On Sunday, the 22d, we anchored off a small island near to the isle of

Billaton. At two A. M. we weighed, and ten minutes afterwards the ship

struck on a shoal. All our exertions to get her off proved abortive, and

in this uncomfortable position we remained till the following Thursday,

when she again floated, after throwing overboard the guns, and landing

such stores as we could on the island. This accident and light winds

lengthened our passage to Anger (the Dutch settlement in Java) to

twenty-one days; and there we remained five days, to ascertain the rate

of our chronometers. This Dutch settlement at Anger, although slightly

fortified, might be made a place of great consequence: both outward and

homeward bound vessels touch here for water and stock; and were it

properly supported and improved by the Dutch, as it should be, it would

command a great deal of trade, and during war be of great consequence.

It is governed by a Dutch military officer, and is garrisoned with about

fifty soldiers. The country is remarkably fine here, the plains richly

cultivated and covered with cattle. The farmers complain bitterly of the

taxes imposed upon them by the Dutch, taxes so onerous that no native

has a chance of realising any profits of consequence; but this is Dutch

policy, and very unwise policy it is. We now thought that we were about

to proceed to the isle of France direct, but we were mistaken: we

weighed anchor, and proceeded to the Cocoa islands. This is a low group

of islands literally covered with cocoa-nut trees. These islands are

possessed by a Mr. Ross, formerly mate of a merchant vessel. His family

consisted of two sons and two daughters, and are the only Europeans who

reside there. We could not help thinking that the Misses Ross had very

little chance of getting husbands. The remainder of the population,

amounting to about 120 souls, are all black. They extract the oil from

the cocoa-nut, and trade with it to Java, from whence they procure the

necessary supplies. Whalers occasionally call here to obtain fresh

provisions; but the visit of a man-of-war was quite an event.

From the Cocoas we steered for the Cagardos Carahos shoals, where we

remained for more than a fortnight, surveying. There are several islands

close to these shoals, which are in the shape of a crescent. They are

very dangerous, being in the direct track of ships from China and the

Indies.

Indeed, we had ocular proof of their dangerous position, for there were

seven or eight wrecks upon them, and the small islands of sand were

crowded with masts, spars, chests, interspersed with human bones

bleaching in the powerful sun. On one of the islands we discovered the

remains of the British ship Letitia, which was wrecked in September,

1845. At a short distance from the beach was the grave of the captain,

who was drowned in attempting to reach the shore with a bag of dollars.

Had he not held on so tight to the bag, he would in all probability have

been saved, as were all the rest on board of her. It certainly would be

very advisable to build a lighthouse upon these shoals; the expense

would be nothing compared to the loss of property and life which they

occasion every year. From the Cagardos Carahos we proceeded to the

Mauritius. Here we found the President, bearing the flag of Admiral

Dacres, and the Snake brig just arrived from England.

Port Louis has been too often described to be mentioned here. Behind it

rose a range of mountains, the highest of which are about 1400 feet

above the level of the sea, and completely shelter the town from the S.

E. gales, which at this period of the year blow with great violence.

Among these mountains is the famous Peter-Botte, and we looked upon it

with great interest, in consequence of the daring and successful attempt

made a few years since by some Englishmen to attain the summit of it.

Even now, although we know that it has been done, it appears to be

impossible. One of the leaders of this expedition was Lieutenant Thomas

Keppel, the brother of our favourite Captain Henry Keppel, and this

circumstance gave it more interest to us; but T. Keppel has since left

the service, and is now a Reverend, moored in a snug _Creek_, and has

quite given over climbing up Peter-Bottes. During the short time that we

remained at this delightful island, we received every kindness and

attention from the governor and his lady, and the officers of the two

regiments stationed there.

[Illustration: PORT LOUIS.

(MAURITIUS.)

F. M. DELT.

M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS

LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848]

From the Mauritius we proceeded to the Cape of Good Hope. On the morning

of the 24th of September we hove in sight of the Table Mountain, but it

was not until the 26th that we cast anchor in Simon's Bay. Here we

remained for a month, waiting for the arrival of the mail from England.

At last it arrived, but not bringing us, as our captain hoped, the order

for his return to India, on the 24th of October we made sail for

England, and, calling at St. Helena and Ascension _en route_, on the

last day of the year we dropped our anchor at Spithead. We were not,

however, emancipated till the 18th day of January, on which day the ship

was paid off, for which, and all other mercies, may the Lord be

praised!

OBSERVATIONS

UPON

THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO.

It is with diffidence that I take up my pen to offer a few remarks upon

the prospects afforded to our commerce and manufactures by the opening

of the Eastern Archipelago. Hitherto I have done little more than

narrate what I have seen, and have seldom made any attempt to express

what I have thought. However, as my thoughts have been generated from

what I have observed, whether I am correct or not in my opinions, I

shall venture to lay them before my readers.

How it is that until lately we have never taken any notice of this

immense archipelago it is difficult to say, unless we are to suppose

that, up to the present, the other portions of the inhabited globe have

been found sufficient to consume our manufactures as fast as they could

be produced. It does appear strange that an assemblage of islands,

which, large and small, amounting to about 12,000 in number, equal in

territory to any continent, and so populous, for the inhabitants,

including the more northern islands, are estimated at fifty millions,

should have hitherto been unnoticed, and, at all events, have not

attracted the attention of our government. Moreover, there are such

facilities of communication, not being compelled, as with the Chinese,

to confine ourselves to five or six ports, at which the whole trade is

centred in the hands of a monopoly, taxed with the expences of

land-carriage, port duties, and other exactions. Here, on the contrary,

from the division of the territory into so many portions, we possess all

the advantages of inland navigation, if I may use such a term, for the

straits and channels between them serve as large rivers do on the

continents to render the communication with the interior easy and

accessible. And yet, although we have had possession of the East Indies

for so many years, this archipelago has been wholly neglected. At all

events, the discovery of it, for it is really such, has come in good

time, and will give a stimulus to our manufactures, most opportune, now

that we have so much increased them, that we are in want of customers.

Still we have, almost unknown to ourselves, been advancing towards it

step by step. The taking possession of the island of Sincapore was the

first and greatest stride towards it. Had it not been that we had

founded that settlement, we probably should not have been nearer to

Borneo now, than we were fifty years ago. Sir T. Raffles conferred a

great boon upon this country, and is entitled to its gratitude for

pointing out the advantages which would accrue from this possession.

Till we had made a settlement there, we knew no more of the eastern

archipelago, than what had been obtained by our circumnavigators, or of

the produce of it, further than that Borneo was the country from which

could be obtained the orang-outang.

Latterly we have been at some trouble and expence in forcing our trade

with China, little aware that almost in the route to China we had an

opening for commerce, which, in a few years, judiciously managed, will

become by far the most lucrative of the two, and what perhaps is still

more important, may be the means of a most extended trade with China, as

we can drive the Chinese from the archipelago, and supply China from

them ourselves; but of that hereafter.

One cause, perhaps, which has prevented us from turning our attention in

this direction has been, an unwillingness to interfere with the Dutch,

who have been supposed to have been in possession of all the valuable

islands in the archipelago, and from long-standing to have a prior right

to this portion of the East; but, although the Dutch have not been idle,

and are gradually adding to their possessions, there is little chance of

our interfering with them, as there is room, and more, for the Dutch,

ourselves, and every other nation which may feel inclined to compete

with us. The possessions of the Dutch are but a mere strip in this

immense field; and, although it is true that they have settlements on

the Spice Islands, so named, yet we now know that every one of these

islands may be made spice islands, if the inhabitants are stimulated by

commerce to produce these articles of trade.

It was the settlement at Sincapore which first gave us a notion of the

trade which might be carried on with this archipelago. Every year large

fleets of prahus have come up to Sincapore laden with commodities for

barter, and have taken in exchange European goods to a certain extent;

but their chief object has been to obtain gunpowder and shot, to carry

on their piratical expeditions. In fact, they are traders when they can

only obtain what they want by exchange; but when they can obtain it by

force, they then change their character, and become pirates. But our

possession of Labuan has brought us about eight hundred miles nearer to

these people, and enables us to take more effectual steps towards the

suppression of piracy than we have hitherto done; for this we may lay

down as an axiom, that we never shall reap the advantages promised to us

by commerce in this archipelago till we have most effectually put an end

to the piracy which has existed in these quarters for centuries. Before

I go on, I cannot help here observing how much this country is indebted

to Mr. Brooke for his unwearied exertions in the cause of humanity, and

his skilful arrangements. It is to be hoped, that our gratitude to him

will be in proportion, and that Her Majesty's ministers will, in their

distribution of honour and emoluments among those who have served them,

not forget to bestow some upon one who has so well served his country.

The largest, and perhaps the most important of the islands in this

archipelago, although at present the most barbarous, and the most

hostile to us, is that of Papua, or New Guinea. The inhabitants are as

well inclined to commerce as the other natives of the archipelago, and

do at present carry on a considerable trade with the Chinese, who repair

there every year in their junks, which they fill with valuable cargoes

adapted for the Chinese market. The Chinese have found the trade with

New Guinea so lucrative, that they are doing all that they can to secure

the monopoly of it, and with this view take every occasion, and do all

that they possibly can, to blacken the character of the Europeans in the

minds of the inhabitants. It is to this cause that the Papuan's

hostility to Europeans, and especially to the English, is to be

ascribed; and before we have any chance of commerce with this people, it

is necessary that the Chinese should be driven away from the island,

that they may no longer injure us by their malicious fabrications. This

will be but a just retribution for the falsehoods and lies which they

have circulated to our disadvantage. And there is another reason why we

should be little scrupulous in taking this measure, which is, that one

of their principal articles of commerce with the Papuans consists in

slaves, which are taken on board by the Chinese, and sold at Borneo, and

the adjacent islands of the archipelago, at a great profit. To obtain

these slaves, the Chinese stimulate the Papuan tribes to war with each

other, as is done for the same purpose in Africa. As this traffic is

very considerable, and we are as much bound to put down the slave trade

in the east as in the west, we have full warrant for driving their junks

away, and, by so doing, there is little doubt but that in a few years we

shall secure all the valuable trade of this island to ourselves.

Borneo is, however, the island (or continent) to which our first

attention will be particularly devoted. Up to the present we know little

of it except its coasts and a portion of its rivers; but it is here that

our principal attention must be given, as in its rivers and the island

of Sooloo the chief piratical hordes exist. We have already had some

sharp conflicts with them, and have given them some severe lessons; but

although we have given them a momentary check, and some idea of our

immense superiority, we must not imagine that two or three successful

conflicts are sufficient to put an end to a system which has been

carried on for centuries, and which is so universal, that the whole of

the present generation may be said to have been "born pirates." In fact,

we shall be compelled to subdue them wholly, to destroy them in all

their fastnesses, to leave them without a prahu in their possession, to

depose or confine their chiefs, to destroy their forts, and to carry on

a war of extermination for some years, before we shall put down the

piratical system which at present exists. It is not quite so easy a task

as may be imagined to reform so many millions of people: for it must be

remembered that it is not only at Borneo that we shall have to act, but

that we must destroy the power of the sultan of Sooloo, and other tribes

who frequent other islands, and who follow the same profession. It must

not be forgotten that one of the principal objects of these piratical

excursions is to procure slaves for sale at other ports; and perhaps

this is by far the most profitable part of the speculation. As long as

there is no security for the person, commerce must languish, and be

proportionably checked. In putting down these marauders, we are,

therefore, putting down the slave trade as with the Chinese at New

Guinea. The sooner that this is effected the better; and to do it

effectually we should have a large force at Labuan, ready to act with

decision. Let it be remembered that, with people so crafty and so cruel

as the Malays and descendants of the Arabs, lenity is misplaced, and is

ascribed to cowardice. No half measures will succeed with them. Indeed,

I have my doubts whether it will not be necessary to destroy almost

every prahu in the archipelago, and compel the natives to remain on

their territory, to cultivate or collect articles for barter, before we

shall effect our purpose; for the prahu that sails as a trader is

changed into a pirate as soon as temptation rises on her way. Indeed, if

Labuan becomes, as it will probably be, an emporium and dépôt for

European commerce, without such stringent measures a great stimulus

would be given to piracy. The peaceable trading parties, on their

return, would be laid in wait for by the piratical prahus, and the

English manufactures on board would be so tempting, and such a source of

wealth, that they would be irresistible. Neither should we be able to

afford any protection to the traders, as they would be laid in wait for

at the mouths or up the rivers, and would be captured without our

knowledge; with this difference, perhaps, that the fear of detection

would induce them to murder all the prisoners, instead of selling them

as slaves, as they do at present. Unless, therefore, the most stringent

measures are resorted to on our parts, an increase of commerce with this

archipelago would only occasion in a reciprocal ratio an increase of

piracy.

The occupation of Labuan and Sarawak will, I should imagine, prove

hardly sufficient to effect the important change to be desired, _i. e._

that of the total suppression of piracy. Stations, with forts, must be

established at the mouths of the principal rivers, that we may have a

constant watch upon the movements of the occupants. In so doing we

should be only encroaching upon those who have encroached upon others:

these rivers have been taken forcible possession of by the Malays and

Arabs, who have driven away the proprietors of the soil, which are the

Dyaks, the aborigines of the island; and they have no more right to the

possessions which they hold, than their chiefs have to the high-sounding

titles which they have assumed. That in taking this step we shall

interfere with no vested rights is certain: we shall merely be

dispossessing these piratical marauders of their strongholds; and the

cause of humanity will sufficiently warrant such interference on our

parts.

In our first attempts to establish, a peaceful and secure commerce with

this archipelago, it appears to me that it would be advisable for the

Government to take some share in the venture. Ten or twelve schooners,

well manned, confided to intelligent officers, and armed with one heavy

gun, and swivels in the gunwales, should sail for Labuan, with assorted

cargoes, with the view of both trading and checking piracy. Much depends

upon the way in which the barter is first commenced, and it would be as

well that it should not be left in the hands of adventurers, whose

mercenary feelings might induce them to excite doubt or irritation in

the minds of the natives, and, by such means, do great mischief, and

impede the trade. The constant appearance of these vessels in the

archipelago, the knowledge that they were sent, not only to barter, but

also to protect the well-disposed against violence and rapine, would

soon produce most beneficial effects, and would impose confidence.

Merchant vessels which entered the trade should be empowered, by letters

of marque, to put down piracy, and should be armed in a similar way.

Although there is little doubt but that in a short time vessels would

sail from Labuan with full cargoes for Europe, still it is more than

probable that the most important part of the trade, and which would

employ most vessels, would be the colonial trade, or rather, country

trade, to the several marts in the Indus and China. There are many

productions of the archipelago which are only valued in the East, such

as bêche-de-mer, or trepang; edible birds' nests, &c. This trade we

might very soon monopolise to ourselves, and a most lucrative one it

would prove. The following are the articles to be found in more or less

quantities over the whole of the Indian archipelago:--Antimony, tin,

gold, diamonds, pearls, sapphires, ivory, gums, camphor, sago, pepper,

tortoise-shell, mother-of-pearl, skins, wax, honey, cocoa-nut oil,

coffee, rice, and coal, edible birds' nests and trepang; all the

varieties of spices, as cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs, can be grown as soon

as there is a market for them; the cotton tree nourishes; and, although

not yet worked, it is proved that there is abundance of copper and lead.

An archipelago containing such rich productions, and which we may, with

some little trouble, receive in exchange for our manufactures, becomes a

national concern, and it is the paramount duty of the Government to take

every measure to facilitate the communication with it.

The expedition of Mr. Murray to the river Coti, on the south side of

Borneo, although, from imprudence, it ended not only unsuccessfully but

tragically, fully establishes that an opening for commerce is to be

established. In this expedition Mr. Murray, by his imprudence and

unguarded conduct, brought upon himself the attack of the natives, in

which he lost his own life, and the vessels with great difficulty

escaped. Since that failure, no English vessels have attempted to trade

to the south of Borneo; but we discovered that the Macassar boats paid

the coast an occasional visit, under Dutch colours, exchanging beads and

other trumpery for rich cargoes of ivory and skins. We also discovered

that commercial negotiations with this country would not be attended

with any risk, provided that the vessels employed were well armed, and

the arrangements were so made as not to excite the jealousy and

suspicion of the natives.

European manufactures would be eagerly purchased by the natives, and

would be paid for in ivory, rough ores, or dollars. Mr. Wyndham, who has

settled at Sooloo, has already sent a vessel to trade on the south-east

side of the island, near Gonong Tabor.

So much for the southern portion of this immense archipelago. We have

still to examine the more northern. Indeed, when we look upon the map,

and see the quantity of territory with which we may eventually find the

means of trading,--the millions who, but for the jealousy of the

governments, would be glad to receive our manufactures,--we are lost in

conjecture as to what extent it might eventually be driven. In the north

we should certainly have more difficulties to contend with; and it will

require that the whole of the naval force in India should be, for a

time, devoted to this object. I believe it is as much from their utter

ignorance of our power, as from any other cause, that we have hitherto

been so unsuccessful at Japan; but the object we have in view may be

effected, provided that a certain degree of the _fortiter in re_ be

combined with the _suaviter in modo_. The Japanese now carry on a large

trade with China, and also a confined trade with the Dutch, to whom they

have allowed a factory upon a small island; but they treat the Dutch

with the greatest indignity, and the Dutch submit to it, and, in so

doing, have rendered the Europeans vile in the estimation of the

Japanese. This is the error which must be destroyed by some means or

other, even if it should be necessary to pick a quarrel with them, as we

have already done with the Chinese. At the same time that I admit the

expediency of so doing, I by no means assert that we shall be altogether

justified.

There is another point worthy of consideration, which is, that a whale

fishery dépôt might be made with great success in this archipelago, any

where to the southward and eastward; and we might recover a large

portion of that lucrative employment, which, by the means of British

seamen employed in American vessels, has been wrested from us; for

although, at the commencement, the whale fishery from the States was

carried on by Americans only, since it has so enormously increased, at

least two-thirds of the people employed in the vessels are English

seamen, who have become expert in the profession. It is much to be

lamented that the laudable exertions of Mr. Enderby and others to revive

this lucrative employment for our vessels and seamen has hitherto

failed, and that some part of our surplus capital has not been devoted

to an object so important to us as a maritime country.

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