indefatigably. About twelve o'clock we ceased dancing, and preparations
were made for supper. This was laid on the floor, clean grass mats
serving as table cloths. The contents of the dishes were of the most
novel description, and rice was the only article which I could recognise
as unmixed. The repast spread, the host requested us to place ourselves.
I followed my pretty partner's example, and came to an anchor on the
floor alongside of her. I was most assiduous in helping her to whatever
she pointed out; and, as nearly as I can recollect, the plate contained
a curious medley of rice, prawns, fowls' legs, apples, besides other
articles unknown, at least to me. I had observed a total want of knives,
forks, and spoons, but this was explained when I saw that all ate with
their fingers. Seeing no objection to this primitive plan, I was about
getting a plate for myself, when I was informed by my partner, in the
most insinuating way, that I was to consider her plate as my own. I
fully appreciated the compliment, and at once commenced, assisting her
to demolish the pile that I had collected, as I thought, for her use
alone. On looking round I found that we were not singular, and that
every couple were, like us, dipping into one dish. Never was there a
more merry and delightful supper. As soon as it was over, which was not
very soon, for I could have gone on eating a long while for the very
pleasure of meeting the pretty little fingers in the plate, we rose, the
mats and dishes were cleared away, and we resumed the dancing, and it
was at a late hour that we made our _buenas nochas_ to the fair girls of
Samboangan.
We remained in this delightful little place for two days. Many of us
were inclined to remain there for life, if we could have escaped. We
made several excursions into the interior, and the more we saw the more
we were convinced that no place was so pretty as Samboangan.
March 3d.--Anchored in a port at Baselan, where the Spaniards had very
lately founded a colony. We found them very busy felling trees, clearing
backwood, and completing the stockade or fort. The natives of Baselan
are a courageous race, and were continually attacking the Spaniards,
occasionally with success. Two gun boats were lying off the town, but
the Spanish force is not sufficient to meet the attacks of the natives,
who continually surprise their outposts and decapitate their prisoners.
On our arrival a discharge of guns and fire-arms was kept up during the
whole night, fully proving the trouble which the Spaniards would have in
establishing and retaining their settlement here. It was a few miles
from this that the French were beaten off by the Malays or pirates, for
the terms are at Baselan synonymous.
March 5th.--Having completed the survey of this port, we made sail for
Balam-bangan. On our route we stopped at Cagayan Sooloo, where we fell
in with two piratical prahus. For reasons, not explained, these vessels
were not interfered with, although there was not the least doubt of
their occupation.
March 9.--The ship struck several times while threading her way through
a line of dangerous shoals to the eastward of Bangay; and on the same
evening we arrived at Balam-bangan.
The Royalist had been despatched about a month before to Sincapore, to
obtain provisions to enable us to survey the coast of Borneo.
Balam-bangan was the rendezvous appointed, and we expected to have found
her anchored there; but in this we were disappointed. The survey of
Balam-bangan was now commenced, and during our survey we discovered the
remains of the old English settlement. It may be as well here to
concisely narrate the history of its rise and fall. About the year 1766,
four ships, filled with troops and every thing requisite for the
formation of a colony, arrived at Balam-bangan, which was formally taken
possession of in the name of his Britannic Majesty. But unexpected
difficulties arose one after the other. The natives of Bangay, about
three miles distant, were hostile, and made repeated attacks upon them.
The soil was discovered not to be of that fertile nature which had been
represented; and unfortunately two of the ships were thrown on shore in
a gale, and every soul on board perished. These several disasters damped
their energies, and created a feeling of distrust among the settlers,
but still the original intention was not abandoned. The forts were
completed, a few houses rose, and as their comfort and security
increased, so did their hopes arise, and they worked with renewed
vigour. But their prosperous state excited the jealousy of the people of
Sooloo, which island is the emporium of the commerce between Borneo and
the other islands. The ruling powers of Sooloo considered that this
commerce must fall off if the English established themselves on an
island so well adapted for it in every respect as Balam-bangan, and they
resolved to attack the colony in its infant state. Perhaps they had
another reason, which was that they anticipated a rich booty, if
successful, and no doubt they were not disappointed. The attack was made
with an overwhelming force, and the English, although they bore
themselves bravely, could not resist it. Most of the colonists were
butchered, some few gained the ships in the harbour and sailed away to
the port from which the expedition was fitted out. Since that time no
further attempt to colonise this island has been made, nor, indeed, is
it likely that there will be, as Labuan is much more advantageously
situated in every respect.
The Royalist at last arrived: she had but few letters, but, valuable and
dear to us as letters always were, she brought intelligence that made
every heart, except one, beat with delight. Was it possible? Yes, it was
true--true! We were _ordered home_. Oh, the delight, the frantic joy,
which was diffused through the whole ship. To have witnessed the scene
we should have been considered as mad. Every one embracing one another,
shaking hands, animosities reconciled at once, all heart-burnings
forgotten: we could have hugged every thing we met--dogs, monkeys,
pigs--except the captain. All our sufferings and privations were
forgotten in the general ecstasy, and, although thousands of leagues
were still to be run before we could arrive at the desired goal, and
months must pass away, time and space were for the time annihilated,
and, in our rapture, we fancied and we spoke as if we were within reach
of our kindred and our homes. Could it be the Samarang that we were on
board of?--the same ship that we were in not one hour ago?--the silent,
melancholy vessel, now all hands laughing, screaming, huzzaing, dancing,
and polkaing up and down the deck like maniacs? And then when the
excitement was a little over, and we became more rational, Why were we
ordered home? was the first surmise. We had been sent out on a seven
years' expedition, and we had not yet been out four. The surveys were
not half finished. Was it the row that the captain had had with the
admiral, and the reports of many officers who had quitted the ship? We
made up our minds at last that it must have been upon the
representations of the admiral to the Admiralty that we had been ordered
home. There could be no other reason. We drank his health in nine times
nine.
[Illustration: ILLANOAN PIRATE.
(TAMPASSOOK, BORNEO.)
F. M. DELT.
M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS
LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848]
On the 24th of March we sailed from Balam-bangan, with the intention of
making a flying survey of the coast of Borneo, as far as the island of
Labuan and the country at Sarawak, to make the best of our way to
Sincapore, at which place we hoped to arrive about the 1st of May, there
to receive our final orders and start for England. It would be tedious,
and it is not necessary, to give a description of the survey which we
afterwards made. We went over the same ground as before, and we surveyed
with a musket in one hand and a sextant in the other, for the natives
were not to be trusted. Our warlike friends at Tampassook did not much
relish our re-appearance on their coast. A Spanish slave made his escape
from them and came on board, begging a passage to any where. He had been
taken prisoner, with six or seven others, in an engagement between the
Manilla gun boats and the Illanoan pirates, and had been very cruelly
treated. We learnt from this man that the pirates of Tampassook are very
rich, and possessed a large number of fine prahus. They had also plenty
of fire-arms, but were afraid of them, preferring their own weapons.
It was here that we heard the news of the murder of our old friends
Rajah Muda and Bud-ruddeen. It appeared that they had been accused of
being privy to the attack of the English on Maludu, and supporting our
claims to the island of Labuan. Bud-ruddeen died as he had lived, a
brave man, and worthy of a better fate. On the approach of his enemies
he retired to his house with his sister and favourite wife, both of whom
insisted upon sharing his destiny. For some time he fought like a lion
against a superior force, until his servants one by one fell dead. He
then retired dangerously wounded to an inner chamber, with his wife and
sister, and, allowing his enemies to follow him till the house was
filled with them, he fired his pistol into a barrel of gunpowder, which
had been placed in readiness, and at once destroyed himself, his
friends, and his enemies. But this barbarous murder on the part of the
sultan of Borneo and his advisers was not left unpunished. Sir Thomas
Cochrane went to Bruni with his squadron, and reduced the sultan to
submission and a proper respect for the English, and those who were
friendly with them.
As we approached Labuan we found it necessary to be on the _qui vive_,
as all the natives were hostile to us, and would have cut off our
surveying parties if they had had a chance. In the bay of Gaya, we met a
brother of Bud-ruddeen. He was the Rajah of the small province of
Kalabutan. Both he and his followers burned to revenge the death of a
man so universally beloved as Rajah Muda, and offered to accompany us
with their whole force to attack the city of Bruni. They came on board
of us with fowls, eggs, and fruits. They placed little value on dollars,
preferring white linen, handkerchiefs, and bottles, to any other article
in the way of traffic. We, therefore, as we were so soon going to
England, made no ceremony of parting with our old clothes in exchange
for stock; and the next vessel that visits the river will be surprised
at the quantity of midshipmen's jackets, sailors' hats, and marines'
boots, which will be worn by the inhabitants, in addition to their own
costume. Mr. Adams, the assistant surgeon, had obtained permission to
accept the Rajah's invitation to visit the town, which was some five or
six miles up the river. He saw nothing worthy of remark except some of a
tribe of aborigines (Dusums). Their only covering consisted of large
metal rings worn round the neck and hips.
[Illustration: NATIVES OF N. E. COAST OF BORNEO.]
While a party were observing on shore, a short distance to the northward
of Kalabutan, they were fired at by a party of natives concealed in the
jungle. The only person who was wounded was the Spaniard, whom we had
rescued at Tampassook, who was standing by the captain. The ball passed
through his arm, and grazed his body. The arms were handed out of the
gig, which was close at hand, and the enemy retreated into the wood. The
cutter then joined, and having a three-pounder on her bows, opened fire
upon the natives, who had re-assembled.. The first two or three shots
passed over their heads, and encouraged by no injury being done to them,
they came forward dancing, yelling, drawing their knives and spears in
defiance. But a shot passing through the body of the chief set them all
off. They bore him away on their shoulders, and did not afterwards make
their appearance. After cannonading the village for an hour, and doing
them all the mischief that we could, by destroying their fortifications,
burning one and carrying off another prahu, we returned on board, and
then made sail for the island of Labuan, where we arrived on the 25th of
April, 1846. Here our surveying was completed, and we made the best of
our way to Sarawak, where we arrived on the 30th of April. We learnt all
the news of the little colony from Dr. Treecher, who came to visit us.
[Illustration: DUSUM.
(N. COAST OF BORNEO.)
F. M. DELT.
M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS
LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848]
We found that Mr. Brooke had been recognised by Government, and that
Captain Bethune had been testing the capability of making Labuan a coal
dépot. Poor Williamson, the interpreter, and a great friend of ours, had
been drowned some months previous, while crossing the river at night in
a small canoe, and no doubt fell a prey to the alligators. He was not
only a very amiable, but a very clever fellow, and his loss was deeply
felt by every body.
Mr. Brooke was absent from Kuchin on an expedition to the Sakarran
river, in the Phlegethon steamer, to inquire into the particulars, and
punish, if necessary, an attack upon his Dyak allies by the natives of
Sakarran. Two Sakarran chiefs, accompanied by a great many war prahus,
had paid a visit to Mr. Brooke, and had been entertained by him in his
usual hospitable manner. At their departure he loaded the chiefs with
presents, for which they appeared to be extremely grateful. As a return
for this kindness, and to prove their sincerity as allies, the principal
chief left his son, a boy of twelve years of age, with Mr. Brooke. But
notwithstanding that this boy was as a hostage, they could not resist an
opportunity of plunder, and that very evening they ascended one of the
tributary streams of the Sarawak, attacked a village, and brought off
with them twenty-seven heads of the unfortunate Dyaks. When the news
arrived, Mr. Brooke was so much enraged at their treachery, that he
almost determined upon sacrificing the boy chief, as the natives
expected; but not wishing to visit the sins of the father upon the lad,
who was innocent, and fearful that his own people would not be so
forbearing, he returned the boy to his parents. We all felt annoyed that
we had not an opportunity of bidding farewell to Mr. Brooke, and
thanking him for his kindness to us whenever he had an opportunity of
showing it. He was, indeed, beloved by every body who had the pleasure
of his acquaintance.
Sailed for Sincapore. The next night we communicated with the Julia (Mr.
Brooke's vessel). She had on board Captain Elliott, and twenty-five
sepoys[3], who were to be stationed as a garrison at Kuchin. We were
much pleased to find that Government had taken up this cause so warmly,
and that Mr. Brooke was likely to be recognised by it, after all his
individual exertions. Our passage to Sincapore proved very tedious, all
hands upon short allowance, and no grog. We touched at Barren Island,
and obtained a large quantity of sea birds' eggs, but they were mostly
rotten; but this did not prevent our making omelets of them, for we were
now with only three days' provisions on board at half allowance, and the
calm still continued. Three days we were in sight of the island, the
sails flapped idly against the masts, and not a breath disturbed the
surface of the ocean wave. We thought of the tale of the Ancient
Mariner, and there were not wanting those on board who declared that
this continued calm was a judgment upon us, not for shooting an
albatross, but for robbing the nests of the eggs.
[Footnote 3: These sepoys were raised and _paid_ by Mr. Brooke.]
Our barges were sent to Sincapore for provisions, for famine was staring
us in the face, but that same night a breeze sprang up, and on the 20th
of May we dropped our anchor in the roads. At Sincapore we found the
Hazard, 18, whose crew suffered so much at New Zealand; and here also we
found, to our inexpressible delight, our orders for England, of which we
had begun to have some doubts. On the 14th of June arrived the Admiral,
in H. M. S. Agincourt, towed by the Spitfire steamer. As soon as he was
joined by the rest of the squadron, it was the intention of Sir T.
Cochrane to make sail for Bruni, and punish the six-fingered sultan and
his piratical advisers.
Sincapore, like all new settlements, is composed of so mixed a
community, that there is but little hospitality, and less gaiety. Every
one is waiting to ascertain what is to be his position in society, and
till then is afraid of committing himself by friendly intercourse;
moreover, every body is too busy making money. The consequence is, but
few parties are given, and a ball is so rare that it becomes the subject
of conversation for months. There are some good-looking girls at
Sincapore, but it is only at church or on parade that a stranger obtains
a glimpse of them. Prudery is at present the order of the day, and this
is carried to such an extent from non-intercourse, that at a farewell
ball given to the Cambrians, the women would only polka and waltz with
each other.
The country immediately outside the town of Sincapore is spotted with
little bungaloes, the retreat of the merchants from the monotonous
business-life which they are compelled to lead. The plantations of
nutmegs and beetle-nut which surround these country residences are very
luxuriant; and at this time the fruit was on the trees, and the odour
quite delightful. One male tree is planted for every ten females. Very
little cloves or cinnamon are grown at this settlement, but I saw some
specimens. A nutmeg tree is valued, when it once arrives to full
bearing, at a guinea a year. The Areca-palm is a very beautiful tree,
and requires but little attention: these and cocoa-nut are valued at a
dollar per year. Large quantities of sugar-cane are now grown here, and
some fine sugar-mills are built in the vicinity of the town. The roads
are kept in good repair by the convicts, and are now really very
respectable.
The Chinese joss-house here is considered very fine, and I made a
drawing of it. It has some good stone carving and figures, but is very
inferior to that of Ningpo. During the time that I was drawing it was
filled with Chinese, who were very inquisitive and troublesome: the only
method I could devise for keeping them off was by filling a bowl full of
vermilion, and when their curiosity overcame their prudence, and they
came rubbing up against me, daubing their faces with the colour--this
plan, accompanied with a kick, proved effectual.
[Illustration: CONVICT.]
Sincapore being the penal settlement of India, there are a large number
of convicts here, who are chained, and work at the roads and bridges.
One night I visited the gaol, and was taken over it by an overseer. We
first visited the Chinese department. Two long benches ran along the
room, on which were stretched some thirty men. As the overseer passed he
struck each man with his rattan, and in a moment they were all sitting
up, rubbing their eyes, and looking as innocent as possible. They were
all confined for murder, and were a most rascally-looking set. From this
room we proceeded to another, fitted in the same manner, and filled with
Indians. Many of them were branded on the forehead with "Doomga," which
signifies murder; and in some cases the brand was both in Hindostanee
and English. Leaving them, we entered a small room close to the gates of
the gaol, and guarded by a sentry. In this room were confined the most
reckless characters. They were but eight in number. Parallel to the
bench ran a long iron rod, and to this they were shackled, both hands
and feet. The first man among them pointed out to me by the overseer was
a fine-looking grey-bearded Indian, of great stature, and with the eyes
of a tiger. He had been formerly a rich shipowner at Bombay; but having
been convicted of insuring his vessels to a large amount, and then
setting fire to them, his property was confiscated by the government,
and he was sentenced to work for life in chains. It is said that he has
offered a million rupees to any man who will knock off his irons. His
son carries on the business at Bombay, and it was reported that a vessel
was always lying at Sincapore ready to receive him in case he should
effect his escape; but of this there does not appear to be the slightest
chance, as he is particularly watched and guarded.
[Illustration: KLING WOMAN.]
The next culprits pointed out to us were two of the heads of the secret
society of India. So much has already been said of this extraordinary
association, that I need not discuss it here. There is, however, a
society in Sincapore of a similar nature, composed of all the lower
orders of the Chinese. It is said to amount to 15,000; and the police is
much too weak to prevent the robberies, although some check is put to
them by the presence of the military. It must not be supposed that
because there are 15,000 in the society, that there are that quantity of
robbers: such is not the case. Of course it is difficult to arrive at
the regulations of any secret society, but as far as can be collected,
they are as follows. A certain portion of the society are regular
thieves, and these in a body compel those who are inoffensive to join
the society, by threats of destruction of property, &c. If the party
joins the society, all that is expected of him is, that he will aid and
assist to prevent the capture, and give an asylum to any one of the
society who may be in danger. The richest Chinese merchants have been
compelled to join, and lend their countenance to this society, upon pain
of destruction of their property, and even assassination, if they
refuse; and as they have more than once put their threats into
execution, the merchants have not the courage to resist. Shortly after
our arrival at Sincapore, the burial of one of the chiefs of the society
took place; and such was the concourse assembled to witness the funeral,
that it was thought advisable to call out the troops, as a skirmish was
expected to take place. However, every thing passed off quietly.
The richest Chinaman at Sincapore is Whampoa: he supplies the navy with
stores, and has a thriving business. His country house is a favourite
resort of the naval officers, and he gives excellent dinners, and very
agreeable parties. His champagne is particularly approved of.
There is little or no amusement at Sincapore. During the afternoon every
body is asleep. In the cool of the evening half a dozen palanquins, and
perhaps a few gigs, may be seen driving on the parade: these proceed at
a steady pace round the grass-plot for about an hour; and this is the
only exercise taken. Fashion is very drowsy here, and only wakes up
occasionally, that she may sleep the longer afterwards. From the want of
hospitality, the evenings are passed by strangers at the hotels, playing
billiards, smoking, and drinking. The hotels are very good, in
consequence of the steamers from Bombay to Hong Kong touching here; they
are fitted up with an unusual degree of comfort; and the charges are, of
course, not very moderate. The markets are well supplied with fruit,
vegetables, and stock of all kinds. Among the fruits must be mentioned
the mangostein, which is brought from Malacca; and the pine-apples from
the island of St. John's. The opposite side of the island upon which
Sincapore is built is well wooded. A great many tigers swim over from
the main, and pits are dug for their destruction, 100 dollars being
given by government for every tiger killed.
On the 18th we received our final orders, and took our farewell of
Eastern India; but it must not be supposed that we made the best of our
passage to England. On the contrary, the captain was as anxious to
remain out as we were to get home; and we were six months and twelve
days from the time that we left Sincapore till our arrival at
Portsmouth. The fact was, that the pay and emoluments of a surveying
captain are such, that our captain felt no inclination to be paid off;
and as he never spent any money, he was laying up a nice provision for
his retirement; besides which he hoped that, upon his representations to
the Admiralty, the order for his recall would be cancelled, and that he
would find a letter to that effect at the Cape of Good Hope. His object,
therefore, was to spin out the time as much as possible, so as to allow
the answer of the Admiralty to arrive at the Cape before we did. We were
ordered to survey some shoals, the Cagardos Carahos, on our passage
home; but I believe nothing more.