=The Greyhound=
From representations upon Egyptian monuments, etc., the Greyhound has
been shown to have been in existence for three thousand years at least,
and, according to Holinshead, was introduced into Britain some time
during the third century. The first record of any coursing club in this
country is said to be that founded by Lord Orford in Norfolk, during
1776.
The modern Greyhound is vastly superior to those of the ancients, if
the old prints are faithful representations of these fleet-coursing
thoroughbreds.
Although the Greyhound hunts by "sight," he is by no means "devoid" of
hunting by "scent," as the Foxhound, Otterhound, etc. Misterton, winner
of the Waterloo Cup in 1879 (63 lbs. weight); Coomassie, winner of the
Waterloo Cup twice (weight 42 lbs.); Master M'Grath, winner of the
Waterloo Cup three times (54 lbs.), and Fullerton (65 lbs.), winner of
the Waterloo Cup three times and a division of it the fourth time with
his kennel companion, may be said to have been the grandest quartet of
Greyhounds ever gracing the course.
To enter into a detailed account of the Greyhound would be quite
outside the title and scope of this work, therefore the author will
only give a brief outline of some of the more important points of these
fleet-footed Hounds, which are as follows:--
_Head._--This should be long and narrow, wide between the ears and low
between the eyes. The head of a bitch is of finer mould. Lean jaws.
_Eyes._--Penetrating and full of animation.
_Ears._--Elegantly carried and small.
_Neck._--Very important. Must be long, strong, very supple, and, above
all, graceful. A high degree of flexibility is indispensable.
_Fore-quarters._--Shoulders must not be over-loaded with muscle, but a
great degree of obliquity is a _sine qua non_.
Arm, long, ending below in a strong elbow joint.
_Fore-arm._--Very long, strong, and should consist of little beyond
bone, muscles and tendons. It is in this region, particularly, that the
Greyhound excels in beauty. Must be as straight as a line from elbow to
knee, and, above all, well placed in relation to the parts above and
below.
The forward position of the fore-limbs are a striking feature of the
Greyhound, giving a minimum of weight to carry in front.
_Long oblique pasterns_, and compact hard feet are points of great
importance.
_Hind-quarters._--Strength, width, and a great degree of flexibility
are necessary in this region. Weak, or soft muscles destroys a
Greyhound's speed, turning and staying power.
[Illustration: GREYHOUND BITCH LADY GOLIGHTLY (Property of Mrs.
DEWÈ).]
[Illustration: FAWN GREYHOUND DEAN BADEN POWELL (Property of Mr EYERS,
Blandford).]
[Illustration: A TRIO OF GREYHOUNDS (Property of Mrs DEWÈ).
DUKE O' RINGMER.
LADY GOLIGHTLY.
GLORY O' RINGMER.]
[Illustration: GREYHOUND, SUSSEX BELLE (Property of Mrs DEWÈ).]
First and second thighs must be long, and well muscled.
The oblique position of the second thighs constitutes the main beauty
in this region. Their backward curve joins the hocks in such a manner
as to give the greatest possible leverage on the long, strong, pasterns
and feet below.
The angles of the hocks are very acute, and, in relation to the body,
placed very far back.
If a Greyhound has not typically formed and well-placed hind-quarters,
he will never make his mark as a runner.
_Chest._--Most certainly should be deep, but not wide.
If a greyhound is not well-hearted he is no good for speed, or
endurance.
Flatness of ribs, especially towards the keel, is advantageous.
_Tail._--Long and tapering.
_Coat._--Of medium texture, neither too coarse, nor too fine.
_Colour._--Unimportant. A good Greyhound may be any colour.
Our illustrations are from photographs kindly lent by Mrs Dewè of
Ringmer, and Mr Eyers of Blandford.
The Whippet
The Whippet may be described as a miniature Greyhound, and is judged
much upon the same lines. The chief use of these little dogs is that of
racing on a course, and for rabbiting, also as a snap-dog. It is rather
singular, but miners, etc., are remarkably fond of Whippets, and the
Lancashire and Staffordshire towns contain a lot of this breed.
This variety of canine flesh resulted through crossing a Greyhound and
Terrier.
The best time of the year to breed Whippets is the spring, so that the
youngsters will have the whole of the summer to develop in.
For general purposes, from 15 to 18 or 20 lbs. is the most useful
weight, and of either whole, or mixed colours. Fawn, bramble, blue, red
and white are very common ones.
_Coat._--Should be fine and close.
_Constitution._--Must be sound (otherwise a Whippet is not the
slightest use), and the chest of good capacity, _i.e._, the dog ought
to be well-hearted. A long, lean, finely-chiselled head (wide between
the eyes), and flat on the top, with bright, expressive eyes, and small
rose ears, are essentials.
Shoulders should have a good slope; the neck long, clean, and inclined
to be straight, not arched, as stated by some authorities.
_Fore-limbs._--These must be as straight as a line; have good bone, be
long, have well-developed muscles, and well placed in relation to the
body.
[Illustration: TYPICAL WHIPPET DOG DANDY COON (Property of Mr THOMAS
REDRUTH).]
The shoulders long, the arms long, forearms very long, and pasterns
long, but proportionate.
The loins are very important features in a good Whippet. This region
should show strongly-developed muscles, be slightly arched, passing in
front on to a broad and square back.
Front ribs to be well rounded and long; the back ones short.
_Hind-quarters, Tail, and Feet._--If a racing dog is poorly developed
in these regions, he is no use for the purpose. The outlines of the
individual muscles ought to be plainly seen.
Long first and second thighs are a _sine qua non_ in the Whippet. Both
width and strength are necessary. Well-bent stifles and strong hocks
equally essential. Feet round, and well split up.
_Tail._--Long, tapered, and nicely curved.
_General Appearance of the Whippet._--A smart, racily-built,
active-looking dog, of various colours, having a deep chest, narrow
waist, and long, beautifully modelled, muscular extremities.
SECTION D
=Mixed Hounds=
CHAPTER X
BORZOIS
BEAGLES
DACHSHUNDS
BASSET-HOUNDS (Rough and Smooth)
[Illustration: BORZOIS PADIHAM NORDIA (Property of Mr MURPHY).]
[Illustration: BORZOIS DOG (Property of Mrs HEAVEN).]
CHAPTER X
=The Borzois or Russian Wolfhound=
The Borzois appears to be unquestionably of Russian origin, being,
in anatomical structure, closely allied to the Greyhound, and in his
native country is used for hunting the wolf, a brace being "slipped"
after the wolf has been beaten out of cover, much in the same fashion
as Greyhounds' coursing. The Hounds retain their hold until the
huntsman arrives to secure it.
Russian Wolfhounds have during recent years become remarkably
fashionable in England, probably in a large measure owing to the fact
that Queen Alexandra, the Duchess of Newcastle--who owns some of
the finest specimens of the breed in this country--and many others
of aristocratic lineage, have been keen supporters of these noble
creatures. In England, the only use for these hounds is that of
companionship. They are, when trained, fairly good house dogs, though
the uncertain temper of many of these Hounds renders them not very
reliable. Although always carrying a most benignant expression, this
will often be found to be deceptive.
A typical Borzoi should have a long, lean head; flat and narrow skull,
and long, tapering muzzle, the head of the bitch being somewhat finer
than that of the dog.
Greyhound-like _ears_, and dark, elliptically-shaped eyes.
_Chest_, narrow and deep, with great depth of rib behind the elbows,
one of the most striking features of the breed.
_Neck_, very muscular, rather long and deep where it joins the
shoulders, and these ought to be fairly oblique, but well clothed with
muscles.
A long, straight back and broad loins, with powerful quarters, long
thighs and low-placed, strong hocks are counted points for the show
bench. The hind limbs, in relation to the body, are placed very far
back, only just appearing to be under it at the lower part of the
extremities when the dog is standing still.
Tail must be heavily feathered, long, and carried down, the so-called
"gay" carriage being a drawback.
_Fore-Limbs._--Good fore-limbs are a _sine qua non_. The arms should be
well muscled, and the forearms long, straight, broadening out as they
approach the arms, and tapering from a trifle above the knees until the
feet are reached. These ought to be long, toes well arched, and close.
_Colour._--Grey, or orange patches on a white ground.
_Coat._--Short and smooth on the head, ears, and fore-limbs. The frill
on neck should be abundant and somewhat curly. That covering the head,
body, tail, and hind-quarters, long and silky.
_Height._--Dogs from 28 inches, and bitches from 26 inches.
_Faults._--A drooping nose; sickle-shaped carriage of the tail, short
back, weak forehand, etc.
_Club._--The Borzoi, formed in 1892.
=The Beagle=
This is a very ancient variety of sporting dog, and one that was much
in favour during the Elizabethan period, these miniature Hounds even at
that time being spoken of as the "merry, singing Beagles."
The typical Beagle is a modification of the Foxhound, and has every
appearance of having been derived, by selection, from this source.
Just as the Foxhound is used for hunting the fox, the Harrier for
hunting the hare, so is the Beagle employed for rabbit-hunting--hence
the term "Rabbit Beagles," of which there are many small packs of
these splendid little creatures up and down this, and other countries
sometimes used for hare-hunting.
The smaller ones--Pocket Beagles in particular--are lovely little
Hounds, and to the sportsman who loves hunting on foot, they are ideal
field companions.
Typical specimens of the breed are, in our opinion, handsome; their
symmetrical form and workmanlike appearance carry an irresistible charm
into the heart of the rabbit-hunter.
There is also the Rough-coated Beagle, and for these a class is usually
provided at the Kennel Club and Cruft shows, in London.
In order to breed Pocket Beagles it is advisable to select as small a
sire and dam as possible, because there seems to be a natural tendency
for these Hounds to become over, rather than under, sized.
By instinct, the Beagle seems to take to work.
Taking puppies out along with a "schoolmaster" or "mistress" will
generally be sufficient education, if carried out in systematic lessons.
These Hounds are, as a rule, quiet and affectionate, and some are not
at all bad house dogs, though, of course, this is quite outside the
uses for which they have been designed.
When purchasing Beagles, more especially for work, there are several
important matters to look to.
Buy Hounds having a dense, rather coarse coat; short, strong, upright
pasterns, cat-like feet, short back, heavily muscled on the quarters
and second thighs, and well-hearted, _i.e._, a deep chest and
well-sprung ribs.
[Illustration: A GROUP OF LEYSWOOD BEAGLES.]
[Illustration: POCKET BEAGLE CHEERFUL OF RODNANCE (Property of Mrs
OUGHTON GILES).]
Good coupling is essential.
Long ears, low set on, fine, and hanging close to cheek are additional
points of beauty.
The classes at the London Kennel Club shows are:--
1. Not exceeding 10 inches.
2. Not exceeding 12 inches.
3. Over 10 but not over 12 inches.
4. Over 12 but not over 16 inches.
5. In the Novice Class--any height.
6. Class for Rough Coats.
The following descriptions and standards of points will afford the
reader the best information upon the subject, but as the English and
American standards differ somewhat in details, the author deems it
advisable to insert the descriptions framed by both clubs.
1. ENGLISH BEAGLE CLUB
DESCRIPTION AND STANDARD OF POINTS
_Head._--Of fair length, powerful, without being coarse, skull domed,
moderately wide, with an indication of peak, "stop" well defined,
muzzle not snipy, and lips well flewed.
_Nose._--Black, broad, and nostrils well-expanded.
_Eyes._--Brown, dark hazel or hazel, not deep-set or bulgy, and with a
mild expression.
_Ears._--Long, set on low, fine in texture, and hanging in a graceful
fold close to the cheek.
_Neck._--Moderately long, slightly arched, and throat showing some
dewlap.
_Shoulders._--Clean and slightly sloping.
_Body._--Short between the couplings, well let down in chest, ribs
fairly well sprung and well ribbed up, with powerful, and not tucked-up
loins.
_Hind-quarters._--Very muscular about the thighs, stifles and hocks
well bent, the latter well let down.
_Forelegs._--Quite straight, well under the dog, of good substance and
round in bone; feet round, well knuckled up, and strongly padded.
_Stern._--Of moderate length, set on high, carried gaily, but not
curled over the back.
_Colour._--Any recognised Hound colour.
_Coat._--Smooth variety: smooth, very dense, and not too fine or short.
Rough variety: very dense and wiry.
_Height._--Not exceeding 16 inches.
_General Appearance._--A compactly-built Hound, without coarseness,
conveying the impression of great stamina and activity.
Pocket Beagles must not exceed 10 inches in height, although ordinary
Beagles in miniature. No point, however good in itself, should be
encouraged, if it tends to give a coarse appearance to such minute
specimens of the breed. They should be compact and symmetrical
throughout, of true Beagle type, and show great quality and breeding.
_Classification._--It is recommended that Beagles should be divided at
shows into Rough and Smooth, with classes for "not exceeding 16 inches
and over 12 inches"; "not exceeding 12 inches and over 10"; and "not
exceeding 10 inches."
STANDARD OF POINTS
Skull 6
Ears 10
Eyes 3
Expression 5
Muzzle, jaws, and lip 10
Coat 5
Legs and feet 15
Neck and shoulders 10
Chest 5
Back, loins, and ribs 15
Hind-quarters 10
Stern 6
----
100
_Disqualifying Point._--Any kind of mutilation. (It is permissible to
remove the dewclaws.)
2. AMERICAN BEAGLE CLUB
POINTS, &C.
_Head._--The skull should be moderately domed at the occiput, with the
cranium broad and full. The ears set on low, long, and fine in texture,
the forward or front edge closely framing and inturned to the cheek,
rather broad and rounded at the tips, with an almost entire absence of
erectile power at their origin.
_Eyes._--The eyes full and prominent, rather wide apart, soft and
lustrous, brown or hazel in colour. The orbital processes well
developed. The expression gentle, subdued, and pleading.
_Muzzle._--The muzzle of medium length, squarely cut, the "stop" well
defined. The jaws should be level. Lips either free from, or with
moderate, flews. Nostrils large, moist, and open.
_Defects._--A flat skull, narrow across the top of head, absence of
dome. Ears short, set on too high; or when the dog is excited, rising
above the line of the skull at their points of origin, due to an excess
of erectile power. Ears pointed at tips, thick or boardy in substance,
or carried out from cheek, showing a space between. Eyes of a light or
yellow colour. Muzzle long and snipy. Pig jaws, or the reverse, known
as undershot. Lips showing deep, pendulous flews.
_Disqualifications._--Eyes close together, small, beady, and
Terrier-like.
_Neck and Throat._--Neck rising free and light from the shoulders,
strong in substance, yet not loaded; of medium length. The throat
clean, and free from folds of skin; a slight wrinkle below the angle of
the jaw, however, may be allowable.
_Defects._--A thick, short, cloddy neck carried on a line with the top
of the shoulders. Throat showing dewlap and folds of skin to a degree
termed "throatiness."
_Shoulders and Chest._--Shoulders somewhat declining, muscular, but
not loaded, conveying the idea of freedom of action with lightness,
activity, and strength. Chest moderately broad and full.
_Defects._--Upright shoulders and a disproportionately wide chest.
_Back, Loins, and Ribs._--Back short, muscular, and strong. Loin
broad and slightly arched, and the ribs well sprung, giving abundant
lung-room.
_Defects._--A long or swayed back, a flat, narrow loin, or a flat,
constricted rib.
_Forelegs and Feet._--Forelegs straight, with plenty of bone. Feet
close, firm, and either round or hare-like in form.
_Defects._--Cow-hocks and open feet.
_Tail._--The tail should be carried gaily, well up, and with some
medium curve, rather short as compared with the size of the dog, and
clothed with a decided brush.
_Defects._--A long tail, with a "tea-pot" curve.
_Disqualifications._--A thinly-haired, rattish tail, with entire
absence of brush.
_Coat._--Moderately coarse in texture, and of good length.
_Disqualifications._--A short, close, and nappy coat.
_Height._--The meaning of the term "Beagle" (a word of Celtic origin,
and in Old English, "Begele") is small, little. The dog was so named
from his diminutive size. Your Committee, therefore, for the sake
of consistency, and that the Beagle shall be in fact what his name
implies, strongly recommend that the height line shall be sharply
drawn at 15 inches, and that all dogs exceeding that height shall be
disqualified as overgrown and outside the pale of recognition.
_Colour._--All Hound colours are admissible. Perhaps the most popular
is black, white and tan. Next in order is the lemon and white, the
blue and lemon mottles; then follow the solid colours, such as
black-and-tan, tan, lemon, fawn, etc. This arrangement is of course
arbitrary, the question being one governed entirely by fancy. The
colours first named form the most lively contrast, and blend better
in the pack, the solid colours being sombre and monotonous to the
eye. It is not intended to give a point value to colour in the scale
for judging, as beforesaid all true Hound colours being correct. The
following remarks on the subject are therefore simply suggestive.
_General Appearance._--A miniature Foxhound, solid and big for his
inches, with the wear-and-tear look of the dog that can last in the
chase and follow his quarry to the death.
_Note._--Dogs possessing such serious faults as are enumerated under
the heading of "Disqualifications" are under the grave suspicion of
being of impure blood. Under the heading of "Defects," objectionable
features are indicated, such departures from the standard not, however,
impugning the purity of the breeding.
CHAPTER XI
=The Dachshund=
[Illustration]
Like many other varieties of the dog, the origin of the Dachshund seems
to be involved in obscurity, though there are fairly reasonable grounds
for concluding that the home of the Dachshund is Germany, where the
terrier-like type is that cultivated, the Hound characteristics of the
breed having become largely developed through the English system of
breeding.
To anyone unacquainted with this breed of dog in his own country, the
Hound features are the most striking, in fact, so overshadow anything
of the Terrier element as to completely obscure it.
Some few years since the Dachshund was an exceedingly fashionable
variety of dog, chiefly as a lady's companion.
[Illustration: DACHSHUND CHAMPION SNAKES PRINCE (Property of Mr DE
BOINVILLE).]
[Illustration: A BRACE OF TYPICAL DACHSHUNDS (Property of Mr DE
BOINVILLE).]
[Illustration: DACHSHUND DOG AND BITCH (Property of Mrs GERALD
SPENCER).]
[Illustration: RED DACHSHUND VICTORIA REGINA (Property of Miss
BLACKOE).]
Latterly he seems to have been displaced by the Pomeranian, Pekinese,
and Japanese Spaniels. This brings us back to the adage that "every
dog has his day." So with the Dachshund, yet the classes at the London
shows are always well filled. The Terrier-type of Hound is usually
smaller and built upon lighter lines. The legs are not so crooked, the
head shorter, so are the ears.
In weight they are from 10 to 16 lbs. or thereabout.
The so-called Toy Dachshund or Spiel Dachs are a diminutive production
of the smallest Terrier-type of the variety, but not specially sought
after, at least in this country.
In England Dachshunds are but rarely used for sporting purposes, but in
Germany they are largely employed for hunting the fox in his home.
These little dogs can go into the earth after any fox, and are not
long in giving tongue when Reynard is in the ground, and if several of
these little dogs are at work on one fox they are not long in causing
him to bolt, or settle the dispute by underground combat. With the
badger--always a formidable antagonist--these little dogs are said to
be equally game, usually fighting to a finish. A few sportsmen have
made use of Dachshunds for driving rabbits out of cover, but they have
no particular qualification in this respect, and are decidedly inferior
to the Beagle, or a pack of Beagles for this purpose.
It is a variety of dog not the easiest to rear, distemper being, as in
most other breeds, accountable for the high mortality amongst them.
The colour of Dachshunds varies considerably, but the chief ones are,
deep red, chocolate and tan, fallow-red, black-and-tan, and dapple.
White on the body is objectionable, less so on the feet.
The so-called "Tiger Dachs," or steel-blue and tan-colour is uncommon,
though it gives the animal a very handsome appearance. At the London
Kennel Club shows there is a class for dappled dogs and bitches. As a
rule, the crossing of a black-and-tan Dachs with a red one, produces
puppies true to type, _i.e._, some are black and tan, others red, and
not a mixture of these two colours. A red dog and bitch, will, however,
sometimes throw a black-and-tan puppy; or a black-and-tan sire and dam
produce a whole-red puppy. This is precisely what happens with certain
other varieties.
There are really three varieties of coat, viz.:--
(_a_) The Smooth.
(_b_) The Rough.
(_c_) Wire-haired.
The coat should be short and thick and the skin remarkably loose--a
characteristic feature of the breed, and one that undoubtedly affords
the animal a degree of protection during combat.
_Head._--This is distinctly wedge-shaped and large in proportion to the
size of the animal. Jaws strong.
_Nose._--Black or Dudley (flesh) coloured. A red dog may have a black
nose.
_Eyes._--Well apart, with brown or black iris.
_Ears._--These ought to be long, thin, covered by silky short hair and
free from scales.
_Neck._--Short and thick.
_Chest._--Wide and deep, almost touching ground.
_Shoulders._--The shoulders are very prominent and heavily clad with
muscle, giving the dog a square appearance in front. A long body and
well-rounded ribs are essentials.
_Legs, Feet and Toes._--Most important. The forearm should be short
and thick, running inwards so as to form almost right angles with the
parts below. At the wrists or knees the parts touch each other and
almost immediately bend outwards (splay-feet), as long, flat paws.
These latter ought to be large and shovel-shaped, bearing long, strong,
slightly-hooked claws of a black or brown colour, a white claw (as in
Pugs) being objectionable. The more the "crook" the better. This, with
well-rounded ribs and a long body, constitutes one of the chief points
in a Dachshund, giving it a well-let-down appearance, but not too low.
_Hind-quarters._--Strength in this region is of great importance,
the croup being well-rounded and the thighs strong. The loins must be
well arched. The tail thick and tapering, and carried like that of the
Foxhound under excitement. It must not curl over the back, this being
one of the worst faults a Dachshund can have.
From 17 to 22 lbs. is the average weight of dogs in fair condition.
The Dachshund Club, and the Northern Dachshund Association, are the two
principal societies, in this country, presiding over the interests of
the breed.
The service of A1 stud dogs can be had at fees from two to four
guineas, and excellent youngsters obtained from three to ten or twelve
guineas.
The Basset-hound
This is said to be a very ancient variety of dog, having existed in
France for several centuries. In France the term "Basset" is frequently
employed to indicate any crooked-legged variety of dog, being
synonymous with the English word "Terrier" and the German "Dachs."
Consequently the word "Basset," when applied to a dog in France, may
become a very ambiguous one. There are Rough and Smooth-coated strains
of Basset-hounds, but the Smooth-coated are the most popular varieties,
and most of the Hounds shown at the Kennel Club shows are of the
Smooth-coated variety, although this useful canine body provides a
class for Rough-coated ones in addition. The Smooth-coated Basset had
his origin in the province of Artois, whilst the Rough-coated variety
came from Flanders. Although there are the crooked, half-crooked, and
straight-legged Bassets in both Rough and Smooth coats, the only one of
interest in this country is that having the full-crook of leg.
The late Mr Everett Millais brought the breed into prominence in
England in 1874, through the importation of a famous Basset, called
Model.
He purchased this hound at the Jardin d'Acclimation in Paris.
This animal was the foundation-stone of the Basset as he appears in
England at the present day.
The late Mr G. R. Krehl did much towards the improvement of the breed,
and later, many other enthusiastic admirers, none more so than Mrs
Tottie.
The scenting powers of these dogs are said to be exceptional, and many
prefer them to Beagles for rabbiting, their deep, clear musical notes
telling one exactly of their whereabouts. Most of these Hounds are
exceedingly sweet-tempered, though rather troublesome to rear.
In height they are from 9 to 12 inches at shoulder, but 12 inches is a
desirable height, and about 40 lbs. weight.
_Colour._--The most popular one is the tricolour, viz., white body with
black markings and a tan-coloured head. Many varieties of white and
black and tan.
_Coat._--Glossy, smooth and close, but the hair must be hard enough to
make the jacket fairly waterproof.
_Head._--Taken as a whole in the Smooth-coated variety, the head has
the expression not unlike that of a Bloodhound, chiefly owing to the
high peak, deeply-set eyes, exposed "haw" and close carriage of the
ears at their set-on. This expression of face is, however, overshadowed
in the Rough-coated variety, the Airedale or Otterhound being more in
evidence in this region.
In the Smooth-coated variety there is often a very weird expression on
the face, and one that betokens a good-natured animal. Head must be
long, have a good peak (no "stop"), and be rather narrow, but no snipy
appearance. A typical head and ears, a good front and long body are,
in short, the principal beauties of the Basset, and points of vital
importance in judging the breed. A black nose, strong teeth, good long
cheeks (flews as they are called), and a long, strong jaw with large,
long, velvety ears, complete the beauties in the region of the head.
[Illustration: MR PROCTOR'S BASSET-HOUND BITCH QUEEN OF THE GEISHA.]
[Illustration:
[_Fall, Photographer._
A BRACE OF TYPICAL SMOOTH-COATED BASSET-HOUNDS (Property of Mrs
LUBBOCK, Farnborough).]
[Illustration: SMOOTH-COATED BASSET-HOUND BITCH AND HER PUPPIES.]
[Illustration: SMOOTH BASSET-HOUND DOG CHAMPION LOUIS LE BEAU. Died
1902. A veritable pillar of the Stud Book (Property of Mrs TOTTIE).]
[Illustration: TYPICAL SMOOTH-COATED BASSET BITCH. (Note the perfection
of facial expression).]
[Illustration: A GROUP OF CHAMPION SMOOTH-COATED BASSETS.]
[Illustration:
[_Horner, Photographer, Settle._
TYPICAL ROUGH BASSET BITCH (Bred by Mrs TOTTIE).]
[Illustration:
[_Horner, Photographer, Settle._
ROUGH-COATED BASSET-HOUND DOG CHAMPION PURITAN.]
_Fore-quarters and Chest._--Viewed from the front and in profile, this
region is powerfully built, the chest nearly touching the ground,
the shoulders short and muscular, arm very short, with a short,
stoutly-made forearm, turning in at the knee. From the wrist (knee) the
parts below turn outwards, so as to give the Hound a very splay-footed
appearance.
[Illustration: TYPICAL ROUGH-COATED BASSET DOG.]
The back is long, somewhat hollow, rising slightly at the loins to the
top of the croup, and from this very powerful muscles should spring.
Weak hind-quarters are a serious defect. Well-rounded ribs and plenty
of loose skin, especially over the tops of the shoulders and back, are
desirable qualifications for the show ring.
Our illustration represents one of the most typical Basset-hound
bitches ever seen.
_Club._--The Basset Society.
RULES OF THE BASSET-HOUND CLUB.
1. That the name of this Club be "The Basset-hound Club."
2. That the objects of the Club be to promote the breeding of pure
Smooth-coated and Rough-coated Basset-hounds, to define precisely, and
publish a description of the true type; to urge the adoption of such
type on breeders, exhibitors, judges, dog-show committees and others,
as the only recognised and unvarying standard by which Basset-hounds
should be judged, and which may in future be uniformly accepted as the
standard of excellence in breeding, and in awarding prizes of merit in
Basset-hounds: and by giving prizes, supporting and originating shows,
and taking other steps to do all in its power to protect and advance
the interests of the breed.
3. That the Club compile a correct Stud Book for dogs and bitches,
containing the names and pedigrees, as far as can be ascertained,
of all pure-bred Basset-hounds, and keep a register of the birth of
pure-bred Basset-hounds.
4. That in the event of a Hound winning a prize under the Kennel Club
Rules, whose pedigree does not agree with the Basset-hound Club Stud
Book, the same shall be objected to on behalf of the Club by the Hon.
Sec., with a view to the investigation of its correctness, but in any
case the Club Special which may go into the prizes shall be withheld.
5. That the Club consist of unlimited number of Members, whose names
and addresses shall be entered in a book to be kept by the Secretary,
which book shall be open for inspection at reasonable times. That any
respectable person favourable to the object of the Club be eligible for
Membership, except professional dealers. That ladies be eligible for
Membership.
6. That each candidate for admission be proposed by one Member of the
Club personally known to him, and seconded by another, also personally
known to him. That the first twenty Members be original members.
7. That the Annual Subscription be two guineas. That the Annual
Subscription be due on 1st January of each year, and that any Member
failing to pay his Subscription before 31st January have notice given
him by the Treasurer; and if his Subscription be still unpaid on 31st
March, his rights of Membership shall cease until he has paid his
Subscription which is in arrear, and he shall render himself liable
to be struck off the list of Members of the Club, unless he can give
a satisfactory explanation to the Committee. That the liability of
Members shall be limited to their Entrance Fee and Annual Subscription.
8. That the Club offer no prizes or cups at any show not held under
the Kennel Club Rules, except at such other shows as the Committee or
Sub-Committee may especially approve.
9. That the affairs of the Club shall be managed by a Committee of
eight or a Sub-Committee of three, including a Treasurer and Secretary.
Three shall form a quorum. That the Committee and Sub-Committee shall
retire annually, but shall be eligible for re-election. That the
Election of Members to serve on Committee and Sub-Committee be held
Annually.
10. That the election of Members shall be made by ballot of Committee
or Sub-Committee, two black balls to exclude. That the election of a
Member shall be at once notified to him by the Secretary, and the
Member shall at once be liable for his Entrance Fee and Subscription
for the current year.
11. That the Committee or Sub-Committee meet at least twice a year, and
that they have full power to transact all business relating to the Club
which they may think fit; to make necessary bye-laws, to arbitrate in
disputed matters, to refuse admission to the Club, to decide upon the
value and nature of the prizes to be offered at the various shows, and
to deal with any question not provided for by these Rules. That seven
days' notice must be given of Committee Meetings.
12. That any Member of the Club who shall be proved to the satisfaction
of the Committee or Sub-Committee to have in any way misconducted
himself in connection with Dogs or Dogs Shows, or to have in any
way acted in opposition to the Rules and principles upon which the
Club has been established, or in any other manner which would make
it undesirable that he should continue to be a member, be expelled
from the Club. That such Member shall have no claim against the Club.
That the Committee or Sub-Committee may report the expulsion of such
Member to the Kennel Club with a view to his being disqualified from
exhibiting at any show held under the Kennel Club Rules, and from
competing for prizes or cups offered by this Club or the Kennel Club.
13. That there be one General Meeting of the Club each year, to be held
at such time as may be found suitable by the Committee or Sub-Committee.
14. That an Extraordinary General Meeting may be convened by the
Secretary. That such Extraordinary General Meeting shall have power
only to deal with the objects for which it was called.
15. That all Minutes of Meetings be read at the commencement of, and be
approved and confirmed by, the next subsequent Meeting.
16. That all expenses incurred by the Treasurer or Secretary for or on
behalf of the Club be defrayed out of the funds of the Club.
17. That an Annual Report, the names of the Members and Officers, and
the Annual Statement of Accounts (duly audited by two Members of the
Committee) be printed, and supplied to each Member not later than 11th
February in each year.
18. That no new Rule, or alteration of existing Rules, or reversal of
any former act or decision, shall ever be made without a fortnight's
notice being given previously in writing to all Members, and without
the sanction of at least two-thirds of the Members present. That it
shall be competent for any Member unable to attend the Meeting to
record, by letter to the Secretary, his opinion to be read at the
Meeting, such opinion to be entered in the minutes.
19. That it be competent for any Member to withdraw from the Club on
giving notice to the Secretary before 11th December (such Member to
have no claim on the Club); provided always that such Member shall be
liable for his subscription to the Club for the current year in which
he gives such notice.
20. That every Member bring to the notice of the Club Committee any
apparent dishonesty at Dog Shows, &c., against which the Club may
publish a formal protest.
21. That the Club shall, if possible, hold a special Basset-hound
Exhibition, at least once in each year, either confined to members of
the Club, or open, as the Committee or Sub-Committee may determine.
That the judges at this exhibition be appointed solely by the Club,
and that the dogs be judged according to the standard of excellence as
defined by the Club.
22. That at other shows, not held or managed by the Club, prizes,
cups, or certificates of merit may be provided by the Club for the
competition in Basset-hound classes, where these classes are judged by
judges appointed or approved by the Club, and according to the standard
of excellence adopted by the Club.
23. That a list of Members competent and willing to act as judges of
Basset-hounds be annually made by the Committee or Sub-Committee, and
the Secretary shall, on the application of the Committee, Secretary,
&c., of any Dog Show, send a copy of such list, and arrange with the
gentlemen chosen to act as judges at such show; the expenses to be
borne by the show at which the judges officiate.
24. That the judges shall not exhibit at, or be interested either
directly or indirectly in, any show at which they officiate.
25. That at all shows at which the Club offers prizes or cups, the name
of the judge shall be, prior to the date of closing of the entries for
such show, submitted to the Secretary of the Club, for the approval of
the Committee.
26. That Members may vote by proxy at the General Meeting, such proxies
to be sent to the Secretary or Treasurer at least forty-eight hours
before the time of Meeting.
27. In the above Rules the word "dog" shall mean both sexes.
28. That the payment of his Subscription by any Member shall imply his
full acquiescence in the above Rules.
POINTS OF BASSET-HOUND (SMOOTH)
Head, skull, eyes, muzzle, and flews 15
Ears 15
Neck, dewlap, chest and shoulders 10
Forelegs and feet 15
Back, loins and hind-quarters 10
Stern 5
Coat and skin 10
Colour and markings 15
"Basset character" and symmetry 5
----
Total 100
_General Appearance_
1. To begin with, the _head_ is the most distinguishing part of all
breeds. The head of the Basset-hound is most perfect when it closest
resembles a Bloodhound's. It is long and narrow, with heavy flews,
occiput prominent, "la bosse de la chasse," and forehead wrinkled
to the eyes, which should be kind, and show the haw. The general
appearance of the head must present high breeding and reposeful
dignity; the teeth are small, and the upper jaw sometimes protrudes.
This is not a fault, and is called the "bec de lievre."
2. The _ears_ are very long, and when drawn forward folding well over
the nose--so long, that in hunting they will often actually tread on
them; they are set on low, and hang loose in folds like drapery, the
ends inward curling, in texture thin and velvety.
3. The _neck_ is powerful, with heavy dewlaps. Elbows must not turn
out. The chest is deep, full, and framed like a "man-of-war." Body long
and low.
4. _Forelegs_ short, about 4 inches, and close-fitting to the chest
till the crooked knee, from where the wrinkled ankle ends in a massive
paw, each toe standing out distinctly.
5. The _stifles_ are bent, and the quarters full of muscle, which
stands out, so that when one looks at the dog from behind it gives him
a round barrel-like effect. This, with their peculiar waddling gait,
goes a long way towards Basset character--a quality easily recognised
by the judge, and as desirable as Terrier character in a Terrier.
6. The _stern_ is coarse underneath, and carried Hound-fashion.
7. The _coat_ is short, smooth and fine, and has a gloss on it
like that of a racehorse. (To get this appearance, they should be
hound-gloved, never brushed.) Skin loose and elastic.
8. The _colour_ should be black, white and tan; the head, shoulders,
and quarters a rich tan, and black patches on the back. They are also
sometimes hare-pied.
POINTS OF THE BASSET-HOUND (ROUGH)
Head and ears 20
Body, including hind-quarters 35
Legs and feet 20
Coat 15
"Basset character," etc 10
----
Total 100
_General Appearance_
1. The _head_ should be large, the skull narrow but of good length, the
peak well developed. The muzzle should be strong, and the jaws long and
powerful: a snipy muzzle and weakness of jaw are objectionable. The
eyes should be dark and not prominent. The ears should be set on low,
of good length and fine texture.
2. The _neck_ should be strong, of good length and muscular, set on
sloping shoulders.
3. The _body_ should be massive, of good length and well ribbed up, any
weakness or slackness of loin being a bad fault. The chest should be
large and very deep, the sternum prominent.
4. The _forelegs_ should be short and very powerful, very heavy in
bone, either half-crooked or nearly straight. The elbows should lie
against the sides of the chest, and should not turn out.
5. _Hind-quarters_ should be powerful and muscular, the hind-legs
should be rather longer than the forelegs, and should be well bent at
the stifles.
6. _Stern_ of moderate length and carried gaily, should be set on high.
7. _Coat._--An extremely important point. It should be profuse, thick
and harsh to the touch, with a dense undercoat. The coat may be wavy.
8. _Colour._--Any recognised Hound colour.
9. _Weight._--Dogs, from 40 to 50 lbs., bitches rather less.
The Rough Basset should appear a very powerful Hound for his size, on
short, strong legs. Body massive and a good length, without slackness
of loin. The feet should be thick, well padded and not open. The
expression should be kindly and intelligent. Any unsoundness should
disqualify the Hound.
[Illustration]
SECTION E
=Fox Terriers=
CHAPTER XII
SMOOTH-COATED
WIRE-HAIRED
CLUB RULES
CHAPTER XII
=The Fox Terrier=
[Illustration]
These Terriers have been for a number of years, and still are,
exceedingly popular, chiefly, we believe on account of the following
reasons:--(1) Their size renders them easily and conveniently kept;
(2) their gameness makes them good for destroying vermin, such as
rats, etc.; (3) making excellent house dogs, and are smart, active
companions, and as such suitable for both sexes.
At most shows the Fox Terrier classes are better filled than those
devoted to any other variety.
There is very little reliable information as to how and when the
Fox Terrier sprang into existence, as it is hundreds of years since
Terriers were written about, though very little can be gleaned, as the
word at that time had a very ambiguous meaning, consequently most of
such records become speculative when discussing the probable origin of
any given type of Terrier.
Rawdon B. Lee, in his book on the Fox Terrier, gives numerous extracts
from various ancient writers with reference to the early history of the
Fox Terrier, but the information leaves one very little wiser, upon the
earlier history of these game little Terriers. It is a problem that
bears every possibility of remaining unsolved.
For the present purpose it is sufficient to know that the breed is with
us in a very high state of perfection, and that this has been attained
by selection within the last fifty years, or thereabout.
Whether these Terriers, as we find them on the show bench, are equal to
the tasks usually imposed upon their predecessors, is another matter,
and one that Fox Terrier men, in general, are not always inclined to
discuss.
That there are any amount of game Fox Terriers on the show bench there
is abundant evidence to prove, but we have no knowledge as to whether
these constitute the majority.
[Illustration: MR SCOTT'S SMOOTH FOX TERRIER MILLGATE JOF.]
[Illustration: CHAMPION SOUTH CAVE LEGER (Property of Mr A. JOWETT).]
[Illustration: SMOOTH FOX TERRIER DUKE OF DONCASTER (Property of Mrs
BENNETT EDWARDS).]
The Fox Terrier Club, the Fylde Fox Terrier Club, and Fox Terrier
clubs galore in other parts of the country have done wonders towards
improving the show-bench qualities of the modern Fox Terrier, and still
more to render him popular in almost all parts of the globe.
There are two varieties--the Smooth and the Wire-haired, but of the
two the Smooth are in greater demand, requiring much less attention to
their toilet.
Fox Terriers are very easy to rear, are hardy, usually of good
constitution, pleasant in the house, though not always reliable with
children, more especially under provocation.
Puppies should be docked when they are two or three weeks old, and
weaned about the fifth week. Before showing, we recommend washing on
the previous day, adding a little blue to the water. Hard coats are
greatly softened by washing.
The Fox Terrier Club's description leaving little to be desired as to
the show points of the Terrier, the author has taken the liberty of
reproducing it as issued by that body.
STANDARD OF POINTS RECOMMENDED BY THE FOX TERRIER CLUB
_Head and Ears_ (value 15).--The skull should be flat and moderately
narrow, and gradually decreasing in width to the eyes. Not much "stop"
should be apparent, but there should be more dip in the profile between
the forehead and top jaw than is seen in the case of a Greyhound.
The cheeks must not be full.
The ears should be V-shaped and small, of moderate thickness, and
dropping forward close to the cheek, not hanging by the side of the
head like those of a Foxhound.
The jaw, upper and under, should be strong and muscular; should be
of fair punishing strength, but not so in any way to resemble the
Greyhound or modern English Terrier. There should not be much falling
away below the eyes. This part of the head should, however, be
moderately chiselled out, so as not to go down in a straight line like
a wedge.
The nose, towards which the muzzle must gradually taper, should be
black.
The eyes should be dark in colour, small, and rather deep-set, full of
fire, life, and intelligence; as nearly as possible circular in shape.
The teeth should be as nearly as possible level, I.E., the upper teeth
on the outside of the lower teeth.
_Neck_ (value 5).--The neck should be clean and muscular, without
throatiness, of fair length, and gradually widening to the shoulders.
[Illustration: SMOOTH FOX TERRIER CHAMPION CYMRO QUEEN (Property of Mr
A. JOWETT).]
[Illustration: MISS LEWIS'S WIRE-HAIRED FOX TERRIER CHAMPION DONINGTON
VENTURE.]
[Illustration: MR SCOTT'S SMOOTH FOX TERRIER MILLGATE BANDIT.]
_Shoulders and Chest_ (value 10).--The shoulders should be long and
sloping, well laid back, fine at the points, and clearly cut at the
withers.
The chest deep and not broad.
_Back and Loin_ (value 10).--The back should be short, straight, and
strong, with no appearance of slackness.
The loin should be powerful and very slightly arched. The fore-ribs
moderately arched, the back-ribs deep, and the dog well ribbed up.
_Hind-quarters_ (value 15).--Should be strong and muscular, quite
free from droop or crouch; the thighs long and powerful; hocks near
the ground, the dog standing well up on them like a Foxhound, and not
straight in the stifle.
_Stern_ (value 5).--Should be set on rather high and carried gaily, but
not over the back or curled. It should be of good strength, anything
approaching a "pipe-stopper" tail being especially objectionable.
_Legs and Feet_ (value 15).--The legs viewed in any direction must
be straight, showing little or no appearance of an ankle in front.
They should be strong in bone throughout, short and straight to
pastern. Both fore-and hind-legs should be carried straight forward in
travelling, the stifles not turned outwards. The elbows should hang
perpendicular to the body, working free of the sides. The feet should
be round, compact, and not large, the soles hard and tough, the toes
moderately arched, and turned neither in nor out.
_Coat_ (value 10).--Should be straight, flat, smooth, hard, dense, and
abundant. The belly and under side of the thighs should not be bare.
As regards colour, white should predominate, brindle red, or liver
markings are objectionable. Otherwise this point is of little or no
importance.
_Symmetry, Size, and Character_ (value 15).--The dog must present a
general gay, lively, and active appearance; bone and strength in a
small compass are essentials, but this must not be taken to mean that a
Fox Terrier should be cloddy, or in any way coarse--speed and endurance
must be looked to as well as power, and the symmetry of the Foxhound
taken as a model. The Terrier, like the Hound, must on no account be
leggy, nor must he be too short in the leg. He should stand like a
cleanly-made hunter, covering a lot of ground, yet with a short back
as before stated. He will then attain the highest degree of propelling
power, together with the greatest length of strides that is compatible
with the length of his body. Weight is not a certain criterion of a
Terrier's fitness for his work--general shape, size, and contour are
the main points, and if a dog can gallop and stay, and follow his
fox up a drain, it matters little what his weight is to a pound or
so--though, roughly speaking, it may be said he should not scale over
20 lbs. in show condition.
[Illustration:
[_Photo by Reveley, Wantage._
SMOOTH FOX TERRIER DOG CHAMPION DUKEDOM (Property of Mr REDMOND).]
[Illustration:
[_Photo by Reveley, Wantage._
SMOOTH FOX TERRIER DOG, DARLEY DALE (Property of Mr REDMOND).]
[Illustration: WIRE-HAIRED FOX TERRIER DOG, REMUS OF GAYWOOD (Property
of Mr WEAVER).]
[Illustration: MR SCOTT'S WIRE-HAIRED FOX TERRIER MILLGATE LEADER.]
Rough Fox Terrier
This variety of the breed should resemble the Smooth sort in every
respect except the coat, which should be broken. The harder and more
wiry the texture of the coat is the better. On no account should the
dog look or feel woolly, and there should be no silky hair about the
poll or elsewhere. The coat should not be too long, so as to give a dog
a shaggy appearance, but at the same time it should show a marked and
distinct difference all over from the Smooth species.
SCALE OF POINTS
Head and ears 15
Neck 5
Shoulders and chest 10
Back and loins 10
Hind-quarters 15
Stern 5
Legs and feet 15
Coat 10
Symmetry, size, and character 15
----
100
DISQUALIFYING POINTS
Nose.--White, cherry, or spotted to a considerable extent with either
of these colours.
Ears.--Prick, tulip, or rose.
Mouth.--Much undershot or much overshot.
SECTION F
CHAPTER XIII
=Terriers=
SKYE TERRIERS
BEDLINGTON TERRIERS
SCOTTISH TERRIERS
IRISH TERRIERS
AIREDALE TERRIERS
WHITE WEST HIGHLAND TERRIER
(POLTALLOCH TERRIER)
WELSH TERRIERS
DANDIE-DINMONTS
CHAPTER XIII
=The Skye Terrier=
These little Terriers are natives of the Island of Skye and adjoining
coast, though by what means the breed was originally produced there
does not appear to be any accurate data to go upon. The Skye is the
only truly long-coated Sporting Terrier in Great Britain, cross-bred
dogs excepted.
The introduction of this long coat into a Terrier--dogs originally bred
for rough-and-tumble work, can hardly have been advantageous, and the
remarkably profuse coats of typical specimens in the present day is
absolutely detrimental for work; moreover, it requires very careful
grooming to keep the coat in a perfect state, though the texture of the
hair being much harder than the silky coat of the Yorkshire Toy, gives
less trouble than the last named.
Skyes are divided into "drop"-eared, and "prick"-eared, the chief
differences being the carriage of the ears and tail. The drop-eared
has a little longer and softer coat, longer body, and slightly smaller
head; in all other respects they are practically the same. They are
generally very game little Terriers, and will hold their own, weight
for weight, in combat with any dog. Are good companions; of good
constitution, and not given to quarrelling, unless interfered with.
Many indifferent specimens of the breed are remarkably clever for
destroying vermin, and take to water without the slightest trouble.
In colour the Skye should be a steel-grey or blue, silver-grey, or
fawn. If fawn, black or dark-brown tipped, and if silver-grey, black
tipped.
The coat is a very important matter; taken along with the head it
constitutes thirty-five per cent. value in point judging.
For the show bench, the outer coat must be long, in fact, reaching to
the ground. For work, this is objectionable. Better to be of medium
length, and this is the sort of coat that judges will do well to plump
for. The outer coat to be of hard texture; straight, and long, and
the under coat close and woolly. The long hair on the head almost
completely conceals the sharp brown or hazel-coloured eyes.
A thick, soft, woolly undercoat affords the most perfect protection
against wet to the skin, and supports the outer coat, as in
Rough-coated Collies. Both limbs and tail must be well feathered in the
case of show dogs, but for work, too much hair in these regions is a
nuisance.
[Illustration: TYPICAL PRICK-EARED SKYE TERRIER DOG (Property of Miss
M'CHEANE).]
In drop-eared Skyes a low carriage of tail is desirable, but in the
prick-eared variety on a level with the back.
The hair down the spinal column has a parting in it, causing the coat
to hang, in curtain-like fashion, from head to tail.
_Head._--This should be long, rather wide between the eyes, flat on
the skull, and narrow between ears. Nose black, and hard palate black,
or nearly so. Ears about 2 inches, and lying close to cheeks. If
prick-eared, to be well up, and inclined forward.
Body long, and ribs well rounded. The back ought to be fairly level,
rising at the croup.
Legs, short and strong, having round feet, well covered with hair.
_Weight._--From 16 to 20 lbs.
_Faults._--Short back, faulty carriage of ears, thin coat, too short
coat, legginess, bad carriage of tail, bad colour, too light, etc.
_Club._--Skye Terrier.
_Prices._--Typical puppies, at six or eight weeks, can be bought at
prices ranging from four to twelve guineas, but it is advisable to
purchase Skyes when they are older, as one is then in a better position
to speculate--for such it is--as to the probable subsequent value, for
the show bench.
=The Bedlington Terrier=
This breed of Terrier has certain features distinct from that of all
others, and originated, so far as we are able to glean, in the county
of Northumberland, over a century since.
William and James Allan appear to have had a great deal to do with
laying foundation-stone of this variety of Terrier.
It is said that James Allan lived in a gipsy camp about the year
1730, in the Rothbury Forest, and that his father, William, was famed
for other hunting Terriers, which were then known under the title of
Rodbury, or Rothbury Terriers.
During 1825 a stone mason, to name Tom Ainsley, had a dog that he
called Young Piper, and through his residence in the locality of
Bedlington (near Newcastle), the present breed derived its name.
The dam of Piper was black, with brindled legs, and light-coloured hair
on the top, and she weighed about 14 lbs. and the sire was about the
same weight, liver-coloured, with a somewhat hard texture of hair.
Bedlingtons are very game dogs, and will generally tackle anything
their own weight.
[Illustration: BEDLINGTON TERRIER DOG (Mr H. WARNES).]
They make good watch-dogs, and are capital "ratters," etc. Many
cross-bred Terriers--and game ones too, have a considerable proportion
of Bedlington blood in them. Their chief points are as follows:--
_Height._--About 15 inches.
_Weight._--22 to 24 lbs.
_Colour._--Sandy, liver, dark blue, blue and tan, liver and tan.
_Nose._--If dark blue, or blue and tan, the nose should be black, but
when liver-coloured, sandy, or liver and tan, then the nose ought to
correspond, being either liver, or flesh-coloured.
_Coat._--Hard in texture, standing well off the body. A great deal of
trimming is necessary to get Bedlingtons fit for the show bench.
_Skull._--Narrow, but should have a good dome on it, with a silky
"top-knot" or "crown." From the eyes to nose, face ought to be long,
and rather narrow.
The jaw to be long and the lips tight-fitting, free from flew. Strong,
level teeth.
Small, deeply-sunk, keen-looking eyes, moderate-sized ears, carried
flat on cheeks, and covered with soft hair, are typical of the
Bedlington.
The neck should be long, well set up, and strongly muscled.
_Body._--This is moderately long, deep at the chest, and slender at the
waist.
_Tail._--Long, tapering, thick at "set-on," feathered on under
surface, and the carriage of it reminds one, somewhat of the Setter.
_Limbs and Quarters._--To be of medium length, straight and strong.
_Club._--The Bedlington Terrier.
=The Scottish Terrier=
[Illustration]
Sometimes spoken of as the "Die-hard," a name said to have been given
to them by George, Earl of Dumbarton, owing to the pluck of a pack
owned by him.
The title is certainly not a misnomer, these little Terriers of
Highland descent still having the gameness of their ancestors, though
many of them at the present time are only used as ladies' companions.
The terms "Aberdeen" and "Scottish" Terrier are--or should
be--synonymous, though an inferior specimen of a "Scottie" has, and is,
frequently sold to the unwary as an "Aberdeen." Another name is that
of "Cairn" Terrier, which speaks for itself, these dogs having been
expressly bred for hunting in the cairns, or spaces amongst heaps of
rocks, etc.
[Illustration: SCOTTISH TERRIER DOG CHAMPION HYNDMAN THISTLE.]
[Illustration: A TRIO OF SCOTTISH TERRIERS (Property of Mr
M'CANDLISH).]
Owing to their small size, they are admirably adapted for such
purposes. Some will retrieve and take well to water; are good
companions, and active house dogs. They are very hardy, consequently
puppies are not difficult to rear, and fair specimens of the last-named
can be had at two and three guineas apiece.
The following are the chief points of the Scottish Terrier.
_Coat._--In point judging, 20 per cent. of the marks are allotted to
the coat--so many are faulty in this respect. Outer coat must be very
thick, short, and of a hard or wiry texture, and absolutely free from
any sign of curl, or waviness.
Hair, 2 or 3 inches in length. Under coat, very dense.
The so-called "open" coat is a fault. The term is sufficiently
explanatory.
_Weight._--From 14 to 20 lbs. for dogs and a few pounds less for
bitches.
_Colour._--Not of great importance, but white markings are
objectionable; less important on the breast, but better without any
white hairs.
White specimens are rare.
Brindle, black, red, mustard, and iron-grey, are the usual colours,
the black and brindle shades being preferred.
_Body._--Important (value 10). This should be short, so as to give the
dog a sturdy, compact appearance.
Some Scotties are too long in the body.
_Neck._--To be short and thick, ending in good, strong, sloping
shoulders.
_Chest._--Deep, well-rounded on to the shoulders, and plump.
_Limbs and Feet._--Legs, short, big-boned, well-muscled, straight,
though generally turned out at ankles, ending in large fore feet, and
smaller well-padded hind ones. The same hard hairs should clothe the
limbs. If soft, it is a fault.
_Ears._--Erect, or semi (half) erect. Must never "droop" at tips.
Should be covered with short hair.
Particular attention is paid by judges to the carriage of the ears of
the Scottie.
_Eyes._--To be either dark brown or hazel, giving a lively expression
to the face.
_Head._--Rather long, and wide above the eyes. Most of the length is
gained from eyes to nose.
Hair to be hard and short (not soft).
_Muzzle._--Long, tapering, and very strong.
Sound teeth--exceptionally large--and tight lips are a _sine qua non_.
[Illustration: GROUP OF SCOTTISH TERRIERS (Property of Mr
M'CANDLISH).]
_Height._--9 to 12 inches.
_Clubs._--1. The English Scottish Terrier Society; 2. Scotch Scottish
Terrier Society.
=The Irish Terrier=
This is unquestionably a very ancient variety of dog, indigenous to the
Emerald Isle, in certain features being a modification of the Wolfhound
of that country.
Practically, there is no history of the breed, its origin being
involved in obscurity.
Ballymena and County Wicklow are said to have been the chief
birth-places of these Terriers. Although but a speculative statement at
its best, it is a very probable one, and in accordance with what one
knows of the history of many other breeds. More recent history of the
breed may be said to date from about 1875, marked by their appearance
on the show bench in Ireland and the following year in England. They
are excellent vermin Terriers, very affectionate to those to whom they
become attached, and, as a rule, exceedingly good-tempered. Their dash
and pluck has earned for them the _sobriquet_ of "Dare-devils," as in
the case of the Scottish Terrier--"Die-hards."
These Terriers should have a black nose, strong and level teeth, small
hazel-coloured eyes, small V-shaped ears, directed forwards, so as
to fall closely to the sides of the head, free from feather, and the
hair on them of darker shade than the rest of the body. A Dudley (red)
nose will disqualify. The head long, like that of a Fox Terrier, the
skull flat, and from the lower jaw there should be rather longer hairs,
forming a sort of beard--a characteristic feature of the Dare-devil. A
good punishing lower jaw is essential. The head, jaws, teeth, and eyes
constitute fifteen per cent. of value in the Irish Terrier Club's scale
of points, only equalled by that of the coat.
_Coat._--Straight and flat, free from any curl, and of hard or wiry
texture.
A soft coat very detrimental, as in the Wire-haired and Scottish
Terriers. If the hair of an Irish Terrier is too long, he loses the
contour of body, and this ought not to be so.
_Colour._--Bright red is much preferred. Some are yellowish-red, others
yellow, wheaten and grey.
Brindle will disqualify, and white on feet is a fault, less
detrimental, in the judge's eye, when on the chest, but, as in nearly
every other breed, Irishmen are better without any white hair.
_Neck._--To be of moderate length, carried well up, having a slight
frill on either side of it, and ending in strong shoulders, of good
shape, with a chest of medium width.
[Illustration: IRISH TERRIER BLACKBROOK BANKER.]
[Illustration: AIREDALE TERRIER DOG.]
_Body._--The Irish Terrier has rather a long body, due, in part at
least, to the rather narrow--though very muscular--upper part of the
thighs, increasing the flank area. In this region the breed is somewhat
shallow. Strong loins and the so-called "gay" carriage of tail is
requisite. Dock not too short.
_Limbs and Feet._--Must be free from feather. Feet small, compact, and
black toe nails. Forearms of medium length, straight, with plenty of
bone and muscle.
Many Irishmen have very poor fore-limbs, either too long, bent, or weak.
Must be well set up in front, and free movers in both fore-and
hind-limbs.
_Weight._--About 20 lbs., a few pounds more or less being unimportant.
_Club._--The Irish Terrier.
_Prices._--First-rate puppies can be got at three and four guineas each.
=The Airedale Terrier=
This useful variety of dog first of all appears to have sprung up in
the districts of Saltaire, Bingley, Shipley Glen, Keighley, etc., in
Yorkshire, and it is to the credit of Yorkshiremen for having produced
a most useful variety of Terrier. Few other breeds can surpass, or
even equal, the gameness, docility, and general usefulness of these
rough-and-ready, companionable Terriers.
In appearance, it would hardly be correct to speak of the Airedale
as being handsome, but the weird expression upon the face, and
thoughtful-looking eyes offer an irresistible charm to those who are
fond of a really good pal, and inexpensive forms of sport, such as
ratting, etc., on river-banks, and the like used to be called Waterside
Terriers.
When looking at many of the larger Airedales, one can hardly help
thinking but that the breed has been produced by crossing some Terrier,
_e.g._ Bedlington, etc., with an Otterhound. To this latter breed many
inferior specimens bear a strong resemblance, in appearance, habits,
and temperament.
If properly trained, an Airedale ought to take to water like a duck, be
obedient to his master's call, and form an unceasing attachment towards
him.
Typical specimens should have a rough or broken coat, dense and wiry,
free from curl--a common fault; be of a dark grizzle on the back from
top of skull to set on of tail, likewise on the sides of the body and
skull.
The remaining portions of the body ought to be a rich tan, the ears
being of a deeper tan than the rest.
The weight for dogs should be from about 40 to 45 lbs., and bitches 35
to 40 lbs.
[Illustration: AIREDALE TERRIER DOG CROMPTON MARVEL (Property of LEAVER
BROTHERS).]
Colour, coat, and head are very important points, and judges of the
breed lay great stress upon the "ideal" in these particulars.
Skull should be flat, of medium width, and show no "stop" when viewed
from the front; with square, long and strong jaws, bearing large and
level teeth, free from decay. Nose black, and nostrils full, V-shaped
ears, with Fox-Terrier carriage and small dark eyes.
Chest deep, of fair width (not wide); shoulders long, strong, and of
good slope; neck of medium length, with short, strong back, well-sprung
ribs and broad, muscular loins--the last two being specially desirable.
Fore-limbs well rounded, straight and strong, ending in round, thick
feet.
As to the hind-quarters, these ought to be well clothed with powerfully
developed muscles, the "dock" being set on high up and carried (when
excited) very like that of a Fox Terrier.
The chief disqualifying points of the Airedale are: a Dudley nose,
white feet, white on throat or face, and defective teeth, undershot,
etc.
Many Airedale Terriers are much too big, rendering them over cumbersome
for activity.
It is a variety of dog fairly easy to rear, and good specimens, during
puppyhood, can be bought at prices varying from two to five guineas.
_Clubs._--Airedale Terrier; South of England Airedale Terrier Club.
STANDARD OF THE AIREDALE TERRIER
_Airedale Terrier Club_
_Head._--Long, with flat skull, not too broad between the ears and
narrowing slightly to the eyes, free from wrinkle. "Stop" hardly
visible, and cheeks free from fulness. Jaw deep and powerful, well
filled up before the eyes, lips tight. Ears V-shaped, with a side
carriage, small but not out of proportion to the size of the dog. The
nose black. The eyes small, and dark in colour, not prominent, but full
of Terrier expression. The teeth strong and level.
_Neck._--Should be of moderate length and thickness, gradually widening
towards the shoulders and free from throatiness.
_Shoulders and Chest._--Shoulders long and sloping well into the back,
shoulder blades flat. Chest deep but not broad.
_Body._--Back short, strong and straight. Ribs well sprung.
_Hind-quarters._--Strong and muscular with no droop. Hocks well let
down. The tail set on high and carried gaily but not curled over the
back.
_Legs and Feet._--Legs perfectly straight with plenty of bone. Feet
small and round with a good depth of pad.
[Illustration: AIREDALE TERRIER DOG.]
_Coat._--Hard and wiry and not so long as to appear ragged, it should
also lie straight and close, covering the dog well all over the body
and legs.
_Colour._--The head and ears, with the exception of dark markings on
each side of the skull, should be tan, the ears being of a darker shade
than the rest. The legs up to the thighs and elbows being also tan. The
body black or dark grizzle.
_Size._--Dogs 40 lbs. to 45 lbs. weight. Bitches slightly less.
That as it is the unanimous opinion of the Airedale Terrier Club that
the size of the Airedale Terrier as given in the above Standard is one
of if not the most important characteristics of the breed, all Judges
who shall henceforth adjudicate on the merits of the Airedale Terrier
shall consider undersized specimens of the breed severely handicapped
when competing with dogs of the standard weight. And that any of the
Club's Judges who, in the opinion of the Committee, shall give Prizes
or otherwise push to the front dogs of a small type, shall at once be
struck off from the list of Specialist Judges.
RULES AND REGULATIONS
1. The Club shall be called "The Airedale Terrier Club."
2. The objects of the Club shall be to advance and protect the
interests of the Airedale Terrier, and to improve the breed.
3. The Club shall consist of a President, four Vice-Presidents, a
Committee, Honorary Treasurer and Secretary, and an unlimited number of
Members.
4. The President, Vice-Presidents, Committee, and Honorary Treasurer
and Secretary, shall be elected annually at the first General Annual
Meeting of the Club.
5. The first General Annual Meeting of the Club shall be held at the
Liverpool Dog Show, and any other General Meetings shall be held at
such places and times as the Committee shall think desirable.
6. Any respectable person favourable to the objects of the Club shall
be eligible for admission as a Member. Such person shall be proposed by
one Member of the Club and seconded by another Member, and the election
shall take place at any General Meeting of the Club. Two black balls
shall exclude from Membership.
7. There shall be an Entrance Fee of 10s., and an Annual Subscription
of 10s. for each Member, due on the 1st day of January in each year.
8. No one shall be deemed a Member of the Club or entitled to the
privileges of Membership, until the Annual Subscription and Entrance
Fee are paid.
9. The question of giving Prizes of Cups at Shows shall be decided by
any General Meeting, or by the Committee, or by a Sub-Committee to be
appointed for that purpose, who shall satisfy themselves as to the
Classes and Prizes, and Judges.
10. The President, Vice-Presidents, and Committee of the Club shall be
_ex-officio_ Judges at any show where the Club's Prizes or Cups are
given for competition.
11. All expenses incurred on behalf of the Club shall be defrayed out
of the funds of the Club.
12. The voting at all Meetings shall be by show of hands, unless
otherwise determined by such Meetings.
13. In the absence of the President, or Vice-Presidents, at any
Meeting, the Members present shall elect a Chairman for the purposes of
such Meeting.
14. Any Member can withdraw from the Club on giving notice in writing
to the Secretary, provided always that such Member shall be liable for
his subscription for the current year in which such notice is given.
15. Notices of all Meetings to be held, and Reports of such meetings,
may be sent to the _Stock-Keeper_, _Our Dogs_, and other Fanciers'
Publications, or as may be determined by the Committee.
16. Any Rules or Regulations of the Club shall only be made, altered,
or amended, at the First General Annual Meeting of the Club, and such
Rules, Regulations, Alterations or Amendments, shall only be made on
notice given by any Member to the Secretary at least ten days previous
to such Meeting.
=The White West Highland (Poltalloch) Terrier=
To Colonel Malcolm, C.B., the author is, through the kindness of _Our
Dogs' Gazette_, indebted for the following description of the breed
(_see_ Appendix).
"The White West Highland or Poltalloch Terriers are a very old breed of
dog in the West Highlands of Scotland, with traditions of two hundred
years, and they are known to have existed for at least eighty years
certain at Poltalloch, in Argyllshire. It is only of late years that
any of them have been publicly exhibited, and this because Colonel
Malcolm, C.B., of Poltalloch, felt that it was not just to the West
Highlands, and I think, of Scotland, that this ancient breed of
handsome hard-bitten dogs should be absolutely ignored by the canine
world.
"The Western Highlands of Scotland are not overrun with railways and
other means of rapid communication, so showing is both difficult and
extra expensive, and the possessors of good dogs of the breed have
not hitherto come forward in numbers to show what they have. And this
is a breed which must be carefully handled by bench judges, for they
are actual working dogs, and it will be a thousand pities if they get
spoiled, or, in Mr G. T. Teasdale-Buckell's words, become defiled by
scales of points, or degraded by the hunting of the tin-pot at dog
shows.
[Illustration: BRACE OF WHITE WEST HIGHLAND TERRIERS (Property of
Colonel MALCOLM, C.B.).]
"Colonel Malcolm's views are much as follows:--Dogs should not exceed
18 lbs., nor bitches 16 lbs., in weight. They should be very active,
for in power to spring considerable heights they may at times owe their
lives in a fox cairn. Heads should be broad, and eyes not closely set.
The latter point gives room for the brain pan, and without brains
there cannot be much intelligence. The former point provides for the
very powerful muscles which enable his dogs to cope successfully with
badgers, foxes, otters, etc., in their native fastnesses. He strives
also for as light a jaw as may be, contending that the fox is as good a
model as can be followed, and against the craze for heavy, or as they
are called, 'strong' jaws, that the heads of the cat and otter, both
of which animals have a bite of extraordinary power, might almost be
called round, so short and so wide are their jaws.
"Another point, practically as yet never looked at by the show-bench
judges, is the working coat. Now it is no matter whether the outer coat
be hard or soft. It should be long enough first to throw off water
with a good shake of the body, and to act as a good thatch to a thick
undergrowth of finest down, which will enable the wearer to stand the
worst of weather, and for perfection the coat should be strongest on
the sit-down portions of the body. Eyes must be dark and nose jet
black, and also a good deal of the mouth inside. This dog is as good
underground as he is on the show bench. How many champions, I wonder,
of other Terrier breeds have killed underground?"
=The Welsh Terrier=
It is only within the last few years that this variety of Terrier has
made his appearance on the English show benches, though indifferent
specimens have been in existence in Wales for a number of years.
The Welsh Terrier Club and the Kennel Club have been the chief mediums
through which the present standard of excellence has been obtained.
They are nice, smart, active little Terriers, and when properly trained
make exceedingly useful companions, being full of pluck and ready to
tackle anything their own height.
In colour, the Welshman is grizzle and tan, the coat being similar in
texture to that of the wire-haired Fox Terrier, smooth and free from
curl.
The _Head_ ought to be long, more especially from eyes to nose, the
occipital dome being a trifle more marked than it is in the Irish
Terrier. Ears small, and curved close to sides of face.
_Neck._--Of medium length and thickness, ending in oblique shoulders.
_Arms._--Short and strong.
_Forearms._--Of medium length, straight, and well muscled, tapering
from elbows to feet.
[Illustration: WELSH TERRIER.]
_Back and Loins._--Strong, and ribs well sprung.
_Tail._--Docked short, and curved like that of an Irish Terrier.
_First and Second Thighs._--Strong and well muscled.
_Feet._--Of a hare shape, but compact. A typical Welsh Terrier should
be compactly built all over.
_Club._--Welsh Terrier.
=The Dandie-Dinmont=
It was not until 1814 that this variety of dog received his present
name, through Sir Walter Scott having written _Guy Mannering_, in which
the hero, Dandie Dinmont, plays such a conspicuous part.
To the _Field_, so far back as 1778, a Mr J. Davidson wrote a letter
as to how James Davidson, the original Dandie Dinmont, came into the
possession of his first Dandies, the chief of this account being as
follows:--
"The Border Muggers were great breeders of Terriers, and in their
wanderings the different tribes would meet once or twice yearly at
some of the border villages. If they could not get a badger, they
would try their dogs on a foumart (wildcat) or a hedgehog.
"Jock Anderson, the head of the tribe, had a red bitch that for such
work beat all the dogs that came over the border.
"Geordie Faa had a wire-haired dog that was the terror of all the
dogs in the district, and that was good at badger, fox, or foumart.
"A badger had been procured, and both the dog and bitch drew the
badger every time.
"Geordie Faa said to Jock Anderson, 'Let's have a big drink, the man
first down to lose his dog.'
[Illustration: DANDIE-DINMONT TERRIER DOG THISTLE GROVE BEN (Property
of Mr R. FISHER, Hawick).]
"'Done,' says Jock.
"Down they sat on the green, and in eighteen hours Jock was laid out,
and Geordie started off with the dogs.
"They were mated, and produced the first Pepper and Mustard, and
these were presented by Geordie to James Davidson ('Dandie Dinmont')."
The foregoing account would appear to be fairly acceptable, and one
that is in accordance with the gameness of these little Terriers.
The breed is a hardy one; are good-tempered, and make excellent
companions.
The chief points of the Dandie-Dinmont are as follows:--
_Head._--The skull ought to be broad between the ears, and the forehead
well domed. It should be covered with light, silky hair, softer the
better. The muzzle deep, and from it--excepting the bare part about an
inch from the back part of the nose--there ought to be hair growing, a
little darker than that on the head.
Level, strong, and sound teeth are a _sine qua non_.
Large, full round eyes, set well apart, and low down, with a lively
expression; a black nose; black inside mouth, together with large,
low-placed, pendulous ears, hanging close to cheek, and tapering on
their posterior borders.
The ears should be covered with soft, brown hair, forming a feathering
around the bottom, and 3 or 4 inches long.
_Neck._--Short and well rounded.
Body, long and strong, with well-rounded ribs, and a downward curve
behind the shoulders, but slightly arched at the loins.
_Tail._--About 8 inches in length, thick at the set-on, and then
thicker for 2 or 3 inches, afterwards tapering.
The upper face of the tail should be covered with wiry hair, and the
under side also have lighter-coloured hair. When at rest, the tail
ought to assume a scimitar-like curve, and under excitement carried on
a level with its set-on.
_Fore-and Hind-limbs._--Short fore-legs, set well apart, and if dog is
blue-coloured, the hair on them should be tan or fawn, in accordance
with body colour.
A couple of inches of feather ought to be present, and a shade lighter
than that on the front of the legs.
In a "mustard" Dandie the hair on the head is cream-coloured.
The hind-legs, have no feather, neither should they have any dewclaws.
If present at birth they must be removed.
_Colour._--Mustard or Pepper. If the former, the tint is from a
reddish-brown to a delicate fawn; the head creamy and darker.
Pepper-coloured Dandies are either steel-coloured, or a light silvery
grey, and are preferred with the body colour blending with that on the
limbs.
The most useful weight is about 20 lbs., and the height 8 to 11 inches.
The coat should be a mixture of hard and soft hair, yet crisp to the
feel.
_Society._--Dandie-Dinmont Terrier.
STANDARD OF POINTS OF THE DANDIE-DINMONT TERRIER,
_As Defined and Adopted by The Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club_.
_Head._--Strongly made and large, not out of proportion to the dog's
size, the muscles showing extraordinary development, more especially
the maxillary. Skull broad between the ears, getting gradually less
towards the eyes, and measuring about the same from the inner corner of
the eye to back of skull as it does from ear to ear. The forehead well
domed. The head is covered with very soft silky hair, which should not
be confined to a mere top-knot, and the lighter in colour and silkier
it is the better. The cheeks, starting from the ears proportionately
with the skull, have a gradual taper towards the muzzle, which is
deep and strongly made, and measures about 3 inches in length, or in
proportion to skull as three is to five. The muzzle is covered with
hair of a little darker shade than the top-knot, and of the same texture
as the feather of the fore-legs. The top of the muzzle is generally
bare for about an inch from the back part of the nose, the bareness
coming to a point towards the eye, and being about 1 inch broad at the
nose. The nose and inside of mouth black or dark coloured. The teeth
very strong, especially the canine, which are of extraordinary size
for such a small dog. The canines fit well into each other, so as to
give the greatest available holding and punishing power, and the teeth
are level in front, the upper ones very slightly overlapping the under
ones. [Many of the finest specimens have a "swine mouth," which is very
objectionable, but it is not so great an objection as the protrusion of
the under jaw.]
_Eyes._--Set wide apart, large, full, round, bright, expressive of
great determination, intelligence and dignity; set low and prominent in
front of the head; colour, a rich dark hazel.
_Ears._--Pendulous, set well back, wide apart, and low on the skull,
hanging close to the cheek, with a very slight projection at the base,
broad at the junction of the head and tapering almost to a point, the
fore part of the ear tapering very little--the tapering being mostly
on the back part, the fore part of the ear coming almost straight down
from its junction with the head to the tip. They should harmonise
in colour with the body colour. In the case of a Pepper dog they are
covered with a soft, straight, brownish hair (in some cases almost
black). In the case of a Mustard dog the hair should be mustard in
colour, a shade darker than the body, but not black. All should have a
thin feather of light hair starting about 2 inches from the tip, and
of nearly the same colour and texture as the top-knot, which gives the
ear the appearance of a distinct point. The animal is often one and two
years old before the feather is shown. The cartilage and skin of the
ear should not be thick, but rather thin. Length of ear from 3 to 4
inches.
_Neck._--Very muscular, well-developed, and strong, showing great power
of resistance, being well set into the shoulders.
_Body._--Long, strong and flexible; ribs well sprung and round, chest
well developed and let well down between the fore-legs; the back rather
low at the shoulder, having a slight downward curve and a corresponding
arch over the loins, with a very slight gradual drop from top of loins
to root of tail; both sides of backbone well supplied with muscle.
_Tail._--Rather short, say from 8 inches to 10 inches, and covered on
the upper side with wiry hair of darker colour than that of the body,
the hair on the under side being lighter in colour and not so wiry,
with nice feather about 2 inches long, getting shorter as it nears the
tip; rather thick at the root, getting thicker for about 4 inches, then
tapering off to a point. It should not be twisted or curled in any way,
but should come up with a curve like a scimitar, the tip, when excited,
being in a perpendicular line with the root of the tail. It should
neither be set on too high nor too low. When not excited it is carried
gaily, and a little above the level of the body.
_Legs._--The fore-legs short, with immense muscular development and
bone, set wide apart, the chest coming well down between them. The feet
well formed, and not flat, with very strong brown or dark-coloured
claws. Bandy legs and flat feet are objectionable. The hair on the
fore-legs and feet of a Pepper dog should be tan, varying according to
the body colour from a rich tan to a pale fawn; of a Mustard dog they
are of a darker shade than its head, which is a creamy white. In both
colours there is a nice feather, about 2 inches long, rather lighter
in colour than the hair on the fore part of the leg. The hind-legs are
a little longer than the fore ones, and are set rather wide apart, but
not spread out in an unnatural manner, while the feet are much smaller;
the thighs are well developed, and the hair of the same colour and
texture as the fore ones, but having no feather or dewclaws; the whole
claws should be dark; but the claws of all vary in shade according to
the colour of the dog's body.
_Coat._--This is a very important point; the hair should be about 2
inches long; that from skull to root of tail, a mixture of hardish
and soft hair, which gives a sort of crisp feel to the hand. The hard
should not be wiry; the coat is what is termed pily or pencilled. The
hair on the under part of the body is lighter in colour and softer than
on the top. The skin on the belly accords with the colour of dog.
_Colour._--The colour is Pepper or Mustard. The Pepper ranges from a
dark bluish black to a light silvery grey, the intermediate shades
being preferred, the body colour coming well down the shoulder and
hips, gradually merging into the leg colour. The Mustards vary from a
reddish brown to a pale fawn, the head being a creamy white, the legs
and feet of a shade darker than the head. The claws are dark as in
other colours. [Nearly all Dandie-Dinmont Terriers have some white on
the chest, and some have also white claws.]
_Size._--The height should be from 8 to 11 inches at the top of
shoulder. Length from top of shoulder to root of tail should not be
more than twice the dog's height, but preferably, 1 or 2 inches less.
_Weight._--From 14 lbs. to 24 lbs.; the best weight as near 18 lbs. as
possible. These weights are for dogs in good working condition.
The relative value of several Points in the Standard are apportioned as
follows:--
Head 10
Eyes 10
Ears 10
Neck 5
Body 20
Tail 5
Legs and feet 10
Coat 15
Colour 5
Size and Weight 5
General Appearance 5
----
100
RULES FOR BREEDERS' CHALLENGE CUP
1. These shall be four breeders' Challenge Cups--one for Pepper
Dogs, one for Pepper Bitches, one for Mustard Dogs, one for Mustard
Bitches--to be competed for at shows to be decided upon by the
Committee of The Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club: but they shall not be
offered at any show where the competition is not open to all the
Members.
2. No dog or bitch whelped prior to 1st Jan. 1902 shall be eligible to
compete for the Cups.
3. Every dog or bitch competing for one of the Cups must be bred by
a Member (who is a Member at the time the dog is whelped) of The
Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club, and must at the time of competition be
the _bonâ fide_ property of a Member of The Dandie-Dinmont Terrier
Club, and the Cup or Cups shall be awarded to the breeder, who need not
necessarily be the owner.
4. No dog or bitch shall be eligible to win a cup more than once.
5. Each cup must be won five times by the same Member before becoming
his or her property.
6. A medal shall be presented in commemoration of each win.
7. Winners for the time being shall have the custody of the cup or
cups, subject to the conditions to be fixed by the Committee of The
Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club.
RULES FOR THE TIDDEMAN TROPHIES
1. The two Shields subscribed for in memory of the Rev. E. S. Tiddeman,
the late President of the Club, shall be called the "Tiddeman
Trophies." In the competitions one Shield shall be for the best dog
and the other for the best bitch in the Dandie classes.
2. The Trophies shall be competed for as Perpetual Challenge Shields,
and shall be confined to Members of the Club. The name of every winning
dog or bitch and its exhibitor shall be inscribed on the Shield,
together with the particulars of the win, at the expense of The
Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club.
3. The Trophies shall be competed for once in every year at a show to
be decided on by the Committee of The Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club.
4. The Trophies may be won any number of times by the same dog or bitch.
5. A medal shall be presented in commemoration of each win.
6. The winners for the time being shall have the custody of the
Trophies subject to the conditions fixed by the Committee of The
Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club.
7. All other matters affecting the Trophies shall be adjudicated on by
the Committee of The Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club, whose decision shall
be final.
RULES FOR THE RINGWOOD, CLUB, LANGLEY, AND BOUGHTON BREEDERS' CUPS
_Presented by Mrs Grieve, The Club, Messrs W. Goodall-Copestake and T.
B. Potterton for Pepper Dogs and Bitches and Mustard Dogs and Bitches._
1. The above Cups are for dogs and bitches under two years of age, open
to Members of The Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club only.
2. The Cups to be competed for by dogs and bitches who in competition
in their particular class have secured not less than a third prize,
and who have been bred by Members of The Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club,
_i.e._, Members of the Club at the time of dog's birth.
3. The Cups to be won three times before becoming the property of the
breeder.
4. No breeder to be permitted to win a Cup more than once with the same
dog or bitch.
5. The Cups not to be offered more than once a year, and at a show to
be named by the Committee.
6. All points not provided for in the foregoing conditions to be
settled by the Committee.
RULES FOR THE PICKLE CUPS
1. The two Cups presented by Mr W. H. A. Jacobson shall be called the
"Pickle Cups." In the competitions, one Cup shall be for the best
Pepper Dog, the other for the best Pepper Bitch.
2. The Cups shall be competed for as Perpetual Challenge Cups, and
shall be confined to Members of the Club. The name of every winning dog
or bitch and its exhibitor shall be inscribed on the Cups, together
with the particulars of the win, at the expense of The Dandie-Dinmont
Terrier Club.
3. The Cups shall be competed for once in every year at a show to be
decided on by the Committee of The Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club.
4. The Cups may be won any number of times by the same dog or bitch.
5. A medal shall be presented in commemoration of each win.
6. The winners for the time being shall have the custody of the Cups
subject to the conditions fixed by the Committee of The Dandie-Dinmont
Terrier Club.
7. All other matters affecting the Cups shall be adjudicated on by the
Committee of The Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club, whose decisions shall be
final.
RULES FOR OPEN PRODUCE STAKES OF £1 EACH,
_Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Brood Bitches to be entered and their produce
to be shown as explained below_. (5s. forfeit to the fund.)
_Entries close each year on 31st January._
The show will extend to all produce of the entered Bitches that shall
be born between 1st January and 31st December in the year of entry, and
will take place at such time as the Committee of The Dandie-Dinmont
Terrier Club shall decide. The Puppies will be shown under the Kennel
Club Rules and the following special
_Conditions and Rules:_
1. Any number of Brood Bitches, the property of the same owner, may be
entered for the Stake.
2. Bitches shall only be eligible for entry in respect to Produce to be
born on or after 1st January. Entries may be made at any time before
the closing of the Stake on 31st January, but Bitches must be entered
before their Produce is born.
3. One entry shall only cover one litter of Puppies, but Bitches once
entered may be re-entered at any time after the date of closing, if it
is intended to breed another litter from them for competition.
4. A Notification of Service (Form B) must be made by the owner of
each Bitch entered for the Stake. In the case of Bitches which have
been served before the time of entry, this notification must accompany
such entry; and in the case of Bitches which have _not_ been served
before the time of entry, this notification must be sent to the Hon.
Sec. within one calendar month after the time such Bitch shall have
been served.
5. Within one calendar month from the Birth of the Puppies of any
Bitch entered for the Stake, the owner shall forward to the Hon. Sec.
a Certificate (Form C), signed by himself, stating the date of birth,
with sex and colour of each Puppy.
6. Five shillings to be paid on entering each Bitch--the only liability
in case of forfeit--the remaining fifteen shillings to become due and
to be paid if and when the owner accepts for one or more of the Puppies
for the Stake, on or before the date which will be appointed for that
purpose and duly announced.
7. Any number of Puppies of one litter are eligible to compete under
one subscription, provided that, if the breeder shall have sold or
otherwise parted from any such Puppy or Puppies, no other person may
accept for them or for any of them for the Stake, unless he also pay £1
for such acceptance, and forward to the Hon. Sec. a Certificate from
the late owner, properly identifying the Puppy or Puppies in question.
8. Notice for accepting for the Puppies for competition will be sent
at the proper times to all who have entered Bitches, and when the
acceptances have come in, the Committee of the Dandie-Dinmont Terrier
Club will decide the number and proportion of the prize into which the
Stakes will be divided.
9. If a Bitch entered for a Stake be sold or otherwise parted with
before her Puppies are born, the new owner shall forward to the Hon.
Sec. a Certificate of the fact, signed by the late owner, and shall in
all other respects comply with the Rules hereinbefore set out.
10. If any Judge appointed shall have made any entry for this Stake, he
shall have his subscription in respect of such entry returned to him.
11. Any one failing to comply with the above Rules respecting
Certificates shall be refused permission to accept for the litter in
respect of which a breach of Rules has been committed, and shall in
such case forfeit his entrance fee, 5s.
12. All matters of doubt or dispute arising under these Rules and
Conditions, or otherwise respecting the Stake, shall be settled by the
Committee of The Dandie-Dinmont Terrier Club, and their decision shall
be final.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
SECTION G
CHAPTER XIV
=Afghan Greyhound=
LURCHER
CHAPTER XIV
=The Afghan Greyhound=
Through the kindness of Cary Barnard, Esq., of Hailsham, I am able to
give an illustration of this variety of dog so scarce in this country,
the specimen depicted being typical of the breed.
These Hounds are said to be somewhat difficult to obtain, the owners
are unwilling to part with them, being kept by a class who consider it
a distinction to own them.
In the Natural History Museum at South Kensington there is a stuffed
specimen, practically identical with the one herein portrayed.
Built on racing lines, in almost every particular, these dogs look
exceedingly quaint, chiefly because of the feather, or long hairs, upon
the ears, throat, backs of the limbs, feet, and tail.
_Skull_ is rather broad, and flat on the top, but there is no "stop."
_Eyes._--Small, placed close together and well to the front, giving the
animal the appearance of having a very penetrating vision.
_Ears._--Remind one of a short-eared Spaniel, and from over their
surface long hairs proceed.
_Neck._--Long, rather thick, and the body and loins long, yet well
coupled.
When viewed from the front, these Hounds look very tall, due to the
great length of the arms and forearms. These regions, and those of the
shoulders, are strongly built.
When at rest, tail is carried rather like that of the Irish Water
Spaniel, and during excitement, elevated, but not carried over the
back. It has an abundance of long hair.
First and second thighs long, and feathery to a short distance above
the hocks. Hind toes are well clothed with hair. The hocks are strong,
low-placed, and pasterns long.
_Colour._--Fawn, with the feathered portions running to a silvery white.
_Weight._--About 50 lbs.
_Height at shoulder._--24 inches, or thereabout.
_Uses._--During Captain Barnard's residence in Afghanistan, the Hound
depicted in our illustration was used for running jackal, and said to
be very useful for this purpose.
He is an exceptionally fine jumper, having made a clean leap over a
fence 9 feet 4 inches in height--a most creditable performance. This
Hound has won numerous prizes, including a 2nd, at Crystal Palace.
[Illustration: AFGHAN GREYHOUND (Property of Mr CARY BARNARD).]
=The Lurcher=
We shall do little more than mention the existence of this cross-bred
variety of dog.
The proprietor of a Lurcher has always been regarded as one who will,
when the opportunity offers, take his dog "up the back stairs," and
gamekeepers generally look upon the owner of a Lurcher as one worthy of
a little extra vigilance.
Any cross-bred dog, in whom the Greyhound blood predominates, may be
designated as a Lurcher, and can be trained as such.
Many of these dogs are wonderfully clever on rabbits, and some will
kill a hare single-handed, more especially if about three-quarter bred
on the Greyhound side, when staying power and swiftness are highly
developed.
Good at fighting, good at poaching, good at retrieving, and fidelity to
master, may justly be claimed as the Lurcher's inheritance.
THE TRAINING, USE, AND ABUSE, OF NIGHT-DOGS
To Mr W. Burton, of Thorneywood Kennels, Nottingham (per gamekeeper), I
am indebted for the following account.
"A perfectly trained and reliable night-dog is as useful to the
gamekeeper as two or three additional assistants, and, indeed, I have
personally heard old poachers remark that they would rather face a
dozen men than half that number accompanied by one of these animals,
even if resistance would be offered at all where a dog was employed
against them. Such being the case, it makes one wonder why night-dogs
are not more frequently used by gamekeepers in rough localities, and I
am afraid the animals have come into disrepute, owing to the manner in
which their employment has been abused by careless watchers.
"It must not be supposed that a night-dog simply requires rearing, and
that when old enough a muzzle has only to be put on and he will face
anything he is encouraged to attack. The dog must be trained to his
duty as a retriever is taught to bring in game, or he will never prove
a satisfactory companion when poachers are about.
"When a puppy has been procured, he should be accustomed to wear a
muzzle from an early age--five months for instance--and strangers
should not be allowed to pet and caress him; on the other hand, they
may tease him as much as they like, providing that he is not hurt.
Of all the muzzles made I prefer those with a solid piece of leather
beneath the jaw, and straps round the neck and nose having buckles so
that they may be manipulated as required.
[Illustration: THE CELEBRATED KEEPER'S NIGHT-DOG THORNEYWOOD TERROR,
said to be the most perfectly trained Night Dog ever bred. (Property of
Mr BURTON, Thorneywood Kennels, Nottingham.)]
"When the dog is ten months old and quite used to wearing its muzzle,
he should be taken muzzled to a quiet place where you have previously
arranged for a perfect stranger to be. This man should have a bag
rolled up and strapped to one hand, and a glove on the other, and
should be in hiding at the appointed spot; when the dog and his master
get within a hundred yards or so, the stranger should 'break covert'
and run out across the field. The dog must at once be released and
encouraged to attack the man, his owner running with him the while.
Upon the dog's coming up with his quarry it is the duty of the latter
to buffet him with the bag, pull his tail and flank, and tease him
generally. Do not let this continue too long without a break, as a
muzzled dog is soon winded. His master should reach the spot as quickly
as possible, encourage the animal a little, and then take him off and
loosen his muzzle; after a slight rest he may be permitted another run
as before.
"When the dog begins to display anxiety for the fray, the man may be
provided with a thin cane, and instructed to give him a slight stroke
or two, but, at this moment, great care should be taken to observe its
effect. Some dogs, although game to a finish, are shy and sensitive,
and a stroke with a stick will cause hesitation, not from fear of the
blow, but because an impression of doing wrong is conveyed thereby.
Should the dog waver at this treatment, relinquish the use of the stick
for a time, and then introduce it again by degrees; if bred right he
will soon commence to resent it with fury. I have known pups from the
same litter to vary greatly in the development of courage, one standing
any amount of stick at a year, while others would not face it until six
months older.
"Such an instance I came across a short time ago. A keeper had a
youngster from me and eighteen months later reported that it had been
no good. I was surprised, and inquired if he had thoroughly tried the
creature. 'Yes!' said he, 'I got one of the night-watchers to run
across the park, and I then set the dog on him. The dog followed all
right, but, when struck with a stick, returned to me, and I shot him.'
This man knew I had retained one of the litter, and inquired how the
puppy had progressed. I arranged for him to visit me and see the dog
work, and he was surprised at what he witnessed. Afterwards I explained
that an animal of this description required training, but my friend
differed, and asserted that education ought not to be necessary.
"In no case should a dog be trained and tried on a lead or chain, or
the result will be that he will not chase a man. Instead, he will only
go for a poacher at close quarters, and then will continue to look
round for his owner. Teach the dog to rely on himself. Some gamekeepers
use their dogs on a long rope and religiously keep hold of the end
thereof, but the reason for this I never could determine, unless it is
to retain the animal for their own bodily protection. If so, the dog is
not being put to its proper duty.
"A night-dog is more valuable for catching a man than for fighting one;
still, he must be taught to give battle, because it is love of the
scrimmage following which causes him to give chase. A dog is certainly
useful when a rough fight takes place, but he is doubly so when active
poachers have a long start of their pursuers, for, if he jumps at a
man, he is bound to bring his victim to the ground. Besides, if a dog
refuses to chase a man, he is of no good in the case of a gang which
freely stones the keepers, as then a resolute animal is a welcome
assistant. The chances against the dog being hit with a stone as he
makes for his assailants are ten to one, and, once he is at close
quarters, stones cannot be thrown at him for fear of comrades being
struck, and while the animal is busy among the party the members of it
will have plenty to do to stave off his attacks, and he will allow
them little leisure for pelting the keepers who must now hasten to the
fight.
"To hark back. Suppose the dog goes for the man when released and shows
no fear of the stick, he must then be taught to keep up the attack and
not have a jump or two and then return from the fray, allowing his foe
an opportunity of escaping. As a means of accomplishing this, the dog's
owner should be as close to the animal as possible and encourage him to
maintain the assault. When it is plainly to be seen that he is scant of
breath, at once take him off, because, if permitted to become tired,
the probability is that the dog will stand still, and, as the man
promptly does the same, will return to his master, perhaps, regarding
the affray as over. Once he acquires the much-to-be-regretted habit of
doing this, it will need some patience to correct it. It is a golden
rule never to unduly exhaust a youngster, and then, when age has been
acquired, he will be game all day or night.
"Having progressed thus far, the dog should next be taught to find
a man hidden in a ditch or up a tree. Candidly, this is a somewhat
difficult undertaking, and it is not every night-dog which becomes
clever in this particular. Instruct the man to secrete himself in a
ditch at the opposite side of the field; be careful to give the dog
the wind, and in nine cases out of ten it will be noticed that he
gazes as if looking for someone. Now move towards the hidden person
and encourage the animal onward. As both near the ditch the dog will
strongly detect the scent of his quarry, and at this point the hidden
man should make a slight movement for the purpose of attracting the
animal's attention. This action should be repeated until discovery
takes place, and, if the dog can thus be taught to use his nose, he
quickly becomes an adept at finding concealed poachers.
"When this is asserted, it is not meant that a man may be despatched
with a few minutes' grace, and if the dog is put upon the trail the
man will be followed; some bull-mastiffs may become clever enough to
foot a man, but recent trials have proved that even bloodhounds have to
possess the best of blood and training before they will unerringly hunt
a man under these conditions.
"Another important thing a night-dog should be taught is to at once
leave a man he has thrown down and start after another of the gang when
the keepers have arrived on the scene and laid hands on the first man.
Suppose a party of watchers drop across half-a-dozen poachers, who
all promptly take to their heels on seeing that the opposing side are
a match for them; the chances are the poachers get a good start, and
are nearly certain to escape, if the dog is not competent to play his
part. If he is capable, promptly slipped, and closely followed, he will
soon bring one to book; he should then be taken off and encouraged to
serve another likewise, and so on, until all have been arrested.
"To train the dog to do this, two men should start at one time, both
being armed with sticks. Instruct the two to keep together, and
when they are well on the run slip the dog and follow him as before
directed. When the animal gets close the men must separate, and he will
confine his attentions to one; immediately the man he first attacks
is down, despatch the dog after the second, who should be making good
pace away, while his companion stands perfectly still. At first, the
dog will plainly manifest that he prefers to stay and worry the one
he has succeeded in defeating rather than seek for fresh glories, but
persevere with him until he does renew the chase without the least
hesitation. You will succeed better in this if the second man is not
allowed to get too far away, and it will be advisable for him to wave
his stick and otherwise try to attract attention and invite attack.
When the dog recognises what is required of him, increase the distance
between first and second man, or let each run in an opposite direction.
It is very necessary that a dog should be taught to respect friends,
that is, to attack only those at whom he is set, and then at no other
time but when he is encouraged to do so. If he fails to learn this, he
is as likely as not to go at one of the watchers who happens to move or
otherwise attract notice.
"When a dog has been sufficiently tried to prove that he is in every
way game, it is advisable to allow the man upon whom he has been
exercising his powers to sit near and endeavour to make friends with
his four-legged opponent. All dogs will not consent to do the agreeable
to this extent, but the majority will generally settle down and be
quiet when they clearly understand that such behaviour is expected. It
is very necessary that a dog should learn to recognise when the battle
is over, and that having duly fulfilled his part he must be quiet, for
it would be awkward, to say the least, if a keeper has to struggle with
the animal to take him off a captured poacher, and then the rascal
takes advantage of the exhaustion of both keeper and dog to escape.
"A night-dog should not under any circumstances be tried on a person
who may at some future time have to accompany the animal while out
watching. If so, the dog is nearly certain to go for this person when
released for a scrimmage with poachers. Several instances like this
have occurred, and in certain of them the dog had not been tried on the
watcher he attacked since a puppy. This proves that they do not easily
forget the identity of an opponent.
"There is one other thing a dog should learn, and, having acquired
cleverness at it in addition to the lessons mentioned previously,
the animal may be regarded as a perfect night-dog. When lying out
with a party of watchers he must not be allowed to get into the habit
of curling himself up and going to sleep like a fat pig. He must be
taught to listen for the coming of poachers, as it is only natural that
he should detect their approach by both sound and smell long before
their advent on the scene is palpable to human senses. Some dogs do
this naturally, and the remainder only need encouragement to render
them proficient watchers. If a young dog displays a tendency to fall
asleep when out, arrange for a man to come on the scene just about the
time the animal will be settled down. This individual should move as
cautiously as he can, go straight to the dog, and have a good rough
round or two with him. Repeat the dose at intervals, and the dog will
soon take to watching attentively, expecting every sound to announce
the appearance of an antagonist.
"Never permit a night-dog to chase game or rabbits; if he is allowed
to do this the movements made by them at night will monopolise his
attention, and the watchers will never be sure whether he is pricking
up his ears at a rabbit rustling in the dead leaves or at the approach
of poachers; when released for a chase or scrimmage he will be likely
to direct his attention towards the less noble game.
"Opinions vary as to the weight a night-dog should attain, but a small
dog, however persevering he may be, cannot be so effective as one which
has the qualities of being large, game, and active. Suppose a dog, of
50 or 60 lbs. weight only, were to jump at a man, the latter could not
be knocked down. A clever poacher would wait his opportunity, catch the
animal in his arms, and throw him over an adjacent wall or fence, well
aware that the dog could not jump back. A night-dog should not be less
than 80 lbs., and if he is 100 lbs., strong and active, so much the
better. He ought to be able to jump a gate with ease and to get over
ground at a good pace. For colour a brindle is to be preferred, not
being so plainly visible at night as a red, fawn, or even black dog.
"When a perfect dog has been bought or trained, every care should be
taken that the animal is used properly. He should only be slipped at a
man when absolutely necessary, and then must be securely muzzled. If
a scrimmage becomes desperate and develops into a fight for life, the
watchers must use their own discretion as to allowing their dog freedom
to bite; if his muzzle be taken off, the man he attacks will surely
be marked in such a way that he will be easily identified. To slip a
night-dog at lads trespassing after mushrooms, blackberries, etc., is
the height of wanton folly, as the lads may be injured or terrified
to a serious degree. Remember, it is best not to loose the dog at all
if a man can be captured without his help, and he should be muzzled
except in extreme cases. If a poacher who has had his clothes torn and
been bitten simply because he ran away is brought before magistrates,
he may excite the pity of the latter, although he heartily deserves
condemnation from his judges; besides, a civil action for damages may
ensue.
"It is entirely through forgetfulness of these rules that so many
gentlemen object to night-dogs being used on their estates. But, if
an animal of this kind is regarded in its proper light, and its use
not abused, its mere presence will do more to deter poaching than the
employment of half-a-dozen extra hands."
CHAPTER XV
THE GAMEKEEPERS' KENNEL ASSOCIATION
CONCERNING THE ASSOCIATION
The Gamekeepers' Kennel Association has been formed with the primary
object of taking over the organisation of the Gamekeepers' Dog Show
as first held at the Westminster Aquarium, on 31st July and 1st and
2nd August 1900, it being deemed advisable by all parties concerned
that the show should cease to be proprietary or to be promoted by any
firm having trading interests with Gamekeepers. The other aims which
the Association has in view are fully described in the following
pages, and the Executive will do everything in their power to uphold
and protect the rights of Game-preservers, recognising that in this
lie the best interests of the Association and its members. The rule
regarding the exclusion of undesirable persons from membership will be
strictly enforced, and the Executive hope, that in time, the fact that
a Gamekeeper is a member of the Association will be looked upon as a
proof of ability and good character.
Donations and Subscriptions in aid of the Funds of the Association
will be gladly received and acknowledged by the Secretary. Cheques and
Post-office Orders should be made payable to the Gamekeepers' Kennel
Association and crossed "Barclay & Co." Secretary's address is:--
Mr F. W. MILLARD,
Hertford, Herts.
_Rules_
1. That the name of the Association be "The Gamekeepers' Kennel
Association."
2. That the object of the Association shall be to hold an Annual Show
for the exhibition and sale of trained dogs owned by Gamekeepers, to
uphold by all lawful means the rights of Game-preservers, to maintain
at the Offices of the Association a register of Gamekeepers out of
place, of situations vacant, and of dogs for sale, and also to promote
the interests of game-preserving and Gamekeepers generally in the
United Kingdom.
3. That the funds of the Association be spent in the furtherance of
these and other objects considered by the Committee to be necessary for
the welfare of Gamekeepers generally.
4. That a President, Vice-President, and Treasurer be elected annually.
5. That the present Committee remain in office two years.
6. That after the lapse of two years from the formation of the
Association one-third of the Committee shall retire annually by
rotation.
7. That the said rotation be decided according to alphabetical order.
8. That all members of the Committee retiring shall be eligible for
re-election.
9. That all members of the Committee re-elected on retirement, and
members elected in the place of those who resign, remain on the
Committee for three years.
10. That the Committee have power to add to their number.
11. That the Secretary of the Association be subject to one month's
notice.
12. That only _bonâ fide_ Gamekeepers be eligible for membership.
13. That the definition "Gamekeeper" be understood to include, for the
purposes of membership, anyone wholly engaged in the preservation of
game, deer, or fish.
14. That a Gamekeeper who has been a member of the Association five
years or more shall, on retiring from his duties as Gamekeeper through
old age or other physical incapacity, still be eligible for membership.
15. That retired gamekeepers who wish to at once become members of the
Association, be eligible for election at the option of the Committee.
16. That the annual subscription to be paid by members be fixed at 5s.
per annum for head-keepers and single-handed-keepers, and 2s. 6d. per
annum for under-keepers.
17. That these subscriptions be considered due on the 1st of January
each year, and must be paid before the 31st of that month.
18. That members wishing to join the Association at any time other than
the month of January must pay the full subscription for the current
year.
19. That all under-men wishing to join the Association must be
recommended by a head-keeper under whom they have served.
20. That no head-keeper, after 31st December 1904, shall be accepted
as a member, without a recommendation from his employer, or another
head-keeper who has already been enrolled.
21. That the Committee reserve the right to refuse any application for
membership, and also to expel any member for any wilful misconduct
which they decide is detrimental to the objects of the Association.
22. All members who have benefited by the Register, and not continued
to belong to the Association, must, if re-elected to membership, pay
any subscriptions in arrear, together with a fine of five shillings.
23. That no one except a member of the Association be allowed to
exhibit at any show promoted by the Association.
24. That no member be allowed to show a dog at any show unless he has
been enrolled a member since before 1st February of the same year.
25. All cheques to be signed by both Treasurer and Secretary.
26. That all persons assisting in the management of the Association
who are known to have trading interests with the members thereof, be
understood to hold office in their private capacity only.
27. That the Gamekeepers' Kennel Association recognise the authority of
the Kennel Club, and agree to obey the Rules and Regulations laid down
by the Kennel Club.
28. All new rules shall be framed and adopted in Committee.
_Rules for the Conduct of Meetings_
1. That the dates and places of all meetings be fixed by the Secretary,
and approved by at least three members of the Committee.
2. That each member of the Committee shall receive notice of all
meetings at least seven days previous to the date of such meetings.
3. Want of service of notice of meeting on any member of the Committee
shall not affect the validity of such meeting.
4. That five members of the Committee be considered a quorum.
5. That votes be taken by show of hands.
6. That all questions be decided by majority.
7. That the President or Chairman of any meeting for the time being
shall have a second or casting vote.
8. That minutes of the proceedings of every meeting be fairly entered
into a book kept for that purpose.
9. That notices of motions to be moved at any meeting by any member
of the Committee be sent in to the Secretary on receipt of notice
convening such meetings.
10. That the Committee from time to time make such rules as they
consider necessary for the Regulation of the proceedings at their
meetings.
_Legal Bureau_
Every member has a right to legal advice from the Honorary Solicitor
of the Association regarding any matter connected with his duties. All
applications for such advice must be made through the Secretary, and
letters addressed direct to Mr Everitt will not receive attention. This
regulation is necessary to prevent outsiders seeking benefits reserved
exclusively for members. Mr Everitt is prepared to take legal action
on behalf of members and their employers at recognised fees, and his
great knowledge of the intricacies of the Game Laws should ensure his
engagement in all difficult cases with reference to a breach of these
laws.
_Veterinary Bureau_
Every member of the Association has the privilege of obtaining free
veterinary advice on all matters pertaining to his kennels, diseases
of game, etc. Applications must be sent through the Secretary of the
Association, a description of the symptoms, duration of the disease,
number of animals affected, and any other information likely to be of
service to the expert when forming an opinion.
_The Situation Register_
The Executive of the Association will make every effort to assist
those of its members requiring situations, and, for that purpose,
advertisements will in due season be inserted in certain papers asking
gentlemen requiring Gamekeepers to write to the Secretary and state
their wants. A register of members out of place will be maintained
at the offices of the Association, and it is hoped that head-keepers
requiring under-men will in all cases apply to the Secretary before
seeking elsewhere.
_Directions to be followed by Members desirous of obtaining a Situation
through the Association_
A member out of place wishing to be entered on the Register of the
Association must apply to the Secretary for a form to fill up and
return.
Each member in corresponding with the Secretary must give his number,
which number will be found on his card of membership.
Should a member on the register obtain a situation by other means, he
must at once acquaint the Secretary that he has been engaged.
Should a member be taken into the employment of a gentleman or
head-keeper, with whom he has been placed in communication by the
Secretary, he must at once inform the Secretary, that his name may be
removed from the register.
_Remarks_
The Secretary will place members requiring situations in communication
with applicants for Gamekeepers as fast as inquiries fall in, but in
each case the two parties must arrange their own terms. The Executive
will do their best to find suitable men for the places offered, but
they give no recommendation. It is earnestly requested that members
making a change will at once send their new address to the Secretary.
_The Register of Dogs for Sale_
The Association maintains at its offices a register of sporting dogs,
belonging to its members, which are for sale, and from time to time
advertisements will be placed in certain papers that dogs are on
the register for disposal. It will be the earnest endeavour of the
Executive to induce sportsmen, in want of well-trained dogs, to apply
to the Secretary, and it is hoped that head-keepers requiring dogs will
purchase through the Association.
_Directions for Placing a Dog upon the Register of the Association_
A member of the Association having a dog for sale must write to the
Secretary for a form on which the animal and its capabilities may be
described. When the Secretary receives this form back the dog will be
entered upon the Register of the Association.
Each member in corresponding with the Secretary must give his number,
which number will be found on his card of membership.
Should a dog upon the Register of the Association be disposed of
privately by its owner, he must immediately inform the Secretary, that
it may be removed from the Register. Breaches of this order will be
dealt with by the Committee, because endless confusion and delay will
ensue if it is not followed out.
Beyond placing seller and purchaser in communication with each other,
the Association can accept no responsibility.
_Rules to be observed by both Parties when a Dog goes on Trial_
1. When an intending purchaser stipulates for a trial, a dog must be in
his hands four clear days, the days of despatch and return not being
counted.
2. The intending purchaser must be deemed responsible for the dog's
safety during the period allowed for trial.
3. The carriage of a dog on the outward journey must be paid by the
person to whom it goes on trial.
4. If a dog is returned after a trial as unsuitable, its owner must pay
carriage on the homeward journey.
5. On a sale being concluded, the late owner of the dog sold must
immediately inform the Secretary.
6. If a dog after trial is returned as unsuitable, its owner must at
once inform the Secretary. Until he has done this, no further measures
for its sale will be taken.
_Notice_
Gentlemen will much simplify the work of the Secretary if, when
requiring a dog, they explicitly state their wants, and mention the
price they are prepared to give.
_Remarks_
The Executive hope that both parties to a transaction will implicitly
observe the foregoing rules and directions. When filling up the forms,
an exact description of a dog and its capabilities should be given;
if misrepresentation is attempted, irretrievable harm will be done
to the Association and its objects. Once sportsmen are assured that
the Association is a reliable source from which well-trained dogs may
be obtained, they will not fail to resort to it. By observing the
utmost care when filling in a form, members will be protecting their
own interests, aiding the Executive, and enhancing the honour of the
Association.
_Stud Dogs_