1867.
GIURGEVO--RUSTSCHUK--SISTOVA--NICOPOLIS--BUDA-PESTH--RETURN TO
ENGLAND--ADDRESSES OF THANKS FROM BUCHAREST--LOCAL HONOURS AT RAMSGATE.
It had been Sir Moses' intention, when setting out on his Mission, to
proceed direct to Jassy, but he was advised to go to Bucharest first,
and to place the petition in the hands of Prince Charles. Having now
accomplished this, and received from His Highness the assurance that
justice should be done, and help rendered to those who stood so much
in need of it, he prepared to go to Jassy and other places, in order
to make known to the Governors, Judges, and high functionaries, the
promises made by the Prince, and the gracious sentiments expressed by
him towards the Jews, but the excited state of the country precluded
the realisation of that wish.
On the day after the uproar in front of the Hotel Otetteliano, being in
a state of great anxiety, I went, without the knowledge of Sir Moses,
to Mr Green, showing him the threatening letters I had received, and
describing to him minutely all that had happened. Whilst expressing
deep regret and sympathy, he did not hold out any prospect of seeing
the excitement of the populace abate as soon as he would have wished,
nor could he suggest any means by which at that moment the cause of the
agitation might be removed.
As for Sir Moses going to Jassy, he said that was quite out of the
question. Were he to insist on doing so, he (Mr Green), as the English
Consul General, might perhaps accompany him himself, and Prince Charles
and his government would undoubtedly do all in their power to protect
him. Nevertheless, he thought there was no guarantee for his personal
safety nor for that of his co-religionists.
Mr Green, after my interview with him, expressed to Sir Moses
personally the same views on the subject, and the latter, not because
he apprehended any danger to his own life, but to avoid giving cause
for any dangerous outbreak against those whom he came to help, was
reluctantly compelled to relinquish the idea of proceeding to Jassy.
The same evening Sir Moses had the honour of receiving His Highness'
portrait, accompanied by a flattering letter. This mark of gracious
attention on the part of the Prince greatly pleased Sir Moses.
The portrait may be seen now in the Lecture Hall of Judith, Lady
Montefiore's Theological College, most suitably placed above a tableau
representing a number of His Highness Roumanian subjects,--pupils
assembled at a public school at Botuschau, Roumania, celebrating the
one hundredth anniversary of Sir Moses' birthday.
We left Bucharest for Giurgevo in the evening, escorted by cavalry
as a guard of honour. We had had similar protection at Bucharest,
ever since the gathering of the populace took place, and soldiers and
commissioners of police were posted in the hotel, some of them even
near the apartments of Sir Moses. One of the soldiers was pointed
out to us as being an Israelite, and a fine handsome fellow he was.
The presence of these men did not prevent certain suspicious looking
persons from entering the apartments of Sir Moses, unexpectedly, at
very inconvenient moments. How that happened could not be explained.
We arrived at Giurgevo by eleven o'clock A.M. A large number of
deputations were announced to Sir Moses, and he began to receive them,
but the day was oppressively hot, and accompanied by a sandstorm, which
made itself unpleasantly felt even in the room, so that Sir Moses was
obliged to desist and take some rest. The next day he visited the
German and Portuguese Synagogues, also several Jewish and Christian
schools, leaving souvenirs for the pupils and teachers, and gifts for
the charitable institutions. Two commissioners of police and a guard
of honour remained with us night and day until our departure on the
24th September, when we went on board the _Danube_ steamer, on our
return to England. We cast anchor at Rustschuk, and remained there over
night, Sir Moses having in this place also to receive many deputations,
who brought information respecting their schools and charitable
institutions.
_Friday, September 6th._--We continued our journey to Thurn Severin,
thence we steered our course to Sistova and Nicopolis. The situation
of the town is very picturesque, Nicopolis resting partly on the brow
of a range of cliffs and partly in the bed of a narrow valley. Sir
Moses intended remaining there to rest on the Sabbath, but as it was
still early in the day, he continued on board till we reached Drenkova,
where, as soon as the boat stopped, he went on shore.
Sir Moses, as the reader will remember from what I stated on this
subject before, was a great admirer of the beauties of nature. On his
setting out on this journey from Pesth, he expressed great delight
with the scenery at several places on the Danube, and he considered it
a great compensation for the trouble, fatigue, and anxiety he had to
endure in the course of the present Mission to be enabled to enjoy so
grand a sight. As we went further up the stream, the scenery became
still more beautiful. Near a place called "Palanka," the Hungarian
Mountains in the Upper Banat almost touch the Servian Chain on the
opposite bank, causing the bed of the river to contract to such an
extent as to turn the latter into a torrent, which increases in
impetuosity till the boat nears the famous rock of Baby Kaly. At this
spot the roaring of the waters, the upheaved rocks, the flights of
eagles ever hovering in the air in all directions, strike the ordinary
traveller with awe. Sir Moses was the first to express his fervent
devotion to the Creator of the Universe, and his rapturous delight at
the sight presented by the wild grandeur of the country. "Emblems on
earth," he calls them, "of rigorous justice, blended with calm mercy in
the realms of heaven."
When our boat passed through the whirlpools, not far from the famous
cavern "Piscabara," we were exposed to great danger. The bed of the
Danube is here formed of numerous masses of perpendicular rocks,
between which it is necessary to steer with the utmost caution. There
was only one narrow channel through which vessels could pass, and
then only one at the time, and had ours been met by another coming in
an opposite direction, they would both have been carried away by the
violence of the stream, and dashed to pieces by the water rebounding
from rock to rock.
Every one on board anxiously watched the soundings of the pilot in
silence. Whilst Sir Moses was looking down the narrow channel as the
vessel glided along, the Captain accosted him with the words, "There is
not more than a foot and a half of water now in the channel," to which
Sir Moses calmly, in the words of Isaiah, replied, "It is the Eternal
God, who maketh a way in the sea and a path in the mighty waters. When
thou passest through the waters, I will be with thee, said the Lord,
and through the rivers, they shall not overflow thee." He added, "I
admire the mighty works of the Creator, but no fear of danger enters my
heart."
His attention was called to the remains of the road cut by Trajan on
the Servian side of the river, along the side of the rock, and to a
tablet commemorating the conquest of Dacia by the Roman Emperor. It is
in the form of a tablet, held by two genii, on each side of which is a
dolphin, while in the centre is the Roman eagle. The words
"Imp. Caes. D. Nervae, filius Nerva Trajanus.
Germ. Pont.--imus,"
may still be seen.
On reaching New Orsova, we saw the ruins of the bridge built by the
same Emperor, after his victory over the Dacian King Decebatus. The
remains of the arches are still visible at low water, and the towers
on each side of the river apparently still in the same position. The
bridge, we were informed, consisted of twenty-two stone piles, with
wooden arches, the river being shallow, the current gentle, and the
whole width not more than 443 feet. Thereupon Sir Moses observed:
"I have seen the spot where the ancient city of Tyre lies under
water, the tops of its public buildings one might almost imagine to
be still visible. I also visited the land where the gigantic palaces,
the figures of the mighty Pharaohs, and the houses of assembly for
idolatrous worship are in utter ruins. All that is false," he says.
"All institutions intended for keeping the people in darkness, shutting
out from them the light of God, encouraging and upholding the practice
of injustice, teaching oppression of the poor, innocent, and helpless,
have been ordained by Him, who is the Father of us all, to disappear
entirely from the surface of the earth. I look upon the Roman remains
in this locality as only one of a thousand other striking evidences of
the fulfilment of the Word of God vouchsafed unto us by his prophets."
All on board flocked around him, listening in reverential silence
to the words he spoke in his pleasing and impressive tone; and,
overtopping them all by his lofty figure, he had the appearance, as
he stood among them, of an ancient patriarch addressing his loving
children.
The "Iron Gate," or "Demirkapi," as the spot is called by the Turks,
was another object to which his attention was directed, and called
forth his admiration; but it is too well known to need any further
description here.
The place selected by Sir Moses for resting on the Sabbath was
charming. The view presented by the river and the adjacent rocks was
grand and imposing, and delighted him all day long. He now felt greatly
relieved from the fatigue and anxiety which, during the last few weeks,
had so enfeebled his health.
In the evening, about nine o'clock (September 7th), we went on board
the _Szechenyi_ steamboat, and arrived the following Monday at Pesth
and Buda. On Tuesday we left Pesth for Vienna, where we arrived
the same day. Sir Moses called on Lord Bloomfield, on the Russian
Ambassador, on the Austrian Minister of Foreign Affairs, Herr von
Beust, and again received deputations from various communities. On
Thursday he bade farewell to his friends, and proceeded _via_ Salzburg,
Munich, Strassburg, and Paris to Dover and Ramsgate, where he arrived
on Friday, the 20th, and went at once to Synagogue to render thanks to
heaven for his safe return.
Among the numerous letters which awaited him at East Cliff was one
from the representatives of the Portuguese and German congregations
at Bucharest, in which the following passages, translated from the
original Hebrew, show the gratitude of his brethren, and the high
appreciation of his presence among them in a time of great trouble.
"In all generations," they say, "thorns and thistles have grown up in
the vineyard of the Lord, but the Almighty delivered us from them;
also, in our generation, and in our land, our enemies have embittered
our lives and resolved upon the extermination of our remnant, fear
and dread surrounded us, our lives were in constant peril; this was
our portion and our lot.
"In our affliction we have called on our brethren to have compassion
on us, but none of them took it to heart, until it came to your ears,
Father of Israel. As your prototype Moses, son of Amrám, you stood
by us in the time of our troubles, and for the benefit of all our
brethren you pleaded our cause before princes, and, as rain from
Heaven causes the plants to grow, so your words entered the hearts of
princes and caused beautiful fruits of salvation to flourish.
"Be our lot whatever it may, we rejoice in the consoling hope that
Israel has not been forsaken. We have our shield amongst us, and
we may rest in safety, for 'when Moses held up his hand, Israel
prevailed.'
"It is with the sincerest pleasure that we now come to express our
heartfelt gratitude, and to narrate some of your good deeds, as it is
written, 'Withhold not good from them to whom it is due.'
"When you heard that our enemies rose up against us, you left the
care and comfort of your habitation, the city wherein your heart
delights to dwell. You came to behold our troubles, and we have seen
your face as though we had seen the face of a godly man, for the seed
which you have sown will, with the assistance of God, bring forth
delightful fruit; therefore we say of you as was said of Cæsar, 'He
came, saw, and conquered.'
"We beg likewise to thank you most sincerely for the money which you
left for the helpless and needy, and the support of the hospital. May
the words be applied to you, 'He that giveth unto the poor shall not
lack.' We call aloud, 'Happy London, Sir Moses dwelleth amongst you.'
"We cannot sufficiently express all the good which you have done
for us, but we all give praise and glory to the godly man who, in
his eighty-fourth year, has come to see our encampment in this
wilderness. May the Almighty lengthen your days, and may your
strength be as your days.--Signed by
"J. L. WEINBERG. M. G. POPICZ. LEON B. LÖBEL.
"M. MOSCOWICZ. B. L. WISNER. EM. BUCHNER.
"D. M. COHENISEN. A. E. GASTER.
"_Representatives of the German Congregation._
"JOSEPH HALFON. ELIAS JOS. COHEN. JONA JOSEPH.
"_Representatives of the Portuguese Congregation._"
Monsieur Halfon, the banker, to whom, before leaving Bucharest, Sir
Moses had sent £200 for distribution among Christian and Jewish poor,
also addressed a letter to him, conveying the thanks of the Mayor of
Bucharest, and those of the Hebrew community, for his kind donations.
"Since your departure," Mr Halfon writes, "no representation or
complaint has reached me from any person. I am convinced of its being a
happy prelude of the fruits of your philanthropic voyage."
The sentiments expressed in these letters afforded Sir Moses particular
satisfaction, inasmuch as he was mindful of Monsieur Halfon's former
advice to him not to come to Moldavia at all. Now he hears from the
representatives of both the German and Portuguese communities of that
place, and of the President of the Alliance himself, that his presence
amongst them was not only desirable but most urgent.
The difference of opinion on the subject which manifested itself
previously to Sir Moses' arrival may perhaps be explained by what
had been stated in the British Consul's letter to Lord Stanley, to
the effect that the more wealthy class of the Jews in Roumania had
apparently not much reason to complain of ill-treatment.
Sir Moses now made his reports to Lord Stanley, Baron Brunnow, and the
London Committee of Deputies of the British Jews. The latter, six days
later (26th September), at a special meeting, adopted a resolution,
that "The Board can well appreciate the amount of peril and the great
anxieties to which its venerated colleague must have been subjected in
seeking the accomplishment of his arduous undertaking--doubtless the
blessing of Providence, his perseverance, his untiring energy, and his
wise discretion, have on this, as on previous occasions, enabled him
to succeed; and the Board expresses its ardent hope that this honoured
champion of Israel may be long spared to enjoy the esteem and love of
his co-religionists, and the friends of humanity throughout the world."
_September 27th._--It being near the time for the celebration of solemn
festivals in the Hebrew community, Sir Moses invited to East Cliff a
number of relatives and friends, who spent many happy days with him.
On his return to London he attended the meetings of his companies and
various communal institutions.
_Thursday, October 10th._--The Deputy of Ramsgate having received a
numerously signed requisition to call a public meeting for the purpose
of requesting Sir Moses to sit for his portrait to be placed in the
Town Hall, proceeded to East Cliff to make the request. Sir Moses
consented, and at a meeting of the Committee, Mr S. A. Hart, R.A., was
appointed to paint the portrait. It was to be a very large picture,
nine feet long. A resolution was also passed to the effect that an
address should be presented to Sir Moses on the 21st November.
In appreciation of the attention paid to him by his Ramsgate friends,
he invited the Deputy, two of the Committee, and the clergymen of St.
Laurence and St Peter's to dine with him and his friends from London,
including Mr Hart, the artist, on the day fixed for the presentation
of the address, and at the same time sent £100 to the treasurer of the
charity schools of Ramsgate to be divided amongst the children.
_December 12th._--He had an interview with Mr Jackson, Her Majesty's
Consul-General in Syria, on the desirability of appointing an English
Consul at Haifa for the better protection of the Jews, and he addressed
Lord Stanley on the subject. Hearing that Mr and Mrs Eldridge had
seen a very neat and light carriage, which pleased them greatly, he
considered it a great pleasure to be permitted to present them with
the same as a token of appreciation of the Consul's kindness, and the
protection afforded to Sir Moses' co-religionists.
The Diary of this day has an entry referring to a narrow escape he had
from personal danger. On his way through Smithfield to Fitzroy Square
in a cab, his footman being on the box with the driver, a butcher's
cart drawn by a runaway horse ran into them. The terrified driver
sprang from the box, leaving them to their fate; but fortunately
the furious animal turned aside at the very moment when it appeared
impossible for them to escape. "Another mark," he says, "of God's
goodness and providential protection."
He attended a special meeting of the Middlesex Magistrates to consider
what steps should be taken in consequence of the late outrage at the
House of Detention, a collection being afterwards made for the relief
of the sufferers.