CHAPTER II

_Constantinople under the Turks_

Constantinople soon became Stambûl in the mouth of the Turks, a

corruption it may be of the εἰς τὴν πόλιν which they had often heard

in the mouth of the Greeks. The crescent of Byzantium became the

symbol of the Ottoman power. A new city began to be raised on the

ruins of the old.

[Illustration: IN THE CEMETERY AT SCUTARI]

Some privileges were left to the Christians. Galata and Pera were from

the first confirmed in their independence and freedom of trade; yet

step by step the Turkish sway was established over them, and though

the foreign liberties still exist, and are reinforced by the

privileges, from time to time increased, of the ambassadors and their

households and the colonies they protect, the Sultan's rule is

complete on both sides of the Golden Horn. After three days of

plunder, Mohammed set himself to make order. He declared that he would

protect the Greek Church. A new patriarch, George Scholarios or

Gennadios, was installed: his ecclesiastical jurisdiction was

recognized. He was allowed to hallow new churches, and one little

humble oratory remained undefiled by the infidel. On the hill above

the Phanar, hidden away in a side street, by a high wall, stands the

little white-washed sanctuary round which on the fatal day the fight

had surged. The Turks still call it Kan Klissé, the church of blood.

The Greeks know it as S. Mary Mouchliotissa (the Mongolian), in

memory, not only of the B. V. M., but of Mary the daughter of Manuel

Palæologus, who had married the Khan of the Mongols, and after his

death returned to Constantinople and built or restored the little

church. Mohammed gave it to the architect Christodoulos, and by

special firman, preserved it to the Christians.

The patriarchal throne was moved first to the Church of the Apostles,

soon destroyed to make the mosque of the conqueror; thence to the

Pammakaristos (Fetîyeh Djami); thence to the Church of the Wallachian

palace in the Phanar, now the monastery of the Jerusalem patriarchate.

At last, in 1601, it was moved to the ancient Petrion, where it

remains. The palace of the patriarch is close by: the walls still show

remains of the ancient fortifications, and of the stones of the

monastery where the Empress Theodora lived so long in retirement. The

church has a beautiful iconostasis of dark olive wood, and a

patriarchal throne and pulpit, all probably of the seventeenth

century, but which the faithful delight to ascribe to much earlier

days. The throne is called the throne of S. John Chrysostom, the

pulpit his pulpit; but their only claim to the title is that they

belong to his successors, in an unbroken line. In this sheltered spot,

and in the district of Phanar, stretching between the inner bridge

over the Golden Horn and the ultra-Moslem suburb of Eyûb, remain the

last links of Constantinople with the ancient Christian city. Round

the patriarchal church, with the Christian schools and colleges, in

the houses that are still half fortresses, cluster ancient memories

that survive to-day. Gautier wrote fancifully, "Hither ancient

Byzantium has fled. Here in obscurity dwell the descendants of the

Comneni, the Dukai, the Palaiologoi, princes with no lands, but whose

ancestors wore the purple and in whose veins flows imperial blood."

Still in these dark houses, dusty and begrimed without, there survives

some of the ancient Greek society, that has passed through so many

changes, and hopes at least to witness one more.

The conquest of Constantinople had less effect than might have been

expected upon the position of the Greek Church. Gennadios whom

Mohammed made Patriarch, had been the bitter opponent of the reunion

of the churches, and he had even declared that the destruction of the

Empire would be the certain result of the concessions to the Latins.

Mohammed desired that the Church should retain its power. If he

protected it there might grow up some general feeling of acceptance of

the Moslem rule. Thus synods were still allowed to meet, the patriarch

was allowed to hold courts Christian, and to enforce his sentences

with excommunication. But none the less the Church had no means of

resisting the absolute power of the Sultan. At any moment patriarch,

bishop or priest could be deposed, banished, executed, by his sole

will. The Church has never ceased to live in a position of danger, at

the mercy of an alien lord, and amid an infidel people; and at any

moment she is liable to an active persecution, and her members to

martyrdom.

The earlier patriarchs after the conquest seem to have been disturbed

in their office by scandals, intrigues, difficulties of every kind.

Before long the Sultan demanded payment on each new election, and it

is represented that it was only by bribes that the election proceeded

at all. Simony appears to have been rife. It was but slowly and under

persecution that the Church was purged from these sins and became

again fully worthy of the reverence of the whole Greek people. The

encouragement of learning in the present century, the high character

of the patriarchs, the times of danger through which they have passed,

have left the Church the true centre of the national life which still

remains. Nor has the widespread influence of the patriarchate failed

to preserve some relics of the power of the ancient Empire. During the

seventeenth century, while the Morea was in the hands of the

Venetians, the Patriarch of Constantinople still nominated the

bishops, revenues still reached him from the monasteries; and his

excommunications were still valid in the lands which did not own the

Sultan as lord. The Patriarch still claims ecclesiastical jurisdiction

over the Balkan lands, though the Porte has appointed a Bulgarian

exarch, in accord with the wishes of the government, to act as head of

the Orthodox in that principality, and Roumania has also freed

herself; Serbia still struggles to be free: but it can hardly be

doubted that should the lands ever be reunited, they would all gladly

return to the obedience of the Patriarchate.

But this by anticipation: Mohammed set himself to found a new city.

Land was freely granted to rich families from other cities: it is

said that five thousand families, Greeks and Turks, were soon induced

to settle in what had been the richest city in the world. Four

thousand Servians were planted outside the walls to recolonize the

villages that the war had destroyed. As the conquest spread Greeks and

Albanians were forcibly deported to the capital. The Christians of

Constantinople alone were freed from the tribute of their children.

Before he died Mohammed saw the city again populous and in prosperity.

He founded a new city on the ruins of the old: the new population,

half Christians, but predominantly Turks, gave new life; and the new

life was made to centre round the new buildings which Christian art

inspired the Moslems to build. Gradually the city became not only

Oriental, but Mohammedan. It is thus we see it to-day. Of the

buildings let us speak later. Now let us see the work that was done by

Mohammed the Conqueror and his successors.

The Turkish power depended upon the characteristic institution of the

Janissaries. From the time of Orchan it was the law of the Turks to

require from all the Christian subjects of their power a tribute of

their children. These were at once made Mussulmans, brought up very

strictly in their faith, skilfully taught, and trained to hardness. As

time showed their capacity, they were divided into two classes; those

who had no special physical strength were set to work in the offices

of State; the others underwent the strict discipline which produced the

finest military corps in Europe, the Janissaries. Unmarried, without

family ties, connected neither among themselves nor with the people,

these soldiers, it was said by their founder, Khalil-Djendereli, would

belong solely to their sovereign, from whom they would have their sole

reward. It was an original and daring thought, to make each conquest

the basis of future victories. "Let the Christians support the war;

let themselves furnish the soldiers by whose means we shall fight."

The first batch of Christian captives thus set apart in 1328 were

brought before a renowned dervish, Hadji Bektash. Thus he blessed

them. "Let them be called Yeni-Tscheri (new soldiers): they shall be

conquerors in every fight; let their countenance be ever white and

shining, their arm strong, their sword sharp, their arrow swift."

No troops ever more powerfully affected the imagination of friends and

foes. Among the Turks they were always the leaders, the forlorn hope.

Among Christians the terror of their name spread over Europe. In every

war they gained new laurels, and from the moment when they stormed the

walls of Constantinople they began to be, slowly but certainly, the

sole strength of the Ottoman power. At first the absolute servants of

the Sultan, before two centuries were over they became his masters.

Their numbers increased rapidly. Within a few years their numbers

reached twelve thousand, and in the seventeenth century they were more

than three times as numerous. The description of the English traveller

Sandys shows perhaps better than any other record what impression they

made upon Christians at the height of their power.

"The Janissaries," he says,[34] "are those that bear great sway in

Constantinople: in so much that the Sultans themselves have been

sometimes subject to their insolencies. They are divided into severall

companies under severall Captaines; but all commanded by their Aga: a

place of high trust, and the third in repute through the Empire:

howbeit, their too much love is to him an assured destruction. These

are the flower of the Turkish infantery, by whom such wonderfull

victories have been atchieved. They call the Emperour father (for none

other is there for them to depend on), to whose valour and faith in

the time of warre he committeth his person: they having their stations

about the royal pavillion. They serve with harquebushes, armed besides

with cymiters and hatchets. They weare on their heads a bonnet of

white felt, with a flap hanging downe behind to their shoulders;

adorned about the browes with a wreathe of metall, gilt, and set with

stones of small value; having a kind of sheathe or rocket of the same

erected before, wherein such are suffered to sticke plumes of feathers

as have behaved themselves extraordinarie bravely. They tucke up the

skirts of their coates when they fight, or march: and carry certaine

dayes provision of victuals about with them. Nor is it a cumber: it

being no more than a small portion of rice, and a little sugar and

hony. When the Emperor is not in the field, the most of them reside

with him in the Citie: ever at hand upon any occasion to secure his

person, and are as were the Pretorian cohorts with the Romanes. They

are in number about forty thousand: whereof the greater part (I meane

of those that attend on the Court) have their being in three large

Serraglios; where the juniors do reverence their seniors, and all obey

their severall commanders (as they their Aga) with much silence and

humility. Many of them that are married (a breach of their first

institution) have their private dwellings: and those that are busied

in forreine employments, are for the most part placed in such garrison

townes as do greatly concerne the safetie of the Empire. Some are

appointed to attend on Embassadors; others to guard such particular

Christians as will be at the charge, both about the City, and in

their travels, from incivilities and violences, to whom they are in

themselves most faithfull: wary and cruell, in preventing and

revenging their dangers and injuries; and so patient in bearing

abuses, that one of them of late being strucken by an Englishman

(whose humorous swaggering would permit him never to review his

countrey) as they travelled along through Morea, did not onely not

revenge it, nor abandon him to the pillage and outrages of others, in

so unknowne and savage a country; but conducted him unto Zant in

safety, saying, God forbid that the villany of another should make him

betray the charge that was committed to his trust. They are al of one

trade or other. The pay that they have from the Grand Signior is but

five aspers a day: yet their eldest sons as soone as borne are

inrolled, and received into pension; but his bounty extendeth no

further unto his progeny (the rest reputed as natural Turks), nor is a

Janizary capable of other preferments than the command of ten, of

twenty, or of an hundred. They have yeerly given them two gowns

apiece, the one of violet cloth, and the other of stanmell, which they

weare in the City: carrying in their hands a great tough reede, some

seven feet long, and tipped with silver; the weight whereof is not

seldome felt by such as displease them. Who are indeed so awefull,

that Justice dare not proceed publikely against them (they being only

to be judged by their Aga), but being privately attached, are as

privately throwne into the sea in the night time. But then are they

most tumultuous (whereto they do give the name of affection) upon the

dangerous sicknesses of their Emperours; and upon their deaths commit

many outrages. Which is the cause that the great Bassas as well as

they can, do conceale it from them, untill all things be provided for

the presentment of the next for them to salute. Whereupon (besides

the present larges) they have an Asper a day increase of pension: so

that the longer they live, and the more Emperours they outlive, the

greater is their allowance. But it is to be considered, that all these

beforenamed, are not onely of that tribute of children. For not a few

of them are captives taken in their child-hood; with divers Renegados,

that have most wickedly quitted their religion and countrey, to fight

against both: who are to the Christians the most terrible adversaries.

And withall they have of late infringed their ancient customes, by the

admitting of those into these orders, that are neither the sons nor

grandsons of Christians; a naturall Turke borne in Constantinople,

before never knowne, being now a Barsa of the Port."

To the English traveller's record may be added information of the

Venetian ambassador's _relazioni_, which speak of the severe military

training which the lads underwent, the strict asceticism in food,

drill, garb, and tell that at night they all lay in a long room,

lighted, and patrolled all night by a watchman, who walked up and down

that they might learn thus to sleep in the midst of alarms.

Children of every nation, Poles, Bohemians, Russians, Italians,

Germans, as well as tribute slaves from Greece and the Balkan lands,

they knew no home but that narrow court in the Seraglio, no master but

the Sultan, no hope but the hope of plunder and the paradise of Islam.

So great was the power of the training, the comradeship, the

fanaticism, that but one of all the Christians forcibly made Moslem

and brought up among the Janissaries is known to have taken the

opportunity to escape and return to Christendom. The single hero was

Scanderbeg, who alone arrested the triumphant progress of Mohammed II.

One of the most curious memorials of the old Turkish State is that

which is preserved to-day in the museum at the end of the At-meidan.

There a hundred and thirty-six figures, huge painted dolls, represent

the terrible troops in their habits as they lived. On the stairs are

figures in chain armour, in the hall above the representations of the

different ranks, and the officers named after the kitchen duties they

were supposed to perform. It was one great family, in idea, with the

Sultan as father. He gave the food, and their great kettles in which

it was cooked were also their drums, with spoons for drumsticks. A

strange grotesque sight are these bright figures in their long robes,

with here and there, for contrast, an example of the new uniform

introduced by Mohammed II. The museum is almost deserted; but there is

no more characteristic memorial of the great days of the Turks. Let

the visitor not imagine that he may sketch or take notes or look at

the book of drawings which he may find in the room. He will hear the

familiar Turkish word _Yasak!_ and the book will be snatched from his

hands.

But this by the way. When Mohammed II. took Constantinople and settled

the Janissaries in the outer court of the Seraglio, once the

Acropolis, they were only beginning to be the centre of power. Yet

even then they were the most characteristic institution of the

Osmanlis. While Constantinople was assuming the aspect which it was to

bear for centuries, of an entirely eastern town, with minarets

everywhere, khans, shrouded women, the strange solemn social life of

the East, Mohammed the Conqueror was adding everywhere to his empire.

Servia and Bosnia were annexed, Albania and Cyprus subdued; the whole

of Asia Minor was under his rule. He died on May 2, 1481, and left the

name of the greatest of the Turkish rulers. His laws, his organisation

of the judicial and religious class of the Ulemas, the teachers of

the people, were more permanent than his victories. But when he died

the power that he had founded rested securely on the great maxim which

his successors were, from his practice, to develop till it became a

fixed theory of government--that the children of Christians were alone

those who should enjoy the highest dignities of the empire.

The visitor to Constantinople remembers Mohammed most of all by the

magnificent mosque which towers over the city and is seen in such

striking effects of light from the heights of Pera. With the name of

his successor is associated a mosque as beautiful and as famous.

Bayezid succeeded his father in spite of a plot of the Grand Vizier to

give the throne to his younger brother Djem, whose romantic adventures

fill so large a space in the French and papal diplomacy of the end of

the fifteenth century. His reign (1481-1512) was marked like his

father's by great victories, and the once famous Turkish fleet owes

its origin to him. In him first appears the contemplative lethargic

character which was to become marked in some of the later Sultans.

Eastern writers called him a philosopher; and when he had ceased even

to pretend to be a warrior his troops insisted on his giving up the

throne to his son Selim.

Three weeks after his resignation he died. Rarely has he who has once

been Sultan lived long in retirement. Selim, with ferocious zest,

carried out, though he did not inaugurate, another custom of the

Ottoman monarchy. He swept away all possible claimants to his throne,

strangling his two brothers and five of his nephews. He followed the

victorious course of his predecessors; he fought in Persia, he seized

Egypt and occupied Jerusalem, and Mecca, the centre of Mohammedan

reverence, passed under his power. Savage and relentless as he

was--it became a proverb of hatred, "Would that thou wast the Vizier

of Sultan Selim"--he was yet, like so many of his race, a poet, and

the friend and patron of learned men. He died near Adrianople on the

22nd of September 1520, and left the throne to his son Suleiman, one

of the greatest of the Sultans.

Suleiman began with mercy. Justice and benevolence, he declared that

he took for the principles of his government. He freed prisoners, he

declared that he would rule in accordance with the precepts of the

Koran. From the first his reign was a succession of victories. In 1521

Belgrade surrendered; in 1522 he conquered the isle of Rhodes, so long

the gallantly defended outpost of Christendom in the Mediterranean.

For a time after these great successes he turned to pleasure, but

threatened insubordination among the Janissaries awoke the barbarity

which was never far below the surface in the great Turkish Sovereigns,

and Mustafa the aga with several of the officers paid for their

independence with their lives.

It was necessary, Suleiman saw, to continue war, to find employment

for his turbulent force; and in 1526 he marched against Hungary with a

force of a hundred thousand men. At Mohacz the Christian army was

utterly defeated after a gallant fight, in which Suleiman himself was

for a time in great danger, and in which at the end the flower of

Hungarian chivalry with their King at their head perished by the sword

or in the river through which they tried to escape. Buda Pesth fell

into the hands of the conqueror. All the prisoners taken at Mohacz

were massacred, and over a hundred thousand slaves were led back to

Turkey. The spoils were enormous. The library of the old Seraglio and

the treasury still hold some of the choicest manuscripts of the famous

library of Mathias Corvinus. Suleiman returned in triumph to

Constantinople.

To the passage of armies on their way to victory the people of the

great city had now become familiar as in the greatest days of the

Empire. Thirteen times, it is said, did Suleiman pass through the

gates on warlike expeditions and thirteen times did he return a

conqueror. He led his forces to the walls of Vienna, and though he was

at length compelled to withdraw, he inflicted a blow on the Empire

which it took long to recover, and he showed to Europe that a new and

terrible power had come to take part in the affairs of the West. In

Persia, if he was not entirely successful, yet he added new

territories to the Empire. A pirate fleet under his sanction swept the

seas. He defeated the combined fleets of Spain, Italy, and Venice.

During a reign of forty-six years he kept Europe and Asia at war. But

his greatest triumphs were not those of the battlefield. He made the

great Sovereigns of Christendom count him as their equal. Every prince

of the time was anxious to enter into negotiation with him. Their

envoys came to Constantinople, and were treated as suppliants. To

every indignity they submitted for the sake of winning the alliance of

"the grand Turk," the Sultan whom Europe came to call "the

magnificent."

France was the first to make alliance with the infidel; and in spite

of the papal curse the Mohammedan power was introduced as a prominent

actor in the politics of Europe by the most Christian King, Francis I.

The Sultan of sultans, King of kings, giver of crowns to the kings of

the world, the shadow of God upon the earth, Suleiman, the ever

victorious, assured the prostrate King of France that he need not

fear, for that every hour his horse was saddled, his sword girt on,

and he was ready to defend and to overthrow. A solemn treaty in

February 1535 united France and Turkey in bonds of perpetual amity. It

was renewed in 1553; and the alliance remained an important fact in

the politics of Europe for more than two hundred years.

Renowned for his victories in diplomacy and war, Suleiman's fame was

even greater as a patron of art and letters. It was through him first

that the Christendom of the sixteenth century heard of the glories of

Eastern literature, and that Europe began to imitate Asia. It was the

great age of Turkish poets. The court of Suleiman was thronged by

poets who vied with each other in celebrating the glories of their

master. Every bazaar of the East rang with his praises: in far distant

lands the ingenious verse-makers made his victories, his pleasures,

his magnificence, the theme of their elaborate compositions. Trade

poured into Stambûl. All the riches of the East, the wonderful carpets

and embroideries, the exquisite metal-work, the dignified designs of

the pen and the brush, fixed their natural home in the court of the

magnificent Suleiman. Under him the architecture of the Moslems

reached its culmination: the splendid mosque named after him, with the

türbehs around it, represent the great work of his age, worthy of

commemoration as lengthy as that which Procopius gave to the edifices

of his sovereign. Great as conqueror, as builder, and as restorer of

ancient work, Suleiman may well be called, in yet another aspect, the

Turkish Justinian. He was great also as a legislator, and his work

completed that of Mohammed II. He laid down the limits of the

privileges of the Ulemas, the powers of the Sheikh-ul-Islam and the

Grand Vizier. Financial organisation, so essential to the security of

his conquests, was made under his rule into an elaborate system. The

penal code was revised, simplified, and, on the whole, rendered less

severe. Every change, every reform, showed the guiding genius of the

great Sultan; arbitrary as the worst of his race, unrestrained always

in the exercise of his authority, he yet showed an Eastern despotism

at its best, animated by a zeal for justice, for regularity, for the

welfare of the people.

Suleiman, whose name exercised so great a fascination over the

imagination of the West, was the hero, Christian romancers thought, of

a grand passion. The name of Roxelana became famous in the drama and

poetry of Europe. Her story was indeed a striking one. Khurrem, "the

joyous one," was a Russian captive, who, in the later years of the

mighty Sultan, obtained an absolute control over him. From a slave,

placed among hundreds of other captives in the harem, she rose to be

herself Sultan,[35] the wife of the Commander of the Faithful.

It was contrary to all precedent that Suleiman deposed the mother of

his eldest son from her rank and made Roxelana Sultan. The French

Ambassador accounts for the elevation in this way. "Roxelana wished to

found a mosque for the weal of her soul, but the mufti told her that

the pious works of a slave turned only to the advantage of her lord:

upon this special ground Suleiman declared her free. This was

immediately followed by the second step. The free woman would no

longer comply with those desires of Suleiman which the bondswoman had

obeyed, for the fetwa of the mufti declared that this could not be

without sin. Passion on the one side and obstinacy on the other at

last brought it about that Suleiman made her his wife. A treaty of

marriage was ratified, and Roxelana was secured an income of 5000

sultanins."[36]

The extraordinary influence which this remarkable woman exercised over

the great Sultan was new, it seemed, to the Empire; it was not only

new, but destructive to the military system of the Turks that any

special attachment should be formed which should attract the Sultan to

the home rather than the camp. The Sultans, with all their gross

pleasures, had been ever warriors ready to desert everything for their

military duties, and had ruled their Empire as well as their army

solely by their own will. Suleiman seemed to open the way to

influences which would be destructive to the Turkish power; and one of

the greatest of the Viziers a century later said that all his

successors were fools or tyrants.

Be this so or not, Suleiman and Roxelana were unique in Turkish

history. Their devotion to each other appeared to be complete: and the

passionate love which grew rather than diminished with years, marked

the history of the court with the stains of sacrifice and crime.

Mustafa, the Sultan's eldest son, stood in the way of the children of

Khurrem. The Vizier Rustem Pacha was her devoted slave, owing to her

his elevation to the dignity of the Sultan's vicegerent. He brought to

Suleiman reports that Mustafa was allying with the Shah of Persia to

dethrone him, and was winning the Janissaries to his side, a charge to

which his valour and ability, and his great popularity with the

soldiers, might seem to give some colour. Suleiman himself, on his

Syrian campaign, ordered his son to appear before him. On September

21, 1553--the day was long remembered--the gallant Mustafa was brought

with great pomp and ceremony to the tent of the Sultan. When he

entered he found only the seven mutes armed with the fatal bowstring.

He was seized, and before he could utter more than one cry, he was

murdered. The thick tapestry at the back of the tent was drawn aside

and Suleiman entered to gaze upon the body of his son.

Even then the vengeance was not complete. The child of the murdered

Mustafa was stabbed at Brusa in his mother's arms. The horror that was

felt at these crimes became evident when the Janissaries demanded the

punishment of Rustem, and when Djihanghir, the son of Suleiman and

Roxelana, died of grief for the brother to whom he was devoted. The

new grand Vizier was sacrificed also: and not long afterwards the

beautiful Roxelana, Khurrem, passed away. The great Sultan gave her

the most beautiful of tombs. The art of the Mussulmans was centered in

that last home which the love of Suleiman could bestow.

"Without, the scented roses twine,

The Suleymanieh tow'rs o'erhead,

The flagstones, flecked with shade and shine,

Re-echo to the pilgrim's tread,

And soft grey doves their wings outspread

In the blue vault above the shrine."

If Roxelana was the evil genius of Suleiman, his reign was not more

happy after her death. Her two elder sons, Selim and Bayezid broke

into open war. Bayezid attacked Selim, and, betrayed, it would seem by

the basest of intrigues, he was defeated, and fled to Persia. Every

letter that he wrote to his father was suppressed, and the Persians

sold him to his brother by whom he and his four sons were put to

death. A few months later his fifth son, a child of three, was

strangled at Brusa by the Sultan's orders.

To the last, Suleiman led his troops to the field. He died on August

30, 1566, while he was conducting the siege of Szigeth, a small

fortress in Hungary. The grand Vizier concealed his death from the

army and sent messengers at once to Selim, who hastened to

Constantinople.

Suleiman left behind him a name more famous than any of his

predecessors save Mohammed the Conqueror. His lofty and enterprising

genius, his heroic courage, his strict observance of the laws of Islam

tempered at times by a wise tolerance, the order and economy which

were combined with his magnificence and grandeur, his love of

knowledge and the protection he extended to learned men, all mark him

out, says the historian of the Ottomans, among the noblest of his

race.

Selim II. began ill by not paying the largesse which the Janissaries

expected from a new sovereign. They mutinied, and he was obliged to

yield. His father had altered the ancient rule which required the

Janissaries only to go to the war when the Sultan himself took the

field. The Janissaries now compelled him to allow the enrolment of

their children in their ranks. Selim was no warrior, and he was glad

to send his troops without him. He preferred, the ambassadors say,

"the society of eunuchs and of women, and the habits of the serai to

the camp:" he "wore away his days in sensual enjoyments, in

drunkenness and indolence." "Whoever beheld him and saw his face

inflamed with Cyprus wine, and his short figure rendered corpulent by

slothful indulgence, expected in him neither the warrior nor the

leader of warriors. In fact, nature and habit unfitted him to be the

supreme head, that is the life and soul, of that warlike State."[37]

He was the first of the Turkish Sovereigns who was unworthy of the

throne that had been won by hard and incessant work. "I think not of

the future," he himself said, "I live only to enjoy the pleasure of

each day as it passes." A drunkard ruling over the Mussulmans, sworn

to total abstinence from all intoxicating drinks, was a grotesque and

disgusting anomaly. The people mocked while they followed the example.

"Where shall we get our wine to-day," they said, "from the Mufti

(priest) or from the Kadi (judge)?"

But whatever might be the character of the Sultan, it had become a

fixed policy with the Turks that the Empire could only be carried on

by aggressive war. Under Selim, though without his personal

intervention, war was made with Russia, but without success: the

conquests of Suleiman in Arabia were made complete, and Yemen fell

into the hands of the Turks. Then it was determined to complete the

conquest of the Mediterranean: war was declared against Venice, and

Cyprus was captured in August 1571. But this capture, which Selim

described to Barbaro as "cutting off one of the arms of the Republic"

was avenged by the famous naval league against the Turks. On October

7, 1571, Don John of Austria utterly destroyed the Turkish fleet at

Lepanto, capturing 130 galleys, 30,000 prisoners, and 15,000 Christian

slaves. It was the first sign of the long decline of the Ottoman

power. Europe awoke to the belief that the Turks were not invincible.

[Illustration: THE GOLDEN HORN FROM PERA, AFTER SUNSET]

The news was received with consternation in Constantinople. An

outbreak of Mohammedan fanaticism, as so often since, found its

expression in the ferocity of the Sultan. Selim issued orders for the

massacre of all the Christians in the city: happily his Vizier

deferred the execution of the command, and it was revoked. The

incident is characteristic. From 1453 the Christian inhabitants of the

capital have held their lives simply at the pleasure of the Commander

of the Faithful. At any moment the word may be spoken which the loyal

Turk must obey

"For an order has come from the Padishah

I must go and kill the Giaour."

The butchery was countermanded in 1571, but little more than twenty

years later it was again seriously proposed. When the Spaniards in

1595 sacked Patras, the extermination of the Christians in

Constantinople "was discussed in the divan, but the result was

confined to the publication of an order for the expulsion of all

unmarried Greeks from Constantinople within three days."[38] This was

in the reign of Murad III., and when he died, in the same year, "the

Janissaries, in their wonted manner, fell to spoiling Christians and

Jews, and were proceeding to further outrages, when their aga, to

restrain their insolence, hung up a Janissary taken in the act of

murdering a rayah."

The alarm of Mussulman Constantinople was ended by the speedy

reconstruction of a fleet, and by the capture of Tunis. But with none

of these triumphs was it possible to associate the name of Selim. He

died on December 12, 1574, "the victim," in the phrase of the Vicomte

A. de la Jonquière, "de sa passion pour le vin."

Murad III. his son and successor was not without good instincts. He

was a striking contrast to his father. He loved study, he was

temperate, he was a soldier. But the terrible custom, now become

almost a law of state, laid its frightful burden of crime upon him at

the moment of his succession. For eighteen hours he refused to be

proclaimed, he argued with the Muftis and the Ministers, to save the

lives of his brothers. But he yielded, willingly or unwillingly, and

the chief of the mutes was summoned to his presence, shown the body of

the dead Sultan, and given nine handkerchiefs for the nine princes in

the Seraglio. Weeping, Murad gave the order, says the Venetian

ambassador: and men thought when he began his reign that he would be

sober, wise, and just. He did not long retain the reputation. He began

a war with Persia and his troops were engaged on the Hungarian

frontier. But he followed the example of his father. He did not

himself lead his armies in the field. He rarely left the seraglio,

where he gave himself up entirely to the pleasures which appealed so

powerfully to the Moslem. The harem and the treasury became his sole

delights. The ambassadors tell stories that sound fabulous of his

insane desire for gold. He stripped ornaments from ancient works of

art and coined them into money; he collected from every quarter; he

pinched and starved everything but his private pleasures, and year

after year he cast into the great marble well which he had made

beneath his bed "two and a half millions of gold, all in sequins and

sultanins." Under him the sale of offices, which was begun by Rustem,

the vizier to whom Roxelana induced Suleiman to give his favour,

became a settled and almost fundamental rule of the state. Even

judicial and military offices were given for bribes, and the money was

caressed by the insane Murad and cast into the pit over which he

slept. The ambassadors describe in ludicrous language the impression

which Murad made upon them. He sat in state to receive them, he

received their presents, he listened to them with a stupid stare; then

he "went back to his garden, where in deep sequestered spots his women

played before him, danced and sang, or his dwarfs made sport for him,

or his mutes, awkward and mounted on as awkward horses, engaged with

him in ludicrous combats, in which he struck now at the rider now at

the horse, or where certain Jews performed lascivious comedies before

him." In fact the Sultans were becoming ridiculous, without ceasing to

be terrible. As for government, Murad left it to his vizier, a

Bosnian, Mohammed, who held his office in three reigns and far

surpassed any European minister in riches and power. It was he who

peacefully arranged the succession of both Selim and Murad, and so

long as he lived there was order and firmness in the government. But

after his death the chief office was passed from hand to hand,

according to the Sultan's fancy, and always a large sum found its way,

at each change of viziers, into the pit of gold. The elevation of

Ferhat reads like a tale in the Arabian Nights. Murad would wander

like Haroun al-Raschid through the bazaars. One day he heard a cook

bewailing the misgovernment of the city. He questioned him, approved

his replies, and next day summoned him to the palace and appointed him

to the office whose holder he had criticised, from which he rose to be

vizier. It was a perilous rise. Ferhat did not long retain his

position, but at least he escaped with his life. It was different with

others, and the precedent of handing over officers to the vengeance of

the Janissaries was set in 1590, when the soldiers attacked the

Seraglio and demanded the execution of the Beyler bey of Roumelia and

another. The plane tree of the Janissaries began its deadly history.

Murad died on January 6, 1596. His eldest son and successor, whose

mother was a Venetian, marked his accession by the most bloody of all

the murders which inaugurated the reign of the Sultans. He had his

nineteen brothers strangled in his presence, and then proceeded to

govern as though he had no objects but those of the most exalted

virtue. After a few weeks he left all the work to his ministers, and

was himself ruled entirely by his mother. In 1596, however, the

disasters of his army induced him to go himself to the war in

Wallachia. The sacred standard of the Prophet, preserved at Eyûb, was

unfurled, and on the field of Kereskte, Mohammed won a great victory

over the Austrians. He returned in triumph to Constantinople, where

the rest of his reign was marked by rebellions and misfortunes on all

sides. The plague made fearful ravages in the crowded streets of

Stambûl. It penetrated into the Seraglio, and it is said that

seventeen princesses, sisters of Mohammed, died. The sipahis rose and

demanded the heads of the eunuchs who ruled under favour of the

Valideh Sultan. They were given up and strangled. But then the Sultan

determined to take vengeance, he entrusted its execution to the

Janissaries. The sipahis were ordered to lay down their arms; if they

failed to do so they were threatened with the penalties of treason.

The soldiers thereupon delivered up their officers, who were put to

death. The Sultan himself died in 1603. His son Ahmed succeeded him,

an elder son having been put to death on pretence of having shown

independence of character which threatened the throne.

Ahmed I. was but fourteen when he came to the throne. Well served by a

wise Grand Vizier, his reign was marked by some signs of activity,

and, strange to say, by two years of peace. But the treaty of

Sitvakorok (1606) with Austria was another step in the decline of the

Ottomans.

Ahmed did something to redress the corruption that had infected the

government. He administered justice like the chieftains of old; he

received petitions, and saw that grievances were redressed. He began,

as he grew up, to read of the exploits of Suleiman, and to promise

himself that he would surpass them; but he had no stability of

purpose, and his reign passed away in disasters, with the murder of

the one eminent man, Nousouh Pacha, who might have saved the State,

and with the introduction of usages which seemed to the Ulemas to

strike at the very heart of Moslem law. Constantinople was almost

abandoned to mob-rule because the muftis forbade the use of tobacco,

which was introduced by the Dutch. It is impossible now to conceive a

Turk without this solace; and it is strange that it needed the most

ingenious arguments and the most stubborn defiance to procure the

withdrawal of the edict which forbade it to the Moslem. The poets, we

are told, called tobacco, coffee, opium, and wine the four elements in

the world of happiness; the Ulemas replied that they were the four

chief servants of the devil. The people settled the question for

themselves.

With Ahmed the custom of butchering the brothers of the new Sultan had

ceased. He not only spared the life of his brother Mustafa, but left

directions that he should succeed him on the throne. But the custom

which he began was even more fatal to the power of the Turks than that

which he ended. The succession of the oldest male of the royal house

might not itself have been a misfortune. But from the time when the

princes ceased to be strangled they were kept in the Seraglio, with no

knowledge of the work of government, trained only to a voluptuous and

effeminate life. Mustafa had almost lost his wits when he became

Sultan; he had been a prisoner for nearly forty years. Within three

months his violence, his promotion of two pages to be Pashas of Cairo

and of Damascus, his dislike of the female sex, convinced the

ministers that he was incapable of governing; he was again removed to

the Seraglio, and Osman II., the son of his brother Ahmed, was

elevated to the throne.

Of the troubles which beset the ambassadors and how they were

redressed more shall be said hereafter. Osman's six years of rule were

disturbed by sterner men. The Janissaries again showed that their

power was greater than that of the Sultan. Osman decimated them in

war, and executed many who drank wine; but they were too strong for

him, dragged the unhappy Mustafa again from prison, and again declared

him to be the ruling Sultan. The Kafess (cage), the splendid building

in the grounds of the old Seraglio, which even now may not be

approached, which had so long held him prisoner, has memories of no

stranger history than his. When he was dragged forth he trembled

before his nephew, and threw himself at his feet. Osman taunted the

Janissaries with the weakness of the ruler they preferred to himself;

but it was not weakness that the Janissaries feared. Osman was dragged

to the Seven Towers, and there, after a desperate struggle, he was

strangled in a dungeon. Within a few months the idiot Mustafa was

again deposed and sent back to the Kafess, where soon afterwards the

bowstring ended his miserable life. For the few months of his nominal

reign he was entirely in the hands of the soldiery; minister after

minister was given up to them, and ended his life by the bowstring or

on the fatal tree. The Janissaries held Constantinople in terror, and

raised and deposed a Sultan as easily as a minister.

Murad IV., still a child, the surviving son of Ahmed, was made Sultan

in 1623. In him the Turks had again a masterful and determined ruler.

His mother the Valideh, and his Vizier Hafiz, made the first years of

his reign distinguished if not glorious. Till 1632 he trained himself

in all military exercises; he rode, he drew the bow with the best of

the Janissaries. Then came the revolt of the Sipahis and Janissaries,

which gave him his opportunity. Constantinople was for many days in

the hands of the military mob, reinforced by disaffected troops who

had returned from Persia. They assembled in the Atmeidan (the old

Hippodrome); thence they went to the Seraglio and demanded the

"seventeen heads" of the Sultan's chief advisers and friends. For some

days Murad held out. He summoned the Vizier, Hafiz, who rode through

the crowd, past the barracks of the Janissaries, in at the Orta Kapou,

after dismounting, the stones of the mob falling round him as he

disappeared. Murad ordered him to escape to Juntan. Within a few hours

the Sultan was compelled to come forth to the people and hold Divan.

They demanded the seventeen--the "vizier, the aga of the Janissaries,

the deftarder, and even a boy, because he was liked by the Sultan."

"Give us the heads," they cried. "Give the men up to us, or it shall

be the worse for thee."

Murad summoned Hafiz to return to die. The Vizier came back, made the

ablution of the Moslem law before death, went forth calmly to the mob,

and was hewn in pieces outside the gate of the Seraglio. "Infamous

assassins," cried Murad, "who fear neither Allah nor his prophet, some

day if God wills you shall find your victims terribly avenged." "The

sole remedy against abuses is the sword," one said to the Sultan; and

the rest of his life showed how well he understood the lesson. One by

one the leaders of the revolt were secretly assassinated; their bodies

were found floating on the Bosporus. The Janissaries and the sipahis

were ostensibly received into favour again, justice was promised, and

the strict rule of law. But it was a reign of terror that Murad

inaugurated. His first execution had given him a passion for blood.

Sometimes he gratified it in the chase, when he slaughtered thousands

of head, driven together by an army of beaters. More often it was

displayed in the slaughter of men. In the year 1637 it was declared

that he had executed 25,000 men, many of them with his own hand. "He

was now terrific to behold. His savage black eyes glared threateningly

in a countenance half hidden by his dark brown hair and long beard;

but never was its aspect more peculiar than when it showed the

wrinkles between the eyebrows. His skill with the javelin and the bow

was then sure to deal death to some one. He was served with trembling

awe. His mutes were no longer to be distinguished from the other

slaves of the Serai, for all conversed by signs. While the plague was

daily carrying off fifteen hundred victims in Constantinople, he had

the largest cups brought from Pera, and drank half the night through,

while the artillery was discharged by his orders."[39]

Drunken and brutal as he was he had still much of the terrible force

of the early Ottomans. He led his own troops to battle, and when they

flinched--for the old spirit seemed to have deserted even the

Janissaries--he drove them forward with his own sword. He appears in

history as the Conqueror of Bagdad (1638) a conquest marked, it is

said, by a massacre of 25,000 people. He was the last Sultan whom the

people of Constantinople saw return in triumph from a war of which he

himself had been the leader.

He died on February 9, 1640, leaving behind him no child. Only his

mother's craft had prevented the murder of his only brother, the last

of the race of Osman. He left behind him an empire which seemed

entirely subdued to the Sultan's will. But the terror which he had

inspired could not endure; and while it lasted it could only paralyse

the forces which should have given strength and permanence to the

empire. Greedy, avaricious to an extent as enormous but not so

ridiculous as Murad III., the supreme passion of his life was the lust

of blood. It became an insanity; at night he would rush through the

streets, cutting down all whom he met. Yet he died in his bed; the

time had not come when Sultans were murdered as easily as Viziers.

Ibrahim, his successor, had been imprisoned in the Kafess since he was

a child of two. He had lived through the reigns of Mustafa, Osman and

Murad. He had been allowed no offspring. He was utterly ignorant of

politics and war. He cared for nothing but the pleasures of the harem.

When the soldiers went in to announce his accession he would not

believe that they desired anything but his death. He would not be

convinced till the corpse of his brother was brought before him. Then

he screamed with insane delight, "The empire is at last delivered from

its butcher."

His reign of nine years was a horrible mixture of tragedy and farce.

In licentiousness he outdid the worst of his predecessors, in folly

the silliest of them. The capture of the child of a favourite slave

led to the war of Candia: the marriage by his orders of his baby

daughter to a rich Pacha was used as an occasion to strangle the

bridegroom and seize his treasures. At length the shameful crimes of

the sovereign, of which murder seemed the least, caused an organised

insurrection in the city. The chief Mufti, whose daughter had been

shamefully used by the Sultan, assembled all the mollahs, and the

officers of the Janissaries and the sipahis in the Orta djami (a

mosque on the Etmeidan, the old quarter of the Janissaries, now

destroyed). They first demanded the execution of the Vizier. When that

was refused, the Janissaries secured the gates, surrounded the

Seraglio, caught and slew the Vizier. In S. Sophia, the Mufti, the

Sheik-ul-Islam, proclaimed to a vast multitude the iniquities of the

Sultan, and demanded his deposition. Solemnly the Osmanlis declared

Ibrahim, the padishah, the king of kings, the commander of the

faithful, unworthy to reign. His little child, Mohammed, only seven

years old, was fetched from the charge of his mother, the famous

Valideh Sultan, and invested with the ensigns of sovereignty. Ibrahim

was again carried to the Kafess. Ten days later appeared the mutes,

with the Vizier and the Sheik-ul-Islam; and the bowstring ended the

life of Ibrahim.

Mohammed IV. reigned for nearly forty years, 1649-1687, and he filled

a great space in the history of his time. Foreign observers--notably

that most entertaining writer Paul Ricaut, Esquire, "late secretary to

his Excellency the Earl of Winchelsea, Embassador Extraordinary for

His Majesty Charles II., to Sultan Mahomet Han the Fourth Emperor of

the Turks, now Consul of Smyrna, and Fellow of the Royal Society," in

his "History of the present state of the Ottoman Empire," and a

certain escaped slave (unless indeed it be an ingenious gentleman of

Grub Street) who wrote in 1663 "A new survey of the Turkish Empire and

Government"--made Europe well acquainted with the customs of the

Turks, and the manners, especially the least pleasing manners, of

their rulers. The Turk become better known, yet hardly less terrible;

and our knowledge of the revolutions of Constantinople now comes to

us, for the first time, largely from English observers. The story must

be briefly sketched. In the first year of the child-Sultan's reign

tragedies of the palace succeeded each other with fearful rapidity.

There was a contest between the Valideh, the mother, and Kiosem (as

Ricaut calls her), the grandmother of Mohammed. The aga of the

Janissaries took part against Sinan the Vizier, who, with the old

queen, determined to put a young child, Suleiman, on the throne. Sinan

took prompt measures. He entered the Seraglio, had the Valideh aroused

and sent to the bedside of her son. The household was armed. Suspected

traitors were slain before Mohammed's eyes, and their blood

bespattered his dress as he sat on his throne. While within the

Seraglio there was this confusion, without the whole city was in

disturbance, and the people were all aroused to defend their Sultan.

Ricaut's description is worth quoting. He derived his knowledge from

some persons intimately concerned, and the way he tells the tale, from

which a short passage is here given, shows how Eastern doings struck

the Westerns of his day.

"These preparations," he says,[40] "were not only in the Seraglio, but

likewise without; for the Visier had given order to all the Pashaws

and Beglerbegs, and other his Friends, that without delay they should

repair to the Seraglio with all the force they could make, bringing

with them three days Provision, obliging them under pain of Death to

this Duty. In a short space so great was this concourse, that all the

Gardens of the Seraglio, the outward Courts and all the adjoining

Streets were filled with armed Men: from Galata and Tophana came boats

and barges loaden with Powder and Ammunition and other necessaries; so

that in the morning by break of day appeared such an Army of Horse and

Foot in the Streets, and Ships and Gallies on the Sea, as administered

no small terrour to the Janizaries; of which being advised, and seeing

the concourse of the people run to the assistance of the King, they

thought it high time to bestir themselves; and therefore armed a great

company of Albaneses, Greeks and other Christians to whom they offered

Money, and the Title and Priviledges of Janizaries, promising to free

them from Harach, or Impositions paid by the Christians; which

Arguments were so prevalent, that most taking Arms, you might see the

Court and City divided, and ready to enter into a most dread confusion

of a Civil War."

[Illustration: FOUNTAIN IN THE COURT OF THE MOSQUE OF VALIDEH]

The end of the matter was that "the old queen" was dragged naked from

the Seraglio, a horror unknown in Turkish history, and bowstrung

outside the Orta Kapou. The banner of the Prophet was unfurled. The

Janissaries rallied to it. Their aga was deserted and slain, with his

accomplices, and (by retributive justice) the Vizier was stabbed in

the streets. Tranquillity was re-established, and the government was

carried on from the harem. From 1649 to 1656 six Viziers were deposed

or strangled, Pacha after Pacha broke into open revolt, the

Janissaries and sipahis fought against each other as if there had been

no Christians to conquer, and in turn demanded from the Sultan the

heads of those whom they chose to proscribe. The Valideh Sultan was

wisely and carefully educating her son. In 1656 she gave him the best

of teachers and viziers in Kuprili Mohammed. With him began the age of

the great Viziers who for a time revived the glory of the Turks. He

showed with severity that he intended to rule; and the Turks have

always submitted to one who knows how to command. The sipahis were

sent away from Constantinople and settled in the provinces. A rising

was sternly checked, and four thousand corpses were thrown into the

sea. Thus began the rule of the Kuprilian Viziers, which lasted from

1659 to 1702, a half century of varying fortunes, but never

wholly unfavourable to the Turks. The interminable war with

Candia went on, and the Austrian and Hungarian campaigns succeeded

each other with undeviating regularity. The Turks met Montecuculi, and

Sobieski, in the field; and when they were defeated they were at least

not disgraced. In 1683 Kara Mustafa, the Vizier, was defeated before

Vienna and the Turks were driven back to Belgrade. Though he was the

Sultan's son-in-law an order was sent to the camp for him to die; he

placed the cord with his own hands round his neck. In the year of

continuous warfare, when the forces of the empire bore the Turkish

banners against Venice, as well as the Empire, the vices and neglect

of the Sultan passed for a time almost unheeded. But in 1687 the

defeat of the army led to a demand for the punishment of the general,

Suleiman Pacha. Mohammed saw that this was but a step towards his own

deposition. He sacrificed his minister, and ordered the execution of

his own brother Suleiman, that there might be no one to replace him.

But it was too late. The army, in rebellion, marched on

Constantinople, released Suleiman and invested him as Sultan. Mohammed

was imprisoned till his death in 1693.

Suleiman II. reigned but four years, but he showed an unexpected

ability. His accession was marked by what had now become a custom, an

insurrection of the Janissaries. The house of the Grand Vizier was

sacked, his harem was violated, and the most shameful atrocities were

committed in the streets. Constantinople seemed to be given over to

pillage; the bazaars were attacked, and some private houses were

pillaged. The Sheik-ul-Islam was obliged to arouse the Ulemas and

display the standard of the Prophet over the gate of the Seraglio, and

when the Janissaries, like spoilt children, returned to their

allegiance, their leaders were executed and peace was restored. In

Suleiman the people had again a sovereign who lived according to the

precepts of the Koran. His wisdom and impartiality, extended even to

allowing the Christians of Constantinople to rebuild some of their

ancient churches, were recognised even by fanatics and he was counted

a saint. His wars were carried on by Kuprili Mustafa, to whom also his

brother Ahmed II. (1691-1695) abandoned all the power of government,

at the death of that wise statesman at the head of the defeated army

of the Turks at Salankanem. Mustafa II. (1695-1703) was the son of

Mohammed IV. His first proclamation to his people was a strange

document to issue from the arbitrary sovereign of the Osmanlis. He

attributed all the defeats and misfortunes of the last reigns to the

vices of the Sultans. "While the Padishahs who have ruled since our

sublime father Mohammed have heeded nought but their fondness for

pleasure and for ease, the unbelievers, the unclean beings, have

invaded with their armies the four quarters of Islam." In any other

monarchy it would have been dangerous indeed to criticise after this

fashion. At Constantinople neither the pen nor the voice was of much

importance. It was the sword that ruled.

And the sword of the Sultan had ceased to be victorious. In 1697

Mustafa was utterly defeated by Prince Eugene at Zenta. Again a

Kuprili was called to command, but by the treaty of Carlowitz, 1699,

by which Hungary and Transylvania were given up, the dismemberment of

the Empire had begun.

For the last two years of his reign Mustafa abandoned his capital and

lived in a palace at Adrianople. An intrigue deposed him in 1703, and

his brother Ahmed reigned in his stead. He began his reign by

executing all those who had taken part in his elevation, an act which

he followed by appointing another Kuprili Vizier. The next year was

marked by the beginning of serious wars with Russia, the bizarre

sojourn of Charles XII. at Bender, and the treaty of Passarowitz

(1718). The wars in which Turkey was now year by year involved

continued the slow process of the dismemberment of Turkey; but

Constantinople hardly felt the blows which struck the Empire at its

extremities. The description which English travellers give of the city

shows that strangers passed freely about in it, and that in many

respects it was superior to other European capitals as they were then,

and particularly in the condition of its streets, to what it became a

hundred years later, and remains to-day. A passage from Pococke's

travels (published in 1745) is worth quoting here. His description of

the four "royal" mosques he saw, those of Ahmed, Suleiman, Selim, and

Mohammed the Conqueror, shows that they were much as they are to-day,

but on the other hand S. Sophia and the Church of the Studium are

manifestly worse now than then; the latter indeed, now a mere ruin,

was then "the finest mosque next after Saint Sophia." Of the city he

writes thus[41]:--

"Great part of the houses of Constantinople are built with wooden

frames, mostly filled up with unburnt brick; and a great number of

houses are made only of such frames covered with boards. They have

notwithstanding very good rooms in them; and the streets are

tolerable, with a raised footway on each side. The street of

Adrianople is broad, and adorned with many public buildings; to the

south of it there is a vale which is to the north of the seventh hill.

The bazestans or shops of rich goods are such as have been described

in other places; and many of the shops for other trades are adorned

with pillars, and the streets in which they are, covered over in order

to shelter from the sun and rain. There are also several large kanes,

where many merchants live, and most of these have apartments in them,

where they spend the day, and retire at night to their families in

their houses. The bagnios also are to be reckoned another part of the

magnificence of Constantinople, some of them being very finely adorned

within. The fountains, likewise, are extremely magnificent, being

buildings about twenty feet square, with pipes of water on every side;

and within at each corner there is an apartment, with an iron gate

before it, where cups of water are always ready for the people to

drink, a person attending to fill them; these buildings are of marble,

the fronts are carved with bas-reliefs of trees and flowers and the

eaves projecting six or seven feet; the soffit of them is finely

adorned with carved works of flowers, in alto relievo, gilt with gold

in a very good taste, so that these buildings make a very fine

appearance."

Dr Pococke was certainly a somewhat dull person, and as certainly a

thorough Englishman. One feels that he never quite got over his

surprise that S. Sophia was not like Westminster Abbey or the Golden

Gate like Temple Bar. Happily we have a contrast to him in the

literature of his time.

Certainly the most charming, perhaps the most characteristic, account

of the city of the Sultan that the eighteenth century has left us, is

that of the Lady Mary Wortley Montague.

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF MOSQUE OF AHMED I.]

Her husband was appointed ambassador to the Sublime Porte in 1716, and

she accompanied him. The letters which form the records of her journey

out, of her life in Constantinople and of her return, serve to show,

as the "Lady" who wrote a preface to them when they were published

says she is 'malicious enough to desire,' "to how much better

purpose the ladies travel than their lords." The skill and point with

which she tells the most ordinary incidents of her travels, no less

than fixes on the contrasts that are so striking between what she sees

and what her correspondents are accustomed to, gives the letter an

imperishable charm. But not a little also is due to the position of

the writer. Merchants, and ordinary travellers, as she says, had told

the world long before a great deal about the marvels of the Turkish

Empire; but Lady Mary was a woman, a very clever woman, and an

ambassador's wife. She had the entrée where few others could go, and

she knew as very few others did how to describe what she had seen.

Constantinople: The Story of the Old Capital of the Empire · 第 4 / 10 章