The position of an European ambassador's household in Pera in the

eighteenth century, was by no means entirely pleasant, and indeed it

was not wholly without risks, even for an ambassador's wife. Lady

Mary, however, went everywhere and saw everything, and, in the midst

of a good deal of domestic discomfort, accommodated herself amazingly

to the cosmopolitan and polyglot life which she came to delight in. "I

live," she wrote, "in a place that very well represents the tower of

Babel, in Pera they speak Turkish, Greek, Hebrew, Armenian, Arabic,

Persian, Russian, Slavonian, Wallachian, German, Dutch, French,

English, Italian, Hungarian, and what is worse, there are ten of these

languages spoken in my own family." Children of three years old often

speak five languages, she says, a statement that would be as nearly

true now as it was then. This she professes to find annoying, it was

really delightful, other things were not so pleasant.

Constantinople in earlier times had not been a pleasant resort for

ambassadors. The _Mémoires sur l'ambassade de France en Turquie_,

written by M. le Comte de Saint-Priest, at the end of the eighteenth

century, show how difficult and dangerous had been the position of the

envoys. They are a brilliant sketch of the work of the able French

ambassadors who had endeavoured from the time of Francis I. and

Suleiman the Magnificent, to confirm an alliance which should secure

to France a flourishing trade in the Levant, and a powerful ally

against the House of Hapsburg. Their success was considerable, but it

was not infrequently interfered with by their own eccentricities.

Savari de Lancosme (1585) was so rash that his cousin Savari de Brèves

was sent out to supersede him, and he promptly induced the Turks to

imprison him in the Seven Towers.

Achille de Harlay Sanay (1611-17) procured the escape of an imprisoned

Pole, and was in consequence himself "outragé en sa personne et celle

de ses gens" and made to pay 20,000 piastres. The Comte de Marcheville

in 1639, found "le logis de l'ambassadeur si infâme, qu'on ne se

pouvait imaginer qu'un ambassadeur effectif pût y demeurer." He built,

among other additions, two chapels, "one public, the other interior."

The Turks were furiously enraged, and after a good deal of acrimonious

complaints, in which the people of Galata shared, the unhappy

ambassador was expelled the country. De la Haye, a few years later,

spent three months in the Seven Towers, and M. de Vautelec also had

unpleasant experiences. M. de Ferriol, illuminating his house on the

occasion of the birth of a French prince, found himself in danger of

expulsion. As late as 1798, a French ambassador, on the declaration of

war, was imprisoned as usual in the Seven Towers.

Lady Mary's friend the French ambassadress might tell her of some of

these catastrophes, but she shows no fear that they would happen to

herself. Her descriptions were evidently written with perfect freedom,

day by day, and it is that which preserves their freshness after

nearly two centuries. A passage or two will bring vividly before us

what English folk then thought of the Turkish power, and of the sights

of the capital.

Here she speaks of the Constitution, just as an orthodox English

politician would wish to speak.

"The Grand Signior, with all his absolute power, is as much a slave as

any of his subjects, and trembles at a Janizary's frown. Here is,

indeed, a much greater appearance of subjection than amongst us; a

minister of state is not spoke to, but upon the knee; should a

reflection on his conduct be dropt in a coffee-house (for they have

spies everywhere) the house would be raz'd to the ground, and perhaps

the whole company put to torture. No huzzaing mobs, senseless

pamphlets, and tavern disputes about politics;

A consequential ill that freedom draws;

A bad effect,--but from a noble cause.

None of our harmless calling names! but when a minister here

displeases the people, in three hours time he is dragged even from his

master's arms. They cut off his hands, head, and feet, and throw them

before the palace gate, with all the respect in the world; while the

Sultan (to whom they all profess an unlimited adoration) sits

trembling in his apartment, and dares neither defend nor revenge his

favourite. This is the blessed condition of the most absolute monarch

upon earth, who owns no law but his will."

To live close to such scenes was an education in Oriental politics.

Lady Mary lived still nearer to the outward show and pomp of the

Oriental despots. The state of the Sultans was reflected on the

ambassadors of powers with whom they desired to be friendly. When she

travelled from Selivria, along the shore of the Marmora, Lady Mary

and her husband had from the "Grand Signior" "thirty covered waggons

for our baggage, and five coaches for the country for my women." Of

the Sultan's own state she was most impressed, as travellers are

to-day, by the Selamlik. Thus she describes it:

"I went yesterday, along with the French ambassadress, to see the

Grand Signior in his passage to the mosque. He was preceded by a

numerous guard of Janizaries, with vast white feathers on their heads,

as also by the spahis and bostangees (these are foot and horse guards)

and the royal gardeners, which are a very considerable body of men,

dressed in different habits of fine lively colours, so that, at a

distance, they appeared like a parterre of tulips. After them the Aga

of the Janizaries, in a robe of purple velvet, lined with silver

tissue, his horse led by two slaves richly dressed. Next him the

kyzlier-aga (your ladyship knows this is the chief guardian of the

Seraglio ladies) in a deep yellow cloth (which suited very well to his

black face) lined with sables. Last came his Sublimity himself,

arrayed in green, lined with the fur of a black Muscovite fox, which

is supposed worth a thousand pounds sterling, and mounted on a fine

horse, with furniture embroidered with jewels. Six more horses, richly

caparisoned were led after him; and two of his principal courtiers

bore, one his gold, and the other his silver coffee-pot, on a staff;

another carried a silver stool on his head for him to sit on."

Her skill certainly lay chiefly in describing social functions or

eccentricities, and her description of S. Sophia--indeed she makes an

apology for her ignorance of architecture--shows a characteristic

absence of feeling or artistic knowledge. What she says of the mosque

of Suleiman however, is worth quoting.

"That of Sultan Solyman, is an exact square, with four fine towers in

the angles; in the midst is a noble cupola, supported with beautiful

marble pillars; two lesser at the ends, supported in the same manner;

the pavement and gallery round the mosque, of marble; under the great

cupola, is a fountain, adorned with such fine coloured pillars, that I

can hardly think them natural marble; on one side is the pulpit of

white marble, and on the other the little gallery for the Grand

Signior. A fine stair-case leads to it, and it is built up with gilded

latrices. At the upper end is a sort of altar, where the name of God

is written; and, before it, stand two candlesticks, as high as a man,

with wax candles as thick as three flambeaux. The pavement is spread

with fine carpets, and the mosque illuminated with a vast number of

lamps. The court leading to it, is very spacious, with galleries of

marble, of green columns, covered with twenty-eight leaded cupolas on

two sides, and a fine fountain of basons in the midst of it."

The liberality which allowed Christian ladies to see the mosques, and

even permitted Lady Mary, in spite of the horror of her friends and

the terrified protests of the French ambassadress, to go about in

Stambûl much as she would have walked in S. James's, was especially

the characteristic of the reign of Suleiman II., himself something of

a _savant_, and of Ahmed II., who actually allowed a printing press to

be established in the city. But none the less society and government

were essentially barbarous. Ahmed III. was himself deposed in 1730 by

an insurrection of the Janissaries. His nephew Mahmûd I., son of

Mustafa II., was his successor. Again within three weeks the leaders

of the revolution were executed before his face. "These executions," it

is quaintly said, "when they became known, instead of exciting the

slightest sedition, gave the greatest joy to the inhabitants of the

capital." Step by step the Turks lost ground, by treaties with Persia

(1732) and with Austria and Russia, by the mediation of France

(Belgrade, 1739); and the new policy of governing the lands of

Wallachia and Moldavia by "Fanariotes" (Greeks of the ancient families

who still dwelt in the Phanar), was far from successful. In

Constantinople itself there were _émeutes_ if not insurrections, and

incendiary fires which gave occasion for them. They were the usual

means of expressing dissatisfaction with the government, and the usual

means were taken to meet them, by the execution of the Sultan's

ministers. Mahmûd died in 1754. He was thought at least to have done

no harm; and his successor, Osman III., was regarded as equally

blameless.

Mustafa III. (1757-1774) had been many years in the Kafess. He was the

son of Ahmed III. His reign was a succession of misfortunes. The

astute policy of Catherine II. and her agents in Serbia and Croatia,

arousing the religious enthusiasm of the Christians against the

Moslems, the utter neglect of the Turkish army and ordnance, the

ignorance of the ministers, and the superstition of the people, seemed

to invite a certain and immediate destruction of the Empire. Disaster

after disaster at last awoke the Sultan and his ministers to the

necessity of employing European aid, and the French ambassador

Saint-Priest with the Baron de Tott was successful in reforming the

army, introducing the bayonet, founding a school of mathematics, and

infusing a new spirit into the Turks.

Mustafa died in 1774, at a time of unexpected success. He had seen at

least the necessity of reform. Abdul Hamed I., his brother, who

succeeded him, had been forty-four years a captive. He was not the

prince to restore the power of his Empire: the treaty of

Kutchuk-Kainardji (1774) further reduced its territory, and gave the

cause for war eighty years afterwards by the clause allowing to Russia

a right to represent to the Porte the grievances of the Christians in

European Turkey. In 1788 the Crimea was captured by Russia; in 1789

Abdul Hamed died. His nephew Selim III. (1789-1807) had to deal with

all the difficulties introduced into the East by the partition of

Poland, the schemes of Napoleon, and the Mediterranean policy of Pitt.

To follow these wars which resulted from the new political situation

would be impossible. It need only be said that the French occupation

of Egypt, and the decisive entrance of England into the Eastern

question created as great a revolution in the position of Turkey as

had occurred in any Monarchy of the West. The old alliance with France

was broken. It became the interest of England to preserve the

tottering power of Turkey as a counterpoise to Russia, and as a

security for her own interests in the East.

Internally Turkey, under the energetic Selim, made a new start. A

cannon foundry was begun at Galata, the Top-haneh so familiar to-day:

new troops, drilled and armed after the European fashion were

embodied; new taxes were levied, and a financial administration was

organized which made some pretence of following Western ideas.

After what has been said so often, it may almost go without saying

that there was an insurrection of the Janissaries to express the

orthodox opinion of these reforms. The separation of the artillery

from the Janissaries, and the creation of new regiments of infantry

for Constantinople, to act as a counterpoise to the Janissaries,

caused a serious revolt which was entirely successful, and the Sultan

was obliged to receive the Aga as his chief minister. In the very

midst of these troubles occurred the famous mission of Colonel

Sébastiani, which led to the forcing of the Dardanelles by the English

fleet under Admiral Duckworth. The fleet destroyed a small Turkish

flotilla in the Marmora and cast anchor before the city. It was

centuries since the people of Constantinople had seen a hostile fleet

threatening their city. They worked night and day to repair the

fortifications, to mount cannon, and to man the walls with an

efficient force. In five days nine hundred cannon were placed upon the

walls, and the English fleet had to retire. The Sultan was forced to

declare war against Great Britain.

Within a few weeks he was deposed by another insurrection of the

Janissaries, encouraged by the Sheik-ul-Islam. Again they assembled in

the Atmeidan, again they overturned their kettles, their picturesque

method of declaring that they would no longer eat the food of the

Sultan,--attacked the Seraglio, murdered all the ministers, and

deposed the Sultan. The ministers had gladly died that they might save

their master. It was not sufficient. Can a Padishah, who by his

conduct and his laws attacks the principles of the Koran, be allowed

to reign? Impossible. And Selim retired to the Kafess.

Mustafa IV. was a mere name under which the rule of the successful

revolutionaries was legitimated. Assassination and execution

proceeded. The Grand Vizier, in command of the army in Bulgaria, was

beheaded. He was the most conspicuous of a hundred victims.

The Pasha of Rustchuk, Mustafa Baraicktar, led 40,000 men to

Constantinople, to restore Selim. He had with him the standard of the

Prophet, which had accompanied the late Grand Vizier to the field.

Encamped outside the walls, he allowed Mustafa still to hold the

palace: a few murders and a few depositions were all that marked the

suspense. On July 28, 1808, Mustafa Baraicktar entered the city,

declared the Sultan deposed, and advanced to the Seraglio to restore

Selim III. While the troops were kept back at the gates, the Sultan

determined to secure himself. Selim, after a desperate struggle, was

murdered in the Kafess. "Take Sultan Selim to the Pasha of Rustchuk,

since he demands him," said Mustafa, and the body wrapped in a carpet

was thrown out. Mahmûd, the last surviving prince of the house of

Osman, but narrowly escaped: the murderers sought him everywhere, but

he was concealed under a heap of rugs. The avengers of blood burst in;

he was rescued: Mustafa IV. was thrust into the Kafess, and Mahmûd II.

at the age of twenty-three ascended the throne.

The reign of Mahmûd (1808-1839) witnessed the first real introduction

of Turkey into the atmosphere of the West. He had been trained by the

deposed Selim, to hate the Janissaries, to play the part, strange

indeed, of a reforming Sultan. Baraicktar was at his side.

It seemed at first that only a new and more blood-thirsty tyrant had

begun to reign. On the day of his accession, thirty-three heads were

exposed on the outer gate of the Seraglio, the Bâb-i-Humayoun: many of

the leaders of the Janissaries were strangled and thrown into the

Bosporus: even the women who had shown joy at Selim's murder were sewn

up in sacks and drowned at Seraglio point. Within a few months the

government of the new Sultan and his Vizier was in danger of ending

like those that had preceded it. On November 14, 1808, a new revolt of

the Janissaries broke out. They surrounded the palace of the Porte and

set fire to it. Baraicktar the Vizier escaped, but only a few days

later to meet death by exploding a powder magazine rather than fall

into the hands of his enemies. For four days the streets were

abandoned to carnage, and to the horrors of blood were added those of

fire. M. de Jucherau, a Frenchman then at Pera, has left a vivid

description, which is supplemented by that of an English traveller.

"No one," says that eloquent author, "attempted to stay the

conflagration, which in a short time made terrible progress. Soon the

most populous quarter of Constantinople was covered with a sheet of

fire. The cries, the groans of women, and old men and children,

attracted no attention and excited no pity. In vain they raised their

suppliant hands, in vain they begged for beams or planks to save

themselves from their burning houses by their roofs: their

supplications were vain: they were seen with indifference to fall and

to disappear among the flames. The desire of destruction was the only

feeling that then prevailed! Sultan Mahmood beheld the awful spectacle

from one of the lofty towers of the Seraglio, but not 'like another

Nero,' as some have unjustly asserted--the flames were not of his

lighting, and he was anxious that they should cease. He ordered

Cadi-Pasha to stop his carriage, and to retire with his troops within

the walls of the Seraglio, and despatched a hatti-sheriff to the

Janissary-agha, commanding him, as he valued his head, to exert

himself to stay the conflagration. As Mahmood was Sultan, and from the

pledge he had in his hands, was likely to continue so, even when the

revolt should end, the Janissary-agha trembled at the imperial mandate

and obeyed; but the fire was too intense and active to be subdued or

arrested, even by throwing to the ground whole stacks of houses: it

vaulted over the chasms thus made, and only found 'sufficient

obstacles in the public squares and in the mosques, whose vast cupolas

and massy stone walls have frequently preserved Constantinople from

entire destruction.'"[42]

The fire raged from the Seraglio to the aqueduct of Valens, and a

man-of-war in the harbour directed its cannon on the barracks of the

Janissaries in the At Meidan. The troops of the barracks on the other

side of the Horn, at the Arsenal and at Top-haneh, threw in their lot

with the Janissaries. Mahmûd within the Seraglio took the precaution

which he had so long refrained from: he ordered the murder of his

brother Mustafa IV., and the body was thrown out to the Janissaries.

In a few hours Mahmûd outwardly submitted. The new troops were

disbanded; the barracks were destroyed; the military schools, the

mathematical institution, the printing press, every sign of the

dangerous introduction of Western ideas, entirely disappeared. Even

the ladies of the Seraglio ceased to learn French, and Mahmûd

abandoned the enervating amusements of the opera and the ballet. For

sixteen years a curtain fell, raised only to show an occasional

massacre. Constantinople returned to its condition as the most

orthodox of Moslem cities. It was at this time that the greatest of

all European ambassadors at Constantinople first made acquaintance

with the power in whose fortunes he was to become so powerful a

factor. Stratford Canning came to Stambûl in 1808, as secretary to a

special mission. These were his first impressions of Turkey.

"The state[43] of Turkey itself was anything but satisfactory in view

of those powers who did not wish the Porte to become the prey either

of Russia or of France. The throne of the empire was filled by a

young Sultan, who had recently succeeded to his brother Mustafa, whose

immediate predecessor, their cousin Selim, had fallen a sacrifice to

the mutinous spirit of the Janissaries. Mahmûd, the reigning

sovereign, was for some time the last of his race. Young, ignorant,

and inexperienced, he had everything to apprehend from the

circumstances in which he was placed. Both morally and materially his

empire was bordering on decrepitude. The old political system of

Turkey had worn itself out. The population was not yet prepared for a

new order of things. A depreciated currency, a disordered revenue, a

mutinous militia, dilapidated fortresses, a decreasing population, a

stagnant industry, and general misrule, were the monuments which time

had left of Ottoman domination in the second capital of the Roman

empire and throughout those extensive regions which had been the

successive seats of civilisation, ever varying, generally advancing,

from the earliest periods of social settlement and historical

tradition. A continual and often a sanguinary antagonism of creeds, of

races, of districts and authorities within the frontier, and frequent

wars of little glory and much loss with the neighbouring powers, had

formed of late the normal condition of the Porte's dominions."

Most European observers thought that the Ottoman power was doomed to

almost immediate extinction; and the next few years increased the

illusion. The Mussulman population was everywhere declining; a new

Greek power was rising; and Ali Pasha at Janina seemed likely to

establish a new Mussulman domination which should destroy the Turkish

rule. Within a few years Greece secured her independence by rebellion.

But Canning saw plainly enough that Turkey was still strong. As early

as 1809 he wrote thus:--

"Very false notions are entertained in England of the Turkish nation.

You know much better than I do the mighty resources and native wealth

which this enormous empire possesses. I am myself a daily witness of

the personal qualities of the inhabitants, qualities which if properly

directed are capable of sustaining them against a world of enemies.

But the government is radically bad, and its members, who are all

alive to its defects, have neither the wisdom nor the courage to

reform it. The few who have courage equal to the task know not how to

reconcile reformation with the prejudices of the people. And without

this nothing can be effected."[44]

From 1821 the tide turned. The defects of the Turkish government did

not avail against the valour of the Sultan's army, and the dimensions

of Europe. The tragedies of those days passed far from Constantinople.

Missolonghi, Navarino, Athens, Janina, Adrianople, are names that

bring each its memory; but within the city of the Cæsars and the

Sultans a different tale was told. It was the great era of reform,

when at last Mahmûd was able to use his strength, and re-establish the

power of the Padishah.

During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries the authority of the

Commander of the Faithful had sunk, decade by decade, till the murder

of a Sultan who showed an independent policy was as certain as the

sunrise. The Janissaries were the real masters of the city, and of the

Empire. The force which had been raised to carry out the absolute will

of the Sultan had now entirely superseded him. Anarchy was substituted

for the rule of an irresponsible despot. But Mahmûd had a character of

strength unknown in any Sultan for two centuries. He had matured his

plans, and in 1826 he was able to carry them into execution. But for

an utterly unforeseen disaster he would doubtless have been able to

secure his triumph earlier than he did. In 1823 the arsenal and cannon

foundry at Top-haneh were entirely destroyed by fire. A vast quantity

of military stores and ammunition was destroyed. Pera and Galata

suffered severely. It is said that fifty mosques and six thousand

houses were destroyed. Mahmûd attributed the fire to the Janissaries;

and he became the more determined to destroy them.

Already he had dealt with another enemy. In 1821 the plots of the

Hetairists, working for the liberation of Greece, became known. Mahmûd

immediately ordered all Greeks not engaged in trade to be deported

from Constantinople. Then he ordered the patriarch and Synod of

Constantinople to excommunicate the leaders who had engaged in the

massacre of Moslems. The act was issued; nor can the Church be

regarded as having done anything but what was demanded by Christian

charity.

Hardly was the excommunication issued before a number of rich Greeks

escaped from the city, evidently with the intention of joining the

revolutionary armies. On March 26 the city was filled with troops, and

arms were issued to the citizens. Several Hetairists were executed;

and when the news came of the murder of Moslems in Greece, Mahmûd, who

had already imprisoned seven Greek bishops, ordered the public

execution of a number of prominent Greeks, who were entirely innocent,

solely for the purpose of alarming their compatriots. But this was not

sufficient. On Easter Day, April 22, 1821, the Patriarch of

Constantinople, Gregorios, was summoned, at dawn, when he had finished

the offering of the Holy Eucharist in his Cathedral Church, into the

hall of the Synod at the Phanar, by the officers of the Sultan.

There, before the clergy and the heads of the chief Greek families, he

was declared deposed by the authority of the State, and the trembling

priests were required to elect a new Patriarch in his stead.

[Illustration: HOUSES IN THE PHANAR]

Within a few hours Gregorios was hung from the gate of the

patriarchate, with a document pinned to his breast, declaring him a

traitor in that he knew of the Hetairist conspiracy, and did not

reveal it. Of the charge there is no known proof; and the Greeks have

always regarded him as a martyr. If he knew the details of the

conspiracy at all it is more than probable that he knew them only in

confession; nor is it at all probable that he knew anything but that

the Greeks intended to strike for their freedom.

Three bishops were executed on the same day. It was not a day to be

forgotten. When the body of the martyred Gregorios was taken down it

was given to the Jews to be dragged through the streets and cast into

the sea. It was recovered by night and taken by ship to Odessa, where

it was interred with solemn ceremonial as the remains of a saint and

martyr.

This horrible deed was followed by the outbreak of anarchy in

Constantinople. The Janissaries called for a massacre of the

Christians in the city to avenge the Moslems who had been killed in

Greece. The Christian quarters were attacked, the Christian villages

on the Bosphorus were robbed, and the patriarchate was sacked. Greek

clergy and nobles were executed daily, and four bishops were among the

slain. No Christians were allowed to leave the city without a passport

or vengeance was exacted upon the family. The massacres that occurred

in Constantinople were tolerated if they were not organised by the

authorities; several subjects of Western nations were murdered. All

that was done by Christian Europe was to protest. The Russian

ambassador left Constantinople, having demanded that the massacres

should cease and the churches be rebuilt that had been destroyed.

Mahmûd replied that only traitors were ill-treated. But the massacres

ended, at least for a time.

While all danger of a Christian rising in Constantinople was thus

prevented, Mahmûd was maturing the plans which in 1825 made him at

last an absolute ruler, at least in his own city.

For seventeen years Mahmûd prepared for this great stroke. First by

gifts and offices he detached many of the supporters of the

Janissaries and the Ulemas from the party which supported them. Some

less important members of the body were arrested for infraction of the

laws and were publicly executed. Others were secretly made away with.

The Sultan was surrounding himself with an elaborate spy system and

with agents who were capable of dealing in detail with those whom he

wished to be put out of the way. Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, in his

"Memoirs," says: "I remember that in crossing the Golden Horn from

time to time I had observed loose mats floating here and there upon

the water, and that in answer to my enquiries I had been told in a

mysterious manner that they had served for covering the bodies thrown

after private executions into the harbour." All this was done slowly;

the power of the Janissaries was gradually undermined; "almost

unparalleled craft and cruelty," some observers called the process,

but to Mahmûd it seemed absolutely necessary.

In 1826 the Sultan perceived that the time limit had come. A meeting

of all the chief functionaries of the Empire and chief officers of the

Janissaries was held. They agreed to submit to the new military

discipline and organisation which the Sultan designed. All signed

their names. On June 12 the first exercises of the new order were

begun. On the 16th the inferior officers and the soldiers declared

that they would not submit. The revolt was proclaimed in the ancient

manner. The kettles were overturned, and the whole force was called to

arms. Mahmûd crossed from Bekistasch to the Seraglio; the standard of

the Prophet was displayed; the city was filled with the troops upon

whom the Sultan could rely; the Moslem population rallied round the

green flag. The people assembled in the Atmeidan (the Hippodrome);

Mahmûd went to the mosque of Ahmed. The Janissaries were summoned to

submit to the new order. They in return demanded the destruction of

the "subverters of the ancient usages of the Empire." Then their fate

was sealed. They had advanced to the mosque of Bayezid; they were

rapidly driven back and hemmed in in their quarters in the Etmeidan.

Then from every side artillery was directed upon them. From his house

in Pera Stratford Canning, at dinner, saw "two slender columns of

smoke rising above the opposite horizon." What did they mean? The

Sultan, he was answered, had fired the barracks of the Janissaries.

The rest of the tragedy may best be told in Canning's own words:[45]

"The Sultan was determined to make the most of his victory. From the

time of his cousin Selim's death he had lived in dread of the

Janissaries. A strong impression must have been made upon his mind by

the personal danger which he had encountered. It was said that he had

escaped with his life by getting into an oven when the search for him

was hottest. His duty as sovereign gave strength as well as dignity to

his private resentment. That celebrated militia, which in earlier

times had extended the bounds of the empire, and given the title of

conqueror to so many of the Sultans, which had opened the walls of

Constantinople itself to their triumphant leader, the second Mohammed,

were now to be swept away with an unsparing hand and to make room for

a new order of things, for a disciplined army and a charter of reform.

From their high claims to honour and confidence they had sadly

declined. They had become the masters of the government, the butchers

of their sovereigns, and a source of terror to all but the enemies of

their country. Whatever compassion might be felt for individual

sufferers, including as they did the innocent with the guilty, it

could hardly be said that their punishment as a body was untimely or

undeserved.

The complaints of those who were doomed to destruction found no echo

in the bosoms of their conquerors. They were mostly citizens having

their wives, their children, or their parents, to witness the calamity

which they had brought in thunder on their necks. Many had fallen

under the Sultan's artillery; many were fugitives and outlaws. The

mere name of Janissary, compromised or not by an overt act, operated

like a sentence of death. A special commission sat for the trial, or

rather for the condemnation of crowds. Every victim passed at once

from the tribunal into the hands of the executioner. The bowstring and

the scimitar were constantly in play. People could not stir from their

houses without the risk of falling in with some terrible sight. The

Sea of Marmora was mottled with dead bodies. Nor was the tragedy

confined to Constantinople and its neighbourhood. Messengers were sent

in haste to every provincial city where any considerable number of

Janissaries existed, and the slightest tendency to insurrection was so

promptly and effectually repressed, that no disquieting reports were

conveyed to us from any quarter of the Empire. Not a day passed

without my receiving a requisition from the Porte, calling upon me to

send thither immediately the officer and soldiers comprising my

official guard. I had no reason to suppose that any of them had been

concerned in the revolt, and I was pretty sure that they could not

repair to the Porte without imminent danger of being sacrificed. I

ventured, therefore, to detain them day after day, first on one

pretext, then on another, until, at the end of a week, the fever at

headquarters had so far subsided as to open a door for reflection and

mercy. Relying on this abatement of wrath, I complied, and the

interpreter whom I directed to accompany them, gave every assurance on

their behalf which I was entitled to offer. The men were banished from

the capital, but their lives were spared, and many years later I was

much pleased by a visit from their officer, who displayed his

gratitude by coming from a distance on foot to regale me with a bunch

of dried grapes and a pitcher of choice water. Let me add that this

instance of good feeling on the part of a Turk towards a Christian is

only one of many which have come to my knowledge."

On June 17, 1826, the Janissaries ceased to exist. The Sheik-ul-Islam

formally proclaimed the extinction of the corps. A solemn divan was

held within the Seraglio, and the victory of Mahmûd was ratified by

the council. Then Canning writing on the 20th records the end of the

revolution which re-established the authority of the Sultan in a

position as absolute and despotic as it had been in the days of

Mohammed II.

"The Sultan's ministers are still encamped in the outer court of the

Seraglio, and I grieve to add that frequent executions continue to

take place under their very eyes. This afternoon, when the person, to

whom I have already alluded, was standing near the Reis Efendi's tent,

his attention was suddenly caught by the sound of drums and fifes, and

on turning round he saw, to his utter astonishment, a body of Turks in

various dresses, but armed with muskets and bayonets, arranged in

European order, and going through the new form of exercise. He

supposes the number to have been about two thousand, but never before

having seen troops in line he may have been deceived in this

particular. He says that the men acted by word of command, both in

marching and in handling their arms. The Sultan, who was at first

stationed at the window within sight, descended after a time, and

passed the men in review. His Highness was dressed in Egyptian

fashion, armed with pistols and sabre, and on his head in place of the

Imperial turban was a sort of Egyptian bonnet.

"Rank, poverty, age, and numbers are alike impotent to shelter those

who are known as culprits or marked as victims. It is confidently

asserted that a register has been kept of all persons who, since the

accession of the Sultan, have in any way shown a disposition to favour

the designs of the Janissaries, and that all such individuals are

diligently sought out and cut off as soon as discovered. Respectable

persons are seized in the street and hurried before the Seraskier or

Grand Vizier for immediate judgment. There are instances of elderly

men having pleaded a total ignorance of the late conspiracy, and being

reminded of some petty incident which happened twenty years ago, in

proof of their deserving condign punishment as abettors of the

Janissaries. Whole companies of labouring men are seized and either

executed or forcibly obliged to quit Constantinople.

"The entrance to the Seraglio, the shore under the Sultan's windows,

and the sea itself, are crowded with dead bodies--many of them torn

and in part devoured by the dogs."[46]

Théophile Gautier adds even more gruesome details. To the destruction

of the Janissaries was added that of the Becktash derviches. Then the

new army was formed, organized, drilled. For the rest of his reign,

Mahmûd's chief thought was to perfect the reforms which he had

inaugurated in blood. When in 1834 he struck coins bearing his own

portrait, so grave a breach of the rules of the Koran caused another

insurrection. It was suppressed with fearful severity, and added four

thousand victims to the tale. But the coinage had to be called in.

Fanatics, whom the people regarded as saints, coveted martyrdom by

seizing the Sultan's bridle as he rode over the new bridge which he

had made from Galata to Stambûl, calling him "Giaour Padishah" and

paying Heaven's vengeance on his head. Nothing moved Mahmûd. Without,

misfortunes befell his power on every side. He held steadfastly on,

and when he died in 1839, he left behind him a strong government, and

an appearance--it may have been little more--of approximation to the

ways of Western Europe. The aim of Mahmûd, indeed, was not unlike that

of Peter the Great: he wished to make his State an integral part of

the European system. Hitherto, admitted though she was into European

politics, coveted as ally and dreaded as a foe, Turkey had occupied no

place among the permanent factors of European politics. Mahmûd thought

to make Turkey, really and essentially, a European power. It was

impossible.

The external events of the reign, the revolt of Mohammed Ali, the

treaty of Adrianople, the creation of Greece as an independent State,

important as they were in the history of the Ottoman power, hardly

affected Constantinople.

In 1832, Stratford Canning returned on a special mission to

Constantinople. He found the outer change extraordinary. Mahmûd

received him as an European sovereign would receive. He began to think

a real reform of Turkey possible. He secured the concession that he

sought on behalf of Greece: "The new Hellas was lifted up to that

great mountain ridge whence the eye of the traveller may range

unchecked over the pastures of Thessaly." Canning, after renewed

experience of the delays and intrigues of the Turkish ministers, bade

farewell to the Sultan for the last time. His character of Mahmûd is

too important to be omitted from our view. It may well conclude what

we have to say of the most important reign in recent Turkish history.

"Resolution and energy were the foremost qualities of his mind. His

natural abilities would hardly have distinguished him in private life.

In personal courage, if not deficient, he was by no means superior.

His morality, measured by the rules of the Koran, was anything but

exemplary. He had no scruple of taking life at pleasure from motives

of policy or interest. He was not inattentive to changes of

circumstance, or insensible to the requirements of time. There was

even from early days a vein of liberality in his views, but either

from want of foresight, or owing to a certain rigidity of mind, he

missed at critical times the precious opportunity and incurred thereby

an aggravated loss. His reign of more than thirty years was marked by

disastrous wars and compulsory cessions. Greece, Egypt, and Algiers

escaped successively from his rule. He had to lament the destruction

of his fleet at Navarino. On the other hand, he gathered up the reins

of sovereign power, which had fallen from the hands of his immediate

predecessors; he repressed rebellion in more than one of the

provinces, and his just resentment crushed the mutinous Janissaries

once and for ever. Checked no longer by them, he introduced a system

of reforms which has tended greatly to renovate the Ottoman Empire,

and to bring it into friendly communion with the Powers of

Christendom. To him, moreover, is due the formation of a regular and

disciplined army in place of a factious fanatical militia, more

dangerous to the country than to its foes. Unfortunately his habits of

self-indulgence kept pace with the revival of his authority, and the

premature close of his life superseded for a while the progress of

improvement. Mahmûd when young had rather an imposing countenance; his

dark beard set off the paleness of his face, but time added to its

expression. His stature was slightly below the average standard, his

countenance was healthy, he wrote well, he rode well, and acquired a

reputation for skill in archery. It may be said with truth that

whatever merit he possessed was his own, and that much of what was

wrong in his character and conduct resulted from circumstances beyond

his control. Peace to his memory!"[47]

Abdul-Mejid (1839-1861), the son of Mahmûd II., had been brought up in

the harem. He was only sixteen at his accession, and was utterly

ignorant of politics. But he had some wise ministers, and the defeats

of the earlier part of his reign were wisely utilised. In 1841 came

the practical separation of Egypt, the family of Mohammed Ali being

established there as perpetual pashas or deputies of the Sultan,

paying tribute, but otherwise free and guaranteed in their position by

the Powers.

Unquestionably the great figure in Constantinople during the reign of

Abdul Mejid was Stratford Canning, who came in 1842 as British

ambassador. He remained till 1852. He returned in 1853, and he left

finally in 1858. During these years he devoted himself to the

preservation of Turkey as a Power, but only with the hope, and on the

condition, that she should become civilized. It may have been a

hopeless task, but in the endeavour it is astounding to observe the

high measure of success which came to the noble Englishman who gave

the best years of his life to it. Kinglake has immortalised him as

"the great Elchi." No greater ambassador ever lived; and his greatness

lay in the fact that he passed entirely beyond the range of ordinary

diplomatic functions, and made himself as really a part of the Empire

to which he was accredited as he was essentially the representative of

the British nation. Needless to tell again the tale that has been so

well told, of his diplomatic triumphs, of his supreme honesty and

loyalty, of his ceaseless energy, of his magnificent services to

humanity and religion.

Throughout the whole of his life in Turkey he kept his one aim

steadily before his eyes, and never deviated from it. If Turkey could

be saved he would save her; but it could only be done by carrying out

what had been the real intention of Mahmûd the reformer, and making an

Oriental despotism resemble an European government with constitutional

guarantees for personal and religious freedom. That in the long-run he

utterly failed is now quite plain. What he wrote more than fifty years

ago, in spite of superficial outward changes is really true to-day.

"There is no such thing as system in Turkey. Every man according to

his means and opportunities gets what he can, commands when he dares,

and submits when he must." None the less Canning won real victories.

He procured a declaration that the punishment of death should no

longer be inflicted on those who gave up Islam for Christianity. "It

was the first dagger," he wrote himself, "thrust into the side of the

false prophet and his creed." And indeed so long as Lord Stratford de

Redcliffe remained at Constantinople justice, toleration, good

government made progress such as could hardly have been conceived

before.

It is needless here to inquire how far the success of Turkey in the

Crimean War led to the casting aside of all reforms, or whether the

war was justified or how it was caused. Russia's declaration of her

protectorate over the Orthodox Church; the belief of England and

France that they were bound to protect Turkey against wanton

aggression; the earnest desire of "the great Elchi" to avoid war:

these things may be read in the Blue Books[48] and in Kinglake's great

History. Constantinople saw the encampment of British troops at

Gallipoli and at Skutari; and then came the sad days of the hospitals

on the Asiatic shore and the English cemetery where sleep so many

English dead. The Hatti-Humayun of February 21, 1856, seemed to embody

all that the best friends of Turkey could have wished, in its

abolition of all distinctions telling unfavourably against the

exercise of any religion, its fine declarations of freedom and

equality among all subjects of the Porte. But who could enforce it?

The story is pitiful, and it shall not here be told. Rather let it be

remembered when we sail into the harbour of Constantinople that the

Crimean Memorial Church which stands boldly on the heights of Pera was

the sign of the noble work for religion and freedom that had been done

by the great Englishman whose last public act in the city it was to

lay the foundation-stone, and whose noble life is simply commemorated

on a tablet within its walls.

It was in 1858 that this great embassy ended. Three years later Abdul

Mejid died; and his brother Abdul Aziz was girt with the sword in the

mosque of Eyûb. Under his rule outward reforms progressed gaily, but

the reckless extravagance of the Sultan brought the country to

financial ruin. Reforms, insurrections, the creation of Roumania, the

insurrection of Crete, how did these affect Constantinople? Not at

all. Only daily the financial disorder became more apparent. On May

10, 1876, the city witnessed a scene which might have seemed proof

that Turkey was regenerated. The Sultan's son was stopped in the

streets by crowds who demanded the dismissal of the Grand Vizier and

the Sheik-ul-Islam. From the gorgeous new palace which he had built on

the Bosporus came the reply of Abdul Aziz--"His Majesty is deeply

touched with the proof of confidence you place in him. It is his

pleasure in no way to resist the will of his faithful people." But it

was merely one of those delusive pictures which remind one of the

tricks of the genii in the Arabian Nights. There was no real change;

and on May 29, again resort was had as in the old days to the

Sheik-ul-Islam. A reformer, who had been but a few days elevated to

the post, he declared the lawfulness of deposing a Sultan whose

conduct was insensate, who had no political judgment, who spent on

himself sums which the Empire could not afford. At dawn on May 30 the

palace of Dolma Bagtché was surrounded by troops, the Sultan was

declared a prisoner, and then was hurried across to the old Seraglio.

A few days later he returned to the gorgeous palace of Tcheragan. On

June 4, he was found dead. It was certified that he had opened his

veins with a pair of scissors. Few Sultans have long survived

deposition.

Murad V. the eldest son of Abdul Mejid was received at the Seraskierat

with enthusiasm. Announcements were made which declared him a

reformer. He was Sultan for only three months. Within the first few

days a number of the ministers were murdered, as they sat in Council,

by the brother of the wife of Abdul Aziz. A few weeks later it was

declared that the Sultan was incapable of Government. He was deposed

with as much ease as his predecessor, no one knows to-day whether he

is alive or not, and Abdul Hamed II., his brother, reigned in his

stead. Of his reign little need be said. It has seen the Bulgarian

atrocities, the defeat of Turkey by Russia, the encampment of the

Russian troops at San Stefano, the proclamation of a Constitution, a

parliament with two houses opened by the Sultan himself. It has seen

also the suppression of that Constitution; it has seen the liberty of

Bulgaria, Bosnia, Herzegovina, Cyprus and Crete.

And Constantinople, what may be told here in brief is what cannot be

forgotten. The Sultan no longer lives, like his predecessors, within

earshot of his people. Yildiz-Kiosk high on the hills above the

Bosphorus secludes him from the world. No longer does the Commander of

the Faithful visit the mosques of Stambûl or ride through the streets

with a gorgeous military display. The massacres for which precedent

was set centuries ago have again given the city a ghastly fame. In

October 1895 crowds of Softas--religious students--assembled in the

Atmeidan and a massacre of Armenians began. The riots lasted for three

days. The authorities declared that the cause was the revolutionary

plots of the Armenians themselves, that they did their utmost to

preserve order, and that they would punish all who were responsible.

Ten months passed. Constantinople in the spring of 1896 was outwardly

at peace, but arrests were constantly being made, and there was a

general feeling of insecurity. On August 28, 1896, a band of Armenians

seized the Ottoman Bank at Galata, killing the guard and imprisoning

the officials. After some hours they were allowed to depart under a

safe conduct. But for nearly two days the city was given up to

massacre. Bands of Moslems rose simultaneously at different parts

before the police or the military appeared, led or accompanied by

Softas, by soldiers, by police officers. When the troops appeared they

looked on. The scenes in the streets beggar description. Christians

were butchered wherever they appeared, were chased into houses and

over roofs, were shot in their houses by men who took the tiles from

the roofs across the street, broke the windows, and then fired into

the rooms where Armenians had crowded for refuge. The churches were

filled with people who sought sanctuary, who had lost everything they

possessed and dared not leave the security of the sacred walls. The

churches of Pera and Galata, the buildings of the Patriarchate in the

Psamatia quarter seemed the only safe places. Of the numbers killed no

count can be given; two thousand certainly perished, but five thousand

has been declared to have been the total of the victims. For days the

dead-cart passed through the streets and the murdered Christians were

carried off with indescribable brutality to be cast into huge pits or

into the sea. It is impossible as yet to tell the full story. It seems

still like a horrible dream, a reminiscence of the worst terrors of

the Middle Age.

[Illustration: STREET IN GALATA]

The two acts of tragedy by which it has been attempted to destroy a

large, and that perhaps the richest and most progressive, part of the

population of Constantinople, emphasise an important historical

fact. Not only by the importations of Mohammed II., but gradually

during the four centuries and a half that have elapsed since the

Conquest, the population of Constantinople has changed its character.

Pera and Galata are the home of a mixed race, of whom every writer

says hard words, and of many nationalities still striving to preserve

their separate life. Greeks, Italians, Germans, French, English,

immigrants from the Balkan lands, are the most prominent, after the

Jews and the wealthy Armenians. The divisions that are to be seen in

the Orthodox Church, perpetuated by politicians for their own

purposes, are the reflection of the national and political divisions

that we pass through on our way to Constantinople and find there in

full force. Every league nearer to the city walls, as the railway

drags its tedious length, is a step nearer to barbarism; and Pera is

indeed but a poor outpost of civilisation. It has over it a veneer of

the West. As you walk through the streets you might think yourself in

an inferior Italian city; when you descend to Galata, down steep

streets, half stairways, you pass through the gate of the Middle Ages

into a town like any cosmopolitan seaport, crowded with sailors and

travellers of all nations.

The Galata bridge, the most wonderful pathway in Europe, with its

thousands of passengers in every strange garb, its Parisian carriages,

its Arab steeds bearing alert officers, its beggars, mollahs, white

turbaned and white coated toll-takers, its ceaseless stream of life

all day long, brings you to the harbour, the historic anchorage of

great ships for fifteen hundred years or more. "Eothen" has said once

for all what comes to mind as we gaze at that magnificent sight, life,

ships, walls, domes, minarets.

"Even if we don't take a part in the chaunt about 'Mosques and

Minarets,' we can still yield praises to Stamboul. We can chaunt

about the harbour; we can say and sing that nowhere else does the sea

come so home to a city; there are no pebble shores--no sand bars--no

slimy river beds--no black canals--no locks nor docks to divide the

very heart of the place from the deep waters; if being in the noisiest

part of Stamboul, you would stroll to the quiet side of the way amidst

those cypresses opposite, you will cross the fathomless Bosphorus; if

you would go from your hotel to the Bazaars, you must pass by the

bright blue pathway of the Golden Horn, that can carry a thousand sail

of the line. You are accustomed to the gondolas that glide among the

palaces of St Mark, but here at Stamboul it is a hundred-and-twenty-gun

ship that meets you in the street. Venice strains out from the

steadfast land, and in old times would send forth the chief of the

state to woo and wed the reluctant sea; but the stormy bride of the

Doge is the bowing slave of the Sultan--she comes to his feet with the

treasures of the world--she bears him from palace to palace--by some

unfailing witchcraft, she entices the breezes to follow her, and fan

the pale cheek of her lord--she lifts his armed navies to the very

gates of his garden--she watches the walls of his serail--she stifles

the intrigues of his Ministers--she quiets the scandals of his

Court--she extinguishes his rivals, and hushes his naughty wives all

one by one, so vast are the wonders of the deep!"[49]

But you cross the bridge, or you take a caique, and land under the old

walls; you pass through some gateway, scarcely recognisable; and in a

moment you are in a new life. It is the East. The hundreds of solemn

figures climbing the hill to the daily afternoon prayers at the mosque

of Mohammed the Conqueror; the busy market that goes on outside the

walls, the stalls displaying everything that man needs to buy, the

carpets, the great earthenware vessels, marked in white wax with

delicate arabesques, the fresh fruits, the strange liquors, the

stranger cates. A few yards off and you are among the streets that

belong to particular trades, the workers in brass, the cobblers, the

blacksmiths, the horse-dealers, the sellers of every conceivable

object under the sun, all in their windowless shops, laughing,

talking, selling, with that stately mien which makes a ceremonial of

the simplest act. There is no vulgar European haste here, no

chattering impatience to serve or to bargain; the ages as they have

passed over the place seem to have left their solemn impress on the

people. Let the story-teller come and amuse them; for themselves they

will not hurry or fret or speed. All is dignified, stately,

restrained. This is a Turkish quarter, but the Turks are rarely indeed

of pure blood. Almost every Asiatic race, and many European

nationalities, have gone to make the Turks of Stambûl--pilgrims from

the far East, Christian slaves, converts to Islam from every quarter

of the globe. Negroes are constantly to be met with, eunuchs, slaves,

and free trading folk. Pass further on and you are among the Jews, who

remain as large a proportion of the population as in the fifteenth

century, when some forty thousand of them were to be found in Stambûl.

It was they who first opened regular shops for the sale of

manufactured goods, and the greatest shops in the Bazaar to-day are

the property of Jews. In the great Bazaar with its intricate streets

and quarters, a great desolation reigns. The Jews and the Europeans

have invaded its recesses, and the pictures that the old books draw of

the haggling and the humour and the riches, have no meaning to-day. In

the enclosure of the Ahmediyeh you may see characteristic Eastern

sights. There a man sits being shaved. There are stalls heaped with

fruit. There are sellers pressing rich stuffs and linen on Turkish

ladies as they pass. And indeed it is not all stateliness even among

the Turks. Desert the streets of the leather-sellers and the

brass-workers, come down to the markets by the mosques, and there is

enough vigorous and vivacious life. In the harbour among the shipping,

where the rowers of caiques clamour for employment, in the Greek

quarter, or in the Psamatia among the poorer Armenians, there is

plenty of stir and movement. For a succession of pictures, there is no

city like Constantinople. Pilgrims from the far East, Mongolians,

Persians, men of Bokhara and Khiva, negroes from the heart of Africa,

armed many of them to the teeth, most with the strange wistful half

frightened look of strangers and foreigners in a civilisation of which

they have not dreamed; the groups at the fountains, the staid ancients

smoking solemnly at the doors, the closed windows with the wooden

lattices, through which sometimes comes a sound of soft music, the

tramp of armed men, the clatter of cavalry as they trot up the street,

the endless processions of donkeys and draught horses, and sometimes

camels,--these sights and sounds are, in the sunlight by the old

walls, in the narrow streets, or by the great domed mosques, never to

be forgotten or to be rivalled in Europe to-day.

Constantinople remains, with all its changes, a city of the dark ages.

At any moment the curtain may be lifted on a scene of tragic horror,

and meanwhile there is the grotesque mimicry of Western civilisation,

the parade of meaningless forms, justice, government, finance, which

in a moment may be destroyed, which never have, it is hardly an

exaggeration to say, any real meaning. How does the city fare? Even

now, interviews with officials, walks through the streets of Stambûl,

the sights of each day, remind one irresistibly of "a chapter in

Gibbon or some tale of wonder in the Arabian Nights." Soberly and

solemnly the Turks go about their business. Before the horrors of the

last decade an observer who knew well the people and the history wrote

these words.

"I have been present in the city during the deposition of two Sultans.

The most striking characteristic in the circumstances attending these

depositions was the utter indifference of the great body of the

native, and especially of the Moslem, population to the change which

was being made. There was a small but active party which took action,

but beyond this there was comparatively very little excitement; no

resistance, no rioting, no expression of dissatisfaction. When

newspaper correspondents and foreigners generally were aware that a

revolution was in preparation, it is impossible to believe that

thousands of Turks and rayahs were in ignorance of the fact. The

general feeling among the Sultan's subjects was one of indifference.

If the conspirators failed it would go hardly with them. If they

succeeded it would go hardly with the Sultan. That business only

regarded the parties concerned. Beyond a vague belief that any change

could hardly be followed by a worse condition of things than had

existed, there was no public sentiment on the matter."[50]

The words would be as true to-day. Save only at moments of sudden and

fanatic excitement, organised there can be no doubt at least under the

impression that there is a religious duty, and a command which may not

be disobeyed, the calm of the city is unbroken. We seem to be standing

with Candide when he heard the news that "two viziers of the bench and

the mufti had just been strangled at Constantinople, and several of

their friends impaled," and when he heard the instructive comments of

the old Turk who never knew the name of any vizier or mufti. "I

presume," said that sage, "that in general such as are concerned in

public affairs come to a miserable end, and that they deserve it; but

I never enquire what is doing at Constantinople. I am content with

sending thither the produce of my garden, which I cultivate with my

own hands." To-day it would seem that the people of Constantinople are

of the same mind with this philosopher. "Our country is rich, capable

of prosperity, and of supporting in comfort twenty times its present

population; but alas a gang of robbers has seized it," are the

published words of a Turkish prince. Vice and luxury and despotism

triumph. _Eh bien! je sais qu'il faut cultiver notre jardin._

This at any rate may be said. It is idle to prophecy the future of the

Ottoman power in Europe. Has the last Greek war really strengthened

it? Does the approach of Russia foreshadow an occupation of

Constantinople and the longed for return of S. Sophia to the worship

of the Orthodox Church? Of all people the English are the least fitted

to foresee the future. Nothing can be more ludicrous than the letters

of Tom Hughes, an observer acute enough, written from Constantinople

in 1862, in which he says that Islam is all but dead, and that what

the Turks want is the English public-school system. The Turk hears

such things with a smile; _il faut cultiver notre jardin_.

FOOTNOTES:

[34] Sandys' _Travels_, pp. 48, 49, ed. 1627.

[35] The form "Sultana" is only a Western one. The Turks use the word

Sultan for both sexes, placing it after the name in the case of a

female.

[36] Quoted by Ranke, _Ottoman and Spanish monarchies_ [Eng. trans.],

p. 12.

[37] Ranke, quoting Barbaro, the Venetian ambassador.

[38] Finlay, vol. v. p. 92. See Von Hammer, viii. 134, 317.

[39] Ranke, p. 25.

[40] Pp. 31-32.

[41] _Travels_, vol. ii., pp. 127-128.

[42] _Constantinople in 1828_, by C. MacFarlane, p. 306.

[43] _Life of Lord Stratford de Redcliffe_, by Stanley Lane Poole, 1

volume edition, p. 18.

[44] "Life of Lord Stratford de Redcliffe," by Stanley Lane Poole, 1

volume edition, p. 19.

[45] Life, pp. 137-138.

[46] Life, p. 139.

[47] Life, pp. 164-165.

[48] See the correspondence respecting the rights and privileges of

the Latin and Greek Churches in Turkey, presented to Parliament 1854.

[49] _Eothen_, pp. 30, 31.

[50] Pears, _Conquest of Constantinople_.

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