Whatever the docility, the conciliatory attitude of our forced hosts,

however, I have yet to hear that one of them ever expressed repentance

for the horrors their nation loosed upon the world. The war they seemed

to take as the natural, the unavoidable thing, just a part of life, as

the gambler takes gambling, with no other regret than that it was their

bad luck to lose. Like the gambler, they may have been sorry they made

certain moves in the game; they may have regretted entering the game at

all, as the gambler would who knew in the end that his adversary had

more money on his hip than he had given him credit for in the beginning.

But it was never a regret for being a gambler. Did not Nietzsche say

that to regret, to repent, is a sign of weakness? Unless there was

something under his mask that never showed a hint of its existence on

the surface, the German is still a firm disciple of Nietzschean

philosophy.

There was much debate among American officers as to just what surge of

feeling passed through the veins of a German of high rank forced to

salute his conquerors. With rare exceptions, every Boche in uniform

rendered the required homage with meticulous care. Now and then one

carefully averted his eyes or turned to gaze into a shop-window in time

to avoid the humiliation. But for the most part they seemed almost to go

out of their way to salute, some almost brazenly, others with a

half-friendly little bow. I shall long remember the invariable click of

heels and the smart hand-to-cap of the resplendent old general with a

white beard who passed me each morning on the route to our respective

offices.

That there was feeling under these brazen exteriors, however, was proved

by the fact that most of the officers in the occupied area slipped

quietly into civilian clothes, for no other apparent reason than to

escape the unwelcome order. From the day of our entrance no German in

uniform was permitted in our territory unless on official business,

sanctioned by our authorities. But the term “uniform” was liberally

interpreted. A discharged soldier, unable to invest in a new wardrobe,

attained civilian status by exchanging his ugly, round, red-banded

fatigue-bonnet for a hat or cap; small boys were not rated soldiers

simply because they wore cut-down uniforms. Then on March 1st came a new

order from our headquarters commanding all members of the German army in

occupied territory never to appear in public out of uniform, always to

carry papers showing their presence in our area to be officially

authorized, and to report to an American official every Monday morning.

The streets of Coblenz blossomed out that day with more varieties of

German uniforms than most members of the A. E. P. had ever seen outside

a prisoner-of-war inclosure.

It was easy to understand why Germans in uniform saluted—they were

commanded to do so. But why did every male, from childhood up, in many

districts, raise his hat to us with a subservient “_’n Tag_”; why the

same words, with a hint of courtesy, from the women? Was it fear,

respect, habit, design? It could scarcely have been sarcasm; the German

peasantry barely knows the meaning of that. Why should a section

foreman, whose only suggestion of a uniform was a battered old railway

cap, go out of his way to render us military homage? Personally I am

inclined to think that, had conditions been reversed, I should have

climbed a tree or crawled into a culvert. But we came to wonder if they

did not consider the salute a privilege.

Only the well-dressed in the cities showed an attitude that seemed in

keeping with the situation, from our point of view. They frequently

avoided looking at us, pretended not to see us, treated us much as the

Chinese take their “invisible” property-man at the theater. At the back

door of our headquarters the pompous high priests of business and

politics, or those haughty, well-set-up young men who, one could see at

a glance, had been army officers, averted their eyes to hide the rage

that burned within them when forced to stand their turn behind some

slattern woman or begrimed workman. In a tramway or train now and then

it was amusing to watch a former captain or major, weather-browned with

service in the field, still boldly displaying his kaiserly mustache,

still wearing his army leggings and breeches, looking as out of place in

his civilian coat as a cowboy with a cane, as he half openly gritted his

teeth at the “undisciplined” American privates who dared do as they

pleased without so much as asking his leave. But it was no less amusing

to note how superbly oblivious to his wrath were the merrymaking

doughboys.

The kaiserly mustache of world-wide fame, by the way, has largely

disappeared, at least in the American sector. In fact, the over-modest

lip decoration made famous by our most popular “movie” star seemed to be

the vogue. More camouflage? More “_Kamerad_”? A gentle compliment to the

Americans? Or was it merely the natural change of style, the passing

that in time befalls all things, human or _kaiserlich_?

Speaking of German officers, when the first inkling leaked out of Paris

that Germany might be required by the terms of the Treaty of Peace to

reduce her army to a hundred thousand men there was a suggestion of

panic among our German acquaintances. It was not that they were eager to

serve their three years as conscripts, as their fathers had done. There

was parrot-like agreement that no government would ever again be able to

force the manhood of the land to that sacrifice. Nor was there any great

fear that so small an army would be inadequate to the requirements of

“democratized” Germany. The question was, “What on earth can we do with

all our officers, if you allow us only four thousand or so?”

Prohibition, I believe, raised the same grave problem with regard to our

bartenders. But as we visualized our own army reduced to the same stern

necessity the panic was comprehensible. What would we, under similar

circumstances, do with many of our dear old colonels? They would serve

admirably as taxi-door openers along Fifth Avenue—were it not for their

pride. They would scarcely make good grocery clerks; they were not spry

enough, nor accurate enough at figures. However, the predicament is one

the Germans can scarcely expect the Allies to solve for them.

“War,” said Voltaire, “is the business of Germany.” One realized more

and more the fact in that assertion as new details of the thorough

militarization of land, population, and industry came to light under our

occupancy. Fortifications, labyrinths of secret tunnels, massive stores

of everything that could by any possibility be of use in the complicated

business of war; every man up through middle age, who had still two legs

to stand on, marked with his service in Mars’s workshop; there was some

hint of militarization at every turn. Not the least striking of them was

the aggressive propaganda in favor of war and of loyalty to the war

lords. Not merely were there monuments, inscriptions, martial mottoes,

to din the military inclination into the simple _Volk_ wherever the eye

turned. In the most miserable little _Gasthaus_, with its bare floors

and not half enough cover on the beds to make a winter night

comfortable, huge framed pictures of martial nature stared down upon the

shivering guest. Here hung a life-size portrait of Hindenburg; there was

a war scene of Blücher crossing the Rhine; beyond, an “_Opfergaben des

Volkes_,” in which a long line of simple laboring people had come to

present with great deference their most cherished possession—a bent old

peasant, a silver heirloom; a girl, her hair—on the altar of their

rulers’ martial ambition. It is doubtful whether the Germans have any

conception of how widely this harvest of tares has overspread their

national life. It may come to them years hence, when grim necessity has

forced them to dig up the pernicious roots.

But the old order was already beginning to show signs of change. On a

government building over at Trier the first word of the lettering

“Königliches Hauptzollamt” had been obliterated. In a little town down

the Rhine the dingy

HOTEL DEUTSCHER KAISER

Diners 1 mk. 50 und höher

Logis von 2 mk. an

had the word “Kaiser” painted over, though it was still visible through

the whitewash, as if ready to come back at a new turn of events.

The adaptability of the German as a merchant has long since been proved

by his commercial success all over the world. It quickly became evident

to the Army of Occupation that he was not going to let his feelings—if

he had any—interfere with business. As a demand for German uniforms,

equipment, insignia faded away behind the retreating armies of the

Kaiser, commerce instantly adapted itself to the new conditions. Women

who had earned their livelihood or their pin-money for four years by

embroidering shoulder-straps and knitting sword-knots for the soldiers

in field gray quickly turned their needles to making the ornaments for

which the inquiries of the new-comers showed a demand. Shop-windows

blossomed out overnight in a chaos of divisional insignia, of service

stripes, with khaki cloth and the coveted shoulder-pins from brass bars

to silver stars, with anything that could appeal to the American

doughboy as a suitable souvenir of his stay on the Rhine—and this last

covers a multitude of sins indeed. Iron crosses of both classes were

dangled before his eager eyes. The sale of these “highest prizes of

German manhood” to their enemies as mere pocket-pieces roused a howl of

protest in the local papers, but the trinkets could still be had, if

more or less _sub rosa_. Spiked helmets—he must be an uninventive or an

absurdly truthful member of the new Watch on the Rhine who cannot show

visible evidence to the amazed folks at home of having captured at least

a dozen Boche officers and despoiled them of their headgear. Those

helmets were carried off by truck-loads from a storehouse just across

the Moselle; they loaded down the A. E. F. mails until it is strange

there were ships left with space for soldiers homeward bound. A sergeant

marched into his captain’s billet in an outlying town with a telescoped

bundle of six helmets and laid them down with a snappy, “Nine marks

each, sir.”

“Can you get me a half-dozen, too?” asked a visiting lieutenant.

“Don’t know, sir,” replied the sergeant. “He made these out of some

remnants he had left on hand, but he is not sure he can get any more

material.”

If we had not awakened to our peril in time and the Germans had taken

New York, would our seamstresses have made German flags and our

merchants have prominently displayed them in their windows, tagged with

the price? Possibly. We of the A. E. F. have learned something of the

divorce of patriotism from business since the days when the

money-grabbers first descended upon us in the training-camps at home.

The merchants of Coblenz, at any rate, were quite as ready to take an

order for a Stars and Stripes six feet by four as for a red, white, and

black banner. What most astonished, perhaps, the khaki-clad warriors who

had just escaped from France was the German’s lack of profiteering

tendencies. Prices were not only moderate; they remained so in spite of

the influx of Americans and the constant drop in the value of the mark.

The only orders on the subject issued by the American authorities was

the ruling that prices must be the same for Germans and for the soldiers

of occupation; nothing hindered merchants from raising their rates to

all, yet this rarely happened even in the case of articles of almost

exclusive American consumption.

“Shoe-shine parlors,” sometimes with the added enticement, “We Shine

Your Hobnails,” sprang up in every block and were so quickly filled with

Yanks intent on obeying the placard to “Look Like a Soldier” that the

proprietors had perforce to encourage their own timid people by posting

the notice, “Germans Also Admitted.” Barber shops developed hair carpets

from sheer inability to find time to sweep out, and at that the natives

were hard put to it to get rid of their own facial stubble. When the

abhorred order against photography by members of the A. E. F. was

suddenly and unexpectedly lifted, the camera-shops resembled the

entrance to a ball-park on the day of the deciding game between the two

big leagues. There was nothing timid or squeamish about German commerce.

Shops were quite ready to display post-cards showing French ruins with

chesty German officers strutting in the foreground, once they found that

these appealed to the indefatigable and all-embracing American

souvenir-hunter. Down in Cologne a German printing-shop worked overtime

to get out an official history of the American 3d Division. In the cafés

men who had been shooting at us three months before sat placidly sawing

off our own popular airs and struggling to perpetrate in all its native

horror that inexcusable hubbub known as the “American jazz.” The sign

“American spoken here” met the eye at frequent intervals. Whether the

wording was from ignorance, sarcasm, an attempt to be complimentary, or

a sign of hatred of the English has not been recorded. There was not

much call for the statement even when it was true, for it was astounding

what a high percentage of the Army of Occupation spoke enough German to

“get by.” The French never tired of showing their surprise when a Yank

addressed them in their own tongue; the Germans took it as a matter of

course, though they often had the ill manners to insist on speaking

“English” whatever the fluency of the customer in their own language, a

barbaric form of impoliteness which the French are usually too

instinctively tactful to commit.

On the banks of the Rhine in the heart of “Duddlebug”—keep it dark! It

is merely the American telephone girls’ name for Coblenz, but it would

be a grievous treachery if some careless reader let the secret leak out

to Berlin—there stands one of the forty-eight palaces that belonged to

the ex-Kaiser. Its broad lawn was covered now with hastily erected Y. M.

C. A. wooden recreation-halls that contrast strangely with the buildings

of the surrounding city, constructed to stand for centuries, and which

awaken in the German breast a speechless wrath that these irreverent

beings from overseas should have dared to perpetrate such a

_lèse-majesté_ on the sacred precincts. But the _Schloss_ itself was not

occupied by the Americans, and there have been questions asked as to the

reason—whether those in high standing in our army were showing a

sympathy for the monarch who took Dutch leave which they did not grant

the garden variety of his ex-subjects. The allegation has no basis. Upon

his arrival the commander of the Army of Occupation gave the palace a

careful “once over” and concluded that the simplest solution was to

leave its offices to the German authorities who were being ousted from

more modern buildings. As to the residence portion, the wily old

caretaker pointed out to the general that there was neither gas,

electricity, nor up-to-date heating facilities. In the immense drawing-

and throne-rooms there was, to be sure, space enough to billet a

battalion of soldiers, but it would, perhaps, have been too typically

Prussian an action to have risked a repetition of what occurred at

Versailles in 1871 by turning over this mess of royal bric-à-brac and

the glistening polished floors to the tender care of a hobnailed band of

concentrated virility.

Plainly impressive enough outwardly, the “living”-rooms of the castle

would probably be dubbed a “nightmare” by the American of simple tastes.

The striving of the Germans to ape the successful nations of antiquity,

the Greeks, and particularly the Romans, in art and architecture, as

well as in empire-building, is in evidence here, as in so many of the

ambitious residences of Coblenz. The result is a new style of “erudite

barbarism,” as Romain Rolland calls it, “laborious efforts to show

genius which result in the banal and grotesque.” The heavy, ponderous

luxury and mélange of style was on the whole oppressive. In the entire

series of rooms there was almost nothing really worth looking at for

itself, except a few good paintings and an occasional insignificant

little gem tucked away in some corner. They were mainly filled with

costly and useless bric-à-brac, royal presents of chiefly bad taste,

from Sultan, Pope, and potentate, all stuck about with a very stiff air

and the customary German over-ornateness. The place looked far less like

a residence than like a museum which the defenseless owner had been

forced to build to house the irrelevant mass of junk that had been

thrust upon him. Costly ivory sets of dominoes, chess, table croquet,

what not, showed how these pathetic beings, kings and emperors, passed

their time, which the misfortune of rank did not permit them to spend

wandering the streets or grassy fields like mere human beings.

The old caretaker had some silly little anecdote for almost every

article he pointed out. He had taken thousands of visitors through the

castle—it was never inhabited more than a month or two a year even

before the war—and the only thing that had ever been stolen was one of

the carved ivory table-croquet mallets, which had been taken by an

American Red Cross nurse. I was forced to admit that we had people like

that, even in America. In the royal chapel—now an American Protestant

church—the place usually taken by the pipe organ served as a half-hidden

balcony for the Kaiser, with three glaring red-plush chairs—those ugly

red-plush chairs, no one of which looked comfortable enough actually to

sit in, screamed at one all over the building—with a similar, simpler

embrasure opposite for the emperor’s personal servants. The main floor

below was fully militarized, like all Germany, the pews on the right

side being reserved for the army and inscribed with large letters from

front to rear—“Generalität,” “General Kommando,” “Offiziere und

Hochbeamter,” and so on, in careful order of rank. Red slip-covers with

a design of crowns endlessly repeated protected from dust most of the

furniture in the _salons_ and drawing-rooms, and incidentally shielded

the eye, for the furniture itself was far uglier than the covering.

The most pompous of _nouveaux riches_ could not have shown more evidence

of self-worship in their decorations. Immense paintings of themselves

and of their ancestors covered half the Hohenzollern walls, showing them

in heroic attitudes and gigantic size, alone with the world at their

feet, or in the very thick of battles, looking calm, collected, and

unafraid amid generals and followers who, from Bismarck down, had an air

of fear which the royal central figure discountenanced by contrast. Huge

portraits of princes, _Kurfürsten_, emperors, a goodly percentage of

them looking not quite intelligent enough to make efficient

night-watchmen, stared haughtily from all sides. A picture of the old

Hohenzollern castle, from which the family—and many of the world’s

woes—originally sprang, occupied a prominent place, as an American

“Napoleon of finance” might hang in his Riverside drawing-room a

painting of the old farm from which he set out to conquer the earth.

Much alleged art by members of the royal family, as fondly preserved as

Lizzy’s first—and last—school drawing, stood on easels or tables in

prominent, insistent positions. Presents from the Sultan were

particularly numerous, among them massive metal tablets with bits in

Arabic from the Koran. One of these read, according to the caretaker,

“He who talks least says most.” Unfortunately, the Kaiser could not read

Arabic, hence the particularly pertinent remark was lost upon him. In an

obscure corner hung one of the inevitable German cuckoo clocks, placed

there, if my guide was not mistaken, by a former empress in memory of

the spot where she plighted her troth. Poor, petty little romances of

royalty! Probably it was not so much coquetry as an effort to escape the

pseudo-magnificence of those appalling rooms that drove her into the

corner. How could any one be comfortable, either in mind or in body,

with such junk about them, much less pass the romantic hours of life in

their midst? I should much have preferred to have my _Verlobungskuss_ in

a railway station.

Only the library of the ex-empress, with its German, French, and English

novels and its works of piety, showed any sign of real human

individuality. Her favorite picture hung there—a painting showing a

half-starved woman weeping and praying over an emaciated child, called

“The Efficacy of Prayer.” No doubt the dear empress got much sentimental

solace out of it—just before the royal dinner was announced. The

Kaiser’s private sleeping-room, on the other hand, was simplicity

itself—far less sumptuous than my own a few blocks away. He had last

slept there, said the caretaker, in the autumn of 1914, while moving

toward the western front with his staff.

“And all this belongs to the state now, since Germany has become a

republic?” I remarked.

“Only a part of it,” replied my guide. “We are making up lists of the

private and crown property, and his own possessions will be returned to

the Kaiser.”

The outstanding feature of the visit was not the castle itself, however,

but the attitude of this lifelong servant of the imperial owner. The

assertion that no man is a hero to his valet applies, evidently, clear

up to emperors. The caretaker was a former soldier in a Jäger and

forestry battalion, born in the Thüringerwald fifty-six years ago, a man

of intelligence and not without education. He had been one of hundreds

who applied for a position in the imperial household in 1882, winning

the coveted place because he came “with an armful of fine references.”

To him the Kaiser and all his clan were just ordinary men, for whom he

evidently felt neither reverence nor disdain. Nor, I am sure, was he

posing democracy; he looked too tired and indifferent to play a part for

the benefit of my uniform. The many gossipy tales of royalty,

semi-nobility, and ignobility with which he spiced our stroll were told

neither with ill feeling nor with boastfulness; they were merely his

every-day thoughts, as a printer might talk of his presses or a farmer

of his crops.

Vagabonding Through Changing Germany · 第 3 / 28 段