. Dust well

with buhach through the feathered portion of the bird and apply

carbolated vaseline to the bare skin and the edges of the feathers where

the insects work. Do this daily as long as needed. When vaseline is not

on hand, a mixture of coal oil and sweet oil applied with a soft sponge

squeezed nearly dry does as well. We would advise that you make a

general cleaning and spraying of your poultry quarters, nest boxes, etc.

Part IX. Pests and Diseases of Plants

Control of Grasshoppers.

This county is having trouble with the grasshoppers as are other

counties. Would you kindly inform me what I could do to exterminate them

on my young orchard?

The best thing for grasshoppers is to fix up a lot of poison. This is

made in the proportion of 40 pounds of bran, 2 pounds of molasses and 5

of arsenic, mixed together as a mash. They will take this wherever they

find it, even when nice green leaves are close by, but it has to be kept

moist. Grasshoppers can also be reduced by driving a "hopper doser" over

ground where they are. This is made somewhat like a Fresno scraper, but

is much longer and the bottom is covered with crude oil. When disturbed

the hoppers jump up and fall into the oil. Besides the poison, you

should also protect the trunk of the tree to prevent the hoppers from

climbing up it. This can be done by applying tree tanglefoot, or putting

on one of the tree guards that prevent climbing insects from passing up

to the leaves. The combination of poison and tree guards will give you

about all the protection you need.

Sunburn and Borers.

Please state the best remedy for keeping the borer out of young fruit

trees.

Sunburn can be prevented in many ways. The manufactured tree-protectors

are good if they are light colored and are kept in place so that the sun

does not scald above or below them. Wrapping spirally with narrow strips

of burlap, torn from old grain sacks, from the base to the forking of

the branches, is also good. A very effective and widely used method is

to apply a good durable whitewash which may be made of 30 pounds of

lime, 4 pounds of tallow and 5 pounds of salt, adding the salt to the

water used in slaking the lime, stirring in the tallow while the slaking

is in progress and hot, and then adding water to thin the wash so that

it will work well with pump or brush.

Gumming of Prune Trees.

I write to ask for information concerning my prune trees. They are from

two to six years old and the gum is exuding from them. As I notice the

branches dying I cut them out, but this doesn't seem to save the tree. I

would appreciate any information you can give me.

This is a pretty hard matter to diagnose from a distance. There is a

good probability that the trouble is caused by sunburn, a point you

could determine on inspection. Whitewash would be a protection against

this and more or less of a cure also. Furthermore, borers may be the

cause, which can be determined by examining the points where the gum

exudes, seeing if any wood grains are present. These borers should be

dug out and whitewash applied, which latter also protects against this

trouble. Lastly, your ground may be drying out, which also you can

determine and remedy.

Borers in Olive Twigs.

There are quite a number of olive trees in this locality that have

something wrong with them. They make a growth of five or six inches and

the center twig dies back, then it sprouts out at the sides and makes

another growth in the same way. This makes a thick bush instead of the

tree coming up as it should.

The dying back is caused by a beetle which bores into the twigs. The

twigs above the point where the beetle enters dies and then, of course,

buds come out from healthy wood below. No treatment has been devised

against it, though its breeding ground is limited if all dead wood and

brush and litter is cleaned up and twigs are cut off below the point of

injury whenever the work of the insect is seen.

Raspberry Cane Borer.

Can you tell me what to do for my Loganberries and raspberries? A small

worm got into them in the new growth of wood lost summer, right in the

tips of the new growth of wood, and then worked down through the pith of

the wood, and as fast as they worked down the can wilted.

This is the raspberry horn-tail, or the cane-borer. The adults are

wasp-like insects about a half-inch long and very active. They come out

of the canes in spring and the females soon lay eggs in the tender tips

of the young shoots. These eggs soon hatch and the larvae eat their way

up toward the tip, which causes it to wither and die. It is this injury

that causes much notice. As the tip dies, the larvae turn and go down

into the canes, as in the sample sent, also injuring them greatly,

though possibly not killing them for some time. The only way to attack

them is to pinch the spots where the eggs were laid; then those that

escape and cause the tips to wilt should be destroyed by cutting off the

tips below the point of injury or cutting off the canes when they show

damage. Likewise, the insects work on the wild rose, and cutting all

those out around a place will prevent enough adults from developing to

permit little damage to be done, always provided the berries are well

looked after.

Control of Red Spider.

Can you give directions for the prevention of injury by the red spider

to almond and other trees in the Sacramento volley?

The red spider on almond and prune trees is usually controlled by the

thorough application of dry sulphur to the foliage. On almonds the first

sulphuring should be done as soon as the leaves appear in March. A

second application is advised from the 1st to the 10th of May. A third

application should be made from the 1st to the 10th of June. Prune trees

should be treated as soon as the spider appears. In the Sacramento

valley this usually occurs about the first week of July. Full-grown

trees require about a pound of sulphur which should be thoroughly

distributed throughout the foliage. The old method of throwing a handful

of sulphur in the branches of the tree or on the ground under the tree

is valueless. The use of a blower is economical in large orchards, but a

can with perforated bottom is frequently used on young trees or small

orchards with good results. In normal seasons the spider is easily,

controlled by dry sulphuring. When the pest does not yield to this

treatment, a spray is recommended.

Liquid Spray for Red Spider.

Is there any liquid spray I can use in my spraying that will kill the

red spider without injuring the foliage of the almond?

A liquid spray for red spider is made by taking sulphur 30 pounds; lime

(reduced to milk form by water), 15 pounds; water, 200 gallons; or use

commercial lime-sulphur, 4 or 5 gallons to 200 gallons of water. These

sprays can be applied without injuring the foliage. They are more

expensive in labor cost than dry sulphuring, but are more effective.

Apple-Leaf Aphis.

I am sending herewith a small piece from one of my young apple trees. If

you can, will you kindly tell me what the insects are an it, and what I

had better do for them?

The apple twig which you send is infested with the eggs of the leaf

aphis or leaf louse. These eggs are very difficult to kill. A good

thorough spraying with lime-sulphur might, however, get rid of many of

them and would be good for the trees otherwise - diluting according to

condition of tree growth. The chief campaign against the leaf aphis,

however, must be made early in the growing season, just as these pests

are beginning to hatch out and to accumulate under the leaves of the new

growth. They should then be attacked with properly made kerosene

emulsion or tobacco extract with a nozzle suited to land the spray on

the under side of the leaves. Unless these pests are attacked early in

the season and repeated if necessary, your apples on bearing trees will

be ruined so far as they attack them, being small, misshaped and

worthless. On young trees the destruction of the foliage is fatal to

good growth.

Woolly Aphis.

Will you kindly inform me what you consider the best treatment for apple

trees affected by woolly aphis?

The best way to kill the woolly aphis on the roots is to remove the

earth from around the tree to a distance of one or two feet, according

to the size of the tree, digging away a few inches of the surface soil,

Then soak the soil around the tree with kerosene emulsion, properly

made, of 15 per cent strength, and replace the earth. Be sure you get a

good emulsion, for free oil is dangerous. For the insects above ground

on the twigs, a good spraying while the tree is out of leaf will kill

many, but some will survive for summer spraying, and for this a tobacco

spray may be most convenient.

Blister Mite on Walnuts.

I am sending you some walnut leaves with some swellings an them. They

are very plentiful on some trees here. Is the trouble serious and will

it spread?

This is merely Erinose, or Blister Mite, which is a very common trouble

on walnuts, but does not do enough damage to call for methods of

control. These swellings are caused by numerous, very small insects

which live within the blisters on the under side of the leaf amongst a

felt-like, heavy growth which develops there. While this effect is very

common, it produces no appreciable injury and needs no treatment for its

control.

Scale on Apricots.

I would like to know how to check the scale on apricot trees.

The most common scale on apricots, the brown apricot scale, is usually

held in check by the comys fusca, which is as widely distributed as the

scale itself. If it gets beyond the parasite, you should spray in winter

with crude oil emulsion. If some scales are punctured or have a black

spot on top, the comys fusca is busy and you probably will be safe

enough without doing anything.

Fumigating for Black Scale.

I would like to know the best method of eradicating the black scale from

my orange trees, whether by spraying or fumigation?

Spraying has been given up as a suitable method for controlling the

black scale on citrus trees, and the only recognized method of merit

where the scale is bad is by fumigation with hydrocyanic acid gas. You

should communicate with your county horticultural commissioner, who,

through inspectors, will see that you have a good job done, at the right

time and at as moderate price as is compatible with good work. It is

impossible to 'eradicate' the black scale, but there is a great

difference in the amount that can be killed, and it pays to have a job

done as near perfectly as possible. Similar methods of attacking other

scale insects on citrus trees are used.

Finding Thrips.

How can the presence of pear thrips be detected in a prune orchard? Will

the distillate emulsion-nicotine spray control brown scale as well as

thrips?

You can find thrips by shaking a cluster of blossoms, as soon as they

open, over a sheet of paper or in the palm of your hand. The thrips are

very minute, transparent, somewhat louse-like insects. The spray you

mention would probably have little effect on the brown scale which would

still be in the egg state and under cover, at the time the early spring

spraying for the thrips.

Control of Pear Slug.

I am sending, under separate cover, some samples of cherry tree leaves

that have been attacked by a small snail or slug. Kindly let me know

what they are, and how to rid the trees of them.

The creatures you speak of are the pear slugs, or the cherry slugs, as

they are sometimes known. Although slimy, like the big yellow slug that

is a pest in vegetable gardens, it is no relation thereto, but is the

larva of an insect. Its olive green color, slimy appearance and the way

it eats the surface of the leaves make it about the easiest of all

insects to identify. Parasites and predacious insects usually keep it in

fair control. Whenever artificial methods of control are needed the

slugs can best be destroyed by sprinkling dust of any kind upon them. If

you can get a machine for sulphuring a vineyard and use some air slaked

lime or other fine dust, it will fix them quickly and inexpensively,

though any way of applying dust may be used.

Cutworms and Young Trees.

What method should be used to protect young fruit trees from cutworms?

Hoe around the trees or vines and kill the fat, greasy grubs which you

will find near the foliage. Put out a poisoned bait which the worms like

better than the foliage, viz. Bran, 10 pounds; white arsenic, 1/2 pound;

molasses, 1/2 gallon; water, 2 gallons. Mix the arsenic with the bran

dry. Add the molasses to the water and mix into the bran, making a moist

paste. Put a tablespoonful near the base of the tree or vine and lock up

the chickens.

Control of Squash Bugs.

We are troubled with pumpkin bugs. Please tell us what to do for them.

When the bugs first make their appearance in the field they can be

easily disposed of by hand picking and dropping into a bucket containing

about two inches of water with about one-fourth inch of kerosene on top

to kill the bugs. The picking should be done in the morning, as the bugs

are apt to fly in the warm part of the day and scatter where already

picked. Two persons can pick over an acre in one and a half hours, and

two pickings are usually sufficient for a season, as after the vines

begin to run over the ground pretty well the bugs will not be able to

hurt them much. A pair of thin old gloves will help to keep off one's

hands some of the perfume from the bugs. The sooner the work starts the

fewer bugs to pick. Cleaning up of all old vines in the fall and

removing litter in which the mature bugs hide for the winter will permit

less eggs to be laid in the spring and there will be fewer bugs to pick

as a result.

The Corn Worm.

Last year all my ears of corn were infested with maggot, growing fat

thereon. Can you help me scare them away?

You have to do with the so-called corn worm which is very abundant in

this State and one of the greatest pests to corn growing. It is the same

insect which is known as the boll worm of the cotton in the Southern

States. No satisfactory method of controlling this has been found,

although a great deal of experimentation has been done. Nearly

everything that could be thought of has been tried without very

satisfactory results. A late planted corn has sometimes been free, for

the insect is not in the laying stage then. If it were not for this

insect the canning of corn would be an important industry in this State.

Melon Lice.

I have in about four acres of watermelons, and there seem to be lice and

a small gnat or fly, and also some small green bugs and white worms on

the under part of the leaves, which seem to be stopping the growth of

the vines, making them wilt and die. They seem to be more in patches,

although a few on all the vines. Can you please tell me what to do for

them?

Melon lice are very hard to catch up with after you have let them get a

start. Spraying with oil emulsions, tobacco extracts, soap solutions,

etc., will all kill the lice if you get it onto them with a good spray

pump and suitable nozzles for reaching the under sides of the leaves.

The gnats you speak of are the winged forms of the lice; the white worms

may be eating the lice; the "small green bugs" may be diabroticas. If

you had started in lively as soon as you saw the first lice you could

have destroyed them in the places where they started. Now your chance

lies largely in the natural multiplication of ladybirds and the

occurrence of hot winds which will burn up the lice. It is too late

probably, to undertake spraying the whole field.

Wire Worms.

Is there any way to destroy or overcome the destructive work of the

wireworm, which I find in some spots takes the lion's share of crops,

such as beans, potatoes, onions, etc.?

We do not know any easy way with wire worms. Nitrate of soda is believed

to kill or repel them, but you have to be careful with it, for too much

will either over-stimulate or kill the kill; about 200 pounds per acre,

well distributed, is the usual prescription for the good of the plants.

Wire worms can probably be killed with carbon bisulphide, using a

tablespoonful poured into holes about a foot deep, three or four feet

apart. The vapor would permeate the soil and kill all ground insects,

but the acre-cost of such treatment must be measured in its relation to

the value of the crop. The most promising policy with wire worms is

rotation of crops, starving them out with a grain or grass crop and not

growing such crops as you mention continually on the same land.

Bean Weevil.

How can I keep certain insects from getting into my dry beans? I have

finished picking the crop. Every year a little, short, stubby beetle

gets in them before spring and makes them unfit for use.

You have to do with the bean weevil. The eggs are inserted by the insect

while the beans are still green in the pods; subsequently the eggs hatch

and the worm excavates the interior of the ripened beans. The beans can

be protected after ripening by heating carefully to 130° Fahrenheit,

which will destroy the egg, or the larva if already hatched. Of course,

this heating must be done cautiously and with the aid of a good

thermometer for fear of destroying the germinating power. The work of

the insect can also be stopped by putting the beans in a barrel or other

close receptacle, with a saucer containing about an ounce of carbon

bi-sulfid to vaporize. Be careful not to approach the vapor with a

light. After treatment for one-half hour, the cover can be removed and

the vapor will entirely dissipate. This is a safer treatment than the

heating. Similar methods of control can be used on other pea and bean

weevils.

Slugs in Garden.

Can you advise me how I can get rid of slugs in my garden?

When barriers of lime, ashes, etc., are ineffective, traps consisting of

pieces of board sacking and similar materials placed about the field

prove inviting to the slugs. They collect under these and by going over

the field in the early morning they may be put into a salt-water

solution or otherwise destroyed. Arsenical sprays applied with an

underspray nozzle to the lower surface of the leaves will help control

the slugs. Poison bran mash consisting of 16 pounds of coarse bran, 2

quarts of cheap syrup, and enough warm water to make a coarse mash, is

very good for cutworms and should be equally effective for slugs. It

should be placed in small heaps about the plants to be protected.

Cabbage leaves dipped in grease drippings and placed about the fields

also prove attractive bait for the slugs, which may then be collected

there. If a person has a taste for poultry, the keeping of a few ducks

may solve the slug problem without further bother. Cultivation or

irrigation methods that give a dry surface most of the time also

discourage these pests.

Cause of Mottle Leaf.

What is the cause and cure of mottle leaf of citrus trees?

There are apparently a number of causes of this trouble, all more or

less obscure and hard to overcome. It is generally thought that it is

due to poor nutrition, whatever the reason for poor nutrition might be.

The presence of a nematode or eel worm on the roots has found to be a

cause of mottle leaf in many cases. Poor drainage, too sandy soil and a

number of other things frequently cause it. Whatever the cause, no one

good method of cure has been found.

Potato Scab.

I think most of my potatoes will have some scab. Will you please tell me

if my next crop would be apt to have scab, provided I got good clean

seed and planted in the same ground?

It seems demonstrated that a treatment of the seed will practically

insure against potato scab. One method is dipping the potatoes in a

solution of corrosive sublimate. Dissolve one ounce in eight gallons of

water and soak the seed potatoes in this solution for one and one-half

hours before cutting.

Gopher Poison.

I have some alfalfa, some hogs and some gophers, also some strychnine

and carrots. If I put the strychnine on the carrots, and endeavor to

poison the gophers, and the hogs get hold of the poison will it kill

them?

You will find that hogs are liable to poison like any other animal, and

the safest way to poison the gophers, while the hogs are running in the

field is to bury the poisoned carrots very deeply in the gopher hole and

then put a row of sticks or branches over the mouth of the hole so that

the hogs cannot root around and get at the poisoned carrots.

How to Make Bordeaux.

Use copper sulphate (bluestone) 5 pounds; quick-lime (good stone lime),

6 pounds; water, 50 gallons. Put the bluestone in a sack and hang it so

it will be suspended just under the surface of a barrel of water over

night, or dissolve in hot water. Use one gallon of water to one pound of

bluestone. Slake the lime in a separate barrel, using just enough water

to make a smooth, clean, thin whitewash. Stir this vigorously. Use

wooden vessels only. Fill the spray tank half full of water, add one

gallon of bluestone solution for each pound required, then strain in the

lime and the remainder of the water and stir thoroughly. The formula may

be varied according to conditions, using from 3 to 8 pounds of bluestone

to 50 gallons of water and an equal or slight excess of lime. Use the

stronger mixture in rainy weather. Keep the mixture constantly agitated

while applying.

Formula for Lime-Sulphur.

To make lime-sulphur take quick-lime, 20 pounds; ground sulphur, 15

pounds and water 30 gallons. Slake the lime with hot water in a large

kettle, add the sulphur and stir well together. After the violent

slaking subsides add more water and boil the mixture over a fire for at

least one hour. After boiling sufficiently strain into the spray tank

and dilute with water to the proper strength. If a steam boiler is

available, this mixture may be prepared more easily on a large scale by

cooking in barrels into which steam pipes are introduced. This mixture

cannot be applied safely except during the winter when the trees are

dormant. A large proportion of the lime-sulphur used in the State is

purchased already prepared in more concentrated form.

Index

Fruit Growing.

Almond

Grafting on Peach

Pruning

Budding and Grafting

Planting

Pollination

Roots for

Longevity of

Seedlings

Do Not Plant in Place

Stick-Tights

And Peach

Apples

Shy-Bearing

Not on Quince

Stock For

And Alfalfa

Top Grafting

Mildew on Seedlings

Pruning

Will They Be Same Kind

Places for

Grafting in Place

Resistant Roots

For Hot Place

Die-Back of

Storage of

Root-Grafts

Apricots

Pruning

Shy-Bearing

Propagation

Renewing Old

Summer Pruning

Bananas

In California

Berries

Pruning Himalayas

Hardiness of Hybrids

With Perfect Flowers

Pruning Loganberries

Strawberry Planting

Blackberries for Drying

Planting Bush Fruits

Strawberry Plants

Strawberries in Succession

Gooseberries, Limitations of

Carobs

In California

Cherries

For Hot Place

Wild

Pruning

Training Grafts

Restoring Tress

Pollination

Citron

Curing

Citrus Fruit

Temperatures

Filbert Roots

Filbert Growing

Figs

Stickers

No Gopher-Proof Roots

Trays, Cleaning

Fruit Trees

Depth of Soil

What Slopes

and Overflow

Roots for

and Sunburn

Budding

Starting from Seed

Square or Triangular Planting

Planting on Clearings

Dipping Roots of

Preparing for Planting

Depth of Planting

In Wet Place

Cutting Back at Planting

Branching Young

Coal Tar and Asphaltum

Regular Bearing of

Avoiding Crotches

Crotch-Splitting

Strengthening

Covering Wounds

Covering Sunburned Bark

Gravel Streak

Transplanting Old

Dwarfing

Seedling

Filling Holes in

Deferring Bloom

Repairing Rabbit Injuries

Crops Between

Scions for Mailing

Scions from Young Trees

Whitewashing

Deciduous Planting

On Coast Sands

Over Underflow

Grapefruit

and Nuts

Grapes

Dry Farming

Cutting Frosted Canes

Dipping Seedless

Zante Currant

Vines for Arbor

Pruning Old Vines

Bleeding Vines

Scant Moisture

Sulphuring for Mildew

Sugar in Canned

Planting

Grafting

Wax

June Drop

Killing Moss on Tree

Interplanting, Wrong idea

Lemons

Citrus Budding

No Citrus Fruits on Roots

Mulberries

Pruning and Grafting

Nursery Stock in Young Orchard

Orchard

Replanting

Plowing in Young

Pigs in

Forage Under Sprayed Trees

Oranges

Water and Frost

Thinning

Wind-Blown Trees

Handling Balled Trees

Navel Not Thornless

Over-Size

Budding or Grafting in Orchard

Under-Pruning Trees

Keeping Trees too Low

Dying Back of Trees

Young Trees Dropping Fruit

Training

Crops Between Trees

Navels and Valencias

Seedlings

Acres to One Man

Roots for Trees

Soil and Situation

Transplanting

Protecting Young Trees

Not on Osage

No Pollenizer for Navels

Water and Frost

Frosted, What to do

Pruning Frosted Trees

Pruning

Olives

Cultivating

Moving Old Trees

Darkening Pickled

Seedlings Must Be Grafted

Oranges and Peppers

Budding Seedlings

Budding Old

from Small Cuttings

from Large Cuttings

Trimming Up

Canning

Renewing Trees

Growing from Seed

Neglected Trees

Peaches

Lye-peeling

Aged Trees

Renewing Orchard

Will He Have

Fillers in Apple Orchard

Grafting on Almond

on Apricot

Replanting after Root Knot

Buds in Bearing Trees

Pollen Must Be Same Kind

Grafting on

Young Trees Fail to Start

Planting in Alfalfa Sod

Pecan Growing

Pears

Pollination of Bartletts

Comics

Not on Peach

Dwarf Pears

Yield in Drying

Problems

Blight and Bees

on Quince

Plowing, Young Orchard

Plums - Pollenizing

Prunes

On Almond

Re-grafting Silver

French or Italian

Myrobalan Seedlings

Drying

Sugar

Glossing Dried

Price on Size Basis

Pruning

Times

Shaping a Young Tree

Late

Too Much

In Frosty Places

Low Growth

Are Tap-Roots Essential

For a Bark Wound

Bridging Gopher Girdles

Roots, Whole or Piece

Soil, Binding Plant for Winter

Spineless Cactus Fruit

Stumps, Medication to Kill

Sucker, What will it Be

Walnuts

Early Bearing

Handling Seedlings

How to Start

Planting

Pruning

Grafting

on Oaks

Eastern or California Blacks

Ripening

Cutting Below Dead Wood

in Alfalfa

in the Hills

Increase Bearing

Temperature and Moisture

from Seed

High-grafted

Vegetable Growing.

Artichokes

Jerusalem

Globe

Growing

Asparagus Growing

Beets

Leases for Sugar

Topping Mangel Wurzels

Brussels Sprouts - Blooming

Bean

Growing

Hoeing

as Nitrogen Gatherer

Yard-Long

Why Waiting

Blackeye

Are Cow-Peas

Horse-Bean Growing

Growing Castor

Inoculation

On Irrigated Mesas

California Grown Seed

Cloth for Hotbeds

Celery, Blanching

Chili Peppers

Corn

in Sacramento Valley

in Warm Ground

Sweet, in California

Cucumbers

Forcing

Growing

Continuous Cropping

Ginger in California

In Cold, Dark, Draft

Licorice in California

Lentils, Growing

Lettuce, Transplanting

Melons

Winter

Ripe

Onions

Seeds and Sets

Ripening

from Sets

Crops from Seed

Peas

Canada for Seed

Growing Niles

Peanuts

Harvesting

and Adobe

Potatoes

Cutting

Planting

Northern Seed

Planted Early

Balls

Seed-ends

and the Moon

Planting Whole

How to Cut Seed

Scab

Double-cropping

Keeping

Yield

New for Seed

Growing

After Alfalfa

Flat or Hill

Bad Conditions for

On Heavy Land

Storage for Seed

and Frosts

Sweet, Plant Growing

Growing

Between Trees

Less Water, More Heat

Radish, Giant Japanese

Rhubarb, Rotting

Soil for Vegetables

Squashes Dislike Hardship

Sunflowers, Harvesting

Tomatoes

Irrigating

Big Worms

Loss of Bloom

Grain and Forage Crops

Alfalfa

Improving Land

Cultivating

Suburban Patch

and Bermuda

and Salt Grass

and Alkali

on Adobe

and Soil Depth

Irrigating

Curing

Preparation of Land

Where Grown

Sowing

and Foxtail

Which is Best

and Dry Land

Inoculating

Unirrigated

Time to Cut

and Overflow

No Nurse Crop

Re-seeding

Taking Bloat from

What Crop for Seed

Siloing First Crop

Soil For

Handling Young

With Gypsum

Alfileria, Winter Pasture

Barley

California Varieties

Chevalier

on Moist Land

and Alfalfa

Beet Sugar, Home-made

Beets

and Potatoes

for Stock

Stock, Summer Start

Berseem

Bermuda Grass

Objectionable

Black Medic

Broom Corn

Buckwheat Growing

Clover

and Drought

for Wet Lands

Crimson

for Shallow Land

for High Ground-Water

Not an Alfalfa

Sweet, Cover Crop

Corn

for Silage

Irrigation for

Eastern Seed

Suckering

and Cow Peas

Cover Crop for Hop Yard

Cow Peas in San Joaquin

Cowpeas

Growing

and Canadian Peas

Crop Rotation

Dry Plowing for Grain

Fall Feed

Forage Plants

in Foothills

Winter

Poultry

Flax, New Zealand

Grasses, for Bank-holding

Grass Seeds, Scattering

Hay

Midsummer Sowing

Loose by Measure

Oat, When to Cut

Rye for

Frosted Grain

Summer Crop

Heating and Fermentation

Insect Powder

Johnson Grass

Jersey Kale

Kafir and Egyptian Corn

Lawns, Mossy

Moonshine Farming

Oats and Rust

Pasturing

Young Grain

Hurry-up

California Winter

Rape and Milo

Rye in California

Rye

Grass, Italian

better than

Speltz

Spurry, Giant

Soil Light, Scant Moisture

Sunflowers

and Soy Beans

Russian

Spineless Cactus

Sorghum

Smutty

Late Sown

Sorghums

for Seed

for Planting

Sacaline

Special Crops

Teosinte

Vetches

for San Joaquin

for Hay

Wheat, Seven-headed

Soils, Fertilizing and Irrigation.

Alkali Soil

and Trees

Treatment of

and Gypsum

Distribution

Plants Will Tell

and Litmus

Alfalfa over Hardpan

Ashes

and Tomatoes

in Garden

and Poultry Manure

Blasting

or Tiling

Effects of

Barnyard Manure and Alkali

Bones for Grape Vines

Can a Man Farm

Charcoal, Medicine, not Food

Cover Crop, Best Legume

Cowpeas, best cover crop

Cementing Soils, Improvement

Cultivation, Depth of

Draining Wet Spot

Dry Plowing

Treatment

and Sowing

Dynamite, More Needed

Electro-Agriculture

Fenugreek as Cover Crop

Fertilizer

in Tree Holes

Best for Sand

Prunings as

Suburban Wastes

Composting Garden Wastes

for Sweet Potatoes

Pear Orchard

Olives

Consult Trees

Nursery

Almond Hulls and Sawdust

Fruit Trees

Oranges

Seed Farm Refuse

Slow Stuff

Alfalfa

Corn

Scrap Iron

Kelp as

Nitrate of Soda

Strawberries

Ground Water

Gypsum

on Grain Land

and Alfalfa

What it Does

How Much

Garden Peas for Green Manure

Grape Pomace

Handling

Abuse of

Hardpan and Low Water

Humus

Burning Out

Straw for

Irrigating

Palms

Condensation for

Winter

Young Trees

Alfalfa

How Much for Crops

Sewage

Creamery Wastes

House Waste

Intensive Cultivation

Irrigate or Cultivate

Irrigation

Underground

of Potatoes

of Apples

of Walnuts

Summer and Fall

and Fertilizers

Liming Chicken Yard

Legumes, Two in Year

Lime

Caustic not Absorbent

on Sandy Soil

Alfalfa

Sugar Factory Fertilizer

Manure

Water, Cultivation

Ashes

Poultry

too Much

Stable and Bean Straw

Pit Roofing

Value of Animals

Fresh and Dry

and Shavings

Sheep, and Goat

Hog and Potatoes

Vineyard

and Nitrate

with Clover

Nitrate, Late Applications of

Oranges Over Ground Water

Organic Matter, Needs

Oranges

How Much Water

Damping Off

Planting in Mud

Potash or Water

Reviving Blighted Trees

Soils

and Oranges

Crop Changes

Moisture Defects

Refractory

Suitable for Fruits

Blowing

Improving Heavy

Reclaimed Swamp

Improving Uncovered

Sand for Clay

Sour

and Old Plaster

Handling Orchard

Depth for Citrus

Summer Fallow

Sub-soil, Plow for

Stable Drainage for Fruit

Seeds, Soaking

Trees

over High-water

Plowing toward or from

Irrigated or not

Too Much Water

Too Little Water

Thomas Phosphate, Applying

Water

Artesian

from Wells or Streams

Live Stock and Dairy.

Buttermilk Paint

Butter

Going White

Fat, What it is

Why not Come

Fat in Cream

Breeding

Young Mare

in Purple

Line

Cream That Won't Whip

Cows in Hill Country

Concrete Stable Floor

Drying Persistent Milker

Foot-hill Dairy

Free Martin

Grade, What it is

Granary, Rat-proof

Hogs, Best Breed

Jersey

Short-horn Cross

Bad Tempered

Legal Milk House

Milk

Strong

Separator as Purifier

Certified

Self-Milker, Cure for

Silos, Heating not Dangerous

Shingles, Make Durable

Trespassing Live Stock

Whitewashes

for Buildings

Government

for Spray

Feeding Farm Animals

Alfalfa and Concentrates

Barley, Rolled

for Cows

for Hay Feeding

Brewers' Grains for Cows

Balanced Rations

Corn Stalks

and Concentrates

Cut for Silage

Calves, Feeding

Feed

for Cows

Family Cow

Young Pigs

Grape Pomace as Hog Feed

Grain for Horses

Horses, Vetch for

Horse Beans and Melons

Hay

Salting

Chopping for Horses

Cut Alfalfa

Storing Cut Alfalfa

Grinding

Kale for Cow Feed

Plow Horses, Feed for

Pumpkins

Feeding

Keeping

Pasture and Cover Crop

Fall and Winter

Summer for Hogs

Pigs

and Pie-Melons

Grain or Pasture for

Growing on Roots

Sheep, Winter Feeding

Sorghum, Feeding

Silage 200 Dry Fodder

Sugar Beets and Silage

Stover

Stock Beets

Storing

Kind of

Spelt, Value of

Steers on Alfalfa

Silo, Size of

Soiling Crops

Wheat or Barley

for Hogs

for Feeding

Diseases of Animals.

Abscess of Gland

Abnormal Thirst

Bloat, Easement

Bowel Trouble

Bloody Milk

Barren Heifers

Blind Teat

Bovine Rheumatism

Bleeding for Blackleg

Chronic Indigestion

Castration of Colt

Chronic Cough

Cowpox

Calf Dysentery

Cleft Hoof

Cocked Ankles

Cleanse Cows

Caked Bag

Cow Chewing Bones

Depraved Appetite

Dentist Needed

Dehorning

Forage Poisoning

Fungus Poisoning

Fly Repellants

Flea Destroyers

Garget

Gland Enlarged

Heaves

Horse with Itch

Horses Feet, Treatment

Hog Cholera

Hog Sickness

Infectious Mastitis

Irritation of Udder

Injury to Udder

Kidney Trouble

Lumpy jaw

Lumps in Teat

Loss of Cud

Mange, Is it

Mangy Cow

Musty Corn for Pigs

Nail Puncture

Neck Swelling

Pregnancy of Mare

Paralysis

Pneumonia in Pigs

Paralysis of Sow

Rickets in Hogs

Scabby Swelling

Skin Disease, Fatal

Scours

Side-bone

Shoulder injury

Stiff joints

Swelling in Dewlap

Sterile Cow

Supernumerary Teat

Sore

Eyes

in Pigs

Sow, Over-fat

Tuberculous Milk

Uterus, Diseased

Urination Defective

Warts on Horse

Worms in Horses

Wound

Sore

in Teat

Swellings

Poultry Keeping.

Bowel Trouble in Chicks

Cure for Feather-Eating

Cannibal Chicks

Caponizing

Chicken Pox

Clipping Hens

Dipping Fowls

Disinfectants

Dry Mash

Feeding for Eggs

Grain for Chickens

Liver Disease

Limber Neck

Melons for Fowls

Open Front Houses

Roup

Treatment

in Turkeys

Quick Roosters and Laying Hens

Preserving Eggs

Poultry

Tonic

in Orchard

Point on Mating

Poultry Diarrhea

Rupture of Oviduct

Rape for Chickens

Sunflower Seeds for Chicks

Teaching Chicks to Perch

Pests and Diseases of Plants.

Apple-Leaf Aphis

Bordeaux Mixture

Bean Weevil

Borers on Olive Twigs

Blister Mite on Walnuts

Black Scale, Fumigation

Cutworms in Young Trees

Control

of Pear Slug

of Grasshoppers

of Red Spider

of Squash Bugs

Corn Worm

Gumming Prune Trees

Gopher Poison

Lime-Sulphate Formula

Melon Lice

Mottle Leaf, Cause of

Potato Scab

Raspberry Cane Borer

Sunburn and Borers

Scale on Apricots

Spray for Red Spider

Slugs in Garden

Thrips, Finding

Wooly Aphis

Wire Worms