CHAPTER XLIII

FORT McKAY AND JIAROBIA

Fort McKay was the last point at which we saw the Chipewyan style

of teepee, and the first where the Cree appeared. But its chief

interest to us lay in the fact that it was the home of Jiarobia, a

capable river-man who wished to go to Athabaska Landing. The first

thing that struck us about Jiarobia--whose dictionary name by the

way is Elzear Robillard--was that his house had a good roof and

a large pile of wood ready cut. These were extremely important

indications in a land of improvidence. Robillard was a thin, active,

half-breed of very dark skin. He was willing to go for $2.00 a day

the round-trip (18 days) plus food and a boat to return with. But

a difficulty now appeared; Madame Robillard, a tall, dark half-breed

woman, objected: "Elzear had been away all summer, he should stay

home now." "If you go I will run off into the backwoods with the

first wild Indian that wants a squaw," she threatened. "Now," said

Rob, in choice English, "I am up against it." She did not understand

English, but she could read looks and had some French, so I took

a hand.

"If Madame will consent I will advance $15.00 of her husband's pay

and will let her select the finest silk handkerchief in the Hudson's

Bay store for a present."

In about three minutes her Cree eloquence died a natural death;

she put a shawl on her head and stepped toward the door without

looking at me. Rob, nodded to me, and signed to go to the Hudson's

Bay store; by which I inferred that the case was won; we were going

now to select the present. To my amazement she turned from all the

bright-coloured goods and selected a large black silk handkerchief.

The men tell me it is always so now; fifty years ago every woman

wanted red things. Now all want black; and the traders who made

the mistake of importing red have had to import dyes and dip them

all.

Jiarobia, or, as we mostly call him, "Rob," proved most amusing

character as well as a "good man" and the reader will please note

that nearly all of my single help were "good men." Only when I had

a crowd was there trouble. His store of anecdote was unbounded and

his sense of humour ever present, if broad and simple. He talked

in English, French, and Cree, and knew a good deal of Chipewyan.

Many of his personal adventures would have fitted admirably into

the Decameron, but are scarcely suited for this narrative. One

evening he began to sing, I listened intently, thinking maybe I

should pick up some ancient chanson of the voyageurs or at least

a woodman's "Come-all-ye." Alas! it proved to be nothing but the

"Whistling Coon."

Which reminds me of another curious experience at the village of

Fort Smith. I saw a crowd of the Indians about a lodge and strange

noises proceeding therefrom. When I went over the folk made way for

me. I entered, sat down, and found that they were crowded around

a cheap gramophone which was hawking, spitting and screeching some

awful rag-time music and nigger jigs. I could forgive the traders

for bringing in the gramophone, but why, oh, why, did they not

bring some of the simple world-wide human songs which could at least

have had an educational effect? The Indian group listened to this

weird instrument with the profoundest gravity. If there is anything

inherently comic in our low comics it was entirely lost on them.

One of Rob's amusing fireside tricks was thus: He put his hands

together, so: (illustration). "Now de' tumbs is you and your fader,

de first finger is you and your mudder, ze next is you and your

sister, ze little finger is you and your brudder, ze ring finger

is you and your sweetheart. You and your fader separate easy, like

dat; you and your brudder like dat, you and your sister like dat,

dat's easy; you and your mudder like dat, dat's not so easy; but

you and your sweetheart cannot part widout all everything go to

hell first."

Later, as we passed the American who lives at Fort McMurray, Jiarobia

said to me: "Dat man is the biggest awful liar on de river. You

should hear him talk. 'One day,' he said, 'dere was a big stone

floating up de muddy river and on it was tree men, and one was

blind and one was plumb naked and one had no arms nor legs, and de

blind man he looks down on bottom of river an see a gold watch, an

de cripple he reach out and get it, and de naked man he put it in

his pocket.' Now any man talk dat way he one most awful liar, it

is not possible, any part, no how."

The Arctic Prairies : a Canoe-Journey of 2,000 Miles in Search of the Caribou; Being the Account of a Voyage to the Region North of Aylemer Lake · 第 33 / 38 章