The Khojuck Pass.--Descent of the Troops.--Shocking Death of a Camel
Driver.--Detection and Escape of an Affghan Thief.--Loss of Cavalry
Horses.--Candahar.--Arrival of Shah Soojah.--Condition of
the Troops.--Attempt of the Natives to cut off a Convoy of
Provisions.--Asiatic Mendicants.--The Mosque at Candahar.--Arrival of
Affghan Auxiliaries.
We reached the Khojuck Pass in the expectation of finding it occupied by
the forces of Dost Mahommed, but contrary to general anticipation it was
abandoned. We learned that the Dost had visited the place a few days
before, in company with several of his chiefs, when the prudence of
disputing our passage was discussed. Owing to some violent differences
of opinion amongst the subordinate chiefs, the idea was abandoned, and
the enemy fell back towards Candahar. How different might have been the
fate of the expedition but for this impolitic and cowardly step. To
enable the reader to judge of its importance a brief description of the
Pass will be necessary.
Ascending an eminence of no great height a platform of rock is gained,
from which a glorious view bursts upon the sight. Immediately beneath is
a steep declivity, along whose rugged sides winds the narrow road, while
a chasm of immense depth yawns beneath, and threatens to engulph the
luckless passenger should he chance to slip as he treads his way down
the difficult and dangerous descent. Receding into the far distance lie
long ranges of blue mountains broken at intervals into open plains and
valleys, whose calm and smiling aspect contrasts well with the frowning
majesty of the neighbouring heights.
Nothing could be finer than the view which presented itself as our
troops wound round the brow of this tremendous precipice, their arms
glittering in the sun, and their uniforms imparting a gay and dazzling
variety to the sober hues of the stunted herbage with which its sides
were clad. The Infantry, consisting of several companies of the Queen's
Royals and a party of the 17th regiment were ordered to line the heights
in order to protect the descent of the Artillery and Cavalry, together
with the heavy baggage. So steep was the road (if road it could be
called) that the Cavalry were obliged to dismount and lead their horses,
bridle in hand, and the Artillery to unlimber their guns and drag them
down the precipice, a task, as the reader may conceive, of no small
labour and difficulty. About half way down, a camel, laden with camp
equipage, missed its footing and was precipitated into the abyss with
its conductor, and both were of course, immediately dashed to pieces.
We reached the plain without any further mishap about six o'clock the
same evening, and had every reason to congratulate ourselves that the
cowardice or negligence of the enemy had prevented them from disputing
our passage.
Having halted at the bottom of the Pass two days so as to enable the
remainder of the heavy ordnance and baggage to descend we proceeded
towards Candahar. The enemy occasionally made their appearance, and
though not caring to face us in the field, continued to harass us
severely by hanging on our rear, and cutting off the stragglers. Nor did
they abate in the least in their love of thieving, robberies being just
as frequent, and characterised by as much ingenuity and daring as ever.
Late one night I was on sentry before the tent of Lieutenant Kemp when a
rustling noise attracted my notice; on looking attentively towards the
spot from whence it proceeded, I perceived an Affghan crawling towards
the tent on his hands and knees, and suffering him to enter, in order
the more easily to secure him, I surprised him as he was in the act of
plundering it. The fellow was completely naked, and on my attempting to
lay hold of him he slipped through my fingers like an eel, owing to the
quantity of grease with which his person was smeared, and succeeded in
clearing the lines in safety. I did not shoot him because positive
orders had been issued against shots being fired in camp, which had
before given rise to many groundless alarms.
The weather now became excessively hot, the thermometer being 125
degrees in the shade, which rendered it necessary that we should
prosecute our way either in the cool of the morning or at night. The
nights were so beautiful that the latter could not be deemed a hardship,
and had the scenery been but equal to that through which we had just
passed, it could not have been seen to greater advantage than under
these clear delicious moonlights. Nothing, however, can be more flat or
uninteresting than the country between the Khojuck Pass and Candahar.
The only thing that might be said to have broken the monotony of the
route was an occasional shot which told the fate of some poor horse,
who, having been broken down by fatigue and privation, and rendered
incapable of further exertion, was mercifully put out of pain by its
rider. There were nearly fifty head of cattle disposed of in this way
between the Pass and Candahar, a pretty item in the expenses of the
campaign, when it is borne in mind that each of them had cost from fifty
to sixty pounds in India. Had we come in contact with the enemy at
Candahar as we expected, I have no doubt the Cavalry would have been
found wholly ineffective from the jaded and worn-out condition of their
horses.
We arrived at Candahar on the 4th. of May, and effected a junction with
the remainder of the Bengal forces under Sir Willoughby Cotton. Here we
were also joined by Shah Soojah in company with Sir William McNaghten
and Sir Alexander Burnes. The dethroned monarch immediately took
possession of his ancestral palace, which had just been evacuated by the
enemy. The reverses of fortune to which these Asiatic sovereigns are
subject have so steeled them against adversity, that I doubt if his
Majesty was agitated, even by a passing emotion, at this important
event. If he felt at all, it was perhaps more a sensation of fear than
joy, for he could not conceal from himself the fact, that the opinions
of his subjects were arraigned to a man against him, and that under such
circumstances his tenure of sovereignty would in all probability be
terminated by a bloody death.
Tired as we were of the harassing mountain warfare in which we had been
engaged, and anxious to strike a blow which would decide the fate of the
Campaign, we were yet agreeably disappointed at the evacuation of
Candahar by the enemy. We were greatly in need of rest after the long
and fatiguing marches, which we had made; and the deplorable condition
in which we found ourselves, as regarded supplies, rendered it highly
impolitic to bring us just then in face of the enemy. Sickness had
increased alarmingly amongst us, but in this respect we did not find our
position improved, for the excessive heat which prevailed during our
stay here carried off great numbers of the men.
Although the bazaar was plentifully supplied with meat and fruit, flour
was difficult to be obtained, the stock on hand having been eagerly
bought up by the troops on their arrival. The traders turned the
scarcity of this necessary article to profitable account, for they only
gave 2lb. to the rupee instead of 40lb., the usual proportion. We had
been living on half rations, and these not of the best quality, for
nearly a month previous, and had looked forward to our arrival at
Candahar for some addition to the quantity, but so far was this from
being the case, that it was found necessary to put the camp followers on
the same allowance, and it was not until three weeks after our arrival
that an increase and that not the full one, was served out to us.
We were in daily expectation of the arrival of a convoy of six hundred
camels laden with provisions and grain, but intelligence having been
brought us that the Affghans lay in way to intercept it, it was thought
advisable to send out a force consisting of two squadrons of native
cavalry, a party of her Majesty's 13th Light Infantry and two field
pieces for its protection. The enemy being informed by their spies of
this movement, fell back to the hills, and the supplies were brought in
safety to the camp. The native contractor who furnished them, was
offered a bribe of 10,000 rupees by Dost Mahommed to direct his camels
another way, but much to his credit refused it.
Candahar is a place of considerable importance in a commercial point of
view, but its military advantages are scarcely deserving of notice. It
is surrounded by an old wall and ditch, some efforts to strengthen which
had been made by throwing up a few parapets, but they were abandoned at
the first news of our approach. The principal entrance faces the south
and leads directly into the bazaar, which presents rather an animated
scene to the eyes of the stranger, in consequence of the varied and
picturesque costumes of the multitudes who resort to it, and who are
composed of Asiatics of almost every race. The merchandize exposed for
sale is no less heterogeneous in its character than its vendors, and
much to our surprise and gratification it included good broad-cloths and
Whitechapel needles, articles which, in the dilapidated and transparent
state of our clothing, proved of no small service to us.
Common and disgusting as mendicancy has become through all parts of
Asia, I have never seen it carried to such an annoying extent as here.
Our ears were assailed on all sides by whining petitions, and our eyes
offended by the exhibition of festering sores or simulated deformities.
The ingenuity displayed in twisting a straight and well made limb into
some hideous distortion, or in painting up an ugly case of cancer, would
have excited the admiration and envy of the importunate cripples who
beset the chapels of Catholic countries.
At the further extremity of the bazaar stands a noble mosque, in which
are interred the remains of Shah Soojah's father and grandfather. A
lofty gilt dome and graceful minarets distinguish it above the other
buildings of the town, and the effect, as it is approached from the
distance, is extremely imposing. On entering this beautiful temple the
visitor is conducted up a flight of marble steps to a platform within
the dome, where the remains of the deceased princes lie. The tombs are
covered with palls of blue velvet, fringed with gold, and illuminated by
about two hundred lamps, which are kept burning night and day, while
forty Faquirs, or priests, watch perpetually over them. Two magnificent
folio editions of the Koran, bound in velvet and ornamented with
characters of gold, were also shown to us with a degree of reverence
that proved the estimation in which they were held. A few pigeons which
were flying round the interior of the building appeared to divide with
these costly exemplars of the Book of Life the regard and veneration of
the votaries of the temple, this bird being held sacred, and any
invasion of its privileges visited by the punishment of death.
Several of the Affghan Chiefs who were known to be devoted to the
interests of Dost Mahommed becoming alarmed at the turn affairs were
taking, or, as some said, being dissatisfied with that prince for
refusing to guarantee the safety of their women, now came into camp and
tendered their allegiance to Shah Soojah. These reluctant auxiliaries
were warmly received by the Politicals, who hailed their adhesion as an
omen of the success of the expedition; and I observed Sir Alexander
Burnes carry his joy so far as cordially to embrace one of them. The
Chief smiled grimly, but said but little. I had an opportunity however
of ascertaining his real feelings, on getting amongst his followers a
few days afterwards. They openly expressed their regret at being
compelled to join the invaders of their country, and stated, that they
could not have a braver leader, or a better prince, than Dost Mahommed.
They described him as being of a just and generous nature, whilst they
represented the Shah as being cruel and unprincipled.
These Affghan horsemen were a fine athletic set of men, and capitally
mounted, their breed of cattle being much superior to ours, and
exhibiting proofs of the most careful grooming. The riders wore coats of
mail with steel gauntlets, and their arms consisted of a sabre, heavier
and longer than ours, a dagger, and in some instances shields and
matchlocks. I have no hesitation in saying that the Affghan Cavalry, if
these were a fair sample of them, are a most effective body of men. They
may not be equal to ours in the field, but for a harassing system of
mountain warfare where they are required to make sudden descents upon
Infantry, hemmed in between defiles, and embarrassed by ignorance of the
country, no body of troops can be better adapted. Their horses are light
limbed, but strong and wiry, and capable of undergoing incredible
fatigue while the trooper himself, practised from infancy in the
management of the animal, can ride him over places where no European
horseman would venture. Had these wild mountaineers but the advantages
of discipline and proper organization their country would be
inaccessible to any troops in the world.