Bazin has not yet arrived. I haven't an idea what has become of him. I

am rather afraid that, in the enthusiasm aroused by his passage through

his native place, his fellow-townsmen may have laid violent hands upon

his person, and nailed him on a pedestal, as a statue dedicated to his

own glory! They are a hot-headed set at Marseilles, and quite capable of

anything of the sort! He might send himself in as the result of his

Academy work!

Good-bye, my dear Hector. You know how fond I am of you, so, as the

saying is, I salute you on both cheeks and on your left eye likewise. If

Courtepee[9] is still with you, tell him I grasp his hand with special

fervour. I hope you are full of health and spirits, both of you, and I

think if you are having the same weather as we are, you must be doing

wonderful good work. Good-bye again, dear friend,--Yours always,

CHARLES GOUNOD.

* * * * *

MY DEAR ARCHITECT,--I seize the opportunity our good musician's letter

gives me, to let you know I am alive. Our great sculptor Gruyere has

informed me you are struggling with an accumulation of head colds. I

trust the sun that shines o'er noble and voluptuous Venice will thaw the

ice winter has piled within your brain!

You had a great success at the Exhibition. Everybody was much struck by

your drawings, the Ambassador and his wife most of all. I do not mention

my own performances; they are neither important nor well executed enough

to be worth writing about. Our celebrated composer's Mass has had a

great success, both amongst ourselves and with the general public. It

was well performed, thanks to the activity he displayed in shaking up

all the old sleepy-heads! If you see Loubens,[10] pray give him my best

regards. What have you done with Courtepee? Can you get him up in the

mornings when you get up yourself, you early bird?

Farewell! If I can make myself either useful or agreeable to you,

command me.--E. HEBERT.

* * * * *

Murat absolutely refuses to write even two lines. He says he will write

later on.

CHARLES GOUNOD.

* * * * *

That is a lie!--MURAT.

III

_GERMANY_

My natural road from Rome to Germany lay by Florence into Northern

Italy, and so eastwards _via_ Ferrara, Padua, Venice, and Trieste.

Although I did make a halt in Florence, I cannot undertake to give a

full description of that city. Like Rome, it possesses an inexhaustible

store of art treasures. The Uffizi Gallery with its wonderful Tribune (a

very shrine of exquisite relics), the Palazzo Pitti, the Academy,

Churches and Convents, all teem with masterpieces. But even here, in

lovely Florence, Michael Angelo reigns supreme, from the proud eminence

of that wonderful and overwhelmingly impressive Medici Chapel, on which,

as on the Vatican at Rome, his genius has stamped its mark--unique,

incomparable, overshadowing every other.

Wherever Michael Angelo's hand has been, devoutest attention is

instinctively aroused; when the master speaks, all others hold their

peace. Nowhere perhaps is the mysterious power of supreme silence more

effectually shown than in the awe-inspiring crypt of the Medici Chapel.

How tremendous is that figure of the "Pensieroso" standing there

motionless like a silent sentinel over death, awaiting the blast of the

last trump! What repose and grace, too, in the figure of Night, or

rather of Sleep, "that knits up the ravelled sleave of Care," beside the

robust form of Day lying bound and fettered as it were, till the last

dawn shall come. It is the deep meaning hidden in all Michael Angelo's

work, as well as the combination of nature and fancy in the attitudes of

his statues, which gives them that intensity of expression so specially

characteristic of his mighty genius. The huge proportions of his figures

are but a type of the deep bed worn by the torrent of his mighty

thoughts, and thus it is that any imitation of a form of art which

nothing but his genius had power to fill and quicken is foredoomed to

seem both pompous and bombastic. But time and lack of funds forbade my

tarrying on my road to Germany, so I can do no more than mention

Florence, and the pleasant recollections I took away with me. I passed

through the deserted city of Ferrara, and spent a couple of days in

Padua to see the beautiful frescoes of Giotto and Mantegna.

During my stay in Italy I had made acquaintance with the three great

cities which are the art centres of that favoured land--Rome, Florence,

and Naples. Rome, the City of the soul; Florence, the City of the mind;

Naples, the home of brilliant sunlight, of wild and dazzling gaiety.

I was about to make the acquaintance of a fourth, which, like the

others, holds a great and glorious place in the history of art. For the

geographical position of the city has given Venice and Venetian art a

distinct and unique character of their own.

Cheerful or sad, sunlit or gloomy, rose-red or deadly pale, smiling or

darkly forbidding, each and all by turns, Venice is one perpetual

kaleidoscope, a weird mixture of the most contradictory impressions, a

pearl, I might almost say, cast into a dark and noisome place. Venice!

she charms like any sorceress! She is the native haunt of the most

radiant form of art. She has cast a flood of sunshine on the painter's

canvas!

Unlike Rome, which waits your pleasure, draws you slowly onwards step by

step, until you fall into an utter and never-ending thraldom of

admiration, Venice takes swift hold upon your senses, and fascinates you

at one fell swoop. Rome is serene and soothing, Venice heady and

exciting. The intoxication of her charms is tinged (it was at least in

my case) with a sort of nameless melancholy, like a captive's sense of

loneliness. Is it the shadow cast by the dark deeds of former days, to

which the city seems predestined by its very situation? It may be. But

whether it be so or not, I cannot fancy any one staying long in this

semi-amphibious City of the Dead without growing to feel half choked and

plunged into deep depression. With its sleeping waters lapping in dismal

silence round the walls of its old palaces, and its gloomy shadows

whence the groan of some murdered noble seems to float, Venice is a city

of terror; disaster hangs around her even now!

But yet, in the full sunlight, what can be more fairylike than the Grand

Canal, or those glittering lagoons whose waves seem made of liquid

light! What vivid power clings to those relics of departed splendour,

which seem to call aloud to the blue sky, beseeching it to save them

from the abyss that slowly but surely sucks them down, and will end some

day by engulphing them for ever!

Rome stands for meditation, Venice for intoxication. Rome is the great

Latin ancestress whose conquests are destined to give the world one

catholic and universal language--a prelude and a means to another

Catholicism, deeper and vaster yet. Venice is a true Oriental--Byzantine,

not Greek; she makes one think much more of Satraps than of Pontiffs,

of Eastern luxury rather than of Athenian or Roman dignity.

Even San Marco, with all its wonders, is more of a mosque than a

basilica or a cathedral; it appeals far more to the imagination than to

the deepest feelings of the soul. The splendour of the mosaics and

gilding, pouring a stream of dark rich tints from the roof of the dome

to its very base, is utterly unique. I know nothing like it either in

strength of colouring or powerfulness of effect.

Venice breathes passion, as distinct from love. I was bewitched the

moment I arrived, but I left it without the pang I felt on quitting

Rome--a sure sign and measure of the impression each city had produced

on me.

Naples is like a smile from Greece; the horizon glowing with purple and

azure, the blue sky reflected by the sapphire sea, even the ancient

name, Parthenope, carry us back to that brilliant civilisation on which

nature had bestowed such an exquisite setting. But Venice smiles on the

traveller in quite a different way. She is coaxing and she is false,

like a feast laid out on the trap-door of a dungeon. This doubtless is

why involuntarily I felt more relief than regret when I departed, in

spite of the masterpieces of art and the mysterious and magic charm I

left behind me.

A steamer bore me to Trieste, where I at once took the stage-coach for

Gratz. I halted on my way to visit the curious and wonderful stalactite

caverns of Adelsberg; they are like underground cathedrals. Crossing the

Carinthian mountains (whose ragged outline I consigned to my

sketch-book), I reached Gratz, and then Olmutz. Thence I went on by

railway to Vienna, my first stopping place on this German tour which it

was my one object to get through as quickly as possible, so as to

shorten my exile from my mother's roof.

Vienna is a very cheerful city. The inhabitants struck me as being much

more like Frenchmen than Germans. They are full of vivacity, high

spirits, good-humour, and gaiety.

I had brought no letters of introduction with me, and I did not know a

single soul. I took up my quarters in an hotel until I should be able to

find quieter and less expensive rooms. It was absolutely necessary, as I

was to make a stay of some months' duration, to cut my coat according to

my cloth. A travelling acquaintance had strongly advised me to board and

lodge in a private family, if possible; and I soon found an opportunity

of putting his advice to a practical test.

Nothing in the world would have induced me to let my mother stint

herself to swell my modest purse; even had I felt the least inclined to

unnecessary expenditure, the thought of her life of toil would have

overcome any such temptation. Board, lodging, and theatre expenses

(which last were a necessary item in my musical education) made up the

whole of my necessary outlay, and with due care and economy the amount

of my scholarship was quite sufficient to cover that.

The first thing I saw advertised on the Viennese Opera posters was

Mozart's "Flauto Magico." I rushed forthwith and took the cheapest

ticket I could get, for the very top of the house. Modest as it was, I

would not have bartered it for an empire!

It was the first chance I had had of hearing that exquisite score, and I

was perfectly enchanted. It was thoroughly well rendered. Otto Nicolai

conducted the orchestra. The Queen of Night was very well played by a

singer of remarkable talent, Madame Hasselt Barth; the High Priest

Sarastro by a celebrated artist with a splendid voice, a first-class

method, and a magnificent style--Staudigl himself. The other _roles_,

too, were very carefully performed, and I still remember the sweet

voices of the boys who appeared as the three Genii.

I sent in my name (as an Academy student) to the Conductor, and asked if

I could see him. He sent for me, and I was conducted to his presence on

the stage itself, where he introduced me to the various artists, with

whom I kept up pretty close relations from that night out. As I could

not speak a single word of German, and as most of them knew little more

French, it was not easy to get on at first. While I was standing on the

stage, I was lucky enough to make acquaintance, also through Nicolai,

with a member of the orchestra, who spoke French. His name was Levy,

and he was the leading cornet-player. His son, Richard Levy, then

fourteen years old, held the same appointment at the Viennese Opera in

later years as his father had before him. He received me in the kindest

way, and asked me to call upon him. In a very short time we were firm

friends. He had three other children. The eldest, Carl Levy, was a

talented pianist and a skilful composer; the second, Gustave, is now a

musical publisher at Vienna; and the daughter, Melanie, a charming

creature, married the harpist Parish Alwars.

Through his kind offices, after a few weeks' residence in Vienna, I made

the acquaintance of Count Stockhammer, one of the most useful friends I

found there. He was President of the Philharmonic Society; and Levy, to

whom I had shown the Mass I wrote in Rome, took me to see him, and spoke

of the work in very favourable terms. The Count, with kindly

promptitude, offered to have it performed in the Church of St. Charles,

by the soloists, choruses, and orchestra of the Society.[11] The day

fixed was the 14th of September.

My work seemed to give general satisfaction, a fact of which Count

Stockhammer at once gave me the most substantial proof by asking me to

write a Requiem Mass--solos, choruses, and orchestral accompaniments--to

be performed in the same church on All Souls' Day, November 2nd.

I had a bare six weeks before me. The only chance of getting the work

done in time was to toil at it night and day, without rest or

intermission. I joyfully agreed to do it, and did not lose a moment in

beginning. The Requiem was ready by the appointed date. Thanks to that

universal diffusion of musical knowledge which is such a delightful and

peculiar feature in Germany, a single rehearsal sufficed to make it all

run smoothly. I was particularly struck by the facility with which mere

schoolboys read music at sight--as easily as if it were their mother

tongue. The choruses, too, were rendered to perfection. Among the

soloists was a man of the name of Draxler, still quite young, with a

magnificent bass voice. He and Staudigl were the leading basses at the

Opera. I heard some years later that Staudigl had gone mad, and died;

and Draxler, who took his place, still held it when I went back to

Vienna in 1868, twenty-five years after, to produce my opera "Romeo and

Juliet."

Some time before the performance of my Requiem, Nicolai had made me

acquainted with an eminent composer named Becker, who devoted himself

entirely to chamber music. A quartette party met at his house every

week, and Holz, the first violin, had known Beethoven very intimately; a

fact which, putting his own talent aside, made him very interesting

company. Becker was also considered the most capable musical critic in

all Germany at that time. He came to hear my Requiem, and published a

_critique_ couched in terms of such high compliment as to be an immense

encouragement to so young a man as I then was. My score, he said,

"though evidently from the hand of a novice whose style is still

unformed, and who has scarcely realised whither his powers may lead him,

displays a grandeur of conception which is exceedingly rare now-a-days."

This heavy piece of work, undertaken and carried through within such a

short space of time, knocked me up so completely that I fell ill with a

violent attack of sore throat, complicated with abscesses. Not wishing

to frighten my mother, I confided the true state of my health to nobody

except my dear friends the Desgoffes, who were then in Paris. The moment

Desgoffe knew I was lying ill in Vienna he left wife, daughter, and the

pictures he was painting for the Salon, without a moment's hesitation,

and started off to watch by my bedside and nurse me.

The journey from Paris to Vienna took five or six days at that time. It

was now mid-winter, December in fact, and what would have been bad

enough in any case at that season, was made far worse by the serious

illness my poor friend contracted on the way. When he arrived at Vienna

he stood sorely in need of care himself. Yet he spent no fewer than

twenty-two days at my bedside, snatching a few moments' sleep on a

mattress on the floor, and watching over my every movement with the most

motherly care. He only left me and returned to Paris when the doctor had

satisfied him that I was completely convalescent.

Such friendship is not often met with; but, indeed, Providence has been

more than good to me in that respect.

The success of my Requiem had made me alter my plans as to my stay in

Germany, and I determined to prolong my sojourn in Vienna. Count

Stockhammer gave me a fresh commission on behalf of the Philharmonic

Society. This time it was a vocal Mass without accompaniment, to be sung

in Lent in the same church, dedicated to St. Charles, my patron saint. I

was glad to take this fresh opportunity, not only of gaining practice in

my art, but also of getting my work performed--a rare and precious

privilege at the opening of any man's career. This was the second

considerable piece of work I did at Vienna, and my last. I left that

city immediately after the performance for Berlin, _via_ Prague and

Dresden, in neither of which towns did I stay long. But I felt I must

not leave Dresden without visiting that admirable museum which, among

other treasures, contains the famous Madonna by Holbein, and that other

wonderful Madonna known as the "San Sisto," painted by Raphael's

master-hand.

As soon as I reached Berlin I went, according to her request, to call on

Madame Henzel. But within three weeks I was seriously ill again, this

time with internal inflammation, and that just when I had written my

mother that I was about to start homewards, and that we should soon be

reunited after our weary separation of over three and a half years.

Madame Henzel at once sent her own doctor to me, and to him I presented

the following ultimatum--

"Sir, I have a mother waiting for me in Paris, counting the hours till I

get back; if she were to hear I am prevented from getting home by

illness, she would probably start off to join me, and she might quite

possibly lose her reason on the road. She is getting old. I must make up

some explanation of my delay, but it can only be a very short one. I can

only give you a fortnight, either to bury me or set me on my legs

again."

"Very good," quoth the doctor; "if you will make up your mind to obey my

orders, you may travel in a fortnight."

He kept his word; on the fourteenth day I was out of the wood, and eight

and forty hours after I had started for Leipzig, where Mendelssohn was

living, with a letter of introduction to him from his sister, Madame

Henzel.

Mendelssohn received me wonderfully--I use the expression advisedly, to

describe the condescension extended by such an illustrious man to a

youth who could not in his eyes have been more than a novice. I can

truly say that for the four days I spent at Leipzig he devoted himself

to me. He questioned me about my studies and my works with the keenest

and sincerest interest. He made me play some of my later efforts to him,

and gave me precious words of approbation and encouragement. One

sentence only will I quote; I am too proud of it ever to have forgotten

it. I had just played him the "Dies Irae" from my Vienna Requiem. He laid

his finger on a passage written for five voices without accompaniment,

and said--

"My boy, that might have been written by Cherubini!"

Such words from such a master are better than any decoration--more

precious to their recipient than all the ribbons and stars in Europe.

Mendelssohn was Director of the "Gewandhaus" Philharmonic Society. As

the concert season was over, there were no meetings of the society going

on, but he showed me the delicate kindness of calling its members

together for my benefit. Thus I heard his beautiful work known as the

"Scotch Symphony" in A Minor, and he afterwards gave me the full score

endorsed with a few kind words in his own handwriting.

Too soon, alas! the early death of that splendid genius, in the heyday

of his beauty and his charm, was to transform this friendly memento into

a treasured and precious relic. He died only six months after the

charming woman to whom I owed my acquaintance with her gifted brother.

Mendelssohn did not confine himself to calling the Philharmonic Society

together for my benefit. An admirable organist himself, he was anxious I

should make acquaintance with some of the numerous and admirable works

composed by the mighty Sebastian Bach for the instrument over which he

reigned supreme. With this object, he had the old organ at St.

Thomas's--the very instrument Bach himself used--examined and repaired,

and there for two long hours and more he revealed an unknown world of

beauty to my wondering ears.

Finally, to crown it all, he presented me with a collection of motets by

this same Bach, who was a sort of god to him, in whose school he had

been formed from infancy, and whose Passion music, "according to St.

Matthew," he had conducted and accompanied by heart before he was

fifteen.

Such was the kind treatment I received at the hands of that most lovable

of men, that splendid artist, that magnificent musician, cut off, alas!

in the flower of his age (just eight-and-thirty), snatched from the

plaudits he had earned so well, and from the yet more glorious results

the later efforts of his talent might have yielded. Strange is the fate

of genius, even when endued with the charm possessed by his! It was not

till Mendelssohn himself was dead that the ears which would not hearken

in his lifetime learnt to appreciate the exquisite works which are now

the joy and delight of every subscriber to the Conservatoire concerts.

Once I had seen Mendelssohn I could think of nothing except of getting

back as fast as possible to Paris and to my beloved mother. I left

Leipzig on May 18, 1843. I changed carriages seventeen times on the

road, and travelled four nights out of six. At length, on May 25, I

reached Paris, where my life was to enter on a new and different phase.

I found my brother waiting for me when the mail-coach arrived, and

together we hurried to that beloved home into which I was about to carry

so much new happiness, and return to so much that I had left behind.

IV

_HOME AGAIN_

Whether my three and a half years of absence had wrought a mighty change

in my appearance, or my last illness (still very recent) and the stains

of travel had played havoc with my looks, I know not, but anyhow my

mother did not recognise me when I arrived. True, I had a budding beard,

but such a slight one, that any one might have counted every hair.

During my absence my mother had left the Rue de l'Eperon, and settled

down in the Rue Vaneau, in the parish known as "Les Missions

Etrangeres," the church of which stands at the corner of the Rue du Bac

and the Rue de Babylone. There a post awaited me which was to fill up my

time for several years to come. The priest of this parish, the Abbe

Dumarsais, had formerly been chaplain at the Lycee St. Louis. His

predecessor at the Missions Etrangeres was the Abbe Lecourtier.

While I was in Rome at the Academie de France, the Abbe Dumarsais had

written to offer me, on my return, the appointment of organist and

chapel-master to his parish. This I had accepted, but under certain

conditions. I had no notion of taking any advice, and still less any

orders, on musical matters, from priest or parish authorities, or

anybody else. I had my own ideas, my own opinions, my own convictions.

In short, I meant either to have my own way about the music, or not have

anything to do with it. That was flat. However, my conditions were

accepted, and all should have gone smoothly.

But old habit is hard to break. My predecessor had accustomed the worthy

parishioners to a style of music quite different from that which I had

brought back with me from Rome and Germany. Palestrina and Bach were

deities in _my_ eyes, and I was casting down the idols _they_ were

accustomed to worship.

The means at my disposal were almost _nil_. Besides the organ--a small

and very inferior instrument--I had two basses, a tenor, and one

choir-boy, without reckoning myself, who was chapel-master, organist,

singer, and composer all in one. I had to do my best with what I found

to my hand, and the necessity which forced me to use these very modest

resources to the best possible advantage was of real benefit to me in

the long run. Things went on well enough at first, but I guessed, from a

sort of coldness and reserve I noticed, that I was not altogether in the

good books of the congregation. I was not mistaken. About the end of my

first year of office, the priest sent for me, and confided to me that he

had to endure many complaints and reproaches from his flock. Monsieur or

Madame So-and-so did not consider the musical part of the service the

least bit cheerful or entertaining. He therefore suggested to me to

"change my style," and to "give in to them a little."

"My dear Abbe," I said, "you know our bargain. I didn't come here to

consult the taste of your parishioners, but to improve it. If they don't

like my 'style,' as you call it, there is a simple way out of the

difficulty. I will resign, you can reappoint my predecessor, and

everybody will be satisfied. The matter is entirely in your own hands."

"Very well," said the Abbe; "all right. I accept your resignation."

Thereupon we parted the best of friends. I had not been home for more

than half an hour when the Abbe's servant knocked at my door.

"Well, Jean, what is it?"

"Sir, Monsieur Abbe would like to see you."

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