The three Vermeers are of his later enamelled period. One is a young

woman reading a letter; she is seen in profile, standing near a table,

and is dressed in a white skirt and blue loose jacket. The Letter

shows us in the centre of a paved room a seated lady, lute in hand.

She has been interrupted in her playing by a servant bringing a

letter. To the right a tapestry curtain has been looped up to give a

view of the scene. The new Vermeer--purchased from the Six gallery in

1908--is now called The Cook; it was formerly known as The Milkmaid. A

stoutly built servant is standing behind a table covered with a green

cloth, on which are displayed a basket of bread, a jug of Nassau

earthenware, and a stone pot into which she is pouring milk from a

can. The figure, painted almost full length, stands out against the

white wall and is dressed in a lemon-coloured jacket, a red-brown

petticoat, a dark-blue apron turned back, and a white cap on the head.

The light falls on the scene through a window to the left, above the

table.

This masterpiece is in one of the cabinet galleries. It displays more

breadth than the Lady Reading a Letter, and its colouring is

absolutely magical. The De Hoochs are of prime quality. Greater art is

the windmill and moonlit scene of Hobbema, as great a favourite as his

Mill, though both must give the precedence to the Alley of

Middleharnais in the Royal Academy, London. But where to begin, where

to end in this high carnival of over three thousand pictures! The

ticketed favourites, starred Baedeker fashion, sometimes lag behind

their reputation. The great Van der Helst--and a prime portraitist he

is, as may be seen over and over again--is The Company of Captain

Bicker, a vast canvas. When you forget Hals and Rembrandt it is not

difficult to conjure up admiration for this work. The N. Maes Spinner

is very characteristic. Cuyp and Van Goyen are here; the latter's view

of Dordrecht is celebrated. So is the Floating Feather of

Hondecoester, a finely depicted pelican. The feather is the least part

of the picture. Asselijn's angry swan is an excellent companion piece.

We wish that we could describe the Jan Steens, the Dous, the Mierises,

and other sterling Dutch painters. There is the gallery of Dutch and

Flemish primitives about which a volume might be written; their

emaciated music appeals. In expressiveness the later men did not excel

them. The newest acquisition, not mentioned in the catalogue

supplements, is the work of an unknown seventeenth-century master,

possibly Spanish, though the figures, background, and accessories are

Dutch. Two old men, their heads bowed, sit at table. Across their

knees are napkins. The white is from a Spanish palette. A youth

attired in dark habiliments, his back turned to the spectators, is

pouring out wine or water. The canvas is large, the execution flowing;

perhaps it portrays the disciples at Emmaus.

The portraits of Nicholas Hasselaer and his wife Geertruyt van Erp, by

Hals, in one of the cabinets, are painted with such consummate

artistry that you gasp. The thin paint, every stroke of which sings

out, sets you to thinking of John Sargent and how he has caught the

trick of brush-work--at a slower tempo. But not even Sargent could

have produced the collar and cuffs. A Whistler, a full-length, in

another gallery, looks like an unsubstantial wraith by comparison. Two

weeks' daily attendance at this excellently planned collection did no

more than fix the position of the exhibits in the mind. There is a

goodly gathering of such names as Israels, Mesdag, Blommers, and

others at the Rijks, but the display of modern Dutch pictures at the

Municipal Museum is more representative. The greatest Josef Israels we

ever saw in the style is his Jew sitting in the doorway of a house, a

most eloquent testimony to Israels' powers of seizing the "race" and

the individual. Old David Bles is here, and Blommers, De Bock,

Bosboom, Valkenburg, Alma-Tadema, Ary Scheffer--of Dutch

descent--Roelofs, Mesdag, Mauve, Jakob Maris, Jongkind, and some of

the Frenchmen, Rousseau, Millet, Dupré, and others. The Six gallery is

not so accessible as it was some years ago. No doubt its Rembrandts

and Vermeers will eventually find their way into the Rijks Museum.

II

Who was Herri met de Bles? Nearly all the large European galleries

contain specimens of his work and in the majority of cases the

pictures are queried. That fatal (?) which, since curators are more

erudite and conscientious, is appearing more frequently than in former

years, sets one to musing over the mutability of pictorial fortunes.

Also, it awakens suspicions as to the genuineness of paint.

Restorations, another fatal word, is usually a euphemism for

overpainting. Between varnish and retouching it is difficult to tell

where the old master leaves off and the "restorer" begins. Bles, for

example, as seen in the Rijks Museum, is a fascinating subject to the

student; but are we really looking at his work? The solitary picture

of his here, Paradise, is so well preserved that it might have been

painted a year ago. (It is an attribution.) Yet this painter is

supposed to have been born at Bouvignes, 1480, and to have died at

Liège, 1521. He was nicknamed Herri, for Hendrick, met de Bles,

because he had a tuft of white in his hair (a forerunner of Whistler).

The French called him Henri à la Houppe; the Italians

"Civetta"--because of the tiny owl he always introduced into his work.

He was a landscapist, and produced religious and popular scenes. Bles

has had many works saddled upon him by unknown imitators of Metsu,

Joost van Kleef, Lucas, and Dürer--who worked at Antwerp between 1520

and 1550. Thierry Vellert was also an imitator. In the old Pinakothek,

Munich, there is a Henricus Blesius, which is said to be a

counterfeit, and others are in Karlsruhe, Milan, Brussels, and at the

Prado.

The circular picture in the Rijks shows us in various episodes Adam

and Eve in the Garden of Eden from the Creation until the Fall. Around

the edge are signs of the zodiac. The colour is rich, the figures

delicate. The story is clearly told and is not unlike a "continuous

performance." You see Adam asleep and over him stoops the Almighty;

then Eve is shown. The apple scandal and the angel with the flaming

sword are portrayed with a vivid line that recalls the miniaturist. A

rare painter.

Roeland Savery is an artist whose name, we confess, was not known to

us until we saw his work in the Rijks. The rich _pâte_ and

bouquet-like quality of his colour recall Monticelli. His compositions

are composed, like Monticelli's, but much more spirited than the

latter. A stag hunt, a poet crowned at the feast of animals, Elijah

fed by the ravens, and the fable of the stag among the cows prove the

man's versatility. He was born about 1576 and died at Utrecht, 1639. A

pupil of his father, he first worked in Courtrai. The Bronzino Judith

holding the head of Holophernes is a copy, the original hanging in the

Pitti Palace. At Vienna there is a replica. Among the Bols (Cornelis,

1613-66) the portraits of Roelof Meulenaer and his wife, Maria Rey,

attract because of their vitality and liberalism. Then we come across

the oft-engraved Paternal Advice, by Gerard ter Borch (1617-81). Who

doesn't remember that young lady dressed in white satin and standing

with her back to you? The man in officer's uniform, admonishing her,

is seated next to a woman drinking from a wine-glass. The texture of

the dress and the artfully depicted glass are the delight of amateurs.

As a composition it is not remarkable. The man is much too young to be

the father of the blond-haired lady, and if the other one is her

mother, both parents must have retained their youth. The portrait of

Helena van der Schalcke is that of a quaint Dutch child standing; a

serious little body carrying a basket on her right arm like a good

housewife. It is a capital Ter Borch. Two beautiful Albert Cuyps are

painted on the two sides of a copper panel. On one side two merchants

stand at a wharf; on the other two men sit sampling wine in a cellar.

The colour is singularly luminous.

Let us pass quickly the Schalckens and Gerard Dous. Dou's

self-portrait is familiar. He leans out of a window and smokes a clay

pipe. The candle-light pictures always attract an audience. Govert

Flinck (1615-60, pupil of Rembrandt) is a painter who, if he lived

to-day, would be a popular portraitist. Wherever you go you see his

handiwork, not in the least inspired, but honest, skilful, and genial.

Look at the head of the tax-collector Johannes Wittenbogaert, covered

with a black cap. So excellent is it that it has been attributed to

Rembrandt. Boland, we believe, engraved it as genuine Rembrandt.

Gerard van Honthorst's Happy Musician is another picture of prime

quality, and a subject dear to Hals. Hoogstratten's Sick Lady is an

anecdote. The young woman does not seem very ill, but the doctor

gravely holds up a bottle of medicine and you feel the dread moment is

at hand. How to persuade the patient to swallow the dose? She is

stubborn-looking. The Pieter de Hoochs are now in the same gallery

with Rembrandt's Jewish Bride. These interiors, painted with a minute,

hard finish, lack the charm and the colour quality of Vermeer. With

sunlight Hooch is successful, but his figures do not move freely in an

atmospheric envelope, as is the case with Vermeer's. The Small Country

House is the favourite. In front of a house a well-dressed man and

woman are seated at a table. She is squeezing lemon juice into a

glass. Behind her a servant is carrying a glass of beer, and farther

away a girl cleans pots and pans. The composition is the apotheosis of

domestic comfort, conjugal peace, and gluttony. We like much more The

Pantry, wherein a woman hands a jug to her little girl. The adjoining

room, flooded with light, is real.

There is one Van der Helst we could not pass. It looks like the

portrait of a corpulent woman, but is that of Gerard Bicker, bailiff

of Muiden. A half-length figure turned to the left, the bailiff a

well-fed pig, holds a pair of gloves in his right hand which he

presses against his Gargantuan chest. His hair is long and curly. The

fabrics are finely wrought. Holbein the younger is represented by the

portrait of a young man. It is excellent, but doubtless a copy or an

imitation. To view five Lucas van Leydens in one gallery is not an

everyday event. His engravings are rare enough--that is, in good

states; "ghosts" are aplenty--and his paintings rarer. Here they are

chiefly portraits. Rachel Ruysch, the flower painter, has a superior

in Judith Lyster, a pupil of Frans Hals. She was born at Haarlem, or

Zaandam, about 1600, and died 1660. She married the painter Jan

Molener. Her Jolly Toper faces the Hals of the same theme, in a

cabinet, and reveals its artistic ancestry. Judith had the gift of

reproducing surfaces. We need not return to the various Maeses;

indeed, this is only a haphazard ramble among the less well-known

pictures. Consider the heads of Van Mierevelt; those of Henrick Hooft,

burgomaster of Amsterdam, of Jacob Cats, and of his wife Aegje

Hasselaer (1618-64). Her hair and lace collar are wonderfully set

forth. Must we stop before Mabuse, or before the cattle piece of the

Dutch school, seventeenth century? A Monticelli seems out of key here,

and the subject is an unusual one for him, Christ With the Little

Children. The Little Princess, by P. Moreelse, has the honour, after

Rembrandt, of being the most frequently copied picture in the Rijks.

The theme is the magnet. A little girl, elaborately dressed, is

seated. She strokes the head of a spaniel whose jewelled collar gives

the impression of a dog with four eyes. In Vermeer's Young Woman

Reading a Letter is a like confused passage of painting, for the

uninstructed spectator. She wears her hair over her ear, an ornament

clasping the hair. At first view this is not clear, principally

because this fashion of wearing the hair is unusual in the eyes of a

stranger.

Jan van Scorel was born at Schoorl, near Alkmaar, 1495. He studied

under Jacob Cornelis at Amsterdam and with Jean de Maubeuge at

Utrecht. He died at Utrecht, 1562. When travelling in Germany he

visited Dürer at Nuremberg; resided for a time in Italy. The Italian

influence is strong, particularly in his Mary Magdalen, which formerly

hung in the town-hall of Haarlem. A replica is in the residence of the

head-master of Eton College, England. Mary is shown seated, richly

attired. She holds in her right hand a box of perfume, her left hand,

beautifully painted, rests on her knee. Behind is a mountainous

landscape, distinctly Italian, beside her a tree. The head is north

Lombardian in character and colouring, the glance of the eyes

enigmatic. A curiously winning composition, not without _morbidezza_.

Scorel has five other works in the Rijks. The Bathsheba is not a

masterpiece. Solomon and the Queen of Sheba is conventional, but the

Harpsichord Player was sold at Paris as late as 1823 as a Bronzino.

Perhaps it is only attributed to Scorel. It is unlike his brush-work.

The Painting of a Vault, divided into nine sections, five of which

represent the Last Judgment, is a curiosity. The portrait of Emperor

Charles V. as Pharaoh is pointed out by the gallery attendant, who

then retires and diplomatically coughs in the middle distance.

The Mancini (pupil of Morelli and W.H. Mesdag) is entitled Poor Thing.

A little girl stands in a miserable room; mice run over the floor. The

colouring is rich. There are admirable Jakob Marises; but we wish to

follow in the track of the old fellows. Adrian van Ostade's Baker is

so popular that it is used for advertising purposes in Holland. The

baker leans out of his door, the lower half closed, and blows a horn.

Palamedes evidently repainted the same picture many times. An interior

with figures, seated and standing; same faces, poses, accessories.

Same valet pouring out wine; variants of this figure. A Merry Party is

the usual title. At The Hague in the Mauritshuis there is another such

subject; also in Antwerp and Brussels. But a jolly painter. Steen and

Teniers we may sidestep. Also the artificial though graceful

Tischbein. There is a Winterhalter here, a mannered fashionable

portrait painter (he painted the Empress Eugénie), and let us leave

the Titians to the experts. When you are in Holland look at the Dutch

pictures. A De Vos painted topers and fishermen with gusto, and there

is Vinckboons, who doted on scenes of violence. Fancy Vollon flowers

in the midst of these old Dutchmen. The Frenchman had an extraordinary

feeling for still-life, though more in the decorative Venetian manner

than in Chardin's serene palette, or the literalism of Kalf.

Whistler's Effie Deans, presented by the Dowager Baroness R. van

Lynden in 1900, is not one of that master's most successful efforts.

It is a whole-length figure painted in misty semi-tones, the feeling

sentimental, un-Whistlerian, and, as we before remarked, wraith-like

and lacking in substance when compared to Hals.

There is actually a Wouverman in which no white horse is to be

discovered. On Van der Werff and the romantic landscapist Wynants we

need not dwell. The miniatures, pastels, and framed drawings are of

goodly array. Of the former, Samuel Cooper (portrait of Charles II.),

John Hoskins, Peter Oliver, Isaac Oliver, Laurence Crosse, and others.

English, Dutch, and French may be found. The Liotard and Tischbein

pastels are charming. In the supplements of the catalogue we find

underscored a Descent from the Cross, an anonymous work of the Flemish

school (fifteenth century, second half). The dead Christ is being

lowered into the arms of his mother. It is evidently a copy from a

lost original in the style of Rogier van der Weyden. There are such

copies in Bruges and elsewhere. Another composition is labelled as an

anonymous work of undetermined school. The Christ hangs on the cross,

on His right are the Virgin Mary, the holy women and St. John; on His

left jeering soldiers and scribes. On either side of the composition

is the figure of a saint much larger in size than the other figures;

St. Cosmus on the left, St. Damian on the right. The background is a

hilly landscape. An authority ascribes the work to the Catalonian

school, date about 1440. There were giants in those days. Antonello da

Messina has the portrait of a young man. It is an attribution, yet not

without some claim to authenticity. The Jan Provosts are mostly of

close study, especially The Virgin Enthroned. A certain Pieter

Dubordieu, who was living in Amsterdam in 1676 (born in Touraine),

painted the portraits of a man and a woman, dated 1638. Vivid

portraits. We must pass over the striking head of Hanneman, the Lucas

Cranach (the elder), and the thousand other attractive pictures in

this gallery. The Rijks Museum could be lived with for years and still

remain an inexhaustible source of joy.

ART IN ANTWERP

After passing Dordrecht on the way down to Antwerp the canals and

windmills begin to disappear. The country is as flat as Holland, but

has lost its characteristic charm. It has become less symmetrical;

there is disorder in the sky-line, more trees, the architecture is

different. Dutch precision has vanished. The railway carriages are not

clean, punctuality is avoided, the people seem less prosperous, few

speak English, and as you near Antwerp the villas and roads tell you

that you are in the dominion of the King of Belgium. But Antwerp is so

distinctly Flemish that you forget that bustling modern Brussels is

only thirty-six minutes away by the express--a fast train for once in

this land of snail expresses. No doubt the best manner of approaching

Antwerp is by the Scheldt on one of the big steamers that dock so

comfortably along the river. However, a trip to the vast _promenoir_

that overlooks the river gives an excellent idea of this thriving

port. The city--very much modernised during the past ten years--may

easily be seen in a few days, setting aside the museums and churches.

The quay promenade brings you to the old Steen Castle, and the Town

Hall with its _salle des marriages_, its mural paintings by the

industrious Baron Leys--frigid in style and execution--will repay you

for the trouble. The vestibules and galleries are noteworthy. We

enjoyed the façades of the ancient guild houses on the market-place

and watching the light play upon the old-time scarred front of the

cathedral that stands in the Place Verte. Then there are the

Zoological Garden, the Plantin Museum, the Théâtre Flamand, the

various monuments, and the spectacle of the busy, lively city for

those who do not go to Antwerp for its art. You may even go to

Hoboken, a little town in the suburbs not at all like the well-known

Sunday resort in Jersey.

The Royal Museum is displayed in a large square. It is a handsome

structure and the arrangement of the various galleries is simple. The

Rubenses, thirty-odd in all, are the _pièce de résistance_, and the

Flemish and Dutch Primitives of rare beauty. Bruges is better for

Memling, Brussels for Van der Weyden, Ghent for the Van Eycks, yet

Antwerp can boast a goodly number of them all. She exceeds Brussels in

her Rubenses for the larger altar pieces are here, just as at

Amsterdam the Rembrandts, while not numerous, take precedence because

of The Syndics and The Night Watch. The tumultuous, overwhelming Peter

Paul is in his glory at Antwerp. You think of some cataclysm when

facing these turbulent, thrilling canvases. If Raphael woos, Rubens

stuns. In the company of Michel Angelo and Balzac or Richard Wagner he

would be their equal for torrential energy and vibrating humanity. Not

so profound as Buonarroti, not so versatile as Balzac, he is their

peer in sheer savagery of execution. Setting aside the miles of

pictures signed by him though painted by his pupils, he must have

covered multitudes of canvas. Like men of his sort of genius, he ends

by making your head buzz and your eyes burn; and then, the sameness of

his style, the repetition of his wives and children's portraits, the

apotheosis of the Rubens family! He portrayed Helena Fourment and

Isabella Brandt in all stages of disarray and gowns. He put them

together on the same canvas. He did not hesitate to show them to the

world in all their opulent nudity. Their white skins, large eyes with

wide gaze, their lovely children appear in religious and mythologic

pictures at every turn you make in this museum. You become too

familiar with them. You learn to know that one wife was slenderer than

the other; you also realise that other days had other ways. Titian

painted the portrait of a noble dame quite naked and placed her

husband, soberly attired, near by. No one criticised the taste of this

performance. Manet, who was no Titian, did the same trick and was

voted wicked. He actually dared to show us Nana dressing in the

presence of a gentleman who sat in the same room with his hat on.

The heavy-flanked Percheron horses are of the same order as the Rubens

women. The Flemings are mighty feeders, mighty breeders,

good-tempered, pleasure-loving folk. They don't work as hard as the

Dutch, and they indulge in more feasting and holidays. The North seems

austere and Protestant when compared with this Roman Catholic land.

Its sons of genius, such as Rubens and Van Dyck, painted pictures that

do not reveal the deeper faith of the Primitives. No Christ or Mary of

either Van Dyck or Rubens sounds the poignant note of the

Netherlandish unknown mystic masters.

But what a banquet of beauty Rubens spreads for the eye! With him

painting reached its apogee, and in him were the seeds of its

decadence. He shattered the Florentine line; he, a tremendous

space-composer when he so wished, wielded his brush at times like a

scene-painter on a debauch. The most shocking, the loveliest things

happen on his canvases. Set the beautiful Education of the Virgin, in

this gallery, beside such a work as Venus and Vulcan at Brussels, and

you will see the scale in which he sported. Or the Virgin and Parrot,

with a child Christ who might have posed as a youthful Adonis, and the

Venus Frigida--both in Antwerp. A pagan was Rubens, for all his

religion. We prefer the Christ Crucified between Two Thieves or the

Christ on the Cross, the single figure, to the more famous Descent at

the Cathedral. But what can be said that is new about Rubens or Van

Dyck? In the latter may be noted the beginnings of deliquescence. He

is a softened Rubens, a Rubens aristocratic. The portraits here are

prime, those of the Bishop of Antwerp, Jean Malderus, and of the young

girl with the two dogs. His various Christs are more piteous to behold

than those of his master, Rubens. The feminine note is present, and

without any of the realism which so shocks in the conceptions of the

Primitives. Nevertheless we turn to his portraits or to the little boy

standing at a table. There is the true key of Van Dyck. He met Rubens

as a portraitist and took no odds of him.

Lucas Cranach's Adam and Eve is a variation of the picture in the

Brussels gallery. A Gossaert portrait catches the eye, the head and

bust of a man; then you find yourself staring in wonderment at the

Peter Breughels and Jerome Bosches with their malodorous fantastic

versions of temptations of innumerable St. Anthonys. The air is thick

with monsters, fish-headed and splay of foot. St. Anthony must have

had the stomach of an ostrich and the nerves of a politician to endure

such sights and sounds and witches. Such females! But Peter and his

two sons are both painters of interest. There are better Teniers in

Brussels, though Le Chanteur is admirable. Ostade's Smoker is a

masterpiece. Only four Rembrandts, the portrait of a woman, according

to Vosmaer and W. Burger that of his wife Saskia; a fisherman's boy,

the Burgomaster, and the Old Jew. Dr. Bode thinks that the last two

are by Nikolas Maes. The portrait of Eleazer Swalmius--the so-called

Burgomaster Six--is finely painted as to head and beard. The Antwerp

Museum paid two hundred thousand francs for the work. We must not

forget mention of a David Teniers, a loan of Dr. Bredius, a

still-life, a white dead goose superb in tone.

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