positives has caused considerable discussion. If the negatives are old
and granulated, they should of course be discarded. Remember that the
capacity of negatives decreases steadily after they are put into
service, while the capacity of positives increases. Putting new
positives against negatives which are rapidly losing capacity is not
advisable. However, trouble often arises in a battery whose negatives
still have considerable capacity, and such negatives may safely be
used with new positives.
If you feel that a battery will not give at least six months more
service after rebuilding with the old negatives, put in all new
plates, or sell the owner a new battery, allowing him some money on
the old battery. But if you really believe that the negatives still
have considerable capacity, put in new positives if required. If all
new plates are used, proceed as directed in this chapter, beginning at
page 348.
3. If you find that only some of the plates are to be discarded, or if
you are not certain as to the condition of the plates, eliminate any
short circuits which may exist, and give the battery a preliminary
charge, as described later, before you do any work on the plates.
Plates that are fully charged are in the best possible condition for
handling, and you should make it an ironclad rule that if some of the
plates can be used again always to charge a battery before you work on
the plates, no matter what is to be done to them. If both positives
and negatives are to be discarded, the preliminary charge should not,
of course, be given, but if only the negatives, or the negatives and
some or all of the positives are to be used again, give this
preliminary charge. Very few batteries will come to your shop in a
charged condition, and an exhausted battery is not in a good condition
to be worked on. Charge the whole battery even though only one cell is
in a very bad condition. This is a method that has been tried out
thoroughly in practice, not in one or two cases, but in thousands.
Batteries in all sorts of conditions have been rebuilt by this method,
and have always given first class service, a service which was
frequently as good, if not better than that given by new batteries.
Examining the Plates
Place an element on a block of wood as shown in Fig. 201. Carefully
pry the plates apart so that you can look down between them and make a
fair preliminary examination. Whenever possible, make your examination
of the plates without separating the groups or removing the old
separators. This should be done because:
(a) Very often the active material is bulged or swollen, and if you
pull out the old separators and put in new ones before charging, the
element spreads out so at the bottom that it cannot be put back into
the jars without first pressing in a plate press. Pressing a complete
element with the separators in place should never be done if it can
possibly be avoided. If it is done the separators should be thrown.
away after you have charged the battery, washed and pressed the
negatives, and washed the positive.
[Fig. 201 Element on block for examination]
(b) If you put in new separators before giving the battery the
preliminary charge, the new separators may pick up any impurities
which may be on the plates, and will probably be cracked by forcing
them between the bulged and sulphated plates. If, however, the old
separators are covered with sulphate, it is best to throw them away
and put in new separators before giving the battery its preliminary
charge, because such separators will greatly hinder the flow of the
charging current. In batteries using rubber sheets in addition to the
wooden separators, remove all the wooden separators and leave the
rubber sheets in place between the plates. Where only wooden
separators are used in a battery, these may be thrown away and
perforated rubber separators used for the preliminary charge. Rubber
separators may be used again. See (a) above about precautions against
pressing a complete element.
[Fig. 202 Separating the groups]
If you are not absolutely certain as to the condition of the plates,
draw out a few separators. If separators stick to the plates, loosen
them by inserting a putty knife blade between them and the plates.
Removing a few separators will permit you to separate the groups
before removing the rest of the separators. To separate the groups,
grasp a post in each hand, as, in Fig. 202, and work them back and
forth, being careful not to injure the posts, or break off any plates.
With the groups separated, the remaining separators will either fall
out or may be easily pushed out with a putty knife. Ordinarily, the
groups may be separated in this way if the elements have thirteen
plates or less.
The natural thing to do at this point is to decide what must be done
to the plates, and we therefore give a number of rules to help you
determine which are to be junked, and which are to be used again.
Study these rules carefully, and have them fixed firmly in your mind
so that you can tell instantly what must be done with the plates.
[Fig. 203 Positives from frozen vehicle cell, showing active
material sticking to separator]
When to Put In New Plates
1. If one or more jars are cracked and leak, and positive plates have
been ruined by freezing, as shown in Fig. 203, and if upon drawing out
the separators, and separating the positive and negative groups the
active material drops out of the grids, the only way to put the
battery in a good condition is to put in new positives, and new jars
and case if necessary.
Make a careful estimate of
1. (a) Cost of new jars.
2. (b) Cost of new plates.
3. (c) Cost of new case if needed.
4. (d) Cost of labor required.
Try to have the owner present while you are opening his battery. If,
however, he could not wait, and has left, call him up and tell him
what the total cost will be, and if he has no objections, go ahead
with the job. If he is not entirely satisfied with your price, try to
get him to come to your shop. Show him the battery, explain its
condition, tell him just what must be done with it, and explain how
you made your estimate of the cost of the whole job. If you do this.
there will never be any misunderstanding as to cost. Tell him the cost
of a new battery, and let him decide if lie wants one. If the cost of
repairing is almost as much as the price of a new battery. advise him
to buy a new one, but allow him to make the decision himself. He will
then have no cause for complaint.
[Fig. 204 and 205 Show Diseased Negatives. The Large Ones Only
Eight Months Old. Active Material, Granulated and Blistered]
2. If the battery is more than two years old, and the active material
on the negative plates is granulated (grainy appearance), Figs. 204
and 205, and somewhat disintegrated; if the plates are weak and
brittle around the edges, and several grids are cracked, Fig. 206, and
the plates have lost a considerable amount of active material; and if
the case has been rotted by the acid, the battery should be junked.
[Fig. 206 Weak and cracked positives]
Call up the owner, and tell him he needs a new battery. If he does not
seem pleased, ask him to come to your shop. Then show him his battery,
and explain its condition. If you are courteous and patient, you will
sell him a new battery. Otherwise he will never return.
[Fig. 207 Buckled plates, and Fig. 208 An unusually bad case
of buckling]
3. If the positive plates are badly distorted from buckling, as in
Figs. 207 and 208 discard them, for they will cut through new
separators, if put into commission again, ill from two to six months.
4. A battery which has has been dry and badly sulphated at some past
period of its life will have the dry portions covered with a white
sulphate, the acid line being clearly distinguishable by this white
color, as shown at A and B in Fig. 201. If the plates are otherwise
in good shape and you wish to use them, give them the "water cure"
described on page 349.
[Fig. 209 Corroded, bulged and sulphated negatives.
Disintegrated, rotten positives.]
[Fig. 210 Disintegrated positives.]
5. Rotten and disintegrated positive plates, Figs. 209 and 210, must
be replaced with new plates. The plates have fallen to pieces or break
at the slightest pressure. Disintegrated plates are an indication of
impurities or overcharging, providing the battery is not old enough to
cause disintegration normally,--say about two years. The lead grid is
converted into peroxide of lead and becomes soft. As a result, there
is nothing to support the paste, and it falls out. Better put in new
negatives also.
6. Batteries with high gravity or hot electrolyte have burned and
carbonized separators, turning them black and rotting them, the
negative paste becomes granulated and is kept in a soft condition, and
gradually drops from the grids on account of the jolting of the car on
the road. Fig. 211 shows such a battery.
7. Dry, hard, and white, long discharged, and badly sulphated plates,
Figs. 201 and 209, are practically ruined, though if the trouble is
not of long standing, the plates may be revived somewhat by a long
charge at a very low rate, using distilled water in place of the
electrolyte, and then discharging at a current equal to about
one-eight to one-tenth of the ampere hour capacity of the battery at
the discharge board. Charge and discharge a battery a number or times,
and you may be able to put a little "pep" into it. In charging
sulphated plates, use a low charging rate, and do not allow gassing
before the end of the charge, or a temperature of the electrolyte
above 110°F.
[Fig. 211 Side and end view of element from traveling
salesman's battery]
8. If a battery case is not held down firmly, or if the elements are
loose in the jars, the plates will jump around when the car is in
motion. This will break the sealing compound on top of the battery,
and cause the battery to be a slopper. The active materials will be
shaken out of the grids, as shown in Fig. 212, and the plates will
wear through the separators. New plates are required.
9. If Battery Has Been Reversed. Often the plates of such a battery
disintegrate and crumble under the slightest pressure. If the reversal
is not too far advanced, the plates may be restored (See page 81), but
otherwise they should be discarded. This condition is recognized by
the original negatives being brown, and the original positives gray.
From the foregoing explanations, you see that most of the trouble is
with the positives:
(a) Because the positive active material does not stick together well,
but drops off, or sheds easily.
(b) Because the positives warp or buckle, this causing most of the
battery troubles.
(c) Because the positive plate is weaker and is ruined by freezing.
When the Old Plates May be Used Again
1. If one or more plates are broken from the plate connecting straps,
or the joint between any strap and the plate is poorly made. If plates
are in good condition, reburn the plate lugs to the straps.
[Fig. 212]
Fig. 212. Element from a "Slopper." Element was Loose in Jar and
Jolting of Car Caused Paste to Fall Out.
2. Straight Rebuild. If the general condition of the battery is good,
i.e., the plates straight or only slightly buckled, only a slight
amount of shedding of active material, no white sulphate oil either
plate, the grids not brittle, active material adhering to and firmly
touching the grids, the positive active material of a dark chocolate
brown color and fairly hard (as determined by scratching with blade of
a pocket knife), the negative active Material dark gray in color and
not blistered or granulated, and the plates not too thin, make a
straight rebuild. To do this, charge the battery, remove any sediment
from the bottom of the jar, wash and press the negatives, wash the
positives, clean the parts, insert new separators, and reassemble as
directed later. The only trouble may be cracked sealing compound, or a
broken jar. Broken jars should, of course, be replaced.
[Fig. 213 Badly bulged negatives. Such plates must be pressed]
3. Badly bulged negative plates, Fig. 213, cause lack of capacity
because the active material is loose, and does not make good contact
with the grids. If the active material is not badly granulated (having
a grainy appearance) the plates call be used again. Sulphated
negatives have very hard active material, and will feel as bard as
stone when scratched with a knife. Hard negatives from Which active
material has been falling ill lumps Oil account of being
overdischarged after having been in in undercharged condition may be
nursed back to life, if too much of the active material has not been
lost.
4. The formation of an excessive amount of sulphate may result in
cracking the grids, and the active materials falls out in lumps. Such
plates may be put in a serviceable condition by a long charge and
several cycles of charge and discharge if there is not too much
cracking or too much loss of active material.
5. Positives which are only slightly warped or buckled may be used
again.
6. When the only trouble found is a slight amount of shedding.
Positive active material must be of a dark chocolate brown color and
fairly hard. Negatives must be a dark gray.
7. When the plates are in a good condition, but one or more separators
have been worn or out through, or a jar is cracked.
If the battery is one which will not hold its charge, and plates seem
to be in a good condition, the trouble is very likely caused by the
separators approaching the breaking down point, and the repair job
consists of putting in new separators or "reinsulating" the battery.
What To Do With the Separators
It is the safest plan to put in new separators whenever a battery is
opened, and the groups separated. Separators are the weakest part of
the battery, and it is absolutely essential that all their pores be
fully opened so as to allow free passing of electrolyte through them.
Some of the conditions requiring new separators are:
1. Whenever the pores are closed by any foreign matter whatsoever. Put
in new separators whether you can figure out the cause of the trouble
or not. The separator shown in Fig. 201 is sulphated clear through
above the line B, and is worthless. The separator shown in Fig. 203
should not be used again.
2. When the separators have been cut or "chiseled off" by the edge of
a buckled plate, Fig. 214.
3. When a buckling plate or plate with bulged active material breaks
through the separator, Fig. 214.
[Fig. 214]
Fig. 214. Separators Worn Thin and Cut Through on Edges by Buckled
Plates. Holes Worn Through by Bulged Active Material, Center One Shows
Cell Was Dry Two Thirds of the Way Down.
4. When a battery has been used while the level of the Fig. 214.
Separators Worn Thin and Cut Through on Edges by Buckled Plates. Holes
Worn Through by Bulged Active Material. Center One Shows Cell Was Dry
Two Thirds of the Way Down electrolyte has been below the tops of the
plates, or the battery has been used in a discharged condition, and
lead sulphate has deposited on the separators, Fig. 201.
[Fig. 215 Rotted separators]
5. When a battery has been over-heated by overcharging or other
causes, and the hot acid has rotted, burned and carbonized the
separators, Fig. 215.
6. When a battery has been damaged by the addition of acid and the
separators have been rotted, Fig. 215.
7. Separators which are more than a year old should be replaced by new
ones, whether plates are defective or not.
When you have put in new separators, and put the battery on charge,
the specific gravity of the electrolyte may go down at first, instead
of rising. This is because the separators may absorb some of the acid.
If the battery was discharged when you put in the new separators, the
lowering of the specific gravity might not take place, but in most
cases the specific gravity will go down, or not change at all.
Find the Cause of Every Trouble
The foregoing rules must be studied carefully and be clearly tabulated
in your mind to be able to tell what to put into commission again and
what to discard as junk. It will take time to learn how to
discriminate, but keep at it persistently and persevere, and as you
pass judgment on this battery and that battery, ask yourself such
questions as: What put this battery in this condition? Why are the
negative plates granulated? Why are the positive plates buckled? What
caused the positive plates to disintegrate? Why are the separators
black? Why is the case rotten when less than a year old? Why did the
sealing compound crack on top and cause the electrolyte to slop? Why
did one of the terminal connectors get loose and make a slopper? Who
is to blame for it, the car manufacturer, the manufacturer of the
battery, or the owner of the car? Why did this battery have to be
taken off the car, opened up and rebuilt at 5 months old, when the
battery taken off a car just the day before had been on for 30 months
and never had been charged off the car but once? There is a reason;
find it. Locate the cause of the trouble if possible, remove the
cause; your customer will appreciate it and tell his friends about it,
and this will mean more business for you.
Eliminating "Shorts"
If you have decided that some or all of the plates may be used again,
the next thing to do is to separate any plates that are touching, and
put the battery on charge. It may be necessary to put in new
separators in place of the defective ones. Examine the separators
carefully. Whenever you find the pores of the separators stopped up
from any cause whatsoever, put in new separators before charging.
1. Sometimes the negative plates are bulged or blistered badly and
have worn clear through the separators, Fig. 214, and touch the
positives. In cases of this kind, to save time and trouble, separate
the groups, press the negatives lightly, as described later, assemble
the element with new separators, and it is ready for charging.
2. There is another case where the groups must be separated and new
separators inserted before they will take charge, and that is where
the battery has suffered from lack of water and has sulphated clear
through the separators, Fig. 201. The separators will be covered with
white sulphate. Chemical action is very sluggish in such cases.
If you find that the separator pores are still open, leave the
separators in place and proceed to separate the plates that are
touching. How? That depends on what insulating material you have
available that is thin enough. If nothing else is available, take a
piece of new dry separator about 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch square, or a
piece of pasteboard the same size. Use a screw driver or putty knife
to separate the plates far enough to insert the little piece of
insulation as in Fig. 216. Free all the shorts in this way, unless you
have some old rubber insulators. In this case, break off some narrow
strips 3/4 inch wide or less, put two together and repeat the
operation as above, using the rubber strips instead of the pieces of
separator. Insert down 1/2 inch or so and bend over and break off.
Occasionally the Lipper edges of the plates are shorted, in which case
they must be treated the same way.
[Fig. 216 Clearing short circuits]
[Fig. 217 Cleaning scale from posts before replacing connectors
temporarily for charge]
Charging
When you have in this way cleared all the "shorts" in the elements
place the elements back in the jars in the same position as they were
when you opened the battery, and add enough distilled water to the
electrolyte to cover the plates to a depth of one-half inch.
If the negatives are badly sulphated (active material very hard), they
will charge more quickly if all the old electrolyte is dumped out and
the cells filled with distilled water before putting the battery on
charge. This "water cure" is the best for sulphated negatives and will
save many plates that could otherwise not be used again. Make it a
rule to replace the old electrolyte with distilled water if negatives
are sulphated.
[Fig. 218]
Fig. 218. Tapping Connectors in Place.
Preparatory to Charging After Battery
Has Been Opened and Shorts Removed
The next operation is to put the battery on charge. Grasp each post in
the jaws of a pair of gas pliers and work the pliers back and forth,
Fig. 217, so as to remove the scale and allow the connecting straps to
make good contact. Now take a knife and cut off the rough edges left
in the connecting straps by the drill. Taper the edge, if necessary to
go on post. Turn the connectors upside down and pound gently in
position, Fig. 218, to make a good connection. Temporary charging
connections may also be made by burning lead strips on the posts. This
being properly done, the battery is ready for charging. Check up the
connections to be sure they are correct.
Now put the battery on charge, and charge at a low rate. Do not allow
the temperature of any cell to rise above 110°F. Continue the charge
until the electrolyte clears up, and its specific gravity stops rising
and the plates have a normal color over their entire surface. Fully
charged positive plates have a chocolate brown color, and fully
charged negative plates have a dark gray color. By holding an electric
light directly over a cell, and looking down, the color of both
negatives and positives may be determined. Do not take the battery off
charge until you have obtained these results, although it may be
necessary to continue the charge for two, three, four, or five days.
In this preliminary charge it is not necessary to bring the gravity up
to 1.280, because the electrolyte is not to be used again, and the
plates will become charged completely, regardless of what the gravity
is. The essential thing is to charge until the electrolyte becomes
perfectly clear, the gravity stops rising, and the plates have the
right color. The Cadmium test may be used here to determine when the
plates are charged. If the gravity rises above 1.280 during the
preliminary charge, adjust it to 1.280 by drawing out some of the
electrolyte and adding distilled water. The battery must stay on
charge until you have the desired conditions. If one cell does not
charge,--that is, if its specific gravity does not rise,--you have
probably not freed all the shorts, and must take the element out of
the jar again and carefully inspect it for more shorts.
Right here is where one of the most important questions may be asked
about rebuilding batteries. Why must you free the shorts and put the
battery on charge? Why not save time by putting in all new separators,
sealing the battery, burning on the cell connectors, and then putting
it on charge? If you have ever treated a battery in this way, what
results did you get? Why did you have a badly unbalanced gravity of
electrolyte? How could you know what specific gravity electrolyte to
put in each cell? Perhaps one was charged, one only half charged, and
the other dead. Suppose the dead cell had impurities in it. How could
you get rid of them? Suppose the battery showed poor capacity on test,
what would you do?
Washing and Pressing the Negatives
To continue the actual work on the battery. The battery being fully
charged,--the electrolyte clear, the plates of normal color, the
specific gravity no longer rising,-- remove it from the charging bench
and put it on the work bench. Draw each element and let drain as in
Fig. 197.
[Fig. 219 Nesting plates]
Here again the labeled boxes described on page 183 come in handy.
Separate one group, remove the separators, and put one group in each
end of box to keep clean. Separate another group, And nest the plates,
Fig. 219, the negative with the negative, and positive with positive.
Separate the third element and put groups in the boxes. Pour the old
electrolyte out of the jars, and wash out the jars as described on
page 360. You now have the plates in the best possible shape for
handling. Take the boxes containing the plates to the sink. Have the
plate press and the plate press boards ready for use.
If, for any reason, you are called away from your work at this point
to be gone for five minutes, do not leave the fully charged negatives
exposed to the air, as they will become very hot. Cover them with
water. A one-gallon stone or earthenware jar will hold the negative
plates of a 100 ampere hour battery if you nest two of the groups. You
may also put negatives back in jars from which they were taken, and
fill with water.
Now hold a negative group under the faucet, and let a strong stream of
water run down over each plate so as to wash it thoroughly, and to
remove any foreign matter from the plate surfaces. All negative groups
must be handled in exactly the same way so as to get the same results
in each case.
After you have washed the first group, place it on edge on a clean
board with the post down and pointing away from you, and the bottom of
the group toward you. Now insert plate press boards which are slightly
larger than the plates, and of the exact thickness required to fill
the spaces between plates, Fig. 113. For the standard 1/8 inch plates,
a 5-16 inch board, or two 1/8 inch boards should be placed between
plates.
The 1/8 inch boards are actually more than 1/8 inch thick, and will
give the proper spacing. For thin plates, use 1/4 inch boards. Do not
push the plate press boards more than 1/8 inch above the tops of the
plates, and be sure that the boards cover the entire plates. Put a
board on the outside of each end plate of the group. In this way
insert the plate press boards in each of the three negative groups.
Then place each negative group on the lower jaw of the plate press
with the post of each group pointing toward you. Three groups may be
pressed at one time. Bring the top edges of the transite boards flush
with the front edge of the lower jaw of the press, so that no pressure
will be applied to the plate lugs. See Fig. 114. Pressure applied to
the plate lugs will break them off.
Now screw down the upper jaw of the press as tightly as you can with
the handwheel, so as to put as much pressure on the plates as
possible. Leave the plates in the press for about five minutes. Then
remove them from the press, take out the boards, and replace the
plates in the battery jar from which they were removed, and cover with
water. They may also be placed in a stone or earthernware jar and
covered with water, especially if there is any work to be done on the
jars or case of the battery. If the spongy lead of the negatives is
firm, they may be reassembled in the battery as soon as they have been
pressed. If, however, the spongy lead is soft and mushy, keep the
negatives covered with water for 12 to 24 hours. This will make them
hard and firm. Then remove them from the water and dry them in the
air. In drying, the plates will become heated and will steam. As soon
as you notice any steaming, dip the plates in water until they are
cool. Then remove them from the water and continue the drying process.
Each time the negatives begin to steam as they dry in the air, dip
them in the water until they are cool.
When the negatives are dry, they are ready to be reassembled in the
battery and prepared for service. Negatives treated in this way will
give good service for a much longer time than they would if not
treated in this way. The spongy lead has been made firm and elastic.
If you have other negatives in your shop which are not in use, treat
them in the same way and put them away for future use, to use as
rental batteries. Always put them through the same process:
1. Charge them fully.
2. Press them in the plate press to force the spongy lead back into
the grids.
3. Soak them in water, if the spongy lead is soft and mushy, for 12 to
24 hours, or even longer until the spongy lead is firm. Dry them in
the air, dipping them in water whenever they begin to steam and become
heated. This will give you negatives that will give excellent service
and have a long life. Many negatives treated in this way will be good
for fifteen months to two years of additional service. The rental
batteries should be assembled in the same way as those you are
rebuilding for the owners.
The importance of pressing negatives cannot be exaggerated. Always
press the negatives of the batteries which you rebuild. Do not do it
to half, or three-fourths of the negatives, but to all of them. The
work takes but a few minutes, and the time could not be put to better
advantage. The spongy lead of the negatives swells and bulges out and
makes very poor contact with the grids as a battery becomes
discharged. This results in a loss of capacity, gradual sulphation of
the loose active material, corrosion of the grids, failure of the
gravity to rise high enough on charge, overheating of the battery on
charge, gassing before the sulphate is reduced to active material with
breaking off and roughening of the active material, and makes the
battery lazy and sluggish in action. The spongy lead must make good
contact with the grids if the battery is to have a long life and give
good service.
No amount of charging will cure a negative with bulged, swollen active
material. Once this material becomes bulged nothing but pressing will
put it back where it belongs, and until it is pressed back into the
grids the plates are in a poor condition for service. Even if the
bulging is but very slight, the plates must be pressed.
Washing Positives
If you intend to use some of the positives, they should now be washed.
If you intend to use all new positives, throw away the old ones, of
course. The positives should not be held under the faucet as the
negatives were, because the stream of water will wash out much of the
positive active material. Rinse the positives a number of times in a
jar of clean water by moving them up and down in the water. This will
remove impurities from the surfaces of the plates and wash off any
foreign or loose materials. After rinsing each positive group, replace
it in the box.
Never attempt to straighten badly buckled positives, as the bending
cannot be done successfully, and the active material will not have
good contact with the grids. Positives cannot be pressed as negatives
can, because the positive active material lacks the elasticity and
toughness of the negative spongy lead. Slightly buckled positives may
sometimes be straightened by bending them lightly all around the edges
with a pair of thin, wide nosed pliers. This should be done very
carefully, however, and the straightening done gradually. If the
plates cannot be straightened in this way and the separators do not
lie perfectly flat against them without pinching at the corners, the
plates should be discarded, and new ones used in their place.
This is all the work to be done on the old plates, and those which are
to be used again are ready to be reassembled in the battery. The
process of treating the plates should be followed in every battery
that you rebuild, and the same steps should always be taken, and in
the same order. With one Standard method of rebuilding batteries you
will do uniformly good work and satisfy all your customers. The
essential thing for the success of your battery business is to learn
the Standard method and use it. Do not rush a battery through your
shop, and leave out some of the steps of the process, even though the
owner may be in a hurry. If you have a good stock of rental batteries
you can put one on his car and keep it there until you have done as
good a job of rebuilding on his battery as you possibly can. Remember
that the Standard method which has been described has not simply been
figured out as being a good method. This method has been worked out in
the actual rebuilding of thousands and thousands of batteries of all
makes and in all conditions, and has produced batteries full of life
and power, ready to give one to two years more of good, reliable
service.
Burning on Plates
When you put new plates into a battery, or find some of the plates
broken from the connecting strap, it will be necessary to burn the
plates to the strap. Frequently you will find plates which are
otherwise in a good condition broken from the connecting straps. This
is most likely to happen when the plates have been cast on to the
connecting strap instead of being burned on. These plates must be
burned on.
New plates are frequently necessary. From pages 339 to 346 you see
that new plates are required under the following conditions:
(a) Positives. Ruined by freezing; weak and brittle from age, large
part of active material shed; badly buckled; rotten and disintegrated
by impurities; reversed. Positives in a reasonably good mechanical
condition can be restored to a good electrical condition by charging.
(b) Negatives. Active material granulated, bulged and disintegrated;
charged while dry; positives disintegrated by impurities; ruined by
overcharging; badly sulphated because allowed to stand idle, or used
while discharged; much active material lost, and that which is left
soft and mushy; negatives reversed by charging battery backwards.
When making plate renewals, never install plates of different design
in the same group. Always use plates of the type intended for the
battery. The battery should first be fully charged, as already
explained. If all the plates in a group are to be discarded, clamp the
post in a vise, being careful not to crack the hard rubber shell if
one is on it, or to damage the threads on Posts such as the Exide or
to draw up the vise so tightly as to crush the post. Then saw off all
the old plates with a new coarse toothed hacksaw, a sharp key hole
saw, or any good saw which has a wide set, close to the post. This
separates the entire group of plates from the post in one short
operation. This method is much better than the one of sawing the
plates off below the connecting strap, and sawing or punching the old
plate ends out of the strap. See page 217 for instructions for welding
plates to the straps.
Work on the Jars
The work on the jars consists of removing any sediment which may have
collected, washing out all dirt, and replacing leaky jars. The removal
of sediment and washing should be done after the preliminary charge
has been given and the old electrolyte poured out unless the
preliminary charge was given with distilled water in the jars. The old
electrolyte need not be poured down the sewer, but may be kept in
stone or earthenware jars and used later in making electrical tests to
locate leaky jars.
Testing Jars
Remove all sealing compound from the jar by means of a hot putty
knife, finishing by wiping with a gasoline soaked rag. Inspect each
jar carefully under a strong light for cracks and leaks. If you know
which jar is leaky by having filled each cell with water up to the
correct level, when you made the first examination of the battery, and
then having it allowed to stand over night to see if the electrolyte
in any cell has dropped below the tops of the plates, no tests are
necessary, but if you are in doubt as to which jar, if any, is leaky,
you must make tests to determine which jar is leaky. If you know that
there is no leaky jar, because of the bottom of the case not being
acid eaten and rotted, it is, of course, not necessary to test the
jars.
One test consists in filling the jar within about an inch of the top
with old or weak electrolyte, partly immersing the jar in a tank which
also contains electrolyte, and applying a voltage of 110 or 220
between the electrolyte in the jar and the electrolyte in the tank in
which the jar is partly immersed. If current Vows, this indicates that
the jar is leaky.
[Fig. 220 Testing jar for leaks, using a 15-watt lamp in series
with test circuit]
Fig. 220 shows the principle of the test. A suitable box,--an old
battery case will do--is lined with sheet lead, and the lead lining
is connected to either side of the 110 or 220 volt line. The box is
then partly filled with weak electrolyte. The jar to be tested is
filled to within about one inch of the top with weak electrolyte. The
jar is immersed to within about an inch of its top in the box. The top
part of the jar must be perfectly dry when the test is made, or else
the current will go through any electrolyte which may be wetting the
walls of the jar. A lead strip or rod, which is connected to the other
side of the 110 or 220 volt line, through a lamp as shown, is inserted
in the jar. If there is, a leak in the jar, the lamp will burn, and
the jar must be discarded. If the lamp does not light, the jar does
not leak.
Instead of using a lead lined box, a stone or earthenware jar may be
used. A sheet of lead should be placed in this jar, being bent into a
circular shape to fit the inside of the jar, and connected to one side
of the line. The lead rod or sheet which is inserted in the jar may be
mounted on a handle for convenience in making the test. The details of
the testing outfit may, of course, be varied according to what
material is available for use. The lamps should be suitably mounted on
the wall above the tester.
[Fig. 221 Testing jar for leaks, using a voltmeter in series
with test circuit]
This test may be made by using a voltmeter instead of lamps, as shown
in Fig. 221. If a voltmeter is used, be especially careful to have the
part projecting above the liquid perfectly dry. A leaky cell will be
indicated by a reading on the meter equal to the line voltage.
[Fig. 222 Testing jar for leaks, using secondary of Ford ignition
coil, or any other vibrator ignition coil]
A third method uses a Ford ignition coil, as shown in Fig. 222. A leak
will be indicated by a spark, or by the vibrator making more noise
than it ordinarily does. Instead of using the Ford coil, as shown in
Fig. 222, the test may be made as shown in Fig. 223. Fill the jar to
within an inch of the top with electrolyte and immerse one of the high
tension wires in the electrolyte. Attach the other high tension wire
to a wire brush, comb, or rod having a wooden handle and rub it over
the outside of the jar. A leak is shown by a spark jumping to the jar.
[Fig. 223 Testing jar for leaks, using secondary of Ford ignition
coil, or any other vibrator ignition coil]
The test may also be made without removing the jar. If the lead lined
box be made two feet long, the entire battery may be set in the box so
that the electrolyte in the box comes within an inch of the top of the
battery case. Fill each jar with weak electrolyte and make the test as
before. If this is done, however, remove the battery immediately after
making the test and wipe the case dry with a cloth. To make the test
in this way, the case must be considerably acid eaten in order to have
a circuit through it to the jar.
Removing Defective Jars
The method of removing the jars from the case depends on the battery.
In some batteries the jars are set in sealing compound. To remove a
jar from such a battery, put the steam hose from your steamer outfit
into the jar, cover up the top of the jar with rags, and steam the jar
for about five minutes. Another way is to fill the jar with boiling
hot water and let it stand for fully five minutes. Either of these
methods will soften the sealing compound around the jar so that the
jar may be pulled out. To remove the jar, grasp two sides of the jar
with two pairs of long, flat nosed pliers and pull straight up with an
even, steady pull. Have the new jar at hand and push it into the place
of the old one as soon as the latter is removed. The new jar should
first be steamed to soften it somewhat. Press down steadily on the new
jar until its top is flush with the tops of the other jars.
Some batteries do not use sealing compound around the jars, but simply
use thin wooden wedges to hold the jars in place, or have bolts
running through opposite faces of the case by means of which the sides
are pressed against the jars to hold them in place. The jars of such
batteries may be removed without heating, by removing the wedges or
loosening the bolts, as the case may be, and lifting out the jars with
pliers, as before. New jars should be steamed for several minutes
before being put in the case. When you put jars into such batteries,
do not apply too much pressure to them, as they may be cracked by the
pressure, or the jar may be squeezed out of shape, and the assembling
process made difficult.
[Fig. 224 Washing sediment from Jars. Water supply controlled
by foot valve]
Repairing the Case
The case may be repaired with all the jars in place, or it may be
necessary to remove the jars. If the case is to be junked and the jars
used again, the case may simply be broken off, especially if there is
much sealing compound around the jars.
Empty the old acid from the jars, take the case to the sink and wash
out all the sediment, Fig. 224. With the pipe shown in Fig. '14, you
have both hands free to hold the case, as the water is controlled by'
a foot operated spring cock.
If the case is rotten at top, patch it with good wood. If the top and
bottom are so rotten that considerable time will be required to repair
it, advise the owner to buy a new case. Sometimes the top of the case
can be greatly improved by straightening the side edges with a small
smoothing plane, and sometimes a 1/2 inch strip or more fitted all
along the edge is necessary for a good job. Handles that have been
pulled, rotted, or corroded off make disagreeable repair jobs, but a
satisfactory job can be done unless the end of the case has been
pulled off or rotted. Sometimes the handle will hold in place until
the battery is worn out by old age if three or four extra holes are
bored and countersunk in the handle where the wood is solid, and
common wood screws, size 12, 1/2 or 5/8 inch long used to fasten the
handle in place. Sometimes it will be necessary to put in one half of
a new end, the handle being fastened to the new piece with brass bolts
and nuts before it is put into place. Sometimes you can do a good job
by using a plate of sheet iron 1-16 inch thick, and 4 inches wide, and
as long as the end of the case is wide. Rivet the handle to this plate
with stovepipe, or copper rivets, and then fasten the plate to the
case with No. 12 wood screws, 1/2 inch long.
If the old case is good enough to use again, soak it for several hours
in a solution of baking soda in water to neutralize any acid which may
have been spilled on it, or which may be spilled on it later. After
soaking the case, rinse it in water, and allow it to dry thoroughly.
Then paint the case carefully with asphaltum paint.
REASSEMBLING THE BATTERY
Reassembling the Elements
Take a negative group and put it on edge on a board, with post away
from you, and lower edge toward you. Mesh a positive in the negative
group. The groups are now ready for the separators. Take six moist
separators from your stock. Slip one into position from the bottom in
the middle of the group, with the grooved side toward the positive
plate, spreading the plates slightly if necessary. Take another
separator, slip it into position on the opposite side of the positive
against which your first separator was placed. In this way, put in the
six separators, with the grooved side toward the positives, working
outward in both directions from the center, Fig. 225. The grooves
must, of course, extend from the top to the bottom of the plate. Now
grasp the element in both hands, and set it right side up on the
block, giving it a slight jar to bring the bottoms of the plates and
separators on a level.
[Fig. 225 Inserting separators]
Now grasp the element in both hands, and set it right side up on the
block, giving it a slight jar to bring the bottoms of the plates and
separators on a level.
Next take a cover, and try it on the posts, Fig. 226. Pull the groups
apart slightly, if necessary, before inserting any more separators, so
that the cover fits exactly over the posts, Fig. 227. See that the
separators extend the same distance beyond each side of the plates.
You may take a stick, about 10 inches long, 1 1/2 inches wide, and 7/8
inch thick, and tap the separators gently to even them up. A small
wood plane may be used to even up the side edges of wood separators.
If you put in too many separators before trying on the cover, the
plates may become so tight that you may not be able to shift them to
make the cover fit the posts or you may not be able to shift the
separators to their proper positions. It is therefore best to Put in
only enough separators to hold the groups together and so they can be
handled and yet remain in their proper position when set up on the
block. Without separators, the posts will not remain in position.
[Fig. 226 Trying on a cover]
[Fig. 227 Shifting groups to make cover fit]
With the element reassembled, and the remaining separators in their
proper positions, see that all the plates are level on bottom, and no
foreign matter sticking to them. Place the element in box shown in
Fig. 219 to keep clean. Reassemble the other elements in exactly the
same way, and put them in the box. The elements are now ready to be
put in the jars.
Putting Elements in Jars
Steam the jars in the steamer for about five minutes to soften them
somewhat, so that there will be no danger of breaking a jar when you
put in the elements.
With the case ready, look for the "+", "P" or "POS" mark on it. (Cases
which are not marked in this way at the factory should be marked by
the repairman before the battery is opened.) Place the case so that
this mark is toward you. Grip an element near the bottom in order to
prevent the plates from spreading, and put it in the jar nearest the
mark, with the positive post toward you, next to the mark. Put an
element in the next jar so that the negative post is toward you. Put
an element in the third jar so that the positive post is toward you,
and so on. The elements are correctly placed when each connecting
strap connects a positive to a negative post. If the case has no mark
on it, reassemble exactly according to the diagram you made on the tag
before you opened the battery. Set the jars so that the posts are
exactly in line so that the cell connectors will fit.
[Fig. 228 Tightening a loose element by placing a separator
against outside negative]
If an element fits loosely in the jar, it must be tightened. The best
way to do this is to put one or more separators on one or both sides
of the elements before putting it in the jar, Fig. 228. If you leave
the elements loose in the jars, the jolting of the car will soon crack
the sealing compound, and you will have a "slopper" on your hands.
If element fits very tight, be sure that the corners of the plate
straps have been rounded off and trimmed flush with outside negatives.
Be sure also that there is no compound sticking to the inside of jars.
Take care not to break the jar by forcing in a tight fitting element
when the jar is cold and stiff.
Filling Jars with Electrolyte or Putting on the Covers
With all the elements in place in the jars, one of two things may be.
done. First, the jars may be filled with electrolyte and the covers
then sealed on, or the covers may first be sealed on and the jars then
filled with electrolyte. Each method has its advantages and
disadvantages. If the jars are first filled with electrolyte, acid may
be splashed on the tipper parts of the jars and sealing made very
difficult.
On the other hand, if the electrolyte is first poured in, the charged
negatives will not become hot, and sealing compound which runs into
the jar will be chilled as soon as it strikes the electrolyte and will
float on top and do no harm. If the covers are sealed before any
electrolyte is added, it will be easier to do a good sealing job, but
the negatives will heat up. Furthermore, any sealing compound which
runs into the jar will run down between the plates and reduce the
plate area.
If care is taken to thoroughly dry the upper parts of the jars, add
the electrolyte before sealing on the covers.
Use 1.400 Acid
If you have followed the directions carefully, and have therefore
freed all the shorts, have thoroughly charged the plates, have washed
and pressed the negative groups, have washed the positives, have then
added any new plates which were needed, and have put in new
separators, use 1.400 specific gravity electrolyte. This is necessary
because washing the plates removed some of the acid, and the new
separators will absorb enough acid so that the specific gravity after
charging will be about 1.280.
The final specific gravity must be between 1.280 and 1.300. In measuring
the specific gravity the temperature must be about 70°F., or else
corrections must be made. For every three degrees above 70°, add one
point (.001) to the reading you obtain on the hydrometer. For every three
degrees under 70°, subtract one point (.001) from the reading you obtain
on the hydrometer. For instance, if you read a specific gravity of 1.275
and find that the temperature of the electrolyte is 82°F., add
((82-70)/3 = 4)four points (1.275 + .004), which gives 1.279, which is
what the specific gravity of the electrolyte would be if its temperature
were lowered to 70°. The reason this is done is that when Ave speak of an
electrolyte of a certain specific gravity, say 1.280, we mean that this is
its specific gravity when its temperature is 70°F. We must therefore make
the temperature correction if the temperature of the electrolyte is much
higher or lower than 70°F.
Putting on The Covers
This operation is a particular one, and must be done properly, or you
will come to grief. Get the box containing the covers and connectors
for the battery you are working on; take the covers, and clean them
thoroughly. There are several ways to clean them. If you have gasoline
at hand, dip a brush in it and scrub off the compound. The covers may
also be cleaned off with boiling water, but even after you have used
the hot water, it will be necessary to wipe off the covers with
gasoline. Another way to soften any compound which may be sticking to
them, is to put the covers in the Battery Steamer and steam them for
about ten minutes. This will also heat the covers and make them limp
so that they may be handled without breaking.
If the covers fit snugly all around the inside of the jars so that
there is no crack which will allow the compound to run down on the
elements, all is well and good. If, however, there are cracks large
enough to put a small, thin putty knife in, you must close them. If
the cracks are due to the tops of the jars being bent out of shape,
heat the tops with a soft flame until they are limp, (be careful not
to burn them). Now, with short, thin wedges of wood, (new dry
separators generally answer the purpose), crowd down on the outside
edges of the jar, until you have the upper edge of jars straight and
even all around. If the jars are set in compound, take a hot
screwdriver and remove the compound from between the jar and case
near the top. If the cracks between cover and jar still remain, calk
them with asbestos packing, tow, or ordinary wrapping string. Do not
use too much packing;--just enough to close the cracks is sufficient.
When this is done, see that the top of the case is perfectly level, so
that when the compound is poured in, it will settle level all around
the upper edge of the case.
Sealing Compounds
There are many grades of compounds (see page 149), and the kind to use
must be determined by the type of battery to be sealed. There is no
question but that a poor grade used as carefully as possible will soon
crack and produce a slopper. A battery carelessly sealed with the best
compound is no better.
The three imperative conditions for a permanent lasting job are:
1. Use the best quality of the proper kind of compound for sealing the
battery on hand.
2. All surfaces that the compound comes in contact with must be free
from acid and absolutely clean and dry.
3. The sealing must be done conscientiously and all details properly
attended to step by step, and all work done in a workmanlike manner.
With respect to sealing, batteries may be divided into two general
classes. First, the old type battery with a considerable amount of
sealing compound. This type of battery generally has a lower and an
upper cover, the vent tube being attached or removable, depending on
the design. The compound is poured on top of the lower cover and
around the vent tube, and the top covers are then put on. Most of the
batteries of this type have a thin hard rubber sleeve shrunk on the
post where the compound comes in contact with it; this hard rubber
sleeve usually has several shallow grooves around it which increase
its holding power. This is good construction, provided everything else
is normal and the work properly done with a good stick-, compound.
There are a few single cover batteries with connecting straps close to
top of covers, and the compound is poured over the top of the straps.
See Fig. 262.
The second general type consists of single one-piece cover batteries
that have small channels or spaces around the covers next to the jars
into which the sealing compound is poured. This type of battery is the
most common type.
[Fig. 229 Pouring compound on lower covers]
Compound in bulk or in thin iron barrels can be cut into small pieces
with a hatchet or hand ax. To cut off a piece in hot weather, strike
it a quick hard blow in the same place once or twice, and a piece will
crack off. Directions for properly beating sealing compound will be
found on page 150.
Sealing Double Cover Batteries
The following instructions apply to batteries having double covers.
These are more difficult to seal than the single cover batteries. If
you can seal the double cover batteries well, the single cover
batteries will give you no trouble.
Always start the fire under the compound before you are ready to use
it, and turn the fire lower after it has melted, so as not to have it
too hot at the time of pouring. If you have a special long nosed
pouring ladle, fill it with compound by dipping in the pot, or by
pouring compound from a closed vessel. If you heat the compound in an
iron kettle, pour it directly into pouring ladle, using just about
enough for the first pouring. The compound should not be too hot, as a
poor sealing job battery will result from its use. See page 150.
Before sealing, always wipe the surfaces to be sealed with a rag wet
with ammonia or soda solution, rinsed with water, and wiped dry with a
rag or waste. If you fail to do this the compound will not stick well,
and a top leak may develop. Then run a soft lead burning flame over
the surfaces to be sealed, in order to have perfectly dry surfaces.
Remember that sealing compound will not stick to a wet surface.
[Fig. 230 First pouring of sealing compound]
[Fig. 231 Cooling compound with electric fan]
Pour compound on the lower covers, as in Fig. 229. Use enough to fill
the case just over the tops of the jars, Fig. 230. Then pour the rest
of the compound back in compound vessel or kettle. To complete the
job, and make as good a job as possible, take a small hot lead burning
flame and run it around the edges of case, tops of jars, and around
the posts until the compound runs and makes a good contact all around.
If you have an electric fan, let it blow on the compound a few minutes
to cool it, as in Fig. 231. Then the compound used for the second
pouring may be hotter and thinner than the first.
Fill the pouring ladle with compound, which is thinner than that used
in the first pouring, and pour within 1/16 inch of the top of the
case, being careful to get in just enough, so that-after it has
cooled, the covers will press down exactly even with the top of the
case, Fig. 232. It will require some experience to do this, but you
will soon learn just how much to use.
As soon as you have finished pouring, run the flame all around the
edges of the case and around the post, being very careful not to
injure any of the vent tubes. A small, hot-pointed flame should be
used. Now turn on the fan again to cool the compound.
[Fig. 232 Second pouring of sealing compound]
While the compound is cooling, get the cell connectors and terminal
connectors, put them in a two-quart granite stew pan, just barely
cover with water, and sprinkle a tablespoon of baking soda over them.
Set the stew pan over the fire and bring water to boiling point. Then
pour the water on some spot on a bench or floor where the acid has
been spilled. This helps to neutralize the acid and keep it from
injuring the wood or cement. Rinse off the connectors and wipe them
dry with a cloth, or heat them to dry them.
[Fig. 233 Pressing covers down to make them level with top
of case]
Now take the top covers, which must be absolutely clean and dry, and
spread a thin coat of vaseline over the top only, wiping off any
vaseline from the beveled edges. Place these covers right side up on a
clean board and heat perfectly limp with a large, spreading blow torch
flame. Never apply this flame to the under side of the top covers. The
purpose is to get the covers on top of the battery absolutely level,
and exactly even with the top of the case all around it, and to have
them sticking firmly to the compound. There is not an operation in
repairing and rebuilding batteries that requires greater care than
this one, that will show as clearly just what kind of a workman you
are, or will count as much in appearance for a finished job. If you
are careless with any of the detail, if just one bump appears on top,
if one top is warped, if one cover sticks above top of case, try as
you may, you never can cover it up, and show you are a first-class
workman. See that you have these four conditions, and you should not
have any difficulty after a little experience:
[Fig. 234 Pressing covers down around posts to make them
flush with top of case]
1. You must have just enough compound on top to allow the top covers
to be pressed down exactly even with upper edge of case.
2. The top covers must be absolutely clean and have a thin coat of
vaseline over their top, but none on the bevel edge.
3. A good sized spreading flame to heat quickly and evenly the tops to
a perfectly limp condition without burning or scorching them.
4. Procure a piece of 7/8-inch board 1-1/2 inches wide and just long
enough to go between handles of battery you are working on. Spread a
thin film of oil or vaseline all over it.
Having heated the covers and also the top surface of the compound
until it is sticky so that the covers may be put down far enough and
adhere firmly to it, place the covers in position. Then press the
covers down firmly with a piece of oiled wood, as in Fig. 233,
applying the wood sidewise and lengthwise of case until the top of
cover is exactly even with the top of the case. It may be necessary to
use the wood on end around the vent tubes and posts as in Fig. 234, to
get that part of the cover level. If the compound comes up between
covers and around the edges of the case, and interferes with the use
of the wood, clean it out with a screwdriver. You can then finish
without smearing any compound on the covers.
[Fig. 235 Wiping bottom of spoon filled with sealing
compound]
[Fig. 236 Filling cracks around covers with sealing
compound]
When you have removed the excess compound from the cracks around the
edges of the covers with the screwdriver, take a large iron spoon
which has the end bent into a pouring lip, and dip up from 1/2 to 2/3
of a spoonful of melted compound (not too hot). Wipe off the bottom of
the spoon, Fig. 235, and pour a small stream of compound evenly in all
the cracks around the edges of the covers until they are full, as in
Fig. 236. Do not hold the spoon too high, and do not smear or drop any
compound on top of battery or on the posts. No harm is done if a
little runs over the outside of the case, except that it requires a
little time to clean it off. A small teapot may be used instead of the
spoon. If you have the compound at the right temperature, and do not
put in too much at a time, you will obtain good results, but you
should take care not to spill the compound over covers or case.
[Fig. 237 Final operation of cleaning off excess compound]
After the last compound has cooled,--this requires only a few
minutes,--take a putty knife, and scrape off all the surplus
compound, making it even with the top of the covers and case, Fig.
.237. Be careful not to dig into a soft place in the compound with the
putty knife. If you have done your work right, and have followed
directions explicitly, you have scraped off the compound with one
sweep of the putty knife over each crack, leaving the compound smooth
and level. You will be surprised to see how finished the battery looks.
Some workmen pour hot compound clear to the top of the case and then
hurry to put on a cold, dirty top. What happens? The underside of the
cover, coming in contact with the hot compound, expands and lengthens
out, curling the top surface beyond redemption. As you push down one
corner, another goes up, and it is impossible to make the covers level.
Sealing Single Cover Batteries
Single cover batteries are scaled in a similar manner. The covers are
put in place before any compound is poured in. Covers should first be
steamed to make them soft and pliable. The surfaces which come in
contact with the sealing compound must be perfectly dry and free from
acid. Before pouring in any compound, run a soft flame over the
surfaces which are to be sealed, so as to dry them and warm them.
Close up all cracks between Jars and covers as already directed. Then
pour the cover channels half full of sealing compound, which must not
be too thin. Now run a soft flame over the compound until it flows
freely and unites with the covers and jars. Allow the compound to
cool.
For the second pouring, somewhat hotter compound may be used. Fill the
cover channels flush with the top of the case, and again run a soft
flame over the compound to make it flow freely and unite with the
covers, and to give it a glossy finish. If any compound has run over
on the covers or case, remove it with a hot putty knife.
Burning-on the Cell Connectors
With the covers in place, the next operation is to burn in the cell
connectors. Directions for doing this are given on page 213. If you
did not fill the jars with electrolyte before sealing the covers, do
so now. See page 364.
Marking the Battery
You should have a set of stencil letters and mark every battery you
rebuild or repair. Stamp "POS," "P," or "+" on positive terminal and
"NEG," "N," or on negative terminal. Then stamp your initials, the
date that you finished rebuilding the battery, and the date that
battery left the factory, on the top of the connectors. Record the
factory date, and type of battery in a book, also your date mark and
what was done to the battery. By doing this, you will always be able
to settle disputes that may arise, as you will know when you repaired
the battery, and what was done.
To go one step farther, keep a record of condition of plates, and
number of new plates, if you have used any. Grade the plates in three
divisions, good, medium and doubtful. The "doubtful" division will
grow smaller as you become experienced and learn by their appearance
the ones to be discarded and not used in a rebuilt battery. There is
no question that even the most experienced man will occasionally make
a mistake in judgment, as there is no way of knowing what a battery
has been subjected to during its life before it is brought to you.
Cleaning and Painting the Case
The next operation is to thoroughly clean the case; scrape off all
compound that has been spilled on it, and also any grease or dirt. If
any grease is on the case, wipe off with rag soaked in gasoline.
Unless the case is clean, the paint will not dry. Brush the sides and
end with a wire brush; also brighten the name plate. Then coat the
case with good asphaltum paint. Any good turpentine asphaltum is
excellent for this purpose. If it is too thick, thin it with
turpentine, but be sure to mix well before using, as it does not mix
readily. Use a rather narrow brush, but of good quality. Paint all
around the upper edge, first drawing the brush straight along the
edges, just to the outer edges of rubber tops. Now paint the sides,
ends and handles, but be careful not to cover the nameplate. To
finish, put a second, and thick coat all around top edge to protect
edge of case. Paint will soak in around the edge on top of an old case
more easily than on the body of the case as it is more porous.
Charging the Rebuilt Battery
With the battery completely assembled, the next step is to charge it
at about one-third of the starting or normal charge rate. For
batteries having a capacity of 80 ampere hours or more, use a current
of 5 amperes. Do not start the charge until at least 12 hours after
filling with electrolyte. This allows the electrolyte to cool. Then
add water to bring electrolyte up to correct level if necessary. The
specific gravity will probably at first drop to 1.220-1.240, and will
then begin to rise.
Continue the charge until the specific gravity and voltage do not rise
during the last 5 hours of the charge. The cell voltage at the end of
the charge should be 2.5 to 2.7, measured while the battery is still
on charge. Make Cadmium tests on both positive and negatives. The
positives should give a Cadmium reading of 2.4 or more. The negatives
should give a reversed reading of 0.175. The tests should be made near
the end of the charge, with the cell voltages at about 2.7. The
Cadmium readings will tell the condition of the plates better than
specific gravity readings. The Cadmium readings are especially
valuable when new plates have been installed, to determine whether the
new plates are, fully charged. When Cadmium readings indicate that the
plates are fully charged, and specific gravity readings have not
changed for five hours, the battery is fully charged. If you have put
in new plates, charge for at least 96 hours.
Measure the temperature of the electrolyte occasionally, and if it
should go above 110°F., either cut down the charging current, or take
the battery off charge long enough to allow the electrolyte to cool
below 90°F.
Adjusting the Electrolyte
If the specific gravity of the electrolyte is 1.280 to 1.300 at the
end of the charge, the battery is ready for testing. If the specific
gravity is below or above these figures, draw off as much electrolyte
as you can with the hydrometer. If the specific gravity is below
1.280, add enough 1.400 specific gravity electrolyte with the
hydrometer to bring the level up to the correct height (about 1/2 inch
above tops of plates). If the specific gravity is above 1.300, add
a-similar amount of distilled water instead of electrolyte. If the
specific gravity is not more than 15 points (.015) too low or too
high, adjust as directed above. If the variation is greater than this,
pour out all the electrolyte and add fresh 1.280 specific gravity
electrolyte.
After adjusting the electrolyte, continue the charge until the gravity
of all cells is 1.280-1.300, and there is no further change in gravity
for at least two hours. Then take the battery off charge and make a
final measurement of the specific gravity. Measure the temperature at
the same time, and if it varies more than 10° above or below 70°,
correct the hydrometer readings by adding one point (.001 sp. gr.) for
each 3 degrees above 70°, and subtracting one point (.001 sp. gr.) for
each 3 degrees below 70°. Be sure to wipe off any electrolyte which
you spilled on the battery in adjusting the electrolyte or measuring
the specific gravity. Use a rag dipped in ammonia, or baking soda
solution.
High Rate Discharge
Whenever you have time to do so, make a 20-minute high rate discharge
test on the rebuilt battery, as described on page 266. This test will
show up any defect in the battery, such as a poorly burned joint, or a
missing separator, and will show if battery is low in capacity. If the
test gives satisfactory results, the battery is in good condition, and
ready to be put into service, after being charged again to replace the
energy used by the test.
================================================================
CHAPTER 16.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
---------------------
EXIDE BATTERIES
Exide batteries may be classified according to their cover
constructions as follows:
1. Batteries with single flange covers, as shown in Figs. 15 and 238.
This class includes types DX, LX, LXR, LXRV, PHC, XC, XX, and XXV.
[Fig. 238 Exide Battery, partly disassembled]
2. Batteries with double flange covers, as shown in Fig. 242. This
class includes types MHA, KZ, KXD, LXRE, and XE. The cover
constructions are-described in Chapter 3.
All Exide batteries, except types KXD, LXRE, and XE, have burned-in
lead top connectors. All types have a removable sealing nut around
each post to make a tight joint between the post and cell cover, as
described on page 19. Formerly some Exide batteries had cell
connectors which were bolted to the cell posts, but this construction
is now obsolete. Types KXD, LXRE, and XE have cell connectors made of
flexible, lead coated copper strips.
Types DX, LX, LXR, LXRV, MHA, PHC, XC, XX, and XXV have been designed
and built to meet the requirements of starting, lighting and ignition
service for passenger automobiles and power boats.
Types KXD, LXRE, and XE have been especially developed to meet the
requirements of the starting, lighting and ignition service on motor
trucks and tractors.
Type KZ has been produced particularly for motorcycle lighting and
ignition service.
[Fig. 239 Exide Battery with Single Flange Cover]
Type Numbers
The type of an Exide battery is stamped on the battery name plate.
Thus, on one of the most popular Exide batteries is marked Type
3-XC-13-1. Other Exide batteries have different numerals and letters
in their type numbers, but the numerals., and letters are always
arranged in the same order as given above. The first numeral gives the
number of cells. The letters give the type of cell. The numerals
following the letters give the number of plates per cell. The last
numeral indicates the manner of arranging the cells in the battery
case. Thus, in the example given above, 3-XC-13-1 indicates that there
are three cells in the battery, that the type of cell is XC, that each
cell has 13 plates, and that the cells are arranged according to
method No. 1, this being a side to side assembly.
Methods of Holding Jars in Case
Two methods of holding Exide jars in the battery case are used:
1. Types MHA, KXD, LXRE, and XE have the jars separated by horizontal
wooden spacers, there being two spacers between adjoining jars.
Running horizontally between these two spacers are tie bolts which
pass through the case. These bolts are tightened after the jars are
placed in the case, thus pressing the sides of the case against the
jars and holding them in, place.
Types KXD, LXRE, and XE, in addition to the tie bolts, are secured in
the case by sealing compound beneath and around the jars. Each cell is
provided with two soft rubber buffers which are V shaped, and are
placed over the ridges in the bottom of the jars, thereby minimizing
the effect of shocks on the plates and separators which rest on the
buffers.
2. In types DX, LX, LXR, LXRV, PHC, XC, XX, and XXV, there are no
spacers between adjoining jars, and the jars simply fit tight in the
case. Should they not fit tight enough to hold them in place securely,
thin boards are inserted between the jars and the case to pack them in.
Type KZ has the three sets of plates in one jar, having three
compartments, with a three compartment cover.
Opening Exide Batteries
1. Drilling Off the Top Connectors. Do this as described on page 329.
For type KZ batteries use a 3/8 inch drill. For all other types use a
5/8 inch drill.
2. Removing Plates from Jars. Follow the general instructions on page
333.
Types DX, LX, LXR, LXRV, PHC, XC, XX, and XXV. In opening these
batteries, all of which have the single flange cover, you may remove
each cell complete from the case, and then draw out the plates; or you
may draw out the plates without taking out the jars. To remove the
complete cell, heat a thin bladed putty knife and work it down all
around the outside of the jar. Then lift out the complete cell by
pulling steadily on the cell posts with two pairs of gas pliers. The
battery should be placed on the floor when you do this, and you should
stand with one foot pressed against the side of the case.
If you do not wish to remove the complete cells, or should the jars
fit too tight in the case, unseal the covers and remove the plates
according to the instructions given on page 333.
Types KZ and MHA. These batteries have the double flanged cover.
Several methods may be used in removing the plates from the jars. In
each case, the top of the cell is cleaned, gas blown out of the vent
holes, and the sealing nuts removed before opening the cells.
[Fig. 240 Removing double flange exide cover]
First, a flame may be used to soften the sealing compound which is
placed in the slot formed by the two flanges of the cover. If you wish
to use a flame, first remove each complete cell from the case,
loosening the tie bolts that pass through the case to release the
jars. Then hit out each complete cell. Now get two strong boards which
are about one fourth inch longer than the height of the jar. See Fig.
240. Support the jar on these boards by resting the lower edge of the
sides of the cover on the top edge of the boards. Then run a moderate
flame around the outside of the flange until the cover is soft, and
the compound melting. Then press down on the cell posts with your
thumbs, and the jar and plates will drop free of the cover. The
plates are then drawn out and rested on the top of the jars to drain,
as usual.
Another method is to remove the cells from the case and put them in
the battery steamer for ten minutes as described on page 332. Instead
of first taking the complete cells out of the case and then steaming
them separately, you may steam the entire battery for about ten
minutes, and then draw out the plates and cover of each cell with gas
pliers without removing the jars. This method must be used in opening
types KXD, LXRE, and XE, which have sealing compound under the jars.
Work on Plates, Separators, Jars, and Case
Having opened the battery, follow the instructions given on pages 335
to 361 for examination of plates and separators, and all work on
plates, jars, separators, and case.
Reassembling Plates
[Fig. 241 Upsetting threads to prevent nut from turning]
First slip the positive and negative groups together without
separators. Then wipe the posts with a rag moistened with ammonia,
rinse them with water, and dry thoroughly with a clean rag. Next slip
the soft rubber washers over the posts and place the cover in
position. Lubricate the lead sealing nuts with graphite that has been
mixed to a paste with water. Do not use grease or vaseline to
lubricate these nuts. Then put on the sealing nuts and tighten them
partly with your fingers.
You are now ready to insert the separators as directed on page 361.
Types MHA, PHC, KXD, KZ, LXR, LXRE, LXRV, XX, and XXV have, in
addition to the usual wooden separators, perforated rubber sheets,
which should be placed against the grooved side of each wooden
separator before inserting, and insert with rubber sheet against the
positives.
Make a careful examination to see that you have not left out any
separators.
When the separators are all in place, even them up on each side. Then
tighten the sealing nuts with the special Exide wrench. When you have
turned the nuts down tight, lock them in place by driving a center
punch on the threads on the post just above the nut, Fig. 241. This
will damage the thread and prevent the nut from turning loose.
Putting Plates In Jars
The next step is to lower the plates into the jars, as described on
page 362. In types KXD, LXRE, and XE be sure to first replace the two
soft rubber buffers in the bottom of the jar, one over each ridge.
Filling Jars With Electrolyte
As soon as you have an element in place in the jar, fill the jar with
electrolyte of the proper strength, as described on page 364, to
prevent the separators and plates from drying. The negatives,
especially, must be covered with electrolyte to prevent them from
heating and drying.
Sealing Exide Battery Covers
[Fig. 242 Laying "worm" of sealing compound]
[Image: Chart showing capacity of Exide batteries]
For Types DX, LX, LXR, LXRV, PHC, XC, XX, and XXV, which have the
single flange type of cover, slowly heat the sealing compound until it
runs, but do not get it so thin that it will run down into the cell
between the cover and jar. Then pour it into the channel between cover
and jar walls. Allow it to cool and finish it off flush with a hot
knife. When pouring, be sure the compound is liquid and not lumpy, as
in such a case a poor seal will result. A glossy, finished appearance
may be given to the compound by passing a flame over it after the job
is finished.
For Types KXD, KZ, LXRE, MHA, and XE, which have the double flange
type of cover, have ready a string or worm of sealing compound about
3-16 inch in diameter, made by rolling between boards some of the
special compound furnished for the purpose. The cover may or may not
have been attached to the element, depending on how repairs have been
made. In either case the procedure is the same as far as sealing is
concerned. Assuming the element is attached, stand it upside down,
with the cover resting upon two strips, Fig. 242. Lay the string of
compound all around the cover channel. Now turn right side up and
insert in the jar, taking care that the jar walls enter the cover
channels at all points. Apply heat carefully to the edges of the cover
and gently force cover clown. If too much compound has been used, so
that it squeezes out around the cover, scrape off the excess with a
hot knife while forcing cover down.
Putting Cells In Case
When the covers have all been sealed, put the cells in the case,
taking care to put the negative and positive posts in their proper
positions, so that each cell connector will connect a positive to a
negative post.
In Types MHA, KXD, LXRE, and XE, which have wooden spacers between the
cells, take care that the spacers are in position and then, after
cells are in place, tighten the tie bolts with a screw driver to clamp
the jars.
In Types DX, LX, LXR, LXRV, SX, XC, XX, and XXV the cells should fit
tight in the case; pack them in with thin boards if necessary.
Burning on the Cell Connectors
See instructions on pages 213 to 216.
Charging After Repairing
See also instructions on page 373.
Not sooner than ten to fifteen hours after filling battery with
electrolyte, add electrolyte to restore level if it has fallen.
U. S. L. BATTERIES
The instructions for rebuilding batteries which have already been
given, pages 328 to 374, apply also to all U. S. L. batteries. In
working on the old U. S. L. batteries, illustrated in Fig. 243, draw
out the electrolyte down to the tops of the plates so that the
electrolyte is below the lower end of the vent tube. Then blow out any
gas which may have collected under the cover with compressed air or
bellows. Never fail to do this, as there is only a small vent hole in
the cover through which the gas can escape, the vent tubes extending
down into the electrolyte when the cells are properly filled.
[Fig. 243 Cross section of old type USL battery]
[Fig. 244 Cross section of new type USL battery]
Fig. 244 shows the new U. S. L. cover construction. Note that the
special cell filling device is no longer used. U. S. L. batteries have
lead bushings moulded into the cover. These bushings fit around the
posts, and are burned to the posts and top connectors, Figs. 243 and
244, thus giving leak proof joints between the cover and the posts. In
burning on the connectors, melt bottom edge of hole first, then top of
post and cover bushing, and melt in your burning lead slowly.
[Image: Chart showing capacity of USL batteries, Page 1]
[Image: Chart showing capacity of USL batteries, Page 2]
PREST-O-LITE BATTERIES
[Fig. 245 Old type Prest-O-Lite battery with lead bushings
that screw up into cover]
Some of the old Prest-O-Lite batteries have a lead bushing around the
post, Fig. 245, similar to the U. S. L. batteries. This will make a
perfectly tight seal, provided that you screw the bushing up tight.
The new types of Prest-O-Lite batteries have a "Peened" post seal,
special instructions for which follow.
The general instructions for rebuilding batteries given on pages 328
to 374 apply to Prest-O-Lite batteries in every respect. The "Peened"
post seal is, however, a special construction, and directions for
working on this seal are as follows:
[Fig. 246 Prest-O-Lite Element Locked]
All Prest-O-Lite batteries designated as Types WHN, RIJN, BHN, JFN,
KPN, and SHC, have a single moulded cover which is locked directly on
to the posts of the element. This feature is the result of forcing a
solid ring of lead from a portion of the post, projecting above the
cover, down into a deep chamfer in the top of the cover. Figs. 246 and
247 show this construction.
This construction makes a solid unit of the cover and element, which
does away with the sealing compound, washers, nuts, etc., for making
the acid tight seal around the posts.
The locking operation requires some special instructions and shop
equipment for assembly and all repairs which involve removal from and
replacement of the cover on the element.
The majority of battery repairs such as renewal of jars, separators,
straightening of plates, and removal of sediment, can be made without
separating the cover and element. In such cases the connectors are
drilled off, compound is softened and removed from around the covers
and the complete unit is removed from the cell. It may be handled
throughout the repair as a unit, and the cover serves as a bridge to
hold the plates of both groups in line just as they remain in the jar.
[Fig. 247 Sectional view of Prest-O-Lite battery with peened
post seal]
However, where the cover is broken or must be replaced for other
reasons, when plates have to be renewed, or the posts have been broken
off below the cover, the element and cover must be separated.
All the apparatus and special tools which are used in connection with
the locking, as well as the building-up, unlocking (freeing), and
rebuilding, of the posts in all Prest-O-Lite battery types are grouped
together and collectively termed the type "N" Post Locking Outfit.
This outfit, complete, is carried in stock at all Prest-O-Lite
warehouses under the part number 27116. Each of the individual parts
or tools also has a separate part number and may be bought separately.
Prest-O-Lite Type "N" Post Locking Outfit
Arbor Press (complete with following 12 parts) 27115
Main Casting 27114
Latch 27107
Bed Plate 27113
Lever 27108
Rack 27211
Washer 27112
Pinion Shaft 27110
Pinion 27109
Latch Pin 27111
*Special CLN & KPN Spacer 27233
*Special CLN & KPN Latch 27232
*Special CLN & KPN Bed Plate 27234
Large Peening Tool (9-21 RHN, WHN, BHN, SHC, KPN, CLN; 11-17 JFN) 27101
Small Peening Tool (7-WHN, RHN, SHC; 9-JFN) 27100
Peening Tool for small terminal posts in which are east threaded
brass inserts (Columbia) 27105
Large Post Freeing Tool 27103
Small Post Freeing Tool 27102
No. 8 Post Freeing Tool (13/16" diameter straight post) 27123
[1] Large Post Re-Builder
(9-21 RHN, WHN, BHN, SHC, KPN, CLN; 11-17 JFN) 27005
[1] Small Post Re-Builder (7-WHN, RHN, SHC; 9-JFN) 27004
[2] Ford Positive Post Builder 27006
[2] Ford Negative Post Builder 27224
2 No. 8 Post Builder (13/16" diameter straight post) 27225
Style "B" Prest-O-Lite Torch, with six feet of red gum tubing A-3116
Automatic Reducing Valve A-427
COMPLETE TYPE "N" OUTFIT including all parts above 27116
* The CLN and KPN Spacer block, bent Latch and Bed Plate are special
parts used only in the Arbor Press when it is especially assembled to
lock CLN or KPN posts.
[1] The Re-Builder is used to build up posts before attempting to lock
on the cover. The replacing of the metal cut away from the original
diameter of the post when the jar cover was removed is necessary to
the correct operation of the Peening Tool.
[2] The Builder is used to build up posts, after they have been locked
and shaped by the Peening Tool, to a size large enough to take some
special terminal. For example, the Ford Positive Post Builder is used
in building up posts, locked by the Large Peening Tool, to the proper
size to take the Ford positive terminal.
The Automatic Reducing Valve delivers the gas from the P-O-L tank at a
uniform pressure of 3 pounds per square inch, whether the tank is
full, half empty, or nearly empty, and regardless of the volume of gas
used. The volume or flow of gas is regulated by the key.
The style "B" torch mixes the pure acetylene from the gas tank with
the proper amount of air necessary to an efficient heating flame.
The heating flame is conducted or delivered to the Peening Tool by the
short length of brass tubing known as the Torch-Holder, over which the
"B" Torch is pressed by hand in completing the assembly.
[Fig. 248 Special Prest-O-Lite Peening Press]
Both the "B" Torch and the Automatic Reducing Valve are absolutely
essential to the use of the Prest-O-Lite gas tank for heating the
Peening Tool.
Prest-O-Lite gas tanks, style A, B, C, or E, may be used in connection
with the Automatic Reducing Valve, as shown in Fig. 248. To use a
welding size gas tank it is necessary to insert a "W to A" Adapter
between the tank and Reducing Valve. This Adapter can be purchased
from the Prest-O-Lite Co., Inc.
The Arbor Press when received by the Service Station is fully
assembled, ready for mounting and operation with all P-O-L locked post
types except CLN and KPN.
Mount the Press in a vertical position (Fig. 248) in a convenient
place and at an accessible height on a wall or post. Holes are
provided in the Press for mounting by lag screws or bolts. The
position of the Peening Tool should be well below the level of the
eyes, to prevent serious injury from a possible spattering of
overheated lead.
Screw the proper size Peening Tool into the bottom of the Press rack,
as shown in Fig. 248. The Torch-Holder must be removed from the
Peening Tool to do this; it should be immediately replaced.
In using the Press to lock CLN or KPN posts it is necessary to remove
the Bed Plate and the Latch, and replace these parts with the Special
Bed Plate and Special Latch provided for this purpose, using the
spacing block or Spacer (also provided) between the Special Bed Plate
and the bottom of the Press.
[Fig. 249 Reaming Prest-O-Lite peened post to remove cover]
Connect the "B" Torch to the Peening Tool. The Torch is merely pressed
by the hand over the Torch-Holder.
Connect the Torch with the Automatic Reducing Valve on the gas tank by
the rubber tubing, and turn on the gas and light. The flame should be
blue and hot.
Allow the Peening Tool to become just hot enough to melt the end of a
piece of 50-50 solder. Do not allow it to get any hotter than this.
The tool is then ready for use. The flame may be left on while the
Tool is in use. In case the Tool becomes too hot turn the flame off
and allow it to cool to the proper temperature before using.
To Remove Cell Covers from Elements
Drill off cell connectors and terminals as usual. Insert the proper
size Freeing Tool (or reamer), furnished with the outfit, in an
ordinary hand-power drill press or bit-and-brace. With this reamer
remove the ring of metal or flange on the post, thereby releasing the
cell cover. Fig. 249. The Freeing Tool should not be used in a
power-driven press, as slow speed is essential to prevent breaking
cell covers. To get the best results, center the Freeing Tool over the
post, gradually forcing it down, at the same time keep it turning
slowly until the ring of metal which locks the post in the cover has
been removed. A little machine oil should be put on the metal directly
under the tool for this operation. After the metal ring has been
removed, the cover can be easily lifted off the posts, Fig. 250.
[Fig. 250 Removing Prest-O-Lite cover]
[Fig. 251 Building up posts on Prest-O-Lite element]
The use of the Freeing Tool in removing the cell cover cuts away a
certain amount of metal from the diameter of the posts. Before these
posts can be relocked by the Peening Tool in replacing the cell cover
they must be built up in size or diameter again so that there will be
enough lead to insure a tight joint.
To Rebuild Posts
Thoroughly clean the post. Place the proper Post Re-Builder so that it
rests on the shoulder of the post, and run in enough new lead to fill
the Re-Builder. Fig. 251. Be sure and bring the lead surface of the
post into fusion before the new lead is run in, to insure a strong
post.
To build a smooth, solid post, be sure that the post is thoroughly
clean; then use a hot flame.
To Lock or Peen Posts
(1) Assemble positive and negative groups without separators, and
paint the posts (just above the shoulder) with hot sealing compound.
(2) Prepare the cell covers by immersing them in hot water until they
are flexible.
(3) Place a warmed cover over the posts of the two assembled groups
(the elements). Fig. 252.
[Fig. 252 Replacing Prest-O-Lite cover on built-up posts]
(4) Slide the element over the Bed Plate directly under Peening Tool,
with the bottom of the plate connectors resting on the Bed Plate. (See
Fig. 253).
(5) Pull down the Latch to hold the Bed Plate in alignment.
(6) Center the post with Peening Tool. Then force the Peening Tool
down slowly until it has covered about two-thirds of the distance to
the cover. Pause in this operation to allow the metal of the post to
become heated; then force tool the rest of the distance. Raise the
Peening Tool slightly and force down again.
(7) Release the Latch, withdraw and reverse the element, and repeat
operations 4, 5 and 6 on the other post.
(8) The assembled groups are now ready to receive separators.
[Fig. 253 Peening Prest-O-Lite post with special peening press]
Precautions in Post Locking Operations
1--Be sure all covers are warmed until they are flexible before
attempting to assemble.
2--Be sure that the Peening Tool is not too hot. If it is, the post
will melt away and be ruined. A very hot tool sometimes causes
dangerous spattering of hot lead.
3--Be sure that the post is centered with the Peening Tool before
forcing the Tool down on the post.
4--Be sure the cover has been forced down, so that it rests on the
shoulder of the post, before releasing.
General Instructions
In breaking in a new Peening Tool it is advisable to squirt several
drops of machine oil inside the Tool, as well as putting some oil on
the top of the post, before forcing the hot Tool down over the post.
This will prevent the Tool from sticking to the post.
If the Peening Tool should stick to the post, force the Tool down
again, being certain that the cover is slightly compressed. Sticking
of the Peening Tool indicates either that the Tool has not yet been
broken in, or that there is not sufficient compression in the cover to
free the Tool on releasing the pressure on the lever of the Press.
To repair the 13/16" diameter straight terminal post, the Ford
positive terminal post, the Ford negative terminal post, it is good
practice to remove the cover in the usual manner, then cut the upper
portion of the posts off and rebuild them with the large Post
Re-Builder. Reassemble the element and cover in the recommended manner
and then use the proper Post Builder to burn the post to its original
size.
Standard Types of Prest-O-Lite Starting, Lighting and Ignition
Batteries
[Image: Chart for Prest-O-Lite starting batteries, 6-volt]
[Image: Chart for Prest-O-Lite starting batteries, 12-volt]
[Image: Chart for Prest-O-Lite starting batteries, 16-18-24
and 30-volt]
[Image: Chart for Prest-O-Lite special heavy duty truck
batteries for starting and light; Chart for 6-volt
lighting and ignition types]
THE PHILADELPHIA DIAMOND GRID BATTERY
Old Type
[Fig. 254 Cross section of old type Philadelphia diamond grid
battery]
Figs. 254 and 255 show the construction of the old type Philadelphia
Diamond Grid. Battery. Figs. 254 and 256 show the diamond shaped grid
from which the battery derives its name. It is claimed that this
construction gives a very strong grid, holding the active materials
firmly in place, and giving a large amount of contact surface between
the grid and the active material.
Figs. 254 and 255 show the old type battery, and give the details of
the cover, terminal posts, vent plug, and so on. The post seal is made
tight by pouring the compound into the cover well so that it flows in
around all of the petticoats on the post.
[Fig. 255 Cross section old type Philadelphia Diamond Grid]
This construction increases the distance that the acid must travel
along the post, in order to cause a leak, about two and one-half times
the vertical distance on a smooth post. The hard rubber washer which
fits around the post acts as a lock to prevent the post from turning.
This applies especially to the two terminal posts to which the cables
are attached. The washer is intended to prevent any strain in the
cable from turning the post and breaking the seal between the post and
the compound.
New Development in the Philadelphia Battery
[Fig. 256 Cross section new type Philadelphia battery]
[Fig. 257 New type Philadelphia Diamond Grid Battery]
Rubber Lockt Seal Covers. During the last few years there has been a
marked tendency in the battery industry to do away with the use of
sealing compound for making a joint between the cell cover and the
terminal posts and to substitute a mechanical seal of some kind at
this joint. The Philadelphia Storage Battery Co. has developed the
"Rubber Lockt". cover seal, the construction of which is shown in
detail in Figs. 256 and 257. On the cell posts there is a. flange
which supports the cover, and above this there is a recessed portion
into which is slipped a soft rubber sleeve or bushing. This portion of
the post is made with a ridge extending around the post and with the
rubber sleeve forming a high point over which a corresponding locking
edge in the terminal hole of the cover is snapped. This construction
makes a joint which is flexible and at the same time acid tight.
Vibration tends to push the cover down on the supporting flanges, as
the post diameter is smaller below the locking edge. The design is
simple, both from the assembly and the repair standpoint, as no tools
are required for either operation. In the assembly operation the
groups are lined up so that the post centers are correct and, after
wetting the soft rubber sleeves, the cover is snapped in place with a
quick downward push. See Fig. 258. In removing the covers, catch under
each end with the fingers and pull upward, at the same time pressing
with the thumbs on the top of the posts. See Fig. 259.
[Fig. 258 Replacing cover of Philadelphia Diamond Grid Battery]
[Fig. 259 Removing cover of Philadelphia Diamond Grid Battery]
Rubber Case Batteries. Another development of recent years consists of
the replacing of the wood case and rubber jars by a one-piece
container of hard rubber with compartments for the elements The
Philadelphia Storage Battery Co. has developed the Diamond Rubber
case, which combines strength and lightness with an attractive
appearance. See Fig. 260. One of the troubles experienced with the
earlier designs of the rubber case was the bulging of the end, due to
the pull of the battery hold down rod on a small handle attached to
the center of the end. In the Philadelphia battery this has been
overcome by the use of a wide handle which snaps into openings in the
end of the case in such a way that the pull on the handle is
transferred to the sides. Another feature of this type handle is that
it is a separate piece snapped into the case without the use of any
metal insert in the rubber case, and if the handle should break, it
can be replaced at small expense without the use of any tools.
[Fig. 260 Philadelphia Diamond Grid Battery with rubber case]
The Philadelphia vent plug is of the bayonet type, and is tightened by
a quarter turn. The plug simply has a small vent hole in the top, and
may either be taken out or left on while battery is charging.
The Philadelphia Separator
The Philadelphia separator is made of quarter sawed hardwood. It has a
hard resinous wood in which the hard and soft portions occur in
regular alternating vertical layers. The soft layers are porous, and
permit the diffusion of the acid from plate to plate. The hard layers
give the separator stiffness and long life. The alternating hard and
soft layers are at right angles to the surface of the separator, so
that the electrolyte has a direct path between plates.
The methods of repairing Philadelphia Diamond Grid batteries are no
different from those already given, on pages 328 to 374.
When the elements of the old type batteries have been assembled and
returned to the jars, put the covers in place, and pour the compound
around the edges of the cover, and in the post wells. The old compound
must be removed from the petticoats on the posts before new compound
is poured in. The compound must be warm and thin enough to flow around
and fill up the petticoat spaces on the posts in order to get a good
seal. When the post wells are full of compound, and while compound is
still warm, put on the square sealing washers and press them down so
that the holes in the washers fit closely around the octagonal part of
the posts.
THE EVEREADY STORAGE BATTERY
It is claimed by the manufacturers that the sulphate which forms in
the Eveready battery during discharge always remains in the porous,
convertible form, and never crystallizes and becomes injurious, even
though the battery is allowed to stand idle on open circuit for a
considerable length of time. Due to this fact, the Eveready battery is
called a "Non-Sulphating Battery."
The manufacturers state that Eveready batteries which have stood idle
or in a discharged condition for months do not suffer the damages
which usually result from such treatment, namely: buckling, and
injurious sulphation. The plates do become sulphated, but the sulphate
remains in the porous, non-crystalline state in which it forms.
Charging such a battery at its normal rate is all that is necessary to
bring it back to its normal, healthy condition. Due to the excessive
amount of sulphate which forms when the battery stands idle or
discharged for a long time, it is necessary to give the battery 50
percent overcharge to remove all the sulphate and bring the battery
back to a healthy working condition. The colors of the plates are good
guides as to their condition at the end of the charge. The positives
should be free from blotches of white sulphate, and should have a dark
brown or chocolate color. The negatives should have a bright gray or
slate color.
Description of Parts
Eveready plates are of two general types. Plates of the R type are
each provided with two feet on lower ends, the positive set and the
negative set resting on two separate pairs of bridges in the jars,
thereby preventing the sediment which accumulates on top of bridges
from short circuiting a cell.
Plates of the M type, instead of having feet, are cut away where they
pass over the bridges of the opposite group. See Fig. 261. This
construction secures a greater capacity for a given space, and gives
the same protection against short circuit from sediment as the foot
construction does, since the same amount of sediment must accumulate
with either type of plate to cause a short circuit.
[Fig. 261 Type "M" Eveready grid]
The separators used in Eveready batteries are made of cherry wood
because it is a hard wood which will resist wear, is of uniform
texture, even porosity, and has a long life in a given degree and
condition of acid.
Eveready cherry wood separators go to the repair man in a dry
condition, as they do not require chemical treatment. Separators when
received should be soaked in 1.250 specific gravity acid for four days
or longer in order to expand them to proper size and remove natural
impurities from the wood. After being fully expanded they should be
stored moist as previously described. Stock separators may be kept
indefinitely in this solution and can be used as required. Fig. 262
shows the top construction in the Eveready battery.
[Fig. 262 Eveready Battery, cell connectors covered by compound]
Cell connectors are heavily constructed and are sealed over solidly
with a flexible sealing compound, Fig. 262. Two types of cell
connectors are used-the crescent and the heavy or "three way" type.
Repairing Eveready Batteries
To properly open and re-assemble an Eveready battery, proceed as
follows:
1. Take a hot putty knife and cut the compound from the top of each of
the inter-cell connectors until the entire top of the connector is
exposed.
2. Center punch tops of cell connectors and terminal posts.
3. Drill off cell connectors. In drilling off crescent cell connector
use 1/2 inch drill, and for heavy type connector use 5/8 inch drill.
Drill deep enough, usually 3/8 to 1/2 inch, until a seam between
connector and post is visible around lower edge of hole. Having
drilled holes in both ends of connector, heat connector with soft
flame until compound adhering to it becomes soft. Then take a 1/2 inch
or 5/8 inch round iron or bolt, depending on connector to be removed,
insert in one of the holes, and pry connector off with a side to side
motion, being careful not to carry this motion so far as to jam
connector into top of jar.
4. After connectors have been removed, steam and open the battery, as
described on pages 332 to 335.
5. Examine plates, and handle them as described on pages 335 to 355.
Remember, however, that Eveready plates which show the presence of
large amounts of sulphate, even to the extent of being entirely
covered with white sulphate, should not be discarded. A battery with
such plates should be charged at the normal rate, and given a 50
percent overcharge.
6. Before re-assembling plate groups preparatory to assembling the
battery, take negative and positive plate groups and build up the
posts with the aid of a post builder to their original height.
Assemble groups in usual manner, taking care that posts on straps are
in proper position relative to group in adjoining cell, so that cell
connectors will span properly. Eveready batteries use a right and left
hand strap for both positive and negatives, making it necessary to use
only one length of cell connector.
7. After inserting assembled plate groups into battery in their proper
relation as to polarity, heat rubber covers to make them fairly
pliable and fit them over posts and into top of jar, pressing them
down until they rest firmly on top of plate straps. See that covers
are perfectly level and that vent tubes are perpendicular and all at
same height above the plates.
8. Heat compound just hot enough so that it will flow. Pour first
layer about one quarter inch thick, being careful to cover entire jar
cover. Take a soft flame and seal compound around edges of jar and
onto posts.
9. Now proceed to burn on top connectors. Cell connectors need only be
cleaned in hole left by post, and top of each end.
10. While burning in cell connectors the first layer of compound will
have cooled sufficiently to permit the second layer to be applied.
This should be done immediately after burning on connectors and while
they are still hot. Also heat the terminal posts, as compound will
adhere to hot lead more readily than to cold.
Start second layer of compound by pouring it over cell connectors and
terminal posts, first filling in with sufficient compound to bring
level just above the tops of jars. Apply flame, sealing around edges
of wood case, being particularly careful to properly seal terminal
posts. Let this layer cool thoroughly before applying third layer.
11. The third layer of compound should be applied in the same way as
second layer, pouring on connectors and terminal posts first, and
filling in to the level of top of wood ease. The spaces between bars
of cell connectors will fill and flow over properly if second layer
has been allowed to cool and if cell connectors have not been burned
up too high. In sealing last layer with flame, care should be taken
not to play flame on compound too long as this hardens and burns the
compound. Burned compound has no flexibility and will crack readily in
service, thus causing the battery to become a "slopper." In pouring
compound be sure to have battery setting level so that compound will
come up even on all edges of case. Do not move battery after pouring
last layer until thoroughly cool.
Before installing battery on car be sure that no compound, etc., has
been allowed to get onto taper of terminal post, as this will make a
poor connection. If this has happened, clean with medium grade
sandpaper.
VESTA BATTERIES
[Fig. 263 Vesta grid with 3-piece isolator]
Vesta Isolators. The Vesta plate embodies in its design devices which
are intended to hold the plates straight and thus eliminate the
buckling and short-circuiting which form a large percentage of battery
trouble. Fig. 263 shows clearly the construction of the old type of
plate. Each isolator used in the old type of plate consists of two
notched strips of celluloid, with a plain celluloid strip between
them. The notches are as wide as the plates are thick, the teeth
between the notches fitting into the spaces between plates, thus
holding the plates at the correct distances apart. The plain celluloid
strip holds the notched strips in place. At each corner of the Vesta
plate is a slot into which the isolator fits, as shown in Fig. 263.
Since the teeth on the two notched pieces of each isolator hold the
plates apart, they cannot "cut-out" or "short-out" by pinching
through the wooden separators, or "impregnated mats" as they are
called by the Vesta Company.
The celluloid of which the isolators are made are not attacked by the
electrolyte at ordinary temperatures. At higher temperatures, however,
the electrolyte slowly dissolves the isolators. The condition of the
isolator, therefore, may be used to determine whether the temperature
of the electrolyte has been allowed to rise above 100° Fahrenheit.
The Vesta Type "D" Battery
The appearance of a group of the new Type "D" construction is shown in
Fig. 265, where Type "C" and Type "D" groups are illustrated side by
side for purposes of comparison. It will be seen that the "D" isolator
is of one piece only (shown separately in Fig. 266). The material is a
heavy hard rubber stock which will be no more affected by acid or by
electrical conditions in the cell than the hard rubber battery jar
itself. The indentations on the two edges of isolator engage in hook
shaped lugs on plate edges (Fig. 267 shows these clearly) and lock the
plates apart fully as efficiently as the three-piece construction.
[Fig. 264 Cross section, Vesta Isolator Battery, type C]
There are a number of important advantages which have been gained by
the new method of isolation. The illustration (Fig. 265) shows how the
"D" isolator permits the separators to completely cover and project
slightly beyond the edges of the plates, whereas in the old
construction there is an edge just above the isolators where the
plates are not covered. This improvement means protection against
shorts due to flaking, always so likely to occur during the summer
"overcharging" season. Overcharging is, of course, a form of abuse,
and Type "D" batteries are designed to meet this sort of service.
Another great advantage gained is in the arrangement of lugs, It will
be noted that the positive isolator hooks are in alignment, as are the
negative hooks, but that these two rows, of opposite polarity, are
separated from each other by the full width of the isolator; whereas
in the Type "C" construction the outer edges of the plates, of
opposite polarity, were separated only by the usual distance between
plates.
[Fig. 265 Vesta elements: showing old 3-piece celluloid isolator and
new one-piece hard rubber isolator]
[Fig. 267 Vesta plates type U and DJ]
[Fig.268 Inserting Vesta hard rubber isolator]
The new isolator is simple to insert and remove. Being made of hard
rubber, it will soften and become pliable if a sufficient degree of
heat is applied. The heat required is approximately 150° to 160°F., a
temperature far above that reached by any battery cell, even under the
most extravagant condition of abuse, but readily attained in the shop
by means of a small flame of any kind-even a match will do in an
emergency. The flame (which should be of the yellow or luminous
variety, as the blue flame tends to scorch the rubber) is played
lightly over the isolator a few seconds. The rubber becomes soft and
is then removed by inserting under the end of the isolator any narrow
tool, such as a small screw driver, a wedge point, chisel, etc., and
prying gently. In replacing isolators, a small hot plate is convenient
but not at all necessary. The isolators are placed on the hot plate,
or held in a luminous flame, until soft enough to bend. They are then
bent into an arched shape, as shown in Fig. 268, and quickly fitted
into place under the proper lugs. The regular isolator spacing tool is
convenient and helpful in maintaining the plates at uniform intervals
while this operation is carried out. The job is completed by pressing
down the still warm isolator with any handy piece of metal having a
flat edge that will fit the distance between the lugs (Fig. 269). The
shank of a screw driver does splendidly for this work. The pressure
causes the isolator to straighten out, and the indentations fit snugly
under the respective hooks on the plates. At the same time the contact
with the cold metal chills the rubber to its normal hard condition. It
is especially to be noted that the entire operation of isolator
removal and replacement can be carried out with none but the commonest
of shop tools.
[Fig. 269 Pressing down Vesta hard rubber isolator]
[Fig. 270 Complete vesta battery]
All of the "U" size batteries have been changed to Type "D," so that
all "CU" types are superseded by corresponding "DU's." Type "D" will
not be used on cells of sizes "L," "H," or "A", all of which remain of
the "C" or three-piece isolator construction. Type "S" remains old
style as before.
Type "DJ"
The Vesta Company has added a new plate size, produced in the "D"
style (one-piece) isolator only, and known as "DJ."
This plate is one-half inch higher than the "U," as shown in Fig. 267.
It has 10 per cent more capacity. "DJ" batteries are available in all
forms corresponding with "CU" types, and can be obtained by merely
changing the type form name in ordering, as for example, to replace
form 150, 6-DJ11-Y-150. The overall height of the completed battery
is, of course, one-half inch more, and the "DJ" should therefore be
ordered only when this additional height space is available in the
battery compartment of the car.
Vesta Separators
The Vesta separators, or "mats," are treated by a special process. The
Vesta Company considers its "mats" a very important feature of the
battery. See page 15.
Vesta Post Seal
A lead collar fits over each post to hold the cover tight against the
soft rubber gasket underneath. This collar is not screwed or burned on
the post, but is simply pressed down over the post, depending for its
holding power upon the fact that two lead surfaces rubbing against
each other tend to "freeze," and unite so as to become a unit. The
connector rests upon the upper race of the collar, and also helps to
hold it down in its proper position. Fig. 270 shows the complete
battery with the lead collar, and the large vent plug.
In rebuilding Vesta batteries having the lead collars, the cover
should be left in place when working on the plates, if possible. If,
however, it is necessary to separate groups, and the lead collars must
be removed, this is done as shown in Fig. 271. A few blows on the side
of the collar with a light, two ounce hammer expands the lead collar
several thousands of an inch so that the collar may be removed.
[Fig. 271 Expanding lead collar of Vesta battery with light
hammer]
[Fig. 272 Placing soft rubber gasket over post of Vesta battery]
In replacing the covers, the lead collar must be forced down over the
post, and special pressure tongs are required for this purpose. Before
driving on the old collar, the post should be expanded slightly by
driving the point of a center-punch into the shoulder on the post.
Instead of expanding the shoulder a new collar may be used.
Fig. 272 shows the soft rubber gasket being placed over the post, and
shows the construction of the cover with its recess to fit the gasket.
Fig. 273 shows the lead collar being placed over the post after the
cover is in place.
Fig. 274 shows the special long lipped tongs required to force the
collar down on the post shoulder. One lip of the tongs has a hole into
which the post fits. The necessary driving force may be obtained by
applying pressure to the ends of the lips of the tongs With an
ordinary vise. This forces the cover down on the rubber gasket to make
the acid-tight seal.
[Fig. 273 Placing lead collar over post of Vesta battery]
[Fig. 274 Pressing lead collar over post of Vesta battery]
WESTINGHOUSE BATTERIES