II

Heedless of the weather, heedless of the rumour of plundered caravans,

Eliza removed her husband as soon as possible for the interior, and some

account must now be given of their adventures. Her pen is our guide.

Through flood and blood it keeps its way, curbed only by her fear of the

Turkish Censor, and by her desire to conceal her forebodings from

friends at home. As soon as misfortunes have occurred she will describe

them. But about the future she is always confident and bright, and this

gallant determination to make the best of trouble gives charm to a

character that is otherwise unsympathetic.

The Fays selected the river route. Since the Mahmoudieh Canal had not

been cut, they had to reach the Rosetta mouth of the Nile by sea. They

were nearly drowned crossing its bar, and scarcely were they through

when a boat of thieves shot out from the bank and caused Mr. Fay to fire

off two pistols at once. They outsailed their pursuers, and sped up the

lower reach to Rosetta, then a more important place than Alexandria and

apparently a tidier place. Eliza was delighted. Thoughts of England and

of the English Bible at once welled up in her mind.

There is an appearance of cleanliness in Rosetta, the more

gratifying because seldom met with in any degree so as to remind

us of what we are accustomed to at home. The landscape around

was interesting from its novelty, and became peculiarly so on

considering it as the country where the children of Israel

sojourned. The beautiful, I may say the unparalleled story of

Joseph and his brethren rose to my mind as I surveyed these

banks on which the Patriarch sought shelter for his old age,

where his self-convicted sons bowed down before their younger

brother, and I almost felt as if in a dream, so wonderful

appeared the circumstance of my being here.

It is news that Jacob ever resided in the province of Behera. Passing by

this, and by the Pyramids which they only saw from a distance, we

accompany the Fays to Boulac, “the port of Grand Cairo,” where their

troubles increased. Restrictions against Christians being even severer

here than at Alexandria, Mrs. Fay had to dress as a native before she

might enter the city. “I had in the first place a pair of trousers with

yellow leather half-boots and slippers over them”; then a long satin

gown, another gown with short sleeves, a robe of silk like a surplice,

muslin from her forehead to her feet, and over everything a piece of

black silk. “Thus equipped, stumbling at every step, I sallied forth,

and with great difficulty got across my noble beast; but as the veil

prevented me breathing freely I must have died by the way.” She rode

into the European enclave where terror and confusion greeted her. The

rumour about the caravan proved only too true. Complete details had just

arrived. It had been plundered between Cairo and Suez, its passengers

had been killed or left to die in the sun, and, worse still, the Turkish

authorities were so upset by the scandal that they proposed murdering

the whole of the European community in case the news leaked out. It was

thought that Mrs. Fay might be safe with an Italian doctor. As she

waddled across to his house her veil slipped down so that a passer

reprimanded her severely for indecency. Also she fell ill.

There broke out a severe epidemical disease with violent

symptoms. People are attacked at a moment’s warning with

dreadful pains in stiff limbs, a burning fever with delirium and

a total stoppage of perspiration. During two days it increases,

on the third there comes on uniformly a profuse sweat (pardon

the expression) with vomiting which carries all off.

But as soon as her disease culminated, out she sallied to see the

ceremonies connected with the rise of the Nile. They disappointed and

disgusted her.

Not a decent person could I distinguish among the whole group.

So much for this grand exhibition, which we have abundant cause

to wish had not taken place, for the vapours arising from such a

mass of impurity have rendered the heat more intolerable than

ever. My bedchamber overlooks the canal, so that I enjoy the

full benefit to be derived from its proximity.

Events by now were taking a calmer turn. Mr. Fay, who had also had the

epidemic, was restored to such vitality as he possessed, and the Turkish

authorities had been persuaded by a bribe of £3000 to overcome their

sensitiveness and to leave the European colony alive. The terrible

journey remained, but beyond it lay India and perhaps a fortune.