I. The Cup of Humanity

Tea began as a medicine and grew into a beverage. In China, in the

eighth century, it entered the realm of poetry as one of the polite

amusements. The fifteenth century saw Japan ennoble it into a religion

of aestheticism--Teaism. Teaism is a cult founded on the adoration

of the beautiful among the sordid facts of everyday existence. It

inculcates purity and harmony, the mystery of mutual charity, the

romanticism of the social order. It is essentially a worship of the

Imperfect, as it is a tender attempt to accomplish something possible in

this impossible thing we know as life.

The Philosophy of Tea is not mere aestheticism in the ordinary

acceptance of the term, for it expresses conjointly with ethics and

religion our whole point of view about man and nature. It is hygiene,

for it enforces cleanliness; it is economics, for it shows comfort in

simplicity rather than in the complex and costly; it is moral geometry,

inasmuch as it defines our sense of proportion to the universe. It

represents the true spirit of Eastern democracy by making all its

votaries aristocrats in taste.

The long isolation of Japan from the rest of the world, so conducive to

introspection, has been highly favourable to the development of

Teaism. Our home and habits, costume and cuisine, porcelain, lacquer,

painting--our very literature--all have been subject to its influence.

No student of Japanese culture could ever ignore its presence. It has

permeated the elegance of noble boudoirs, and entered the abode of

the humble. Our peasants have learned to arrange flowers, our meanest

labourer to offer his salutation to the rocks and waters. In our

common parlance we speak of the man "with no tea" in him, when he is

insusceptible to the serio-comic interests of the personal drama.

Again we stigmatise the untamed aesthete who, regardless of the mundane

tragedy, runs riot in the springtide of emancipated emotions, as one

"with too much tea" in him.

The outsider may indeed wonder at this seeming much ado about nothing.

What a tempest in a tea-cup! he will say. But when we consider how small

after all the cup of human enjoyment is, how soon overflowed with tears,

how easily drained to the dregs in our quenchless thirst for infinity,

we shall not blame ourselves for making so much of the tea-cup. Mankind

has done worse. In the worship of Bacchus, we have sacrificed too

freely; and we have even transfigured the gory image of Mars. Why not

consecrate ourselves to the queen of the Camelias, and revel in the warm

stream of sympathy that flows from her altar? In the liquid amber within

the ivory-porcelain, the initiated may touch the sweet reticence of

Confucius, the piquancy of Laotse, and the ethereal aroma of Sakyamuni

himself.

Those who cannot feel the littleness of great things in themselves are

apt to overlook the greatness of little things in others. The average

Westerner, in his sleek complacency, will see in the tea ceremony but

another instance of the thousand and one oddities which constitute the

quaintness and childishness of the East to him. He was wont to regard

Japan as barbarous while she indulged in the gentle arts of peace: he

calls her civilised since she began to commit wholesale slaughter on

Manchurian battlefields. Much comment has been given lately to the Code

of the Samurai,--the Art of Death which makes our soldiers exult in

self-sacrifice; but scarcely any attention has been drawn to Teaism,

which represents so much of our Art of Life. Fain would we remain

barbarians, if our claim to civilisation were to be based on the

gruesome glory of war. Fain would we await the time when due respect

shall be paid to our art and ideals.

When will the West understand, or try to understand, the East? We

Asiatics are often appalled by the curious web of facts and fancies

which has been woven concerning us. We are pictured as living on the

perfume of the lotus, if not on mice and cockroaches. It is either

impotent fanaticism or else abject voluptuousness. Indian spirituality

has been derided as ignorance, Chinese sobriety as stupidity, Japanese

patriotism as the result of fatalism. It has been said that we are less

sensible to pain and wounds on account of the callousness of our nervous

organisation!

Why not amuse yourselves at our expense? Asia returns the compliment.

There would be further food for merriment if you were to know all

that we have imagined and written about you. All the glamour of the

perspective is there, all the unconscious homage of wonder, all the

silent resentment of the new and undefined. You have been loaded with

virtues too refined to be envied, and accused of crimes too

picturesque to be condemned. Our writers in the past--the wise men who

knew--informed us that you had bushy tails somewhere hidden in your

garments, and often dined off a fricassee of newborn babes! Nay, we had

something worse against you: we used to think you the most impracticable

people on the earth, for you were said to preach what you never

practiced.

Such misconceptions are fast vanishing amongst us. Commerce has forced

the European tongues on many an Eastern port. Asiatic youths are

flocking to Western colleges for the equipment of modern education.

Our insight does not penetrate your culture deeply, but at least we are

willing to learn. Some of my compatriots have adopted too much of

your customs and too much of your etiquette, in the delusion that the

acquisition of stiff collars and tall silk hats comprised the attainment

of your civilisation. Pathetic and deplorable as such affectations

are, they evince our willingness to approach the West on our knees.

Unfortunately the Western attitude is unfavourable to the understanding

of the East. The Christian missionary goes to impart, but not to

receive. Your information is based on the meagre translations of our

immense literature, if not on the unreliable anecdotes of passing

travellers. It is rarely that the chivalrous pen of a Lafcadio Hearn

or that of the author of "The Web of Indian Life" enlivens the Oriental

darkness with the torch of our own sentiments.

Perhaps I betray my own ignorance of the Tea Cult by being so outspoken.

Its very spirit of politeness exacts that you say what you are expected

to say, and no more. But I am not to be a polite Teaist. So much harm

has been done already by the mutual misunderstanding of the New World

and the Old, that one need not apologise for contributing his tithe

to the furtherance of a better understanding. The beginning of the

twentieth century would have been spared the spectacle of sanguinary

warfare if Russia had condescended to know Japan better. What dire

consequences to humanity lie in the contemptuous ignoring of Eastern

problems! European imperialism, which does not disdain to raise the

absurd cry of the Yellow Peril, fails to realise that Asia may also

awaken to the cruel sense of the White Disaster. You may laugh at us for

having "too much tea," but may we not suspect that you of the West have

"no tea" in your constitution?

Let us stop the continents from hurling epigrams at each other, and be

sadder if not wiser by the mutual gain of half a hemisphere. We have

developed along different lines, but there is no reason why one should

not supplement the other. You have gained expansion at the cost

of restlessness; we have created a harmony which is weak against

aggression. Will you believe it?--the East is better off in some

respects than the West!

Strangely enough humanity has so far met in the tea-cup. It is the only

Asiatic ceremonial which commands universal esteem. The white man has

scoffed at our religion and our morals, but has accepted the brown

beverage without hesitation. The afternoon tea is now an important

function in Western society. In the delicate clatter of trays and

saucers, in the soft rustle of feminine hospitality, in the common

catechism about cream and sugar, we know that the Worship of Tea is

established beyond question. The philosophic resignation of the guest

to the fate awaiting him in the dubious decoction proclaims that in this

single instance the Oriental spirit reigns supreme.

The earliest record of tea in European writing is said to be found in

the statement of an Arabian traveller, that after the year 879 the main

sources of revenue in Canton were the duties on salt and tea. Marco Polo

records the deposition of a Chinese minister of finance in 1285 for his

arbitrary augmentation of the tea-taxes. It was at the period of the

great discoveries that the European people began to know more about

the extreme Orient. At the end of the sixteenth century the Hollanders

brought the news that a pleasant drink was made in the East from the

leaves of a bush. The travellers Giovanni Batista Ramusio (1559), L.

Almeida (1576), Maffeno (1588), Tareira (1610), also mentioned tea. In

the last-named year ships of the Dutch East India Company brought the

first tea into Europe. It was known in France in 1636, and reached

Russia in 1638. England welcomed it in 1650 and spoke of it as "That

excellent and by all physicians approved China drink, called by the

Chineans Tcha, and by other nations Tay, alias Tee."

Like all good things of the world, the propaganda of Tea met with

opposition. Heretics like Henry Saville (1678) denounced drinking it as

a filthy custom. Jonas Hanway (Essay on Tea, 1756) said that men seemed

to lose their stature and comeliness, women their beauty through the

use of tea. Its cost at the start (about fifteen or sixteen shillings

a pound) forbade popular consumption, and made it "regalia for high

treatments and entertainments, presents being made thereof to princes

and grandees." Yet in spite of such drawbacks tea-drinking spread with

marvelous rapidity. The coffee-houses of London in the early half of the

eighteenth century became, in fact, tea-houses, the resort of wits like

Addison and Steele, who beguiled themselves over their "dish of tea."

The beverage soon became a necessity of life--a taxable matter. We are

reminded in this connection what an important part it plays in modern

history. Colonial America resigned herself to oppression until human

endurance gave way before the heavy duties laid on Tea. American

independence dates from the throwing of tea-chests into Boston harbour.

There is a subtle charm in the taste of tea which makes it irresistible

and capable of idealisation. Western humourists were not slow to mingle

the fragrance of their thought with its aroma. It has not the arrogance

of wine, the self-consciousness of coffee, nor the simpering innocence

of cocoa. Already in 1711, says the Spectator: "I would therefore in a

particular manner recommend these my speculations to all well-regulated

families that set apart an hour every morning for tea, bread and butter;

and would earnestly advise them for their good to order this paper to

be punctually served up and to be looked upon as a part of the

tea-equipage." Samuel Johnson draws his own portrait as "a hardened and

shameless tea drinker, who for twenty years diluted his meals with only

the infusion of the fascinating plant; who with tea amused the evening,

with tea solaced the midnight, and with tea welcomed the morning."

Charles Lamb, a professed devotee, sounded the true note of Teaism when

he wrote that the greatest pleasure he knew was to do a good action by

stealth, and to have it found out by accident. For Teaism is the art of

concealing beauty that you may discover it, of suggesting what you dare

not reveal. It is the noble secret of laughing at yourself, calmly yet

thoroughly, and is thus humour itself,--the smile of philosophy. All

genuine humourists may in this sense be called tea-philosophers,

Thackeray, for instance, and of course, Shakespeare. The poets of the

Decadence (when was not the world in decadence?), in their protests

against materialism, have, to a certain extent, also opened the way to

Teaism. Perhaps nowadays it is our demure contemplation of the Imperfect

that the West and the East can meet in mutual consolation.

The Taoists relate that at the great beginning of the No-Beginning,

Spirit and Matter met in mortal combat. At last the Yellow Emperor, the

Sun of Heaven, triumphed over Shuhyung, the demon of darkness and earth.

The Titan, in his death agony, struck his head against the solar vault

and shivered the blue dome of jade into fragments. The stars lost their

nests, the moon wandered aimlessly among the wild chasms of the night.

In despair the Yellow Emperor sought far and wide for the repairer of

the Heavens. He had not to search in vain. Out of the Eastern sea rose a

queen, the divine Niuka, horn-crowned and dragon-tailed, resplendent

in her armor of fire. She welded the five-coloured rainbow in her magic

cauldron and rebuilt the Chinese sky. But it is told that Niuka forgot

to fill two tiny crevices in the blue firmament. Thus began the dualism

of love--two souls rolling through space and never at rest until they

join together to complete the universe. Everyone has to build anew his

sky of hope and peace.

The heaven of modern humanity is indeed shattered in the Cyclopean

struggle for wealth and power. The world is groping in the shadow of

egotism and vulgarity. Knowledge is bought through a bad conscience,

benevolence practiced for the sake of utility. The East and the West,

like two dragons tossed in a sea of ferment, in vain strive to

regain the jewel of life. We need a Niuka again to repair the grand

devastation; we await the great Avatar. Meanwhile, let us have a sip of

tea. The afternoon glow is brightening the bamboos, the fountains are

bubbling with delight, the soughing of the pines is heard in our kettle.

Let us dream of evanescence, and linger in the beautiful foolishness of

things.

The Book of Tea · 第 4 / 10 题