The secret of Titian's colour, the "Venetian secret," was produced,

some experts believe, by first painting a solid monochrome in tempera

on which the picture was finished in oil. Unquestionably Titian

corrected and amended his work as much as did Velasquez. It is a

pleasing if somewhat theatric belief that Titian and Velasquez,

duelled with their canvases, their rapier a brush. After inspecting

many of the Hals portraits the evidences of direct painting, swift

though calculated, are not to be denied. This may account, with the

temperamental equation, for the less profound psychological interest

of his portraiture when compared with the Raphael, Titian, Velasquez,

and Rembrandt heads. Yet, what superiority in brush-work had Hals over

Raphael and Rembrandt. The Raphael surfaces are as a rule hard, dry,

and lustreless, while Rembrandt's heavy, troubled paint is no mate for

the airy touch of the Mercutio of Haarlem. But Titian's impasto is

lyric. It sings on the least of his canvases. No doubt his pictures in

the Prado have been "skinned" of their delicate glaze by the

iconoclastic restorer; yet they bloom and chant and ever bloom. The

Bacchanal, which bears a faint family resemblance to the Bacchus and

Ariadne of the London National Gallery, fairly exults in its joy of

life, in its frank paganism. What rich reverberating tones, what

powers of evocation! The Garden of the Loves is a vision of childhood

at its sweetest; the surface of the canvas seems alive with festooned

babies. The more voluptuous Venus or Danaë do not so stir your pulse

as this immortal choir of cupids. The two portraits of Charles V--one

equestrian--are charged with the noble, ardent gravity and splendour

of phrasing we expect from the greatest Venetian of them all. We

doubt, however, if the Prado Entombment is as finely wrought as the

same subject by Titian in Paris; but it sounds a poignant note of

sorrow. Rembrandt is more dramatic when dealing with a similar theme.

The St. Margaret with its subtle green gown is a figure that is

touching and almost tragic. The Madonna and Child, with St. Bridget

and St. Hulfus, has been called Giorgionesque. St. Bridget is of the

sumptuous Venetian type; the modelling of her head is lovely, her

colouring rich.

Rubens in the Prado is singularly attractive. There are over fifty,

not all of the best quality, but numbering such works as the Three

Graces, the Rondo, the Garden of Love, and the masterly unfinished

portrait of Marie de Medicis. The Brazen Serpent is a Van Dyck, though

the catalogue of 1907 credits it to Rubens. Then there are the

Andromeda and Perseus, the Holy Family and Diana and Calista. The

portrait of Marie de Médicis, stout, smiling, amiability personified,

has been called one of the finest feminine portraits extant--which is

a slight exaggeration. It is both mellow and magnificent, and unless

history or Rubens lied the lady must have been as mild as mother's

milk. The Three Graces, executed during the latter years of the

Flemish master, is Rubens at his pagan best. These stalwart and

handsome females, without a hint of sleek Italian delicacy, include

Rubens's second wife, Helena Fourment, the ox-eyed beauty. What blond

flesh tones, what solidity of human architecture, what positive beauty

of surfaces and nobility of contours! The Rondo is a mad, whirling

dance, the Diana and Calista suggestive of a Turkish bath outdoors,

but a picture that might have impelled Walt Whitman to write a sequel

to his Children of Adam. Such women were born not alone to bear

children but to rule the destinies of mankind; genuine matriarchs.

Rembrandt fares ill. His Artemisia about to drink her husband's ashes

from a costly cup reveals a ponderous hand. It is but indifferent

Rembrandt, despite several jewelled passages. Van Dyck shows at least

one great picture, the Betrayal of Christ. The Brazen Serpent only

ranks second to it; both are masterpieces, and Antwerp must envy the

Prado. The Crown of Thorns, and the portraits, particularly that of

the Countess of Wexford, are arresting. His Musician, being the

portrait of Lanière the lute-player, and his own portrait on the same

canvas with Count Bristol, are cherished treasures. The lutist is

especially fascinating. That somewhat mysterious Dutch master, Moro,

or Mor (Antonis; born in Utrecht, 1512; died at Antwerp, 1576 or

1578), is represented by more than a dozen portraits. To know what a

master of physiognomy he was we need only study his Mary Queen of

England, the Buffoon of the Beneventas, the Philip II, and the various

heads of royal and noble born dames. The subdued fire and subtlety of

this series, the piercing vision and superior handicraft of the

painter have placed him high in the artistic hierarchy; but not high

enough. At his best he is not far behind Holbein. That great German's

art is shown in a solitary masterpiece, the portrait of an unknown

man, with shrewd cold eyes, an enormous nose, the hands full of

meaning, the fabrics scrupulous as to detail. Next to this Holbein,

whose glance follows you around the gallery, are the two Dürers, the

portrait of Hans Imhof, a world-renowned picture, and his own portrait

(1498), a magical rendering of a Christ-like head, the ringlets curly,

the beard youthful, the hands folded as if in prayer. A marvellous

composition. It formerly hung too high, above the Hans Imhof; it now

hangs next to it. A similar head in the Uffizi is a copy, Sir Walter

Armstrong to the contrary notwithstanding.

The Flemish schools are to be seen in the basement, not altogether a

favourable place, though in the afternoon there is an agreeable light.

Like Rubens, Jan van Eyck visited Spain and left the impress of his

style. But the Van Eycks at the Prado are now all queried, though

several are noteworthy. The Marriage of the Virgin is discredited. The

Virgin, Christ and St. John under the golden canopy, called a Hubert

van Eyck, is probably by Gossaert de Mabuse, and a clever

transposition of the altar piece in St. Bavon's at Ghent. The Fountain

of Life, also in the catalogue as a Jan van Eyck, has been pronounced

a sixteenth-century copy of a lost picture by his brother Hubert. We

may add that not one of these so-called Van Eycks recalls in all their

native delicacy and richness the real Van Eycks of Bruges, Ghent, and

Brussels; though the Virgin Reading, given as Jan's handiwork, is of a

charm. The Depositions, attributed to Rogier van der Weyden (De la

Pasture), are acknowledged to be old sixteenth-century copies of the

Deposition in the Escorial. The altar piece is excellent. But there is

a fine Memling, glowing in pigment and of beautiful design, The

Adoration of the Kings, a triptych, like the one at Bruges. In the

centre panel we see the kings adoring, one a black man; the two wings,

or doors, respectively depict the birth of Christ (right) and the

presentation in the temple (left). There is a retablo (reredos) in

four compartments, by Petrus Cristus, and two Jerome Patinirs, one, a

Temptation of St. Anthony, being enjoyable. The painter-persecuted

saint sits in the foreground of a freshly painted landscape, harassed

by the attentions of witches, several of them comely and clothed. To

be precise, the composition suggests a much-married man listening to

the reproaches of his spouses. Hanging in a doorway we found a Herri

Met de Bles that is not marked doubtful. It is a triptych, an

Adoration, in which the three kings, the Queen of Sheba before

Solomon, and Herod participate. A brilliantly tinted work this, which

once hung in the Escorial, and, _mirabile dictu_, attributed to Lucas

van Leyden. No need to speak of the later Dutch and Flemish school,

Teniers, Ostade, Dou, Pourbus, and the minor masters. There are

Breughels and Bosches aplenty, and none too good. But there are

several Jordaens of quality, a family group, and three heads of street

musicians. We forgot to mention an attribution to Jan van Eyck, The

Triumph of Religion, which is a curious affair no matter whose brain

conceived it. The attendant always points out its religious features

with ill-concealed glee. A group of ecclesiastics have confounded a

group of rabbis at a fountain which is the foundation of an altar; the

old fervour burns in the eyes of the gallery servitor as he shows you

the discomfited Hebrew doctors of the law. We may dismiss as harmless

the Pinturicchio and other Italian attributions in these basement

galleries. There is the usual crew of Anonimos, and a lot of those

fantastic painters who are nicknamed by critics without a sense of

humour as "The Master of the Fiery Hencoop," "The Master of the

Eccentric Omelet," or some such idiotic title.

Up-stairs familiar names such as Domenichino, Bassano, Cortona,

Crespi, Bellino, Pietra della Vecchia, Allori, Veronese, Maratta,

Guido Reni, Romano need not detain us. The catalogue numbers of the

Italian school go as high as 628. The Titians, however, are the glory

of the Prado. The Spanish school begins at 629, ends at 1,029. The

German, Flemish, and Holland schools begin at 1,146, running to 1,852.

There are supplements to all of the foregoing. The French school runs

from 1,969 to 2,111. But the examples in this section are not

inspiring, the Watteaus excepted. There is the usual Champagne,

Coypel, Claude of Lorraine (10), Largillière, Lebrun, Van Loo, Mignard

(5); one of Le Nain--by both brothers. Nattier (4), Nicolas Poussin

(20), Rigaud, and two delicious Watteaus; a rustic betrothal and a

view of the garden of St. Cloud, the two exhaling melancholy grace and

displaying subdued richness of tone. Tiepolo has been called the last

link in the chain of Venetian colourists, which began with the

Bellini, followed by Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Palma Vecchio,

Bonifazio, Veronese--and to this list might be added the name of the

Frenchman Watteau. Chardin was also a colourist, and how many of the

Poussins at this gallery might be spared to make room for one of his

cool, charming paintings!

The Prado about exhausts the art treasures of Madrid. In the Escorial,

that most monstrous and gloomiest of the tombs of kings, are pictures

that should be seen--some Grecos among the rest--even if the palace

does not win your sympathy. In Madrid what was once called the

Academia de San Fernando is now the Real Academia de Bellas Artes. It

is at 11 Calle de Alcalá and contains a Murillo of quality, the Dream

of the Roman Knight, Zurbaran's Carthusians, an Ecce Homo by Ribera,

of power; the Death of Dido by Fragonard; a Rubens, St. Francis, the

work of his pupils; Alonzo Cano, two Murillos, Domenichino, Tristan,

Mengs, Giovanni Bellini; Goya's bull-fights, mad-house scenes, and

several portraits--one of the Due de la Paz; a Pereda, a Da Vinci (?),

Madrazo, Zurbaran, and Goya's equestrian portrait of Charles IV. A

minor gathering, the débris of a former superb collection, and not

even catalogued.

There are museums devoted to artillery, armour, natural sciences, and

archæology. In the imposing National Library, full of precious

manuscripts, is the museum of modern art--also without a catalogue. It

does not make much of an impression after the Prado. The Fortuny is

not characteristic, though a rarity; a sketch for his Battle of

Tetuan, the original an unfinished painting, is at Barcelona. There

are special galleries such as the Sala Haes with its seventy pictures,

which are depressing. The modern Spaniards Zuloaga, Sorolla,

Angla-Camarosa are either not represented or else are not at their

best. There is a Diaz, who was of Spanish origin; but the Madrazos,

Villegas, Montenas, and the others are academic echoes or else feeble

and mannered. There are some adroit water-colours by modern Frenchmen,

and there is a seeming attempt to make the collection contemporary in

spirit, but it is all as dead as the allegorical dormouse, while over

at the Prado there is a vitality manifested by the old fellows that

bids fair to outlast the drums, tramplings, and conquests of many

generations. We have not more than alluded to the sculpture at the

Prado; it is not particularly distinguished. The best sculpture we saw

in Spain was displayed in wood-carvings. The pride of the Prado is

centred upon its Titians, Raphaels, Rubenses, Murillos, El Grecos,

and, above all, upon Don Diego de Silva, better known as Velasquez.

EL GRECO AT TOLEDO

Toledo is less than three hours from Madrid; it might be three years

away for all the resemblance it bears to the capital. Both situated in

New Castille, Madrid seems sharply modern, as modern as the early

nineteenth century, when compared to the mediæval cluster of buildings

on the horseshoe-shaped granite heights almost entirely hemmed in by

the river Tagus. It is not only one of the most original cities in

Spain, but in all Europe. No other boasts its incomparable profile,

few the extraordinary vicissitudes of its history. Not romantic in the

operatic moonlit Grenada fashion, without the sparkle and colour of

Seville or the mundane savour of Madrid, Toledo incarnates in its

cold, detached, proud, pious way all that we feel as Spain the

aristocratic, Spain the theocratic. To this city on a crag there once

came, by way of Venice, a wanderer from Crete. Toledo was the final

frame of the strange genius of El Greco; he made it the consecrate

ground of his new art. It is difficult to imagine him developing in

luxuriant Italy as he did in Spain. His nature needed a sombre and

magnificent background; this city gave it to him; for no artist can

entirely isolate himself from life, can work in _vacuo_. And El

Greco's shivering, spiritual art could have been born on no other soil

than Toledo. He is as original as the city.

The place shows traces of its masters--Romans, Goths, Saracens, and

Christians. It is, indeed, as much Moorish as Christian--the narrow

streets, high, narrow houses often windowless, the inner court

replacing the open squares that are to be found in Seville. Miscalled

the "Spanish Rome," Gautier's description still holds good: Toledo has

the character of a convent, a prison, a fortress with something of a

seraglio. The enormous cathedral, which dates back to Visigothic

Christianity, is, next to Seville's, the most beautiful in Spain. Such

a façade, such stained glass, such ceilings! Blanco Ibañez has written

pages about this structure. The synagogues, the Moorish mosque, the

Alcázar are picturesque. And then there are the Puente de Alcántara,

the Casa de Cervantes, the Puerta del Sol, the Prison of the

Inquisition, the Church of Santo Tomé--which holds the most precious

example of Greco's art--the Sinagogo del Transito, the Church of San

Vicente--with Grecos--Santo Domingo (more Grecos); the Convent, near

the Church of San Juan de los Reyes, contains the Museo Provincial in

which were formerly a number of Grecos; many of these have been

transferred to the new Museo El Greco, founded by the Marquis de la

Vega-Inclan, an admirer of the painter. This museum was once the home

of Greco, and has been restored, so that if the artist returned he

might find himself in familiar quarters. Pictures, furniture, carvings

of his are there, while the adjoining house is rebuilt in a harmonious

style of old material. Remain various antique patios or court-like

interiors, the sword manufactory, and the general view from the top of

the town. El Greco's romantic portrayment of his adopted city is as

true now as the day it was painted--one catches a glimpse of the scene

when the contrasts of light and shadow are strong. During a

thunderstorm illuminated by blazing shafts of Peninsular lightning

Toledo resembles a page torn from the Apocalypse.

The cathedral is the usual objective; instead, we first went to the

church of Santo Tomé. It is a small Gothic structure, rebuilt from a

mosque by Count Orgáz. In commemoration of this gift a large canvas,

entitled El Entierro, depicting the funeral of Orgáz, by El Greco, has

made Santo Tomé more celebrated than the cathedral. It is an amazing,

a thrilling work, nevertheless, on a scale that prevents it from

giving completely the quintessence of El Greco. No doubt he was a

pupil of Titian; Gautier but repeated current gossip when he said that

the Greek went mad in his attempt to emulate his master. But

Tintoretto's influence counts heavier in this picture than Titian's, a

picture assigned by Cossió midway between Greco's first and second

period. Decorative as is the general scheme, the emotional intensity

aroused by the row of portraits in the second _plan_, the touching

expression of the two saints, Augustine and Stephen, as they gently

bear the corpse of the Count, the murky light of the torches in the

background, while overhead the saintly hierarchy terminating in a

white radiance, Christ the Comforter, His mother at His right hand,

quiring hosts at His left--all these figures make an ensemble that at

first glance benumbs the critical faculty. You recall the solemn and

spasmodic music of Michael Angelo (of whom El Greco is reported to

have irreverently declared that he couldn't paint); then as your

perspective slowly shapes itself you note that Tintoretto, plus a

certain personal accent of morbid magnificence, is the artistic

progenitor of this art, an art which otherwise furiously boils over

with Spanish characteristics.

Nothing could be more vivid and various than the twenty-odd heads near

the bottom of the picture. Expression, character, race are not pushed

beyond normal limits. The Spaniard, truly noble here, is seen at a

half-dozen periods of life. El Greco himself is said to be in the

group; the portrait certainly tallies with a reputed one of his. The

sumptuousness of the ecclesiastical vestments, court costumes, ruffs,

and eloquent hands, the grays, whites, golds, blues, blacks, chord

rolling upon chord of subtle tonalities, the supreme illumination of

the scene, with its suggestion of a moment swiftly trapped forever in

eternity, hook this masterpiece firmly to your memory. It is not one

of the greatest pictures in the pantheon of art, not Rembrandt,

Velasquez, Hals, Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, or Rubens; yet it

stands close to them all because of its massed effect of light, life,

and emotional situation. We confess to liking it better than the

Gloria at the Escorial Palace. This glorification of a dream of Philip

II does not pluck electrically at your heart-strings as does the

Burial of Count Orgáz, though the two canvases are similar in

architectonic.

The Expolio is in the cathedral; it belongs to the first period,

before El Greco had shaken off Italian influences. The colouring is

rather cold. The St. Maurice in the chapter hall of the Escorial is a

long step toward a new method of expression. (A replica is in

Bucharest.) The Ascension altar piece, formerly in Santo Domingo, now

hangs in the Art Institute, Chicago. At Toledo there are about eighty

pieces of the master, not including his sculpture, retablos; like

Tintoretto, he was accustomed to make little models in clay or wax for

the figures in his pictures. His last manner is best exemplified in

the Divine Love and Profane Love, belonging to Señor Zuloaga, in The

Adoration of the Shepherds, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the

Assumption at the Church of St. Vicente, Toledo. His chalky whites,

poisonous greens, violet shadows, discordant passages of lighting are,

as Arthur Symons puts it: Sharp and dim, gray and green, the colour of

Toledo. Greco composed his palette with white vermilion, lake, yellow

ochre, ivory black. Señor Beruete says that "he generally laid on an

impasto for his flesh, put on in little touches, and then added a few

definite strokes with the brush which, though accentuated, are very

delicate... The gradations of the values is in itself instructive."

His human forms became more elongated as he aged; this applies only to

his males; his women are of sweetness compounded and graceful in

contour. Some a mere arabesque, or living flames; some sinister and

fantastic; from the sublime to the silly is with Greco not a wide

stride. But in all his surging, writhing sea of wraiths, saints,

kings, damned souls and blest, a cerebral grip is manifest. He knew a

hawk from a handsaw despite his temperament of a mystic. "He who

carries his own most intimate emotions to their highest point becomes

the first in a file of a long series of men"; but, adds Mr. Ellis: "To

be a leader of men one must turn one's back on men." El Greco, like

Charles Baudelaire, cultivated his hysteria. He developed his

individuality to the border line across which looms madness. The

transmogrification of his temperament after living in Toledo was

profound. Born Greek, in art a Venetian, the atmosphere of the

Castilian plain changed the colour of his soul. In him there was

material enough for both a Savonarola or a Torquemada--his piety was

at once iconoclastic and fanatical. And his restlessness, his

ceaseless experiments, his absolute discoveries of new tonalities, his

sense of mystic grandeur--why here you have, if you will, a Berlioz of

paint, a man of cold ardours, hot ecstasies, visions apocalyptic, with

a brain like a gloomy cathedral in which the _Tuba Mirum_ is

sonorously chanted. But Greco is on the side of the angels; Berlioz,

like Goya, too often joined in the infernal antiphonies of Satan

_Mekatrig_. And Greco is as dramatic as either.

Beruete admits that his idol, Velasquez, was affected by the study of

El Greco's colouring. Canaille Saint-Saëns, when Liszt and Rubinstein

were compared, exclaimed: "Two great artists who have nothing in

common except their superiority." It is bootless to bracket Velasquez

with his elder. And Gautier was off the track when he spoke of Greco's

resemblance to the bizarre romances of Mrs. Radcliffe; bizarre Greco

was, but not trivial nor a charlatan. As to his decadent tendencies we

side with the opinion of Mr. Frank Jewett Mather, Jr.: "Certain

pedants have written as if the world would be better without its

disorderly geniuses. There could, I think, be no sorer error. We need

the unbalanced talents, the _poètes damnés_ of every craft. They strew

the passions that enrich a lordlier art than their own. They fight

valiantly, a little at the expense of their fame, against the only

unpardonable sins, stupidity and indifference. Greco should always be

an honoured name in this ill-destined company."

In the Prado Museum there is a goodly collection. The Annunciation,

The Holy Family, Jesus Christ Dead, The Baptism of Christ, The

Resurrection, The Crucifixion--a tremendous conception; and The Coming

of the Holy Ghost; this latter, with its tongues of fire, its

flickering torches, its ecstatic apostles and Mary, her face flooded

by a supernal illumination, mightily stirs the æsthetic pulse. The

Prado has two dozen specimens, though two of them at least--a poor

replica of the Orgáz burial, and another--are known to be by El

Greco's son, Jorge Manuel Theotocopuli; of the numerous portraits and

other pictures dispersed by time and chance to the four quarters of

the globe, we have written earlier in this volume, when dealing with

the definitive work on this Greek by Señor Manuel B. Cossio. El Greco,

through sheer intensity of temperament and fierce sincerity, could

pluck out from men who had become, because of their apathy and

grotesque pride, mere vegetable growths, their very souls afire; or if

stained by crimes, these souls, he shot them up to God like green

meteors. To be sure they have eyes drunk with dreams, the pointed

skull of the mystic, and betray a plentiful lack of chin and often an

atrabilious nature. When old his saints resemble him, when young he

must have looked like his saints, Sebastian and Martin. With his

ardent faith he could have confuted the Gnostic or the Manichean

heresies in colourful allegory, but instead he sang fervid hosannahs

on his canvases to the greater glory of Christ and His saints. Perhaps

if he had lived in our times he might have painted heads of

fashionable courtesans or equivocal statesmen. But whether primitive

or modern, realist or symbolist, he would always have been a painter

of dramatic genius. He is the unicorn among artists.

VELASQUEZ IN THE PRADO

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