with the land, which the crown voluntarily bestows on its faithful
subjects, has been adopted, one thing appears evident, namely, that it
has very considerably retarded the improvement of both the provinces;
and indeed, as long as it is continued, they must both remain very
backward countries, compared with any of the adjoining states. Were an
opposite system, however, pursued, and the lands granted merely with
such restrictions as were found absolutely necessary, in order to
prevent jobbing, the happy effects of a measure of that nature would
soon become visible; the face of the country would be quickly
meliorated, and it is probable that there would not be any part of North
America, where they would, after a short period, be able to boast that
improvement had taken place more rapidly.
[Sidenote: OBSERVATIONS.]
It is very certain, that were the lands granted in this manner, many
more people would annually emigrate into Canada from the United States
than at present; for there are numbers who come yearly into the country
to “explore it,” that return back solely because they cannot get lands
with an indisputable title; I have repeatedly met with these people
myself in Upper Canada, and have heard them express the utmost
disappointment at not being able to get lands on such terms even for
money; I have heard others in the States also speak to the same purport
after they had been in Canada; it is highly probable, moreover, that
many of the people, who leave Great Britain and Ireland for America,
would then be induced to settle in Canada instead of the United States,
and the British empire would not, in that case, lose, as it does now,
thousands of valuable citizens every year.
What are the general inducements, may here be asked, to people to quit
Great Britain for the United States? They have been summed up by Mr.
Cooper[39], in his letters published in 1794, on the subject of
emigrating to America; and we cannot have recourse, _on the whole_, to
better authority.
Footnote 39:
Mr. Cooper, late of Manchester, who emigrated to America with all his
family, and whose authority has been very generally quoted by the
Americans who have since written on the subject of emigration.
[Sidenote: OBSERVATIONS.]
“In my mind,” he says, “the first and principal inducement to a person
to quit England for America is, _the total absence of anxiety respecting
the future success of a family_. There is little fault to find with the
government of America, that is, of the United States, either in
principle or practice. There are few taxes to pay, and those are of
acknowledged necessity, and moderate in amount. There are no animosities
about religion, and it is a subject about which few questions are asked;
there are few respecting political men or political measures; the
present irritation of men’s minds in Great Britain, and the discordant
state of society on political accounts, is not known there. The
government is the government of the people, and for the people. There
are no tythes nor game laws; and excise laws upon spirits only, and
similar to the British only in name. There are no great men of rank, nor
many of great riches; nor have the rich the power of oppressing the less
rich, for poverty is almost unknown; nor are the streets crowded with
beggars. You see no where the disgusting and melancholy contrast, so
common in Europe, of vice and filth, and rags and wretchedness, in the
immediate neighbourhood of the most wanton extravagance, and the most
useless and luxurious parade; nor are the common people so depraved as
in Great Britain. Quarrels are uncommon, and boxing matches unknown in
the streets. There are no military to keep the people in awe. Robberies
are very rare. All these are real advantages; but great as they are,
they do not weigh with me so much as the single consideration first
mentioned.”
Any person that has travelled generally through the United States must
acknowledge, that Mr. Cooper has here spoken with great partiality; for
as to the morality and good order that prevails amongst the people, he
has applied to all of them what only holds true with respect to those
who live in the most improved parts of the country.
He is extremely inaccurate also, in representing the people of the
States as free from all animosities about political measures; on the
contrary, there is no country on the face of the globe, perhaps, where
party spirit runs higher, where political subjects are more frequently
the topic of conversation amongst all classes, and where such subjects
are more frequently the cause of rancorous disputations and lasting
differences amongst the people. I have repeatedly been in towns where
one half of the inhabitants would scarcely deign to speak to the other
half, on account of the difference of their political opinions; and it
is scarcely possible, in any part of the country, to remain for a few
hours in a mixed company of men, without witnessing some acrimonious
dispute from the same cause.
Let us, however, compare the inducements which he holds out to people in
England to leave that country for America, that is, for the United
States, with the inducements there would be to settle in Canada, under
the premised supposition, that the land was there granted in an
unexceptionable manner.
From the land being plentiful in Canada, and consequently at a very low
price, but likely to increase in value, whilst in the States, on the
contrary, it has risen to an exorbitant value, beyond which it is not
likely to rise for some time to come, there can be no doubt but that a
man of moderate property could provide for his family with much more
ease in Canada than in the United States, as far as land were his
object.
[Sidenote: OBSERVATIONS.]
In Canada, also, there is a much greater opening for young men
acquainted with any business or profession that can be carried on in
America, than there is in the United States. The expence of settling in
Canada would be far less also than in any one of the States; for in the
former country the necessaries and conveniencies of life are remarkably
cheap, whilst, on the contrary, in the other they are far dearer than in
England; a man therefore would certainly have no greater anxiety about
the future success of a family in Canada than in the United States, and
the absence of this anxiety, according to Mr. Cooper, _is the great
inducement to settle in the States, which weighs with him more than all
other considerations put together_.
The taxes of Lower Canada have already been enumerated; they are of
acknowledged necessity, and much lower in amount and number than those
paid in the States.
There are no animosities in Canada about religion, and people of all
persuasions are on a perfect equality with each other, except, indeed,
it be the protestant dissenters, who may happen to live on lands that
were subject to tithes under the French government; they have to pay
tithes to the English episcopalian clergy; but there is not a dissenter
living on tithe lands, perhaps, in the whole province. The lands granted
since the conquest are not liable to tithes. The English episcopalian
clergy are provided for by the crown out of the waste lands; and all
dissenters have simply to pay their own clergy.
There are no game laws in Canada, nor any excise laws whatsoever.
As for the observation made by Mr. Cooper in respect to the military, it
is almost too futile to deserve notice. If a soldier, however, be an
object of terror, the timid man will not find himself at ease in the
United States any more than in England, as he will meet with soldiers in
New York, on Governor’s Island, at Mifflin Fort near Philadelphia, at
the forts on the North River, at Niagara, at Detroit, and at Oswego, &c.
on the lakes, and all through the western country, at the different
posts which were established by General Wayne.
In every other respect, what Mr. Cooper has said of the United States
holds good with regard to Canada; nay more, it must certainly in
addition be allowed by every unprejudiced person that has been in both
countries, that morality and good order are much more conspicuous
amongst the Canadians of every description, than the people of the
States; drunkenness is undoubtedly much less common amongst them, as is
gambling, and also quarrels.
[Sidenote: OBSERVATIONS.]
But independent of these inducements to settle in Canada, there is still
another circumstance which ought to weigh greatly with every British
emigrant, according to the opinion even of Mr. Cooper himself. After
advising his friends “to go where land is cheap and fertile, and where
it is in a progress of improvement,” he recommends them “to go
somewhere, if possible, _in the neighbourhood of a few English_, whose
society, even in America, is interesting to an English settler, who
cannot entirely relinquish the _memoria temporis acti_;” that is, as he
particularly mentions in another passage, “he will find their manners
and conversation far more agreeable than those of the Americans,” and
from being chiefly in their company, he will not be so often tormented
with the painful reflection, that he has not only left, but absolutely
renounced his native country, and the men whom he once held dear above
all others, and united himself, in their stead, with people whose vain
boasts and ignorant assertions, however harsh and grating they may sound
to his ears, he must listen to without murmuring.
Now in Canada, particularly in Lower Canada, in the neighbourhood of
Quebec and Montreal, an English settler would find himself surrounded by
his countrymen; and although his moderate circumstances should have
induced him to leave England, yet he would not be troubled with the
disagreeable reflection that he had totally renounced his native land,
and sworn allegiance to a foreign power; he would be able to consider
with heartfelt satisfaction, that he was living under the protection of
the country wherein he had drawn his first breath; that he was
contributing to her prosperity, and the welfare of many of his
countrymen, while he was ameliorating his own fortune.
From a due consideration of every one of the before mentioned
circumstances, it appears evident to me, that there is no part of
America so suitable to an English or Irish settler as the vicinity of
Montreal or Quebec in Canada, and within twenty miles of each of these
places there is ample room for thousands of additional inhabitants.
I must not omit here to give some account of a new settlement in the
neighbourhood of Quebec, which I and my fellow travellers visited in
company with some neighbouring gentlemen, as it may in some degree tend
to confirm the truth of what I have said respecting the impolicy of
withholding indisputable titles to the lands lately granted by the
crown, and as it may serve at the same time to shew how many eligible
spots for new settlements are to be found in the neighbourhood of this
city.
We set off from Quebec in calashes, and following, with a little
deviation only, the course of the River St. Charles, arrived on the
margin of the lake of the same name, about twelve miles distant from
Quebec.
[Sidenote: RIVER AND LAKE ST. CHARLES.]
The River St. Charles flows from the lake into the bason, near Quebec;
at its mouth it is about thirty yards wide, but not navigable for boats,
except for a few miles up, owing to the numerous rocks and falls. In the
spring of the year, when it is much swollen by floods, rafts have been
conducted down the whole way from the lake, but this has not been
accomplished without great difficulty, some danger, and a considerable
loss of time in passing the different portages. The distance from the
lake to Quebec being so short, land carriage must always be preferred to
a water conveyance along this river, except it be for timber.
The course of the St. Charles is very irregular; in some places it
appears almost stagnant, whilst in others it shoots with wonderful
impetuosity over deep beds of rocks. The views upon it are very
romantic, particularly in the neighbourhood of Lorette, a village of the
Huron Indians, where the river, after falling in a beautiful cascade
over a ledge of rocks, winds through a deep dell, shaded on each side
with tall trees.
The face of the country between Quebec and the lake is extremely
pleasing, and in the neighbourhood of the city, where the settlements
are numerous, well cultivated; but as you retire from it the settlements
become fewer and fewer, and the country of course appears wilder. From
the top of a hill, about half a mile from the lake, which commands a
fine view of that and the adjacent country, not more than five or six
houses are to be seen, and beyond these there is no settlement beside
that on Stoneham township, the one under immediate notice.
On arriving at the lake, we found two canoes in waiting for us, and
embarked on board.
[Sidenote: STONEHAM TOWNSHIP.]
Lake St. Charles is about four miles and a half in length, and its
breadth on an average about three quarters of a mile; It consists of two
bodies of water nearly of the same size; they communicate together by a
narrow pass, through which a smart current sets towards Quebec. The
scenery along the lower part of the lake is uninteresting, but along the
upper part of it the views are highly picturesque, particularly upon a
first entrance through the pass. The lake is here interspersed with
large rocks; and close to the water on one side, as far as the eye can
reach, rocks and trees appear blended together in the most beautiful
manner. The shores are bold, and richly ornamented with hanging woods;
and the head of the lake being concealed from the view by several little
promontories, you are led to imagine that the body of water is far more
extensive than in reality. Towards the upper end the view is terminated
by a range of blue hills, which appear at a distance, peeping over the
tops of the tall trees. When a few settlements come to be made here,
open to the lake, for the land bordering upon it is quite in its natural
state, this must indeed be a heavenly little spot.
The depth of the water in the lake is about eight feet, in some places
more, in others less. The water is clear, and as several small streams
fall into it to supply what runs off by the River St. Charles, it is
kept constantly in a state of circulation; but it is not well tasted,
owing as is conceived to the bottom being in some parts overgrown with
weeds. Prodigious numbers of bull frogs, however, are found about the
shores, which shews that springs of good water abound near it, for these
creatures are never met with but where the water is of a good quality.
At the upper part of the lake we landed, and having proceeded for about
half a mile over some low ground bare of trees, from being annually
flooded on the dissolution of the snow, we struck into the woods. Here a
road newly cut soon attracted our attention, and following the course of
it for a mile or two, we at last espied, through a sudden opening
between the trees, the charming little settlement.
The dwelling house, a neat boarded little mansion painted white,
together with the offices, were situated on a small eminence; to the
right, at the bottom of the slope, stood the barn, the largest in all
Canada, with a farm yard exactly in the English style; behind the barn
was laid out a neat garden, at the bottom of which, over a bed of
gravel, ran a purling stream of the purest water, deep enough, except in
a very dry season, to float a large canoe. A small lawn laid down in
grass appeared in front of the house, ornamented with clumps of pines,
and in its neighbourhood were about sixty acres of cleared land. The
common method of clearing land in America is to grub up all the
brushwood and small trees merely, and to cut down the large trees about
two feet above the ground: the remaining slumps rot in from six to ten
years, according to the quality of the timber; in the mean time the
farmer ploughs between them the best way he can, and where they are very
numerous he is sometimes obliged to use even the spade or the hoe to
turn up the soil. The lands, however, at this settlement had been
cleared in a different manner, for the trees and roots had all been
grubbed up at once. This mode of proceeding is extremely expensive, so
that few of those destined to make new settlements could afford to adopt
it; and, moreover, it has not been accurately proved that it is the most
profitable one; but the appearance of lands so cleared is greatly
superior to those cleared in the common method.
[Sidenote: NEAT FARM.]
In another respect also the lands at this settlement had been cleared in
a superior manner to what is commonly to be met with in America; for
large clumps of trees were left adjoining to the house, and each field
was encircled with wood, whereby the crops were secured from the bad
effects of storms. The appearance of cultivated fields thus situated, as
it were, in the midst of a forest, was inconceivably beautiful.
The economy of this little farm equalled its beauty, The fields, neatly
fenced in and furnished with handsome gates, were cultivated according
to the Norfolk system of husbandry, and had been brought to yield the
most plentiful crops of every different sort of grain; the farm yard was
filled with as fine cattle as could be seen in any country; and the
dairy afforded excellent butter, and abundance of good cheese.
Besides the dwelling house before mentioned, there were several log
houses on different parts of this farm, inhabited by the people who were
engaged in clearing the land. All these appeared delighted with the
situation; nor were such of them as had come a short time before from
England at all displeased with the climate; they informed me, that they
had enjoyed perfect health from the moment of their landing, and found
no inconvenience from the intense cold of the winter season, which
appears such an insuperable objection to many against settling in
Canada.
[Sidenote: REFLECTIONS.]
This settlement, together with the township it is situated upon, are the
property of a clergyman formerly resident at Quebec. The township is ten
miles square, commencing where the most remote of the old seigniories
end, that is, within eighteen miles of the city of Quebec; but though
within this short distance of a large city, it was almost totally
unknown until about five or six years ago, when the present proprietor,
with a party of Indians and a few friends, set out himself to examine
the quality of the lands. They proved to be rich; the timber was
luxuriant; the face of the country agreeably diversified with hill and
dale, interspersed with beautiful lakes, and interspersed by rivers and
mill streams in every direction. Situated also within six miles of old
settlements, through which there were established roads, being
convenient to a market at the capital of Canada, and within the reach of
society at least as agreeable, if not more so, than is to be found in
all America, nothing seemed wanting to render it an eligible spot for a
new settlement; accordingly the proprietor made application to
government; the land was surveyed, the township marked out, and it was
allotted to him merely, however, by a certificate of occupation.
Several other gentlemen, charmed with the excellent quality and
beautiful disposition of the lands in this part of the country, have
taken up adjoining townships; but at none of them have any settlements
been made, nor is it probable that any will be, until the proprietaries
get better titles: indeed, it has excited the surprise of a numerous set
of people in the province, to see even the little settlement I have
spoken of established on land held under such a tenure.
[Sidenote: REFLECTIONS.]
That unexceptionable titles may be speedily made out to these lands is
sincerely to be hoped; for may we not, whenever that measure shall take
place, expect to see these beautiful provinces, that have so long
remained almost unknown, rising into general notice? May we not then
expect to behold them increasing rapidly in population, and making hasty
strides towards the attainment of that degree of prosperity and
consequence, which their soil, climate, and many other natural
advantages have so eminently qualified them for enjoying? And surely the
empire at large would be greatly benefitted by such a change in the
state of Canada; for as the country increased in population, it would
increase in riches, and there would then be a proportionably greater
demand for English manufactures; a still greater trade would also be
carried on then between Canada and the West Indies than at present, to
the great advantage of both countries[40]; a circumstance that would
give employment to a greater number of British ships: as Canada also
increased in wealth, it would be enabled to defray the expences of its
own government, which at present falls so heavily upon the people of
Great Britain: neither is there reason to imagine that Canada, if
allowed to attain such a state of prosperity, would be ready to disunite
herself from Great Britain, supposing that Great Britain should remain
as powerful as at present, and that Canada continued to be governed with
mildness and wisdom; for she need but turn towards the United States to
be convinced that the great mass of her people were in the possession of
as much happiness and liberty as those of the neighbouring country; and
that whatever she might lose by exposing herself to the horrors of a
sanguinary war, she could gain no essential or immediate advantages
whatsoever, by asserting her own independence.
Footnote 40:
All those articles of American produce in demand in the West Indies
may be had on much better terms in Canada than in the United States;
and if the Canadian merchants had sufficient capitals to enable them
to trade thither largely, there can hardly be a doubt but that the
people of the British West Indian isles would draw their supplies from
Canada rather than from any other part of America. The few cargoes at
present sent from Quebec always command a preference in the West
Indian markets over those sent from any part of the United States.
END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
● Transcriber’s Notes:
○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.
○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only
when a predominant form was found in this book.
○ Text that:
was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_);
was in bold by is enclosed by “equal” signs (=bold=)
had extra character spacing by “plus” signs (+stretched+).
○ The use of a caret (^) before a letter, or letters, shows that the
following letter or letters was intended to be a superscript, as
in S^t Bartholomew or 10^{th} Century.