SPLICING AND SOCKETING WIRE ROPES.
Wire ropes are now used to such an extent, and in such a variety of
ways, that a knowledge of the best methods of handling them cannot fail
to be useful to the many thousands who are brought in daily contact
with them. An endeavour will here be made to give such clear and simple
instructions as will enable readers, with practice, to execute any job
in connection with the splicing of wire ropes. The uses that wire ropes
are now put to, and the ways and occupations they are employed in,
are so various, that it is almost a necessity for a man to be engaged
in their manufacture to have a thorough knowledge of the different
methods of handling them. For instance, it would be just as consistent
to expect a sailor, used only to eye-splicing, to go to a colliery and
put a long splice into a rope, to withstand the enormous stress there
applied, as it would be to expect a colliery man to go aboard ship to
splice the mainbrace, or any other brace.
Now Fig. 177 is a sketch-plan of an endless band rope, such as may be
seen at many collieries in Great Britain. A is the driving sheave on
the engine at bank, round which the rope passes three or four times,
and leads off to the overhead pulley B. Then it goes down the shaft,
perhaps a very considerable distance, under the pulley C, and so on to
D, whence it passes round the tightening sheave E, which is movable and
contrived with weights to keep the rope always tight, and so prevent
surging round the pulleys and sheaves and consequent loss of power. The
rope then passes round D′ to the sheave F, the driving of which is the
object aimed at, since that sheave in turn may work either one or two
hauling ropes, as at G and H, working into the interior of the pit,
in addition, perhaps, to a pump. The load on this rope may amount to
several tons, and such a rope will therefore require a splice from 60
ft. to 100 ft. long.
Further, no matter what kind of a splice it may be, it must be made
well. If it is a ship’s hawser, at times the safety of the vessel and
all it contains may depend on a splice. Again, an awful disaster might
be the result if the splice in a crane rope were to draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 177.—Colliery Band Rope Driving System.]
There are three kinds of wire rope splices, the short splice, eye
splice, and long splice.
A short splice is a bulky splice, and is used only for block straps,
slings, etc. It is not suitable for driving ropes or for running
tackle, and should never be put into a crane or hoist rope. It is made
by unlaying the two ends of the rope to a sufficient length, from 1 ft.
to 2 ft., according to size, and interlaying them together as in Fig.
178. Draw them close, and tuck the strands of one under the strands
of the other several times. It is only a case of “over and under” as
in splicing a hemp rope. After the ends have been tucked a sufficient
number of times, about twice, each strand will stand in most cases.
Hammer all down snug, and either cut off the ends with a hammer and
chisel or twist the wires off one or two at a time, which makes a much
neater job.
An eye splice may be made in two different ways—namely, left-handed, or
“over and under,” and right-handed.
[Illustration: Fig. 178.—“Marrying” a Wire Rope Splice.]
Left-handed splicing is undoubtedly stronger, tuck for tuck, than the
right-handed method, for the “bite” on the strands is greater and the
frictional adhesion is more acute. The strands and ends are practically
plaited, and consequently locked together, and, no matter how the rope
unlays itself, the splice is immovable. A splice like this should be
put into every crane rope, for frequently the load when lifted from the
ground spins round and unlays the rope to a certain extent.
In right-handed splicing, the ends to be tucked are simply laid several
times round one strand each, and offer no resistance to any such
unlaying process. However, a right-handed splice is easier and neater
to make, and these splices are becoming general, some splicers making
it a rule to put a “lock” in by tucking the ends once left-handed. A
right-handed splice is strong enough for most ordinary purposes, but
if a left-handed splice is tucked three times and put on a testing
machine, it would break the rope before it would draw out; whereas,
if a right-handed splice were tucked three times and put to the same
test, it would pull out. However, if the right-handed splice, instead
of being tucked three times were tucked eight times, it would stand any
stress that could be put on it; in fact, six times through is quite
sufficient for ordinary purposes.
[Illustration: Fig. 179.—Method of Serving Wire Rope.]
[Illustration: Fig. 180.—Partly-finished Splice.]
[Illustration: Fig. 181.—Wire Rope ready for Splicing.]
The following is the method of right-handed splicing. First fasten up
the rope-end from the vice to any convenient column or hook, and mark
off from the end, as at A (Fig. 179), the length for the splice, which
will be from 1½ ft. to 6 ft., according to the size of rope; say 2 ft.
of end for 2 in. cir. rope. Measure with a string round the groove of
the thimble, and transfer the length to the rope, marking it as at A
B. To put a seizing on the “neck” of the splice, as in Fig. 180, add
6 in. or 8 in. to the length of rope to be served. Now take a narrow
strip of parcelling—that is, thin bagging—and bind it neatly round the
rope from A to B (Fig. 179). The rule is: Worm and parcel with the lay,
but serve the rope the other way. Next take a serving-mallet D (Fig.
179), with a bobbin full of spun yarn upon it, and, beginning at B,
serve over the parcelling to A. Cut off and make fast the end of spun
yarn, when the work will be ready for turning in the thimble. A chalk
mark midway between A and B will serve as a guide in getting in the
thimble straight. Next bring the end of the rope round on the double to
form a loop, with A and B exactly level. Open the vice sufficiently to
take in that loop, insert the thimble, taking care to have it exactly
straight, and screw up the vice as tightly as possible. Securely fasten
the rope and thimble together at the “neck” A (Fig. 181), when the
rope should appear as there illustrated. Fasten it in the vice with
the thimble hanging downwards, and the part to be spliced held up by a
line suspended from some convenient joist or girder. Take the whipping
off the rope-end, and open out the strands singly, to be ready for
tucking. Looking at the rope from the direction of the arrow A (Fig.
182), drive a marlinespike through the two strands on the extreme left,
taking care, of course, always to miss the core of the rope. Twist the
spike up the rope about half a turn, so as to make an easier bend for
the strand, then take the strand nearest the opening, tuck it through,
and haul tight. Then, most important, force down the strand with the
marlinespike till it occupies the position indicated in the dotted
lines of Fig. 182.
[Illustration: Fig. 182.—Right-handed Splice, First Tuck.]
At the next tuck, with the spike take in the strand to the right,
along with the two just gone through, making an opening through three
strands, with the point of the spike coming out in the same place as
in the first tuck. Insert the next nearest end, strand two, and work in
snug as before. Of the three strands the spike has just been through,
take the one nearest to the left, and drive the spike in so as to make
the point come out at the same opening as before; tuck in No. 3 strand,
and that will make, as in Fig. 183, three strand ends entering into the
same opening in the rope, but coming out between different strands.
After this, simply keep on taking the next strand and the next end,
following round to the left, till all the ends are tucked once, when an
end will come out between each pair of strands.
[Illustration: Fig. 183.—Right-handed Splice, all Ends Tucked Once.]
The rest is easy. Merely keep on repeating the operation, with strand
and end, until the splice is long enough and strong enough. As Fig.
180 shows, after the first set of tucks, it is only a case of each end
twisting and re-twisting round its own particular strand, all the way
up. It merely thickens the strands. After the ends are tucked three or
four times, it will make a neater splice if the ends are split and the
splice is tapered at the finish by leaving behind one-half of each end,
while the other half is tucked once or twice more. Having finished the
tucking, take the splice down from the vice, cut off all strand ends
quite close, and hammer all down snugly. At the neck put on the seizing
wire, if any, parcel and serve, and the right-handed eye splice is
complete.
[Illustration: Fig. 184.—Left-handed Splice, First Tuck.]
Seizing wire is really a seven-wire strand, made of soft wire, about
No. 18 or No. 19 gauge. It is put on a splice for the double purpose
of strengthening the splice and rendering it easier to take a weak or
broken thimble out of the eye, to be replaced by a stronger one. It is
simply bound tightly round the two ropes at the neck, and the end is
brought up and round the middle twice, or thrice and made secure, as at
A (Fig. 180).
Left-handed eye-splicing should be comparatively easy if the preceding
instructions on right-handed eye-splicing have been carefully followed.
Although it is not essential, it makes a neater and a closer splice
if a slightly different method of starting is adopted. In splicing a
thimble into a crane rope or a trawl-warp, two ropes in which it is
very advisable to put left-handed splices, it is unusual to put any
seizing on the neck; instead, the rope is spliced right down to the
thimble. Serve sufficient rope to go round the thimble only, leaving
out sufficient end for the splice. Turn in and screw up very tight in
the vice, make fast at the neck, as before described, fasten the rope
up with the thimble hanging downwards, and open out the ends.
[Illustration: Fig. 185.—Left-handed Splice, all Ends Tucked Once.]
Different splicers have different ways of starting, but a very good
method is as follows: Turn to Fig. 181, and, taking the strand in the
rope nearest the point marked C, open it out with the spike. Select the
end that is nearest to it, which will be the inside middle one of the
bunch, bring it through to the right hand, as in Fig. 184, and force
it down well. Still keeping the spike through the same strand, select
the middle strand end, on the outside of the bunch, and put it through
the same aperture, but in the opposite direction—that is, left-handed.
Of the four strands now remaining, first take the two at the right,
and put each end through its nearest strands, right-handed, as at B C
(Fig. 185), and the other two at the left, and tuck them through their
nearest neighbours, left-handed. There is now an end coming out between
each strand, and if the rope is now taken down and hammered well at
this part, a very neat starting is formed. All that remains now is very
simple; just keep working round to the left, tucking each end as it
is reached over its neighbour and under the next one. Work “over and
under” all the way, until each end is tucked three or four times.
The appearance of the splice will be improved if the ends are halved
before taking the final tuck.
If the strands of the rope to be spliced are very hard and stiff, it
will perhaps be difficult to pull in the ends quite snug. To get over
this difficulty, before tucking give each strand a sharp bend close to
the rope, in the direction in which it has to be tucked, when it will
spring into its place with comparatively little pulling. When all the
ends are tucked, hammer the splice well, as that makes the wires knit
more into one another, and consequently increases the “bite.” All that
remains now is to cut the ends off, and serve over, finishing at the
thimble. It is a good plan to take the splice down now and then during
the process of tucking, and hammer it well, as that serves to drive out
all the slack at the ends.
Long-splicing is undoubtedly the most important form of splicing.
By its use two pieces of rope may be joined together, or a rope may
be made endless, without increasing its thickness at the splice. In
fact, none but a practised eye can discern where a well-made splice
is, after it has been made and set running, as all ends are completely
hidden. Ability to splice well in this style commands many good jobs at
collieries in this country and in South African mines.
Of course, in long-splicing, as in many other things, different men
have different styles. Suppose, for example, a colliery hauling rope
is to be spliced, and that it works endless from a hauling engine to
a terminal return pulley, mounted on the tension bogie; suppose also
that the rope has been put in position, with the ends left at the most
convenient place ready for splicing. If 60 ft. of end is available for
the splice, decide on that length, and, measuring about 40 ft. from
each end, make the rope fast to the rails at one side, and at the other
side fix a block and tackle, and haul in every bit of slack lying on
the hauling road, taking especial care that the tension bogie is pulled
right up to the top of the tension “ways.” This is a very important
consideration, because if, through the rope stretching, the tension
pulley got down to its limit before the rope was worn out, it would
necessitate cutting the rope and making a new splice, or opening out
the old splice and re-splicing there again after shortening the rope.
Where practicable, have the tension of a sufficient length that by
the time it gets to its limit there is sufficient length of rope to
make a new splice, in case the old one is found to be giving way. Some
ropes stretch more than others in working, and it is difficult to say
accurately how much per cent. a rope will stretch, as much depends on
the way the rope has been made. However, the larger the hempen core
inside the rope or the shorter the lay or spiral twist the more the
stretch. It is wise, therefore, when splicing a new rope never to give
any slack away.
Having got the rope hauled as tight as possible, carefully measure 30
ft. from each end of the rope, and there tie a strong whipping. It is
important that these whippings should be put on each rope at a distance
which shall ensure that they will easily come quite up to each other
when the two ends are joined together. Next, take the whippings off the
extreme ends of rope and open out the strands. Some splicers do this in
pairs; others simply halve the rope, opening it out in two bunches of
three strands each. A better way, considering laying them in again, is
to open out one strand, then miss one and open out the next to that,
then miss another and take the next one again.
There are now three single strands opened out to the whipping at 30 ft.
from the end, and between each of these strands there is one strand
unopened. This work must be done at each end of the rope, of course.
Taking these two bunches of three unopened strands, cut them off about
6 in. from the whipping and throw them on one side. Open out the 6 in.,
obtaining three strands 30 ft. long, and between each pair is a strand
6 in. long, with the same length of core projecting through the centre
of the rope. Join the two ends together as in Fig. 178 (p. 135), taking
care in every case to have the strands placed so that a long strand
will fall in where a short one comes out, and at the same time pull out
between the strands the two short pieces of core A B. Place helpers
on each side to pull on the long strands, as in a tug of war, and
after cutting the two whippings C get the helpers to pull in opposite
directions, until the two ropes are jammed close up to each other, with
the strands ready to fall naturally into the lay of the rope. If this
is not done properly, or if the rope is allowed to slip back, the
appearance of the finished splice will be spoiled by an unsightly long
place in the lay.
Next clamp or securely tie the three long strands at one side to the
rope, and proceed to lay the other three long strands into place.
Select a long strand and the short one that touches it, open out the
short strand, and lay the long one in its place. Keep on doing that
until all but 5 ft. of the long strand has been laid in; then stop and
lock these two strands together by crossing them, so that they will
not open out. Now measure back 5 ft. on the strand just opened out and
cut the rest off, as only 5 ft. will be needed on each end. Open out
another short strand, at the same time laying in a long one, to the
length of 15 ft. only, and the next long strand must be laid in just
5 ft. Now release the other three strands made fast to the rope, and
treat them in the same way, laying in a long strand where a short one
is taken out. Make all the ends 5 ft. long, putting a small whipping on
each before cutting to prevent opening out, when the splice will be as
in Fig. 186.
[Illustration: Fig. 186.—Long Splice, all Ends ready for Tucking.]
There are now twelve strand ends, 5 ft. long, which must be worked
into the inside of the rope and completely hidden; but before this
some lengths of thin bagging must be prepared, about 2 in. wide, or,
failing that, get some thin yarn, which must be wrapped securely and
evenly round each strand for about 2 ft. or 3 ft. from the end. Strips
of bagging are the better, and can be expeditiously put on by getting
each helper to wrap an end. This gives the outer strands something to
knit or bed into when the hempen core is taken out of the centre of
the rope and the steel strand ends are worked in. After considering
the difference between the size of the hempen core and of the outer
strands, necessitated, of course, by the spiral form of the outer
strands, it will be obvious that the “bite” of the outer on the inner
strands would be very little indeed if the ends were worked in bare.
When all the ends are wrapped and cut to such a length that they just
butt against each other when worked inside the rope, the work is ready
for tucking. Take hold of the piece of hempen core A (Fig. 186) and
pull it out just to past the first joint—that is, the two ends 1 and
1′. In all probability, if the rope is large or rather hard laid, this
will be difficult, unless a tapered round spike is driven through the
two strands immediately behind it.
[Illustration: Fig. 187.—Making Round Joint.]
Strand 1 has now to be worked inside the rope where the core came
out. To do that, take a flat tucking spike and drive it through the
strands 1′ and the next one with the point coming out and covering
strand 1. Twist the spike round in the lay of the rope, and, of course,
towards the original joint B in the splice; but so manipulate the
spike, or “tucker,” that strand 1 will fall into the inside of the rope
immediately the worker starts to twist, as at C (Fig. 187).
When working a strand from the outside to the inside of a rope it
should be done short, sharp, and at once. Good joints must be made
short, for then the twists in the strands so unite with one another as
to make it appear as though they were blended into one strand.
The “partner” strand to the one just worked in—that is, strand 1′—must
next be tucked out of sight, but before that can be done it will be
necessary to consider that if the wires in the strand are spun or
twisted in the opposite direction to that in which the rope is “laid”
or “closed,” then an ordinary rope is formed. But if the wires and the
strands are both twisted in the same direction there is formed a make
of rope commonly called a “Langs” or “Albert” laid rope.
In Figs. 179 to 185 ordinary ropes are illustrated, but in Figs. 178,
186, and 187 Langs ropes are shown.
[Illustration: Fig. 188.—Half-round Top-Swage.]
In an ordinary rope the strands are tucked into the inside, side by
side at the joint, which is known as a “flat joint,” while in the case
of a Langs rope the strands are crossed over each other at the joint,
and this is known as a round joint.
[Illustration: Fig. 189.—Wire Rope Clamp.]
Fig. 187 also illustrates a good way to place the spikes to work in
strand 1′ and make a round joint. Each spike is driven through two
strands, and, as shown, A is the leading spike which tucks the strand
into its place, while B is used simply to combine with A in making the
joint and forcing the strand 1′ into the centre of the rope. This is
effected by placing the strand between the points of the two spikes and
twisting them up in opposite directions. If the spike A is twisted up
towards the worker, and spike B in the opposite direction, the obvious
result is that the points of the two spikes come down, and simply crush
strand 1′ into the centre of the rope. Then go on twisting spike A
along the lay, and spike B can be pulled out as soon as the worker gets
away from the joint.
[Illustration: Fig. 190.—Link Socket.]
If these joints are closely and neatly made, each in its own way, the
two strands forming the joint knit into each other’s lay or twist, and
will be scarcely noticeable. The above operation must, of course, be
repeated until all the ends are tucked into the inside of the rope.
Tuck them in as numbered in Fig. 186, namely 1, 1′, 2, 2′, and so on.
Be very particular in seeing that the ends exactly butt each other, or
a lump results on the splice; if they do not butt, the outer strands
will sink in. When all the ends are properly tucked, the long splice
is practically completed, but it will improve matters to round off all
joints and uneven places with a half-round top-swage, about the same
diameter as the rope.
[Illustration: Fig. 191.—Side View of Socket. Fig. 192.—Socket Opened
Out.]
About all the tools necessary for long-splicing are two flat spikes or
tuckers and one round one, each say 18 in. long, a sledge and set for
cutting the rope and strands, a hand hammer for driving in the spikes,
a strong pair of cutting pliers and the top-swage (Fig. 188). A very
useful wire rope clamp is shown in Fig. 189.
[Illustration: Fig. 193.—Socket in Wire Rope.]
In addition to the method of fitting attachments to wire ropes by
means of splicing, as already described in this chapter, there is the
method of socketing, shoeing, or capping, as it is variously called.
There is a great difference between the rough product of the colliery
black-smith, in the shape of the common link socket, and the highly
finished cast-steel socket or the turned steel socket of the engineer;
and in concluding this chapter it is purposed to deal with them all.
Fig. 190 is a view of the ordinary link socket, often used at
collieries as a means of temporarily repairing a broken rope. A
whipping of soft wire or spun yarn is put on each end of the rope, and
a few wires then bent sharply back over the whipping and cut off an
inch or two shorter than the socket that fits over them. The rest of
the rope-end is cut off as close to the whipping as possible, and the
sockets, which, of course, are ready opened, are put on, hammered down
close, and firmly clinched with three rivets.
A very common socket in everyday use is shown by Figs. 191 to 193;
this is principally used on haulage ropes and ships’ steering-gear.
The eye may be of either round or square section, the latter being the
strongest and best. As a rule, these sockets are fixed on the rope
by means of rivets only, but when attached to winding ropes they are
secured with strong steel hoops, which are forged to make a close fit
at intermediate distances on the socket, as in Fig. 194.
[Illustration: Fig. 194.—Hooped Winding Rope Socket.]
Sometimes hoops are used in conjunction with rivets. When a hooped
socket leaves the black-smith’s shop, the hoops should be a close
fit at equal distances on the socket; and as a guide to replacing
them correctly, both socket and hoops should be pop-marked with a
centre-punch as shown.
[Illustration: Fig. 195.—Preparing Bulb on Wire Rope End.]
The method of preparing the wire rope for these sockets is the same
whether hoops or rivets are used. First put a strong wire whipping on
the rope at about the length of the socket from the rope-end. Untwist
the wires of the part left over and straighten them out (see Fig. 195);
then bend them sharply back, one or two at a time, over the whipping
and over the rope. If the rope has a wire core in the centre, the wires
forming it should be bent back the same as the outside wires; but if
the core is of hemp, it must be cut off close to the whipping. After
hammering snug and close, all these wires have to be cut to a different
length, so as to form a tapered bulb corresponding to the tapered
cavity inside the socket. Cut the longest wires an inch or two shorter
than the length of the socket, measuring from A to B (Fig. 193), and
gradually make the other wires shorter and shorter all the way towards
the end. These wires must now be tightly and closely served with soft
copper wire or spun yarn, using the serving-mallet already described in
this chapter. For common work spun yarn is used, and for the best class
of work soft copper wire.
[Illustration: Fig. 196.—Finished Bulb on Wire Rope End.]
[Illustration: Fig. 197.—Set-hammer for Tightening Hoops.]
[Illustration: Fig. 198.—Solid Socket with Closed End.]
[Illustration: Fig. 199.—Solid Socket with Closed End.]
In bending back the wires, care must be taken to ensure their being
bent equally all round the rope and not merely at the top and bottom or
on one side only. The object is to form on the end of the rope a bulb
which will completely fill the cavity inside the socket. To do this,
the operator should work with the closed socket beside him and take
the measurement of the inside of the socket at both ends with a pair
of inside callipers, and the size of the bulb as it progresses with
outside callipers, comparing the two. The socket may have been made
rather large inside, in which case it will be necessary to put on two
or more layers of serving to bring the bulb to the required size. The
rope should then appear as in Fig. 196. The eye of the socket must now
be made red-hot. Cool down all but the extreme back of the eye A (Fig.
192) by the application of water, and open the socket out sufficiently
to allow of the bulb being pushed into place. Let the end of the bulb
come just to the shoulder A (Fig. 193) of the socket; then hammer the
socket on the anvil, or screw it up in the vice, until it is as close
as it will go. Cool it down and drive in the rivets, clinching them
well, with a big strong head on each side, for which purpose the holes
must be well countersunk. The rivets should be made of good riveting
iron or of mild steel. A properly filled socket should show, when
finished, a ⅛-in. opening between the jaws down its full length on both
sides (see Figs 193 and 194), which would prove that the socket was
properly gripping the bulb.
[Illustration: Fig. 200.—Plan of Solid Socket with Open End.]
[Illustration: Fig. 201.—Elevation of a Solid Socket with Open End.]
[Illustration: Fig. 202.—Another Elevation of a Solid Socket with Open End.]
When fitting a hooped socket, first pop-mark the parts, then remove the
hoops and thread them on to the rope, the smallest first and the others
in order; they are thus easily returned to their proper places. As
soon as the hoops are replaced, the socket should be taken out of the
vice and held end down on a block or anvil while the hoops are driven
tightly home with a set-hammer (Fig. 197) and sledge.
To give a better finish, and to prevent the hoops from working back or
wet from entering, they are sometimes caulked on the tapered side A
(Fig. 194) with a caulking set.
[Illustration: Fig. 203.—Riveted Flat Rope Socket.]
[Illustration: Fig. 204.—Cramped Flat Rope Socket.]
For crane ropes or colliery winding ropes, steel sockets are sometimes
cast solid, some with closed eyes for the D shackle, as in Figs. 198
and 199, and others with open ends with holes for a slotted pin, as
in Figs. 200 to 202, the two latter being side views of alternative
shapes. The form shown by Figs. 198 and 199 is the more difficult to
fit, as it is obvious that the rope must first be pushed through the
socket and brought out at one side of the eye before the bulb can be
formed, when it has to be either pulled or hammered back until it is
quite tight in the socket. After the bulb of these solid sockets has
been pulled or driven into place, it is usual to drive a round tapered
copper plug into the core of the bulb, to solidify it and increase its
grip with the socket. Sometimes molten white metal is poured in to fill
up the interstices between the rope and the socket. The hole at the
small end of these sockets is made only a very little larger than the
diameter of the rope, so that it is impossible for the bulb to pull
through if properly made.
[Illustration: Fig. 205.—Socket Cramp.]
Flat wire ropes, which are not much used now, also have to be socketed,
as they cannot be spliced. There are various methods of fixing flat
rope sockets, varying with the strain and the conditions under which
they work. The most usual method is to bend the wire ends back equally
on both sides to make the bulb fit the inside of the socket, and to
secure with a liberal supply of rivets (see Fig. 203). For stronger
work, the rope-end, after being cut off square, is bent round the
shackle pin, and the socket made to grip both the rope and its end, the
whole being firmly secured by means of strong iron clamps and bolts
(see Figs. 204 and 205). In order to drive the rivets through the
compressed rope after the socket is tightened, it is necessary to make
the way easy for them by driving in tapered spikes of the shape shown
by Figs. 206 and 207. These require a hole in the end to take the end
of a stout marlinespike, for the purpose of withdrawing them from the
hole. They must be made of mild steel.
[Illustration: Figs. 206 and 207.—Riveting Spikes.]
[Illustration: Fig. 208.—Rivet.]
The best form of rivet is shown by Fig. 208; it must be made longer
than the diameter of the socket, to allow for clinching the other head.
INDEX.
Albert Laid Rope, 147
Arm Gaskets, 97
Artificial Eye on Rope End, 98
Artilleryman’s Ring Knot, 49
Band Driving Rope, 133
“Becket,” 107
Belaying, 103
—— Cleat, 103
—— Pin, 103
Bellringer’s Knot, 88
“Bend,” 10
—— Shortening, 52
Bending Rope to Loop, 38
Bends, 34–42
Bessemer Steel Wire Rope, Safe Load on, 12
Bight of Rope, Definition of, 15, 16
Blackwall Hitch, 39
Block, Securing, to Rope, 65
——, Stropping, 107
Blood Knot, 15
Boat Fender, 104, 105
—— —— with Ropeyarn Heart, 105
—— Knot, Shortening, 57
—— Ring Knot, 43, 44, 45
Boatswain’s Chair, 131
Bow Knot, 19
Bowline on Bight, 28
—— Knot, 27
Builder’s Double Knot, 32
—— Knot, 30, 31, 47
Bulb, Preparing, on Wire Rope, 151
Bunt Gaskets, 97
Bunting Fringe, 115
Buoy Rope Knot, 74
Cable Splice, 92, 93
Cable-laid Rope, 10, 11
Calf Knot, 18
Can Sling, 80, 81
Capping Wire Rope, 150
Capstan Ring Knot, 49
Carrick Bend, 37
Catspaw, 36, 63, 65
Chain Knot for Lashing, 59, 60
—— —— Shortening, 52
—— —— Double, 58
Chain Lashings for Poles and Ledgers, 131
Chair, Boatswain’s, 132
Check Knot, 24
Chocks for Rope Ladders, 116
Clamp, Wire Rope, 148
Cleat, Belaying, 103
Clews, Hammock, 128
——, Sail, 37
Clove-Hitch, 32, 47
Cocoanut Fibre Rope, 10
Coir Rope, 10
Colliery Band Rope, 133
Cordage, Working, 96–124
Cotton Ropes, 10
—— ——, Splicing, 93
Crabber’s Eye Knot, 27
Cramp, Socket, 155
Cramped Flat Rope Socket, 155
Crane Rope, Splicing Thimble into, 141
Cross Lashing, 60
Crown Knot or Crowning, 67, 68, 111
Crucible Steel Wire Rope, Safe Load on, 12
Cut Splice, 92
Dalliance Knot, 83
Davenport Brothers’ Knot, 86–87
Delay Knot, 49
Diamond Knot, 71, 72
—— ——, Double, 72
—— ——, Single, 72
Dogshanks Shortening Knot, 54
Double Boat Ring Knot, 45
—— Chain Knot, Shortening, 58
—— Diamond Knot, 72
—— Lark’s Head Ring Knot, 47
—— Pitcher Knot, 79
End Seizing, 96
Eye, Artificial, on Rope End, 98
——, Flemish, 97
—— Knots, 24–29
——, Left-handed, Splicing, 141
—— Seizing, 96
—— Splice, 92
—— Wire Rope Splice, 134, 135
Fairleader, 103
Fancy Knots, 66–88
Fender, Boat’s, 104, 105
Fid for Rope Splicing, 91
Figure-of-Eight Knot, 16
Fisherman’s Bend, 34
—— Eye Knot, 24
—— Knot, 21
Flat Hemp Rope, Weight of, 12
—— Rope Sockets, 155
Flemish Eye, 97
—— —— Knot, 26
—— Knot, 16, 21
Four-stranded Ropes, 10
“Foxes” for Mat Making, 121
French Sennit, 97
—— Shroud Knot, 73
Fringe, Bunting, 115
Gaskets, 97
Granny Knot, 18
Grommet, Splicing, 93–95, 98
Gunner’s Ring Knot, 49
Halliard Bend, Topsail, 35
Hammer, Set, for Tightening Rope, 154
Hammock Clew, 128
—— Making, 125–129
——, Mesh Stick for Making, 125
—— Meshes, 127
——, Meshing, 126
——, Netting, 125
——, —— Needle for Making, 125
——, Slinging, 125
Hawser-laid Rope, 11
Hemp Rope, Safe Load on, 12
—— ——, Sheave on, 12
—— ——, Weight of, 12
Hermann’s Trick Knot, 18
Hide Rope, 10
“Hitch,” 10
Hitches, 30–34
Hook, Mousing, 106
Hooped Socket, Fitting, 151
—— Winding Rope Socket, 150
Jar Sling, 80, 81
Jury Knot, 79
Killick Hitch, 32
“Knittles,” 105
Knot, Artilleryman’s Ring, 49
——, Bellringer’s, 88
——, Blood, 15
——, Boat Shortening, 57
——, —— Ring, 43–45
——, Bow, 19
——, Bowline, 27
——, Builder’s, 30, 31, 47
——, —— Double, 32
——, Buoy Rope, 74
——, Calf, 18
——, Capstan Ring, 49
——, Chain Shortening, 52
——, Check, 24
——, Crabber’s Eye, 27
——, Crown, 67, 68, 111
——, Dalliance, 83
——, Davenport Brothers’, 86, 87
——, Delay, 49
——, Diamond, 71, 72
——, Dogshanks Shortening, 54
——, Double Boat Ring, 45
——, —— Chain Shortening, 58
——, —— Diamond, 72
——, —— Lark’s Head Ring, 47
——, —— Pitcher, 79
——, Eye, 24–29
——, Fancy, 66–88
——, Figure-of-eight, 16
——, Fisherman’s, 21
——, —— Eye, 24
——, Flemish, 16, 21
——, —— Eye, 97
——, French Shroud, 73
——, Granny, 18
——, Gunner’s Ring, 49
——, Hermann’s Trick, 18
——, Jury, 79
——, Lark Boat Ring, 44
——, Lark’s Head Ring, 45–47
——, Lubber’s, 18
——, Manharness Ring, 49
——, Manrope, 69, 112
——, Matthew Walker, 70, 71
——, Mooring, 49
——, Netter’s, 20
——, Openhand, 19
——, —— Eye, 25
——, Overhand, 15, 19, 21
——, Packing, 61
——, Pitcher, 77, 79
——, Portuguese, 61, 109
——, Puzzle, 79
——, Reef, 17
——, Ring, 43–52
——, Rosette, 19
——, Running Eye, 24
——, Sailor’s, 17, 18
—— —— Backhanded Ring, 48
——, —— Ring, 49
——, Security of, 10
——, Shamrock, 81, 83
——, Sheepshanks Shortening. 54
——, Shortening, 58
——, Shroud, 72, 73
——, Single Diamond, 72
——, —— Pitcher, 77
——, Slip Eye, 24
——, Slipper Ring, 43
——, Spritsail Sheet, 73
——, Staffordshire, 16
——, Stationer’s, 42
——, Stopper, 15, 67
——, Tack, 69, 70
——, Thumb, 20
——, Tom Fool’s, 77
——, Treble Lark’s Head Ring, 47
——, Trick, 18, 79, 83–87
——, True, 17
——, “True-Lover’s,” 79
——, Turk’s Head, 75–77
——, Twist Shortening, 53
——, Wall, 66, 69, 110, 111
——, Weaver’s, 20
——, Wedding, 59
——, Whipcord, 23
Knotting, Material for Practising, 13
Ladder Chocks, 116
—— Rope, 116–121
—— Rounds, 116
Lancashire System of Splicing Cotton Ropes, 93
Langs-laid Rope, 147
Lanyard, 104
Lark Boat Ring Knot, 44
—— Ring Knot with Crossed Ends, 46
Lark’s Head Ring Knot, 45–47
—— —— —— —— Stoppered, 45
Lashing, Chain, for Poles and Ledgers, 131
——, Cross, 60
——, Regulating, 41
——, Rope, for Poles and Ledgers, 131
Lashings and Ties, 59–65
—— for Scaffolding, 130–132
Ledger and Pole Lashings, 131
Left-handed Eye-Splicing, 141
—— Rope Splicing, 135
Link Socket, 150
Long-splicing, 91, 135, 143, 146
Loop Shortening, 52
Lovers’ Knot, True, 79
Lubber’s Knot, 18
Magnus Hitch, 33
Mainstay, 109
Mallet, Serving, used in Rope Splicing, 102, 137
Manharness Ring Knot, 49
Manilla-grass Rope, 10
Manrope Knot, 69, 112
Marlinespike for Rope Splicing, 91
—— Hitch, 39
Marling, 102
“Marrying” Wire Rope Splice, 135
Mason’s Whipping, 68
Mat Making, 121–124
——, Sword, 122
——, Thrumming, 122
Matthew Walker Knot, 70, 71
Mesh Stick used in Hammock Making, 125
Meshes, Chain of, 127
Meshing in Hammock Making, 126
Middle Seizing, 96
Midshipman’s Hitch, 39
Mooring Knot, 49
Mousing a Hook, 106
Necklace Tie, 60
Netter’s Knot, 20
Netting of Hammocks, 125
—— Needle, 125
“Nettles,” 105
Nippering, 62
Openhand Eye Knot, 25
—— Knot, 19
Overhand Knot, 15
—— Knot Joining two Ropes, 21
Packing, 62
—— Knot, 60
Parcelling, 100
Pilot Ladder, 120
Pitcher Knot, Double, 79
—— ——, Single, 77
Pin, Belaying, 103
Pointing End of Yoke Line, 112
—— Rope, 107, 108
Pole and Ledger Lashings, 131
Portuguese Knot, 61, 109
Pricker used in Rope Splicing, 91
Putlogs, Lashings for, 131
Puzzle Knot, 79
Quarter Gaskets, 97
Racking Hitch, 36
Réaumur Experiments on the Strengths of Ropes, 13
Reef Knot, 17
Regulating Lashing, 41
Right-handed Splicing, 135–140
Ring Knots, 43–52
Riveted Flat Rope Sockets, 155
Riveting Spikes, 155
Rolling Hitch, 35
Rope, Cable-laid, 10
—— Formation, 9
——, Four-stranded, 10
—— Ladder, 116–121
—— Making, Principle of, 12, 13
—— Materials, 10
——, Method of Measuring, 11
——, Sizes of, 11
—— Sockets, Flat, 155
—— Splicing, 89–95
——, Three-stranded, 10
——, Weight of, 12
Ropeyarn Heart, Fender with, 105
Rosette Knot, 19
Round Seizing, 96, 97
Rungs, Rope Ladder, 116, 118
Running Bowline, 28
—— Eye Knot, 24
—— Knot, 29, 30
Sailors’ Backhanded Ring Knot, 48
—— Knot, 17, 18
—— Ring Knot, 49
Sally of Bellringer’s Knot, 88
Scaffolding, Ties and Lashings for, 130–132
Seizing, 96
——, End, 96
——, Eye, 96
——, Middle, 96
——, Round, 96, 97
—— Stuff, 11
——, Throat, 96
—— Wire, 140
Selvagee, 98, 99
Sennit, 97
——, French, 97
Serving, 102
—— Mallet, 103, 137
—— Wire Rope, 136
Set-hammer for Tightening Rope, 154
Shamrock Knot, 81, 83
Shear-legs, 109
Sheave of Hemp Rope, 12
—— —— Wire Rope, 12
Sheepshanks Shortening Knot, 54–56
—— Toggled Knot Shortening, 57
Sheet Bend, 37, 38
—— Knot, Spritsail, 73
Shoeing Wire Rope, 150
“Shortenings,” 52
——, Bend, 52
——, Loop, 52
Shroud Knot, 72, 73
—— ——, French, 73
Shroud-laid Rope, 11
Single Diamond Knot, 72
—— Pitcher Knot, 77
Sizes of Ropes, 11, 13
Sling for Can or Jar, 80, 81
Slinging Hammocks, 125
—— Plank for use as Stage, 132
Slip Eye Knot, 24
Slipper Ring Knot, 43
Slippery Hitch, 37
Socket, 150
—— Cramp, 155
——, Fitting Hooped, 155
——, Flat Rope, 155
——, Hooped Winding Rope, 150
——, Link, 150
——, Solid, with Closed Ends, 154
——, ——, with Open Ends, 154
Socketing Wire Ropes, 133–155
Splice, Cable, 92, 93
——, Cut, 92
——, Eye, 92
——, Long, 91
——, Short, 89
——, Wire Rope Eye, 134, 135
——, —— —— Long, 134
——, —— —— Short, 134
Splicing, 89–95
—— Cotton Ropes, 93
—— Grommet, 93–95, 98
——, Long, 143–146
——, Method of Starting, 141, 142
—— Wire Ropes, 133–155
Spikes, Riveting, 155
—— for Splicing, 148
Spritsail Sheet Knot, 73
Staffordshire Knot, 16
Stages, Painters’, 132
Stationer’s Knot, 42
Steel Wire Rope, Safe Load on, 12
Stern Ladder, 116
Stick, Mesh, used in Hammock Making, 125
Stopper Knot, 15, 67
Stranded Ropes, 10, 11
“Strands,” 10
Stropping Block, 107
Swage, Top, 149
Sword Mat, 122
Tack Knot, 69, 70
Thimble, 106
——, Splicing, into Crane Rope, 141
——, ——, —— Trawl-warp, 141
Thread, Strength of, 13
Three-stranded Rope, 10, 11
Throat Seizing, 96
Thrumming Mats, 122
Thumb Knot, 20
Ties and Lashings, 59–65
—— for Scaffolding, 130–132
Timber Hitch, 32
Toe Chock for Rope Ladder, 116
Toggle, 104
Tom Fool’s Knot, 77
Topsail Halliard Bend, 35
Top-swage, 149
Trawl-warp, Splicing Thimble into, 141
Treble Lark’s Head Ring Knot, 47
Trick Knot, 18, 79, 83–87
True Knot, 17
True-lover’s Knot, 79
Tuckers or Spikes for Splicing, 148
Tufting of Bellringer’s Knot, 88
Turk’s Head Knot, 75–77
Twist Shortening Knot, 53
Wall Knot, 66, 69, 110, 111
Weaver’s Knot, 20
Wedding Knot, 59
Wedging Scaffold Lashings, 132
Weight of Ropes, 12
Whipping, 61, 62
——, West Country, 62, 63
Whipcord Knot, 23
Wire Rope Clamp, 149
—— ——, Safe Load on, 12
—— —— Sheave of, 12
—— —— Socketing, 149–155
—— —— Splicing, 133–149
—— ——, Weight of, 12
Worming, 99
“Yarns,” 10
Yoke Lines, 109
—— ——, Fastening Off, 115
—— ——, Pointing End of, 112
PRINTED BY CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, LUDGATE HILL, LONDON, E.C.
30.705
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES.
1. Silently corrected simple spelling, grammar, and typographical
errors.