CHAPTER XV.

JOHANNESBURG.

It is a delicate matter to indulge in platitudes about a city. For a

city is an organism more self-conscious than a state, and a personality

less robust than an individual. Comments which, if made on a nation,

would be ignored, and on an individual would be tolerated, awaken angry

reprisals when directed to a municipal area. The business is still more

delicate when the city concerned is not yet quite sure of herself.

Johannesburg is a city, though she has no cathedral to support the

conventional definition, or royal warrant to give her dignitaries

precedence; but she is a city still on trial, sensitive, ambitious,

profoundly ignorant of her own mind. Her past has been short and

checkered. She has done many things badly and many things well; she has

been the target for universal abuse, and still with one political party

fills the honourable post of whipping-boy in chief to the Empire. Small

wonder if her people are a little dazed--proud of themselves, hopeful

of her future, but far from clear what this future is to be.

At first sight she has nothing to commend her. The traveller who drags

his stiff limbs from the Cape mail sees before him a dusty road, some

tin-roofed shanties, with a few large new jerry buildings humped

above them: a number of straggling dusty pines and gums, a bit of bare

hillside in the distance, and a few attenuated mine chimneys.

Everything is new, raw, and fortuitous, as uncivilised and certainly

as ugly as the desert ridge on which an old Bezuidenhout planted his

homestead. The chief streets do not efface the first impression. Some

buildings are good, but the general effect is mean. The place looks as

if it had sprung up, like some Western township, in a night, and as if

the original builders had been in such a desperate hurry to get done

with it that they could not stop to see that one house kept line with

its neighbours. It is a common South African defect, but there is here

no _mise-en-scene_ to relieve the ugliness. Looking at Pretoria from

the hills one sees a forest of trees, with white towers and walls

rising above the green. The walls may be lath and plaster, but the

general effect is as pretty as the eye could wish. For Johannesburg

there is no such salvation. Looked at from one of her many hills, the

meanness and irregularity are painfully clear. She has far more trees

than Pretoria, but she is so long and sprawling that the bare ribs

have pushed aside their covering. An extended brickfield is the first

impression: a prosperous powder-factory is the last.

Yet in her way she has many singular beauties. Doubtless in time to

come she will be so great that she will contain more cities than one

in her precincts, and there may well be a residential quarter as fine

as any in Europe. The Rand is a long shallow basin with hilly rims,

within which lie the mines and the working city. The southern rim

shelves away into featureless veld, but the northern sinks sharply on

a plain, across forty miles of which rise the gaunt lines of the

Magaliesberg. What fashionable suburb has a vista of forty miles of

wild country, with a mountain wall on the horizon? Below on the flats

there are many miles of pine woods, valleys and streams and homesteads,

and the Pretoria road making a bold trail over a hill. In winter the

horizon is lit with veld-fires; in summer and spring there are the wild

sunsets of the veld and soft mulberry gloamings. The slope behind shuts

out the town and the mine chimneys, and yet the whole place is not

three miles from Market Square. Whatever happens, nothing can harm the

lucky dwellers on the ridge. Though the city creep ten miles into the

plain beneath, there is still ample prospect; and not all the fumes

from all the industries on earth can spoil the sharp vigour of the

winds blowing clean from the wilds.

But the place has not yet found itself. The city proper is still for

the future; for the present we have a people. What the real conception,

current in England, of this people may be it is not easy to tell, the

whole matter having been transferred to party politics, and presented,

plain or coloured, to partisan spectators. So we are given every

possible picture, from that of Semitic adventurers nourishing the fires

of life on champagne, to that of a respectable and thoroughly

domesticated people, morbidly awake to every sentiment of Empire.

"Judasburg," "the New Jerusalem," "the Golden City," and a variety of

other pet names, show that to the ordinary man, both in and out of

parties, there is something bizarre and exotic about the place. And yet

no conception could be more radically false. Johannesburg is first and

foremost a colonial city, an ordinary colonial city save for certain

qualities to be specified later. You will see more Jews in it than in

Montreal or Aberdeen, but not more than in Paris; and any smart London

restaurant will show as large a Semitic proportion as a Johannesburg

club. For a "Golden City" it is not even conspicuously vulgar. For one

fellow in large checks, diamonds, and a pink satin tie, you will meet

fifty quietly dressed, well-mannered gentlemen. A man may still be a

beggar to-day and rich to-morrow, but less commonly and in a different

sense. The old mining-camp, California-cum-Ballarat character of the

gold industry on the Rand has utterly passed away. Gold-mining has

ceased to be a speculation, and has become a vast and complicated

industry, employing at high salaries the first engineering talent of

the world. The prominent mine-owner is frequently a man of education,

almost invariably a man of high ability. In few places can you find men

of such mental vigour, so eagerly receptive of new ideas, so keenly

awake to every change of the financial and political worlds of Europe.

The blackguard alien exists, to be sure, but he is rarely felt, and the

hand of the law is heavy upon him. That Johannesburg is made up wholly

of adventurers and Whitechapel Jews is the first piece of cant to clear

the mind of.

The second is the old slander that the people think of nothing but the

market, are cowardly and selfish, indifferent to patriotism and

honour. It says little for Englishmen that they could believe this

falsehood of a place where the greater part of the inhabitants are

English. The war meant dismal sufferings for the artisan class, who

had to live in expensive coast lodgings or comfortless camps; and it

is to the credit of Johannesburg that she stood nobly by her refugees.

The old Reform movement was not a fortunate enterprise, but there was

no lack of courage in it; and even those who may grudge the attribute

can scarcely deny it to the same men at Elandslaagte and Ladysmith.

There have been various sorts of irregular regiments--many good, some

bad, one or two the very scum of the earth; but no irregular soldiers

showed, from first to last, a more cool and persistent courage than

the men who for years had sought to achieve by persuasion an end which

required a more summary argument. The truth is that the Johannesburger

has suffered by being contrasted, as the typical townsman, with the

Boer, as the typical countryman. Dislike the particular countryman as

we may, we have at the back of our minds a feeling that somehow, in

George Eliot's phrase, an unintelligible dialect is a guarantee for

ingenuousness, and that slouching shoulders indicate an upright

disposition. It is Johannesburg's misfortune that this anomalous

contrast should be forced on us. It is as if a sixteenth-century

peasant, without enterprise, without culture, wholly un-modern and

un-political, believing stoutly in a sombre God, were living side by

side with a race of _intellectuels_, scientists, and successful

merchants. Whatever reason or, as in this case, patriotism may say,

most men have a sneaking fondness for the peasant.

In every community which is worth consideration we find two forces

present in some degree--the force of social persistence and the force

of social movement. Critics of Johannesburg would have us believe that

the second only is to be found, and in its crudest form: the truth is

that, considering the history of the place and its novelty, the first

is remarkably strong. The point is worth labouring at the risk of

tediousness. It must be some little while before a mining city shakes

off the character of a mining camp. Men will long choose to live

uncomfortably in hotels and boarding-houses, looking for their reward

on their home-coming, discomfort none the less unpleasant because it

is tempered with unmeaning luxury. To its inhabitants the place is no

continuing city,--only a camp for the adventurer, who, when he has

made the most of it, returns to enjoy the fruits of his labour in his

own place. And then, after many years, there suddenly comes a day when

a man here and a man there realise that they have lost the desire to

return: they like the place, settle down, and found a home. Whenever

there is any fair proportion of this class in a mining city, then we

have a force of social persistence. The tendency is found in every

class of society. At one time the miner from Wales or Cornwall saved

his earnings and returned home; now he has his wife out and settles

for good. There is also a large commercial class, traders and small

manufacturers, who belong as thoroughly to the place as the South

African born. And with the more educated classes the same thing is

true. The price of building sites in the suburbs and the many pretty

houses which have arisen show that even for this class, which was most

nomadic in its habits, domesticity has become a fact.

This, then, is the cardinal achievement of Johannesburg, an unparalleled

achievement in so short a career. She has in a few years changed

herself from a camp to a city, acquired a middle class and a decent

artisan class,--both slow and difficult growths,--and shown a knack of

absorbing any species of alien immigrant and putting them on the way

to respectable citizenship. She has but to point to this solid

achievement as a final answer to the foolish calumnies of her enemies.

The mines are her staple industry, but the mines, so far as she is

concerned, are an industry and not a speculation; and she is creating

a dozen other industries of quite a different character, and may well

create a hundred more. She has become a municipality, with all the

traits, good and bad, of a nourishing municipality at home. She has

become colonial, too,--as colonial, though in a different way, as

Melbourne or Wellington. Formerly she was a mixture of every European

capital plus a little of the Dutch dorp: now she is English in

essence, the most English of all South African towns.

The future of the chief municipality of South Africa cannot be without

interest, for most problems will concern her first, and receive from

her their colour and character, and, possibly, their answer. She must

continue to represent one of the two foremost interests, and though it

is idle to distinguish political interests by their importance when

both are vital, yet we can admit that Johannesburg has for the moment

more obvious difficulties in her problems, and that her answer will be

more stormily contested. So far her development has been continuous.

The difficulties which she met with from the Kruger _regime_ were a

blessing in disguise, being of the kind to put her on her mettle. But

the present stage in her history is more critical. Formerly the

question was whether she was to remain a foreign cesspool or rise to

the status of an English city. Now it is whether she will go the way

of many colonial cities, and become vigorous, dogmatic, proud,

remotely English in sentiment, consistently material in her outlook,

and narrow with the intense narrowness of those to whom politics mean

local interests spiced with rhetoric; or, as she is already richer,

more enlightened, and more famous than her older sisters, will advance

on a higher plane, and become in the true sense an imperial city, with

a closer kinship and a more liberal culture. The question is a subtle

and delicate one, as all questions of spiritual development must be. A

year ago much depended on the attitude of England. Johannesburg had

suffered heavily in the war. Time and patience were needed to repair

the breaches in her fortunes, and to permit her to advance, as she

must advance, if the Transvaal is to become a nation. She was rightly

jealous of her reputation and future prosperity. If taxation was to be

crudely imposed, if her just complaints were to be met with the old

nonsense about a capitalists' war, if she was to be penalised for her

most creditable industry, then there was a good prospect of a serious

estrangement. There was no issue on the facts. She never denied her

liability, and she was willing to pay cheerfully if a little common

tact were shown in the handling. A man who may have his hand in his

pocket to repay a debt will withdraw it if his creditor tries to

collect the money with a bludgeon. Happily the crisis has passed. A

scheme of war contribution was arranged which, while still bearing

heavily, almost too heavily, on the country in its present transition

stage, is yet a small sum if contrasted with the lowest estimate of

her assets. But much still depends on the attitude of England. A

little sympathy, a little friendliness, a modest diminution of

newspaper taunts, some indication that the home country sees and

appreciates the difficulties of its daughter, and is content to trust

her judgment: it is not much to ask, but its refusal will never be

forgotten or forgiven. For Johannesburg in this connection represents

the country on its most sensitive side, and acts as a barometer of

national feeling.

In this imperfect world there can be no development without attendant

disorders. A dead body is never troublesome, but a growing child is

prone to exasperate. A young city which is perfectly reasonable and

docile deserves to be regarded with deep mistrust, for it is likely to

continue in a kind of youthful sensibility till it disappears.

Ferment is a sign of life, and the very crudeness of the ideals which

cause the ferment is a hopeful proof of vigour. Municipalities since

the beginning of time have been the home of aspirations after

self-government, however ill-suited they may have been to rule

themselves. At this moment the Transvaal is a Crown colony, which is

to say that a mode of government devised for subject races is being

applied for a time to a free and restless British population. The

justification is complete, but we need not be shocked when we find

Johannesburg chafing at her fetters. The less so when we reflect that

in one aspect she is a colonial city, full of the exaggerated

independence of the self-made. The fastidiousness which comes from

culture and tradition, the humour which springs from unshaken

confidence, must necessarily be absent in a municipality which is

still diffident, still largely uneducated. Politics must begin with

the _schwaermerisch_ and the vapid,--"that vague barren pathos, that

useless effervescence of enthusiasm, which plunges with the spirit of

a martyr into an ocean of generalities." Embryo cities are drunk with

words, with half-formed aspirations and vague ideals; wherefore the

result must be sound and fury and little meaning till by painful stages

they find themselves and see things as they are. So far this unrest has

taken two forms--a continuous and somewhat unintelligent criticism of

the Administration, and an attempt by means of numerous associations to

give voice to popular demands in the absence of representative

institutions; and the beginnings of a labour party. The first is as

natural as day and night. Many grave matters, chiefly financial, are

being decided above Johannesburg's head, and it is reasonable that she

should wish to state her own case. This is her strong point: the

weakness of her position is that it is also a criticism of a

reconstruction which is still in process, still in that stage when the

facts are far more clearly perceived by the man on the watch-tower than

by the crowd in the streets below. A pawn in a game is not the best

authority on the moves which lead to success. Patience may be a

distasteful counsel, but why should she disquiet herself when all

things in the end must be in her hands? "The people," to paraphrase a

saying of Heine, "have time enough, they are immortal; administrators

only must pass away." But we cannot complain of this critical activity,

however misplaced. It is a sign of life, and is itself the beginnings

of political education. The second form of agitation is less reasonable

and more dangerous, though perhaps less dangerous here than anywhere

else in the world. There must exist on the Rand, in mines, railways,

and subsidiary industries, a large white industrial population; and the

imported agitator will endeavour to organise it in accordance with his

interests. There is little theoretical justification for the movement.

There are no castes and tyrannies to fight against in a country which

is so new and self-created. The great financial houses will not develop

into Trusts on the American model; and even if they did, the result

would have small effect on the working man, either as labourer or

consumer. There are dozens of false pretexts. The working man of the

Rand may try, as he has tried in Australia, to stereotype his monopoly

and prevent the influx of new labour; or he may use the necessary

discomforts of a transition stage as a lever to raise his wages; or the

idle and incompetent may grumble vaguely against a capitalism which has

been built up by their abler brothers. The pretexts are light as air.

He lives in a free society, and within limits can secure his comfort

and independence beyond a chance of encroachment. But unhappily it does

not require a justification in reason to bring the labour agitator into

being. That type, so well known in Australia, has already appeared, the

unreasoning obstructionist, who, armed with a few platitudes and an

entire absence of foresight, preaches his crude gospel to a class which

is already vaguely unsettled by the intricacies of the economic

problem. There is almost certain to be an attempt to organise labour on

Australian lines, and to create a party like the Sand Lot agitators in

San Francisco, in order to do violence to the true economic interests

of the land on behalf of a prejudice or a theory. Yet I cannot think

that there is more in the prospect than a temporary inconvenience. No

labour party can be really formidable unless it is based on profound

discontents and radical grievances; and the annoyances of the

Johannesburg proletariat are, as compared with those of Europe, like

crumpled rose-leaves to thorns. There is too strong a force of social

persistence in the city to suffer it ever to become the prey of a

well-organised gang of revolutionaries; and if such a force exists, the

experience of Victoria in its great railway strike of 1903 would seem

to show that in the long-run no labour war can succeed which tends to a

wholesale disorganisation of social and industrial life.

But if Johannesburg shows a certain unrest, she also reveals a

curious solidarity--the strength of narrowness and exclusion, which is

partly natural and due to the struggle for self-conscious existence,

and partly accidental and based on a profound disappointment. Her

citizens believed that the end of the war would begin a golden age of

unprecedented prosperity. Money was to flow into her coffers, her

population to grow by many thousands each year, and she herself was to

stand out before an envious world as a type of virtue rewarded. She

miscalculated the future, and the facts left her aghast. Conservative

estimates, a few years back, put the value of the gold output in 1902

at between 20 and 30 millions: the actual figures during the first

year of peace show little over 10 millions--a reduction on the output

of 1898. Hence the almost hysterical concentration of interest on the

one great industry. Men who in other matters are remarkable for their

breadth of view, are to be found declaring that everything must be

made subordinate to mining development,--not in the sense in which the

saying is true, that the prosperity of the country depends in the

first instance on the mines, but in the quite indefensible sense that

any consideration of other things, even when there is no conflict

between them and the mining interest, is a misapplication of energy

which should go to the greater problem. It is fair to argue against a

programme of public works which might draw native labour from the

mines, because, unless we cherish the goose, there will be no golden

eggs to pay for our programmes. But to condemn schemes of settlement

which are no more a hindrance to the gold industry than to the

planetary system, is to show a nervous blindness to graver questions,

which is the ugliest product of the present strain and confusion. This

trait, however, cannot be permanent; and we may look to see the gold

industry in time, when its own crisis is past, become that enlightened

force in politics which the ability of its leaders and the weight of

its organisation entitle it to be. For the other form of narrowness,

which consists in the limitation of citizenship, there is ample

justification in present circumstances. A new city must begin by

drawing in her skirts and showing herself, perhaps unwarrantably,

jealous and sensitive. More especially a city which has hitherto been

rather a fortuitous gathering of races than a compact community, is

right in straining after such compactness, even at the cost of a

little injustice. The only danger lies in the perpetuation of this

attitude when its justification has gone.

The fault of Johannesburg, to sum up, lies for the moment in a

certain narrow hardness of view: her hope is in the possession of

rich elements unknown in most new cities; while her greatest danger

lies in the fact that she cannot yet honestly claim those elements as

her own. She is apt to judge a question from a lower point of view

than the question demands--to take up a parochial standpoint in

municipal affairs, a municipal standpoint in national affairs, a

national standpoint in imperial questions. In spite of her many

splendid loyalties, she will find it hard to avoid the assertive

_contra mundum_ attitude which seems inseparable from flourishing

colonial cities--a dogmatism natural, but unfortunate. On the other

hand, her history and her present status give her a chance beyond

other new cities. She starts on her civic career already rich,

enterprising, the magnet for the first scientific talent of the world.

A fortunate development might give her a cultivated class, true

political instincts, and the self-restraint which springs from a high

civilisation, without at the same time impairing that energy which she

owes to her colonial parentage. The danger is that her ablest element

may continue alien, treating the city as a caravanserai, and returning

to Europe as soon as its ambition is satisfied. So far the intellect

has not been with the men who have made the place their home, but,

subject to a few remarkable exceptions, with the men who have never

concealed their impatience to get away. If she fails to make this

class her citizens, then, whatever her prosperity, as a city she will

remain mediocre. Nothing can deprive her of her position as the

foremost market; but if she is to be also the real capital of South

Africa, she must absorb the men who are now her resident aliens. There

are signs, indeed, that the process has begun in all seriousness. As

she becomes a more pleasant dwelling-place, many who find in the

future of the country the main interest of their lives will find in

Johannesburg the best field of labour for the end they desire. And the

growth of such a leisured class, who take part in public life for its

own sake and for no commercial interests, will not only import into

municipal politics a broader view and a healthier spirit, but will do

much to secure that community of interest between town and country by

which alone a united South Africa can be created.

The African Colony: Studies in the Reconstruction · 第 5 / 9 章