Installation of Shah Soojah.--Attack on the camel guards.--Heroism of an
Affghan Youth.--Murder of Cornet Inverarity of the 16th
Lancers.--Departure from Candahar.--The Ghiljie
Hills.--Locusts.--Arrival of new Auxiliaries.--Camel Batteries.--Hyder
Khail.--Arrival at Ghuznee.--Tomb of Mahommed.--Remains of the Old Town
of Ghuznee.
In order to give a sort of political eclat to the steps taken to
reinstate Shah Soojah on the throne of his ancestors, it was resolved
that he should be solemnly inaugurated at Candahar, and nothing was
omitted that could possibly tend to render the ceremony imposing. On
the morning fixed for its celebration, the whole of the British forces
were paraded in review order on a large plain to the north of the city,
whilst the Shah's troops were drawn up at a little distance. In the
centre of the field stood a platform canopied with crimson silk, and
ornamented with numerous banners and devices, the seat reserved for the
Shah being ascended by a broad flight of tapestried steps, and covered
with cushions of crimson and gold. The other accessories of the pageant
were got up in similar costly style, but the effect, on the whole,
conveyed to the mind rather the unsatisfied feeling which attends the
hollow show and glitter of the theatre, than the idea of substantial
power. The weather was beautiful, the sun shedding its gorgeous rays
full upon us, and finding innumerable reflections in the military
panoply beneath. The heat was however excessive, and the majority of us
would have willingly exchanged our places in the ceremonial for the
shade and repose of our tents.
As early as six o'clock the Commander-in-Chief took up his position in
front of the line, and was received with a general salute. The Shah was
soon after observed leaving the gates of the city on an elephant, the
howdah of which was of solid silver. His Majesty appeared to me to be
between fifty and sixty years of age; of middle stature, and somewhat
inclined to corpulency. His features were large, but regular, and the
expression which played about them was not calculated to leave a
favourable impression on the physiognomist. It had a mingled character
of vaccillation and cruelty about it, which impressed one with the
notion that the possessor could sink with ease from the extreme of
tyrannical self-will to the abject and fawning humility of the slave.
His Majesty was accompanied by his Vizier, a tall, spare looking man of
a thoughtful and rather melancholy cast of features, and somewhat older
than his master. Immediately behind the Shah rode Sir William
McNaghten, in full court dress, such as is usually worn by officials at
her Majesty's levees in England, and he was followed by Sir Alexander
Burnes, in a plain suit, and surrounded by the Affghan chiefs, with whom
he appeared to be in close and friendly converse. The winning smile and
frank and courteous manner of the latter gentleman appeared to have
gained for him a degree of consideration amongst the natives, which no
other European could boast of, and which was principally attributable to
the talismanic influence of qualities that have a never failing effect
in softening down and subduing even the most rugged and intractable
natures. Nothing could exceed the splendour of the costumes in which
these chiefs were clad, their turbans and weapons being studded with
diamonds and other precious stones; whilst the horses on which they were
mounted were perfect models of animal beauty.
As soon as the Shah arrived on the ground the bands of the different
regiments struck up "God save the King," and his Majesty was conducted
to his throne by the Politicals. The troops then marched past the
platform in slow and quick time each regiment lowering its colors as it
arrived before it. A proclamation was afterwards read, declaring and
confirming the Shah's title to the throne, and all persons subject to
his authority having been required to yield him fealty, the Affghan
Chiefs present tendered their homage. The troops were marched back to
their lines immediately after, and a Durbar concluded the ceremonies of
the day.
It must not be imagined that during all this time our ever watchful
enemies had abated their vigilance or lost any opportunity of annoying
us. They did not dare to attack the camp, itself, precautionary measures
having been adopted to prevent their near approach, by stationing
inlying and outlying pickets round it. We were compelled, however, to
send our camels to graze at some distance from the encampment, and the
soldiers in charge of them were frequently surprised and driven in. On
one occasion a party of the 13th Light Infantry, consisting of a
serjeant and six privates, who had been entrusted with the care of from
fifteen to eighteen camels, fell asleep on their posts, being overcome
by the excessive heat, and the Affghans, stealing upon them whilst in
this state, put one man to death, and severely wounded two others, the
whole of the camels of course falling into their hands. The serjeant
escaped but was broken for neglect of duty.
Shortly after this occurrence, two of the marauders fell into our hands.
In order to put an end to, or diminish these vexatious losses it was
determined to make a terrible example of the prisoners, in the hope that
it would have some effect upon their companions. They were accordingly
tried by a court martial, composed of native officers, and sentenced to
be blown from the mouth of a gun. Having been led into the market-place
at Candahar, they were ordered to draw lots as to who should first
undergo this dreadful doom. The younger of the prisoners, a stripling of
about nineteen years of age, whose firm and gallant bearing excited
universal sympathy and admiration, responded to this command by at once
embracing the mouth of the gun from which he was instantly blown to
atoms. His companion, a grey-headed man, upwards of sixty years of age,
sat looking on, unmoved at this terrible scene, and coolly smoking his
hookah. On being ordered to take his place at the gun he did not exhibit
the least appearance of fear, and just as the match was about being
applied, the officer in command arrested it and directed the prisoner to
be taken away, the Shah influenced, it is said, by the entreaties of Sir
Alexander Burnes, having granted his pardon. This unexpected release
from the very jaws of death produced as little emotion on the part of
this stout old man, as its near approach or the fate of his youthful
companion had elicited.
The mysterious and premature death of Cornet Inverarity, of the 16th
Lancers, formed, whilst here, the universal topic of discussion in the
military circles. The circumstances, as far as I could collect them,
were these:--A pic-nic party had been given by the officers of the
regiment at a pleasant rural retreat, within a few miles of Candahar,
and the Cornet, being fond of fishing, took his rod and strayed a short
distance from his companions in search of sport. His prolonged absence
having given rise to remark, some of the party went in search of him,
and found the unfortunate gentleman lying dead on the banks of a
neighbouring stream. The wounds he had received were of such a nature as
to preclude the idea that they were self-inflicted, and there can be but
little doubt that he was murdered by the Affghans. The deceased was an
officer of considerable acquirements, and was regretted by all who had
the honour of his acquaintance. He was only in his 26th year, and had
been about five in the service.
I gladly avail myself of the opportunity which presents itself of paying
a tribute to the good conduct and friendly feeling of the native troops,
who testified on all occasions the utmost willingness, and indeed the
most anxious desire to render all the aid and service in their power to
their European comrades. Their knowledge of the language of the country,
and their acquaintance with the value of its produce, proved of no small
advantage to us in our daily traffic with the cunning and thievish
traders of the bazaar. Let me add that the general feeling amongst us
was that, in privation or danger, we might always count with certainty
on the generosity and bravery of the Sepoy.
Having passed nearly seven weeks at Candahar, it was determined that we
should next proceed to Ghuznee, where it was reported that Dost
Mahommed and his followers had resolved on making a stand. The army
quitted the encampment on the 27th of June, preceded by a squadron of
European cavalry, two squadrons of the native troops, and two field
pieces loaded with canister and grape shot. The route from Candahar to
Ghuznee lies through a wild and mountainous country, and over roads
extremely difficult, and at times almost impassable. The Ghiljies fled
on our approach to the numerous mud forts with which these hills abound,
and seldom ventured on our track. In the dwellings they had abandoned we
found only a few old crones and hungry dogs, both of whom received us
with a sort of howling welcome. The Ghiljie huts are constructed
somewhat like a bee hive, being of circular and conical form, with
interior accommodations of the most wretched description. The few males
whom we caught a glimpse of were clad in the same substitute for broad
cloth that served the famous Bryan O'Lynn, who having--
"No breeches to wear,
Cut up a sheepskin to make him a pair."
We were lucky enough to discover the stores of corn and _bussorah_ (a
sort of provender for cattle) which the natives had buried at the first
news of our approach. We were also well supplied with water the country
being traversed in all directions by rivers and streams. To
counterbalance these advantages we were annoyed with shoals of locusts,
which literally darkened the atmosphere and kept up a perpetual buzzing
and humming in our ears. The locust appears to be a favorite article of
food with the natives, who roast it on a slow fire and devour it with
eagerness. We could not bring ourselves to relish this equivocal dainty,
although our rations were not of the best or most varied description.
As we advanced on Khelat-i-Ghiljie scarcely a day passed without some
Chief coming into camp from Cabul, with a retinue of from one to two
hundred men, in order to tender his allegiance to the Shah. They were
immediately sent to the rear and incorporated with his Majesty's levies.
Many of these new auxiliaries brought camel batteries, which created a
good deal of curiosity and amusement amongst the European troops, to
whom they were a novelty. Each camel carried a sort of rampart on his
back, which mounted from four to six swivel guns of small calibre, the
conductor both driving the animal and serving the guns. We were
surprised at the rapidity and accuracy with which these portable
batteries were served and brought to bear, the animal dropping on its
knees wherever it became necessary to bring the guns within range, and
rising the moment they were discharged.
At Hyder Khail we were plundered of several camels laden with bedding,
belonging to her Majesty's 2nd, or Queen's Royals, and the party in
charge of them disappeared and was not again heard of before we left. As
we passed Khelat-i-Ghiljie the country began to improve in its
character, and large tracts, covered with corn and beans, betokened the
presence of a more civilized tribe than that through whose inhospitable
territories we had just passed. The villagers came daily into camp with
fruit and vegetables, which they parted with at reasonable prices, and
their conduct to us on the whole was civil and peaceable.
On the 21st. of July we arrived in sight of Ghuznee, the strength of
which we found underrated rather than exaggerated. Ghuznee may be said
to form the key to Cabul since it commands the only direct route to that
place. The citadel is of great extent, and includes within its precincts
three or four bazaars and several streets. It is surrounded on every
side by strong bastions and substantial walls, the whole of which had
been recently put in repair, and it mounted nine guns (one a 48
pounder) besides innumerable wall pieces, gingals, and matchlocks. The
principal entrance is at the North side, on the road to Cabul, and is
approached by a bridge of slight construction, thrown across a deep
ditch or moat. To the right and left stretch long chains of lofty hills,
which approach the walls so closely on the North side, as to command a
view of the interior of the citadel. The enemy, sensible of the
importance of these heights, had lined them with troops in order to
prevent our planting batteries on them. At the distance of about three
quarters of a mile from the fort, and situated in an amphitheatre of
hills, lies the town of Ghuznee, which consists of only a few narrow,
straggling streets. A narrow, but deep and rapid river, whose banks are
studded with rich corn fields, winds its devious route through the
pleasant valley in which the town is situate, and half encircles its
walls. Nearly equidistant from the town and the fort, and surrounded by
luxuriant orchards and vineyards, stands the famous tomb of Mahommed of
Ghuznee. It consists of an oblong building 36 ft. by 18, and about 30
feet in height, and is crowned by a mud cupola. The gates are said to be
of sandal-wood, and were taken from the temple of Somnath by the
conqueror, whose remains lie entombed here. The grave stone in the
interior is made of the finest white marble, but its once rich sculpture
is now nearly defaced, and it presents but few traces of the Arabic
characters with which it was formerly inscribed. Over the last resting
place of the hero, and in a sadly decayed state, are suspended the
banner of green silk, and the enormous mace which he had so often borne
in battle.
In the plain to the south of the hills stand two pillars, or obelisks,
of brickwork, about one hundred feet in height, and twelve in diameter
at the base, which are said to have marked the limits of the bazaar of
ancient Ghuznee, and which at present form serve only as conspicuous
landmarks for the traveller.