It was these creature comforts of his new billeting area that made the

American soldier feel so strangely at home on the Rhine. Here his

office, in contrast to the rude stone casernes with their tiny tin

stoves that gave off smoke rather than heat, was cozy, warm, often well

carpeted. His billets scarcely resembled the frigid, medieval ones of

France. Now that no colonel can rank me out of it, I am free to admit

that in all my travels I have never been better housed and servanted

than in Coblenz, nor had a more solicitous host than the staid old judge

who was forced to take me in for a mere pittance—paid in the end by his

own people. The _Regierungsgebäude_—it means nothing more terrifying

than “government building”—which the rulers of the province yielded with

outward good grace to our army staff, need not have blushed to find

itself in Washington society. To be sure, we were able to dispossess the

Germans of their best, whereas the French could only allot us what their

own requirements left; yet there is still a margin in favor of the

Rhineland for material comfort.

I wonder if the American at home understands just what military

occupation means. Some of our Southerners of the older generation may,

but I doubt whether the average man can visualize it. Occupation means a

horde of armed strangers permeating to every nook and corner of your

town, of your house, of your private life. It means seeing what you have

hidden in that closet behind the chimney; it means yielding your spare

bed, even if not doubling up with some other member of the family in

order to make another bed available. It means having your daughters come

into constant close contact with self-assertive young men, often

handsome and fascinating; it means subjecting yourself, or at least your

plans, to the rules, sometimes even to the whims, of the occupiers.

The Americans came to Coblenz without any of those bombastic formalities

with which the imagination imbues an occupation. One day the streets

were full of soldiers, a bit slow in their movements and thinking

processes, dressed in bedraggled dull gray, and the next with more

soldiers, of quick perception and buoyant step, dressed in khaki. The

new-comers were just plain fighters, still dressed in what the shambles

of the Argonne had left them of clothing. They settled down to a shave

and a bath and such comforts as were to be had, with the unassuming

adaptability that marks the American. The Germans, seeing no signs of

those unpleasant things which had always attended _their_ occupation of

a conquered land, probably smiled to themselves and whispered that these

_Amerikaner_ were strangely ignorant of military privileges. They did

not realize that their own conception of a triumphant army, the rough

treatment, the tear-it-apart-and-take-what-you-want-for-yourself style

of von Kluck’s pets, was not the American manner. The doughboy might

hate a German man behind a machine-gun as effectively as any one, but

his hatred did not extend to the man’s women and children. With the

latter particularly he quickly showed that _camaraderie_ for which the

French had found him remarkable, and the plump little square-headed boys

and the over-blond little girls flocked about him so densely that an

order had to be issued requiring parents to keep their children away

from American barracks.

But the Germans soon learned that the occupiers knew what they were

about, or at least learned with vertiginous rapidity. A burgomaster who

admitted that he might be able to accommodate four hundred men in his

town, if given time, was informed that there would be six thousand

troops there in an hour, and that they must be lodged before nightfall.

Every factory, every industry of a size worth considering, that produced

anything of use to the Army of Occupation, was taken over. We paid well

for everything of the sort—or rather, the Germans did in the end, under

the ninth article of the armistice—but we took it. Scarcely a family

escaped the piercing eye of the billeting officer; clubs, hotels,

recreation-halls, the very schools and churches, were wholly or in part

filled with the boyish conquerors from overseas. We commandeered the

poor man’s drinking-places and transferred them into enlisted men’s

barracks. We shooed the rich man out of his sumptuous club and turned it

over to our officers. We allotted the pompous _Festhalle_ and many other

important buildings to the Y. M. C. A., and “jazz” and ragtime and

burnt-cork jokes took the place of _Lieder_ and _Männerchor_. While we

occupied their best buildings, the German staff which necessity had left

in Coblenz huddled into an insignificant little house on a side-street.

Promenading citizens encountered pairs of Yanks patrolling with fixed

bayonets their favorite _Spaziergänge_. Day after day throngs of Boches

lined up before the back door to our headquarters, waiting hours to

explain to American lieutenants why they wished to travel outside our

area. Though the lieutenants did not breakfast until eight, that line

formed long before daylight, and those who did not get in before noon

stood on, outwardly uncomplaining, sometimes munching a war-bread

sandwich, until the office opened again at two, taking their orders from

a buck private, probably from Milwaukee, with a red band on his arm. A

flicker of the M. P.’s eyelid, a flip of his hand, was usually the only

command needed; so ready has his lifetime of discipline made the average

German to obey any one who has an authoritative manner. Every

railway-station gate, even the crude little ferries across the Rhine and

the Moselle, were subject to the orders of pass-gathering American

soldiers.

The Germans could not travel, write letters, telephone, telegraph,

publish newspapers, without American permission or acquiescence.

Meetings were no longer family affairs; a German-speaking American

sergeant in plain clothes sat in on all of them. We marched whole

societies off to jail because they were so careless as to gather about

café tables without the written permission required for such activities.

When they were arrested for violations of these and sundry other orders

their fate was settled, not after long meditation by sage old gentlemen,

but in the twinkling of an eye by a cocksure lieutenant who had reached

the maturity of twenty-one or two, and who, after the custom of the A.

E. F., “made it snappy,” got it over with at once, and lost no sleep in

wondering if his judgment had been wrong. In the matter of cafés, we

touched the German in his tenderest spot by forbidding the sale or

consumption of all joy-producing beverages except beer and light

wines—and the American conception of what constitutes a strong drink

does not jibe with the German’s—and permitted even those to be served

only from eleven to two and from five to seven—though later we took pity

on the poor Boche and extended the latter period three hours deeper into

the evening.

Occasional incidents transcended a bit the spirit of our really lenient

occupation. We ordered the Stars and Stripes to be flown from every

building we occupied; and there were colonels who made special trips to

Paris to get a flag that could be seen—could not help being seen, in

fact—for fifty kilometers round about. The Germans trembled with fear to

see one of their most cherished bad customs go by the board when a

divisional order commanded them to leave their windows open at night,

which these strange new-comers considered a means of avoiding, rather

than abetting, the “flu” and kindred ailments. Over in Mayen a band of

citizens, in some wild lark or a surge of “democracy,” dragged a stone

statue of the Kaiser from its pedestal and rolled it out to the edge of

town. There an American sergeant in charge of a stone-quarry ordered it

broken up for road material. The Germans put in a claim of several

thousand marks to replace this “work of art.” The American officer who

“surveyed” the case genially awarded them three mk. fifty—the value of

the stone at current prices. In another village the town-crier summoned

forth every inhabitant over the age of ten, from the burgomaster down,

at nine each morning, to sweep the streets, and M. P.’s saw to it that

no one returned indoors until the American C. O. had inspected the work

and pronounced it satisfactory. But that particular officer cannot

necessarily be credited with originality for the idea; he had been a

prisoner in Germany. We even took liberties with the German’s time. On

March 12th all clocks of official standing were moved ahead to

correspond to the “summer hour” of France and the A. E. F., and that

automatically forced private timepieces to be advanced also. My host

declined for a day or two to conform, but he had only to miss one train

to be cured of his obstinacy. Coblenz was awakened by the insistent

notes of the American reveille; it was reminded of bedtime by that most

impressive of cradle-songs, the American taps, the solemn, reposeful

notes of which floated out across the Rhine like an invitation to wilful

humanity to lay away its disputes as it had its labors of the day.

In the main, for all the occupation, civilian life proceeded normally.

Trains ran on time; cinemas and music-halls perpetrated their customary

piffle on crowded and uproarious houses; bare-kneed football games

occupied the leisure hours of German youths; newspapers appeared as

usual, subject only to the warning to steer clear of a few specified

subjects; cafés were filled at the popular hours in spite of the

restrictions on consumption and the tendency of their orchestras to

degenerate into ragtime. Would military occupation be anything like this

in, say, Delaware? We often caught ourselves asking the question, and

striving to visualize our own land under a reversal of conditions. But

the imagination never carried us very far in that direction; at least

those of us who had left it in the early days of the war were unable to

picture our native heath under any such régime.

Though we appropriated their best to our own purposes, the Germans will

find it hard to allege any such wanton treatment of their property,

their homes, their castles, and their government buildings, as their own

hordes so often committed in France and Belgium. Our officers and men,

with rare exceptions, gave the habitations that had temporarily become

theirs by right of conquest a care which they would scarcely have

bestowed upon their own. The ballroom floor of Coblenz’s most princely

club was solicitously covered with canvas to protect it from officers’

hob-nails. Castle Stolzenfels, a favorite place of doughboy pilgrimage a

bit farther up the Rhine, was supplied with felt slippers for heavily

shod visitors. The Baedekers of the future will no doubt call the

tourist’s attention to the fact that such a _Schloss_, that this

governor’s palace and that colonel’s residence, were once occupied by

American soldiers, but there will be small chance to insinuate, as they

have against the French of 1689 into the description of half the

monuments on the Rhine, the charge “destroyed by the Americans in 1919.”

How quickly war shakes down! Until we grew so accustomed to it that the

impression faded away, it was a constant surprise to note how all the

business of life went on unconcerned under the occupation. _Ordnung_

still reigned. The postman still delivered his letters punctually and

placidly. Transportation of all kinds retained almost its peace-time

efficiency. Paper ends and cigarette butts might litter a corner here

and there, but that was merely evidence that some careless American

soldier was not carrying them to a municipal waste-basket in the

disciplined German fashion. For if the Boches themselves had thrown off

restraint “over in Germany”—a thing hard to believe and still harder to

visualize—there was little evidence of a similar tendency along the

Rhine.

Dovetailed, as it were, into the life of our late adversaries on the

field of battle, there was a wide difference of opinion in the A. E. F.

as to the German character. The French had no such doubts. They admitted

no argument as to the criminality of the Boche; yet they confessed

themselves unable to understand his psychology. “_Ils sont sincèrement

faux_” is perhaps the most succinct summing up of the French verdict.

“It took the world a long time to realize that the German had a national

point of view, a way of thinking quite at variance with the rest of the

world”—our known western world, at least; I fancy we should find the

Japanese not dissimilar if we could read deep down into his heart. But

the puzzling thing about the German’s “mentality” is that up to a

certain point he is quite like the rest of us. As the alienist’s patient

seems perfectly normal until one chances upon his weak spot, so the

German looks and acts for the most part like any normal human being. It

is only when one stumbles upon the subject of national ethics that he is

found widely separated from the bulk of mankind. Once one discovers this

sharp corner in his thinking, and is able to turn it with him, it is

comparatively easy to comprehend the German’s peculiar notions of recent

events.

“The Hun,” asserted a European editorial-writer, “feels that his army

has not been beaten; that, on the contrary, he had all the military

prestige of the war. Then he knew that there was increasing scarcity of

food at home and, feeling that the Allies were in mortal dread of new

drives by the German army and would be only too glad to compromise, he

proposed an armistice. Germany expected the world to supply her gladly

with all her needs, as a mark of good faith, and to encourage the

timorous Allies she offered to let them advance to the Rhine. Now the

Germans affect to wonder why Germany is not completely supplied by the

perfidious Allies, and why the garrisons, having been allowed to see the

beautiful Rhine scenery, do not withdraw. Not only the ignorant classes,

but those supposedly educated, take that attitude. They consider,

apparently, that the armistice was an agreement for mutual benefit, and

the idea that the war was anything but a draw, with the prestige all on

the German side, has not yet penetrated to the German mind.”

With the above—it was written in January—and the outward show of

friendliness for the American Army of Occupation as a text, I examined

scores of Germans of all classes, whom our sergeants picked out of the

throngs that passed through our hands and pushed one by one into my

little office overlooking the Rhine. Their attitude, their answers were

always the same, parrot-like in their sameness. Before a week had passed

I could have set down the replies, almost in their exact words, the

instant the man to be interviewed appeared in the doorway, to click his

heels resoundingly while holding his arms stiffly at his sides. As

becomes a long-disciplined people, the German is certainly no

individualist. Once one has a key to it, one can be just as sure what he

is going to do, and how he is going to do it, as one can that duplicates

of the shoes one has always worn are going to fit. Yet what did they

really think, away down under their generations of discipline? This

procession of men with their close-cropped heads and their china-blue

eyes that looked at me as innocently as a Nürnberg doll, who talked so

glibly with apparent friendliness and perfect frankness, surely has

_some_ thoughts hidden away in the depths of their souls. Yet one

seldom, if ever, caught a glimpse of them. Possibly there were none

there; the iron discipline of a half-century may have killed the hidden

roots as well as destroyed the plant itself. In contrast with the

sturdily independent American, sharply individualistic still in spite of

his year or two of army training, these heel-clicking automatons were

exasperating in their garrulous taciturnity.

“What most characterizes the German,” said Mosers, more than a century

ago, “is obedience, respect for force.” What probably struck the plain

American doughboy even more than mere obedience was their passive

docility, their immediate compliance with all our requirements. They

could have been so mean, so disobedient in petty little ways without

openly disobeying. Instead, they seemed to go out of their road to make

our task of occupation easy. Their racial discipline not merely did not

break down; it permeated every nook and corner. The very children never

gave a gesture, a whisper of wilfulness; the family warning found them

as docile as a lifetime of training had left the adults. It was easy to

imagine French or American boys under the same conditions—all the bright

little Hallowe’en tricks they would have concocted to make unpleasant

the life of the abhorred enemy rulers. Was it not perhaps this, from the

German point of view, criminally undisciplined character of other races,

as much as their own native brutality, that caused the armies of the

Kaiser to inflict so many unfair punishments? Any traveler who has noted

the abhorrence with which the German looks upon the simplest infraction

of the most insignificant order—the mere entering by a “Verbotener

Eingang”—that the American would disobey and pay his fine and go his way

with a smile of amusement on his face, will not find it difficult to

visualize the red rage with which the German soldier beheld any lack of

seriousness toward the stern and sacred commands of their armies of

occupation.

None of us guessed aright as to Germany’s action in case of defeat. Talk

of starvation though we will, she did not fight to a standstill, as our

South did, for example. She gave proof of a strong faith in the old

adage beginning “He who fights and runs away....” She quit when the tide

turned, not at the last crag of refuge, and one could not but feel less

respect for her people accordingly. But whatever remnant of estimation

may have been left after their sudden abandonment of the field might

have been enhanced by an occasional lapse from their docility, by a

proof now and then that they were human, after all. Instead, we got

something that verged very closely upon cringing, as a personal enemy

one had just trounced might bow his thanks and offer to light his

victor’s cigar. It is impossible to believe that any one could be

rendered so docile by mere orders from above. It is impossible to

believe they had no hatred in their hearts for the nation that finally

turned the balance of war against them. It must be habit, habit formed

by those with superimposed rulers, as contrasted with those who have

their word, or at least fancy they have, in their own government.

That they should take the fortunes of war philosophically was

comprehensible. The most chauvinistic of them must now and then have had

an inkling that those who live by the sword might some day catch the

flash of it over their own heads. Or it may be that they had grown so

used to military rule that ours did not bother them. Except to their

politicians, their ex-officers, and the like, who must have realized

most keenly that some one else was “holding the bag,” what real

difference is there between being ruled by a just and not ungentle enemy

from across the sea and by an iron-stern hierarchy in distant Berlin?

Besides, has not Germany long contended that the stronger peoples have

absolute rights over the weaker? Why, then, should they contest their

own argument when they suddenly discovered, to their astonishment, that

their claims to the position of superman were poorly based? The weak

have no rights—it is the German himself who has said so. Was it this

belief that gave their attitude toward us, outwardly at least, a

suggestion of almost Arabic fatalism? It is no such anomaly as it may

seem that the German and the Turk should have joined forces; they have

considerable in common—“Allah, Il Allah, Thy will be done”!

The last thing the Germans showed toward our Army of Occupation was

enmity. Nothing pointed to a smoldering resentment behind their masks,

as, for example, with the Mexicans. There was slight difference between

an errand of liaison to a bureau of the German staff-officers left in

Coblenz and similar commissions to the French or the Italians before the

armistice—an atmosphere only a trifle more strained, which was natural

in view of the fact that I came to order rather than to cajole. The

observation balloon that rode the sky above our area, its immense Stars

and Stripes visible even in unoccupied territory, was frequently pointed

out with interest, never with any evidence of animosity. There was a

constant stream of people, principally young men, through our offices,

inquiring how they could most easily emigrate to America. Incidentally

we were besieged by scores of “Americans” who spoke not a word of

English, who had been “caught here by the war” and had in many cases

killed time by serving in the German army, but who now demanded all the

privileges which their “citizenship” was supposed to confer upon them. A

German major wrote a long letter of application for admission into the

American army, with the bland complacency with which a pedagogue whose

school had been abolished might apply for a position in another. There

was not a sign of resentment even against “German-Americans”—as the

Boche was accustomed to call them until he discovered the virtual

non-existence of any such anomaly—for having entered the war against the

old Fatherland. The government of their adopted country had ordered them

to do so, and no one understands better than the German that government

orders are issued to be obeyed.

Some contended that the women in particular had a deep resentment

against the American soldiers, that they were still loyal to the Kaiser

and to the old order of things, that they saw in us the murderers of

their sons and husbands, the jailers of their prisoners. On a few rare

occasions I felt a breath of frigidity in the attitude of some _grande

dame_ of the haughtier class. But whether it was a definite policy of

conciliation to win the friendship of America, in the hope that it would

soften the blow of the Treaty of Peace, as a naughty boy strives to make

up for his naughtiness at sight of the whip being taken down from its

hook, or a mere “mothering instinct,” the vast majority of our

hostesses, even though war widows, went out of their way to make our

stay with them pleasant. Clothes were mended, buttons sewed on unasked.

Maids and housewives alike gave our quarters constant attention. The

mass of Americans on the Rhine came with the impression that they would

be forced to go heavily armed day and night. Except for the established

patrols and sentries, the man or officer who “toted” a weapon anywhere

in the occupied area could scarcely have aroused the ridicule of his

comrades more had he appeared in sword and armor. There was, to be sure,

a rare case of an American soldier being done to death by hoodlums in

some drunken brawl, but, for the matter of that, so there was in France.

Now and then one stumbled upon the sophistry that seems so established a

trait in the German character. No corporation lawyer could have been

more clever in finding loopholes in the proclamations issued by the Army

of Occupation than those adherents of the “scrap of paper” fallacy who

set out to do so. My host sent up word from time to time for permission

to spend an evening with me over a bottle of well-aged Rhine wine with

which his cellar seemed still to be liberally stocked. On one occasion

the conversation turned to several holes in the ceiling of my sumptuous

parlor. They were the result, the pompous old judge explained, of an air

raid during the last August of the war. A bomb had carried away the

window-shutters, portions of the granite steps beneath, and had

liberally pockmarked the stone façade of the house.

“It was horrible,” he growled. “We all had to go down into the cellar,

and my poor little grandson cried from fright. _That_ is no way to make

war, against the innocent non-combatants, and women and children.”

I did not trouble to ask him if he had expressed the same sentiments

among his fellow club-members in, say, May, 1915, for his sophistry was

too well trained to be caught in so simple a trap.

Vagabonding Through Changing Germany · 第 2 / 28 段