It sometimes happens that a good plate is broken from a strap, thus
shortening the lug. Before the plate may be used again, the lug must
be extended to its original length. To do this, clean the surfaces of
the lug carefully, lay the plate on a sheet of asbestos, and place an
iron form having a slot of the correct width, length, and thickness,
as shown in Figure 150. Use a medium hissing flame, and melt the upper
edge of the lug, and then run in lead from the lead burning strip to
fill the slot in the iron form. The plate may then be used again.
[Fig. 150 Extending lug on plate]
Making Temporary Charging Connections
After a battery has been opened it is often desired to charge a
battery without burning on the intercell connectors. Temporary
connections may be made between cells by placing a short length of a
burning lead strip from post to post and applying a flame for an
instant to spot-weld the strip to the top of the post.
MOULDING LEAD PARTS
In using special moulds for casting inter-cell connectors, plate
straps with posts, terminals, etc., follow the special instructions
furnished by the manufacturers as to the manipulation of the special
moulds made by them.
Aside from the special instructions for the use of moulds, there are
general rules for the melting of lead and handling it after it is
melted, which must be observed if good castings are to be made.
Raw Materials. In every battery repair shop a supply of old terminals,
cell connectors, posts, and straps, will gradually accumulate. These
should not be thrown away or sold as junk, but should be kept in a box
or jar provided for that purpose. Old plates should not be saved,
since the amount of lead in the grid is small and it is often covered
with sulphate. The lugs connecting the plates to the straps may,
however, be used. Before using the scrap lead as much dirt as possible
should be brushed off, and all moisture must be dried off thoroughly.
Scrap lead contains some antimony, which is metal used to give
stiffness to the parts. Using miscellaneous scrap sometimes gives
castings which do not contain the proper percentage of antimony. If
there is too much antimony present, cracked castings will be the
result. To remedy this condition, bars of pure lead should be
purchased from some lead manufacturing company. Adding pure lead will
reduce the percentage of antimony. Bars of pure antimony should also
be kept oil hand in case the castings are too soft.
Lead Melting Pots are standard articles which may be purchased from
jobbers. A pot having a 25 pound capacity is suitable for small shops
and for larger shops a 125-pound size is best. Before melting any lead
in such pots, have them thoroughly free from dirt, grease, or
moisture, not merely in order to get clean castings, but also to avoid
melted lead being thrown out of the pot on account of the presence of
moisture. Severe burns may be the result of carelessness in this
respect.
In starting with an empty melting pot, turn oil the heat before
putting in any lead, and let the pot become thoroughly heated in order
to drive off any moisture. With the pot thoroughly hot, drop in the
lead, which must also be dry. When the metal has become soft enough to
stir with a clean pine stick, skim off the dirt and dross which
collects on top and continue heating the lead until it is slightly
yellow oil top. Dirt and lead do not mix, and the dirt rises to the
top of the metal where it may readily be skimmed off.
With a paddle or ladle, drop in a cleaning compound of equal parts of
powdered rosin, borax, and flower of sulphur. Use a teaspoonful of
this compound for each ten pounds of metal, and be sure that the
compound is absolutely dry. Stir the metal a little, and if it is at
the proper temperature, there will be a flare, flash, or a little
burning. A sort of tinfoil popcorn effect will be noticed oil top of
the lead. Stir until this melts down.
Have the ladle with which you dip up the melted lead quite dry. When
dipping up some of the lead, skim back the dark skin which forms oil
top of the lead and dip up the clean bright lead for pouring.
In throwing additional lead into a pot which is partly filled with
melted lead, be sure that the lead which is thrown in the pot is dry,
or else hot lead may be spattered in your face.
Have the moulds clean and dry. The parts with which the lead comes
into contact should be dusted with a mould compound which fills in the
rough spots in the metal so that the flow of lead will not be
obstructed, and the lead will fill the mould quickly. Dip tip enough
lead to fill the part of the mould you use. When you once start
pouring do not, under any circumstance, stop pouring until the lead
has completely filled the mould. Lead cools very quickly after it is
poured into the mould, and if you stop pouring even for all instant,
you will have a worthless casting.
In a shop having an ordinary room temperature, it is generally
unnecessary to heat the moulds before making up a number of castings.
If it is found, however, that the first castings are defective due to
the cold mould chilling the lead, the mould should be heated with a
soft flame. After a few castings have been made, the mould will become
hot enough so that there will be no danger of the castings becoming
chilled.
When the castings have cooled sufficiently to be removed, strike the
mould a few blows with a wooden mallet or a rawhide hammer to loosen,
the castings before opening the mould. The castings may then be
removed with a screwdriver.
Cracked castings indicate that the mould was opened before the
castings had cooled sufficiently, or that there is too much antimony
in the castings. The remedy is to let the castings cool for a longer
time, or to add pure lead to the melting pot.
HANDLING AND MIXING ACID
The electrolyte used in the battery is made by mixing chemically pure
concentrated Sulphuric Acid with chemically pure water. The
concentrated acid, or "full strength" acid cannot be used, not only
because it would destroy the plates, but also because water is needed
for the chemical actions which take place as a cell charges and
discharges. The water therefore serves, not only to dilute the acid,
but also to make possible the chemical reactions of charge and
discharge.
The full strength acid has a specific gravity of 1.835, and is mixed
with the water to obtain the lower specific gravity which is necessary
in the battery. The simplest scheme is to use only 1.400 specific
gravity acid. This acid is used in adjusting the specific gravity of a
battery on charge in case the specific gravity fails to rise to a high
enough value. It is also used in filling batteries that have been
repaired.
Acid is received from the manufacturer in ten gallon glass bottles
enclosed in wooden boxes, these being called "carboys." Distilled
water comes in similar bottles. When distilled in the shop, the water
should be collected in bottles also, although smaller ones may be used.
Neither the acid nor the water should ever be placed in any vessels
but those made of lead, glass, porcelain, rubber, or glazed
earthenware. Lead cups, tanks, and funnels may be used in handling
electrolyte, but the electrolyte must not be put in containers made of
any metal except lead. Lead is rather expensive for making such
containers, and the glass bottles, porcelain, rubber, or glazed
earthenware may be used.
In mixing acid with water, pour the water in the bottle, pitcher or
jar, and then add the acid to the water very slowly. Do not pour the
acid in quickly, as the mixture will become very hot, and may throw
spray in your face and eyes and cause severe burns. Never add the
water to the acid, as this might cause an explosion and burn your face
and eyes seriously. Stir the mixture thoroughly with a wooden paddle
while adding the acid. A graduate, such as is used in photography, is
very useful in measuring out the quantities of acid and water. The
graduate may be obtained in any size up to 64 ounces, or two quarts.
In using the graduate for measuring both acid and water, be sure to
use the following table giving the parts of water by volume. Although
the graduate is marked in ounces, it is for ounces of water only. If,
for instance, the graduate were filled to the 8 ounce mark with acid,
there would be more than eight ounces of acid in the graduate because
the acid is heavier than the water. But if the proportions of acid and
water are taken by volume, the graduate may be used.
A convenient method in making up electrolyte, is to have a 16 ounce
graduate for the acid, and a 32 or 64 ounce graduate for the water. In
the larger graduate pour the water up to the correct mark. In the 16
ounce graduate, pour 1.400 acid up to the 10 ounce mark. Then add the
acid directly to the water in the graduate, or else pour the water
into a bottle or pitcher, and add the acid to that. For instance, if
we have a 32 ounce graduate, and wish to make up some 1.280 acid, we
fill this graduate with water up to the 5-1/2 ounce mark. We then fill
the 16 ounce graduate with 1.400 acid up to the 10 ounce mark. Then we
slowly pour the 1.400 acid into the graduate containing the water,
giving us 1.280 acid. In a similar manner other specific gravities are
obtained, using the same amount of 1.400 acid in each case, but
varying the amount of water according to the figures given in the last
column of the next to the last table.
The following table shows the number of parts of distilled water to
one part of 1.400 specific gravity electrolyte to prepare electrolyte
of various specific gravities. The specific gravity of the mixture
must be taken when the temperature of the mixture is 70° F. If its
temperature varies more than 5 degrees above or below 70°F, make the
corrections described on page 65 to find what the specific gravity
would be if the temperature were 70° F.
BY WEIGHT
For 1.300 specific gravity use 5 ounces of distilled water for each
pound of 1.400 electrolyte.
For 1.280 specific gravity use 6-1/2 ounces of distilled water for
each pound of 1.400 electrolyte.
For 1.275 specific gravity use 6-3/4 ounces distilled water for each
pound of 1.400 electrolyte.
For 1.260 specific gravity use 7-1/2 ounces distilled water for each
pound of 1.400 electrolyte.
BY VOLUME
For 1.300 specific gravity use 3-1/2 pints distilled water for each
gallon of 1.400 electrolyte.
For 1.280 specific gravity use 4-1/2 pints distilled water for each
gallon of 1.400 electrolyte.
For 1.275 specific gravity use 5 pints distilled water for each gallon
of 1.400 electrolyte.
For 1.260 specific gravity use 5-1/4 pints distilled water for each
gallon of 1.400 electrolyte.
In case you wish to use other measuring units than those given in the
above table, this table may be written as follows, giving the number
of parts distilled water to 10 parts of 1.400 specific gravity
electrolyte:
Specific Gravity Desired Parts by Weight Parts by Volume
---------------- ----------------------- ---------------
1.300 3 4-1/4
1.280 4 5-1/4
1.275 4-1/6 6
1.260 4-7/10 6-1/2
The next table gives the number of parts of distilled water to 10
parts of concentrated sulphuric acid (which has a specific gravity of
1.835) to prepare electrolyte of various specific gravities:
Specific Gravity Desired Parts by Weight Parts by Volume
------------------------ --------------- ---------------
1.400 8-1/2 15-8/10
1.300 13-1/2 15-8/10
1.300 13-1/2 25
1.280 15 27
1.270 16 28
1.260 17 30
PUTTING NEW BATTERIES INTO SERVICE
New batteries are received (a) fully charged and ready for service,
(b) fully assembled with moistened plates and separators, but without
electrolyte, (c) in a "knockdown" condition, with dry plates and
without separators, (d) fully assembled with "bone dry" plates and
rubber separators, and without electrolyte.
Those received fully charged should be put on a car as soon as
possible. Otherwise they will grow old on the shelf. Every month on
the shelf is a month less of life. If the battery cannot be sold, put
it into dry-storage. Batteries received in condition (b) should not be
kept in stock for more than six months. Batteries received with dry
plates and without separators or with rubber separators may be stored
indefinitely without deteriorating.
Batteries Shipped Fully Charged, or "Wet." All Makes.
Unpack the battery, keeping the packing case right side up to avoid
spilling electrolyte.
Brush off all excelsior and dirt, and examine the battery carefully to
see if it has been damaged during shipment. If any damage has been
done, claim should be made against the express or railroad company.
1. Remove the vent caps from the cells and determine the height of the
electrolyte. It should stand from three-eighths to one-half inch above
the tops of the plates. The level may be determined with a glass tube,
as shown in Fig. 30. If the electrolyte is below the tops of the
plates, it has either been spilled, or else there is a leaky jar. If
all cells have a low level of electrolyte, it is probable that the
electrolyte has been spilled.
2. Next measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte of each cell
with the hydrometer, and then add water to bring the electrolyte up to
the correct level, if this is necessary. Should the temperature of the
air be below freezing, charge the battery for an hour if water is
added no matter what the specific gravity readings are. This will
cause the water to mix thoroughly with the electrolyte. If the battery
were not charged after water is added, the water, being lighter than
the electrolyte, would remain on top and freeze. For this one hour
charge, use the "starting" rate, as stamped on the nameplate.
3. If the specific gravity of the electrolyte reads below 1.250,
charge the battery until the specific gravity reads between 1.280 and
1.300. For this charge use the normal bench charging rates.
4. After this charge place the battery on a clean, dry spot for
twenty-four hours as an extra test for a leaky jar. If there is any
dampness under the battery, or on the lower part of the battery case,
a leaky jar is indicated. An inspection of the level of the
electrolyte, which even though no dampness shows, will show the leaky
jar.
5. Just before putting the battery on the car, make the high rate
discharge test on it. See page 266.
BATTERIES SHIPPED "DRY"
Exide Batteries
Storing. 1. Keep the battery in a dry, clean place, and keep the room
temperature above 32 degrees, and below 110 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Put the battery into service before the expiration of the time
limit given on the tag attached to the battery. The process of putting
the battery into service will require about five days.
3. If the battery has been allowed to stand beyond the time limit,
open up one of the cells just before beginning the process necessary
to put the battery into service. If the separators are found to be
cracked, split, or warped, throw away all the separators from all the
cells and put in new ones. If the separators are in good condition,
reassemble the cell and put the battery into service.
Putting Battery into Service. 1. Fill the cells with electrolyte of
the correct specific gravity. To do this, remove the vent plugs and
pour in the electrolyte until it rises to the bottom of the vent
tubes. The correct specific gravities of the electrolyte to be used
are as follows:
(a) For Types DX, XC, XE, XX and XXV, use 1.360 electrolyte. In
tropical countries use 1.260 electrolyte.
(b) For Types LX, LXR, LXRE, LXRV, use 1.340 electrolyte. In tropical
countries use 1.260 electrolyte.
(c) For Types MHA and PHC, use 1.320 electrolyte. In tropical
countries use 1.260 electrolyte.
(d) For Types KXD and KZ, use 1.300 electrolyte. In tropical countries
use 1.240 electrolyte.
2. After filling with the electrolyte, allow the battery to stand ten
to fifteen hours before starting the initial charge. This gives the
electrolyte time to cool.
3. No sooner than ten to fifteen hours after filling the battery with
electrolyte, add water to bring the electrolyte up to the bottom of
the vent tubes, if the level has fallen. Replace the vent caps and
turn them to the right.
Start charging at the rates shown in the following table. Continue
charging at this rate for at least 96 hours (4 days).
Table of Initial and Repair Charging Rates
Type and Size of Cell Charging Rate, Amperes Minimum Ampere Hours
--------------------- ---------------------- --------------------
KZ-3 1/2 50
LX-5, LXR-5, LXRE-5 1-1/2 145
KXD-5 2 190
XC-9, XX-9 2-1/2 240
DX-11, KXD-7, LXR-9,
LXRE-9, XC-11, XE-11 3 290
DX-13, KXD-9, LXR-11,
XC-13, XE-13, XX-13 4 385
LXR-13, LXRE-13, XC-15,
XE-15, XX-15 4-1/2 430
KXD-11, XC-17, XE-17 5 480
LXRV-15, LXR-15, LXRE-15 5-1/2 525
LX-17, LXR-17, LXRE-17,
XC-19, XE-19, XXV-19 6 575
MHA-11, PHC-13 6 575
XC-21, XE-21 6-1/2 625
XC-23 7 675
XC-25 7-1/2 720
4. Occasionally measure the temperature of the electrolyte. Do not
allow the temperature to rise above 110° Fahrenheit (120° Fahrenheit
in tropical countries). Should the temperature reach 110°, stop the
charge long enough to allow the temperature to drop below 100°.
5. At the end of the charge, the specific gravity of the electrolyte
should be between 1.280 and 1.300 (1.210 and 1.230 in tropical
countries). If it is not between these limits adjust it by drawing off
some of the electrolyte with the hydrometer and replacing with water
if the specific gravity is too high, or with electrolyte of the same
specific gravity used in filling the battery, if the specific gravity
is too low.
6. Wipe off the top and sides of the battery case with a rag dampened
with ammonia to neutralize any electrolyte which may have been spilled.
7. Just before putting the battery into service, give it a high rate
discharge test. See page 266.
Vesta Batteries
1. Remove vent caps from each cell and fill with electrolyte of 1.300
specific gravity. This electrolyte should not have a temperature
greater than 75° Fahrenheit when added to the cells.
2. After the addition of this acid, the battery will begin to heat and
it should be left standing from 12 to 24 hours or until it has cooled
off.
3. Battery should then be put on charge at the finish charging rate
stamped on the name plate. Continue charging at this rate for
approximately 48 to 72 hours or until the gravity and voltage readings
of each cell stop rising.
4. Care should be taken to see that the temperature of battery does
not rise above 110° Fahrenheit. If this occurs., the charging rate
should be cut down.
5. The acid in each cell will undoubtedly have to be equalized.
6. At the finish of this developing charge the gravity should read
1.280 in each cell. If below this, equalize by putting in 1.400
specific gravity acid, or if the contrary is the case and the acid is
above 1.280 add sufficient distilled water until the gravity reads
1.280.
7. After the acid has been equalized and it has stopped rising in
density the voltage of each cell while still on charge at the
finishing rate should read at least 2.5 volts per cell or better.
8. The battery is then ready for service. Just before putting battery
into service, make a high rate discharge test on it. See page 266.
Philadelphia Diamond Grid Batteries
1. Remove the vent plugs and immediately fill the cells With
electrolyte until the level is even with the bottom of the vent tube
in the cover. Do not fill with electrolyte whose temperature is above
90° Fahrenheit. The specific gravity of the electrolyte to be used in
starting batteries varies with the number of plates in each cell, the
correct values being as follows:
Charging Rates
Fill batteries listed in Table No. 1 with 1.270 sp. gr. acid.
TABLE--No. 1
No. of LL-LLR
Plates & LH LM, LMR LT, LTR LS, LSR LG LT LSF
------ ------ ------- ------- ------- --- --- ---
9 2.0 2.5 2.0 2.5 3.0
11 2.5 3.0 2.5 3.5 4.0
13 3.0 3.5 3.0 4.0 2.5
15 3.5 4.0 3.5 4.5 5.5
17 4.0 5.0 4.0 5.5 6.0
19 4.5 5.5 4.5 6.0
Special Battery: 136 USA ... 6. 0 amps.
TABLE NO.2
Fill batteries listed in Table No. 2 with 1.250 sp. gr. acid.
No. LL-LLR LM LT LS S
of Plates & LLH LMR LTR LSR SH ST LSF
--------- ------ --- --- --- --- --- ---
5 1.0 1.0 2.0 1.5
7 1.5 1.5 1.5 2.0 3.0 2.0 1.5
9 4.0
11 5.0
Special Batteries: 330 AA .... 1.0 amps.
524 STD-H2 ................... 1.0 amps.
7 6 SPN ...................... 1.5 amps.
The number of plates per cell is; indicated in the first numeral of
the type name. For instance, 712 LLA-1 is a 7 plate LL. For all
lighting batteries, types S and ST. use 1.210 electrolyte.
2. Allow the battery to stand for one or two hours.
3. Remove the seal from the top of the vent caps, and open by blowing
through the cap.
4. Insert vent plugs in the vent tubes.
5. Put the battery on charge at the rate given in the table on page
228. To determine the rate to use, see type name given on the battery
nameplate and find correct rate in the table. Keep the battery
charging at this rate throughout the charge.
6. Continue the charge until the battery voltage and the specific
gravity of the electrolyte stop rising, as shown by readings taken
every four hours. From three and one-half to four days of continuous
charging will be required to fully charge the battery.
7. Watch the temperature of the electrolyte, and do not allow it to
rise above 110° Fahrenheit. If the temperature rises to 110° F., stop
the charge and allow battery to cool. Extend the time of charging by
the length of time required for the battery to cool.
8. After the specific gravity of the electrolyte stops rising, adjust
the electrolyte to a specific gravity of 1.280 at a temperature of 70°
Fahrenheit. If the temperature is not 70°, make temperature
corrections as described on page 65.
9. The battery is now ready to be installed on the car. Just before
installing the battery, make a high rate discharge test on it.
Willard Bone-Dry Batteries
A Willard Threaded Rubber insulated battery is shipped and carried in
stock "bone-dry." It is filled with electrolyte and charged for the
first time when being made ready for delivery.
Threaded Rubber Insulated Batteries received bone-dry must be prepared
for service, as follows:
1. Mix electrolyte to a density of 1.275.
2. Remove the vent plugs and fill to the top of the vent hole with
1.275 electrolyte. Be sure that the electrolyte is thoroughly mixed by
stirring and that its temperature is not above 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
3. A portion of the solution will be absorbed by the plates and
insulation because they have been standing dry without any liquid in
the cells. The volume is thus decreased, necessitating the addition of
electrolyte after first filling.
Wait five minutes and then again fill to the top of the vent hole with
1.275 electrolyte.
4. The battery must now stand at least twelve hours and not more than
twenty-four hours before charging. After it has been filled an
increase in temperature of the battery solution will take place. This
is caused by the action of the acid in the solution penetrating the
plates mid reacting with the active material, but does no injury.
Since the acid in the solution joins the active material in the plates
the density of the solution becomes proportionately lower. This is to
be expected and should cause no concern.
In order that the entire plate volume of active material may be in
chemical action during charge, the battery should stand before being
placed on charge--until the solution has bad time to penetrate the
entire thickness of the plates. This requires at least twelve hours,
but not more than twenty-four hours.
5. Just before charging the battery, again fill with 1.275 electrolyte
to 3/8 inch over the top of the separators. After this, do not add
anything but distilled water to the battery solution.
6. The battery should then be put on charge at the finish rate until
the gravity stops rising. At the end of this period the specific
gravity should be between 1.280 and 1.300. It may take from 36 to 72
hours before this density is reached.
Care should be taken not to prolong the charging unduly, for that may
cause active material to fall out of the grids, thus injuring the
plates beyond repair.
7. Because of the evaporation of water in the solution during the
charging process, it is necessary to add distilled water from time to
time in order to keep the solution above the tops of the separators.
The temperature of the battery while on charge should never exceed 110
degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature rises above this point the
charging must be discontinued for a time or the rate decreased.
If at any time during the initial charging the density rises above
1.300 some of the solution should immediately be drawn off with a
syringe and distilled water added. This must be done as often as is
necessary to keep the density below 1.300.
If the specific gravity does not change after two successive readings
and does not then read within the limits of 1.280 to 1.300 it should
be adjusted to read correctly. If the reading is less than 1.280 it
should be adjusted by drawing off as much solution as can be taken out
with a syringe and electrolyte of 1.400 specific gravity added. The
battery must then be placed on charge for at least four hours and
another reading taken. If it is again found to be less than 1.280 this
operation should be repeated as many times as necessary to bring the
density up to 1.280.
9. The height of solution when taking the battery off charge should be
5/8 of an inch above the top of the separators. After the battery has
been off charge long enough to permit the solution to cool to normal
temperature, draw off the excess to a final height of 3/8 inch above
separators. Replace the vent plugs and battery is ready for service.
Unfilled Willard Wood Insulated Batteries
Unfilled, wood-insulated batteries have not had an initial charge and
require a treatment similar to batteries with threaded rubber
insulation. When shipment is made in this manner, such batteries
should be placed in service before the date indicated on the tag
attached to the battery.
To prepare such a battery for service:
1. Remove the vent plugs and fill each cell with 1.335 specific
gravity electrolyte (one part of concentrated sulphuric acid by volume
to two parts of distilled water by volume) to 3/8 inch above the tops
of the separators.
2. Wait 5 minutes and then fill each cell again with 1.335 specific
gravity electrolyte to 3/8 inch above the tops of the separators.
3. The battery must then stand from 10 to 15 hours before placing on
charge.
4. After standing for this length of time, fill each cell again, if
necessary, with 1.335 specific gravity electrolyte to bring the level
of the electrolyte 3/8 inch above the tops of the separators before
charging.
5. Place the battery on charge at the finish rate marked on the name
plate until the gravity and cell voltage stop rising. This charging
will require at least 48 hours.
6. If, after a charge of 48 hours or longer the specific gravity does
not rise for two consecutive hours, the gravity should be between
1.280 and 1.300. If it is not between these limits, the specific
gravity should be adjusted to these values at the end of the charge.
7. If, during the charge, the temperature exceeds 110 degrees
Fahrenheit, the charge rate should be reduced so as to keep the
temperature below 110 degrees Fahrenheit and the time of charging
lengthened proportionately.
Preparing Westinghouse Batteries for Service
(These batteries are prepared for shipment in what is known as export
condition.)
1. Remove vent plugs and discard soft rubber caps.
2. Fill all cells with 1.300 specific gravity sulphuric acid until top
of connecting straps, as seen through vent holes are completely
covered. Temperature of filling acid should never be above 90 degrees
Fahrenheit.
Note: The aim is to fill the cells with acid of such a Specific
gravity that the electrolyte, at the end of charge, will need very
little adjusting to bring it to the proper specific gravity.
1.300 specific gravity acid has been found to be approximately correct
for this purpose. However, if after several batteries have been
prepared for service using 1.300 specific gravity acid, considerable
adjusting at the end of charge is necessary, it is permissible to use
a slightly different specific gravity of filling acid, but the use of
acid above 1.325 specific gravity or below 1,250 specific gravity is
not recommended.
3. Allow batteries to stand after filling for from two to three hours
before putting on charge.
4. Put on charge at finish charge rate shown on name plate of battery.
Note: If temperature of electrolyte in battery reaches 100 degrees
Fahrenheit (determined by inserting special thermometer through vent
hole in cover), the charging rate should be immediately reduced, as
continued charging at a temperature above 100 degrees Fahrenheit is
injurious to both separators and plates.
5. Continue charging until all cells are gassing freely and individual
cell voltage and specific gravity of electrolyte have shown no
decided rise for a period of five hours.
Note: The length of time required to completely charge a new battery
depends largely upon the time the battery has been in stock, varying
from twelve to twenty-four hours for a comparatively fresh battery to
four or five days for a battery six months or more old.
6. Keep level of electrolyte above tops of separators at all times,
while charging by adding distilled water to replace that lost by
evaporation.
7. After battery is completely charged the specific gravity of
electrolyte in all cells should be adjusted to 1.285 at 70 degrees
Fahrenheit, and the level of electrolyte adjusted so that after
battery is taken off charge the height of electrolyte stands 1/8 inch
above tops of connecting straps.
Note: Corrections for temperature if temperature of electrolyte is
above or below 70 degrees Fahrenheit the correction is one point of
gravity for each three degrees of temperature. See page 65.
If specific gravity of electrolyte is above 1.285, a portion of the
electrolyte should be removed and replaced with distilled water.
If the specific gravity is below 1.285, a portion of electrolyte
should be removed and replaced with 1.400 specific gravity sulphuric
acid. Acid of higher gravity than 1.400 should never be put in
batteries.
Batteries should always be charged for several hours after adjusting
gravity to insure proper mixing of the electrolyte and to see that the
correct specific gravity of 1.285 has been obtained.
8. After first seven sections have been followed examine vent plugs to
see that gas passage is Dot obstructed and screw back in place.
Battery is now ready for service.
The Prest-O-Lite Assembled Green Seal Battery
This type of battery is made up of the same sort of plates as the old
partly assembled green seal battery. The elements are, however,
completely assembled will wood separators and sealed in the jars and
box in the same manner as a wet battery to be put into immediate
service; the cell connectors are burned in place.
How to Store It. A room of ordinary humidity, one in which the air is
never dryer for any reason than the average, should be used to store
these batteries. They should be shielded from direct sunlight.
Examine the vents-they should be securely inserted and remain so
during the entire storage period.
If these precautions are observed, this type battery may be stored for
at least a year.
To Prepare Battery for Use. 1. Prepare sufficient pure electrolyte of
1.300 specific gravity. If during the mixing considerable heat is
evolved, allow electrolyte to cool down to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Never pour electrolyte, that is warmer than 90 degrees Fahrenheit,
into cells.
2. Remove the vents and lay them aside until the final charging
operation has been completed.
Within 15 minutes from the time the vents are removed fill all cells
to the bottom of vent openings with the electrolyte prepared, as
stated above.
3. Allow the electrolyte to remain in the cells, not less than one
hour. At the end of this time, should the electrolyte level fall below
the tops of the separators, add enough electrolyte to bring level at
least one-half inch above separators. If the temperature in the cells
does not rise above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, proceed immediately
(before two hours have elapsed) with the initial charging operation.
If the temperature remains above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, allow the
battery to stand until the electrolyte cools down to 100 degrees
Fahrenheit. Then proceed immediately with the charge. It is important
that the acid does not stand in the cells for more than two hours,
unless it is necessary to allow the acid to cool.
4. Initial Charging Operation. Place the battery on charge at the
ampere rate given in the following table. The total initial charge
must be for fifty-two hours, but at no time permit the electrolyte
temperature to rise above 115 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature
should reach 115 degrees Fahrenheit, take the battery off the line and
allow the electrolyte to cool, but be sure that the total of fifty-two
hours actual charging at the ampere rate specified is completed.
Initial Charge---52 Hours
Plates Type of
per Cell Plate
AHS WHN RHN SHC BHN JFN GM CLN KPN
-------- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- ---
3 1.5
5 2 2 2.5 3
7 3 3 3.5 4 3 5
9 4 4 5 5 7
11 5 5 6 7 7.5 5 9
13 6 6 7 8 9 6 10.5 10.5
15 7 7 9 9.5 10.5 7 12
17 10 12 9
19 9 9 11 12 9
The nominal battery voltage and the number of plates per cell is
indicated by the Prest-O-Lite type designations, i. e.: 613 RHN
denotes 6 volts, 13 plates per cell or 127 SHC denotes 12 volts, 7
plates per cell.
5. The electrolyte density at the end of fifty-two hours charge should
be near 1.290 specific gravity. A variation between 1.285 and 1.300 is
permissible. If, after fifty hours of the initial charge, the
electrolyte density of any of the cells is outside these limits,
adjustment should be begun while still charging. For those cells in
which the density is higher than 1.300 specific gravity replace some
of the electrolyte with distilled water. In those cells where the
density is lighter than 1.285 specific gravity replace some of the
electrolyte with previously prepared electrolyte of 1.400 specific
gravity. Wait until the cells have charged one hour before taking
readings to determine the effect of adjustment, which, if not
accomplished, should be attempted again as before. Practice Will
enable the attendant to estimate the amount of electrolyte necessary
to replace in order to accomplish the proper density desired-at the
end of initial charge.
6. Following the completion of the fifty-two hour charge, if there is
time to do so, it is good practice to put the battery through a
development cycle, i. e., to discharge it at about the four-hour rate
and then put it on the charging line again at the normal rate until a
condition of full charge is again reached. The objects gained by this
discharge are:
(a) Further development of the plates.
(b) Adjustment or stabilization of the electrolyte.
(c) Checking the assembly by noting the failure of any cell or cells
to act uniformly and satisfactorily during discharge.
The four-hour discharge rate is, of course, like the normal rate of
Initial Charge, dependent upon the size and number of plates per cell
in any particular battery; the number of cells determines the voltage
only and has nothing to do with the battery's charge or discharging
rating. These four-hour discharge rates are as follows:
Plates
per Cell Type of Plate
AHS WHN RHN SHC BHN JFN GM CLN KPN
-------- --- --- --- --- --- --- -- --- ---
3 3
5 5 5 5.5 6.5
7 7.5 7.5 8 10 7.5 13.5
9 10 10 11 13 18
11 12.5 12.5 14 16 19 12.5 22.5
13 15 15 16.5 19.5 22.5 15 27 27
15 17.5 17.5 19 23 26 17.5 31.5
17 22 26
19 22.5 22.5 25 29 22.5
Immediately at the end of the four-hour discharge, put the battery on
the line and charge it at the normal rate prescribed in the Initial
Charge rate table until a state of complete charge, as noted by cell
voltage and gravity is reached. This charging time should be about
sixteen hours.
Any adjustments of electrolyte found necessary at the end of this
charging period in the same manner prescribed in paragraph No. 5, for
such adjustments made just before the completion of the initial
fifty-two hour charge.
(TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE: No item number 7. in original publication.)
8. At the end of the fifty-two hour charge, or, if the Development
discharge has been given, at the end of the Development Cycle Charge,
replace the vent plugs, wash all exterior surfaces with clean water
and dry quickly. The battery is then ready for service.
INSTALLING A BATTERY ON A CAR
A battery must be installed carefully on the car if it is to have any
chance to give good service. Careless installation of a battery which
is in good working order will invariably lead to trouble in a very
short time. On the other hand, a properly installed battery is, nine
times out of ten, a good working and long lived battery.
After you have removed the old battery, scrape all rust and corrosion
from the inside of the battery box or compartment in which the battery
is placed. This can best be done with a putty knife and wire brush. If
you find that electrolyte has been spilled in the box, pour a
saturated solution of baking soda on the parts affected so as to
neutralize the acid. Then wipe the inside of the box dry and paint it
with a good acid proof paint.
Next take out the hold down bolts. Clean them with a wire brush, and
oil the threads on the bolt and in the nut to make them work easily.
It is very important that this oiling be done, as the oil protects the
bolts from corrosion, and to remove the nuts from a corroded bolt is
an extremely difficult and aggravating piece of work, often resulting
in the bolts being broken. Should such bolts become loose while the
car is in use, it is hard to tighten them.
Wooden strips found in the battery box should be thoroughly cleaned
and scraped, and then painted with acid proof paint. When you lower
the battery into its box, lower it all the way gently. Do not lower it
within an inch or so of the bottom of the case and then drop it. This
will result in broken jars and plate lugs. Turn the hold downs tight,
but not so tight as to break the sealing compound at the ends of the
battery, thereby causing electrolyte to leak out, and battery to
become a "slopper".
Cables and connectors should be scraped bright with a knife and
brushed thoroughly with the wire brush to remove all corrosion. Old
tape which has become acid soaked should be removed and the cable or
wire underneath cleaned. Before applying new tape, take a small round
bristle brush and paint Vaseline liberally over the exposed cable
immediately back of the taper terminal. Then cover the Vaseline with
tape, which Should be run well back from the terminal. The Vaseline
prevents the corrosion of the cable and the tape holds the Vaseline in
place. After the tape has been applied, paint it with acid proof
paint. Cover the terminals of the battery with Vaseline. Cables must
have enough slack to prevent strains from being put on the battery
terminals.
By following these directions, you will not only have a properly
installed battery, which will have a good chance to give good service,
but will have a neat looking job which is most pleasing to the eye of
the car owner.
Remove all dirt from the battery and cable terminals and thoroughly
clean the surfaces which are to connect together, but do not scrape
off the lead coating. Apply a heavy coating of pure Vaseline to these
surfaces and tighten the connection perfectly, squeezing out the
Vaseline. Then give the whole connection a heavy coating of Vaseline.
This is very important in order to prevent connection trouble.
If battery is installed in an enclosing box, be sure that none of the
ventilating holes are clogged.
STORING BATTERIES
When a battery is not in active use on a car it should be put into
storage. Storage is necessary:
1. When a car is to stand idle for a considerable period, such as is
the case when it is held for future delivery.
2. When a car is laid up for the winter.
3. When batteries are kept in stock.
Batteries may be stored "wet," i.e., completely assembled and filled
with electrolyte, or "dry," i.e., in a dry disassembled condition,
without electrolyte. In deciding whether a battery should be stored
"wet" or "dry," two things are to be considered, i.e. the length of
time the battery is to be in storage, and the condition of the
battery. If a battery is to be out of commission for a year or more,
it should be put into "dry" storage. If it is to be in storage for
less than one year, it may be put into "wet" storage if it is in a
good condition. If the condition of the battery is such that it will
need to be dismantled soon for repairs, it should be put into "dry"
storage, even though it is to be out of service for less than one year.
Batteries in "dry" storage require no attention while they are in
storage, but they must be dismantled before being put into storage and
reassembled when put back into service.
When a battery is brought in to be stored, note its general condition
carefully.
(a) Its General Appearance-condition of case, handles, terminals,
sealing compound, and so on.
(b) Height and specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell.
(c) Age of Battery. Question owner as to length of time he has had
battery. Read date marks on battery if there are any, or determine age
by the age code. See page 243. If a battery is less than a year old,
is in good condition, and is to be stored for less than one year, it
may be put into "wet" storage. If it is more than a year old, put it
into dry storage, unless it is in first class shape and is to be
stored for only several months.
After making your general observations, clean the battery, add
distilled water to bring the electrolyte up to the proper level, put
the battery on charge and keep it on the line until it is fully
charged. Watch for any abnormal condition during the charge, such as
excessive temperature rise, failure of voltage to come up, failure of
specific gravity to come up, and gassing before gravity becomes
constant.
If no abnormal conditions develop during the charge, put the battery
on discharge at a rate which will cause the voltage to drop to 1.7
volts per cell in about four hours. Measure the cell voltages at
regular intervals during the discharge test. If the voltage of any
cell drops much more rapidly than that of the other cells, that cell
is defective in some way, and should be opened for inspection. If the
voltage of all cells drops to 1.7 in three hours or less, the battery
should be put into dry storage.
After completing the discharge test, recharge it fully, no matter
whether it is to be put into wet or dry storage.
If no trouble developed during the charge or discharge, the battery
may be put into "wet" storage. If trouble did develop, the battery
should be put into "dry" storage.
If dry storage is found to be necessary the owner should be informed
that the condition of his battery would cause it to deteriorate in wet
storage and necessitate much more expensive repairs when put into use
again than will be necessary in the thorough overhauling and
rejuvenation of dry storage. He should be advised that dry storage
involves dismantling, drying out elements and reassembling with the
needed repairs and new separators in the Spring. Be sure that the
customer understands this. If it is evident that repairs or new parts,
involving costs additional to storage charges, will be necessary, tell
him so. Do not leave room for a complaint about costs in the Spring.
To avoid any misunderstanding, it is highly advisable to have the
customer put his signature on a STORAGE AGREEMENT which states fully
the terms under which the battery is accepted for storage. The storage
cost may be figured on a monthly basis, or a price for the entire
storage period may be agreed upon. The monthly rate should be the same
as the regular price for a single battery recharge. If a flat rate is
paid for the entire storage period, $2.00 to $3.00 is a fair price.
"Wet" Storage
1. Store the batteries on a bench or shelf in a convenient location
and large enough to allow a little air space around each battery.
2. Place each battery upon wooden strips in order to keep the bottom
of the battery clear of the bench or shelf.
3. Apply Vaseline freely to the battery terminals, and to exposed
copper wires in the battery cables if the cables are burned directly
to the battery terminals. If the cables are not burned on, remove them
from the battery.
4. If convenient, install the necessary wiring, switches, etc., so
that batteries may be connected up and charged where they stand.
Otherwise the batteries must be charged occasionally oil the charging
bench.
[Fig. 151 Batteries connected for trickle charge]
5. Batteries in wet storage may be charged by the Exide "Trickle"
charge method, or may be given a bench charge at regular intervals.
6. Bench Charge Method.--Once every month, add distilled water to
replace evaporation. Then give battery a bench charge. See page 198.
Before putting battery into service repeat this process and just
before putting the battery into service, make the high rate discharge
test on it. See page 266.
7. Trickle Charge Method.--This consists of charging the batteries in
storage continuously at a very low rate, which is so low that no
gassing occurs, and still gives enough charge to maintain the
batteries in good condition. In many cases the "Trickle" Charge method
will be found more convenient than the bench charge method, and it has
the advantage of keeping the batteries in condition for putting into
service on short notice. It should, however, be used only where direct
current lighting circuits are available.
In the "Trickle" method, the batteries are first given a complete
bench charge, and are then connected in series across a charging
circuit with one or several incandescent lamps in series with the
batteries to limit the current. In Fig. 151, an example of connections
for a "Trickle" charge is given. The charging current for different
sized batteries varies from 0.05 to 0.15 ampere. The following table
gives the lamps required to give the desired current on 110 volt
circuit.
In each case, the lamps are connected in series with the batteries.
The "2-25 watt, (lamps), in parallel" listed in the table are to be
connected in parallel with each other and then in series with the
batteries. The same is true of the "3-25 watt (lamps), in series"
listed in the table.
Series on 115 Volt Line
Amp. Hours No. of Cells No. 115 Volt
Capacity Amperes in Series Lamps Required
5 Amp. Rate Approximate on Line 115 Volt
----------- ----------- ------------ --------------
50 or less 0.05 3 5-15 watt, in series
50 or less 0.05 30 2-15 watt, in series
50 or less 0.05 45 1-15 watt, in series
50-100 0.10 3 3-25 watt, in series
50-100 0.10 3 1-25 watt, in series
50-100 0.10 45 2-25 watt, in parallel
100 or over 0.15 3 2-25 watt, in series
100 or over 0.15 30 1-25 watt, in series
100 or over 0.15 45 3-25 watt, in parallel
Every two months interrupt the trickle charge long enough to add water
to bring the electrolyte up to the proper level. When this has been
done, continue the trickle charge.
Before putting the batteries into service, see that the electrolyte is
up to the correct level, and that the specific gravity of the
electrolyte is 1.280-1.300. If necessary, give a short charge on the
charging bench to bring the specific gravity up to the correct value.
Dry Storage
1. Give the battery a complete charge. Pour out the electrolyte, and
separate the groups. If the negatives have bulged active material,
press them in the plate press. In batteries such as the Prest-OLite in
which it is difficult to remove the plates from the cover, the groups
need not be separated unless the negatives have badly bulged active
material. It may not be necessary to separate the groups even then,
provided that the positives are not buckled to any noticeable extent.
If only a very slight amount of buckling exists, the entire element
may be pressed by putting thin boards between the plates in place of
the separators.
2. Immerse the negatives in distilled water for ten to twelve hours.
If positives and negatives cannot be separated, wash each complete
element in a gentle stream of water.
3. Remove plates from water and allow them to drain thoroughly and
dry. The negatives will heat up when exposed to the air, and when they
do so they should be immersed in the water again to cool them. Repeat
this as long as they tend to heat up. Then allow them to dry
thoroughly.
4. Throw away the old separators. Rubber separators may be saved if in
good condition. Clean the covers and terminals., wash out the jars,
and turn the case up side down to drain out the water. Examine the box
carefully. It is advisable to wash with a solution of baking soda,
rinsing the water in order to neutralize as far as possible the action
of acid remaining on the box. If this is not done, the acid may start
decomposition of the box while in storage, in which case the owner of
the battery may insist on its renewal before acceptance at the end of
the storage period.
5. When, the plates are perfectly dry, nest the positives and
negatives together, using dry cardboard instead of separators, and
replace them in the jars in their proper positions.
6. Replace the covers and vent plugs, but, of course, do not use any
sealing compound on them.
7. Tie the terminals and top connectors to the handle on the case with
a wire.
8. Tag the battery with the owner's name and address, using the tag on
which you made the sketch of the arrangement of the terminals and top
connections.
9. Store the battery in a dry place, free from dust, until called for.
10. When the battery is to be put into service again, put in new
separators, put the elements in the jars, seal the covers, and burn on
the top connectors and terminals (if these are of the burned-on type).
Fill the cells with electrolyte of about 1.310 specific gravity and
allow the battery to stand for ten to twelve hours in order to cool.
Then put the battery on charge at one-half the normal charging rate
and charge until the specific gravity of the electrolyte stops rising
and remains stationary for five hours. The total time required for
this development charge will be about four days. Watch the temperature
of the electrolyte carefully, and if it should rise to 110°
Fahrenheit, stop the charge until it cools.
11. The specific gravity will fall during the first part of the
charge, due to the new separators; at the end of the charge, the
specific gravity should be 1.280-1.300. If it is not within these
limits, adjust it by withdrawing some electrolyte with the hydrometer
and adding water if the gravity is high, or 1.400 electrolyte if the
gravity is low.
12. Clean the case thoroughly and give it a coat of asphaltum paint.
13. Just before putting the battery into service, give it a high rate
discharge test. See page 266.
DETERMINING AGE OF BATTERY
Battery manufacturers use codes to indicate the age of their
batteries. These codes consist of letters, figures, or combinations of
letters and figures, which are stamped on the inter-cell connectors or
on the nameplate. The codes may also be burned on the case.
The codes of the leading makes of batteries follow. In addition to
determining the age of a battery by means of the code, the owner
should be questioned as to the time the battery was installed on his
car. If the battery is the original one which came with the car, the
dealer's or car manufacturer's records will help determine the
battery's age. If a new battery has been installed to replace the one
that came with the car, the battery distributor's records will help
determine the age of the battery.
Familiarity with the different makes and types of battery will also
help in determining a battery's age. Manufacturers make improvements
in the construction of their batteries from time to time, and by
keeping up-to-date on battery constructions, it is often possible to
approximate the age of a battery by such changes.
If a battery was kept "dry" while in stock, its age should be figured
from the time it was prepared for service and placed on the car, since
batteries in dry storage do not deteriorate. Some batteries are
shipped from the factory "wet," i.e., filled with electrolyte and
fully charged and the age of such batteries should be figured from the
time they were shipped from the factory, because deterioration begins
as soon as a battery is filled with electrolyte. When batteries are
"dry" no chemical action can take place, and the battery does not
deteriorate, while in a "wet" battery, chemical action takes place
which gradually causes a battery to deteriorate.
Exide Age Code.
Since October, 1917, the date of shipment of Exide batteries from the
factory, or from Exide Deposts has been stamped on the top of the
first inter-cell connector from the negative end of the batter instead
of on the nameplate figures are used to indicate the dates, as
follows:
[Image: Exide and Philadelphia battery age code charts]
All Philadelphia batteries shipped prior to April 1, 1920 and all
batteries shipped from depot stock after this date carry double letter
branding. The first battery is the factory date and the second letter
in this code indicates latest month during which the guarantee may
begin.
Batteries sold direct from Philadelphia to all classes of customers
after April 1, 1920, carry the single letter branding code, indicating
month of manufacture.
The letters used in the double letter age code are selected from the
table given above, and the second letter is the important one, since
it gives the latest date from which adjustment can be made. If a
Philadelphia battery with a double letter age code comes in,
therefore, the foregoing table should be consulted in determining the
age of the battery.
If a Philadelphia battery with a single letter age code comes in, the
following table should be consulted in determining the age of the
battery:
[Image: Single Letter Philadelphia Batteries Age Code Chart]
Prest-O-Lite Age Code.
All Prest-O-Lite batteries carry a date letter stamped on the
cell-connectors. This letter indicates the month and year in which the
battery was manufactured. The letter is preceeded by a number which
represents the factory at which the battery was built.
Prest-O-Lite Factory Marks.
Indianapolis--50 Cleveland--7 San Francisco--23
For example: "50-K" indicates that the battery was manufactured at
Indianopolis in January, 1920.
In addition to the above, each "Wet" Prest-O-Lite battery is branded
in the side with a date, as "9-19," indicating October, 1919. This
date is really sixty days ahead of the actual building date, to allow
time for shipping, etc., before the guarentee starts. The branded
"9-19" was actually built in August, 1919.
Titan Age Code.
The age of Titan batteries is indicated by a number stamped on one of
the inter-cell connectors, this number indicating the month the
battery was hipped from the factory.
[Image: Age code charts for Titan batteries]
[Image: Age code charts for U.S.L., and Vesta batteries]
[Image: Age code charts for Westinghouse and Willard batteries]
RENTAL BATTERIES
Rental batteries are those which are put on a customer's car while his
own is being repaired or recharged. They are usually rebuilt batteries
turned in when a new battery is bought. They may also be made of the
good parts of batteries which are junked. By carefully saving good
parts, such as plates, jars, covers, and cases, a stock of parts will
gradually be acquired from which rental batteries may be made. Rental
batteries may also be bought from the battery manufacturers.
A supply of rental batteries should, of course, be kept ready to go
out at any time. The number of such batteries depends upon the size of
the business. 25 batteries for each 1000 cars in the territory served
is a good average. Do not have too many rental batteries of the same
type. Many of them will be idle most of the time and thus will not
bring in any money. Rentals should be made to fit those makes of cars
of which there are the greatest number in the territory served by the
repair shop. Sufficient parts should be kept on hand to make up other
rentals on short notice.
Terminals for Rental Batteries
There are several combination terminals on the market which allow
rental batteries equipped with them to be easily connected to several
of the various types of cable terminals that are in use. Yet it is a
universal experience for the average service station always to have
calls for rental batteries with just the type of terminals which are
not on hand. When the station has many batteries with the clamp type
straight posts the call always seems to be for the taper plug type and
vice versa.
[Fig. 152 Best type of connection to be used whenever possible]
Most of us will agree that the clamp type post terminal is the cause
of much trouble. It is almost impossible to prevent corrosion at the
positive post and many a car owner has found that this has been his
trouble when his lights burn all right but the battery seemingly does
not have power enough to turn over the engine and yet every cell tests
1.280. Service Station men should not scrape and clean up a corroded
clamp type terminal and put it back on again, but should cut it off
and put on either a taper plug or, preferably, a lead-plated copper
terminal lug. Of course either of these terminal connections
necessitates changing the battery terminals to correspond.
For rental batteries it will be found that short cable terminals with
lead-plated copper lugs at the end will enable a battery man to
connect most any type of cable terminal on any car. It is true that
such connections must be taped up, but the prompt service rendered
more than offsets a little tape. Figures 152 to 158 illustrate how
these connections can be made to the taper plug and clamp types which
are used on most cars.
[Fig. 153 Method of connecting rental battery with cable
terminals to car with taper plug]
[Fig. 154 Another method of connecting copper terminal
lug to clamp terminal on car]
[Fig. 155 Method of connecting rental batteries with
cable terminals to cars with clamp type terminals]
Fig. 155. Showing method of connecting rental batteries with cable
terminals, to cars with clamp type terminals. In Fig. 155 the cable
insulation is stripped for a space of an inch and the strands are
equally divided with an awl. A bolt is passed through the opening and
a washer and nut complete the connection.
[Fig. 156 and Fig. 157 Two methods of connecting a clamp type
terminal to taper plug terminals]
Two methods of connecting a clamp type terminal to taper plug
terminals. In Fig. 156 a taper plug is inserted and screwed tight. The
projecting part of the plug has been turned down to fit the clamp type
terminal which is clamped to it. In Fig. 157 a bolt is passed through
and the clamp type terminal tightened to the plug type terminal with a
washer and nut.
[Fig. 158 Lead plated copper terminal lug]
Fig. 158 shows a simple means of putting on a lead-plated copper
terminal lug without solder. These lugs should be soldered on whenever
possible, but it is often a difficult job to put one on in the
confined space of some battery compartments. In such places, a quick
and lasting job can be made with a band vise and a short piece of
round iron. This latter is laid across the lug and the vise screwed
up, making a crimp across the lug which firmly grips down upon the
bared cable strands that have been inserted into the lug.
New batteries sold to replace other batteries should be installed with
cable connections, as illustrated in Figure 152. This method of
connecting a battery is superior to any other method and will never
cause trouble. It will usually be found that the old taper plugs or
clamp terminals that have been in use have started to corrode and that
a new battery works increasingly at a disadvantage from the day it is
installed until the corrosion becomes so great that the car cannot be
started and then the customer kicks about his new battery. The best
connection possible will pay handsome dividends to all concerned, in
the end.
Marking Rental Batteries. Rental batteries should be marked in a
mariner which enables them to be recognized quickly. Painting the
cases a red color is a good way. The service station's name should
appear somewhere on the battery. A good plan is to have a lead tag,
which is attached to the handle at the negative end of the battery, or
is tacked to the case. The name may also be painted on the case. Each
battery should be given a number which should preferably be painted in
large white figures on the end or side of each case. The number may
also be stamped on a lead tag tied to the handle at the negative end.
A service station which sells a certain make of battery should not use
cases of some other make if the name of the other make appears on the
case. Such names may give a wrong impression to the customer, which
will not be fair either to the service station or to the manufacturer
whose name appears on the case. If the service station sells, another
make of battery, the customer may get the impression that the service
station man does not have enough confidence in the make which he
sells, and must use some other make for his rentals. If the rental
battery does not give good service, the customer will get the
impression that the manufacturer whose name appears on the case does
not turn out good batteries, when as a matter of fact, the plates,
covers, jars, and other parts used in the rental battery may not have
been made by this manufacturer. Some battery men would, perhaps,
consider the failure of a rental battery as an opportunity to "knock"
the manufacturer whose name appears on the case. Such an action may
have the desired effect on a very few customers, but the great
majority of men have no use for any one who "knocks" a competitor's
products.
Keeping a Record of Rental Batteries. A careful record should be kept
of all rental batteries. The more carefully such a record is kept, the
less confusion there will be in knowing just where every rental
battery is. A special rack for rental batteries, such as those shown
in Figures 88 and 89 should be provided, and all rental batteries
which are in the shop should be kept there, except when they are on
charge or are being overhauled. Have them fully charged and ready to
go out immediately, without keeping a customer waiting around, when he
is in a hurry to go somewhere else.
General Rental Policy. No service station should make a practice of
installing rental batteries on any car unless the owner leaves his own
battery to be repaired or recharged. The purpose of having a stock of
rental batteries is to enable customers to have the use of their cars
while their own batteries are being repaired by the battery man who
furnishes the rental battery and not to furnish batteries to car
owners who may be taking their batteries to some other station to be
repaired. It is, of course, a good thing to be generous and
accommodating, but every battery repairman should think of his own
business first, before he helps build up the business of a competitor.
The customer must have some inducement to bring in your rental battery
and get his own. A rental charge of 25 cents-per day serves as a
reminder to most customers. However, some customers are forgetful and
the battery man must telephone or write to any owner who fails to call
for his battery. If, due to failure to keep after the owner, a rental
battery is out for several weeks, there is likely to be an argument
when the rental bill is presented to the owner. If the delay in
calling in a rental battery is due to failure to repair the customer's
battery, the rental charge should be reduced.
A rental battery should not be put in place of a battery which is
almost ready for the junk pile. The thing to do is to sell the
customer a new battery. Repairs on an almost worn out battery are
expensive and the results may not be satisfactory.
RADIO BATTERIES
The wide-awake battery man will not overlook the new and rapidly
growing field which has been opened for him by the installation of
hundreds of thousands of radio-phone receiving sets in all parts of
the country. The so-called radio "craze" has affected every state, and
every battery repairman can increase his income to a considerable
extent by selling, charging, and repairing radio storage batteries.
The remarkable growth of the radio-phone has, of course, been due to
the radio broadcasting stations which have been established in all
parts of the country, and from which concerts, speeches, market
reports, baseball reports, news reports, children's stories and
religious services are sent out. These broadcasting stations have
sending ranges as high as 1,000 miles. The fact that a service station
is not located near a broadcasting station is therefore no reason why
it should not have its share of the radio battery business, because
the broadcasting stations are scattered all over the United States,
and receiving sets may be made powerful enough to "pick up" the waves
from at least one of the broadcasting stations.
Radio receiving sets may be divided into two general classes, the
"Crystal" sets and the "Bulb" sets. "Crystal" sets use crystals of
galena (lead sulphide), silicon (a crystalline form of silicon, one of
the chemical elements), or carborundum (carbide of silicon) to
"detect" or, in other words, to rectify the incoming radio waves so
that they may be translated into sound by the telephone receivers.
Receiving sets using these crystals do not use a battery, but these
sets are not very sensitive, and cannot "pick up" weak waves. This
means that crystal receiving sets must be used near the broadcasting
stations, before the waves have been weakened by traveling any
considerable distance.
As a general rule, the radio-listener's first receiving set uses a
crystal detector. Very often it is difficult to obtain good results
with such a set, and a more elaborate set is obtained. Moreover, even
if a crystal set does give good results, the owner of such a set soon
hears of friends who are able to hear concerts sent out from distance
stations. This gives him the desire to be able to hear such stations
also and he then buys a receiving set which uses the "audion-bulb" for
detecting, or rectifying the incoming waves.
The audion-bulb resembles an ordinary incandescent lamp. It contains
three elements:
1. In the center of the bulb is a short tungsten filament, the ends of
which are brought out to two terminals in the base of the bulb. This
filament must be heated to incandescence, and a storage battery is
required for this purpose, because it is necessary to have a very
steady current in order to obtain clear sounds in the receiver. Lately
plans have been suggested for using a direct current lighting line,
and even an alternating current lighting line for heating the
filament, but at present such plans have not been perfected, and the
battery will undoubtedly continue to be used with the majority of sets.
2. Surrounding the filament but not touching it is a helix of wire,
only one end of which is brought out to a terminal in the base of the
bulb. This helix is called the "grid." In some bulbs the grid is not
made in the form of a helix, but is made of two flat gridlike
structures, one on each side of the filament.
3. Surrounding the "grid" is the "plate" which is sometimes in the
shape of a hollow metallic cylinder. Some plates are not round, but
may be oval, or they may be two flat plates joined together at some
point, and one placed on either side of the grid. The plate has one
terminal in the base of the bulb.
[Fig. 159 Illustrating the principle of the Audion Bulb]
The action of an audion-bulb is quite complex, but a simpler
explanation, though one which may not be exactly correct from a purely
technical point of view, is as follows, referring to Figure 159:
The "A" battery heats the filament, causing a stream of electrically
charged particles to flow out from the filament in all directions.
These electrons act as a conductor, and close the circuit which
consists of the plate, the "B" battery, and the telephone receivers,
one end of this circuit being connected to one side of the filament
circuit. Current then flows from the positive terminal of the "B"
battery to the plate, then to the filament by means of the stream of
electrons emitted by the filament, along one side of the filament,
through the wire connected to the positive terminal of the "A" battery
to the telephone receivers, through the receivers to the negative
terminal of the "B" battery.
As long as the filament remains lighted a steady current flows through
the above circuit. The "grid" is connected to the aerial wire to
intercept the radio waves. These waves produce varying electrical
charges on the grid. Since the stream of charged particles emitted by
the filament must pass through the grid to reach the plate, the
charges which the radio waves produce on the grid strengthen or weaken
the stream of electrons emitted by the filament, and thus vary the
current flowing in the telephone receiver circuit. The changes in this
current cause the receiver diaphragm to vibrate, the vibrations
causing sounds to be heard. Since the variation in the telephone
receiver circuit is caused by electrical charges produced by the radio
waves, and since the radio waves change according to the sounds made
at the transmitting station, the variations in the telephone receiver
current produces the same sounds that are sent out at the transmitting
station. In this way concerts, speeches, etc., are reproduced in the
receivers.
The modern radio receiving set includes various devices, such as
variable condensers, variocouplers, loose-couplers, variometers, the
purpose of which is to "tune" or adjust the receiving set to be
capable of receiving the radio waves. An explanation of such devices
is not within the scope of this book, but there are numerous
reasonably priced books and pamphlets on the market which describes in
a simple manner all the component parts of a radio-receiving set.
From the foregoing remarks it is seen that a six-volt storage battery
is required with each receiving set which uses the audionbulb type
detector. The filament current of an audion-bulb averages about one
ampere. If additional bulbs are used to obtain louder sounds, each
such bulb also draws one ampere from the storage battery. The standard
audion-bulb receiving set does not use more than three bulbs, and
hence the maximum current drawn from the battery does not exceed three
amperes.
The automobile battery manufacturers have built special radio
batteries which have thick plates and thick separators to give longer
life. The thick plates are much stronger and more durable than the
thin plates used in starting and lighting work, but do not have the
heavy current capacity that the starting and lighting battery plates
have. A high current capacity is, of course, not necessary for radio
work, and hence thick plates are used.
Batteries used for radio work do not operate under the severe
conditions which exist on automobiles, and trouble is much less likely
to develop. However, the owner of the radio set rarely has any means
of keeping his battery charged, and his battery gradually discharges
and must then be recharged. It is in the sale of batteries for radio
work and in the recharging of them that the battery man can "cash-in"
on the radio phone "craze."
This business rightfully belongs to the automobile battery man and he
should go after it as hard as he can. A little advertising by the
service station man, stating that he sells radio batteries, and also
recharges them should bring in: very profitable business. The battery
man who calls for and delivers the radio batteries which need
recharging and leaves rental batteries in their place so that there is
no interruption in the reception of the evening concerts is the one
who will get the business.
As already stated, radio storage batteries have thick plates and thick
separators. Perforated rubber sheets are also used in addition to the
separators. Large sediment spaces are also generally provided to allow
a considerable amount of sediment to accumulate without causing
short-circuits. The cases are made of wood or hard rubber. Since radio
batteries are used in homes and are, therefore, used with handsomely
finished cabinets containing the radio apparatus, the manufacturers
give the cases of some of their radio batteries a pleasing varnished
or mahogany finish. Before returning radio batteries which have been
recharged, the entire batteries should be cleaned and the cases
polished. Returning radio batteries in a dirty condition, when they
were received clean, and polished, will drive the radio recharging
business to some other service station.
VESTA RADIO BATTERIES
The Vesta Battery Corporation manufacturers three special types of "A"
batteries for radio work, as follows:
1. The 6EA battery, made in capacities of 60, 80, and 100 ampere
hours. Fig. 160.
2. The V6EA7 battery, having a capacity of 80 ampere hours. Fig. 161.
3. The R6EA battery, having a capacity of 100 ampere hours. Fig. 162.
[Fig. 160, 161, 162, 163 Various Vesta Radio batteries]
Vesta Radio Batteries. Fig. 160 shows the 6EA Series, "A" Battery.
Fig. 161 shows the V6EA Series, "A" Battery. Fig. 162 shows the R6EA
(Rubber Case) Series, "A" Battery. Fig. 163 shows the "B" Battery.
These batteries have 5, 7, 9 plates per cell, respectively. The plates
are each 5 inches high, 5 7/8 inches wide, and 5/32 inches thick. The
cases for these batteries are furnished in three designs--plain black
boxes (all sizes), finished maple boxes (7 plate size only), and hard
rubber boxes (9 plate size only). These Vesta batteries are the "A"
batteries used for heating the filaments of the audion bulbs. The
Vesta Radio "B" battery, Fig. 163, is a 12 cell, 24 volt battery, with
a 22 and a 20 volt tap.
EXIDE RADIO BATTERIES
[Fig. 164 Exide Radio "A" battery]
The Exide Radio "A" battery, Fig. 164, is made in four sizes, the
capacities ranging from 20 to 120 ampere-hours. The design and
construction of these batteries are similar to the Exide starting
batteries. The over-all height of these batteries is approximately
95/8 inches, the width 7-5/16 inches, while the length varies with the
number of the plates.
Type Cat. No. Length Weight Capacity
-------- -------- ------ ------ --------
3-LXL-3 13735 4-9/16 15-1/2 lbs. 20 amp. hrs.
3-LXL-5 13736 5-11/16 24-1/2 lbs. 40 amp. hrs.
3-LXL-9 13737 9-1/16 42-1/2 lbs. 80 amp. hrs.
3-LXL-13 13750 12-7/16 59-1/2 lbs. 120 amp. hrs.
WILLARD RADIO BATTERIES
The Willard Storage Battery Co. manufactures both "A" and "B" storage
batteries. The Willard "A" battery, Fig. 165, is an all-rubber
battery. The case is a rubber "Monobloc" construction, that is, the
entire case is pressed into shape at one time. There are no separate
jars for the cells, there being rubber partitions which form integral
parts of the case. The case is, therefore, really a solid, one piece,
three compartment jar. The ribs at the bottoms of the compartments are
parts of the one-piece block, and are higher than those found in the
usual starting and lighting battery. Embedded in each side wall of the
case is a bronze button which holds the handle in place. Soft rubber
gaskets of pure gum rubber surround the post to make an acid proof
seal to prevent electrolyte from seeping from the cells. The
separators are the standard Willard "Threaded Rubber" separators.
[Fig. 165, 166, and 167 Various Willard Radio Batteries]
Willard Radio Batteries. Fig. 165 shows the All-Rubber "A" Battery.
Fig. 166 shows the complete "B" Battery. Fig. 167 shows one cell of
the "B" Battery.
The Willard "A" battery comes in five sizes, type WRR97 (20 ampere
hours capacity), type WRRO (50 ampere hours capacity), type WRR1 (89
ampere hours capacity), type WRR2 (100 ampere hours capacity), and
type WRR3 (125 ampere hours capacity).
The Willard "B" storage battery, type CBR124, Figs. 166 and 167, is a
twelve cell battery, each cell consisting of a round glass container
having one negative and one positive plate insulated from each other
by a small "Threaded Rubber" separator. The plates and separators rest
on a hard rubber "bottom rest" which consists of a short length of
hard rubber tube, so formed as to support the plates and separators
and at the same time hold them together. The cells are assembled in a
case which has a separate compartment for each cell. As seen from Fig,
166, the upper parts of the cells project above the top of the case,
which simplifies inspection.
WESTINGHOUSE RADIO BATTERIES
[Fig. 168 Westinghouse Radio "A" battery, Type HR]
[Fig. 169 Westinghouse Radio "B" battery, Type L, and
Fig. 170 Westinghouse Radio "B" battery, Type M]
The Westinghouse Union Battery Co. manufactures both "A" and "B"
storage batteries. Their "ER" type, Fig. 168, is the "A" battery, and
their "L" and "M" types, Figs. 169 and 170, are the "B" batteries. The
HR battery has 3/16 inch thick plates, high rests to provide ample mud
and acid space, and thick separators. Rubber sheets are placed on both
sides of the positive plates. Rubber covered cables are moulded into
the terminals to minimize corrosion at the positive terminal. The "HR"
batteries are made in six and eight volt sizes, with 3 plates per
cell, 5 plates per cell, 9 plates per cell, and 13 plates per cell.
The Westinghouse Radio "B" batteries are made in two sizes. Type
22-M-2, Fig. 170, has a capacity of 1.2 ampere hours at 0.04 ampere.
It is designed to operate a receiving set having one detector and two
amplifier bulbs for three to five weeks between charges. The type
22-L-2 battery, Fig. 169, has a capacity of 4.5 ampere hours at 0.25
ampere.
Part No. Type Volts Amp. Hours at 3 Amps. Weight
Intermittent Rate
-------- ---- ----- --------------------- ------
100110 6-HR-5 6 54 A.H. 30 Lbs.
100111 6-HR-9 6 108 A.H. 46 Lbs.
100112 6-HR-13 6 162 A.H. 65 Lbs.
100135 8-HR-5 8 54 A.H. 40 Lbs.
100136 8-HR-9 8 108 A.H. 60 Lbs.
100137 8-HR-13 8 162 A.H. 87 Lbs.
100145 6-HR-3 6 27 A.H. 20 Lbs.
Part No. Type Volts Capacity Weight
------- ------ ----- -------- ------
100148 22-M-2 22 1.2 A.H. at .04 Amps. 6-1/4 Lbs.
100140 2-L-2 22 1.2 A.H. at 25 Amps. 19-3/4 Lbs.
PHILADELPHIA RADIO BATTERIES
[Fig. 171 Philadelphia Radio "A" battery]
The Philadelphia Storage Battery Co. makes both "A" and "B" Radio
batteries. The "A" battery, Fig. 171, uses the standard diamond-grid
plates, and the "Philco Slotted Retainer" used in Philadelphia
starting batteries. The cases of the "A" batteries are made of
hardwood, finished in an ebonite black. Soft rubber insulating feet on
the bottom of the case prevent scratching any table or varnished floor
on which the battery may be set. The instructions for preparing the
Philadelphia "A" battery for service are similar to those given for
the starting and lighting batteries, given on page 228. For the
initial filling, 1.220 electrolyte is used, and the battery charged at
the following rates:
Initial and Recharge Charging Rate
----------------------------------
Type Initial Rate Recharge Rate
---- ------------ -------------
56LAR 1.0 2
56RAR 2.0 3
76RAR 3.0 4.5
96RAR 4.0 6
116RAR 5.6 7.5
136RAR 6.0 9
The final gravity of the electrolyte should be 1.250. However, if the
owner insists on getting maximum capacity, the battery may be filled
with 1.250 electrolyte and balanced to 1.290 at the end of the charge.
[Fig. 172 Philadelphia Radio "B" battery]
The Philadelphia Radio "B" battery, type 224-RB, Fig. 172, has 12
cells contained in a one-piece rubber case. It is shipped dry, and
requires no initial charge. To prepare it for service, the soft rubber
vent caps are removed and 25 c. c. of 1.250 electrolyte poured into
each cell.
U. S. L. RADIO BATTERY
[Fig. 173 U.S.L. Radio "A" battery]
The U. S. L. Radio "A" battery, Fig. 173, uses 1/4 inch positives,
with 3/16 inch intermediate and 1/8 inch outside negatives. Port
Orford cedar separators are used which are four times as thick as the
usual starting battery separator. The case is made of hardwood, and is
varnished to match cabinet work. The electrolyte has a specific
gravity of 1.220. The heavy plates and separators and the low gravity
of the electrolyte are designed to give long life.
Ampere Ampere Hour
Plates Hour Capacity
per Capacity (or intermittent
Type Cell @ 3 Amperes use) Dimensions Weight
---- ---- ----------- ---------------- ---------- ------
DXA-303-X 3 12 20 5-3/16 x 18
7-1/4 x 9-1/4
DXA-305-X 5 40 60 9-1/8 x 7-1/4 39
x 9-1/4
DXA-307-X 7 70 85 11-3/4 x 7-7/16 48
x 9-1/4
DXA-309-X 9 98 115 14-3/8 x 7-7/16 59
x 9-1/4
PREST-O-LITE RADIO BATTERIES
The Prest-O-Lite Co. makes two lines of Radio "A" Batteries. First, an
inexpensive battery, Fig. 174, and a deluxe battery, Fig. 175, which
has a better finish and appearance. Both types have a mahogany
finished case with rubber feet to prevent damaging furniture. A bail
handle simplifies the carrying of the battery. Capacities range from
47 ampere-hours to 127 ampere-hours at a one ampere discharge rate.
[Fig. 174 & 175 Presto-O-Lite Radio "A" battery]
Table of Prest-O-Lite Radio Batteries
-------------------------------------
Hours Discharge at Rate of:
Type 1 Amp. 2 Amps. 3 Amps. 5 Amps. 10 Amps.
------- ------ ------- ------- ------- --------
67 WHNR 47.5 21.7 13.6 7.5 3.0
69 WHNR 66 30 18.9 10.5 4.5
611 WHNR 82.8 38.5 24.3 13.5 6.0
67 KPNR 95 44.2 27.8 15.0 6.5
69 KPNR 127 61.5 38.5 21.5 9.5
UNIVERSAL RADIO BATTERIES
[Fig. 176 Universal Type WR, Radio "A" battery]
The Universal Battery Co. manufacture three types of Radio "A" storage
batteries. Type WR, Fig. 176, has three sealed hard rubber jars
assembled in a hardwood case which is stained and finished in
mahogany. The separators are made of Port Orford cedar and are 1/8
inch thick, about twice the thickness of the separator used in
starting and lighting batteries. The plates also are much thicker than
the standard starting and lighting battery plate. The type WR battery
comes in three sizes. Types WR-5, WR-7, and WR-9, having capacities of
60, 85, and 105 ampere hours, respectively, at a 3 ampere rate.
The Universal type RR radio "A" battery, Fig. 177, is assembled in a
hard rubber combination case, which is a solid piece of rubber divided
into three compartments. This gives a compact, acid proof case. This
battery also comes in three sizes, types RR-5, RR-7, and RR-9, having
capacities of 60, 85 and 105 ampere hours, respectively, at a three
ampere discharge rate.
[Fig. 177 Universal Type RR, Radio "A" battery]
[Fig. 178 Universal Type GR, Radio "A" battery]
The Universal type GR radio "A" battery, Fig. 178, is assembled in
three sealed glass jars which are placed in a mahogany finished wooden
crate. This construction makes the cell interiors visible, enabling
the owner to detect troubles and to watch the action of the cells on
charge and discharge. The GR battery comes in two sizes, GR-5 and
GR-Jr., having respective capacities of 60 and 16 ampere hours at a 3
ampere discharge rate.
"DRY" STORAGE BATTERIES
During the past year or two, so-called "dry" starting and lighting
storage batteries have appeared on the market. This class includes
batteries having "dry," "semi-dry," and "jelly" electrolytes. The
claims made for these batteries are that there is nothing to evaporate
and that the periodical addition of water is therefore unnecessary,
that spilling and slopping of electrolyte is impossible, and that
injurious sulphation does not take place.
The "dry" storage battery is not a new idea, for as much as
thirty-five years ago, the Oerlikon Company of Switzerland
manufactured "dry" electrolyte storage batteries in commercial
quantities. These batteries were for a long time a distinct success
for work requiring only low rates of discharge. For high rates of
discharge the lack of diffusion, due to the absence of a liquid
electrolyte, reduces the capacity. The lack of diffusion will cause a
rapid drop in voltage when cranking the engine! and a slow recovery
after the engine begins to run under its own power.
The manufacturers of the "dry" storage batteries, of course, claim
that their batteries are more efficient and satisfactory than the
standard "wet" battery, but it has been impossible to get sufficient
data from the manufacturers to go into detail on the subject.
Several of the largest of "wet" battery manufacturers formerly made
"dry" storage batteries for lighting and ignition service, but when
starting motors came into use, discarded the "dry" batteries in favor
of the present "wet" storage batteries.
DISCHARGE TESTS
Discharge tests may be divided into four general classes:
(a) Brief High Rate Discharge Tests to determine condition of battery.
These tests are made for 15 seconds at a high rate.
(b) Lighting Ability Discharge Tests.
(c) Starting Ability Discharge Tests.
(d) "Cycling" Discharge Tests.
The 15 Seconds High Rate Discharge Test
The 1.5 seconds high rate discharge test is a valuable aid in
determining the condition of a battery, particularly where the
hydrometer readings give false indications, such as is the case when
electrolyte or acid is added to a cell instead of water to replace
evaporation. Only two or three percent of the battery capacity is
consumed by the test, and it is not usually necessary to recharge the
battery after making the test. The test must be made in conjunction
with hydrometer readings, as otherwise it might give false indications
itself. Both incoming and outgoing batteries may be tested, and the
method of testing depends upon whether the battery is coming in for
repairs, or is going out after having been charged, repaired, or
worked on in any way. In either case, the test consists of discharging
the battery at a high rate for a short time, and taking voltage
readings and making observations while the battery is discharging.
[Fig. 179 Making a 20 seconds high rate discharge test]
Rates of Discharge. It is not necessary to have any definitely fixed
discharge rate. The rate should merely be high enough to reveal any
improperly burned joints, short-circuited cells, or cells low in
capacity for any reason. The discharge tester is suitable for all
batteries used on cars and trucks.
For an Incoming Battery. Take a hydrometer reading of each cell. If
the readings are all below 1.200 and are within 50 points of each
other, most likely all the battery needs is a bench charge, with a
possible adjustment of the gravity of the electrolyte at the end of
the charge. The discharge test should in this case be made after the
battery has been fully charged.
If the gravity readings are all above 1.200, or if the reading of one
cell differs from the others by 50 points or more, make the discharge
test, as shown in Fig. 179.
After fifteen seconds, read the voltage of each cell. If the cells are
uniformly low in voltage; that is, below 1.5 volts per cell, the
battery needs recharging. If the voltage readings of the cells differ
by 0.1.0 volt or more and the battery is fairly well charged, there is
something wrong in the cell having the low reading, and the battery
should be opened and examined. With a discharged battery the
difference in cell voltage will be greater, depending on the extent of
the discharge, and only experience can guide in drawing correct
conclusions. A short-circuited cell will give a very low voltage
reading. Remember that the actual voltage reading is not as important
in indicating a defective cell as the difference between the voltage
readings of the cells. A cell which gives a voltage which is 0.1 volt
or more less than the others is generally defective.
For Outgoing New, Charged, or Repaired Batteries. Just before putting
the battery into service, make the test as a check on the internal
condition of the battery, particularly if the battery has been
repaired or has stood for sometime since being charged. (It is assumed
that the battery has been charged and the gravity of the electrolyte
properly adjusted when the test is made.)
The battery should not show more than 0.10 volt difference between any
two cells at the end of 15 seconds, and no cell should show a voltage
less than 1.75 volts, and the voltage should remain fairly constant
during the test. If every cell reads below 1.75 volts, the battery has
not been completely charged. If one cell is more than 0.10 volt lower
than the others, or if its voltage falls off rapidly, that cell still
needs repairs, or is insufficiently charged, or else the top
connectors are not burned on properly. Top connectors which heat up
during the test are not burned on properly.
Lighting Ability Discharge Tests
These are tests continuing for 5 hours to a final voltage of 1.7 per
cell. These tests are not of as great an interest as the Starting
Ability Tests, description of which follows:
Starting Ability Discharge Tests
The Society of Automotive Engineers recommends two ratings for
starting and lighting batteries:
"Batteries for combined lighting and starting service shall have two
ratings. The first shall indicate the lighting ability and be the
capacity in ampere-hours of the battery when discharged continuously
at the 5 hour rate to a final voltage of not less than 1.7 per cell,
the temperature of the battery beginning such a discharge being 80
deg. Fahr. The second rating shall indicate the starting ability and
shall be the capacity in ampere-hours when the battery is discharged
continuously at the 20 minute rate to a final voltage of not less than
1.50 per cell, the temperature of the battery beginning such discharge
being 80 deg. Fahr."
The capacity in ampere-hours given by manufacturers is for a
continuous discharge for 5 hours. In the battery shop, however, the
"starting-ability" discharge test is the test which should be made,
though the conditions of the test are changed somewhat. To make this
test, the battery should be fully charged. Connect a rheostat to the
battery terminals and adjust the rheostat to draw about 100 amperes
from an 11 plate battery, 120 amperes from a 13 plate battery, 135
amperes from a 15 plate battery, 155 amperes from a 17 plate battery,
170 amperes from a 19 plate battery and so on. Continue the discharge
for 20 minutes, keeping the discharge current constant, and taking
voltage readings of each cell at the start, and at the end of 5, 10,
15, and 20 minutes. At the end of 20 minutes, if the battery is in
good condition, the voltage of each cell should not be less than 1.5,
and the temperature of the electrolyte in any cell should not exceed
95 degrees Fahrenheit, provided that the temperature at the start was
about 80 degrees.
The cell voltages should drop slowly during the test. If the voltage
begins to drop rapidly during the test, as shown by the current
falling off so rapidly that it is difficult to keep it at 100 amperes,
measure the cell voltages quickly to see which cells are dropping
rapidly. An example of a 100 ampere test on a good rebuilt cell with
eleven plates is as follows:
Voltage immediately after start of discharge, 1.88. After 5 minutes,
1.86 volts. After 10 minutes, 1.80 volts. After 15 minutes, 1.72
volts. After 20 minutes, 1.5 volts.
If the voltage of a cell begins to fall off rapidly before the twenty
minutes are up, but not before 15 minutes, the cell needs "cycling"
(charging and discharging) to bring it up to capacity.
If the voltage drops rapidly before the end of 15 minutes, the plates
are low in capacity, due to age, or some defect. It is not safe to
expect very good service from a cell which will not stand up for 20
minutes before de voltage begins to drop rapidly.
If the rapid voltage drop begins very much before 20 minutes, it is
very doubtful whether the battery will give good service. Comparisons
of the results of tests with the service which the battery gives after
installed on the car will soon enable the repairman to tell from the
results of the tests just what to expect from any battery.
The "starting-ability" test should be made on all batteries which have
been rebuilt whenever there is time to do so and on all batteries
about which there is any doubt as to what service they will give.
After the test, the batteries should be put on the line again and
charged before sending them out.
The rates of discharge given here for the "starting-ability" tests may
be varied if experience with a particular make of battery shows some
other rate to be better. The important thing is to use the same rate
of discharge for the same make and type of battery at all times. In
this way the repairman will soon be able to distinguish between good
and bad batteries of a particular make and type.
Cadmium Tests may be made during the Starting Ability Discharge Tests.
See page 174.
"Cycling" Discharge Tests
New batteries, or rebuilt batteries which have had new plates
installed, or sulphated batteries which will not "come up" on charge,
should be discharged when they have "come-up," as far as they will go.
In some cases it is necessary to charge and discharge them several
times before they will be ready for service. This charging and
discharging is often called "cycling" the battery.
New batteries are generally "cycled" at the factory before sending
them out. The forming charge generally does not convert all the pastes
into active material and the battery using plates which have been
treated in the forming room is put through several discharges and
charges after the battery is fully assembled. In service on a car, the
battery is being "cycled" constantly and there is generally an
increase in capacity after a battery is put on a car. Positive plates
naturally increase in capacity, sometimes up to the very clay when
they fall to pieces, while negatives tend to lose capacity with age.
Batteries which are assembled in the service station, using new
plates, generally require several cycles of charge and discharge
before the specific gravity will rise to 1.280 before the positives
will give 2.4-2.5 volts on a Cadmium test, before the negatives will
give a reversed voltage reading of 0.175 to 0.20 volt on a Cadmium
test, and before a satisfactory "starting-ability" or "breakdown" test
can be made.
A battery which has been abused by failing to add water to replace
evaporation, by allowing to remain in a partially or completely
discharged condition for sometime, or which has been allowed to become
sulphated in any other way, will generally require "cycling" before it
will "come-up" to a serviceable condition.
The rates for a "cycling" discharge should be such that the battery
will be discharged during the daytime, the discharge being started in
the morning, and the battery being put back oil the charging line in
the evening in order that it may be charging during the night. The
rate of discharge should be somewhat higher than the rate used when
the plates are formed. Two or three amperes per positive plate in each
cell will generally be satisfactory.
Discharge Apparatus
A simple discharge rheostat is shown in Fig. 180. The terminal on the
end of the cable attached to the right hand terminal of the battery
shown in the illustration is movable, and it may be clamped at any
point along the coils of wire so as to give various currents. The wire
should be greased lightly to prevent rusting.
[Fig. 180 Simple high rate discharge rheostat]
Another simple apparatus consists of a board on which are mounted six
double contact automobile lamp sockets which are all connected in
parallel. A pair of leads having test clips attached is brought out
from the sockets for fastening to the battery terminals. Lamps of
various candlepower may be turned into the sockets to obtain different
currents.
Discharge tests are helpful in the case of a battery that has lost
capacity. The battery is first fully charged, and is then discharged
at the 5 hour rate. When the voltage of the battery has fallen to 1.7
volts per cell (measured while the battery is discharging) a Cadmium
test is made to determine whether the positives or negatives are
causing the lack of capacity. For further descriptions of the Cadmium
Test see Page 174.
In reviving sulphated batteries, it is sometimes necessary to charge
and discharge the battery several times to put the active material in
a healthy condition.
Discharge tests at a high rate are very valuable in diagnosing the
condition of a battery. A description of such tests will be found on
Page 267. For making the heavy discharge tests a rheostat of the
carbon plate type is suitable. With such a rheostat currents from 25
to more than 200 may be drawn from a six volt battery, and a smooth,
even variation of a current may be obtained from the minimum to the
maximum values. Such a rheostat is on the market and may be purchased
complete with ammeter and leads for attaching to the battery.
PACKING BATTERIES FOR SHIPPING
Batteries which are shipped without electrolyte need merely have
plenty of excelsior placed around them in a strong crate for
protection from mechanical injury.
Batteries which are shipped filled with electrolyte must be protected
from mechanical injury and must also be packed so that it is difficult
to turn the crate upside down and thus allow the electrolyte to run
out. A very popular crate has been the so-called "dog-house," with a
gable roof such as is actually used on dog-houses. The idea of such a
roof is that it is impossible to place the crate with the roof down,
since it will tip over if this is done. However, if these crates are
placed side by side, it is a very simple matter to put a second row of
crates on top of them, turning the second row up-side-down, as shown
in Fig. 181, and allowing the electrolyte to run out. The men who load
freight or express-cars have often shown great skill and cunning in
packing "dog-house" crates in other ways so as to damage the
batteries. Many have attained a high degree of perfection in breaking
the crates.
[Fig. 181 "Dog-house" crates for shipping batteries]
Some sort of a roof on a battery crate is required by law, the idea
being to make it difficult to turn the crate up-side-down. Perhaps the
best crate would be one with a flat top marked "This Side Up," but
such a crate would not comply with the law.
[Fig. 182 Steps for construction of a crate for shipping
battery]
A better form of crate than the "dog-house" and one which complies
with the law, is shown in Fig. 182. The top of each end piece is cut
at an angle, the peak on one end being placed opposite the low point
of the opposite end piece. Fig. 182 shows the steps in the
construction of the crate.
1. The case should be built of strong lumber (11/2 inch preferably),
and of ample size to allow packing with excelsior top, bottom, sides
and ends to a thickness of two or three inches. Nail strongly.
2. When the case is complete (except cover) place a thick, even layer
of excelsior (or packing straw) in the bottom and set in *he battery
right side up. Lay paper (preferably paraffined) over top of battery
to keep it clean, then pack tightly with excelsior sides and ends.
3. Now lay sufficient packing material on top of the battery so that
cover will compress it tightly, stuffing it under cover boards as they
are put on.
The extended boards at bottom, and the gable roof are provided to
prevent the battery from being tipped over; extensions of sides for
carrying. Box should be plainly labeled: "HANDLE WITH CARE. DAMAGES
CLAIMED IF TIPPED ON SIDE." In addition to the address of destination,
as given in shipping instructions be sure to mark with name of shipper
for identification upon arrival. When shipping by freight, the proper
freight classification in the United States is "Electric Storage
Batteries, Assembled." When shipping by express in the United States,
"Acid" caution labels must be attached to each package.
STORING SEPARATORS
Separators which have been given the chemical treatment necessary to
remove the substances which would cause trouble in the battery, and to
make the wood porous, must be kept wet and never be allowed to become
dry. A lead lined box, or large earthenware jars may be used as
containers. Put the separators in the container and then pour in
enough very weak electrolyte to cover the separators. This electrolyte
may be made of I part of 1.220 electrolyte to 10 parts of distilled
water, by volume. Be very careful to have the container absolutely
clean and to use chemically pure acid and distilled water in making
the weak electrolyte. Remember that impurities which are picked up by
the separators will go into the battery in which the separators are
placed. Therefore, keep the separator tank in a clean place and keep a
cover on it. Have your hands clean when you take separators out of the
tank to place in a battery, and do not put the separators on a dirty
bench before inserting them between plates. The best thing to do is to
hold the separators in one hand and insert them with the other, and
not lay them on any bench at all.
REINSULATION
Separators are the weakest part of a battery and wear out while the
other parts of a battery are still in good condition. Good plates are
often ruined by weakened separators causing short-circuits. Many
batteries which have to be junked after being in service about a year
would have given considerable service if they had been reinsulated.
Generally the separators of one cell wear out before those of the
other cells. Do not, however, reinsulate that cell alone. The
separators in the other cells are as old as those which have worn out,
and are very near the breaking down point. If you reinsulate only one
cell, the owner will naturally assume that the other cells are in good
condition. What happens? A month or so later one of the other cells
"goes dead." This does not have a very soothing effect on the owner,
who will begin to lose confidence in you and begin to look around for
another service station.
If you explain frankly that it is useless to reinsulate only one cell
of a battery and that the other cells will break down in a short time,
the customer will want you to reinsulate all the cells. A somewhat
higher bill for reinsulating all the cells at once will be more
agreeable than having the cells break down one at a time within a
month or two.
In the case of the customers who come in regularly for testing and
filling service, you will be able to tell when the separators are
wearing out. When you find that a battery which has been in service
about a year begins to run down frequently, and successive tests made
in connection with testing and filling service show that the generator
is not able to keep the battery charged, advise the owner to have the
battery reinsulated. Do not wait for the battery to have a dead cell.
Sell the owner on the idea that reinsulation will prevent the
possibility of his battery breaking down when he may be out on a tour,
and when it may be necessary to have his car towed in to a service
station. If you allow the battery to remain on the car when it begins
to lose its charge, the owner will not, of course, suspect that
anything is wrong, and if his battery one day breaks down suddenly,
lie will very likely lose confidence both in you and the battery,
since he has been bringing in his car regularly in order to have his
battery kept in good shape. The sudden failure of his battery will,
therefore, make him believe that you do not know your business, or
that the battery is a poor one.
New separators will give every battery which is a year old a new lease
on life. If you explain to a customer that he will get a much longer
period of service from his battery if he has it reinsulated when the
battery is a year old, you should have no trouble in getting the job,
and the subsequent performance of the battery will show that you knew
what you were talking about.
SAFETY FIRST FOR THE BATTERY REPAIRMAN
1. Do not work on an empty stomach-you can then absorb lead easily.
2. Keep your fingers out of your mouth when at work.
3. Keep your finger nails short and clean.
4. Do not chew tobacco while at work. In handling tobacco, the lead
oxides are carried to your mouth. Chewing tobacco does not prevent you
from swallowing lead.
5. When you leave the shop at night, and before eating, wash your
face, hands, and arms with soap, and clean your nose, mouth, and
finger nails.
6. Do not eat in the repair shop.
7. Drink plenty of good milk. It prevents lead poisoning.
8. Use Epsom Salts when constipated. This is very important.
9. Bathe frequently to prevent lead poisoning.
10. Leave your working clothes in the shop.
11. It is better not to wear a beard or mustache. Keep your hair
covered with a cap.
12. Before sweeping the shop dampen the floor to keep down the dust.
13. Do not drink beer or whisky, or any other alcoholic liquors. These
weaken your system and make you more susceptible to lead poisoning.
14. In handling lead, wear gloves as much as possible, and wash and
dry the gloves every day that you wear them.
15. Wear goggles to keep lead and acid out of your eyes.
16. When melting lead in a hydrogen flame, as in burning on the top
connectors, the fumes given off may be blown away by a stream of air.
The air supply to the flame may be tapped for this purpose.
17. The symptoms of lead poisoning are: gums darken or become blue,
indigestion, colic, constipation, loss of appetite, muscular pain. In
the later stages there is muscular weakness and paralysis. The hands
become limp and useless.
18. Wear rubber shoes or boots. Leather shoes should be painted with a
hot mixture of equal parts of paraffine and beeswax.
19. Wear woolen clothes if possible. Cotton clothing should be dipped
in a strong solution of baking soda and dried. Wear a flannel apron
covered with sacking.
20. Keep a bottle of strong ammonia handy. If you should spill acid on
your clothes, apply some of the ammonia immediately to neutralize the
acid, which will otherwise burn a hole in your clothes.
21. Keep a stone, earthenware, or porcelain jar filled with a solution
of washing soda or baking soda (bicarbonate of soda). Rinse your hands
in this solution occasionally to prevent the acid from irritating them.
22. If you should splash acid in your eye, wash it out immediately
with warm water, and drop olive oil on the eye. If you have no olive
oil at hand, do not wait to get some, but use any, lubricating oil, or
vaseline.
TESTING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
"Out of sight, out of mind," is a familiar saying. But when does it
hold true?
What about the battery repairman? Are the batteries he repairs "out of
sight, out of mind?" Does his responsibility end when he has installed
a battery on a car? Suppose he put a battery in first class shape,
installs it on a car, and, after a week or two the battery comes back,
absolutely dead? Is the battery at fault, or is the repairman to
blame for neglecting to make sure that the battery would be given a
reasonably good chance to give good service and receive fair treatment
from the other part of the electrical system?
The actual work on the battery is finished when the battery cables are
fastened to the battery terminals. But real battery SERVICE does not
end there. The battery is the most important part of the electrical
system of a car, but it is only one part, and a good battery cannot be
expected to give satisfactory service when it is connected to the
other parts of the electrical system without making sure that these
parts are working properly, any more than a man wearing new, shoes can
step into a mud puddle and not have his shoes covered with dirt.
The battery functions by means of the current which flows through it
by way of the cables which are connected to its terminals. A battery
is human in many respects. It must have both food and exercise and
there must be a proper balance between the food and the exercise. Too
much food for the amount of exercise, or too much exercise for the
amount of food consumed will both lead to a lowering of efficiency,
and disease frequently results. A battery exercises when it turns over
the starting motor, furnishes energy to the lamps, or operates the a
ignition system. It receives food when it is charged. Proper attention
to the electrical system will result in a correct balance between food
and exercise, or in other words, charge and discharge.
The electrical equipment of a car consists of five principal parts: